Confirmed latest US batch to ship out early November has no pairing capabilities and any 24v 7.5A+ 180W+ PSU should work as long as wired correctly. I chose to use an enclosed IP67 24v 8.3A 200W LED Driver with a single 2 wire output lead that is UL/ETL/RoHS/etc listed. I did notice with the CSL DD that I get A LOT of EMI/RFI. My shifter would not calibrate with the CSL DD power wire cable managed in with the shifter RJ12 cable and wheel base data cable. This is not just my DIY PSU, but the Fanatec 5nm 90w power supply as well. I purchased some clip on ferrites in hopes they reduce any EMI/RFI. Knowing this now, if I were to DIY another power supply I would probably do it with shielded wiring.
@@Polymer I reached out to Fanatec support and explained to them I am unable to calibrate my shifter with the CSL DD without a bunch of hoping and praying it will go through instead of being stuck on "SFT CAL." I received a reply within 24hrs that they will be sending me a replacement 200cm (6.5ft) RJ12 cable with ferrite cores already installed. I guess this is somewhat of an issue with CSL DD by reading through their forums. I have installed some clip on ferrites on my DIY PSU as well as the base 5nm 90w PSU and it has not fixed the "SFT CAL" issue. I'd recommend anyone making their own PSU to install multiple clip on ring type ferrites to input and output wiring, as well as reach out to support if you are using a Fanatec shifter wired to your wheel base via RJ12.
Tested it with a MeanWell GST280A24-C6P 280W / 24V power supply, with the 4pin cable from your amazon link, just needed to change the male end to a Molex 46993-0610, and works as well, no soldering needed, looks clean.
hi, can you please describe your "recipe", I'm not sure I follow your steps... PSU has male connector (white one), if we unplug and replace it with MLX 46993-0610 it would make it female. the 4pin cable is malefemale, so if we plug it in it would make the exposed/final terminal female and that's not what we need.
@@gene_the_dev_42 you don't need to modify the cable of the PSU, you change the connector on the 4 pin cable , so 4 pins will be populated but the connector will match the PSU side
@@fulee9999 Thanks, now i get it. Though probably will have to go with 4-pin din PSU (FSP180 or GST220A24) and solder the wires to a female 4din plug. GST280 is 80+ eur here (FSP is 50) + Molex 469930610 is hard to find separately.
Number 3 is excellent 💪👍 Edit: after testing this over the weekend, number 3 works very well indeed. The only addition I made was to use a small piece of plastic to ‘brace’ the adapter, just to make sure the weight was on the cable rather than the connectors. So simple!
hello good, great video, I like a lot, how's the steering wheel going with 8nm ??? You can tell the difference compared to 5nm, right ???? I think I'm going to opt for the 24v 200w source of option 3. I like it. hee, thank you very much
I've bought a used "INVACARE PMP180SF-14 K1" 180W 24V Power supply for 25€ from eBay and soldered a CPU ATX connector from an old ATX power supply onto it. Tripple checked the voltages on each pin so I don't brick my DD. Works like a charm!
@@Polymer Just came back from my neighbor who is an electrician :D The process was really simple for him as the PSU has just the 4 cables needed. Voltages on the pins are perfect but unfortunately I can't test it already because im in wave 2 and my DD is not here yet. I'll report back once I have the DD and tested it. But I can definitely recommend the Invacare PSU!
@@Polymer My CSL DD came in today and wooow just wow was the 8nm diy kit worth it!! It works like a charm 😍 A bit nervous plugging it in at first but holy moly is that crazy, definitely worth it over 5
Thanks for this. I got a 180w 7.5A led power supply from ebay and it works a charm. Just been for a quick hoon around the Nords' to test, and my hands and wrists are hurting from the ffb.
The wheel base is at a fair price but no way they expect people to pay full price for that power supply. Thanks for the video you saved a lot of people some money!
Great video. I'm still probably going to simp for fanatec and buy the boost kit, but if this works, I'm sure we will see a good number of aftermarket/3rd party suppliers developing their own boost kits for much cheaper. This is a big win for the consumer!
My thoughts exactly, 150 bucks for a power brick I already own is a no-no for me. You'll probably have third party alternatives out before the first retail DD's ship :D
Great to know, thanks. I've got one of these too, but not got the DD yet. Would be interested to know how you wired it. I was thinking I'd cut the 6 way connector off and solder onto a 4 pin cable.
@@NickAronson I have the 4 pin version of the PSU, however there were only two lines inside the cable, so it's pretty straightforward ( edit: also I've cut off the connector and just soldered everything and then shrink wrapped it )
AWESOME!!! 👍👍👍 (Considering I made this video BEFORE the product was even released, and without ever owning one or even seeing one, I am very pleased it worked out so well!!!)
Right first of all thanks for the tip! I went for solution number 3 with a twist! I had two of the 90w power supply so I bought a non original csl elite power supply for 30€ and chop the connectors off and wired the 90w conector to the 180w (non original) power supply and works perfect!! I finish it all off with a heavy duty heat shrink tubing and it does feels very robust. Hope this help others too!
I've made psu from one which I bought. It is 24V and 8.3A. The CSL DD is working fine. The FFB feels much stronger and the overall feeling is much better. It cost me around 25$.
@@High.on.Life_DnB no, I think I've seen it in this is other videos but more doesn't matter, only less. Device only asks for as much power as it needs. Picture your PC with 500W consumption but 700W PSU. The components in the pc won't get fried because of this, unless you change voltage needs in their own kernels.
I understand that the 8Nm power supply from Fanatec is supposed to be a license fee, which is understandable. The main issue is that if the power supply goes bad out of warranty, you would have to buy the 150 euros power supply again which is utterly laughable. For that reason these guides are necessary.
Thanks for this. I've got the GT DD Pro on pre-order and went ahead and made my own boost kit with the $20 generic switching power supply. Ended up putting a 4-pin molex on the end of my 4-pin ATX extension, which went to 4 longer wires with fork/spade terminals on the ends to easily slide under the screw terminals of the PSU.
the Meanwell LRS350-24 is a commonly available one and usually for cheap, especially since they're often used in cheaper 3D printers so these should also be readily available
This is EXACTLY what I'll be doing with mine. I'll use an adapter for my CSL Elite PSU. That way, I know for sure that it'll work. I'm sure as hell NOT paying $150 for a $90 PSU that I already own.
@@j9h585 I have not purchased one yet. That may be months away. You'll hurt your warranty regardless. And besides. Fanatec gear lasts for quite a while. Fundamentally, it won't be a "3rd party" issue since the PSU will still be a Fanatec one with the exact same specs. All that's different is the connection. And since CSL DDs are proving to be fairly reliable, I wouldn't sweat the warranty. The only Fanatec item I've ever had to replace was a plastic potentiometer on my pedals. And that was 3 years after I bought it.
Fun fact, the CSL DD actually consumes about 90W peak in 8Nm mode, and 60W peak in in 5Nm mode. So you probably would be fine with just rewireing the 90W power supply that comes with the 5nm version.
Thanks for that! Did you measure this? If the 8 N·m setting uses 90W peak, I'd NOT want to use a 90W power supply. Best leave some headroom. 180W sounds about right. MAYBE 120W-150W? 90W sounds MUCH too close to me....
@@Polymer Actually I remembered it wrong the 50W was the 8Nm setting, 5Nm was just 20W. There is a german guy who had reviewed the wheelbase with and without the boostkit and measured the power consumption: th-cam.com/video/X74_IXPE6hE/w-d-xo.html Also remember this is the power consumption on the input side, while the 90/180W rating is for the output, so considering the efficiency losses you actually have some more room left. Also this is a wheelbase, so naturally you never will have a constant peak load but rather very short bursts of high load, and electrical power supplies easily can go twice the rated load for short periods of time, the only thing that happens is a bit more heat is generated which ultimately does not matter at all because of thermal hysteresis. The only thing that possible could fuck you up would be a fuse inside the power supply.
@@playerone6434 Wow, only 50W? Cool (literally! 😁). Yeah, maybe someone SHOULD try the supplied 90W PSU then? That would definitely be an interesting exercise!
@@Polymer Waiting for someone to find a way to increase the torque the CSL DD can do, it stays ice cold at 8NM with an aftermarket 180w power supply I made..... Do we just push more amps??
@@monte0704 No, that won't work, at least not with just using a larger PSU. It's unknown what will happen if one were to increase the voltage (lets say to 30V), but my best guess is that the CSL DD will just shut off with over-voltage protection.
I connected my CSL DD Pro directly to the mains and instantly got 150 Nm. My friend is typing this message while visiting me in hospital (I dislocated my shoulder and cracked my skull slamming into the table).
I would be careful with this. Fanatec just has to put in lets call it a Virgin chip and then something happens, they can say it is your fault and it gets expensiv.
Yeah; any major modification to pretty much any product usually voids the warranty. There's always a pro vs. con decision to be made: it the risk worth the benefit???
These aftermarket power boost kits are they worth it and safe to use because I’ve been thinking of using one instead of paying 150$ when the aftermarket costs 40$ just curious if they cause problems look forward to your input. Love your videos keep up the great work sir.
Fanatec could have sold the upgrade for 50 bucks and most likely still made money. Its a shame they do something great like make the CSL DD but then shaft you if you want to unlock the 8nm.
They could be sacrificing margins on the 5Nm version in order to get more entry-level customers to buy into the ecosystem where they can then profit off selling accessories and wheel rims. It's the same concept as console manufacturers selling the hardware at a loss in order to wrestle marketshare and make back the profits with software. Selling a cheap 180W power brick for $150 does rub me the wrong way though, but fortunately for resourceful DIYers it's also potentially an avenue to get the full 8Nm performance for cheap.
Hei, I'm 2 years late since release of the video but maybe if you see this comment I would just like to ask if Meanwell RSP-200-24 would also work okay I heard that LRS work good but I couldn't find anything about the RSP. Thaks for this very helpful video.
I quickly looked at the specs and it seems okay, yes. What's interesting, is that it's about double the price than the LRS model. Also, it adds an active PFC Function, but I have no idea how that would interact with the CSL DD. It may work, but I can't give you a definite answer; I'd personally go for the cheaper LRS one.
great video, really really nice work! I have one question though: to which pin on the 4 pin ATX do I connect the negative terminal? is it the squared one or the other one?
TH-cam deleted my comment. I saw someone use Mealwell GST280A-C6P which has 6 PINS with 3 V+ and 3 V-, do i just use 2 V+ and 2 V- to connet to Molex 4-pin connector,for example, PIN1,3 to PIN1,4 PIN4,6 to PIN2,3.
Good question; I was wondering how they connect that too. If it were me I might take the three V+ and first go back to one wire, then split it from there again. So: take the three wires and do 3 ---> 1 ----> back to 2. Pretty messy though.
@@Polymer yeah,it will be pretty messy if do 3->1->2, maybe I will try Meanwell ELG-200-24A-3Y which is a C.V.+C.C. LED driver ,i am not sure if it will work well; or just try Meanwell LRS-200 like solution#4
@@lynzhang881 ***BE CAREFUL*** using CV/CC LED drivers, as they will reduce Voltage and maintain Amperage (switch automatically from CV to CC) and not work for the CSL DD.
Hey Polymer, can you tell the crowd why you do not recommend to use the CSL Elite PSU? Is it just because of cost or also quality? Because I was thinking to go with Option #3 (but with another PSU that can be bought on Amazon for isntance
Yes, perfectly fine. Option #3 is okay; I was initially concerned about having two connection points, but it should be perfectly fine to use option #3. As for the Fanatec CSL Elite PSU: I threw that in the garbage: th-cam.com/video/jHPihHAAssM/w-d-xo.html
@@Polymer Used an OMRON S8VK-C24024 PSU, bought the molex connector, let them put the pins on in the shop. Connected all the things at home, adjusted the output voltage with a multimeter, just in case, and connected them all. Night and Day difference
You have an EXCELLENT eye! 👍👍👍 Yes, it's indeed from a conveyor belt; I bought this short piece to fix a damaged flexible guard on a rotary hay rake, but never got to install it. Works well as a 'work mat'!! :)
Has been mentioned, yep, and I refer to it in the video. 👍 Many have stated that FANATEC would not know if the original or after-market PSU was used, as shipment for warranty repair would likely not involve the PSU. But it's a valid observation!
Does the 24V/200W 8A power supply, the $20 option, have any internal protection? I have read on the Amazon reviews for these power supplies which all appear to look basically the same across many China based sellers, that there is no internal protection. Thanks for pointing out some options even though we can't be sure if Fanatec will put a protection chip in to identify what PSU is connected. At least until around September 6th when they start to ship the first wave of pre-order units.
Protection: Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection None of which I tested, though. Yeah, final test is with an actual production CSL DD in September at the earliest.
@@Polymergot it. The link you posted in your other video for the power supply, used in the two videos, takes me to a 24V10A model, which has "S-250-24" on the side sticker, that shows it is 240W and 10 amps, which differs from the one in your video which has "S-200-24" on the side sticker. I'm guessing both the 8A (which is 200W max output) and the 10A (which is 240W max output) models should work for this application. Or is there a preference there as to not supply too much wattage / amperage? Well done tutorial video by the way. Once we get a CSL DD wheel base that someone can try this on it would be worth revisiting it to see if it needs any tweaks or if another power supply is recommended over the 3rd party choices that were covered here. I take it you pre-ordered, which wave were you in?
@@qsnexus633 Oh, wow, they already stopped selling the 200W model? THAT didn't last long!! But yes, the 240W will/should work also. You can't go 'too big', only 'too small'. Here's the 200W one from another seller: www.amazon.com/Aiposen-Transformer-Security-Computer-Project/dp/B01B1PREK6 I pre-ordered, and was Wave 1 eligible, but was pre-occupied at the time, and didn't order until wave 2 or 3 I think. Delivery not due until November...
@@Polymerok thanks for letting us know that the larger 240W 10A model would also work, you just can't go smaller than 200W max output. I found one for $16.99 that is 240W 10A. And yes, I do recall your post on Reddit to do with you missing the first wave barely and had a November delivery estimate. I luckily during Wave 1 got in within 5 minutes of the product being listed in the wheel bases section of their website, to complete the checkout with the CSL DD 5nm package and a McLaren wheel. Then I noticed they removed the CSL DD from the page for awhile after that hehe. I like you could not stomach paying the $130 to get the 8nm extra, and then not even get the 5nm included. I like you and many others are pretty certain the difference in cost between the 90w and 180w PSU brick is no more than $10 to $20 USD. Probably under $10 in large quantity.
@@qsnexus633 Actually, you’d be much better off getting the 240W unit as these cheap Chinese transformer/power bricks are quite often somewhat, umm, optimistically rated, to say the least. And as was just mentioned, you can’t have too powerful a unit, as they’re switching power supplies, so, just as in a pc, even if one has a 1000W psu, if the pc is only drawing/in need of (for example) 246W, that’s all the psu will provide. I’ve got a watt meter, which shows Watts, Volts and Amps and coincidentally, I’ve got a Platinum rated 1000W psu in my pic and exactly what I just described is exactly what happens. The wheelbase is no different in this respect and because they have very lax quality control (at these kind of prices, one can’t expect too much), far better off sticking to a minimum of at least 240W, if not closer to 300W imho.
Pardon my uneducated questions, but I’m one of those who hates electricity and wires, so this stuff kinda scares me LoL. But I have a few questions if you all don’t mind me asking. Maybe others out there have similar questions and this will help them too. 1) A friend of mine made one with the Meanwell LRS-350-24 and says it works like a charm. My question is, are there any concerns with it being a 350W PSU? My chimp brain sees 180W for the Fanatec Boost Kit and automatically thinks, “Well, it seems like the DIY PSU is overpowering the CSL DD!”. Part of the reason I ask if perhaps the CSL DD is getting too much power is because he said he can’t run all the recommended FFB settings (AC, ACC, AMS2, RR) because it creates too much clipping and a rough feel. Where others are saying run 100%, he’s running at about 80%. For example, in ACC, the gain is set to 70, but the wheel setting for FFB is at 80 and the same goes for FEI. A FEI setting of any higher than 80 creates a ton of unnatural feeling vibrations through the wheelbase/wheel (McLaren, Esports F1 & WRC wheel tested). Again, my chimp brain wonders if the CSL DD is getting too much power if that’s possible with his Meanwell PSU. 2) Also, is there software or a way to actually test the Nm of torque that is being outputted? I tried his setup and to me, the difference in feel between 5Nm and 8Nm seems like more than 3Nm, but perhaps it’s just a placebo effect. I have a V2.5, which is supposed to be 8Nm and the CSL DD with the DIY PSU does feel like it’s providing more force than my V2.5 on the same settings. 3) With no handshake or logging between the PSU and the CSL DD, how would they know for sure that a DIY PSU was used and not their own? Oh and I saw this on Fanatec’s website in bold: *****Only the standard 90W power supply or the Boost Kit 180 can be used with this wheel base. The use of any other power supply will void the wheel base warranty, is potentially dangerous and can lead to serious injury or death.***** Thank you in advance all and happy racing!
Hello, and thanks for the detailed comment/questions. I'll start with the bolded part (Fanatec's disclaimer) first and proceed backwards from there: if I were "Fanatec', I'd write the same thing; absolves them of any liability in case of someone running 480V AC through the wheelbase, and at same time scaring people into buying an overpriced 24V/7.5A DC power supply from them! 😁👍 I'd also like to point you to the recent video of mine where I show a serious issue with a FANATEC power supply from a CSL Elite wheelbase (the EXACT same power supply as the CSL DD 180W Boost Kit version, except for the cable and connector) and thereby illustrate that even Fanatec's own power supplies aren't of particularly high quality!!! 3) RE: handshake ---> there is no handshake (that I know of) other than the difference between a 90W and 180W power supply, done through different pin layout. 2) RE: testing of actual N·m and feel of difference 5 N·m vs. 8 N·m ----> RON (a very good Austrian sim racing gear reviewer!!!) explained this phenomena of perceived strength difference like this (paraphrasing badly): he states that the first few N·m can be discarded, as they aren't actually perceived the same way. I forgot if this was 2 N·m or 3 N·m. Let's say 2.5 N·m: if you deduct 2.5 N·m from the 5 N·m (non-Boost-Kit CSL DD) and deduct the same first 2.5 N·m from 8 N·m (Boost-Kit CSL DD), you end up with a real, perceivable difference of 2.5 N·m vs. 5.5 N·m, which then means you FEEL the difference between the 8 N·m version vs. the 5 N·m version to be slightly MORE than DOUBLE!!! Sorry, I am doing a crappy job at explaining this, RON does it much better. Please check out his videos on the matter. Also, you CAN test actual N·m of the wheelbase, but it involves specialized instruments and/or setups. 1) Many run at less than 100% FFB; that's really not uncommon, and does NOT mean the wheelbase is being 'overpowered'! You can easily use a more powerful (more Amps, same 24V DC) power supply unit, and the CSL DD won't give you more than 8 N·m. Be slightly careful which power supply you use though; some LED power supplies have a special CC (constant current) mode that will activate to avoid over-driving LEDs; this is NOT a desired feature for a DD wheelbase!!!
@@jasonzbell 👍👍 th-cam.com/channels/hVMixs263HInGr504og2FA.html Just tried looking for the exact place where RON mentions the perceived feel, but couldn't find it. He has a few videos on the CSL DD, might have to watch them all! lol Tip ----> turn on Closed Captions for English!
Just ordered the 200w version of the LED driver you showed in option #5. Hopefully this works with the new DD Pro. I may have jumped the gun lol. Thanks for the tutorial.
@@Polymer my pre order is slated for March 14, I believe Fanatec is charging a premium to get it sooner. Kinda slimey business tactics. But I'll stick it to them by making my own power supply lol
Nice video! Just out of curiosity. Why is it that you wouldn't recommend using the third method permanently, but just for testing? Are there any potential risks or dangers involved? Thanks again for your help!
As mentioned, the information is based on pre-production models only, and those did NOT have any handshake (from what I can tell). Part number for the power supply units for existing CSL ELITE, and the pre-release CSL DD [BOOST KIT 180] share the EXACT same PSU (except for the connector): Endor6200-2400750-15C01 What they supply with production units come September 2021 is anyone's guess. If there is more to the PSU than what they pre-released, I'll be sure to update this video and its description.
It should be fine, even for extended use. I was a little concerned because it has an extra connection point = more connections is worse than few connections. It also can be simply pulled out, and thus is not very secure. But it should be fine.
Grea video thanks. I’ve bought a clubsport psu from eBay with the intention of connecting the 4 pin connector to use on a DD. Issue I have is I fully expected the Fanatec psu I bought from eBay to have 4 wires, 2 live and 2 negative. Problem is there is only 1 positive and 1 negative coming from the psu. What can I do?
You could still make it work, but you'd need to make two small jumper wires to get from one of the wires to the two connections on the MOLEX plug. It might end up quite messy looking, if you can even get it to work... Good luck!!! 👍👍
Thank you for the detailed solutions. These are excellent. For sulution #5 could you simply spice in the mobo extension cable instead of having to crimp your own pins for the molex connector?
It's recommended, but I am not so sure that it's a good idea to 'permanently' have so many connection points for the required 180W. The CSL Elite uses a 2.1mm pin to transmit the necessary power to the Elite wheelbase, but I reckon the CSL DD actually draws more power than the Elite. This connection is also not very secure: you can simply pull on the cable, and the connector pops out. Of course, this is all untested; once I'd have a CSL DD, I will test this method and check for potential connection issues, i.e. actual Amp draw, and temperature increase in the connections and wires. So, in summary; I'm just not 100% comfortable in recommending this solution as a permanent one right now.
@@Polymer so my thinking was that I was going to cut off the csl elite connector, and solder a 4pin molex onto it.. and use that permanently.. as you say though this is all speculation so far till we get our hands on them!
@@roadrunner9840 Ah, nice thinking there! Yeah, that would be a lot better, I think. But what about the CSL Elite then? I'm thinking of selling the Elite sooner rather than later, as its price surely will plummet? Or are you keeping the Elite as a backup?
@@Polymer yeah thinking of selling and seeing if I can pick up a psu possibly from a faulty unit (wishful thinking!) being without a wheel will suck, but then there is always flight sims in the mean time!
What do you think about cammus c5 and setting with stonger power supply like 180W (19v) normalny is 140W ( 19v, 7,3A) and now I saw that they even hange for 120w is this will work better ,is this might damage the wheel?
Do you not think Fanatec have predicted this and have a chipped power supply that tells the wheel if it's genuine (like Dell, Razor and other laptop manufatures have done in the past). The digital signal would be sent over the live cable in the four pin connector so knowning the number of pins doesn't help you know if any of these solutions will work. You need to see inside a CSL DD power supply or you need to plug your DIY solutions into the wheel before you know any of these will work. Fingers crossed they didn't :) (I ordered the 5nm too)
Yeah, we simply don't know right now. It appears they DIDN'T do this for the pre-production versions. The review embargo was lifted last week, so there are now proper reviews out there, but since most (all?) reviewers received the sample units from Fanatec and don't want to spoil that relationship, it's difficult to find someone willing to test all this. We'll just have to wait and see.... Fingers crossed here also! 🤞🤞
Excellent video, how did you recondition the LED 300W supply? Can I assume the pin rail inside has two unused pins that I can make another cable from, making the molex complete? Did you perhaps measure the maximum Amperage required by the DD..
Great skills and vid dude :) Don't suppose you'd know if it was possible to recreate something similar for the DD1/DD2 PSU? I've lost mine in a house move and don't really want to fork out the £130 Fanatec have quoted for a replacement.....
Cheers. I bet you could make your own (or buy an aftermarket one), but I'm afraid I know nothing about what the requirements would be. Good luck finding an alternative! £130? Sheesh!!!
Looking at some different components to replicate your build, many of the mini fit Jr connectors I see are rated at less than the 8-amp power supply in solution # 4 Is the extension you modified rated for that amperage? It looks robust enough for the job, but the smell of melting insulation, plastic and burned copper is something I’d rather avoid LOL! TIA
Well, since there's two 24V neg and two 24V pos, you can technically half each connection's amperage. Mini fit Jr should easily handle that. The connectors I bought off Amazon state "Terminal 9.0A Current - Maximum per". Just make sure you get/use 18 AWG (not 20 AWG or thinner!!) --- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLKSKVD
I was seriously contemplating to make one my own, but I tightened the desk clamp of my GT DD as tight as I could (even with the leverage knob) and it still slips off the table a little sometimes and than I need to push it really hard to get it back in position, I'm scared to tighten it even more because I heard some people had the T slot for the clamp broke (which isn't a regular t-slot) and I'm not sure if over tightening voids warranty if the clamp breaks, and as it's not mounted sturdy enough to my desk I'm thinking 8nm might make it come off completely one day... yeah I'm staying with 5nm until my rig is finished! First thing I'm buying is a solid rig and than I'm buying a 2nd hand car chair, as long as it has an adjustable backrest, and a seat slider.
@@haki0720 Limited to 8 NM, yes. There has been suggestions to use a PSU with higher voltage, but that would likely just make it non-functional/brake and not increase the torque. No one's tried it that I know of. Doesn't seem worth the risk really, since there's more powerful wheelbases out there. Just be happy with 8Nm! 👍
Absolutely usable for long term, yes. I was initially thinking option #3 might be temporary only, but since then I believe some have used even that permanently.
I received all the hardware to connect a 24volts 300 watt PS, I double checked the pin connector pin order. That is the aspect that scares me the most. To all who have tried, is it really worth it, I find 5nm strong enough, is 8nm just stronger or does it bring something else to the party?
Sorry for this late reply: have you already made the mod? Almost every reviewer I've watched says not to bother with the 5Nm 'version', and that the CSL DD is meant for 8Nm. Even on these comments, some have stated that the 5Nm CSL DD isn't really worth the upgrade - not more torque than the CSL Elite.
Would it be a problem if you will not have ferrite cylinder in your final design? What do you think about it? Also, can you cover the psu in solution 4? The exposed look of it is worrying a bit..
1) a ferrite ring wouldn't hurt, for sure! Certainly will reduce that high frequency interference.... 2) DO NOT cover the #4 PSU; it is designed to be open like that, presumably for heat dissipation; again: DO NOT COVER the #4 PSU!!!
Hello, good video! I have a couple of questions: Because you install two 24v cables, wouldn't that make a total of 48v ..? And how do you know in the four pins of the Molex where the positive and negative cables have to go without having the original 180w source to check this ..? Thanks a lot !
1) Rudimentary explanation: I am presuming that it's all wired as a PARALLEL CIRCUIT, meaning the voltage stays the same (V total = V1 = V2 ...) 2) Pin layout is taken from pre-production units (as seen in various 'first look' videos)
@@Polymer Exactly! Not only that, but with these cheapo transformer/power bricks, in the majority of cases, both the red wires will connect to the same terminal, likewise for the 2 black wires. So, generally they’re not even really in parallel, it’s essentially the same as having 1 thick wire and unravelling it to make it into 2 thinner wires. A somewhat similar concept was done with USB 3.0, in that even though there are 2 positive pins, there’s no such thing as a 10V USB connection as both the positive pins trace back to the same 5V input.
@@garamamed W = V * A, so 24 * 8 = 192W This should work fine - it's doesn't matter if it's more than 180W; it's even better in fact. just be careful of some LED drivers (not simple power supplies), as they tend to have a special 'constant current' feature that you DO NOT want for this application.
Ive just got mine i run it on custom PSU as you suggested works fine. is it possible to increase voltage to 30V instead of 24V to let it draw more power with added externall cooling in thus increase toruqe or is it limited by software.
Regarding 30V: We're not sure. As far as I know, no one has tried it yet. My guess is, there's over-volt protection built in, and it will shut off, but I do not know this for sure. Someone needs to try it to confirm or deny that this works: you? 😁
@@flubzorgaming Very true.👍 There would be ways to make this more difficult, but from what I can tell (at least for pre-production units reviewed here on YT), there doesn't seem to be anything particularly different or odd about the ENDOR6200 power supply/boost kit, and the ONLY difference to the CSL Elite & ClubSport v2.5 power supply appears to be the connector.
@@Polymer i really hope so! And for sure i ll come back to see if it works on a retail model... been very informative your video...now its time that will tell which workarounds make it and which wont
@@flubzorgaming Aye! At the very least it's a basis to work from *IF* there are more hurdles down the road. Like I mentioned, I pre-ordered the 5 N·m version, and then regretted that after watching a comparison between 5 N·m and 8 N·m. I am not opposed to buying the boost kit from Fanatec per se, I was just looking at alternative ways to get to 8 N·m. Let's hope it proves to be this simple! 👍👍👍
What could be the reason that I only see it say 6Nm on fanatec app after doin this method?it even changed to "boost kit" but when the slider is at 100% it only says 6..I thought it was supposed to be 8Nm! Am I losing power using an extension cord?
Not enough info to answer properly, sorry. "doin this method" is too vague. The CDL DD is either 5 N·m or 8 N·m depending on how the connection is wired, and the output capacity of the PSU.
@@Polymer yes thankfully....it def wasn't feeling right for awhile maybe after fanatec app updated maybe it switched it too linear..that sux I want ALL THE POWER NOT SOME LOL
What exactly is temporary about solution 3? Can i use that solution for a longer period of time? Thats my only option at the moment, so im curious about the drawbacks.
It should work fine, no problem. The thing is, the more connection points you have the more potential issues, and I wasn't 100% sure if this added 'adapter' was good enough as a 'permanent' solution. I believe many have already done this now though, and there's no issues, AFAIK.
Please inspect your FANATEC CSL Elite and/or ClubSport v2.5 power supply if you want to reuse it to power the CSL DD. I just noticed that mine is frayed at the strain relief! 🤔🤬 th-cam.com/video/jHPihHAAssM/w-d-xo.html I do NOT recommend you use the FANATEC CSL Elite power supply (for solution #3) any longer; you are better off buying a cheap (but quality) aftermarket power supply!
No, and it's a very good point/question! 👍 It's not easy to find someone with a unit, *and* that's willing to test this. It's not inconceivable (although highly unlikely) that production versions don't have the same wiring pattern. Will definitely update the description once tested & verified!
@@Polymer I’m actually very surprised that they don’t have any logic in there, (or at least some sort of proprietary connector) to stop people like us doing this, but then maybe most people will just pay the inflated pay cost, I actually have nothing against fanatec for pricing this way, as it gets Ed to the masses
I'd like to test it first. I am just not so sure that it's a good idea to 'permanently' have so many connection points for the required 180W. The CSL Elite uses a 2.1mm pin to transmit the necessary power to the Elite wheelbase, but I reckon the CSL DD actually draws more power than the Elite. This connection is also not very secure: you can simply pull on the cable, and the connector pops out. I'm just not 100% comfortable in recommending this solution as a permanent one right now, although it may very well be perfectly fine.
@@Polymer Ok thanks for the fast reply. Im have my csl dd since yesterday (Germany) and I am thinking about buying an old 180Watt from cs elite and change it for the 8NM use at the dd wheelbase.
@@fjs889 genau das war auch mein plan ;) aber finde mal so eins. www.ebay.de/itm/312110913488?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 guck mal. das hat die perfekten specs, man muss nur den stecker umlöten.
Not sure; be careful with LED drivers, as they usually have a CV and CC (constant current) 'function'. The one you mention has this also, and it's adjustable. You DON'T need or want constant current for the CSL DD, you want CV (constant voltage).
fanatec has used some protections or detectors that are able to void the warranty, how do you use a different power supply? As far as I know, this fanatec power supply is apparently an ordinary laptop power supply :)
No detection of power supply. It's just a fairly standard 24V/7.5A power supply. I wouldn't call it a 'ordinary laptop' supply though. laptops have all kinds of different PSUs.
@@Polymer of course, I meant power supplies from expensive laptops :) But it is probably the most sensible to use a branded power supply for a desktop computer :)
The overpriced upsell for this psu is just ridiculous. Fanatec should have just charged $20-$50 more (their additional cost would be maybe $10) and shipped it with the bigger psu to begin with. Not a good look for Fanatec.
Confirmed latest US batch to ship out early November has no pairing capabilities and any 24v 7.5A+ 180W+ PSU should work as long as wired correctly. I chose to use an enclosed IP67 24v 8.3A 200W LED Driver with a single 2 wire output lead that is UL/ETL/RoHS/etc listed. I did notice with the CSL DD that I get A LOT of EMI/RFI. My shifter would not calibrate with the CSL DD power wire cable managed in with the shifter RJ12 cable and wheel base data cable. This is not just my DIY PSU, but the Fanatec 5nm 90w power supply as well. I purchased some clip on ferrites in hopes they reduce any EMI/RFI. Knowing this now, if I were to DIY another power supply I would probably do it with shielded wiring.
Excellent info! Thanks very much. 👍👍👍
@@Polymer I reached out to Fanatec support and explained to them I am unable to calibrate my shifter with the CSL DD without a bunch of hoping and praying it will go through instead of being stuck on "SFT CAL." I received a reply within 24hrs that they will be sending me a replacement 200cm (6.5ft) RJ12 cable with ferrite cores already installed. I guess this is somewhat of an issue with CSL DD by reading through their forums. I have installed some clip on ferrites on my DIY PSU as well as the base 5nm 90w PSU and it has not fixed the "SFT CAL" issue. I'd recommend anyone making their own PSU to install multiple clip on ring type ferrites to input and output wiring, as well as reach out to support if you are using a Fanatec shifter wired to your wheel base via RJ12.
@@MaliciousMD got a link for the clip ons you used?
Enjoy the void warranty if anything goes haywire
Did anyone tried upping the voltage to 30-35V? I think that the Amazon psu has adjustable voltage.
Tested it with a MeanWell GST280A24-C6P 280W / 24V power supply, with the 4pin cable from your amazon link, just needed to change the male end to a Molex 46993-0610, and works as well, no soldering needed, looks clean.
hi, can you please describe your "recipe", I'm not sure I follow your steps... PSU has male connector (white one), if we unplug and replace it with MLX 46993-0610 it would make it female. the 4pin cable is malefemale, so if we plug it in it would make the exposed/final terminal female and that's not what we need.
@@gene_the_dev_42 you don't need to modify the cable of the PSU, you change the connector on the 4 pin cable , so 4 pins will be populated but the connector will match the PSU side
@@fulee9999 Thanks, now i get it. Though probably will have to go with 4-pin din PSU (FSP180 or GST220A24) and solder the wires to a female 4din plug. GST280 is 80+ eur here (FSP is 50) + Molex 469930610 is hard to find separately.
Is not getting to hot on that powerfull AC?
Number 3 is excellent 💪👍
Edit: after testing this over the weekend, number 3 works very well indeed. The only addition I made was to use a small piece of plastic to ‘brace’ the adapter, just to make sure the weight was on the cable rather than the connectors. So simple!
Can you post a video of it working?
hello good, great video, I like a lot, how's the steering wheel going with 8nm ??? You can tell the difference compared to 5nm, right ???? I think I'm going to opt for the 24v 200w source of option 3. I like it. hee, thank you very much
I've bought a used "INVACARE PMP180SF-14 K1" 180W 24V Power supply for 25€ from eBay and soldered a CPU ATX connector from an old ATX power supply onto it. Tripple checked the voltages on each pin so I don't brick my DD. Works like a charm!
I just bought the same PSU as a no brainer for 18€ used :D Now i'm wondering if there are just the 4 cables we need in the connector?
Also I cut off a 4 PIN CPU connector from a old PC PSU we have here at work. So theoretically I should be fine with just soldering those on?
@@Feggx Yes, just make sure you isolate + and - well, and wire them correctly of course.
@@Polymer Just came back from my neighbor who is an electrician :D The process was really simple for him as the PSU has just the 4 cables needed. Voltages on the pins are perfect but unfortunately I can't test it already because im in wave 2 and my DD is not here yet.
I'll report back once I have the DD and tested it.
But I can definitely recommend the Invacare PSU!
@@Polymer My CSL DD came in today and wooow just wow was the 8nm diy kit worth it!! It works like a charm 😍 A bit nervous plugging it in at first but holy moly is that crazy, definitely worth it over 5
Thanks for this. I got a 180w 7.5A led power supply from ebay and it works a charm. Just been for a quick hoon around the Nords' to test, and my hands and wrists are hurting from the ffb.
hahaha, awesome!!!
The wheel base is at a fair price but no way they expect people to pay full price for that power supply. Thanks for the video you saved a lot of people some money!
Thanks! (BTW: awesome username!! 👍👍👍)
Great video. I'm still probably going to simp for fanatec and buy the boost kit, but if this works, I'm sure we will see a good number of aftermarket/3rd party suppliers developing their own boost kits for much cheaper. This is a big win for the consumer!
except that you will void the warranty which sucks
@@sami-my1vi but how do they know that you used a different power supply?
@@tosi1887 I don't know for sure they can see, but Fanatec keeps track of all data from users.
The 5nm is good. The 8nm makes the DD FANTASTIC
My thoughts exactly, 150 bucks for a power brick I already own is a no-no for me. You'll probably have third party alternatives out before the first retail DD's ship :D
Tried it with FSP FSP180-AAAN1 180W 24V PSU, and a first wave production CSL DD and can confirm that it this indeed works.
Super!!! 👍👍👍
On eBay this one is U$31 incl. shipping (in US, "seller refurbished"). Is that what you used? www.ebay.com/itm/164269197495
Great to know, thanks. I've got one of these too, but not got the DD yet. Would be interested to know how you wired it. I was thinking I'd cut the 6 way connector off and solder onto a 4 pin cable.
@@Polymer not exactly, mine had the 4 pin connector
@@NickAronson I have the 4 pin version of the PSU, however there were only two lines inside the cable, so it's pretty straightforward ( edit: also I've cut off the connector and just soldered everything and then shrink wrapped it )
10/06/2023
works!!!!!!!!! Thank you very much for the information. use the second option, but with a 200w source.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
AWESOME!!! 👍👍👍
(Considering I made this video BEFORE the product was even released, and without ever owning one or even seeing one, I am very pleased it worked out so well!!!)
😱,😂👏👏👏👏👏
Right first of all thanks for the tip! I went for solution number 3 with a twist! I had two of the 90w power supply so I bought a non original csl elite power supply for 30€ and chop the connectors off and wired the 90w conector to the 180w (non original) power supply and works perfect!! I finish it all off with a heavy duty heat shrink tubing and it does feels very robust. Hope this help others too!
that's awesome info, if the CSL DD becomes a hit maybe you can build ready kits for this.
I'd buy one, great idea Fartbox Muncher!
There is one on eBay for sale like this
I've made psu from one which I bought. It is 24V and 8.3A. The CSL DD is working fine. The FFB feels much stronger and the overall feeling is much better. It cost me around 25$.
Very cool! 👍👍👍
Did you use the solution 3 from the video? Do you have any worries about barrel connection or something?
Does it matter if the PSU has a lot more than 180Watts? Will the CSL DD draw more than 180W?
@@High.on.Life_DnB no, I think I've seen it in this is other videos but more doesn't matter, only less. Device only asks for as much power as it needs. Picture your PC with 500W consumption but 700W PSU. The components in the pc won't get fried because of this, unless you change voltage needs in their own kernels.
I think that voltage must be the same but it just needs over 180W. I'm using 200 W PSU and the wheel is working fine.
Well thanks, mate! I bought an ALITOVE DC 24V 10A 240W off amazon (basically same thing) and works perfectly with my GT DD Pro.
Is it still working well for you? Mind sharing the link to the product so that I can get 8nm.
Hello, the PSU CSL Elite work fine with the CSL DD. The boost kit 180 is detected and the base has more power. Great video.
I understand that the 8Nm power supply from Fanatec is supposed to be a license fee, which is understandable. The main issue is that if the power supply goes bad out of warranty, you would have to buy the 150 euros power supply again which is utterly laughable. For that reason these guides are necessary.
Thanks. I went with the boost kit. I don't trust myself when working with electrical components and wiring.
Fair enough. Enjoy the 8 N·m!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for this. I've got the GT DD Pro on pre-order and went ahead and made my own boost kit with the $20 generic switching power supply. Ended up putting a 4-pin molex on the end of my 4-pin ATX extension, which went to 4 longer wires with fork/spade terminals on the ends to easily slide under the screw terminals of the PSU.
the Meanwell LRS350-24 is a commonly available one and usually for cheap, especially since they're often used in cheaper 3D printers so these should also be readily available
This worked for me as well. Night and day difference.
This is EXACTLY what I'll be doing with mine. I'll use an adapter for my CSL Elite PSU. That way, I know for sure that it'll work. I'm sure as hell NOT paying $150 for a $90 PSU that I already own.
Have u tried it already? I want to do it aswell but I do not want to hurt my warranty
@@j9h585 I have not purchased one yet. That may be months away.
You'll hurt your warranty regardless. And besides. Fanatec gear lasts for quite a while. Fundamentally, it won't be a "3rd party" issue since the PSU will still be a Fanatec one with the exact same specs. All that's different is the connection. And since CSL DDs are proving to be fairly reliable, I wouldn't sweat the warranty.
The only Fanatec item I've ever had to replace was a plastic potentiometer on my pedals. And that was 3 years after I bought it.
But why he told that this is just a temporary solution ?
I used method 3 and It worked for me with no issue. 8nm is incredible
Can you post a video of it working?
Nice work and nice tools! Thank you for the content. Subscribed to your channel because the intermission had me rolling. LOL
Confirmed working using Method #4! Used the same psu and cpu cable as linked and getting way more ffb now
Great news! 👍👍👍
Thank you for the vidéo, i have juste recived my csl dd and i used the solution number 4 and it cost me around 36 €
Fantastic! €36 is a lot better than ~€150!! :)
Great Video, My set of GT DD pro is coming in days. Definitely will try #3 or #5 and report result back here!!
Nice! 👍👍👍
Great work here.
Thanks! 👍👍👍
Fun fact, the CSL DD actually consumes about 90W peak in 8Nm mode, and 60W peak in in 5Nm mode. So you probably would be fine with just rewireing the 90W power supply that comes with the 5nm version.
Thanks for that! Did you measure this?
If the 8 N·m setting uses 90W peak, I'd NOT want to use a 90W power supply. Best leave some headroom. 180W sounds about right. MAYBE 120W-150W? 90W sounds MUCH too close to me....
@@Polymer Actually I remembered it wrong the 50W was the 8Nm setting, 5Nm was just 20W. There is a german guy who had reviewed the wheelbase with and without the boostkit and measured the power consumption: th-cam.com/video/X74_IXPE6hE/w-d-xo.html
Also remember this is the power consumption on the input side, while the 90/180W rating is for the output, so considering the efficiency losses you actually have some more room left. Also this is a wheelbase, so naturally you never will have a constant peak load but rather very short bursts of high load, and electrical power supplies easily can go twice the rated load for short periods of time, the only thing that happens is a bit more heat is generated which ultimately does not matter at all because of thermal hysteresis. The only thing that possible could fuck you up would be a fuse inside the power supply.
@@playerone6434 Wow, only 50W? Cool (literally! 😁).
Yeah, maybe someone SHOULD try the supplied 90W PSU then? That would definitely be an interesting exercise!
@@Polymer Waiting for someone to find a way to increase the torque the CSL DD can do, it stays ice cold at 8NM with an aftermarket 180w power supply I made..... Do we just push more amps??
@@monte0704 No, that won't work, at least not with just using a larger PSU. It's unknown what will happen if one were to increase the voltage (lets say to 30V), but my best guess is that the CSL DD will just shut off with over-voltage protection.
Fantastic video, this is very helpful and I will definitely give it a go. Thanks!! 👌🏼
I connected my CSL DD Pro directly to the mains and instantly got 150 Nm. My friend is typing this message while visiting me in hospital (I dislocated my shoulder and cracked my skull slamming into the table).
lol
Your Darwin Award is in the mail to the hospital! 😁
Great vid, I was thinking of doing exactly this, just needed to confirm it will work.
I would be careful with this. Fanatec just has to put in lets call it a Virgin chip and then something happens, they can say it is your fault and it gets expensiv.
Yeah; any major modification to pretty much any product usually voids the warranty. There's always a pro vs. con decision to be made: it the risk worth the benefit???
@@Polymer Glad i don't have to make this decision owning the big Brother ;)
@@testthepest6259 Hehehe! 👍👍👍👍
These aftermarket power boost kits are they worth it and safe to use because I’ve been thinking of using one instead of paying 150$ when the aftermarket costs 40$ just curious if they cause problems look forward to your input. Love your videos keep up the great work sir.
Fanatec could have sold the upgrade for 50 bucks and most likely still made money. Its a shame they do something great like make the CSL DD but then shaft you if you want to unlock the 8nm.
They could be sacrificing margins on the 5Nm version in order to get more entry-level customers to buy into the ecosystem where they can then profit off selling accessories and wheel rims. It's the same concept as console manufacturers selling the hardware at a loss in order to wrestle marketshare and make back the profits with software.
Selling a cheap 180W power brick for $150 does rub me the wrong way though, but fortunately for resourceful DIYers it's also potentially an avenue to get the full 8Nm performance for cheap.
Hei, I'm 2 years late since release of the video but maybe if you see this comment I would just like to ask if Meanwell RSP-200-24 would also work okay I heard that LRS work good but I couldn't find anything about the RSP. Thaks for this very helpful video.
I quickly looked at the specs and it seems okay, yes. What's interesting, is that it's about double the price than the LRS model. Also, it adds an active PFC Function, but I have no idea how that would interact with the CSL DD.
It may work, but I can't give you a definite answer; I'd personally go for the cheaper LRS one.
Confirmed working with aftermarket CSL Elite powerbrick. Used the barrels + 4pin cpu connector.
Can you post a video of it working?
You think you will be available for a SIMterview this weekend? Perhaps we can work out a time?
Let me send you an email....
great video, really really nice work! I have one question though: to which pin on the 4 pin ATX do I connect the negative terminal? is it the squared one or the other one?
Shown @2:56
a true hero
TH-cam deleted my comment.
I saw someone use Mealwell GST280A-C6P which has 6 PINS with 3 V+ and 3 V-, do i just use 2 V+ and 2 V- to connet to Molex 4-pin connector,for example, PIN1,3 to PIN1,4 PIN4,6 to PIN2,3.
Good question; I was wondering how they connect that too. If it were me I might take the three V+ and first go back to one wire, then split it from there again. So: take the three wires and do 3 ---> 1 ----> back to 2. Pretty messy though.
@@Polymer yeah,it will be pretty messy if do 3->1->2, maybe I will try Meanwell ELG-200-24A-3Y which is a C.V.+C.C. LED driver ,i am not sure if it will work well; or just try Meanwell LRS-200 like solution#4
@@lynzhang881 ***BE CAREFUL*** using CV/CC LED drivers, as they will reduce Voltage and maintain Amperage (switch automatically from CV to CC) and not work for the CSL DD.
@@Polymer This is what I worry about, therefore I will choose Meanwell LRS-200 now.
my csl dd will be here in a month i am willing to test the psu you have built.
Where are you located?
Hey Polymer, can you tell the crowd why you do not recommend to use the CSL Elite PSU? Is it just because of cost or also quality? Because I was thinking to go with Option #3 (but with another PSU that can be bought on Amazon for isntance
Yes, perfectly fine. Option #3 is okay; I was initially concerned about having two connection points, but it should be perfectly fine to use option #3.
As for the Fanatec CSL Elite PSU: I threw that in the garbage: th-cam.com/video/jHPihHAAssM/w-d-xo.html
@@Polymer thanks a lot mate
Tried also, Works!
GREAT news, thanks! Which version did you try?
@@Polymer Used an OMRON S8VK-C24024 PSU, bought the molex connector, let them put the pins on in the shop. Connected all the things at home, adjusted the output voltage with a multimeter, just in case, and connected them all. Night and Day difference
@@meelismeelis8709 Fantastic!!! 👍👍👍
Can't help but recognize the mat your using. Is it from a conveyor belt?
You have an EXCELLENT eye! 👍👍👍
Yes, it's indeed from a conveyor belt; I bought this short piece to fix a damaged flexible guard on a rotary hay rake, but never got to install it. Works well as a 'work mat'!! :)
For people that stumble upon this video for the CSL. Heres the booster model/part number itself: endor 6200- 2400750-15C01
Great video.
But
I'm shit scared of electricity, so I've sucked up the cost and purchased Fanatec official psu.
Great video.
Hahaha, awesome, and thanks. The option #2! :) 03:46 - #2 Fanatec Boost Kit 180
Great idea accept voids the warranty. Keep that in mind
Has been mentioned, yep, and I refer to it in the video. 👍
Many have stated that FANATEC would not know if the original or after-market PSU was used, as shipment for warranty repair would likely not involve the PSU. But it's a valid observation!
Great video! Would you not need to use a ferrite?
Does the 24V/200W 8A power supply, the $20 option, have any internal protection? I have read on the Amazon reviews for these power supplies which all appear to look basically the same across many China based sellers, that there is no internal protection. Thanks for pointing out some options even though we can't be sure if Fanatec will put a protection chip in to identify what PSU is connected. At least until around September 6th when they start to ship the first wave of pre-order units.
Protection: Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection
None of which I tested, though. Yeah, final test is with an actual production CSL DD in September at the earliest.
@@Polymergot it. The link you posted in your other video for the power supply, used in the two videos, takes me to a 24V10A model, which has "S-250-24" on the side sticker, that shows it is 240W and 10 amps, which differs from the one in your video which has "S-200-24" on the side sticker. I'm guessing both the 8A (which is 200W max output) and the 10A (which is 240W max output) models should work for this application. Or is there a preference there as to not supply too much wattage / amperage? Well done tutorial video by the way. Once we get a CSL DD wheel base that someone can try this on it would be worth revisiting it to see if it needs any tweaks or if another power supply is recommended over the 3rd party choices that were covered here. I take it you pre-ordered, which wave were you in?
@@qsnexus633 Oh, wow, they already stopped selling the 200W model? THAT didn't last long!! But yes, the 240W will/should work also. You can't go 'too big', only 'too small'. Here's the 200W one from another seller: www.amazon.com/Aiposen-Transformer-Security-Computer-Project/dp/B01B1PREK6
I pre-ordered, and was Wave 1 eligible, but was pre-occupied at the time, and didn't order until wave 2 or 3 I think. Delivery not due until November...
@@Polymerok thanks for letting us know that the larger 240W 10A model would also work, you just can't go smaller than 200W max output. I found one for $16.99 that is 240W 10A. And yes, I do recall your post on Reddit to do with you missing the first wave barely and had a November delivery estimate. I luckily during Wave 1 got in within 5 minutes of the product being listed in the wheel bases section of their website, to complete the checkout with the CSL DD 5nm package and a McLaren wheel. Then I noticed they removed the CSL DD from the page for awhile after that hehe. I like you could not stomach paying the $130 to get the 8nm extra, and then not even get the 5nm included. I like you and many others are pretty certain the difference in cost between the 90w and 180w PSU brick is no more than $10 to $20 USD. Probably under $10 in large quantity.
@@qsnexus633 Actually, you’d be much better off getting the 240W unit as these cheap Chinese transformer/power bricks are quite often somewhat, umm, optimistically rated, to say the least. And as was just mentioned, you can’t have too powerful a unit, as they’re switching power supplies, so, just as in a pc, even if one has a 1000W psu, if the pc is only drawing/in need of (for example) 246W, that’s all the psu will provide. I’ve got a watt meter, which shows Watts, Volts and Amps and coincidentally, I’ve got a Platinum rated 1000W psu in my pic and exactly what I just described is exactly what happens.
The wheelbase is no different in this respect and because they have very lax quality control (at these kind of prices, one can’t expect too much), far better off sticking to a minimum of at least 240W, if not closer to 300W imho.
Pardon my uneducated questions, but I’m one of those who hates electricity and wires, so this stuff kinda scares me LoL. But I have a few questions if you all don’t mind me asking. Maybe others out there have similar questions and this will help them too.
1) A friend of mine made one with the Meanwell LRS-350-24 and says it works like a charm. My question is, are there any concerns with it being a 350W PSU? My chimp brain sees 180W for the Fanatec Boost Kit and automatically thinks, “Well, it seems like the DIY PSU is overpowering the CSL DD!”. Part of the reason I ask if perhaps the CSL DD is getting too much power is because he said he can’t run all the recommended FFB settings (AC, ACC, AMS2, RR) because it creates too much clipping and a rough feel. Where others are saying run 100%, he’s running at about 80%. For example, in ACC, the gain is set to 70, but the wheel setting for FFB is at 80 and the same goes for FEI. A FEI setting of any higher than 80 creates a ton of unnatural feeling vibrations through the wheelbase/wheel (McLaren, Esports F1 & WRC wheel tested). Again, my chimp brain wonders if the CSL DD is getting too much power if that’s possible with his Meanwell PSU.
2) Also, is there software or a way to actually test the Nm of torque that is being outputted? I tried his setup and to me, the difference in feel between 5Nm and 8Nm seems like more than 3Nm, but perhaps it’s just a placebo effect. I have a V2.5, which is supposed to be 8Nm and the CSL DD with the DIY PSU does feel like it’s providing more force than my V2.5 on the same settings.
3) With no handshake or logging between the PSU and the CSL DD, how would they know for sure that a DIY PSU was used and not their own?
Oh and I saw this on Fanatec’s website in bold:
*****Only the standard 90W power supply or the Boost Kit 180 can be used with this wheel base. The use of any other power supply will void the wheel base warranty, is potentially dangerous and can lead to serious injury or death.*****
Thank you in advance all and happy racing!
Hello, and thanks for the detailed comment/questions. I'll start with the bolded part (Fanatec's disclaimer) first and proceed backwards from there: if I were "Fanatec', I'd write the same thing; absolves them of any liability in case of someone running 480V AC through the wheelbase, and at same time scaring people into buying an overpriced 24V/7.5A DC power supply from them! 😁👍
I'd also like to point you to the recent video of mine where I show a serious issue with a FANATEC power supply from a CSL Elite wheelbase (the EXACT same power supply as the CSL DD 180W Boost Kit version, except for the cable and connector) and thereby illustrate that even Fanatec's own power supplies aren't of particularly high quality!!!
3) RE: handshake ---> there is no handshake (that I know of) other than the difference between a 90W and 180W power supply, done through different pin layout.
2) RE: testing of actual N·m and feel of difference 5 N·m vs. 8 N·m ----> RON (a very good Austrian sim racing gear reviewer!!!) explained this phenomena of perceived strength difference like this (paraphrasing badly): he states that the first few N·m can be discarded, as they aren't actually perceived the same way. I forgot if this was 2 N·m or 3 N·m. Let's say 2.5 N·m: if you deduct 2.5 N·m from the 5 N·m (non-Boost-Kit CSL DD) and deduct the same first 2.5 N·m from 8 N·m (Boost-Kit CSL DD), you end up with a real, perceivable difference of 2.5 N·m vs. 5.5 N·m, which then means you FEEL the difference between the 8 N·m version vs. the 5 N·m version to be slightly MORE than DOUBLE!!! Sorry, I am doing a crappy job at explaining this, RON does it much better. Please check out his videos on the matter.
Also, you CAN test actual N·m of the wheelbase, but it involves specialized instruments and/or setups.
1) Many run at less than 100% FFB; that's really not uncommon, and does NOT mean the wheelbase is being 'overpowered'! You can easily use a more powerful (more Amps, same 24V DC) power supply unit, and the CSL DD won't give you more than 8 N·m. Be slightly careful which power supply you use though; some LED power supplies have a special CC (constant current) mode that will activate to avoid over-driving LEDs; this is NOT a desired feature for a DD wheelbase!!!
@@Polymer Awesome response and information! Thank you! I’ll go watch his video now. 👍
@@jasonzbell 👍👍 th-cam.com/channels/hVMixs263HInGr504og2FA.html
Just tried looking for the exact place where RON mentions the perceived feel, but couldn't find it. He has a few videos on the CSL DD, might have to watch them all! lol
Tip ----> turn on Closed Captions for English!
Just ordered the 200w version of the LED driver you showed in option #5. Hopefully this works with the new DD Pro. I may have jumped the gun lol. Thanks for the tutorial.
Congrats, can't see why it wouldn't work; do you know if has the same connector? I haven't been keeping up with the Pro...
@@Polymer from the photos I've seen it looks to be identical. Should be good!
@@pdubbs128 cool, yeah, they almost certainly are using all the same internals - good to go! (When are you getting the DD Pro?)
@@Polymer my pre order is slated for March 14, I believe Fanatec is charging a premium to get it sooner. Kinda slimey business tactics. But I'll stick it to them by making my own power supply lol
@@pdubbs128 Hehehe!
And yeah, the pay-more-and-get-it-sooner seemed like a slimy money grab for sure!
Nice video! Just out of curiosity. Why is it that you wouldn't recommend using the third method permanently, but just for testing? Are there any potential risks or dangers involved? Thanks again for your help!
Thanks, Bro. You gave me a perfect information.
Cheers, you're welcome. 👍
You’re assuming that there isn’t a handshake that happens with the new CSL DD power supply. I’d be very surprised if Fanatec doesn’t do this.
As mentioned, the information is based on pre-production models only, and those did NOT have any handshake (from what I can tell).
Part number for the power supply units for existing CSL ELITE, and the pre-release CSL DD [BOOST KIT 180] share the EXACT same PSU (except for the connector): Endor6200-2400750-15C01
What they supply with production units come September 2021 is anyone's guess. If there is more to the PSU than what they pre-released, I'll be sure to update this video and its description.
@@Polymer So you got your hands on the pre-production model?
HOW? there are only power cables.... No data.
@@Justdigit2 you can absolutely transmit data over power cables.
@@Tempest261 yeah.... But i don't count on it.
Works a 300w Power supply from logitech g pro dd i have 1 Power supply and ordered a fanatec csl dd with 5nm
Why do you not recommend the 3rd solution as a permanent one? I've tried it out and it works perfectly but I'm scared it's not going to last long.
It should be fine, even for extended use. I was a little concerned because it has an extra connection point = more connections is worse than few connections. It also can be simply pulled out, and thus is not very secure. But it should be fine.
@@Polymer alright thanks for the reply. I added some extra heat strink tubing around the adapter itself so it sticks better together.
*Sweet I know some will do a PU Mod*
*Great Job*👌
Grea video thanks. I’ve bought a clubsport psu from eBay with the intention of connecting the 4 pin connector to use on a DD. Issue I have is I fully expected the Fanatec psu I bought from eBay to have 4 wires, 2 live and 2 negative. Problem is there is only 1 positive and 1 negative coming from the psu. What can I do?
You could still make it work, but you'd need to make two small jumper wires to get from one of the wires to the two connections on the MOLEX plug. It might end up quite messy looking, if you can even get it to work...
Good luck!!! 👍👍
@@Polymer thanks for the advice 👍
Thank you for the detailed solutions. These are excellent. For sulution #5 could you simply spice in the mobo extension cable instead of having to crimp your own pins for the molex connector?
Yes, absolutely. Not sure it's going to end up pretty though. Functional? You bet!
cani ask why the adapter method for an existing CSL elite PSU isn't recommended?
It's recommended, but I am not so sure that it's a good idea to 'permanently' have so many connection points for the required 180W. The CSL Elite uses a 2.1mm pin to transmit the necessary power to the Elite wheelbase, but I reckon the CSL DD actually draws more power than the Elite. This connection is also not very secure: you can simply pull on the cable, and the connector pops out.
Of course, this is all untested; once I'd have a CSL DD, I will test this method and check for potential connection issues, i.e. actual Amp draw, and temperature increase in the connections and wires. So, in summary; I'm just not 100% comfortable in recommending this solution as a permanent one right now.
@@Polymer so my thinking was that I was going to cut off the csl elite connector, and solder a 4pin molex onto it.. and use that permanently.. as you say though this is all speculation so far till we get our hands on them!
@@roadrunner9840 Ah, nice thinking there! Yeah, that would be a lot better, I think. But what about the CSL Elite then? I'm thinking of selling the Elite sooner rather than later, as its price surely will plummet? Or are you keeping the Elite as a backup?
@@Polymer yeah thinking of selling and seeing if I can pick up a psu possibly from a faulty unit (wishful thinking!) being without a wheel will suck, but then there is always flight sims in the mean time!
What do you think about cammus c5 and setting with stonger power supply like 180W (19v) normalny is 140W ( 19v, 7,3A) and now I saw that they even hange for 120w is this will work better ,is this might damage the wheel?
Do you not think Fanatec have predicted this and have a chipped power supply that tells the wheel if it's genuine (like Dell, Razor and other laptop manufatures have done in the past). The digital signal would be sent over the live cable in the four pin connector so knowning the number of pins doesn't help you know if any of these solutions will work. You need to see inside a CSL DD power supply or you need to plug your DIY solutions into the wheel before you know any of these will work.
Fingers crossed they didn't :) (I ordered the 5nm too)
Yeah, we simply don't know right now. It appears they DIDN'T do this for the pre-production versions. The review embargo was lifted last week, so there are now proper reviews out there, but since most (all?) reviewers received the sample units from Fanatec and don't want to spoil that relationship, it's difficult to find someone willing to test all this. We'll just have to wait and see.... Fingers crossed here also! 🤞🤞
Excellent video, how did you recondition the LED 300W supply? Can I assume the pin rail inside has two unused pins that I can make another cable from, making the molex complete? Did you perhaps measure the maximum Amperage required by the DD..
Nevermind I found out. Thanks again.
@@tompat9166 I didn't find out, can you explain? If my PSU has just 1 red-black pair, how to correctly connect it to 4-pin one?
Great skills and vid dude :) Don't suppose you'd know if it was possible to recreate something similar for the DD1/DD2 PSU? I've lost mine in a house move and don't really want to fork out the £130 Fanatec have quoted for a replacement.....
Cheers. I bet you could make your own (or buy an aftermarket one), but I'm afraid I know nothing about what the requirements would be.
Good luck finding an alternative!
£130? Sheesh!!!
Did you find any solution? My DD2 PSU just died. :(
Looking at some different components to replicate your build, many of the mini fit Jr connectors I see are rated at less than the 8-amp power supply in solution # 4
Is the extension you modified rated for that amperage? It looks robust enough for the job, but the smell of melting insulation, plastic and burned copper is something I’d rather avoid LOL!
TIA
Well, since there's two 24V neg and two 24V pos, you can technically half each connection's amperage. Mini fit Jr should easily handle that. The connectors I bought off Amazon state "Terminal 9.0A Current - Maximum per". Just make sure you get/use 18 AWG (not 20 AWG or thinner!!) --- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLKSKVD
@@Polymer Thanks
Going to attempt #5, really excited. Should I worry if a psu has 47-63hz input instead on 50-60?
47-63hz input instead of 50-60hz is an even bigger range, i.e. an even better solution.👍
@@Polymer Tested and working, thanks alot!
@@timothe221 You're welcome: awesome to hear of another success story! Glad it worked out for you.
Thanks! This will save me some money :)
I was seriously contemplating to make one my own, but I tightened the desk clamp of my GT DD as tight as I could (even with the leverage knob) and it still slips off the table a little sometimes and than I need to push it really hard to get it back in position, I'm scared to tighten it even more because I heard some people had the T slot for the clamp broke (which isn't a regular t-slot) and I'm not sure if over tightening voids warranty if the clamp breaks, and as it's not mounted sturdy enough to my desk I'm thinking 8nm might make it come off completely one day... yeah I'm staying with 5nm until my rig is finished!
First thing I'm buying is a solid rig and than I'm buying a 2nd hand car chair, as long as it has an adjustable backrest, and a seat slider.
My PSU can't go over 23.5v, the wheel run normally for me. Do you think i get less nm cause of the low voltage ? thx
Hey there. Great video! I wonder if 300W PSU is safe to use? (Solution #5) The Fanatec official one is 180W. Thank you!
Yes, perfectly fine. Make sure it's 24V DC, and isn't a LED driver, but a 'standard' PSU.
Does it make any difference using a 200 or 300w psu? The dd only detects on second + pin positiv and switches to 8nm?
Yes, it detects the second + pin and switches to 8Nm. if you use a 200W supply make sure it actually outputs 200W though.
@@Polymer Thanks for quick reply.
But the DD is limited to 8NM? No Chance to tweak more than 8NM?
@@haki0720 Limited to 8 NM, yes.
There has been suggestions to use a PSU with higher voltage, but that would likely just make it non-functional/brake and not increase the torque. No one's tried it that I know of. Doesn't seem worth the risk really, since there's more powerful wheelbases out there.
Just be happy with 8Nm! 👍
@@Polymer yes, youre right. Thanks
The 4th option with the 300 watts power supply. Is this a permanent option or you don't recommend it for long term usage?
Absolutely usable for long term, yes. I was initially thinking option #3 might be temporary only, but since then I believe some have used even that permanently.
#5 Looks great but inShareplus also offers a 200W 24V DC 8.3A version for a little less cash. Would that work just as well?
Any luck with that? Mine doesn't get the full 8NM power so perhaps it can't output the full 7.5A?
Soo is this confirmed that the wires are properly wired?
I received all the hardware to connect a 24volts 300 watt PS, I double checked the pin connector pin order. That is the aspect that scares me the most.
To all who have tried, is it really worth it, I find 5nm strong enough, is 8nm just stronger or does it bring something else to the party?
Sorry for this late reply: have you already made the mod?
Almost every reviewer I've watched says not to bother with the 5Nm 'version', and that the CSL DD is meant for 8Nm. Even on these comments, some have stated that the 5Nm CSL DD isn't really worth the upgrade - not more torque than the CSL Elite.
Why do you think the clubsport psu with the adapter is a temporary solution ?
Wondering I assume you use the clubsport with the adapter rather than the 300w?
Either or will work.
Would it be a problem if you will not have ferrite cylinder in your final design? What do you think about it?
Also, can you cover the psu in solution 4? The exposed look of it is worrying a bit..
1) a ferrite ring wouldn't hurt, for sure! Certainly will reduce that high frequency interference....
2) DO NOT cover the #4 PSU; it is designed to be open like that, presumably for heat dissipation; again: DO NOT COVER the #4 PSU!!!
Can't wait to see the final verdict.
What game is this @1:50?
That's *BeamNG* (---> FreeRoam --> Baja Hills) 👍
I wish I’ve seen this sooner
So, you bought the power supply from Fanatec, I take it? Sorry to hear, but at least you have a nice 8NM DD wheelbase!
legend
Hello, good video! I have a couple of questions: Because you install two 24v cables, wouldn't that make a total of 48v ..? And how do you know in the four pins of the Molex where the positive and negative cables have to go without having the original 180w source to check this ..?
Thanks a lot !
1) Rudimentary explanation: I am presuming that it's all wired as a PARALLEL CIRCUIT, meaning the voltage stays the same (V total = V1 = V2 ...)
2) Pin layout is taken from pre-production units (as seen in various 'first look' videos)
@@Polymer Exactly! Not only that, but with these cheapo transformer/power bricks, in the majority of cases, both the red wires will connect to the same terminal, likewise for the 2 black wires. So, generally they’re not even really in parallel, it’s essentially the same as having 1 thick wire and unravelling it to make it into 2 thinner wires.
A somewhat similar concept was done with USB 3.0, in that even though there are 2 positive pins, there’s no such thing as a 10V USB connection as both the positive pins trace back to the same 5V input.
Thanks for the very helpful video!
At 7:42 you use a part. What is it called?
Those are wire ferrules. I am using a double one here (two wires into one ferrule): www.mcmaster.com/wire-ferrules/insulated-wire-ferrules/
@@Polymer I found the power supply. It is not written how many watts it is, only at the output 24V 8.0A how to determine how many n watts
@@garamamed W = V * A, so 24 * 8 = 192W
This should work fine - it's doesn't matter if it's more than 180W; it's even better in fact. just be careful of some LED drivers (not simple power supplies), as they tend to have a special 'constant current' feature that you DO NOT want for this application.
@@Polymer Thank you very much :-)
Great solution . Is there a way to hook second 24V100W supply in parallel and get 200W total ?
Technically I guess that would work [sort of], but I'd NOT go that route. Seems unnecessarily complicated, and prone to problems.
Love it geat :)
Fanatec 0
Polymer 1
Good work man!!
Ive just got mine i run it on custom PSU as you suggested works fine. is it possible to increase voltage to 30V instead of 24V to let it draw more power with added externall cooling in thus increase toruqe or is it limited by software.
Regarding 30V: We're not sure. As far as I know, no one has tried it yet. My guess is, there's over-volt protection built in, and it will shut off, but I do not know this for sure.
Someone needs to try it to confirm or deny that this works: you? 😁
Pretty much guessing if it will work
NOT.ROCKET.SCIENCE. 🤔
@@Polymer if they add a wheel base recognition / protection it will be 😉
@@flubzorgaming Very true.👍
There would be ways to make this more difficult, but from what I can tell (at least for pre-production units reviewed here on YT), there doesn't seem to be anything particularly different or odd about the ENDOR6200 power supply/boost kit, and the ONLY difference to the CSL Elite & ClubSport v2.5 power supply appears to be the connector.
@@Polymer i really hope so! And for sure i ll come back to see if it works on a retail model... been very informative your video...now its time that will tell which workarounds make it and which wont
@@flubzorgaming Aye! At the very least it's a basis to work from *IF* there are more hurdles down the road. Like I mentioned, I pre-ordered the 5 N·m version, and then regretted that after watching a comparison between 5 N·m and 8 N·m. I am not opposed to buying the boost kit from Fanatec per se, I was just looking at alternative ways to get to 8 N·m. Let's hope it proves to be this simple! 👍👍👍
What could be the reason that I only see it say 6Nm on fanatec app after doin this method?it even changed to "boost kit" but when the slider is at 100% it only says 6..I thought it was supposed to be 8Nm! Am I losing power using an extension cord?
Not enough info to answer properly, sorry. "doin this method" is too vague.
The CDL DD is either 5 N·m or 8 N·m depending on how the connection is wired, and the output capacity of the PSU.
@@Polymer nevermind apparently there's a toggle switch for linear and peak idk how it got switched to linear but thats why it said only 6Nm not 8Nm
@@dctalon82 Oh, cool. So you're getting the full 8 N·m now? Nice!
@@Polymer yes thankfully....it def wasn't feeling right for awhile maybe after fanatec app updated maybe it switched it too linear..that sux I want ALL THE POWER NOT SOME LOL
@@dctalon82 Awesome!
What exactly is temporary about solution 3? Can i use that solution for a longer period of time? Thats my only option at the moment, so im curious about the drawbacks.
It should work fine, no problem. The thing is, the more connection points you have the more potential issues, and I wasn't 100% sure if this added 'adapter' was good enough as a 'permanent' solution. I believe many have already done this now though, and there's no issues, AFAIK.
Please inspect your FANATEC CSL Elite and/or ClubSport v2.5 power supply if you want to reuse it to power the CSL DD. I just noticed that mine is frayed at the strain relief! 🤔🤬
th-cam.com/video/jHPihHAAssM/w-d-xo.html
I do NOT recommend you use the FANATEC CSL Elite power supply (for solution #3) any longer; you are better off buying a cheap (but quality) aftermarket power supply!
Straight forward but have you tested them?
No, and it's a very good point/question! 👍
It's not easy to find someone with a unit, *and* that's willing to test this. It's not inconceivable (although highly unlikely) that production versions don't have the same wiring pattern. Will definitely update the description once tested & verified!
@@Polymer I’m actually very surprised that they don’t have any logic in there, (or at least some sort of proprietary connector) to stop people like us doing this, but then maybe most people will just pay the inflated pay cost, I actually have nothing against fanatec for pricing this way, as it gets Ed to the masses
@@roadrunner9840 we don't know yet if they will or not.
I found 24v 200w power units that look the same but instead of the negative terminals it says 'com'. What does that mean?
COM is short for [circuit] COMMON, and in a DC circuit would almost always be the NEGATIVE terminal.
Why is the Adapter Solution only for temporary use?
I'd like to test it first. I am just not so sure that it's a good idea to 'permanently' have so many connection points for the required 180W. The CSL Elite uses a 2.1mm pin to transmit the necessary power to the Elite wheelbase, but I reckon the CSL DD actually draws more power than the Elite. This connection is also not very secure: you can simply pull on the cable, and the connector pops out.
I'm just not 100% comfortable in recommending this solution as a permanent one right now, although it may very well be perfectly fine.
@@Polymer Ok thanks for the fast reply. Im have my csl dd since yesterday (Germany) and I am thinking about buying an old 180Watt from cs elite and change it for the 8NM use at the dd wheelbase.
@@fjs889 That would be AWESOME! We're all very interested in finding out if this will work 👍 ...or not 👎
@@fjs889 genau das war auch mein plan ;) aber finde mal so eins. www.ebay.de/itm/312110913488?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 guck mal. das hat die perfekten specs, man muss nur den stecker umlöten.
Nicht schlecht. Frage ist: hat das Kabel wirklich 4 Draehte, oder ist der 4-polige Stecker einfach von 2 geloetet? Ansonsten: Nice Find!!!
can i use a Meanwell HLG-320H 24V. I believe its a constant voltage which is 24v dc 320 watts 13.34 amps
Not sure; be careful with LED drivers, as they usually have a CV and CC (constant current) 'function'. The one you mention has this also, and it's adjustable. You DON'T need or want constant current for the CSL DD, you want CV (constant voltage).
fanatec has used some protections or detectors that are able to void the warranty, how do you use a different power supply?
As far as I know, this fanatec power supply is apparently an ordinary laptop power supply :)
No detection of power supply. It's just a fairly standard 24V/7.5A power supply.
I wouldn't call it a 'ordinary laptop' supply though. laptops have all kinds of different PSUs.
@@Polymer of course, I meant power supplies from expensive laptops :) But it is probably the most sensible to use a branded power supply for a desktop computer :)
The overpriced upsell for this psu is just ridiculous. Fanatec should have just charged $20-$50 more (their additional cost would be maybe $10) and shipped it with the bigger psu to begin with. Not a good look for Fanatec.
Does the CSW power supply also use the same 2.1mm x 5.5mm connector as shown for the CSL elite power supply?
Not sure; I know the PSU is the same though. Connector might be the same, or different, maybe someone with a CSW can chime in...
@@Polymer all good, was just informed that's it's a 2.1mm jack - so same as what you've shown in the video. Thanks mate!
Can someone measure the real amp used with power meter or clamp? Would 150W24V be enough from MW power supply?
RON reports 20W for 4.7Nm (5Nm), and 51W for 8.8Nm (8Nm). Not sure if accurate though. th-cam.com/video/X74_IXPE6hE/w-d-xo.html
Is there any way to get a bit more power, say up to 10nm out of the CSL DD by feeding it a bit more power?
No, won't work. At least no one has tried and lived to tell the tale! :)
and just out of curiosity, how do you rate this database is doing well?
Sorry, don't understand the question.