Thanks for the memory! I have NEVER forgotten the sound of a worn-out 14T baler as I worked the wagon (and haymow!) as a young man behind one powered by an equally tired '69 Case 530 diesel for several years in the '80s. He STILL HAS the Case...
Been baling for 20 years with my 14T and it keeps on going. I don't run mine wide open like that though, too hard on the machine. The only repair I've had to do is get a new tire :) My neighbor ran his wide open like that and he was constantly having to do repairs.
Actually I think the problem you were having is that that one is from back in the day when they expected you to have a 1000 RPM PTO I know because my BMC tractor has a 1000 RPM PTO
Last summer the small pin sheared on the drive link that advances the needles when the knotter tripped. The needles happened to be up in the knotter when it happened and both of them were snapped off. Geeze! I don't need to make any hay this year thankfully. But one of these days I need to start shopping for a pair of needles.
W used a john deere B. In heavy hay you would have to quickly pull the clutch back get it out of 1st gear and into neutral . The problem was reverse was opposite on the notches and would go into reverse. So get it out of reverse back to neutral jam the clutch back in and hope you did it fast enough not to jam the bailer. Never did jam the bailer at 14 years old not too bad for a kid ha ha .
You don't know what you're doing. That is not a significant copacity baler. I ran one in 1983 with a Mt at 21 HP and you have a 2520 at 61 HP (PTO for both). That machine should run very easy.
Power??? Not sure what you mean Scott? It does run easy. You are right though, the 2520 is more than enough machine, but it's also the only one I have w power steering and live power - so why not use it? If you wonder why I red line the tractor it's the only way the PTO can get enough speed to get the needed 57-60 strokes per minute. Years ago the knotter missed roughly every 20-25 bales so I had a guy come out that worked on 14T's for many years and within 5 minutes he spotted I was running it too slow. He then educated me and in this case told me I would need to up the engine speed. I questioned the red lining, but he told me to not worry.....that was 15 years ago.
Thanks for the memory! I have NEVER forgotten the sound of a worn-out 14T baler as I worked the wagon (and haymow!) as a young man behind one powered by an equally tired '69 Case 530 diesel for several years in the '80s. He STILL HAS the Case...
when i was a kid we made almost 250 acres of hay with one of these and it would rarely miss a knot. they make a nice solid bale too.
I have a 14t as well. Worked like a top until this year. The timing went out and broke both needles. So time for some repair!!
had a 14T. sold it. now, looking to buy another. Great old baler!
I have one that has been sitting for about 40 years, I may try and figure out if it will work again.
I spent a few summers following one of those with a pickup.
brings back memories...
Been baling for 20 years with my 14T and it keeps on going. I don't run mine wide open like that though, too hard on the machine. The only repair I've had to do is get a new tire :)
My neighbor ran his wide open like that and he was constantly having to do repairs.
👍👍👍👏👌🥂🙋🙋
I put in a lot of hours working with one of those old balers
i just bought one it will be my second after i feel asleep on the tractor and smashed my old 14t into a tree LOL
60 stroks a minute
Actually I think the problem you were having is that that one is from back in the day when they expected you to have a 1000 RPM PTO I know because my BMC tractor has a 1000 RPM PTO
No
On a 14t when your twine is about out how do you put a new roll on ??
Put a new spool in the bin in the back and tie the ends together. The old twine will pull the new one in.
Just going width of cutter or did you windrow it?
Windrowed.
Put a hayrack back their and get off the tractor and stack them every so often.
J d balers are meant to be pushed! That's when they bale the best,being stuffed!
Last summer the small pin sheared on the drive link that advances the needles when the knotter tripped. The needles happened to be up in the knotter when it happened and both of them were snapped off. Geeze! I don't need to make any hay this year thankfully. But one of these days I need to start shopping for a pair of needles.
Years ago,ours did the same thing.the dealer brazed them and they stayed working.parts were hard to get in a timely manner,back then.
@@genechronister7085 Agreed. It's funny you bring that up because IF I find a pair of needles I will probably do the same thing
E bay or steiner equipment
What’s the minimum hp you need to run one of these?
We used to run one behind a 77 Oliver, which is around 35hp
W used a john deere B. In heavy hay you would have to quickly pull the clutch back get it out of 1st gear and into neutral . The problem was reverse was opposite on the notches and would go into reverse. So get it out of reverse back to neutral jam the clutch back in and hope you did it fast enough not to jam the bailer. Never did jam the bailer at 14 years old not too bad for a kid ha ha .
You don't know what you're doing. That is not a significant copacity baler. I ran one in 1983 with a Mt at 21 HP and you have a 2520 at 61 HP (PTO for both). That machine should run very easy.
Power??? Not sure what you mean Scott? It does run easy. You are right though, the 2520 is more than enough machine, but it's also the only one I have w power steering and live power - so why not use it? If you wonder why I red line the tractor it's the only way the PTO can get enough speed to get the needed 57-60 strokes per minute. Years ago the knotter missed roughly every 20-25 bales so I had a guy come out that worked on 14T's for many years and within 5 minutes he spotted I was running it too slow. He then educated me and in this case told me I would need to up the engine speed. I questioned the red lining, but he told me to not worry.....that was 15 years ago.
I run a NH66 with a John Deere 40T. th-cam.com/video/rTCRkOHulVY/w-d-xo.html