Hi Leonard. This was one of my very early attempts at video making, and I've come a long way in terms of making them since then. I appreciate you watching and your kind comment. 😎 Cheers.
I’m always amazed by this method of doing stud partitions. Here in Jockoland 🏴 we’d sheet the ceiling, make the frames on the big area of the floor, give it 10-15mm, stand the partitions, Plumb & Fix. Much, much faster. Maybe your Gyproc is Skimmed? Here it’s always Tapped n Filled👍
Hi Fibre Washer. The floor is just rough cast oversite concrete so up and down a fair bit. We did used to tack the ceilings first and then fit the studwork, but we were having a lot of problems with cracking, especially on bungalows, so we put the walls in first now which means smaller plaster boarded ceiling areas, which has cured the cracking problems. (the ceilings are skimmed though).😎 Thanks for watching.
we dont board the ceiling first but always make up frames (unless sloping ceilings). Every upright on the stools in a pack and cut to the tightest point if there isnt too much variation. Smash them up, nail them down and together then walk round the corners plumbing up in one go with a 6ft level. Drop your ceiling nogs in after where you need them.
@@stevehallam6495 Even with Skimmed Gyproc, the Ceiling would be sheeted first, then external walls & as said, Partitions framed up on the Deck & fixed in location. This method has been used for decades, but we’re mainly Timber Frame construction & I guess it’s a very North American method. It’s fast as f.ck though!!!
Hi Alex. Really appreciate your comment, and you watching my videos.😎 The channel hasn't been going long so there lots for me to learn about film making, and I'm trying to improve that with each new video.👍 Cheers.
Also just discovered your channel and subscribed. I know other youtubers e.g A&E have great 'polished' videos but I wouldn't worry about your 'film making' too much, "content is king". People watch for knowledge and information and you're doing a great job 👍. Just keep the info flowing.... "The screws I'm using are... "The timber cost me about ... " "I'm using marine ply on the ceiling because.... " and it would be perfect.
@@garyharrisonuk Hi Gary. Firstly, thanks for watching and commenting, but secondly for your your encouraging suggestions.🤩 Its obviously a new thing for me making videos, and all suggestions to make them as good as they can be is welcome.😎 Cheers.
Hi, finding your videos amazingly helpful as I’m about to embark on my first full size stud wall! Can I ask what plugs and screws you use! Cheers, Short carpenter in the making. 😝
@@thetallcarpenter You’re very welcome:] As an apprentice carpenter in the UK, I actually find your channel to be one of the most helpful on TH-cam. Something about the way you convey information just makes learning from you a breeze - You definitely make a superb teacher!
@@thetallcarpenter I don’t suppose you would consider taking on a newly qualified carpenter in the near future? It would be really great to learn some more from you first hand
Your comment is gold Mike.🤩 Its great that lots of people find my videos interesting/helpful, but the MAIN reason I'm even on TH-cam is to try and shine a light on what a wicked trade carpentry is, and to try and encourage, especially, young guns like yourself to be the best you can be as there is a long and rewarding future for highly skilled tradesmen/women.😎 Thanks for your comment.👍
Hi Mike. Its great of you to ask, but I have just found it almost impossible over the years find a balance between the amount of work I can get and the commitment I would need to give to someone if I took them on. I had 13 people working for me once on a job, and it was very stressful. I then had one guy for a couple of years, and took on more work accordingly, and then he just left and I couldn't get all the work completed. I also had a really good apprentice, but he started messing me about and couldn't keep of the drugs. The reality of it now is, I just get, (if I can), one of my old chippy buddies to help out if I'm on a big project to get it pushed on a bit, and then carry on on my own. What part of the UK are you?
@@thetallcarpenter it’s been a while since I’ve done any 1st fixing ... This was like a refresher video for me ... good tip with the stapling of the damp proof to the sole plate 👍🏼.
Really appreciate this..when you position the floor plates I assume your work from a drawing.. my question is what do you reference from ..the block work, exterior door openings or some sort self determined reference line ie the longest running wall.?. I ask this because I assume people make mistakes so you must have a way of cross referencing..great channel hope it grows..
Hi there. Yes, I always work to a drawing, but have the freedom of interpretation to a degree. Usually I, as you suggest, I plot the longest straight run and use this as a datum/squaring point. 👍 Thanks for your comment and kind words. 😎
Random question from me bud, looking to counter batten a wall for a horizontal service (pipes not electrics) and wondering if you can use a 2x1 rather than a 2x2? Can't seem to find anything in the regs to state what's suitable so i'd assume 2x1 rough sawn timber would do the job? Or would it need to be C16
Hi there. I can't see any issues with using 2x1. I presume it will be well fixed to the wall so doesn't need to a structural grade timer as it's only holding plasterboard 👍
alright bud, what did you film this on? assuming this was your first vid? deffo wanna start some proper vids for my own work. i posted a quick vid the other day but it was just the result of a job id done rather than me actually doing the said job.
I'm just wondering when you set the walls out and their is a stair opening do you go off the drawing or do you just go off the stair opening? How would you go about running the wall straight through from a stair opening would you find the measure ment to the stair opening and transfer it to the other end of the wall or would you just laser it off the joist?
Hi Nathan. Good question mate. The stair well HAS to be correct, so comes before everything else regarding floor plan as far as I'm concerned. It also depends where the stair well is. If it was along a party wall in a semi/terrace then I'd just go parallel from that wall the length of any studwork. Also need to keep an eye on how plumb the wall is where the stairs are going, as if it falls out as it goes up, then that needs to be accommodated also as it can close down the stair well and cause problems when fitting the stairs. Occasionally, the stairs go in first, and in this case, the studwork just gets fitted round that.😎Cheers.
Do you agree with putting Dpc under stud work? Ive ripped out a few walls with it on and it seems to trap moisturiser and cause rot rather than letting the concrete and timber to dry naturally, a treated timber sole plate makes more sense to me? Plus you have to drill through it? But regs is regs i suppose?
Hi Matthew🖐I put DPC under the plate because building control believes it stops damp penetrating the timber from the concrete. This seems odd to me, as the concrete slab is sat on a DPM, so no moisture should be present in the structure after the initial dry out. I personally don't think there would be a sufficient amount of moisture in the drying slab to cause any long term issues to the timber👍Just my opinion based on my experience and logic👊Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Jon. Sorry about the quality of much of these earlier videos. I am using a better camera now and working hard on getting the sound right.👍 Thanks for watching.
Hi there. Really good question!!. The building inspectors insist on it.😵 They actually now want us to use a wider DPC and turn it at least the thickness of the screed up the stud work as well.😮 Cheers.
Structural timber should never be in direct contact with concrete unless it's pressure treated and then I'd be lashing on some Protim with a brush, 🔨 🇮🇪
@@TotalCarping Hi TC. I think most carpenters take pride in their work. Its often on show, so has to be right.🤩 Thanks for your lovely comment mate.👍 Cheers.
@@andrewjackson4384 Cheers Andrew. I have the newer DeWalt cross line laser now, which runs off a 10.5v battery which is so much better👊Have a nice Christmas break as well bud🤩Cheers Del
@@gavincollins9376 Hi Gavin. I wouldn't give the builder that much credit. He uses wood because it's available at the builders merchants and he only uses 3x2 cls.😝Cheers.
this is a quality channel your methods are shown with clarity and precision
Hi Leonard. This was one of my very early attempts at video making, and I've come a long way in terms of making them since then. I appreciate you watching and your kind comment. 😎 Cheers.
I’m always amazed by this method of doing stud partitions. Here in Jockoland 🏴 we’d sheet the ceiling, make the frames on the big area of the floor, give it 10-15mm, stand the partitions, Plumb & Fix. Much, much faster. Maybe your Gyproc is Skimmed? Here it’s always Tapped n Filled👍
Hi Fibre Washer. The floor is just rough cast oversite concrete so up and down a fair bit. We did used to tack the ceilings first and then fit the studwork, but we were having a lot of problems with cracking, especially on bungalows, so we put the walls in first now which means smaller plaster boarded ceiling areas, which has cured the cracking problems. (the ceilings are skimmed though).😎 Thanks for watching.
we dont board the ceiling first but always make up frames (unless sloping ceilings). Every upright on the stools in a pack and cut to the tightest point if there isnt too much variation. Smash them up, nail them down and together then walk round the corners plumbing up in one go with a 6ft level. Drop your ceiling nogs in after where you need them.
@@stevehallam6495 Even with Skimmed Gyproc, the Ceiling would be sheeted first, then external walls & as said, Partitions framed up on the Deck & fixed in location.
This method has been used for decades, but we’re mainly Timber Frame construction & I guess it’s a very North American method. It’s fast as f.ck though!!!
@@TheDickPuller we're not allowed to board the ceilings first. Its a health and safety issue with electricians falling through ceilings.
@@stevehallam6495 Of course, the Electric & Plumbing First Fix is completed prior to any sheeting Steve.
Looking forward to seeing more videos on your journey
Hi Darren. Really nice comment, thank you.😎 Have a good week.👍
Wow just found this channel. Looking forward to catching up with all vids.
Lovely stuff.
Hi Alex. Really appreciate your comment, and you watching my videos.😎 The channel hasn't been going long so there lots for me to learn about film making, and I'm trying to improve that with each new video.👍 Cheers.
Also just discovered your channel and subscribed. I know other youtubers e.g A&E have great 'polished' videos but I wouldn't worry about your 'film making' too much, "content is king". People watch for knowledge and information and you're doing a great job 👍. Just keep the info flowing.... "The screws I'm using are... "The timber cost me about ... " "I'm using marine ply on the ceiling because.... " and it would be perfect.
@@garyharrisonuk Hi Gary. Firstly, thanks for watching and commenting, but secondly for your your encouraging suggestions.🤩 Its obviously a new thing for me making videos, and all suggestions to make them as good as they can be is welcome.😎 Cheers.
Using the laser level is so much quicker and easier than the old traditional way with a plumb bob thanks again for sharing
Hi Stephen. The laser was one of those bits of kit that really changed the way I levelled stuff up.🤩 Awesome pieces of equipment.😎Cheers.
Used to use a 6ft and 4ft to plumb up, I'd say near on just as quick
@@gavincollins9376 i prefer using spirit levels. I only use the laser for straight lines across large areas.
@@gavincollins9376 An 8' Stabila level is the balls for stud work, it has loads of other uses as well, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪
@@gavincollins9376 I would say a spirit level and knocking frames up first is quicker for sure.
Great video mate, super informative.. keep them coming!
Hi Zac. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you're finding my videos helpful. 😎 Cheers.
Hi, finding your videos amazingly helpful as I’m about to embark on my first full size stud wall! Can I ask what plugs and screws you use!
Cheers,
Short carpenter in the making. 😝
Hi there🖐I'm glad my videos are helping you👍and I use red plugs and 5x80 screws👊All the best😎Del
Thank you so much!
Great content! And your explanations are super helpful! Keep up the good work!
Appreciate your comment Mike.🤩 Cheers.👍
@@thetallcarpenter You’re very welcome:] As an apprentice carpenter in the UK, I actually find your channel to be one of the most helpful on TH-cam. Something about the way you convey information just makes learning from you a breeze - You definitely make a superb teacher!
@@thetallcarpenter I don’t suppose you would consider taking on a newly qualified carpenter in the near future? It would be really great to learn some more from you first hand
Your comment is gold Mike.🤩 Its great that lots of people find my videos interesting/helpful, but the MAIN reason I'm even on TH-cam is to try and shine a light on what a wicked trade carpentry is, and to try and encourage, especially, young guns like yourself to be the best you can be as there is a long and rewarding future for highly skilled tradesmen/women.😎 Thanks for your comment.👍
Hi Mike. Its great of you to ask, but I have just found it almost impossible over the years find a balance between the amount of work I can get and the commitment I would need to give to someone if I took them on. I had 13 people working for me once on a job, and it was very stressful. I then had one guy for a couple of years, and took on more work accordingly, and then he just left and I couldn't get all the work completed. I also had a really good apprentice, but he started messing me about and couldn't keep of the drugs. The reality of it now is, I just get, (if I can), one of my old chippy buddies to help out if I'm on a big project to get it pushed on a bit, and then carry on on my own. What part of the UK are you?
Nicely done 👍🏼🪚
Cheers Paul.🤩 Have a great weekend.👍
@@thetallcarpenter it’s been a while since I’ve done any 1st fixing ... This was like a refresher video for me ...
good tip with the stapling of the damp proof to the sole plate 👍🏼.
@@paulknights1764 Cheers Paul.🤩
Really appreciate this..when you position the floor plates I assume your work from a drawing.. my question is what do you reference from ..the block work, exterior door openings or some sort self determined reference line ie the longest running wall.?. I ask this because I assume people make mistakes so you must have a way of cross referencing..great channel hope it grows..
Hi there. Yes, I always work to a drawing, but have the freedom of interpretation to a degree. Usually I, as you suggest, I plot the longest straight run and use this as a datum/squaring point. 👍 Thanks for your comment and kind words. 😎
Random question from me bud, looking to counter batten a wall for a horizontal service (pipes not electrics) and wondering if you can use a 2x1 rather than a 2x2? Can't seem to find anything in the regs to state what's suitable so i'd assume 2x1 rough sawn timber would do the job? Or would it need to be C16
Hi there. I can't see any issues with using 2x1. I presume it will be well fixed to the wall so doesn't need to a structural grade timer as it's only holding plasterboard 👍
alright bud, what did you film this on? assuming this was your first vid? deffo wanna start some proper vids for my own work. i posted a quick vid the other day but it was just the result of a job id done rather than me actually doing the said job.
Hi Paul. Why don't you send me a message via Instagram. thetallcarpenteruk
I'm just wondering when you set the walls out and their is a stair opening do you go off the drawing or do you just go off the stair opening? How would you go about running the wall straight through from a stair opening would you find the measure ment to the stair opening and transfer it to the other end of the wall or would you just laser it off the joist?
Hi Nathan. Good question mate. The stair well HAS to be correct, so comes before everything else regarding floor plan as far as I'm concerned. It also depends where the stair well is. If it was along a party wall in a semi/terrace then I'd just go parallel from that wall the length of any studwork. Also need to keep an eye on how plumb the wall is where the stairs are going, as if it falls out as it goes up, then that needs to be accommodated also as it can close down the stair well and cause problems when fitting the stairs. Occasionally, the stairs go in first, and in this case, the studwork just gets fitted round that.😎Cheers.
we set stud half inch off stair string so it finishes flush to it
Do you agree with putting Dpc under stud work? Ive ripped out a few walls with it on and it seems to trap moisturiser and cause rot rather than letting the concrete and timber to dry naturally, a treated timber sole plate makes more sense to me? Plus you have to drill through it? But regs is regs i suppose?
Hi Matthew🖐I put DPC under the plate because building control believes it stops damp penetrating the timber from the concrete. This seems odd to me, as the concrete slab is sat on a DPM, so no moisture should be present in the structure after the initial dry out. I personally don't think there would be a sufficient amount of moisture in the drying slab to cause any long term issues to the timber👍Just my opinion based on my experience and logic👊Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Should u put the DPC on the upright studs touching the walls or outer walls on breeze block?
Hi there. It's not necessary in this type of construction as damp cannot find its way into the internal block work skin👍 Thanks for watching😎
I had the same question- thanks for answering.
Just how tall a carpenter are you? 😁 Also awesome channel thank you for the content 👍🏾
Hi Michael. A little under 6'6"😁 I think I'm starting to shrink back a little as I get older though.😬 Thanks for watching.👍
@@thetallcarpenter bloody heck that's tall no wonder you didn't need a hop up 😂😂
@@michaelcurtis6664 😝😎
Couldn’t hear some of the commentary due to wind noise. You need a fluffy thing. Great videos though.
Hi Jon. Sorry about the quality of much of these earlier videos. I am using a better camera now and working hard on getting the sound right.👍 Thanks for watching.
If the property is got DPC layer under concrete then why use dpc under the wood pieces ?
Hi there. Really good question!!. The building inspectors insist on it.😵 They actually now want us to use a wider DPC and turn it at least the thickness of the screed up the stud work as well.😮 Cheers.
The new floor is giving of moisture as it cures . The first dpc is to combat rising damp from below foundation
@@gcara9918 Thanks. Makes sense.👍
Structural timber should never be in direct contact with concrete unless it's pressure treated and then I'd be lashing on some Protim with a brush, 🔨 🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut 👍
Great stuff but look at the state of some of that blockwork! shocking
Hi TC. I will pass your comments on to the relevant department.🤐😝 Cheers.
I’m a chippy, and I feel like most chippys take pride in their work but I feel that most brickys do not. Love the videos by the way
@@TotalCarping Hi TC. I think most carpenters take pride in their work. Its often on show, so has to be right.🤩 Thanks for your lovely comment mate.👍 Cheers.
What model number is your laser level thanks Andy
Hi Andy. It's one of the early DW087 models I got in 2007 and has been brilliant👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter cheers delFor the information really like your videos have a lovely Christmas
@@andrewjackson4384 Cheers Andrew. I have the newer DeWalt cross line laser now, which runs off a 10.5v battery which is so much better👊Have a nice Christmas break as well bud🤩Cheers Del
With the cost of timber these days, most developers want that metal stud malarky...
Hi Gavin. I dint know why this particular builder sticks with timber.🤔 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Well metal stud has too much whip in the walls I find. Wood is much stronger so fair play to the developer for sticking with wood.
@@gavincollins9376 Hi Gavin. I wouldn't give the builder that much credit. He uses wood because it's available at the builders merchants and he only uses 3x2 cls.😝Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Even 3x2 is better than metal stud! Metal stud is just quicker to build and cheaper!
@@gavincollins9376 👍
the timbers for stud walls looks so tiny are they 4x 2 or cls
Hi Colin👊They too small, in my opinion🤔They are 3x2 cls(2.5"x1.5")It's what that builder prefers😖Cheers Del