Finally, you can add Trace Elements to your BRS 2 Part dosing! We have the kits and instructions right here! ➡ Bulk BRS/Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling : brs.li/BRS_BallingHybrid_Bulk ➡ Just the Trace Elements : brs.li/BRS_TropicMarin_BallingTrace ➡ All BRS Pharma Additives : brs.li/BRS_BulkPharma_Additives
The lack of trace elements is what was holding me back from switching to your pharma grade 2 part. Really happy to see this option available. I already purchased some to make the switch. Thanks BRS!
I’m just starting this method. I was getting tired of playing mad scientist. I was also getting worried that I may be doing more harm than good. I currently use Tropic Marin pro salt and BRS 2 part. Thank you BRS and Tropic Marin for giving us this information and these products to use to be successful.
Thanks for the info, have been waiting for this one! My one question would be, does part C account for magnesium or am I going to be dosing 4 parts for my 2 part? Thanks!
You'll want to dose magnesium separately. Most of us around the BRS office dose magnesium less frequently and by hand. The magnesium in the Part C is only enough to account for the imbalance that occurs from the sodium chloride byproduct of two part dosing.
In previous BRS video (brs/wwc system ep13), the recommendation was 7.5 scoops of tropic marin part C to 1 gallon of BRS 2 parts, (two parts is the same concentration as that was mentioned in this video), What changed? is recommendation of only 4 scoops of part C due to tropic marin K and A additions? Thanks.
I don't understand the dosing is this along with testing I only dose soda ash and I use a soda lime reactor and use tropic Marin reef Pro salt shifted water changes to every week adding trace element how do you know if you're not adding too much
Me too, I’m currently running all for reef on my 90g tank and I’m very happy. Everything looks great and I only need one dosing head. But better is better🤔
Tropic Marin published the All-for-Reef receipe online. Ingredients are their own products: of which Calcium supplementation is not soda ash and includes A & K (according to this video their Bio-Calcium is sodium bicarbonate based). IIRC, All-for-reef is supposed to be based on Calcium Formate (instead of sdoium carbonate/bicarbonate), which contains no sodium, therefore no Part C is needed to balance sodium concentrations. Only A & K are needed to balance out "consumption" by corals/organisms.
@@MiddleAgedMike I have a big bottle I have yet to start! Do you still use this? I was thinking of switching to this versus just there regular soda ash, calcium and mg just to add in the trace elements but this seems confusing to me! lol. Did you have any problems with alf? I read nothing but good reviews when I bought is but now reading a lot about alk swings and hard to get dialed in and I have to many new corals coming in so dont want to risk changing things but at the same time I want to add some trace element! How do you keep ph up?
This seems very complicated! I use ur soda ash, and calcium chloride and pharma mag mix. I am just looking to keep using that and add trace elements but this seems crazy difficult! I also have 3/4 full mixed jugs of all. Would i have to throw away and start over? How do I keep up my ph? I cant drill a hole! Would adding a small hob fuge help? is there and easier way to keep using what I have and add trace some kind of trace elements( if so what brand) a hob fuge or somehow convert my small 10 gallon sump into a fuge with baffles i have heard you speak of those and they are black and water can flow through! fuge. I also have nuvo 20 aio. I can make a small fuge with that! I already bought innovative marine fuge leds! Wow didint realize this would be so difficult to add! I don't get the salt and salinty build up either! Very confusing to an old lady reefer! lol
Question: Starting to dose this method (newly cycled tank), BRS 2 part + Tropic Marin. I will be doing 10% weekly water changes, do I add the two part to the new water to match the tanks parameters?
Some would say is not that necessary since it's only 10%, but depending on the size of your tank and how much higher you keep your parameters, it can def be something you would want to do. The more important one to focus on is Alkalinity. You want to make sure and use bicarbonate for this and any adjustment. Mix your salt at the proper temp 72-75f (less chance of precip) & to the proper salinity, then test again hours later before adding your pre mixed liquid bicarb. Eve/Night & next morning is best practice. Salt dilutes & mixes fastest, but the rest can take more time to fully dissolve & mix properly. Its roughly 30 ml of brs liquid bicarb for a 1dkh increase in every 20 gal of sw. Hopefully your sw bin has good circulation. I use a 20g brute w a large powerhead on bottom & my pump/ hose at the bottom with the hose coming out the top, neatly wound remainder of hose with the hose end then going back in and secured , shooting into the top of the stored sw along with a small pump near the top. ..where u can slowly add your salt and then the bicarb into flow. The 2 pumps circulate around and the pump/hose ensures the water us mixed vertically, bottom to top as well, while keeping the hose clean & free of stagnant water. As the cheaper ac pumps you want to get for these applications are ON if plugged in, I suggest using a key fob remote outlet switch for turning them off and on at the push of a button. Allowing the actually plug/outlet to be safely out of you & waters reach.
Is there any difference if I were to dose part C by hand vs a dosing pump? And frequency would probably be weekly spaced evenly from my weekly water change schedule. Any thoughts?
So with this "Tropic Marin Hybrid" method, I would need a 4 head dosing pump. Alk w/trace A- , Cal w/trace k+, Tropic Marin part C, and 1x Mag. I can see this method is good for people with low PH issue but if you don't have an issue with PH , the All for Reef DIY is better in my opinion. If cost is the issue, the Tropic Marin Hybrid comes out a little cheaper (base on making 5gals worth) but you have more components to deal with.
That is correct. Nice thing about the DIY AFR, aside from it being just one part, is that you can still adjust the trace elements up or down based on your tank's needs.
whoa, great video guys...and that E1-70 looks PHENOMENAL...and believe me, I don't use that word often....it took me three swipes to spell it right!!....hahahahahahaha....!
Love it!, BUT.. The -REAL Question IS : HOW and What ..do you adjust to get your parameters where You want them? (I know you're not going with the TM pro reef 7dkh & 400 calc? 1280 mag?
Sodium bicarbonate to adjust alkalinity, calcium chloride to adjust calcium, and a mix of magnesium sulfate and magnesium chloride to adjust magnesium.
As always a very interesting video, I use NSW, do you think I should still dose trace elements etc ? despite doing regular water changes roughly every two weeks !
Whether you're using natural sea water or a synthetic salt mix, your corals are still consuming trace elements. An ICP test can better confirm if you need to dose trace elements, but you'll likely find that you're low in some areas without some sort of dosing.
Any suggestions on how to curb Calcium Creep? We have seen Ca gradually creep up when dosing our 2 part Ionically balanced supplement. In the past, I have just curbed the Ca dose, but as I watch this video, I am wondering if ionically that is doing more harm than good. We do weekly water changes and yet this still occurs. Tx
Fantastic content, bravo! 👏 I saw the kit for sale at BRS before this video and bought the components I was missing. ;) A few comments/questions for @Bulk Reef Supply : 1. Ryan, you stated that you've been dosing Part C for 18 months in the E-170. Is that correct (for the full length of time), or did you only recently start dosing Part C? If correct, it sounds like this has been in the works for quite a while (~18 months)! 2. The video says add 4 scoops of Part C per gallon (because you can't dilute it more), but previously BRS stated adding 7.5 scoops per gallon (~2x more). I assume this was to allow a 1:1:1 dose instead of a 1:1:2 dose. I have a 7.5-scoop gallon made, do I need to toss it and make another 4-scoop batch? Or can I keep it and A) treat it as a 2x (7.5 scoop) batch, or B) did it precipitate out and I treat it as a 4 scoop batch? 3. I believe Tropic Marin says there isn't enough Magnesium (Mg) in Part C for adjustments (only to maintain balance). So I'll need a separate gallon of Mg Mix for adjustments, correct? 4. Finally, Tropic Marin's Bio Magnesium says it includes "...carbon dioxide in a natural, biologically available ironically balanced form" to prevent "ionic imbalance." What's this all about and how does it compare to BRS Mg mix? Does it just mean it won't pull CO2 from the tank water as it's included? But even if it pulled CO2, it would be temporary until enough air exchange reset the tank in equilibrium, correct? (Edit below:) 5. From the comments, can we add A & K to Kalkwasser? If so, at what concentration? 6. Does it matter which part (A or K) goes with the Calcium and the Alkalinity? 7. Note: In an informational video by Lou Ekus (CEO, Tropic Marin USA), he said to dose Part C to match the lesser of the two (Ca/Alk) if the dosages aren't exactly 1:1. (In the BRS&TM-hybrid, that should be 2x the lesser of the two.)
1. BRS two part and Tropic Marin Part C was used as soon as we needed to dose the tank. Basically from the time that the first corals were added, so technically not a full 18 months ago due to the longer 4 month cycle. That's all discussed in the BRS/WWC hybrid series on our TH-cam channel if you'd like more in-depth info. 2. The 4 scoops per gallon of RODI is a revised recommendation from Tropic Marin. The concern with the previous 7.5 scoop recommendation was a higher risk of precipitation. 3. Correct 4. This is basically just the ratio of magnesium sulfate to magnesium chloride. We offer two different magnesium mixes to help maintain this balance depending on what you're using it for (daily dosing vs one-time adjustments). Ryan has an FAQ video on more in depth differences on the channel here if you want to learn more. 5. The A- and K+ products are separated by anion vs cation, so by mixing them together, you're almost certainly going to have precipitation issues. 6. Yes, the instructions in the video is what we recommend using what we know about our BRS two part and also taking Tropic Marin's recommendations into consideration.
@@BRStv #2 follow-up: Is my 7.5 scoop batch still good/woth to use? #5 follow-up: The All-for-Reef recipe (www.tropicmarin-usa.com/AFRRecipe.html) says to mix 100ml of both A- and K+ in the same gallon. Will that not precipitate also? (Or I'm wondering if 100ml was selected specifically to avoid precipitation.)
and i still don't understand why i cant just use a little more os component C as a trace elements supplement as well as keeping the ionic balance in the tank's water?i could just use a little more of part C and have a slightly elevated minor and trace elements to meet my tank's demands , the only problem i see is that part c contains magnesium so its levels might get too high with time....am i wrong here?
All For Reef will do a similar job at the end of the day. The real positive to using the BRS two part and Tropic Marin Part C/Trace elements is that you can independently adjust the calcium and alkalinity as needed. That said, if you're doing regular water changes with the All For Reef, you probably won't notice things become unbalanced. And if they do, that's a pretty easy fix.
If Part C is minor and trace elements, why not just dose more Part C than dose Part A+ and K+? Is it that there is a difference in minor elements consumption and trace elements consumption, so it’s better to isolate them and add different doses of each? I’m just thinking that you explained the necessity of Part C as just bringing the balance back to the salt, so in essence accounting for the diluted water change, but adding A+ and K+ is to account for the coral consumption. But if u add more C, then it can account for both the freshwater addition AND the coral consumption. I’m just trying to simplify this as much as possible. If Part C is truly all the minor and trace elements that A+ and K+ has, it makes sense to me to simply just dose more C. I’m not sure why that wouldn’t work.
In a different trace elements video, you said to mix 7.5 scoops part C making a gallon and dose equal amounts, but in this video you said you can't mix more then four scoops and have to double the dose compared to alk and calc with brs bulk. So what is it? 2:32
4 scoops per 1 gallon of RODI and dosing twice as much is the current recommendation. This was changed due to concerns of precipitation with the 7.5 scoops per gallon ratio that was previously suggested. Ultimately, the results are virtually identical.
Hey BRS, great video. I have a quick question. Lets say that I am in a situation where I know based on ICP testing that my Sodium level are elevated, is it possible to mix up only part C and do a water change with that?
I don't think id do that but only because there are some unknowns. That and a single dilution event is not likely to be a major issue so i would remove some saltwater and replace it with fresh. Better would be actual water changes but less effective at reducing salinity and more expensive.,
Bulk Reef Supply thanks for the reply. I am currently waiting for a second IPC test to confirm the elevated Sodium level but then will probably need to start planning how to handle this. Currently working on setting a hybrid 2-part/Kalk system. Kalk to elevate the pH and then trident controlled 2 part to really lock things in as far as Alk and Ca levels go. I am thinking that adding the the traces as described her is the way to go and then stop with the Red Sea trace colors program. One last question, with the part c is is possible to do one weekly addition or is a daily addition preferred?
How does dosing Kalkwasser factor into this? I dose Kalkwasser to offset the cost of BRS two part and also to keep pH at acceptable levels. As it seems we are finding out pH is pretty important after all.
@@BRStv I figured as much but wanted to make sure. Before I screw something up. Kalkwasser is new to me. Never really dosed it in all my years. It is really helping with pH so I think I will keep it up.
Any benefit to just dosing Tropic Marin K and A into my 2 part but not part C? I manually dose Magnesium weekly. Also, can Part C be dosed weekly? I really dont have room in my sump for another doser or an outlet for another timer....lol.
You could certainly dose the part C by hand less frequently. If you're going to take the effort in including the A and K products into your trace element regimen, it would be hard to recommend skipping the part C.
The A- and K+ products are separated by anion vs cation (negatively and positively charged), so by mixing them together, you're almost certainly going to have precipitation issues
In the Jan 11 2019 video Ep13: Major, minor and trace elements for your reef tank - The BRS/WWC System, it says to add 168 grams or 7 1/2 scoops to a gallon of water to make a solution that is dosed in equal parts to Alk and Cal. Now on the webpage for trace elements package says to do four scoops and dose twice as much. I have never had any problem with the concentration of my solution at 168 grams per gallon precipitating so why the procedural change?
Would it be reasonable to assume that a new tank of all sps would be ideal to start dosing 2 part with A and B in the first 6 months to maintain Ca and Alk levels as well as keep a stable PH during the growout phase?
The amount of A and K that you'd want to dose is directly related to the coral mass in the tank. If you're starting out with larger colonies instead of frags, you should take that into account when making your decision 🙂
That's a good question. It's not well known how much calcium reactor media contributes to trace elements in the tank. It will certainly depend on the type of media you're using too. There is no sodium chloride by product with calcium reactors, so no part C needed. That said, you can certainly use the A and K supplements if you're low on trace elements. I'd suggest first sending in an ICP test to see where you're at to get a base line.
So if I'm using BRS products but I'm using Sodium Bicarbonate instead of Soda Ash should I still be using Part C at a rate of double my Calcium and Alkalinity daily additive? I've been dosing 45 ml of A, 45 ml of B, and 45 ml of C. Should C be 90 ml? Thanks.
@Chris' Aquatics my guess to the reason why is that since Sodium Bicarbonate has only one sodium (Na), while sodium carbonate (a.k.a. soda ash) has two, you only need half as much to compensate for sodium build-up.
Magnesium dosing will need to be done separately. Sometimes reefers won't even need to dose magnesium if they have a consistent water change schedule. If you find that you need to add magnesium, we normally suggest dosing by hand and skipping the dosing pump to save some cash.
Auto water changes have been part of it, but the calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium dosing is all thanks to BRS two part. Tropic Marin Part C has been used as well and now we've added in the Tropic Marin A and K elements as Ryan discussed in this video 🙂
@@justinswinney3344 Read through the comments about the old formula (7.5 scoops per gallon, double dose). BRS said that Tropic Marin now only recommends 4 scoops per gallon due to precipitation. Perhaps I'm wrong and the precipitation occurs once the formula hits/mixes with tank water. Each element will precipitate at a different concentration and likely influenced by the other elements in concentration.
Dev Adroid don’t think we’re talking about the same stuff. I’m talking about the coral trace k+ that they recommend adding 0-330ml per gallon of brs calcium. The k+ is a liquid. No scoops
@@justinswinney3344 Ah! Part C is *also* trace element replacement/maintenance/balancer, but only accounting for sodium-balance. I'll defer to BRS or Tropic Marin (but my money is on double-dose to match Calcium is the way to go). ;)
Shouldn't you be just adding part C to your Top-Off? The top off water is what your trying to counterbalance the addition of ...whic is added to counter the sodium in the 2part ( + counter evap)
The excess sodium we're talking about comes from using sodium carbonate and calcium chloride. When your tank consumes them, you're left with calcium carbonate (coral growth) and sodium chloride (salt). In this case, evaporation doesn't have anything to do with it and everything to do with the amount of two part you dose. That said, it's still important to top the tank off with freshwater to help maintain a stable salinity level, but that's a separate conversation.
Got it. I forgot everyone else's top off is based off of a certain water level which can be maintained and still experience salinty rising from 2 part. My top off is based off salinity so it accounts for evap AND 2 part... but your right I still wouldnt want to add thete because I only want to address the raise from 2 part. Unless I can calculate the amount of top off ratio that accounts for 2 part only. ..I cant. : (
hi one quesion, i got 2 tanks, the big 135 gallons use BALLING METHOD AS: brs 2 part + magnessium, plus tropic marin part c and trace A-, K+. smaller nano tank by using tropic marin "all for reef". both of my tank has at least 50% of sps acropora corals, but i didnt see anyhow the potassium was within any bottles of the balling method n the "all for reef" single bottle. my question is what else need to dose beside the balling method and the "all in one" solution in order to achieve a real complete dose? thanks!!!
Tropic Marin doesn't consider potassium to be a trace element, so it's not included in the A or K. They consider it a major element. If your tank is low on potassium, our suggestion would be to dose it individually as needed.
It takes a lot of magnesium to have an impact on a reef tank, so getting everything dissolved properly would be quite a challenge. Totally understand the desire though; it would certainly be nice!
Bulk Reef Supply I hope BRS is considering making a 2 part with these trace elements included in powder form. Sell it in increments of proportionally 80ml of trace per gallon, and tax on something with the mag for marketing purposes. Or maybe just sell the powder of trace elements separately. I just bought 500ml of the A and K and 30$ of that was probably spent on rodi water and shipping weight!
This seems essentially identical to Aquaforest Kh, calcium magnesium/reef mineral salt, with AF strong(4xtrace element solutions that mix in to the other solutions) with but with variable amounts of the trace elements. It there a difference in the chemistry that I’m missing?
RODI takes out more than just those elements though. So add back what you want/need at a perfect balance, or include EVERYTHING your water source decides you get and might be lacking. xD
I reached out to Tropic Marin to see if it was indeed included in the K+ (because K usually stands for Potassium) and this is the response I received. Lots of good info from Lou here 🙂 Potassium is not considered a “trace” element. It exists in much higher concentration than what we usually consider “trace”. The “K” in Trace K stands for “cation” (in German) as the A in Trace A stands for anion. So the Trace K has the positive ions and the Trace A has the negative ions…..of the 17 traces we address: -K+ ELEMENTS contains cations of the trace elements barium, chrome, cobalt, iron, copper, manganese, nickel, strontium and zinc in pure mineral form - A- ELEMENTS contains anions of the trace elements bromine, fluorine, iodine, lithium, molybdenum, selenium and vanadium in pure mineral form. Potassium needs to be dealt with separately as does Mg. Both of those on not generally considered technically “trace”.
Finally, you can add Trace Elements to your BRS 2 Part dosing! We have the kits and instructions right here!
➡ Bulk BRS/Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling : brs.li/BRS_BallingHybrid_Bulk
➡ Just the Trace Elements : brs.li/BRS_TropicMarin_BallingTrace
➡ All BRS Pharma Additives : brs.li/BRS_BulkPharma_Additives
is the link broken?
The lack of trace elements is what was holding me back from switching to your pharma grade 2 part. Really happy to see this option available. I already purchased some to make the switch. Thanks BRS!
I’m just starting this method. I was getting tired of playing mad scientist. I was also getting worried that I may be doing more harm than good. I currently use Tropic Marin pro salt and BRS 2 part. Thank you BRS and Tropic Marin for giving us this information and these products to use to be successful.
Lmao why do people down vote when he’s not saying anything overtly controversial? Thumbs up to a great video!
Haters gonna hate
Tang police
People see a tang in a tank and lose their mind. Both tangs look happy and fit the tank well really set off the colors
Well, sadly, I've been doing this wrong with the BRS combo, guess I'll make the changes. Thanks guys!
Ryan that shirt is a bold statement 😂
Reminds me of something David from Schitts Creek would wear. Lol
Hi, what products would you recommend for overseas (in the UK) where we can't buy the BRS products? Thanks
@BRSTV what is your favorite supplementation method? Triton, TMPR Balling , Red Sea or.. ?
What is the weight of the 4 scoops, for us that like to use weight vs volume.
I agree (hopefully Tropic Marin can tell us rather than someone manually measuring the 4 scoops). Grams would be welcomed.
Thanks for the info, have been waiting for this one! My one question would be, does part C account for magnesium or am I going to be dosing 4 parts for my 2 part? Thanks!
Yes. I had the same question and it seems part C is a salt mix with everything except calcium and alkalinity.
You'll want to dose magnesium separately. Most of us around the BRS office dose magnesium less frequently and by hand. The magnesium in the Part C is only enough to account for the imbalance that occurs from the sodium chloride byproduct of two part dosing.
Do you guys still have this tank up and running? Do you still use the hybrid method?
In previous BRS video (brs/wwc system ep13), the recommendation was 7.5 scoops of tropic marin part C to 1 gallon of BRS 2 parts, (two parts is the same concentration as that was mentioned in this video), What changed? is recommendation of only 4 scoops of part C due to tropic marin K and A additions? Thanks.
this is just their revised recommendation. prevents some potential precipitation.
Good question, I was just about to ask myself. I'm doing the 7.5 scoops now, guess I'll change to 4.
When do you dose the part C? I dose Alk and cal every hour 20 min apart.
I don't understand the dosing is this along with testing I only dose soda ash and I use a soda lime reactor and use tropic Marin reef Pro salt shifted water changes to every week adding trace element how do you know if you're not adding too much
Do you have to use "soda ash" with the k+ or can you use brs "sodium bicarbonate"
Would LOVE to know how this compares to their All for Reef product...
Me too, I’m currently running all for reef on my 90g tank and I’m very happy. Everything looks great and I only need one dosing head. But better is better🤔
Tropic Marin published the All-for-Reef receipe online. Ingredients are their own products: of which Calcium supplementation is not soda ash and includes A & K (according to this video their Bio-Calcium is sodium bicarbonate based).
IIRC, All-for-reef is supposed to be based on Calcium Formate (instead of sdoium carbonate/bicarbonate), which contains no sodium, therefore no Part C is needed to balance sodium concentrations. Only A & K are needed to balance out "consumption" by corals/organisms.
@@devadroid5269 I was thinking more about the effects on tank chemistry between the two as opposed to the documented physical differences
@@MiddleAgedMike I have a big bottle I have yet to start! Do you still use this? I was thinking of switching to this versus just there regular soda ash, calcium and mg just to add in the trace elements but this seems confusing to me! lol. Did you have any problems with alf? I read nothing but good reviews when I bought is but now reading a lot about alk swings and hard to get dialed in and I have to many new corals coming in so dont want to risk changing things but at the same time I want to add some trace element! How do you keep ph up?
This seems very complicated! I use ur soda ash, and calcium chloride and pharma mag mix. I am just looking to keep using that and add trace elements but this seems crazy difficult! I also have 3/4 full mixed jugs of all. Would i have to throw away and start over? How do I keep up my ph? I cant drill a hole! Would adding a small hob fuge help? is there and easier way to keep using what I have and add trace some kind of trace elements( if so what brand) a hob fuge or somehow convert my small 10 gallon sump into a fuge with baffles i have heard you speak of those and they are black and water can flow through! fuge. I also have nuvo 20 aio. I can make a small fuge with that! I already bought innovative marine fuge leds! Wow didint realize this would be so difficult to add! I don't get the salt and salinty build up either! Very confusing to an old lady reefer! lol
Question: Starting to dose this method (newly cycled tank), BRS 2 part + Tropic Marin. I will be doing 10% weekly water changes, do I add the two part to the new water to match the tanks parameters?
Some would say is not that necessary since it's only 10%, but depending on the size of your tank and how much higher you keep your parameters, it can def be something you would want to do.
The more important one to focus on is Alkalinity. You want to make sure and use bicarbonate for this and any adjustment. Mix your salt at the proper temp 72-75f (less chance of precip) & to the proper salinity, then test again hours later before adding your pre mixed liquid bicarb. Eve/Night & next morning is best practice. Salt dilutes & mixes fastest, but the rest can take more time to fully dissolve & mix properly. Its roughly 30 ml of brs liquid bicarb for a 1dkh increase in every 20 gal of sw.
Hopefully your sw bin has good circulation. I use a 20g brute w a large powerhead on bottom & my pump/ hose at the bottom with the hose coming out the top, neatly wound remainder of hose with the hose end then going back in and secured , shooting into the top of the stored sw along with a small pump near the top. ..where u can slowly add your salt and then the bicarb into flow.
The 2 pumps circulate around and the pump/hose ensures the water us mixed vertically, bottom to top as well, while keeping the hose clean & free of stagnant water. As the cheaper ac pumps you want to get for these applications are ON if plugged in, I suggest using a key fob remote outlet switch for turning them off and on at the push of a button. Allowing the actually plug/outlet to be safely out of you & waters reach.
Is there any difference if I were to dose part C by hand vs a dosing pump? And frequency would probably be weekly spaced evenly from my weekly water change schedule. Any thoughts?
I was frustrated at first, because I couldn't find the "1st-Part" of this video. Yeah...
Can I incorporate this method with Kalkwasser?
So with this "Tropic Marin Hybrid" method, I would need a 4 head dosing pump. Alk w/trace A- , Cal w/trace k+, Tropic Marin part C, and 1x Mag.
I can see this method is good for people with low PH issue but if you don't have an issue with PH , the All for Reef DIY is better in my opinion.
If cost is the issue, the Tropic Marin Hybrid comes out a little cheaper (base on making 5gals worth) but you have more components to deal with.
That is correct. Nice thing about the DIY AFR, aside from it being just one part, is that you can still adjust the trace elements up or down based on your tank's needs.
Good Day from Germany.........
Das booooot! Sorry just watched beer fest
whoa, great video guys...and that E1-70 looks PHENOMENAL...and believe me, I don't use that word often....it took me three swipes to spell it right!!....hahahahahahaha....!
Amazing tank with great growth. What temperature has it been running at?
We aim for 78 degrees on all of our systems.
Love it!, BUT.. The -REAL Question IS : HOW and What ..do you adjust to get your parameters where You want them? (I know you're not going with the TM pro reef 7dkh & 400 calc? 1280 mag?
Sodium bicarbonate to adjust alkalinity, calcium chloride to adjust calcium, and a mix of magnesium sulfate and magnesium chloride to adjust magnesium.
what should you do if you are using more soda ash than calcium cloride?
Awesome👍👍
As always a very interesting video, I use NSW, do you think I should still dose trace elements etc ? despite doing regular water changes roughly every two weeks !
Whether you're using natural sea water or a synthetic salt mix, your corals are still consuming trace elements. An ICP test can better confirm if you need to dose trace elements, but you'll likely find that you're low in some areas without some sort of dosing.
Bulk Reef Supply many thanks for your reply, it’s really appreciated 👍
Any suggestions on how to curb Calcium Creep? We have seen Ca gradually creep up when dosing our 2 part Ionically balanced supplement. In the past, I have just curbed the Ca dose, but as I watch this video, I am wondering if ionically that is doing more harm than good. We do weekly water changes and yet this still occurs. Tx
How this method compare to Triton?
Fantastic content, bravo! 👏 I saw the kit for sale at BRS before this video and bought the components I was missing. ;)
A few comments/questions for @Bulk Reef Supply :
1. Ryan, you stated that you've been dosing Part C for 18 months in the E-170. Is that correct (for the full length of time), or did you only recently start dosing Part C? If correct, it sounds like this has been in the works for quite a while (~18 months)!
2. The video says add 4 scoops of Part C per gallon (because you can't dilute it more), but previously BRS stated adding 7.5 scoops per gallon (~2x more). I assume this was to allow a 1:1:1 dose instead of a 1:1:2 dose. I have a 7.5-scoop gallon made, do I need to toss it and make another 4-scoop batch? Or can I keep it and A) treat it as a 2x (7.5 scoop) batch, or B) did it precipitate out and I treat it as a 4 scoop batch?
3. I believe Tropic Marin says there isn't enough Magnesium (Mg) in Part C for adjustments (only to maintain balance). So I'll need a separate gallon of Mg Mix for adjustments, correct?
4. Finally, Tropic Marin's Bio Magnesium says it includes "...carbon dioxide in a natural, biologically available ironically balanced form" to prevent "ionic imbalance." What's this all about and how does it compare to BRS Mg mix? Does it just mean it won't pull CO2 from the tank water as it's included? But even if it pulled CO2, it would be temporary until enough air exchange reset the tank in equilibrium, correct?
(Edit below:)
5. From the comments, can we add A & K to Kalkwasser? If so, at what concentration?
6. Does it matter which part (A or K) goes with the Calcium and the Alkalinity?
7. Note: In an informational video by Lou Ekus (CEO, Tropic Marin USA), he said to dose Part C to match the lesser of the two (Ca/Alk) if the dosages aren't exactly 1:1. (In the BRS&TM-hybrid, that should be 2x the lesser of the two.)
1. BRS two part and Tropic Marin Part C was used as soon as we needed to dose the tank. Basically from the time that the first corals were added, so technically not a full 18 months ago due to the longer 4 month cycle. That's all discussed in the BRS/WWC hybrid series on our TH-cam channel if you'd like more in-depth info.
2. The 4 scoops per gallon of RODI is a revised recommendation from Tropic Marin. The concern with the previous 7.5 scoop recommendation was a higher risk of precipitation.
3. Correct
4. This is basically just the ratio of magnesium sulfate to magnesium chloride. We offer two different magnesium mixes to help maintain this balance depending on what you're using it for (daily dosing vs one-time adjustments). Ryan has an FAQ video on more in depth differences on the channel here if you want to learn more.
5. The A- and K+ products are separated by anion vs cation, so by mixing them together, you're almost certainly going to have precipitation issues.
6. Yes, the instructions in the video is what we recommend using what we know about our BRS two part and also taking Tropic Marin's recommendations into consideration.
@@BRStv #2 follow-up: Is my 7.5 scoop batch still good/woth to use?
#5 follow-up: The All-for-Reef recipe (www.tropicmarin-usa.com/AFRRecipe.html) says to mix 100ml of both A- and K+ in the same gallon. Will that not precipitate also? (Or I'm wondering if 100ml was selected specifically to avoid precipitation.)
The most easy I have and that work is the ati essentials pro, just two bottle, cheap no head each same the other methods
and i still don't understand why i cant just use a little more os component C as a trace elements supplement as well as keeping the ionic balance in the tank's water?i could just use a little more of part C and have a slightly elevated minor and trace elements to meet my tank's demands , the only problem i see is that part c contains magnesium so its levels might get too high with time....am i wrong here?
Now that TMP has the ALL FOR REEF powder mix, would that be better than this method??
All For Reef will do a similar job at the end of the day. The real positive to using the BRS two part and Tropic Marin Part C/Trace elements is that you can independently adjust the calcium and alkalinity as needed.
That said, if you're doing regular water changes with the All For Reef, you probably won't notice things become unbalanced. And if they do, that's a pretty easy fix.
@@BRStv thank you! 👍
If Part C is minor and trace elements, why not just dose more Part C than dose Part A+ and K+? Is it that there is a difference in minor elements consumption and trace elements consumption, so it’s better to isolate them and add different doses of each? I’m just thinking that you explained the necessity of Part C as just bringing the balance back to the salt, so in essence accounting for the diluted water change, but adding A+ and K+ is to account for the coral consumption. But if u add more C, then it can account for both the freshwater addition AND the coral consumption. I’m just trying to simplify this as much as possible. If Part C is truly all the minor and trace elements that A+ and K+ has, it makes sense to me to simply just dose more C. I’m not sure why that wouldn’t work.
In a different trace elements video, you said to mix 7.5 scoops part C making a gallon and dose equal amounts, but in this video you said you can't mix more then four scoops and have to double the dose compared to alk and calc with brs bulk. So what is it?
2:32
4 scoops per 1 gallon of RODI and dosing twice as much is the current recommendation. This was changed due to concerns of precipitation with the 7.5 scoops per gallon ratio that was previously suggested. Ultimately, the results are virtually identical.
Hey BRS, great video. I have a quick question. Lets say that I am in a situation where I know based on ICP testing that my Sodium level are elevated, is it possible to mix up only part C and do a water change with that?
I don't think id do that but only because there are some unknowns. That and a single dilution event is not likely to be a major issue so i would remove some saltwater and replace it with fresh. Better would be actual water changes but less effective at reducing salinity and more expensive.,
Bulk Reef Supply thanks for the reply. I am currently waiting for a second IPC test to confirm the elevated Sodium level but then will probably need to start planning how to handle this.
Currently working on setting a hybrid 2-part/Kalk system. Kalk to elevate the pH and then trident controlled 2 part to really lock things in as far as Alk and Ca levels go. I am thinking that adding the the traces as described her is the way to go and then stop with the Red Sea trace colors program.
One last question, with the part c is is possible to do one weekly addition or is a daily addition preferred?
Are these recipes accounted for in the BRS alkalinity and calcium online calculators?
EDIT: Ah, it's mentioned in the video
How does dosing Kalkwasser factor into this?
I dose Kalkwasser to offset the cost of BRS two part and also to keep pH at acceptable levels. As it seems we are finding out pH is pretty important after all.
Kalkwasser doesn't have a sodium chloride by product like two part does, so you can ignore your kalkwasser dose when calculating your part c dose.
@@BRStv I figured as much but wanted to make sure. Before I screw something up. Kalkwasser is new to me. Never really dosed it in all my years. It is really helping with pH so I think I will keep it up.
Any benefit to just dosing Tropic Marin K and A into my 2 part but not part C? I manually dose Magnesium weekly. Also, can Part C be dosed weekly? I really dont have room in my sump for another doser or an outlet for another timer....lol.
You could certainly dose the part C by hand less frequently. If you're going to take the effort in including the A and K products into your trace element regimen, it would be hard to recommend skipping the part C.
Is the a Miracle or pure evolution ?
Can you add part A and K to kalk solution so you only have to dose one solution
Great question! I'd also like to know.
The A- and K+ products are separated by anion vs cation (negatively and positively charged), so by mixing them together, you're almost certainly going to have precipitation issues
In the Jan 11 2019 video Ep13: Major, minor and trace elements for your reef tank - The BRS/WWC System, it says to add 168 grams or 7 1/2 scoops to a gallon of water to make a solution that is dosed in equal parts to Alk and Cal. Now on the webpage for trace elements package says to do four scoops and dose twice as much. I have never had any problem with the concentration of my solution at 168 grams per gallon precipitating so why the procedural change?
After discussions with Tropic Marin, they suggested the 4 scoops per gallon instead to help avoid potential precipitation issues during storage.
Would it be reasonable to assume that a new tank of all sps would be ideal to start dosing 2 part with A and B in the first 6 months to maintain Ca and Alk levels as well as keep a stable PH during the growout phase?
The amount of A and K that you'd want to dose is directly related to the coral mass in the tank. If you're starting out with larger colonies instead of frags, you should take that into account when making your decision 🙂
How does this all change when using kalkwasser in top off, instead of using two-part
Because there is not Sodium (Na) in Kalkwasser.
Ca(OH)2 = Kalkwasser
OH- + CO2 = HCO3 = Bicarbonate
OH- + HCO3 = CO3-- + H20 = Carbonate + Pure Water
The tank will benefit from a trace element replenishment solution at some point but salinity is not an issue.
My guess is Part C is not needed, but A and K trace elements would.
Ok so no Part C, but still does the A & K
@@BenPiermattei Correct, due to consumption by corals (& other organisms)
I run a calcium reactor... can I use the A+ and K- along with part c? Just curious.
That's a good question. It's not well known how much calcium reactor media contributes to trace elements in the tank. It will certainly depend on the type of media you're using too. There is no sodium chloride by product with calcium reactors, so no part C needed. That said, you can certainly use the A and K supplements if you're low on trace elements. I'd suggest first sending in an ICP test to see where you're at to get a base line.
So if I'm using BRS products but I'm using Sodium Bicarbonate instead of Soda Ash should I still be using Part C at a rate of double my Calcium and Alkalinity daily additive? I've been dosing 45 ml of A, 45 ml of B, and 45 ml of C. Should C be 90 ml? Thanks.
If you are using sodium bicarbonate I would follow TM's balling method precisely. In this case equal parts of each.
@@BRStv Thank you very much
@Chris' Aquatics my guess to the reason why is that since Sodium Bicarbonate has only one sodium (Na), while sodium carbonate (a.k.a. soda ash) has two, you only need half as much to compensate for sodium build-up.
The background music gets stuck in my head.
1:41 what is the name of the green coral reef?
I believe you're looking at the WWC Slimeball Anacropora 🙂
Nice shirt buddy. Was just getting tired of looking at ya. I watch you and Randy more than mybwife watches me.Lol
what does this mean for magnesium dosing ?
Magnesium dosing will need to be done separately. Sometimes reefers won't even need to dose magnesium if they have a consistent water change schedule. If you find that you need to add magnesium, we normally suggest dosing by hand and skipping the dosing pump to save some cash.
You guys grew that tank out just by water changes? If so I been doing it wrong...
Auto water changes have been part of it, but the calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium dosing is all thanks to BRS two part. Tropic Marin Part C has been used as well and now we've added in the Tropic Marin A and K elements as Ryan discussed in this video 🙂
So if I’m making my calcium double strength do I just double the dose of the trace elements?
No, due to precipitation while mixing/storing.
Dev Adroid the trace elements precipitate?
@@justinswinney3344 Read through the comments about the old formula (7.5 scoops per gallon, double dose). BRS said that Tropic Marin now only recommends 4 scoops per gallon due to precipitation. Perhaps I'm wrong and the precipitation occurs once the formula hits/mixes with tank water. Each element will precipitate at a different concentration and likely influenced by the other elements in concentration.
Dev Adroid don’t think we’re talking about the same stuff. I’m talking about the coral trace k+ that they recommend adding 0-330ml per gallon of brs calcium. The k+ is a liquid. No scoops
@@justinswinney3344 Ah! Part C is *also* trace element replacement/maintenance/balancer, but only accounting for sodium-balance. I'll defer to BRS or Tropic Marin (but my money is on double-dose to match Calcium is the way to go). ;)
what is that tank please?
This is the Red Sea E-170 😃
www.bulkreefsupply.com/max-e-170-led-complete-reef-system-red-sea.html
So since my tank is less than a year old I should only dose part c?
that's what TM and we would recommend.
Bulk Reef Supply oh okay so it’s recommended to dose part c and the regular brs calcium and alkalinity 2 part solution?
Was wondering the same thing
Shouldn't you be just adding part C to your Top-Off? The top off water is what your trying to counterbalance the addition of ...whic is added to counter the sodium in the 2part ( + counter evap)
The excess sodium we're talking about comes from using sodium carbonate and calcium chloride. When your tank consumes them, you're left with calcium carbonate (coral growth) and sodium chloride (salt). In this case, evaporation doesn't have anything to do with it and everything to do with the amount of two part you dose. That said, it's still important to top the tank off with freshwater to help maintain a stable salinity level, but that's a separate conversation.
Got it. I forgot everyone else's top off is based off of a certain water level which can be maintained and still experience salinty rising from 2 part. My top off is based off salinity so it accounts for evap AND 2 part... but your right I still wouldnt want to add thete because I only want to address the raise from 2 part. Unless I can calculate the amount of top off ratio that accounts for 2 part only. ..I cant. : (
hi one quesion, i got 2 tanks, the big 135 gallons use BALLING METHOD AS: brs 2 part + magnessium, plus tropic marin part c and trace A-, K+. smaller nano tank by using tropic marin "all for reef". both of my tank has at least 50% of sps acropora corals, but i didnt see anyhow the potassium was within any bottles of the balling method n the "all for reef" single bottle. my question is what else need to dose beside the balling method and the "all in one" solution in order to achieve a real complete dose? thanks!!!
Tropic Marin doesn't consider potassium to be a trace element, so it's not included in the A or K. They consider it a major element. If your tank is low on potassium, our suggestion would be to dose it individually as needed.
It’s unusual that you listed the ingredients nearly right away. Most TH-camrs would make one wait til the end.
Haha... Tropic Marin is transparent about them, as they are listed on our website and their reading material, so not much of a big "Ah-Ha". :)
Why not just mix the calcium and magnesium chloride and go from 4 to 3 part dosing?
Since they're very concentrated solutions, we keep them separate to avoid precipitation and to maintain potency.
@@BRStv I think you avoid precipitation and maintain ionic balance with this formula. - (part 1) 500g calcium chloride + 260g magnesium chloride + K+ trace - (part 2) 375g sodium carbonate + 69g sodium sulfate + A- trace - (part 3) Tropic Marin part C. Thoughts?
I just wish mag was somehow incorporated into part C.
It takes a lot of magnesium to have an impact on a reef tank, so getting everything dissolved properly would be quite a challenge. Totally understand the desire though; it would certainly be nice!
Bulk Reef Supply I hope BRS is considering making a 2 part with these trace elements included in powder form. Sell it in increments of proportionally 80ml of trace per gallon, and tax on something with the mag for marketing purposes.
Or maybe just sell the powder of trace elements separately. I just bought 500ml of the A and K and 30$ of that was probably spent on rodi water and shipping weight!
This seems essentially identical to Aquaforest Kh, calcium magnesium/reef mineral salt, with AF strong(4xtrace element solutions that mix in to the other solutions) with but with variable amounts of the trace elements. It there a difference in the chemistry that I’m missing?
You mean the balling method isn't buying high end frags....damn.
no no that's the BALLIN' method..lol
Many of these elements were stripped after RODI waste of $$$
RODI takes out more than just those elements though. So add back what you want/need at a perfect balance, or include EVERYTHING your water source decides you get and might be lacking. xD
Where is the Potassium?
Joao Tomas in the K+
@@John_Benson The product description does not list Potassium as an ingredient.
I reached out to Tropic Marin to see if it was indeed included in the K+ (because K usually stands for Potassium) and this is the response I received. Lots of good info from Lou here 🙂
Potassium is not considered a “trace” element. It exists in much higher concentration than what we usually consider “trace”. The “K” in Trace K stands for “cation” (in German) as the A in Trace A stands for anion. So the Trace K has the positive ions and the Trace A has the negative ions…..of the 17 traces we address:
-K+ ELEMENTS contains cations of the trace elements barium, chrome, cobalt, iron, copper, manganese, nickel, strontium and zinc in pure mineral form
- A- ELEMENTS contains anions of the trace elements bromine, fluorine, iodine, lithium, molybdenum, selenium and vanadium in pure mineral form.
Potassium needs to be dealt with separately as does Mg. Both of those on not generally considered technically “trace”.
@@BRStv thank you 👍👍