I dont know if u will see this but my 1986 vette does thia i can turn it on and run it for how ever long and then when i go into the store or whatever it may be i will come out and try to start my car but there is no crank lights come on the dash and everything i will wait about 35 minutes to hour and will start right up no problem temp read that it is fine thru out the whole process
sounds like a strange case for it to not crank... typically indicates a battery with a dead cell, however givin the minimal amount of specifics in details hard to really nail it down to any one thing and i dont wanna tell you to just start throwing money at it till the problem is resolved as there is a list of things that it *could* be...
Thanks for the great video. Quick question - I'm kinda new at this so please bear with me; I recently bought an 86 (with the manual transmission and cast iron heads). I noticed that the fan comes on very early (~185 F). I drive the car on very open roads and don't need the fan coming on so early. Looking through the service history, I saw that the car had a hypertech performance chip installed. I am assuming this is the PROM, which (from basic internet research) doesn't seem to do much apart from turn on the fan early. Is it now possible to simply find the original PROM for this car and put it in? If I were do to his, would it simply return the car to normal operation? Or it's not quite so simple? Many thanks!
honestly... in my opinion i would leave the chip as is, as its not hurting anything. i would however suggest taking the car out and getting it up to temp (when the fan turns on), and then come to a full stop, pull over on the shoulder, or into a parking lot, just off the road, leave the car running and sit still for a few minutes and pay attention to how fast the engine temp rises... these cars are bottom feeders and the fact that the fan comes on "early" is just the fact that it comes on "earlier than expected" to someone unfamiliar with how the car works. the term "bottom feeder" : you will notice there is no direct opening, like a grill in front of the radiator(s), instead there is an air damn under the nose cone that is there to collect air and direct it up into the trans cooler which has a fan in front of it that forces the air through to the a/c radiator and coolant radiator, where at the back of the coolant radiator there is another fan to suck the air through into the engine compartment, which is the fan you see with the shroud around it when you pop the hood. that being said, if you are not making forward motion to allow the car to collect new air through the radiators, the fan needs to turn on to do the majority of work in the cooling of the radiators to keep from overheating. in short, what seems "early" is just perception, hope that helps and congrats on the car, they are fun! they are definitely a different animal though.
@@jalopyjones6460 Thanks for the quick response. I see what you mean. I've put on about 1500 miles since I bought it. Where I drive, there is a lot of open roads. The fan consistently comes on at 180 ish. I have tried this (pulled over and just waited to see what would happen with the fan on at idle. It crept up to about 210 and stayed there. When I disconnected the relay and went for a drive (just to see what the temperature would get up to, I noticed that it never went above ~205 on the roads I am driving. The only reason it was really worrying me is because the fan is staying on for long periods of driving (so I am getting a bit worried that its motor will blow out). So I was thinking to just get the original PROM in and to see how it goes.
the normal temp for the fan to turn on is 230ish, and it then drops the temp for me down to around 210ish at idle sitting still. for your fan to turn on at 180, before it has even reached operating temp, sounds to me like a number of different things that could potentially be wrong.
@@jalopyjones6460 awesome - that's exactly what I am trying to achieve in mine. One of the features of the Hypertech PROM was to turn the fan on at 180 ish. I have a new coolant temperature sensor and radiator fan switch along with the correct thermostat, clean radiator and good fluid. I suspect the chip is the culprit (as per their website).
hopefully you realize that there are 3 different coolant temp sensors on the block... if not, be sure that it was the one located in front of cylinder 8 (near the back of the block on the passenger side) as that is the one that controls the radiator fan relay. other than that, i would say that hypertech probably has a kit you can get for setting the variables on that paticular eeprom that you have. but once again, i'm not going to dive into all of that as you have a fully functioning vehicle, and if you mess up, its a lawn ornament.
how did the tuning go for you> contemplating getting one myself. But feel may need whole new computer, does it come with the piece u removed or would it be changed over, that is my dilemma.
Tuning went well, I only had to omit the EGR due to the system being removed and an adjustment to the O2 sensors because of the higher flow through the larger than stock headers. The kit that I purchased came with 2 EPROM chips and everything needed except a laptop ( which is needed, if not a desktop pc ) Still need to edit the video and am seriously contemplating not publishing that at all, due to the fact that I would feel horrible if someone who didn't know what they were doing followed along and had a running vehicle when they started and afterwards had a lawn ornament... Hope yours goes smooth.
@@jalopyjones6460 Now that is just unfair!! All joking aside I have a 85 and want to do the EGR delete also. I bought a Motorvation stage 2 because I put a good exhaust and intake on. It is supposed to be here today. Mine is a Z51 so I hope there isn't anything to go wrong there. I'll let everyone know how it goes, UNLIKE SOME PEOPLE!!! haha
UPDATE: OK, everything went well, the exhaust is louder and throatier. Definitely feel more horsepower. Idle's around 600 RPM (was 500-550), sounds awesome. Coolant temp is cooler it's around 180 degrees parked, I think it's a 195 thermostat. I only drive it for a little while, going to really see what it does today. So far, yes, it's a good chip.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 sorry I can't share ALL my secrets, just posted this really because all the forums they give a rather vague description as to where it's located and no information as to how difficult it would be to gain access to it... glad everything went well for you!
that's a rather vague question, it could be any number of things ranging from an engine sensor to a transmission issue, in order to even attempt to answer it, first start with the initial problem, what is causing the car to run rough?
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks man, I got an 88 sane issue
I dont know if u will see this but my 1986 vette does thia i can turn it on and run it for how ever long and then when i go into the store or whatever it may be i will come out and try to start my car but there is no crank lights come on the dash and everything i will wait about 35 minutes to hour and will start right up no problem temp read that it is fine thru out the whole process
sounds like a strange case for it to not crank... typically indicates a battery with a dead cell, however givin the minimal amount of specifics in details hard to really nail it down to any one thing and i dont wanna tell you to just start throwing money at it till the problem is resolved as there is a list of things that it *could* be...
Thanks dude
Thanks for the great video. Quick question - I'm kinda new at this so please bear with me; I recently bought an 86 (with the manual transmission and cast iron heads). I noticed that the fan comes on very early (~185 F). I drive the car on very open roads and don't need the fan coming on so early. Looking through the service history, I saw that the car had a hypertech performance chip installed. I am assuming this is the PROM, which (from basic internet research) doesn't seem to do much apart from turn on the fan early. Is it now possible to simply find the original PROM for this car and put it in? If I were do to his, would it simply return the car to normal operation? Or it's not quite so simple? Many thanks!
honestly... in my opinion i would leave the chip as is, as its not hurting anything. i would however suggest taking the car out and getting it up to temp (when the fan turns on), and then come to a full stop, pull over on the shoulder, or into a parking lot, just off the road, leave the car running and sit still for a few minutes and pay attention to how fast the engine temp rises... these cars are bottom feeders and the fact that the fan comes on "early" is just the fact that it comes on "earlier than expected" to someone unfamiliar with how the car works. the term "bottom feeder" : you will notice there is no direct opening, like a grill in front of the radiator(s), instead there is an air damn under the nose cone that is there to collect air and direct it up into the trans cooler which has a fan in front of it that forces the air through to the a/c radiator and coolant radiator, where at the back of the coolant radiator there is another fan to suck the air through into the engine compartment, which is the fan you see with the shroud around it when you pop the hood. that being said, if you are not making forward motion to allow the car to collect new air through the radiators, the fan needs to turn on to do the majority of work in the cooling of the radiators to keep from overheating. in short, what seems "early" is just perception, hope that helps and congrats on the car, they are fun! they are definitely a different animal though.
@@jalopyjones6460 Thanks for the quick response. I see what you mean. I've put on about 1500 miles since I bought it. Where I drive, there is a lot of open roads. The fan consistently comes on at 180 ish. I have tried this (pulled over and just waited to see what would happen with the fan on at idle. It crept up to about 210 and stayed there. When I disconnected the relay and went for a drive (just to see what the temperature would get up to, I noticed that it never went above ~205 on the roads I am driving. The only reason it was really worrying me is because the fan is staying on for long periods of driving (so I am getting a bit worried that its motor will blow out). So I was thinking to just get the original PROM in and to see how it goes.
the normal temp for the fan to turn on is 230ish, and it then drops the temp for me down to around 210ish at idle sitting still. for your fan to turn on at 180, before it has even reached operating temp, sounds to me like a number of different things that could potentially be wrong.
@@jalopyjones6460 awesome - that's exactly what I am trying to achieve in mine. One of the features of the Hypertech PROM was to turn the fan on at 180 ish. I have a new coolant temperature sensor and radiator fan switch along with the correct thermostat, clean radiator and good fluid. I suspect the chip is the culprit (as per their website).
hopefully you realize that there are 3 different coolant temp sensors on the block... if not, be sure that it was the one located in front of cylinder 8 (near the back of the block on the passenger side) as that is the one that controls the radiator fan relay. other than that, i would say that hypertech probably has a kit you can get for setting the variables on that paticular eeprom that you have. but once again, i'm not going to dive into all of that as you have a fully functioning vehicle, and if you mess up, its a lawn ornament.
how did the tuning go for you> contemplating getting one myself. But feel may need whole new computer, does it come with the piece u removed or would it be changed over, that is my dilemma.
Tuning went well, I only had to omit the EGR due to the system being removed and an adjustment to the O2 sensors because of the higher flow through the larger than stock headers. The kit that I purchased came with 2 EPROM chips and everything needed except a laptop ( which is needed, if not a desktop pc ) Still need to edit the video and am seriously contemplating not publishing that at all, due to the fact that I would feel horrible if someone who didn't know what they were doing followed along and had a running vehicle when they started and afterwards had a lawn ornament... Hope yours goes smooth.
@@jalopyjones6460 Now that is just unfair!! All joking aside I have a 85 and want to do the EGR delete also. I bought a Motorvation stage 2 because I put a good exhaust and intake on. It is supposed to be here today. Mine is a Z51 so I hope there isn't anything to go wrong there. I'll let everyone know how it goes, UNLIKE SOME PEOPLE!!! haha
UPDATE: OK, everything went well, the exhaust is louder and throatier. Definitely feel more horsepower. Idle's around 600 RPM (was 500-550), sounds awesome. Coolant temp is cooler it's around 180 degrees parked, I think it's a 195 thermostat. I only drive it for a little while, going to really see what it does today. So far, yes, it's a good chip.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 sorry I can't share ALL my secrets, just posted this really because all the forums they give a rather vague description as to where it's located and no information as to how difficult it would be to gain access to it... glad everything went well for you!
what causes the shift light to come on when the car runs rough
that's a rather vague question, it could be any number of things ranging from an engine sensor to a transmission issue, in order to even attempt to answer it, first start with the initial problem, what is causing the car to run rough?