Fixing a Carbon Locked Adjustable Gas Block
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows ONE method of fixing a Carbon Locked Adjustable Gas Block. The SLR is featured in the video, but ALL adjustable gas blocks can suffer from Carbon Lock. In my opinion, SLR is the easiest to maintain out of all of the adjustables on the market.
"It's not professional to leave marks..."
God bless you sir. Your attention to detail is exactly what is expected in this business. My local gunsmith significantly dinged up my mk18 upper (DD parts over $1k) during assembly and said it was 'part of the install process'. I was shocked and will NEVER go back
It isnt professional to leave marks, no, however it is a tool, not a purse. Embrace the wear
He paided for the service to fix not wear
@@kanaka118446 you're a hack
You are an absolute godsend to the AR community. We appreciate your efforts.
Second. Please post link to Patreon/alternative. I’d like to donate
I think that every shop needs a Shop Cat. When you start talking to yourself you can always say that you were talking to the cat.
Shop cat or shop dog or shop turtle etc.
Yeah I obviously have one see avatar image.
*Out comes Berryman*.
Every car guy: “Hello old friend”
Careful with that stuff. Rumor has it that stuff is strong enough to remove everything but the shame of your bad life choices.
Uuii Uuii
If you ever get brass transfer marks from a punch or hammer, copper removing bore cleaner will take it off - since brass is mostly copper.
Awesome video!
That cat is adorable and I am not even a cat guy. I love doggies! Also, you are a GODSEND to our community. I learn so much from you.
the cat is crying for attention. It loves you. Thank you for taking good care of her.
These videos always end up filling my Amazon cart! Great info!
Cute little Chonkers. The Cat, not you Chad.
The cat portion was entirely hilarious hahaha; and great info
I just had my 1st carbon locked odinworx
I had a beautiful 308 hand load that was grouping 1 hole 5 shot groups @ 100.
2 trips back I couldn't group. Last trip I took hand loads and 3 different types of factory ammo. No Love. I tore it down and it was so locked I could spin the whole AR10 with the tiny Allen adjuster screw. I soaked mine in DPMS CLAW OIl. It's perfect again. I'm headed to the range in the morning to test ammo. I didn't use my sonic cleaner as I was concerned about rust. Neat video. Thanks a bunch for posting it
You looked like you could do this in your sleep. Great tutorial. My "adjustable" product-info didn't even address this issue or procedure. So helpful.
One pattern I've noticed with a lot of the firearms that come into your shop for diagnosis and repair is that they're all absolutely filthy. As if the owner has no idea that he has to clean it or simply refuses to do so. Now, I understand that the AR platform doesn't need to be spotlessly cleaned any time a round is fired like they make us do in the military, however I feel that if owners implemented a cleaning and maintenance schedule they will prevent many of these problems, or observe them before their weapon is inoperable.
Lesson, Clean, lubricate, and take care of your firearms. They're an investment into your life and should be cared for as such.
It may not be "fashionable" now, but if you never let the sun set on a dirty gun, you can keep a lot of problems like this from occurring.
Its called laziness that contributes to the harm as shown. Many still have the mentality that you dont need to clean them like it was originally promoted in the 60s for platform.
@Kenneth Hinson I once went 3000 rounds before cleaning my AR, wanted to see if it met the Marine Corps spec.. It did.. As a Marine, it was painful to do the experiment.
You need an ultrasonic part claning tank!
so glad to see you use Chem-Dip cleaner! ill worry less about it damaging stuff on my AR & SCAR, I plug the barrel then use a pipet to pour it directly into the gas tube until its full, and let stand for 24hrs, that stuff is amazing, also used it to free a stubbornly stuck Suppressor!
I have this exact same SLR Sentry (7) adjustable gas block on my AR. Although my rifle has never been even remotely as fouled as this example, once I recognized the block and then read the title, it caught my attention enough to watch the video in its entirety to see what had occurred. Needless to say the video was not just educational but entertaining as well. I have now subscribed to Instructor Chad's channel. Thank you for the video, Sir, I appreciate your thoroughness and your attention to detail, taking the time to touch up your otherwise minor scuff marks, despite the owner showing much less concern fo the overall condition of their own firearm.
all you have to do to prevent the slr gb from seizing is lube the adjustment screw with hoppes after every shooting.
@@investigativeoutcomes9343 🤣🤣😂😂
I have this issue on my 308 SLR gasblock but once you set it up you don't need to touch it again so I don't care that its carbon locked
@@slipknnnot the slr titanium gb is the one, nothing sticks to titanium and when titanium heats up it tightens so the titaniums have less tendency to loosen up. slr titanium gas block is the cry once part, it's that good. and yeah i set it and forget it, but sometimes adjustments need to be made when switching ammo type, 300blk for example. i have a few slr adj gb's, they are awesome!
@Investigative Outcomes got the .875 SLR block on the m110 clone barrel.. have about ~2K rounds on it 50% handloads and I shoot it suppressed or unsupressed. Haven't done any maintenance on the gas block but yea it doesn't click anymore. But I never had to adjust the gas really just set and forget never had a malfunction ..
I've never built an AR platform rifle and likely never will however your videos have given me an understanding of the platform better than anything I've learned from other videos, books etc. You are definitely a master at what you do and you also have a way of presenting material that makes it easy for anyone to follow. Thank you.
Dude I learn something new with every video. This guy is awesome
Instead of oil, why not try a small amount of nickel based anti-seize on the adjuster threads?
They're pros bro
I use the loctite copper based anti-seize on my suppressor mount threads and it works great, I think it's a solid idea.
@@indica8176 Pro does not equal God. We've all seen pros that don't know all there is to know and miss the boat on some things. Copper based anti-seize for high temp applications are used for this all the time in most industries. Oils can quickly burn off. High temp anti-seize will not. And, it will protect between difference types of metal, say aluminum and steel.
Even better, there are ceramic anti-seizes that are good up to 1400 centigrade (2552 Fahrenheit). Metal based anti-seizes may corrode aluminium
@@shuntawolf To be fair, the pros that built the ship probably advised against slamming it into a iceberg. Now for the pro who was driving the boat…
A person taking pride in his work Gotta love it
You would think he paid about the same or more than just replacing this gas block right? There about $100 ish
I've been so Impressed with all you guys' thorough inspection process, I feel like I should ask for help with my Grendel build that wont cycle.
The leaf spring appeared to be slightly bound up the first time you installed it. Looks like it set a little deeper at the screw on the final install. Great video and I always appreciate the information you share.
just keep the slr lubed with hoppes and it will never seize.
That was a VERY informative video. I just installed the exact gas block on my 308 today.
You are a gun’s best friend and the viewing community, thank you!
YOU SIR, ARE AWESOME!
this channel is criminally underrated
Why not pack the threads of the adjustable gas screw with high-temp nickel graphite anti-seize paste during reassembly?
Absolutely love your channel. Found it only within the last month or two. And I've been watching so many of your videos. Thank you so much.
I want the cat cut please.
My wife nearly lost it hearing "The cat has brain damage" lol
B12 chemtool was my go to secret sauce for any old vehicle, or small engine for years. You could spend 10 bucks on Seafoam or spend 4 bucks on Berrys magic sauce and do a better job. That and Marvel Mystery Oil, still run them to this day but I don't work on nearly as many old engines.
I was hoping at the end you would show how to remove and throw away the adjustable gas block 😀
Or soak it in snake oil.
An excellent reason to use a standard gas block.
All any of you AR owners have to do too keep your guns running, is clean your damn gun,SIMPLE SOLUTION
If the adjuster is eroded and letting more gas by, why would you not just screw it in another couple clicks? That would do the same thing and save replacing the adjuster for a little erosion, unless I'm completely missing something. I run these exact gas blocks myself and on a couple different occasions, I've had to screw it in another click or 2.
screws that interact with the gasses, I tend to throw a little brass or copper Anti-Seize on it and it goes forever.
I like to tape stuff up when using the hammer, or I will slip a piece of pvc, conduit or copper over a barrel even after taping.
Great video, I just had to send my slr in because it was gassing from full open to almost closed in 1 click.
I think they either sent me a new one or replaced a defective adjustment screw because now my wrench barely fits in the socket.
After watching this, I just contacted them to see if I could purchase parts.
Chad is absolutely brilliant!
Is there a place to purchase additional springs? I had one break. They took care of me but I would like extras.
Those black glove really are a terrible back drop for that screw. I had a hard time focusing. Thank you for that Aluminum black. Its a great tip
Those Black Springs were replaced back in 2016. I've Talked to Todd about it. Pretty sure they would send out a rebuild kit. I'd replace all of yours. The Newer springs are much more heavier duty and more of a raw finish color.
The "original" Chem-Dip stuff is chlorinated hydrocarbons, we had a bucket of it in the shop when I worked at Toyota that we used on exceptionally gunked up stuff; most stuff would just go in a heated solvent tank or parts washer (Very similar to the tank setup you show in one of your other videos only it had a plastic tank) and we'd use the Super Purple degreaser from the auto parts store... One of the techs knocked it over and that corner of the shop reeked for like 8 months
Nice, Griffin Hammer Comp. Also, good video. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
I use just a little bit of anti-seize, on the threads only
QUESTION: in your experience, approximately how many rounds can be fired through an AR before the adjusting screw should be replaced because of erosion?
500-1000 rounds for me, provided you CLOSE the gas block before you clean the rifle. Don't let oil get inside there. It will burn off and leave more carbon.
@@ragedashboard6374 so new gas block every 1000 rounds??? I think I didnt understand your explanation
just keep your slr gb lubed with hoppes and it will never seize.
Thank you for this video I have the same block on my .308 never knew how it came apart or how to fully clean it! By the way on minei believe it's 5 suppressed and 7 non
I cant believe how badly maintained some of these weapons are. The amount of carbon is just disgusting. For a work gun that you trusting your life with. I'd hate to see how some of these people treat their cars.
@@LegionPrime Cause we all know oil will melt carbon.. Bwahahahaha!
you have to keep adjustable gb's lubed with hoppes and they will never seize, slr gb best of the best.
Thanks for the knowledge very informative and helpful and the cat is awesome!
How many rounds was fired before it carbon locked ? Was it ever cleaned b4 ?
I didn't think they made that stuff any more, stinks like ass but I now know of a new use for it. Thanks!
Do u recommend using anti seize on the adjustment screw?
What I learned as an armorer: Don't put an adjustable gas block on any of my personal DI Ar platform rifles. Thanks. However, I will be getting a tub of that Carb Cleaner.
This gun is likely run suppressed most of the time, and the gas block is to adjust for such use. My experience has been that it's close to self cleaning if you just run the adjustment a turn or 2 out and back to the original setting when you clean it, and I use the same gas block as in this video (SLR Rifleworks).
I am not a fan of the ultrasonic cleaner, however when using the Berryman Chem-Dip, using the tank heater function on a ultrasonic cleaner it is a force multiplier to the Berryman Chem-Dip. Doesn't work every time, it will most of the time.
Thanks for the video..! Great stuff, I’m impressed with your shop. Bravo....
I am new to gas blocks.
Building a pistol and a rifle and want to do some sub sonic single shot experimentation..
A couple of questions?
How many rounds do you estimate you or the customer had before this happened?
Did you soak it in Kroil, or just spray it on?
Also what in your opinion is the best adjustable Gas Block in terms of reliability and serviceability
Thanks in advance
Great video
Orange gloves, more lighting please. Good video. Crazy cat.
Hey Dr. Chad, what about applying some Molybdenum Disulfide grease to the threads before putting the adjustment screw and detent pin back in to keep them from locking up down the road? The Moly acts as a dry lubricant that embeds into the metal pores somewhat permanently, so the Carbon has less to stick to and breaks free easier even a long time down the road. I use a Molybdenum Disulfide grease GPL 215 from Krytox that's graphite free (which is abrasive to aluminum) as anti-seize on threads and even on the trigger sear because it's so dang "slippery" from 399°f even down to -32°f sub zero temps.
Great video brother. Really well done.
Would you recommend putting a little Aeroshell on the adjustment screw?
Seeing this repair has me asking what type of preventative maintenance could have been performed on the SLR Rifleworks gas block to prevent the carbon build up.
run it out a couple turns and back in every time you clean the gun. It'll break up carbon and blow it out next time you shoot the gun.
Chad, you're fuckin awesome. I have learned more than I could ever hope to watching your videos and following your guidance. Thank you!
Fine job! Great video 😊
A magnetic pick-up, some brake parts cleaner, and compressed air would make the clean-up process faster and easier...
how about a ultrasonic cleaner?
Don't know why I never asked this. How important is it to clean the entire length of a gas tube, down and into the gas block, and maybe into the barrel?
My understanding is a standard gas port, block, and tube don’t sustain hardly any fouling because the high pressure gases are continuously blowing straight through. An adjustable gas block is different because it has a small chamber, screw, and detent that are trapping some of the gas and carbon and other particles, which build up and harden over time. I’ve heard guys warn against attempting to clean gas tubes because you’re more likely to damage it or lodge material inside it than you are to do anything beneficial.
Could you tell me the correct name of this SCREW that you have replaced? Thank you 🫶👍🏻
Those are some tough gloves...mine usually shred with a wire brush...
Does it remove paint? I’m thinking to do this on an ak with adjustable gas block. But. The ak is painted a VERY unique color for my wife and I need it to not be harmed or discolored.
Damn fine work! Well done!
I use Barryman's in a heated ultrasonic cleaner to clean valves and pistons of carbon. Instead of hours or days it can take just 20-40 minutes in most cases. I would imagine it would have a similar effect for a gas block like this, although it may need to be removed from the barrel in order to work unless you have a really big ultrasonic cleaner.
What hex key did you use to remove the screw holding the leaf spring? Best
You have a cool looking cat
If the tip of the screw is eroded , what does the bore that it goes in look like ? I never change just one sock , do you ?
Proof that you can indeed fix just about anything with a hammer
The smell of berryman carb clearner is burned into my memory for eternity. I swear I can smell it just looking at a picture.
Love Shop Cat!
Would some automatic trans fluid work?
I remember my neighbor pouring a quart down his carb and left it over night. The truck smoked like heck, but the carbon knock was gone.
Are you still using that Yost vise? Happy? What’s the model number?
good to know, also, more on the shop cat pls
On a standard block, should we shoot some b12 or CLR down it on occasion?
I was always under the thought it blew the stuff out.
Maybe because this had a can it?
Maybe I missed it, how many rounds did all this fouling? And, how often should it have been cleaned?
Curious if this can be used on pistol barrels to remove carbon without it damaging the finish.
I’ll like it now and watch it later🤗 I believe!!
Any idea of how many rounds this is from???
Would something like 33MS be a good thing to put on the adjuster screw?
I also use new screws also, instead of cleaning them.
Would a dab of ep or high temp moly grease help keep the adjuster crew from seizing?
GREAT JOB!
I seen this product used to clean carbon build up on piston. Curious if it can be used to remove carbon build up on revolvers.
I use KROIL on my revolvers and a nylon bristle brush on my dremmel tool,
They look like new
Watching him work on that leaf spring and detent, it looks like thy should be reversible, yes?
I am woefully late to viewing this video (new subscriber)...
Do you know if the “Berryman” will take anodizing off...
Thinking of trying it on a .22cal., LR (serviceable) suppressor that is carbon locked
Berryman's is some good stuff!👍
"Shouldn't use this in an enclosed area" he said, from an enclosed area. :P
That probably explains the cat.
@@allenmckinney9533 Not really, CAT explains the cat! Brain damage comes as standard equipment!
Phenomenal. Thanks.
Question, why not hit the barrel with some painters tape before using the hammer.
A quick strip of tape would have saved some time no?
is the barrel really that cosmetically important?
@@nicg9599 I guess it's personal preference. If I let someone else touch my rifle, I wouldn't want marks on it. I thought "tape!" as soon as he lined the hammer up on that adjuster. 👍
It seems to me that a LOT of the issues you encounter, not just here, but in most of your videos, seem to have their roots based in a failure of the weapon owners/operators to properly clean their weapons after firing them. One thing my training in the British Army (not a technical role) told me was to remove ANY trace of carbon on any part of the weapon, especially, but not limited to, the gas parts, bolt assembly parts, bolt carrier, springs, spring guides, chamber, barrel, and flash hider, and woe betide me if I returned a weapon to the Armoury in any other state than the same or better state than I originally received it!
@13:17 are those blocks in your vise composite decking wrapped in leather?
Did you try a hammer? That's what we used in the Army when we had a stick gas block....🤣🤣🤣🤣
Don’t know if it’s still available but Prepsol also works great. Got that from Wilson’s book in the chapter about cleaning 1911s.
Loved the video. Where do you get replacement parts for SLR adjustable gas blocks?
Berryman's in an ultrasonic cleaner works miracles. 😉