2 failures, the first lost the tappet and it wasn’t replaced, when the new cover went on, as there’s no tappet there now, but the debris from that failure must’ve been cleaned out. The second failure happened with the new cover on and maybe looks like the chain failed and got bunched up and jammed. From the fact that the first cover had a hole punched out near the pump and the second cover has wear marks in the same area, it say that the chain was compromised in the first failure, and then became the weak point for the second failure. Very interesting, keep up the great work👏
seems to me that its the timing chain tensioner, not enough metal in the oil pan to be ims, plus you might be able to look at the shaft from that view.
Hi Aaron. Awesome videos. Your doing great work for a do it yourself tech. Research is the key. Looking like a total tear down is needed. If the engine block and the cylinder heads are good. You are in good shape. I would recommend you check the ims bearing if you decide to do a engine rebuild. Good luck
OMG... I may have to revise my prediction that it is not the IMS bearing. A loose IMSB would explain the slack in the chain on bank 1. That is an engine that normally has the single row IMSB. Off with the transmission to have a look!
Isnt the purpose of the cam locking tool to ensure the cam shafts remain positioned/timed correctly relatively to each other if the timing chain is removed and then re-installed? If you're going to tear it all down and remove the timing chains and the camshafts, it doesnt really matter since youre going to have to re-index (?) (not sure "re-index" is the correct technical term) them anyway.
+george louie I think it is miss-described most of the time. It’s really a cam timing tool. The cam locking tool goes on the inside of the cam cover to hold them in place. Yes, the timing tool is just for that… Timing. But if you’re going to remove the chain or cams, then you have to take that off and re-time anyway.
That last cylinder looked like it had at least one bent valve and once the valve was stuck down I would guess the lifter was liberated so it's probably somewhere in that engine! It wasn't the cause though, it was one of the consequences. It looks like the chain either failed (unlikely) or the IMS did. The adventuire continues! Good luck!
+David Shaw that’s what I was thinking originally too, but now that I can see down to the intermediate shaft, from the angle, I am viewing it looks OK…
@@HelpMeDIY interesting… I guess maybe the timing chain just snapped? Maybe the tensioning system wasn’t doing the right thing. If you end up doing an engine swap, you should put a bigger 996 3.4 or 3.6 in it.
@Help Me DIY Exactly. And from what I can see in this particular video, the chain tensioner guide rail is MISSING? The fellow who owned the car before you and tried to fix it either didn't realize it was missing or forgot to install one? Good thing he didn't get it started!!! LOL
I'll guess that the lifter failed and the debris entered the oil scavenge pump on that bank. The pump failed, and when they do, they fail catastrophically. A hole in the valve cover is a primary symptom of an oil pump failure. The forward hole in the cam cover may have been from the missing valve lifter lid. It ought to be in there somewhere,... or exited the engine through the hole...
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2 failures, the first lost the tappet and it wasn’t replaced, when the new cover went on, as there’s no tappet there now, but the debris from that failure must’ve been cleaned out. The second failure happened with the new cover on and maybe looks like the chain failed and got bunched up and jammed. From the fact that the first cover had a hole punched out near the pump and the second cover has wear marks in the same area, it say that the chain was compromised in the first failure, and then became the weak point for the second failure.
Very interesting, keep up the great work👏
+John Nickson 😎🍻
I think so, too 👍
Waiting for the next video
+super saiyan in the works…
The valves follow the practice that there's no second chance to make a first impression... on the piston.
+Rob Emslie 😂
Thanks! super interesting.
+@johnhandley4803 thank you!!! 🙏 🍻
I'm voting for chain tensioner.
+John Adams 👍
Here we go 🙏
+Iain Mcglynn 😎🍿🍻
seems to me that its the timing chain tensioner, not enough metal in the oil pan to be ims, plus you might be able to look at the shaft from that view.
+Matthew first time ever seeing it, but yea I can see a little of it and from my untrained eye it looks fine
Hi Aaron. Awesome videos. Your doing great work for a do it yourself tech. Research is the key. Looking like a total tear down is needed. If the engine block and the cylinder heads are good. You are in good shape.
I would recommend you check the ims bearing if you decide to do a engine rebuild.
Good luck
+Phillip J Lynch appreciate it, thank you!
OMG... I may have to revise my prediction that it is not the IMS bearing. A loose IMSB would explain the slack in the chain on bank 1. That is an engine that normally has the single row IMSB. Off with the transmission to have a look!
+Grant Hargrave easier said than done, as you will see…
Fun to watch….I would not be trying this at home.🤓👍
+Bob Fognozzle 🐓
Aaron you should take the gearbox off to see the ims it was either the ims or a chain that failed
Well…. Ran into a little snag there 😆
Great video 👍👍
+Darren Jones thanks! 🍻
Isnt the purpose of the cam locking tool to ensure the cam shafts remain positioned/timed correctly relatively to each other if the timing chain is removed and then re-installed? If you're going to tear it all down and remove the timing chains and the camshafts, it doesnt really matter since youre going to have to re-index (?) (not sure "re-index" is the correct technical term) them anyway.
To add, If the cams are not installed correctly timed/"indexed" to each other, they could break since they are working against each other..
+george louie I think it is miss-described most of the time. It’s really a cam timing tool. The cam locking tool goes on the inside of the cam cover to hold them in place. Yes, the timing tool is just for that… Timing. But if you’re going to remove the chain or cams, then you have to take that off and re-time anyway.
+george louie being out of time is always a bad thing lol
That last cylinder looked like it had at least one bent valve and once the valve was stuck down I would guess the lifter was liberated so it's probably somewhere in that engine! It wasn't the cause though, it was one of the consequences. It looks like the chain either failed (unlikely) or the IMS did. The adventuire continues! Good luck!
+JT JOMO or maybe the chain guides… 😉
I would think if it was the IMS, there would be alot more metal shavings and debris in the oil sump.
Man I hate it when the tip snaps off the screwdriver! Lost many a trusty tool to this (and many cheap tools too).
+GaminGit 😥
This might be an example of ims failure...
+David Shaw that’s what I was thinking originally too, but now that I can see down to the intermediate shaft, from the angle, I am viewing it looks OK…
@@HelpMeDIY interesting… I guess maybe the timing chain just snapped? Maybe the tensioning system wasn’t doing the right thing.
If you end up doing an engine swap, you should put a bigger 996 3.4 or 3.6 in it.
+David Shaw my current working theory is timing chain guide rail failure
@Help Me DIY Exactly. And from what I can see in this particular video, the chain tensioner guide rail is MISSING? The fellow who owned the car before you and tried to fix it either didn't realize it was missing or forgot to install one? Good thing he didn't get it started!!! LOL
I'll guess that the lifter failed and the debris entered the oil scavenge pump on that bank. The pump failed, and when they do, they fail catastrophically. A hole in the valve cover is a primary symptom of an oil pump failure. The forward hole in the cam cover may have been from the missing valve lifter lid. It ought to be in there somewhere,... or exited the engine through the hole...