On the DCC concepts website you can find a diagram specifically for wiring up the peco 3-way turnout so the frogs work by linking them across the point motors. I was thinking of using one myself to save some space, but in the end went with standard turnouts as I preferred the aesthetic. I really enjoy the cable management aspect of your work, so many layouts look like birds nests and you have done a great job putting thought into the neatness of the underside of the layout as well as the top!
Hi there David - I know this is an old video but how did you go about cutting the excess steel wire (that pokes up through the point and physically operates it) to size once you’d installed the motor? I’m told I will ruin track cutters if I use those.
Morning David, Another helpful and interesting video. What would happen if you didn't remove the spring on the point, would it impair the movement of the point motor. Chris
I did some research on it before I bought the motors. For one it stops the smooth constant slow motion which is more realistic than the clicking of the sprung point. But also apparently dcc concepts did testing with thousands of operations of a single point and found the point itself broke before the motor if they left the spring in, but continued on for thousands of cycles without it.
Nice video David wireing is not really my strong point on model railways. Are those point motors expensive and good to see a train running on the layout too.- Nicholas.
Thank you Nicholas. The point motors are about £23 each but I paid £130 for a six pack. They're reasonably priced for a compact slow action point Motor, with sound deadening and dcc decoder built in.
On the DCC concepts website you can find a diagram specifically for wiring up the peco 3-way turnout so the frogs work by linking them across the point motors. I was thinking of using one myself to save some space, but in the end went with standard turnouts as I preferred the aesthetic. I really enjoy the cable management aspect of your work, so many layouts look like birds nests and you have done a great job putting thought into the neatness of the underside of the layout as well as the top!
Very informative and enjoyable.
Like the cable management,
Hi there David - I know this is an old video but how did you go about cutting the excess steel wire (that pokes up through the point and physically operates it) to size once you’d installed the motor?
I’m told I will ruin track cutters if I use those.
@@dj_efk I used a rotary tool. Dremel etc. Although a mini hacksaw blade should do
Hi.. what size wire are you using for the droppers and frogs please?
Great video, just starting out myself, where did you get the insulated busbar links for your connector strip/terminals please?
hi there , theyre from amazon ill find a link for you
Morning David, Another helpful and interesting video. What would happen if you didn't remove the spring on the point, would it impair the movement of the point motor. Chris
I did some research on it before I bought the motors. For one it stops the smooth constant slow motion which is more realistic than the clicking of the sprung point. But also apparently dcc concepts did testing with thousands of operations of a single point and found the point itself broke before the motor if they left the spring in, but continued on for thousands of cycles without it.
@@HorsehayRailwayModeller Thank you for the information, that makes it all clear now. Chris
Nice video David wireing is not really my strong point on model railways. Are those point motors expensive and good to see a train running on the layout too.- Nicholas.
Thank you Nicholas. The point motors are about £23 each but I paid £130 for a six pack. They're reasonably priced for a compact slow action point Motor, with sound deadening and dcc decoder built in.
I was lost when you activated the frogs. Should point to the switch your testing. Didn't see a thing.
Like your very neat wiring you would have a fit if you could see mine! 😃
Cheers mate, there's a reason I don't often show underneath my big layout 😂