Chip, thanks for taking the time to make your vids. I've watched your stuff before and you seem to very willing to offer your views and your experience w/o trying to sound like an expert. As many older gardeners and small farmers disappear much of the basic knowledge they have goes away too. I had to do the same thing using a Roth Garden King. Plowed up a garden patch that had apparently been a garden before, the ground was fun to work. I widened it a further 6 feet and busted my gussets fighting that plow breaking sod! Knowing how to set that draft would've helped greatly! Now I know. Besides, if it wasnt fun to do, I would just get a rototiller and be done with it. Who cares what the neighbors think!
Thank you Mark, sod is going to be harder no matter what you do. I know with mine that I should have the tires loaded and some more weight on the tractor for better traction. I bet you would be inspired by the channel The Market Garden Farmer. They farm a large property with these little tractors using them to cultivate row crops. It's amazing the implements they have made up to go behind these things. Their fields have zero weeds in them!
I've been on a large farm pretty much all my 55 years with the exception of some college and military service. We still clean up and paint our large turning plows after each season. Like you said, they work best when their kept bright.
Chip; When you finish for the season with the turning plow wash and remove the dirt from the moldboard, sand if necessary to remove any rust and then paint the plow (wing). Next year it will work much smoother on the first pass. It prevents the dirt from sticking to the metal.
When you open up Facebook look at the top for a magnifying glass and the word search. Click on it and you should be able to type in the name of the group there to search for the group. The name of the group is Walk Behind Garden Tractors. It is a closed group so once you find it you will have to click a button on their site to request to join the group. It may take a little bit for one of the guys that monitors the group to accept your join request, but they will. It helps if you have pictures on your Facebook page. It reassures them that you are legitimate and not some kid fooling around.
Your plowing in ground that's too wet to plow. That's why dirt is sticking onto the moldboard, which will make it hard to throw the dirt causing drag which will hang up the tractor.
I don't believe you can set THAT plow, or most other such plows for the opening furrow. Ive always done the opening furrow twice to get it down to where it should be IF the first pass didn't do it.As to having to lift the handles due to the plow nosing in, If you turn that screw that attaches the plow shank to the plow beam , and im guessing clockwise, a 1/2 doz turns youll find that it dosnt do that.ALSO, The rolling cutter should be just that close to the moldboard as it is, and about 1in lower.Ive farmed since 68 and am 70, so I know what im talking about. I currently have a 2 wheel Simplicity garden tractor, that I rigged a Brinley plow to, and currently have a David Bradly garden harrow chained up to it. Will rig up a disc for it sooner or later.
IF you cant afford new tires, at least put fluid in the tires you have and put tire chains on the tires to get better traction. The tractor is willing but it cant get a grip. Not the tractors fault, its the tires.
William Christopher This tractor has brand new tires on it. I restored the tractor and put the tires on last winter. It's wasn't helping that I was cutting through sod in compacted ground in my front yard. It does far better in my parent's well established garden.
I agree that it would be much better if I did load the tires, but I didn't want to deal with leaks causing my rims to start rusting on a freshly restored tractor. I figured that I would see how it went dry first.
U say you've got new tires on it. I got new tires on mine, and the lugs on mine seem to have sharper edges than what I could see on yours. GIVIN THAT THO, you say you were afraid to load the tires for fear of leaks. Please don't tell me you paid $150 for tires and didn't get new tubes with them. Myself, ida rather got new tubes and loaded them with water if nothing else, as you wouldn't be using it in the winter, and one hot day in spring, setting out would thaw the ice inside all that rubber. THEn if I couldn't afford new tires ida put old tires over the new tubes and added chains if it still needed it.
You need to scrape that wet dirt off the moldboard and share, then brush it.NEVER just turn the tractor off. Shut off the fuel at the bowl and let it run empty on low. That does 2 things. It drains the carb so that no schallac builds up in the carb making it hard or impossible to start later on, AND, letting it idle till it runs out of gas lets the engine cool down before dying, rather than having it run and then immediately shutting it off. That cools the engine too fast, and it can warp the head.Put a teaspoon of chainsaw oil in the tank, and ONLY used REAL gas of the highest price. Makes for easy starts.
That's great advice and I usually try to do those things. I was getting in a hurry dealing with the camera and I did shut it off rather quickly. The engine that's on it right now has the gas tank under the carb so there is no fuel shut off. The original engine is as you described though and I used to turn off the gas and let it idle until it quit. I'm in the process of rebuilding it and hope to get it back on the tractor soon.
You're fine. I try keep in mind how easy it is to have misunderstandings when writing back and forth with text. So much is lost in translation by not being able to hear the other person's tone of voice. The tractor being kind of rare is part of why I'm hesitant to load the tires. My Dad has a Ford 860 with loaded tires and with age they have started to seep and one of the rims is now rusted out around the valve stem. I can't imagine where I would ever find a replacement rim for this Bready if one went bad. I figured that I would see how it does dry first and that I could always add fluid later. The main thing I wanted to use the tractor for was cultivating weeds in the garden and it has no trouble at all pulling the disc or cultivator. Another thing I'm looking forward to using on it is the sickle mower. I was thinking about what you said about loading the tires with water and it sounds to me like you might be in a slightly warmer climate. Here in Ohio it's not uncommon for the temp to dip down to 0F -15C at night and have a high of 10F or -10C during the day for the coldest months of the winter. As cold as it gets I would probably want to add antifreeze to the water. I think my father said that the tires on his tractor has calcium chloride in them. I've heard that calcium is pretty corrosive. Thank you so much for not only taking the time to watch my video, but also taking the time to talk back and forth on here as well. The best part of having videos here on TH-cam is getting to have conversations with folks from all over.
U say it gets down to 10 oe _10. How much gardening do you do in temps like that?? I garden when the temps are in the 50s/60s. IF you do likewise, then the water would be thawed out if it was left in the sun for a day.You can also coat the inside of the wheels with a clear coat hardener before putting the tub and tire on.How much air pressure do you run in your tires. on a real tractor its around 22lbs, depending on tire sizes and widths. Ive ran around 22/25lbs on mine for 45yrs. Im in NE Okla.
Im still worried about what damage the initial freezing solid is going to do. The rims are made up of two halves that are bolted together with eight bolts. Freezing water is powerful stuff. What are the odds of the ice forcing my rims to spread apart or tearing cords in the tire? Are you going to replace either of them for me if it happens? The tires were pretty expensive and good luck finding a replacement rim. I do have a blade for it so I was planning on using it to push a little snow during the winter months.
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A true farmer. Keeps adjusting the implement until it performs perfectly for the soil conditions.
Have one on garden tractor could never figure out how to get it to cut in right you did a good job explaining and showing how .thanks bud.
I'm glad it was helpful
Chip, thanks for taking the time to make your vids. I've watched your stuff before and you seem to very willing to offer your views and your experience w/o trying to sound like an expert. As many older gardeners and small farmers disappear much of the basic knowledge they have goes away too. I had to do the same thing using a Roth Garden King. Plowed up a garden patch that had apparently been a garden before, the ground was fun to work. I widened it a further 6 feet and busted my gussets fighting that plow breaking sod! Knowing how to set that draft would've helped greatly! Now I know. Besides, if it wasnt fun to do, I would just get a rototiller and be done with it. Who cares what the neighbors think!
Thank you Mark, sod is going to be harder no matter what you do. I know with mine that I should have the tires loaded and some more weight on the tractor for better traction. I bet you would be inspired by the channel The Market Garden Farmer. They farm a large property with these little tractors using them to cultivate row crops. It's amazing the implements they have made up to go behind these things. Their fields have zero weeds in them!
I've been on a large farm pretty much all my 55 years with the exception of some college and military service. We still clean up and paint our large turning plows after each season. Like you said, they work best when their kept bright.
finally a useful plowing video
Chip; When you finish for the season with the turning plow wash and remove the dirt from the moldboard, sand if necessary to remove any rust and then paint the plow (wing). Next year it will work much smoother on the first pass. It prevents the dirt from sticking to the metal.
That's great advice! They work so much nicer when they are glossy smooth.
Like you said. I subscribe your channel!
That piece sticking out at the back and bottom you keep raising and lowering is called the land side. Some call it the land slide.
That THING as you call it is the tip of the share. The moldboard is what its fastened to and what throws the furrow.
Whats the make of that tractor, and how big is that garden. looks like 20ft sq. Mines 40 X 100
20 ft sq. is about right. The tractor is a Bready.
Seeing it from the right side, you need to take the bolt counter clockwise.
Im on facebook, but am new to it. How do I find this place, AND thanks for the info.
When you open up Facebook look at the top for a magnifying glass and the word search. Click on it and you should be able to type in the name of the group there to search for the group. The name of the group is Walk Behind Garden Tractors. It is a closed group so once you find it you will have to click a button on their site to request to join the group. It may take a little bit for one of the guys that monitors the group to accept your join request, but they will. It helps if you have pictures on your Facebook page. It reassures them that you are legitimate and not some kid fooling around.
Your plowing in ground that's too wet to plow. That's why dirt is sticking onto the moldboard, which will make it hard to throw the dirt causing drag which will hang up the tractor.
You're right, back when I made this video it seemed like it was raining every other day. It seemed like the ground was never going to dry out.
I don't believe you can set THAT plow, or most other such plows for the opening furrow. Ive always done the opening furrow twice to get it down to where it should be IF the first pass didn't do it.As to having to lift the handles due to the plow nosing in, If you turn that screw that attaches the plow shank to the plow beam , and im guessing clockwise, a 1/2 doz turns youll find that it dosnt do that.ALSO, The rolling cutter should be just that close to the moldboard as it is, and about 1in lower.Ive farmed since 68 and am 70, so I know what im talking about. I currently have a 2 wheel Simplicity garden tractor, that I rigged a Brinley plow to, and currently have a David Bradly garden harrow chained up to it. Will rig up a disc for it sooner or later.
That rolling cutter used to be called a cutting coulter or just a coulter.
The ground being wet aint helping your wore out tires either.
IF you cant afford new tires, at least put fluid in the tires you have and put tire chains on the tires to get better traction. The tractor is willing but it cant get a grip. Not the tractors fault, its the tires.
William Christopher This tractor has brand new tires on it. I restored the tractor and put the tires on last winter. It's wasn't helping that I was cutting through sod in compacted ground in my front yard. It does far better in my parent's well established garden.
I agree that it would be much better if I did load the tires, but I didn't want to deal with leaks causing my rims to start rusting on a freshly restored tractor. I figured that I would see how it went dry first.
U say you've got new tires on it. I got new tires on mine, and the lugs on mine seem to have sharper edges than what I could see on yours. GIVIN THAT THO, you say you were afraid to load the tires for fear of leaks. Please don't tell me you paid $150 for tires and didn't get new tubes with them. Myself, ida rather got new tubes and loaded them with water if nothing else, as you wouldn't be using it in the winter, and one hot day in spring, setting out would thaw the ice inside all that rubber. THEn if I couldn't afford new tires ida put old tires over the new tubes and added chains if it still needed it.
You need to scrape that wet dirt off the moldboard and share, then brush it.NEVER just turn the tractor off. Shut off the fuel at the bowl and let it run empty on low. That does 2 things. It drains the carb so that no schallac builds up in the carb making it hard or impossible to start later on, AND, letting it idle till it runs out of gas lets the engine cool down before dying, rather than having it run and then immediately shutting it off. That cools the engine too fast, and it can warp the head.Put a teaspoon of chainsaw oil in the tank, and ONLY used REAL gas of the highest price. Makes for easy starts.
That's great advice and I usually try to do those things. I was getting in a hurry dealing with the camera and I did shut it off rather quickly. The engine that's on it right now has the gas tank under the carb so there is no fuel shut off. The original engine is as you described though and I used to turn off the gas and let it idle until it quit. I'm in the process of rebuilding it and hope to get it back on the tractor soon.
Sounds good. A Bready is a kinda rare bird. Sorry if I sounded harsh or overbearing.
You're fine. I try keep in mind how easy it is to have misunderstandings when writing back and forth with text. So much is lost in translation by not being able to hear the other person's tone of voice. The tractor being kind of rare is part of why I'm hesitant to load the tires. My Dad has a Ford 860 with loaded tires and with age they have started to seep and one of the rims is now rusted out around the valve stem. I can't imagine where I would ever find a replacement rim for this Bready if one went bad. I figured that I would see how it does dry first and that I could always add fluid later. The main thing I wanted to use the tractor for was cultivating weeds in the garden and it has no trouble at all pulling the disc or cultivator. Another thing I'm looking forward to using on it is the sickle mower. I was thinking about what you said about loading the tires with water and it sounds to me like you might be in a slightly warmer climate. Here in Ohio it's not uncommon for the temp to dip down to 0F -15C at night and have a high of 10F or -10C during the day for the coldest months of the winter. As cold as it gets I would probably want to add antifreeze to the water. I think my father said that the tires on his tractor has calcium chloride in them. I've heard that calcium is pretty corrosive. Thank you so much for not only taking the time to watch my video, but also taking the time to talk back and forth on here as well. The best part of having videos here on TH-cam is getting to have conversations with folks from all over.
U say it gets down to 10 oe _10. How much gardening do you do in temps like that?? I garden when the temps are in the 50s/60s. IF you do likewise, then the water would be thawed out if it was left in the sun for a day.You can also coat the inside of the wheels with a clear coat hardener before putting the tub and tire on.How much air pressure do you run in your tires. on a real tractor its around 22lbs, depending on tire sizes and widths. Ive ran around 22/25lbs on mine for 45yrs. Im in NE Okla.
Im still worried about what damage the initial freezing solid is going to do. The rims are made up of two halves that are bolted together with eight bolts. Freezing water is powerful stuff. What are the odds of the ice forcing my rims to spread apart or tearing cords in the tire? Are you going to replace either of them for me if it happens? The tires were pretty expensive and good luck finding a replacement rim. I do have a blade for it so I was planning on using it to push a little snow during the winter months.