Pro tip old time engine builder told me. Offset the two piece seal in the cap. Push one side down about 1/8-1/4” and do the opposite on the other half. That way the ends of the seal aren’t at the crack of the block and cap. I’ve done this on every engine I’ve assembled and never had a leak. 👍
Great video I had my son watch your video to see how it is done on a 318 for his 1974 W-100 power Wagon he and his grandpa my father a engineer are doing his rebuild on his 318 and your videos help him learn a lot there engine rebuild work out great he got 322Hp with 357 lbs torque thank you for your videos U.S. Army retired sergeant major Gamsby
Use the left side pistons on the right bank, right side pistons on the left, such that the notches on top of the pistons point to the REAR, and the oil spurt holes on the rods point up into the block. Old school stuff, increases midrange torque. This was in the old Direct Connection books from back when.
Old guy engine tip. Put one of the oil ring rails, the thin ones that go either side of the oil ring, in the second or oil ring groove, then use the piston crown to square the ring in the bore to check end gap. You want to measure below the ring grove at the top of the cylinder, which is why you use the second or third ring on the piston and the thin rails. The rails are easy to put on and take off, or you can use one from a junk piston. Most of the engines I build have between 4.12" and 4.21" bores, so I have some 455 (4.15") rails sitting around to do it. I like the tapered ring compressors, worth the investment if you are building the same size bores often. Just for one engine, its kinda overkill if you can get the type you used cheap.
I used to use baby oil to remove plastigage residue when assembling a bottom end. Works great and doesn't hurt the new bearing shell or crank surface. A small amount on a microfiber cloth or equivalent works just fine. Keep up the good video content!
Thank you for a good video. I always learn from you each time. Hole in the piston on the Valiant. That will definitely make it run weird. I like that you stay busy. Be consistent and a little at a time. Do you have three engine blocks now? yes, also super glad you said that. You are just building things in your garage and it may not be the best. You are doing it. Haters going to hate. Just keep doing your best and build. Many people wish they were doing what you are. Your builds are just right the way they are. Proud of you! Proud of the channel! Keep it up Alex!
the best ring you can use is chrome-moly and the 3-way hone is particular by direct connection builder book, but have always got the best use with hp motors, a lot of people don't use them because of the wear to the cylinders but have never had an issue with good maintains and tearing the motor down at the right interval, I like your thought process great day in shipping, make sure you turn the crank once a week if it is going to set the 318 that is great day friend and content was great ,
Awesome Videos!! I saved all 3, I have a 72 Dodge D100 with a Stock 318. Still running good, but I know ill have to pull it and door a garage rebuild at some point. dealing with some low RPM sputtering so I just ordered all new plugs, Cap rotor and will double check the timing. Thanks again for the videos keep them coming.
New subscriber here. Been watching all your vids. I'm starting on my 84 D150.. Your videos changed my mind on a hemi swap. So thank you for that. I figure if I can go 12's with a 5.9 build and save money, I'm ALL IN! My truck is a reg cab short bed, leaning tower of no power, 4 spd manual and 8.25 rear end. Could you possibly do a video on how to ID a 9.25 rear end?? Thanks a ton for the videos. Love both the rides brother.
8.25 rear has little ears on each side than hang below the metal gear cover. 9.25 doesnt. 8.25 gear cover also is round looking, while the 9.25s looks like a stop sign.
Pretty cool man! Just make sure to check your crankshaft endplay after bolting down the main caps. Usually the spec will be perfect on the tighter side with new bearings and if the thrust surfaces on the crank are good. But endplay must always be checked! You can still check it with the rods and pistons installed! :]
Sounds like the Valiant gets a freshened up 360 and you have a 318 for your truck like you originally wanted to do. Either way you have plenty of options to get things running again. I haven't watched the whole video yet in case anything changes while I'm typing but good job so far and sounds like life is going well now 👍
My truck is the same color I have a 1987 3/4 ton Sno Commander. I bought it off the original owner he ordered it with Dana 60 front and back with a 205 transfer case. It has 70000 original miles on it
12.70 is a respectable ET for a small block pickup truck, not bad! Wonder who the lucky guy being surprised with a McLaren is? One father's day I went for a bike ride and stopped to chat w a fella washing his toys; a 6 pack 4 spd Roadrunner and some kind of McLaren. He liked em both but said the Roadrunner was more fun to drive.
I only ran 1/4 on the first day out and it ran a 12.41. It was way out of tune then. I later had it running 7.98 in the 1/8th. I was nowhere near a 1/4 mile track back then.
@@TheGasTap We used to check bore taper by measuring ring gap at the top of ring travel, then again at the bottom of ring travel. There used to be a formula to convert to taper, but I forget now.
What is the best high performance cam for the Magnum mine is a 92 and heads can't i take the heads off and have them bord out or no trying to get more hp it's stock now can i switch to carb
Looks nice, put the torque wrench on the crank bolt and record the amount of effort it takes to turn the crank, we used to call the number “drag” . I keep track of that number on each engine I build. I think the factory assembled LS series Corvette engines are about 15 lbs/ feet. Typical 318 is about 45. If assembled with all original parts. I’m enjoying your series.
@@TheGasTap 10-4, you didn’t strike me as the type of guy that would thrive in that environment. I appreciate the content man. By far my favorite channel.
Pro tip old time engine builder told me. Offset the two piece seal in the cap. Push one side down about 1/8-1/4” and do the opposite on the other half. That way the ends of the seal aren’t at the crack of the block and cap. I’ve done this on every engine I’ve assembled and never had a leak. 👍
Great video I had my son watch your video to see how it is done on a 318 for his 1974 W-100 power Wagon he and his grandpa my father a engineer are doing his rebuild on his 318 and your videos help him learn a lot there engine rebuild work out great he got 322Hp with 357 lbs torque thank you for your videos U.S. Army retired sergeant major Gamsby
Great basic short block assembly video.
this is the best video i've seen on the basic assembly of a short block! thanks!
Use the left side pistons on the right bank, right side pistons on the left, such that the notches on top of the pistons point to the REAR, and the oil spurt holes on the rods point up into the block. Old school stuff, increases midrange torque. This was in the old Direct Connection books from back when.
That is about to be tested on the dyno on another TH-cam channel. I’m interested to see the outcome.
Great builds
All the best Buddy youl get there mate cheers.
Old guy engine tip. Put one of the oil ring rails, the thin ones that go either side of the oil ring, in the second or oil ring groove, then use the piston crown to square the ring in the bore to check end gap. You want to measure below the ring grove at the top of the cylinder, which is why you use the second or third ring on the piston and the thin rails. The rails are easy to put on and take off, or you can use one from a junk piston. Most of the engines I build have between 4.12" and 4.21" bores, so I have some 455 (4.15") rails sitting around to do it.
I like the tapered ring compressors, worth the investment if you are building the same size bores often. Just for one engine, its kinda overkill if you can get the type you used cheap.
A lot going on there. Nice video.
good work , moving onward and forward with beg red and mr. jones
Look'n Good !!
You are a busy guy.....
Keep up the Good Stuff
The Magnum King.
I used to use baby oil to remove plastigage residue when assembling a bottom end. Works great and doesn't hurt the new bearing shell or crank surface. A small amount on a microfiber cloth or equivalent works just fine.
Keep up the good video content!
Great builds! VERY anxious to see what kind of times Big Red will put down with the 318. Good stuff!
Thank you for a good video. I always learn from you each time. Hole in the piston on the Valiant. That will definitely make it run weird. I like that you stay busy. Be consistent and a little at a time. Do you have three engine blocks now? yes, also super glad you said that. You are just building things in your garage and it may not be the best. You are doing it. Haters going to hate. Just keep doing your best and build. Many people wish they were doing what you are. Your builds are just right the way they are. Proud of you! Proud of the channel! Keep it up Alex!
Thanks.
318 & 360 on engine stands then 360’s in the Valiant and D150.
Going to be interesting comparison. I am rooting for the 318 to do well.
clocking the rings on install is important Alex . Great share ENJOYED !!
Good vid.... busy day... I could watch this stuff for hours.
Awesome 😎
the best ring you can use is chrome-moly and the 3-way hone is particular by direct connection builder book, but have always got the best use with hp motors, a lot of people don't use them because of the wear to the cylinders but have never had an issue with good maintains and tearing the motor down at the right interval, I like your thought process great day in shipping, make sure you turn the crank once a week if it is going to set the 318 that is great day friend and content was great ,
Nice progress!
Awesome job been so long since I took a engine down love the work run that thing
Awesome Videos!! I saved all 3, I have a 72 Dodge D100 with a Stock 318. Still running good, but I know ill have to pull it and door a garage rebuild at some point. dealing with some low RPM sputtering so I just ordered all new plugs, Cap rotor and will double check the timing. Thanks again for the videos keep them coming.
Put the oil ring on the piston to use it as ring squaring tool. Then just push the ring down until the oil ring stops the piston.
Push them down about 1/3 down where the bore is narrower then measure and fit ring end gap.
New subscriber here. Been watching all your vids. I'm starting on my 84 D150.. Your videos changed my mind on a hemi swap. So thank you for that. I figure if I can go 12's with a 5.9 build and save money, I'm ALL IN! My truck is a reg cab short bed, leaning tower of no power, 4 spd manual and 8.25 rear end. Could you possibly do a video on how to ID a 9.25 rear end?? Thanks a ton for the videos. Love both the rides brother.
Thanks for the support!!
Big Red is pretty quick for what I would call ( no offense) a basic combination.
Very basic. Cam, intake, stock heads lightly massaged. 🤙🏼
8.25 rear has little ears on each side than hang below the metal gear cover. 9.25 doesnt. 8.25 gear cover also is round looking, while the 9.25s looks like a stop sign.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 Thank you
Pretty cool man! Just make sure to check your crankshaft endplay after bolting down the main caps. Usually the spec will be perfect on the tighter side with new bearings and if the thrust surfaces on the crank are good. But endplay must always be checked! You can still check it with the rods and pistons installed! :]
Sounds like the Valiant gets a freshened up 360 and you have a 318 for your truck like you originally wanted to do. Either way you have plenty of options to get things running again. I haven't watched the whole video yet in case anything changes while I'm typing but good job so far and sounds like life is going well now 👍
I think the 318 will run right around 13.10 in Big Red. I figure 42 less cubes will be around 4 tenths slower. Can't wait to see how it runs!
I’m going to try to keep it in the 12’s 🤞🏼🤞🏼
put the oil ring n first and that will help square the piston
Good stuff and nice dog!!!!! Just subbed!!!
Thanks!!!
My truck is the same color I have a 1987 3/4 ton Sno Commander. I bought it off the original owner he ordered it with Dana 60 front and back with a 205 transfer case. It has 70000 original miles on it
12.70 is a respectable ET for a small block pickup truck, not bad! Wonder who the lucky guy being surprised with a McLaren is? One father's day I went for a bike ride and stopped to chat w a fella washing his toys; a 6 pack 4 spd Roadrunner and some kind of McLaren. He liked em both but said the Roadrunner was more fun to drive.
Awesome!!
😎👍🏁
Do you use the aftermarket timing tensioner on the magnums? I've been happy with it since I've been using them.
I have one on Big Red. We’ll see how it looks when I pull the engine out 🤙🏼
I bought one for the 318 in my Dart but never installed it. Awesome idea that should have been a factory part installed originally.
Always wondered how they lasted. Good to know
Where did you get that little work table with the rod clamp, etc from? That would be a great thing to have!
Mike
I got you!!!
th-cam.com/video/M_EGW_UxWSQ/w-d-xo.html
Keep up the good work. What gears do you run in big red? To get into the 12s
3.55 gears in all my vehicles.
You going to try to do anything to get the compression up?
No. The heads were shaved a little.
That D100 is running 12's in the 1/4 you say?
Yes 👍🏼
That old Dakota race truck you use to have. How fast was that in the quarter mile?
I only ran 1/4 on the first day out and it ran a 12.41. It was way out of tune then. I later had it running 7.98 in the 1/8th. I was nowhere near a 1/4 mile track back then.
Did you check the bore taper on all the cylinders to make sure they were good and round before honing?
No. I don’t have a bore gauge.
@@TheGasTap We used to check bore taper by measuring ring gap at the top of ring travel, then again at the bottom of ring travel. There used to be a formula to convert to taper, but I forget now.
You think the 318 will be faster? I think it might !
Why don’t you open a Amazon list. Maybe some of us would buy you some tools. Thanks for sharing
I’ll work on that. Thanks for your support!!
What is the best high performance cam for the Magnum mine is a 92 and heads can't i take the heads off and have them bord out or no trying to get more hp it's stock now can i switch to carb
There is no one best cam. Call Hughes engines and have them match the cam to your vehicle. That’s the best cam!!
Looks nice, put the torque wrench on the crank bolt and record the amount of effort it takes to turn the crank, we used to call the number “drag” . I keep track of that number on each engine I build. I think the factory assembled LS series Corvette engines are about 15 lbs/ feet. Typical 318 is about 45. If assembled with all original parts. I’m enjoying your series.
Thank you
Valiant for sale (not mine):
facebook.com/marketplace/item/457542498673938/
Bout how long did it take to rebuild the engine? I drive an 84 D150 with the 318 and considering rebuilding it or swapping it
A full day. 8hrs or so.
Forgot to set your thrust bearing?
It’s good.
You cover a slant six yet?
No but if the channel grows, there will be /6 build.
@@TheGasTap Cool!
P11
?
Are you in law enforcement?
Not anymore. I did 12 yrs and hated it. th-cam.com/video/6vYYm57-KIU/w-d-xo.html
@@TheGasTap 10-4, you didn’t strike me as the type of guy that would thrive in that environment. I appreciate the content man. By far my favorite channel.
Just because I didn't like it doesn't mean I wasn't one of the best. I was the guy the supervisors never worried about.