Brilliant video and so clear to understand . Very important to make sure the groove for the rubber seal lid is clean and dry when refitting the lid . We were not quite so keen and could not get our lid back on . We think there was water under the seal and it would not let the lid sit down properly . Watched this video again ( last time was 2 years ago when we built the pond ) went back to pond , wiped the seal and greased it made sure groove was dry and Hey presto it went back together fine
Hi Eileen glad to hear you successfully sorted your issues!! Keeping the unit clean and lubricating the seals is essential in allowing for trouble free re-assembly after taking the unit apart. Thanks for your comment! Best, Ed
Love your channel and your practical easy to follow advice. Thank you. I have several filters on my small pond (1500 gallons) that I inherited and I am slowly upgrading/modifying. The Oase 8000 was left in sad state and hadn't been cleaned or maintained for several years. I followed your advice, changed the UV tube, and would now like to attack the foams filter media. 2 queries: 1) The foams are extremely expensive for what they are. You mentioned knock off foams. I am at least curious to see where they may be available (I am in the US) and how much they might be. 2) Wondering, since I have significant easy to clean mechanical filtration elsewhere, if I could simply put a few nylon zippered filter bags filled with K1 in in place of the foams, and then only gently use the handle to clean on a regular basis. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Seth
Hi Seth, thanks for watching and commenting! Re non genuine filter foams- simply doing an online search for “filter foams for Oase filtoclear (add your filter model)” will throw up a mix of genuine and non genuine products (does in the UK in any case). Look for the cheapest ones and they’ll generally be unbranded replicas. As for replacing the filter media- great idea and in principle this could work however you wont be able to do any form of backwashing as such as there wont be any compression within the K1 media. The cleaning mechanism relies on compression of the filter foams- squeezing out muck which is flushed away. Best regards, Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thanks for the reply. In the US, no generics show up, have been searching for some time. 🥺 Wasn't looking for compression, was just thinking the gentle pumping would loosen and allow the K1 to self clean . Thanks again.
After watching this, I thought I'd change my foams in 10 minutes, Firstly I couldn't get UV out as the plunger wouldn't go down low enough & got in the way when I tried twisting top off! So then I took whole lot out, got the old foams off & new ones kept springing out again. Then struggled to get the whole thing to seat back in position. After an hour, I managed to get it back & set securing strap ok! My legs were strained for a couple of days afterwards & I'm not looking forward to repeating this job!! The old foams look ok & should come up good as new when I clean them up. This filter is last in line of 3 other filters & I use this just to get rid of fine stuff.
HI there, thanks for watching and commenting. Well done for managing to complete the full clean- its not difficult as such but there’s definitely a knack to it and it helps massively when you’re doing it as regularly as I am! One tip- if you find that the blue handles are in the way of twisting and removing the uvc ballast (as you say they often don’t relocate fully into their housing due to dirt and debris collecting in the recess) then pull the cleaning mechanism up (as if cleaning the filter foams) and this will provide the clearance required to then remove the uvc. In practise this is a little fiddly- one hand pulling on the lever and one hand pressing the blue uvc release button and twisting at the same time!! A second pair of hands can be useful here! Well done in any case! Best, Ed
Great video, and very clear, yes I always struggle to get the lid back on and the locking strap thing, but get there eventually. What I am having problems with today, is getting the UV unit to click back in the top, have been trying for nearly two hours, but it wont click back into place, Any ideas what could be wrong?
Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear you’re having issues-could be worth trying to lift the cleaning handle with one hand and hold it high/clear of the uvc ballast/head. If the cleaning handle isn’t pushed all the way down to the bottom (and frequently it’s impossible to do so as debris gets caught in the mechanism) this gets in the way of twisting the uvc head around to its final closed position. Hope that works. If not remove the uvc and uv tube and first try replacing the uvc ballast like this. If it closes fully then reassemble with the uv tube and quartz sleeve and try again. Good luck! Best, Ed
Hi there! Thanks for watching and commenting- I currently don’t have any videos on maintaining/cleaning a pond vac-but perhaps something I’ll do in the future! Thanks very much, Best, Ed
Hi Ed, I have two OASE live water pumps for my Koi pond. Since I moved in the house with this lovely Koi pond, the pumps have been working fine. Till last week I found the water level has dropped dramatically in last couple of days and then found out one of pumps are leaking water out of the blue handle areas. Any idea how to fix this leaking? Is that because of the rubber band installed in the blue / silver handles?? Many thanks in advance!
Hi there! Sorry to hear of your issues; could you please confirm if water is leaking from the blue rotary dial that you twist when performing a back wash, or if the leak is from one or both of the stainless steel rods that’s connected to the blue handle you pull when performing a back wash? Best, Ed
Thanks for this cleans mine today could not get my uv light holder off had to pull very hard yours went on one handed il try again if not il get you round to do it for me just kidding thanks👍🏴
HI Pauline, thanks for watching and your comment and sorry to hear you’ve had some troubles talking your filter apart. Which part exactly are you having difficulties removing-I’ll help (verbally!) where I can. Best, Ed
Hi ,thanks for the video 👍. I've recently stripped down and cleaned my filter and reassembled but seem to have air bubbles coming back through the inlet pipe back into my pond. I've checked for leaks and can't see anything... Do you think this could be a rubber seal around the lid pulling air into the system ? Thanks 👍
Hi there, won’t be a leak in the system-as this is pressurised it won’t suck in air but instead expel water through any leaks! Any bubbles you’re seeing in the pond exiting the return pipe is most likely resulting from trapped air within the filters foams and canister that are being forced out once the system is back on. You can help to remove any trapped air by opening the cleaning outlet with the system running (but keeping the blue rotary dial pointing in the usual filter operation) you’ll hear lots of gurgling as air is expelled and once water starts to dribble out you’ll have purged the system of most of the air. Don’t worry about it though, any remaining trapped air in the system will work its way through. Best, Ed
If you want to put bacterial in fhe filter.. You can put them in the uv section when you remove the unit? If i am right the pond water comes first passing the uv light en then thru the filtermedium to the outlet? Cant find the exact flow thru the filter on internet ..
Hi there! Great question-and one I’m Not 100% sure I’m but now I will Def check next time I take a filtoclear apart! I’m pretty certain however that water enters the unit around the uvc first and out of some outlets at the bottom of the uvc housing into the filter chamber itself. Water is then forced through the filter foams and through a perforated core that surrounds the uvc chamber and then flows to the top of the filter and to the outlet. You could therefore add filter aids to the unit by simply removing the quick release uvc ballast (although not so on the latest gen filtoclears) and add treatments directly here. Making sure to turn off the uvc for a couple of days to allow the bacteria to colonise away from the uvc rays. Thanks for watching and your question! Best, Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics 👍it works .. Perfect way for adding bacterial in the filter ... Did it yesterday.. Also a good moment for uv glas cleaning. I dont use the uv light but clean is always better .. Got the 30000 just because i wanted a big filter .. Runs on a superfish eco 5000.. I prefer a bigger filter for less flushes.. Once a month now..
Hi, Firstly very informative video. I done all of this today, but for some reason I cannot get the lid to seal fully. I put the seal back on, push it all down and fit the collar. When I turn the pump on, it leaks out between the lid and base (in two points opposite eachother). I inspected the seal and all seems good and well. Any ideas or tips? Thanks
Hi there! Sorry to hear of your issue- one I’ve been quizzed on on many an occasion! Unless there’s damage to the casing of the filter itself- which is extremely unlikely (although I have encountered this when a client of mine used screwdrivers to try and lever the lid off when it was stuck with muck, damaging the edges where the seal sits and the end result was a new filter canister was required)- the leak will almost certainly be as a result of the main filter seal not sitting in the correct position. In pushing the lid on you’ve probably pinched it. I would take it apart again, make sure all surfaces are clean, free of any dirt and debris and give a generous lube of silicon grease or vaseline to the sealing ring. When you re position this try to leave the seal so its sitting right at the top of the canister, rather then pushing it all the way down into the base of the recess. The idea is that as you locate the lid to the base once you apply some pressure to the lid the seal will roll down into the correct seating position once the lid is fully located. Then its a case of applying constant pressure to the lid (so it doesn’t spring back up- a knee is useful here!) and fitting the locking clamp. I find it easiest to start at the rear of the clamp where it hinges at the halfway point- once its correctly located apply a little more pressure to one side of the lid and work your way around pushing that side of clamp fully into position, then apply more pressure to the other half of the lid and locate the remaining half of the clamp. Ensure this is then closed fully- a couple of clicks can be felt as the clamp fits fully together, then slide the locking mechanism over to lock the clamp closed. If it leaks again repeat the above- but its really very rare when I reassemble these systems that water leaks out of where you’ve said, unless some surrounding plants/foliage may have got caught between the lid and the base during the reassembly. Good luck and let me know how you get on! Best, Ed
HI there, thanks for your comment and my apologies for the slow response- in general no- the gaskets and seals will last many years before requiring replacement, just keep them clean and re lubricate after every service. As some point in time however you will need to replace the main filter head seal ring and the smaller and very thin seal ring between the uvc ballast and the filter lid. Hope that helps! Best, Ed
would you be kind to give me an advice in regard to the UV filter? How often needs to be changed? I had it replaced last year in August with another set of foams. At the moment is the end of April and the blue light is on - is that a guide to know if they still working or..they can go off even if the light is on? Also, do you recommend replacing the quartz sleeve too? Thank you very much in advance.
Hi there! It’s considered good practise to annually replace the uvc tube, regardless of whether it still ‘works’ (glowing blue/purple). This is because after a seasons use the amount of uvc radiation emitted from a used tube drops dramatically. The theory behind this is that during the spring months, ponds begin to warm , daylight hours increase and ponds go though a ‘spring algae bloom’. To counter act this having a new, full strength uvc tube running will help prevent such blooms and ensure clean, clear water for the remainder of the season. Hope this helps!
Sorry, forgot to mention the quartz sleeve! No, this doesn’t need to be replaced unless it is damaged. It’s worth while having a spare kept safe, just in case the worst happens and the sleeve gets damaged during a tube replacement. One last piece of advice- if even after a new tube your pond still remains green then I would almost certainly put money on this being because your uvc/filtration system is not large enough for your pond. Good luck!
@@CrystalClearAquatics thank you muchly and kindly for your advice. And you are perfectly right. You already spot it :) The specialist that came last year said I have a little too many fishes in the pond which increases the need for a larger filer system. I think I will do that. In the meantime, I will replace the UV tube. Thank you greatly again.
I’m looking into the 8000 model but it comes with a 55 watt UVC. I’m worried the power of the filter + UV is too powerful for my pond. I think the filter Big is good but is the UV too much if my pond is less than 1000 gallons? Is 4,000 gph too much for a pond my size?
I like the filtoclear or all clear G2 but don’t know if the filter and pump is too big and if I need 55 watts of UV if it’s very sunny and we’ll stocked
Hi there, am guessing you’re not from the uk as the 8000 model you’re looking at is what I would know as the filtoclear 30000 which has the integrated 55w uvc. These are fantastic units! Regarding its size in relation to your pond volume; although you could manage with a smaller unit (depending on what your pond volume is as you’ve not specified this) you can’t over filter a pond. A larger unit will simply mean less maintenance/longer interludes between cleans- and a cleaner pond- which is a good thing! Likewise with the uvc- most manufactures massively over spec their products. Oase are more realistic then most, but do look at small print and ALWAYS base your pond on the full sun high fish stock examples on their charts. If you have the space to accommodate one and can afford to I would highly recommend going for such a unit. One thing to note is that if you’re overspecing the filter you don’t necessarily have to do the same with the pump. If you’re running a big filter on a small pond and the return is via a stream/cascade you may find the flow rates from the recommended pump for the larger model filter could be too large for you, creating Niagra falls! Better to purchase a larger then required filter/uvc and the correct sized pump or one with only a slighter larger then necessary flow rate. Hope this helps and if you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to get in touch!
With the vacuuming of the inside of the filter, is that vacuuming the water out? Mine is full of water and i'm not clear on whether i'm supposed to get rid of it or not. Thanks
Martine Cunningham Yes, the idea is to vacuum out the chamber entirely-dirty water and sludge. If you leave the water in the canister once you’ve replaced/cleaned the foams much of this will get pumped back into the pond. If you haven’t got a vac removing the water is a little trickier-scoop it out with a little scoop or lift the canister out of the ground and tip it out. Best, Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thank you. I'm currently having trouble fitting the bit that holds the bulb back in place (the first thing you removed). For some reason it's not fitting back on 😥
Martine Cunningham good morning! Do you mean the quick release ballast/electrics that requires you to press the blue button to release? If so my advice would be to ensure both male and female surfaces are clean of debris and lightly greased with some silicon grease or Vaseline. If you remember when removing this section you have to press the blue button, twist a little and the the electrics are removable. Replacement is in reverse-you have to offer the electrics back into their housing at an angle before you can push them gently and fully locate. You can then twist to lock. Sometime the blue cleaning handle gets in the way and stops you being able to do this-if you can’t push the handle all the way down enough to allow the electrics to locate correctly you can pull/lift the handle up to give you the required clearance. Hope this makes sense and don’t give up!
@@CrystalClearAquatics Thanks. I abandoned it overnight to be honest, but i'm going to have a go again today. I think a stone or something has slipped inside the hole you put this into as it is touching the bottom (don't know if that makes sense). I'm going to take the whole thing out again and start putting it back together again. I will try lifting the handle up though, thanks.
Martine Cunningham good luck, take you’re time and you’ll get there. Sounds like you’re just not offering up the electrics at the correct angle-they won’t drop down into place correctly unless offered up at this position.
Too be honest not really sure, (am sure Oase technical would have the answer) although I’m guessing that as the water flows around the foams and through into the central core evenly- rather from top to bottom/bottom to top- there would be no way of channelling the water through different grades of foam, ie course to fine. Additionally the different grades of foam stacked alternately like this creates less resistance when trying to compress them via the cleaning mechanism.
Cathal Walker hi there! Simply googling “Oase filtoclear replacement uvc tube” brings up lots of options. Here’s one link for you; www.bradshawsdirect.co.uk/oase-filtoclear-compatible-replacement-uv-bulbs Hope that helps!
FYI: I took my foam out and rinsed it really good with hose...then put oneat a time in a bucket, and then then poured hot water from inside tap, over the foam and they spring right back into shape!!!!! And my foams were 100x worse than the ones in this video!!!! (Due to me being out of the country for 8 months, left the pond running)
Hello there I have tried to put the top part back on the bottom part but it is not going on and the collar won't click into place. The seal seems to be stopping it.
Cathal Walker Hi there, I’m afraid there is a bit of a knack and a certain amount of force involved in replacing the lid. The best advice I can give you is to remove the lid, the locking clamp and the rubber seal again and to ensure that all these parts are clean (see vid). Use some Silicon grease or vasaline and lubricate around the rim of the base of the filter and the rubber seal and then sit the seal into its correct position. Try and pull the seal up a little , rather then pushing it right down into the crease where it resides once the lid is on, as keeping it high helps the lid to go back on with less resistance-(the lid sort of rolls down over the seal.) Hold the lid above the base and gently lower it onto the base ensuring you are keeping it as square to the base as possible. Once mating the top push down with some weight (a knee kept on top helps!) and then begin to replace the locking clamp -which should have been previously cleaned also. Open the clamp and position it around the base, I find it easiest to have the hinge of the clamp furthest away from you and with your knee (or just pushing down with one hand) start by attaching the hinged/middle section of the clamp first and then you should be able to (again keeping weight on the lid of the filter) push one half of the clamp into position and then the other half. Again watch closely in the vid. I’m afraid it’s not easy to advise via txt but keep trying and you’ll get there. Most importantly: make sure everything is clean and that you’re using lube of some sort! Good luck!
Hi There! Although a uvc tube will often continue to operate for multiple years the amount of uv radiation emitted diminishes dramatically after even six months ‘burn’ time. It would be considered standard practice to renew a uvc tube every spring (regardless of whether it still lights up or not). Replacing the tube early in the season ensures that your filtration system is operating at full strength to combat the inevitable ‘spring algae bloom’ that blights most ponds during the early spring and summer months. Hope this helps! Best, Ed
Hmmmnn, many reasons I’m afraid- but my first port of call would be to disconnect the pump from any pipework and switch It on to see what happens. With it switched on hold the pump (submersed) in your hands- feel any vibrations? If so that confirms power is not an issue and most likely a blockage within the impeller. Dismantle the pump and clean, removing the impeller ideally and cleaning this and the impeller chamber also. A cheap toothbrush and some cotton earbuds are ideal here. Reassemble and switch on- if it runs reconnect pipework and you’re good to go. If you can’t feel any vibrations to the pump it’s still worth stripping and cleaning- if this doesn’t resolve the issue check fuses and electrical connections. If the pump was working before switching off to service the filter my money is on a blockage/dirty impeller and cleaning this will resolve the issue. Good luck and hope you get it going again.
Every year? A good filter bacterial works after 1 year.. so why replace when it is just getting started.. check every year an replace only what is damaged and not all in one time
Hi there Jeffrey, thanks for watching and commenting! In general I would agree with you-replacing filter media wants to be done as infrequently as possible to ensure stability within the bacterial cultures that establish in filtration systems. However pressurised systems are a little different and unless meticulously maintained the pressures involved in the system (particularly so the older filtoclear models, although not so with the latest generation) cause the filter foams to compress and disfigure so much that filtration is massively compromised. Additionally such compression and clogging of the open cellular structure of the filter foams actually reduces surface area and inhibits nitrifying bacterial colonisation and so a complete filter media change is actually beneficial. Some would argue retaining one of the old foams and mixing this with the remaining new filter foams will help the new foams establish much faster- but in my experience in an established pond there is more then enough biologically going on in the pond that the new filters will establish fully in 4 to 6 weeks. It’s advisable to reduce feeding for the first couple of weeks after replacing the filter foams, but as generally this job is done early spring when the water temperatures are only just starting to rise this is a bit of a moot point, as feeding isn’t yet up to the quantities that summer water temperatures require. Best regards, Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thanks for you reply. I just got my first pressure filter .. i used to have flow thru filters and i didnt kwow that this needed to be done.. thanks for the advise.. i am going to check every spring en authum and do some maintenance.. Thankyou🙏
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Brilliant video and so clear to understand . Very important to make sure the groove for the rubber seal lid is clean and dry when refitting the lid . We were not quite so keen and could not get our lid back on . We think there was water under the seal and it would not let the lid sit down properly . Watched this video again ( last time was 2 years ago when we built the pond ) went back to pond , wiped the seal and greased it made sure groove was dry and Hey presto it went back together fine
Hi Eileen glad to hear you successfully sorted your issues!! Keeping the unit clean and lubricating the seals is essential in allowing for trouble free re-assembly after taking the unit apart.
Thanks for your comment!
Best,
Ed
Great demonstration, thanks. Loved the "they're not cheap" comment on the filters.
Thanks very much and glad to have helped!
Best,
Ed
Love your channel and your practical easy to follow advice. Thank you.
I have several filters on my small pond (1500 gallons) that I inherited and I am slowly upgrading/modifying. The Oase 8000 was left in sad state and hadn't been cleaned or maintained for several years. I followed your advice, changed the UV tube, and would now like to attack the foams filter media.
2 queries:
1) The foams are extremely expensive for what they are. You mentioned knock off foams. I am at least curious to see where they may be available (I am in the US) and how much they might be.
2) Wondering, since I have significant easy to clean mechanical filtration elsewhere, if I could simply put a few nylon zippered filter bags filled with K1 in in place of the foams, and then only gently use the handle to clean on a regular basis. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Seth
Hi Seth, thanks for watching and commenting! Re non genuine filter foams- simply doing an online search for “filter foams for Oase filtoclear (add your filter model)” will throw up a mix of genuine and non genuine products (does in the UK in any case). Look for the cheapest ones and they’ll generally be unbranded replicas. As for replacing the filter media- great idea and in principle this could work however you wont be able to do any form of backwashing as such as there wont be any compression within the K1 media. The cleaning mechanism relies on compression of the filter foams- squeezing out muck which is flushed away.
Best regards,
Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thanks for the reply.
In the US, no generics show up, have been searching for some time. 🥺
Wasn't looking for compression, was just thinking the gentle pumping would loosen and allow the K1 to self clean .
Thanks again.
After watching this, I thought I'd change my foams in 10 minutes, Firstly I couldn't get UV out as the plunger wouldn't go down low enough & got in the way when I tried twisting top off! So then I took whole lot out, got the old foams off & new ones kept springing out again. Then struggled to get the whole thing to seat back in position. After an hour, I managed to get it back & set securing strap ok! My legs were strained for a couple of days afterwards & I'm not looking forward to repeating this job!! The old foams look ok & should come up good as new when I clean them up. This filter is last in line of 3 other filters & I use this just to get rid of fine stuff.
HI there, thanks for watching and commenting. Well done for managing to complete the full clean- its not difficult as such but there’s definitely a knack to it and it helps massively when you’re doing it as regularly as I am! One tip- if you find that the blue handles are in the way of twisting and removing the uvc ballast (as you say they often don’t relocate fully into their housing due to dirt and debris collecting in the recess) then pull the cleaning mechanism up (as if cleaning the filter foams) and this will provide the clearance required to then remove the uvc. In practise this is a little fiddly- one hand pulling on the lever and one hand pressing the blue uvc release button and twisting at the same time!! A second pair of hands can be useful here!
Well done in any case!
Best,
Ed
Great video, and very clear, yes I always struggle to get the lid back on and the locking strap thing, but get there eventually. What I am having problems with today, is getting the UV unit to click back in the top, have been trying for nearly two hours, but it wont click back into place, Any ideas what could be wrong?
Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear you’re having issues-could be worth trying to lift the cleaning handle with one hand and hold it high/clear of the uvc ballast/head. If the cleaning handle isn’t pushed all the way down to the bottom (and frequently it’s impossible to do so as debris gets caught in the mechanism) this gets in the way of twisting the uvc head around to its final closed position. Hope that works. If not remove the uvc and uv tube and first try replacing the uvc ballast like this. If it closes fully then reassemble with the uv tube and quartz sleeve and try again.
Good luck!
Best,
Ed
excellent video...It really helps me understand my filter better...thank you
Your welcome!
Hi
This was very helpful. Do you have a video for cleaning the pond vac?
Hi there! Thanks for watching and commenting- I currently don’t have any videos on maintaining/cleaning a pond vac-but perhaps something I’ll do in the future!
Thanks very much,
Best,
Ed
Just what I was looking for!
Thank you for a great video 👍🏼
Good to hear! Thanks very much for watching and commenting!
Best,
Ed
Hi Ed, I have two OASE live water pumps for my Koi pond. Since I moved in the house with this lovely Koi pond, the pumps have been working fine. Till last week I found the water level has dropped dramatically in last couple of days and then found out one of pumps are leaking water out of the blue handle areas. Any idea how to fix this leaking? Is that because of the rubber band installed in the blue / silver handles?? Many thanks in advance!
Hi there! Sorry to hear of your issues; could you please confirm if water is leaking from the blue rotary dial that you twist when performing a back wash, or if the leak is from one or both of the stainless steel rods that’s connected to the blue handle you pull when performing a back wash?
Best,
Ed
Thanks for this cleans mine today could not get my uv light holder off had to pull very hard yours went on one handed il try again if not il get you round to do it for me just kidding thanks👍🏴
HI Pauline, thanks for watching and your comment and sorry to hear you’ve had some troubles talking your filter apart. Which part exactly are you having difficulties removing-I’ll help (verbally!) where I can.
Best,
Ed
It was to change the uv light but I got it out was not pushing the blue tad in thanks for your help got it sorted now👍🏴
Hi ,thanks for the video 👍. I've recently stripped down and cleaned my filter and reassembled but seem to have air bubbles coming back through the inlet pipe back into my pond. I've checked for leaks and can't see anything... Do you think this could be a rubber seal around the lid pulling air into the system ? Thanks 👍
Hi there, won’t be a leak in the system-as this is pressurised it won’t suck in air but instead expel water through any leaks! Any bubbles you’re seeing in the pond exiting the return pipe is most likely resulting from trapped air within the filters foams and canister that are being forced out once the system is back on. You can help to remove any trapped air by opening the cleaning outlet with the system running (but keeping the blue rotary dial pointing in the usual filter operation) you’ll hear lots of gurgling as air is expelled and once water starts to dribble out you’ll have purged the system of most of the air. Don’t worry about it though, any remaining trapped air in the system will work its way through.
Best,
Ed
If you want to put bacterial in fhe filter.. You can put them in the uv section when you remove the unit? If i am right the pond water comes first passing the uv light en then thru the filtermedium to the outlet? Cant find the exact flow thru the filter on internet ..
Hi there! Great question-and one I’m
Not 100% sure I’m but now I will
Def check next time I take a filtoclear apart! I’m pretty certain however that water enters the unit around the uvc first and out of some outlets at the bottom of the uvc housing into the filter chamber itself. Water is then forced through the filter foams and through a perforated core that surrounds the uvc chamber and then flows to the top of the filter and to the outlet. You could therefore add filter aids to the unit by simply removing the quick release uvc ballast (although not so on the latest gen filtoclears) and add treatments directly here. Making sure to turn off the uvc for a couple of days to allow the bacteria to colonise away from the uvc rays.
Thanks for watching and your question!
Best,
Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics 👍it works .. Perfect way for adding bacterial in the filter ... Did it yesterday.. Also a good moment for uv glas cleaning. I dont use the uv light but clean is always better .. Got the 30000 just because i wanted a big filter .. Runs on a superfish eco 5000.. I prefer a bigger filter for less flushes.. Once a month now..
Hi,
Firstly very informative video.
I done all of this today, but for some reason I cannot get the lid to seal fully. I put the seal back on, push it all down and fit the collar. When I turn the pump on, it leaks out between the lid and base (in two points opposite eachother).
I inspected the seal and all seems good and well.
Any ideas or tips?
Thanks
Hi there! Sorry to hear of your issue- one I’ve been quizzed on on many an occasion! Unless there’s damage to the casing of the filter itself- which is extremely unlikely (although I have encountered this when a client of mine used screwdrivers to try and lever the lid off when it was stuck with muck, damaging the edges where the seal sits and the end result was a new filter canister was required)- the leak will almost certainly be as a result of the main filter seal not sitting in the correct position. In pushing the lid on you’ve probably pinched it. I would take it apart again, make sure all surfaces are clean, free of any dirt and debris and give a generous lube of silicon grease or vaseline to the sealing ring. When you re position this try to leave the seal so its sitting right at the top of the canister, rather then pushing it all the way down into the base of the recess. The idea is that as you locate the lid to the base once you apply some pressure to the lid the seal will roll down into the correct seating position once the lid is fully located. Then its a case of applying constant pressure to the lid (so it doesn’t spring back up- a knee is useful here!) and fitting the locking clamp. I find it easiest to start at the rear of the clamp where it hinges at the halfway point- once its correctly located apply a little more pressure to one side of the lid and work your way around pushing that side of clamp fully into position, then apply more pressure to the other half of the lid and locate the remaining half of the clamp. Ensure this is then closed fully- a couple of clicks can be felt as the clamp fits fully together, then slide the locking mechanism over to lock the clamp closed. If it leaks again repeat the above- but its really very rare when I reassemble these systems that water leaks out of where you’ve said, unless some surrounding plants/foliage may have got caught between the lid and the base during the reassembly.
Good luck and let me know how you get on!
Best,
Ed
Great video, so easy to follow and understand.
Thanks Martin!
Best,
Ed
Very informative with great attention to detail
Thanks for your kind words!
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks a lot
Thanks Anne!!
Best,
Ed
I like these because these keep the water cool when buried .
is there a "set" of gaskets or seals that need to be changed at the same time
HI there, thanks for your comment and my apologies for the slow response- in general no- the gaskets and seals will last many years before requiring replacement, just keep them clean and re lubricate after every service. As some point in time however you will need to replace the main filter head seal ring and the smaller and very thin seal ring between the uvc ballast and the filter lid.
Hope that helps!
Best,
Ed
REALLY GREAT LOAD OF INFORMATION...HOPE THIS WILL HELP AS SCARED TO HAVE A GO...THANKS.. ARE IN AUSTRALIA..N.S.W. EILEEN AN DAVID...
Hello to sunny Oz! Take it slow, keep everything clean and don’t forget to lube when re-assembling and you’ll be fine! Thank you for watching!
would you be kind to give me an advice in regard to the UV filter? How often needs to be changed? I had it replaced last year in August with another set of foams. At the moment is the end of April and the blue light is on - is that a guide to know if they still working or..they can go off even if the light is on? Also, do you recommend replacing the quartz sleeve too? Thank you very much in advance.
Hi there! It’s considered good practise to annually replace the uvc tube, regardless of whether it still ‘works’ (glowing blue/purple). This is because after a seasons use the amount of uvc radiation emitted from a used tube drops dramatically. The theory behind this is that during the spring months, ponds begin to warm , daylight hours increase and ponds go though a ‘spring algae bloom’. To counter act this having a new, full strength uvc tube running will help prevent such blooms and ensure clean, clear water for the remainder of the season. Hope this helps!
Sorry, forgot to mention the quartz sleeve! No, this doesn’t need to be replaced unless it is damaged. It’s worth while having a spare kept safe, just in case the worst happens and the sleeve gets damaged during a tube replacement. One last piece of advice- if even after a new tube your pond still remains green then I would almost certainly put money on this being because your uvc/filtration system is not large enough for your pond.
Good luck!
@@CrystalClearAquatics thank you muchly and kindly for your advice. And you are perfectly right. You already spot it :) The specialist that came last year said I have a little too many fishes in the pond which increases the need for a larger filer system. I think I will do that. In the meantime, I will replace the UV tube. Thank you greatly again.
Corina Moscu you’re welcome!
Thank you , very helpful...
You’re welcome!
I’m looking into the 8000 model but it comes with a 55 watt UVC. I’m worried the power of the filter + UV is too powerful for my pond. I think the filter Big is good but is the UV too much if my pond is less than 1000 gallons? Is 4,000 gph too much for a pond my size?
I like the filtoclear or all clear G2 but don’t know if the filter and pump is too big and if I need 55 watts of UV if it’s very sunny and we’ll stocked
Hi there, am guessing you’re not from the uk as the 8000 model you’re looking at is what I would know as the filtoclear 30000 which has the integrated 55w uvc. These are fantastic units! Regarding its size in relation to your pond volume; although you could manage with a smaller unit (depending on what your pond volume is as you’ve not specified this) you can’t over filter a pond. A larger unit will simply mean less maintenance/longer interludes between cleans- and a cleaner pond- which is a good thing! Likewise with the uvc- most manufactures massively over spec their products. Oase are more realistic then most, but do look at small print and ALWAYS base your pond on the full sun high fish stock examples on their charts. If you have the space to accommodate one and can afford to I would highly recommend going for such a unit. One thing to note is that if you’re overspecing the filter you don’t necessarily have to do the same with the pump. If you’re running a big filter on a small pond and the return is via a stream/cascade you may find the flow rates from the recommended pump for the larger model filter could be too large for you, creating Niagra falls! Better to purchase a larger then required filter/uvc and the correct sized pump or one with only a slighter larger then necessary flow rate.
Hope this helps and if you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Crystal Clear Aquatics so the 30000 one in this video is the same as the 8000 model in USA version?
I’m trying to build ponds around the 500 gallon area
Are my ponds too small for the 8000 model and 55 watt uv
With the vacuuming of the inside of the filter, is that vacuuming the water out? Mine is full of water and i'm not clear on whether i'm supposed to get rid of it or not. Thanks
Martine Cunningham
Yes, the idea is to vacuum out the chamber entirely-dirty water and sludge. If you leave the water in the canister once you’ve replaced/cleaned the foams much of this will get pumped back into the pond. If you haven’t got a vac removing the water is a little trickier-scoop it out with a little scoop or lift the canister out of the ground and tip it out.
Best,
Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thank you. I'm currently having trouble fitting the bit that holds the bulb back in place (the first thing you removed). For some reason it's not fitting back on 😥
Martine Cunningham good morning! Do you mean the quick release ballast/electrics that requires you to press the blue button to release? If so my advice would be to ensure both male and female surfaces are clean of debris and lightly
greased with some silicon grease or Vaseline. If you remember when removing this section you have to press the blue button, twist a little and the the electrics are removable. Replacement is in reverse-you have to offer the electrics back into their housing at an angle before you can push them gently and fully locate. You can then twist to lock. Sometime the blue cleaning handle gets in the way and stops you being able to do this-if you can’t push the handle all the way down enough to allow the electrics to locate correctly you can pull/lift the handle up to give you the required clearance. Hope this makes sense and don’t give up!
@@CrystalClearAquatics Thanks. I abandoned it overnight to be honest, but i'm going to have a go again today. I think a stone or something has slipped inside the hole you put this into as it is touching the bottom (don't know if that makes sense). I'm going to take the whole thing out again and start putting it back together again. I will try lifting the handle up though, thanks.
Martine Cunningham good luck, take you’re time and you’ll get there. Sounds like you’re just not offering up the electrics at the correct angle-they won’t drop down into place correctly unless offered up at this position.
Why do the foams go on alternately. Why can't they go from medium to fine? Would this not filter the muck better.
Too be honest not really sure, (am sure Oase technical would have the answer) although I’m guessing that as the water flows around the foams and through into the central core evenly- rather from top to bottom/bottom to top- there would be no way of channelling the water through different grades of foam, ie course to fine. Additionally the different grades of foam stacked alternately like this creates less resistance when trying to compress them via the cleaning mechanism.
Hello I was wondering where did you get the replacement bulb. I can't find it online
Cathal Walker hi there! Simply googling “Oase filtoclear replacement uvc tube” brings up lots of options. Here’s one link for you; www.bradshawsdirect.co.uk/oase-filtoclear-compatible-replacement-uv-bulbs
Hope that helps!
FYI: I took my foam out and rinsed it really good with hose...then put oneat a time in a bucket, and then then poured hot water from inside tap, over the foam and they spring right back into shape!!!!! And my foams were 100x worse than the ones in this video!!!! (Due to me being out of the country for 8 months, left the pond running)
Love that accent
Hello there I have tried to put the top part back on the bottom part but it is not going on and the collar won't click into place. The seal seems to be stopping it.
Cathal Walker Hi there, I’m afraid there is a bit of a knack and a certain amount of force involved in replacing the lid. The best advice I can give you is to remove the lid, the locking clamp and the rubber seal again and to ensure that all these parts are clean (see vid). Use some Silicon grease or vasaline and lubricate around the rim of the base of the filter and the rubber seal and then sit the seal into its correct position. Try and pull the seal up a little , rather then pushing it right down into the crease where it resides once the lid is on, as keeping it high helps the lid to go back on with less resistance-(the lid sort of rolls down over the seal.) Hold the lid above the base and gently lower it onto the base ensuring you are keeping it as square to the base as possible. Once mating the top push down with some weight (a knee kept on top helps!) and then begin to replace the locking clamp -which should have been previously cleaned also. Open the clamp and position it around the base, I find it easiest to have the hinge of the clamp furthest away from you and with your knee (or just pushing down with one hand) start by attaching the hinged/middle section of the clamp first and then you should be able to (again keeping weight on the lid of the filter) push one half of the clamp into position and then the other half. Again watch closely in the vid. I’m afraid it’s not easy to advise via txt but keep trying and you’ll get there. Most importantly: make sure everything is clean and that you’re using lube of some sort! Good luck!
How often are you supposed to change the UVC bulb?
Hi There! Although a uvc tube will often continue to operate for multiple years the amount of uv radiation emitted diminishes dramatically after even six months ‘burn’ time. It would be considered standard practice to renew a uvc tube every spring (regardless of whether it still lights up or not). Replacing the tube early in the season ensures that your filtration system is operating at full strength to combat the inevitable ‘spring algae bloom’ that blights most ponds during the early spring and summer months.
Hope this helps!
Best,
Ed
Did all this now pump not working. Any ideas what might be wrong?
Hmmmnn, many reasons I’m afraid- but my first port of call would be to disconnect the pump from any pipework and switch It on to see what happens. With it switched on hold the pump (submersed) in your hands- feel any vibrations? If so that confirms power is not an issue and most likely a blockage within the impeller. Dismantle the pump and clean, removing the impeller ideally and cleaning this and the impeller chamber also. A cheap toothbrush and some cotton earbuds are ideal here. Reassemble and switch on- if it runs reconnect pipework and you’re good to go. If you can’t feel any vibrations to the pump it’s still worth stripping and cleaning- if this doesn’t resolve the issue check fuses and electrical connections. If the pump was working before switching off to service the filter my money is on a blockage/dirty impeller and cleaning this will resolve the issue. Good luck and hope you get it going again.
Thankyou for your quick response which was very informative.Up and running now.
Very much appreciate your input.Regards,Basa
Barry Smith glad to hear it!
Every year? A good filter bacterial works after 1 year.. so why replace when it is just getting started.. check every year an replace only what is damaged and not all in one time
Hi there Jeffrey, thanks for watching and commenting! In general I would agree with you-replacing filter media wants to be done as infrequently as possible to ensure stability within the bacterial cultures that establish in filtration systems. However pressurised systems are a little different and unless meticulously maintained the pressures involved in the system (particularly so the older filtoclear models, although not so with the latest generation) cause the filter foams to compress and disfigure so much that filtration is massively compromised. Additionally such compression and clogging of the open cellular structure of the filter foams actually reduces surface area and inhibits nitrifying bacterial colonisation and so a complete filter media change is actually beneficial. Some would argue retaining one of the old foams and mixing this with the remaining new filter foams will help the new foams establish much faster- but in my experience in an established pond there is more then enough biologically going on in the pond that the new filters will establish fully in 4 to 6 weeks. It’s advisable to reduce feeding for the first couple of weeks after replacing the filter foams, but as generally this job is done early spring when the water temperatures are only just starting to rise this is a bit of a moot point, as feeding isn’t yet up to the quantities that summer water temperatures require.
Best regards,
Ed
@@CrystalClearAquatics thanks for you reply. I just got my first pressure filter .. i used to have flow thru filters and i didnt kwow that this needed to be done.. thanks for the advise.. i am going to check every spring en authum and do some maintenance..
Thankyou🙏