It's great to watch someone with infinite patience. Those caps (in fact most SMD components) are a PITA for those of us with big hands and cheap soldering stations ;-)
Thank You very much for the video. I bought a used C528a from a friend many years ago but it still seems to be working well electronically but the outside case needs a lot of help. For instance all the screws are missing and is held together with cable ties. But with your video I hopefully with keep it working for many more years. Keep the excellent videos coming. 73's
Nice work as usual Peter. ESR tables of "goodness" vary I suppose because of different manufacturers, materials etc., but lower is always better! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thank you Dino. The best what we can do when it comes to ESR is using the manufactures data sheets. All what we find on the web can only be an indication. But anyway if we have ERR's of 500 Ohm and higher then of course it it obvious. 73
I have cleaned many conductive silicon key-pads with alcohol and a soft tissue. Oxidation will build up on the conductive surface of the silicone key-pad as well as the gold plated foil on the pcb. I cleaned them both and the key-pads work like new.
Another great repair Peter. I enjoyed watching a season tech work with such fine delicate circuits. When I worked for EF Johnson we repair many Standard products back then. Fine quality units. As always thanks for sharing. 73
Another great video. I liked the tantalum replacement tactic - worth pointing out to the audience that tantalum have the bar or mark at the positive end (historically a + symbol) while electrolytic have the bar at the negative end and often no positive symbol . You of course swapped them over correctly but just referring to the original photo there is a danger of a beginner putting them back wrong despite the board being marked +. The isopropyl alcohol cleanup is also good but with some of the new soft touch plastics I find it produces a truly horrible smell and a headache. For safety now the back yard is best on fancy plastic !
Glad you are observing your ESD protection (of course, you did observe ESD protection whilst working in all your other videos, didn't you?)! LOL!! :) Warmest regards, Wayne and Nina.
If I'm doing a repair job for myself, then I do not worry about ESD quite so much. But if, like you, I am repairing for someone else then ESD is of paramount importance. At some time, as and if you get time to do so, could you do a brief video on workbench electrical safety. A very good friend of ours lost his life recently due to accidental electrocution. Work bench health and safety CANNOT be stressed enough. Wayne and Nina.
Oh no, another "golden screwdriver" has left his mark once again, along with Mr. Spider. How do you distinguish flux from leaky electrolytic??? This goes as more of a restoration rather than a fix. Great job on that radio. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
bonjour maestro I hope you are doing well . my friend gave me the standard c528 2/ 440 version and I had to fix a lot of things including that little lithium battery for the memories . here in the USA we can not find any service for this radio . they company that did service for standard refuses to do any work on standard because it's too old ! no parts for it . sehr schlecht ! it's too bad cause the older radio's have a very good front end like a commercial motorola portable radio . I had 2 repeaters in new york city a long time ago and I only used standard and motorola ht1000 on uhf . my second repeater was on the world trade center and my main was in jamaica queens ny. talk to you later my friend 73's ah yeah , I hate the new Chinese radio!
Maybe this will work for the capacitors hard up against the plastic sockets. Use braid to de-solder the pads where you have room so the caps are free on one side. Then use a super long and thin tip to go in via the back/side and just touch the pad to melt the solder. Whilst this is done pull on the cap so it comes free. The hot tweezers you used look great but maybe a bit big for this project.
Thank you so much, great information. I have a beautiful condition C528 which is doing exactly the same, quiet audio output. After your great talkthrough, I will replace the capacitors in mine. I also have a Standard C5608D which until a few days was working correctly. I turned it on yesterday, the squelch was open and the volume was quite high, white noise was emitted from the speaker and I couldn't seem to lower the volume, so I turned off the PSU to stop the noise and unpower the radio. I turned the volume down on the radio's two volume controls, set the squelch closed and pressed the power button an the radio, (PSU had been turned back on) and nothing. It will not power up at all. Have checked fuses in lead all ok. I wonder if you have any ideas please ?
Excellent, I have two C528 radios neither of which power up. I am suspecting the back up battery but Once I get my bench clear I will also do a capacitor replacement. I wish I had the C620 for 23cms that would be great. Anyway thank you very much for the video it has given me a prod to do something with them. As for the batteries yes they are all flat and unchargeable so I will have to look out for replacements. With that in mind did you find a source for replacement batteries? Thanks again Mark G0NMY
Good morning Sir, i own the C558 transmitter. After a long period of inactivity (I had left it running) I find myself with a weak VHF transmission and an absent UKF transmission. Power is ok. The problem could be the deterioration of the electrolytic capacitors or there is something else, but apart from the failure that I will probably eventually commission from some expert shop I wanted to take it apart. I got to work but I had to stop because on the main body of the apparatus I cannot already remove the first board because it is not possible to remove the squelch controls on the top of the apparatus. I'm afraid of pulling too hard and causing damage. Do you by chance know how to give me directions or do you have any manual or assembly method for this device so as not to go blind and avoid damage? Thank you very much for any help. Devid
Well done. You definitely caught it just in time. Is this the same Standard as in Vertex Standard? I never heard of the company before. Those electrolytics will be the downfall of many vintage electronics in the years to come.
Well they started as standard and later they were taken over by vertex and later by Motorola... Here a short history view.. The Standard Radio Corporation was established in Setagaya, Tokyo, Japan in 1953 when they began manufacturing portable tube radios. In 1957 they manufactured their first transistor radio, the ultra rare SR-F31. In 1959 a new factory was built in Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan and this became the company's headquarters. Some papers from around 1962 (SR-H25) show the address "No. 11, 1-Chome Ebisu-Minami Shibuya-Ku, Tokyo. In 1965 Standard released the first of its very successful line of Micronic Ruby miniature radios. In March of 1975, Standard Radio Corporation changed its name to Marantz Japan, Inc.
Hi, I have to solder a new internal lithium battery in my Standard C500: (there is not a battery holder as in this video) do you know which type? (I mean the code).TNX. 73s.
A very nice repair as usual. maybe a bit more cleaning at the end but I am fussy. What amazes me is how people put equipment on ebay without cleaning anything at all. A real turn off and I am sure loses them a ton of money.
Can you recommend any way to restore keypad carbon contacts when the carbon has been wiped away? I have several remotes which have been "cleaned" and now hardly work. What do you do in these cases?
amazing skills! I wonder if it is possible to identify the fault on my Vertex Standard 220, the radio just won't turn on, after a few years of being unused ... I just don't know where to start the inspection, I've already disassembled the radio, but everything seems "ok".
Late reply, but did you try the reset button? It's a small indentation in the gray rubber on the right side, under were the wrist strap is. You'll need a pen or something small.
Sir, help me. I have problem for my standard c520 when transmit at frequency below 143 not out power but its information "OFF". How is the solution sir?
You are not allowed to use it out of the amateur-radio bands. This transceiver is for amateur-radio. In what part of the world 143 MHz and below are amateur-radio bands ?
I want to know if you have any information on the touch pads for the contacts and can you use carbon dust to repair the keypads ? I have have tried using the lead from a pencil to get the contact pads to make contact on the bottom of the rubber buttons and it worked for a few times but I am thinking that the dust would be better .
It's great to watch someone with infinite patience. Those caps (in fact most SMD components) are a PITA for those of us with big hands and cheap soldering stations ;-)
Thank you. Yes good tools are key for this work....
Great repair Peter. As always thanks for sharing. 73
Very well done. An excellent repair with such tiny components. You have great skills.
Thank You very much for the video. I bought a used C528a from a friend many years ago but it still seems to be working well electronically but the outside case needs a lot of help. For instance all the screws are missing and is held together with cable ties. But with your video I hopefully with keep it working for many more years. Keep the excellent videos coming. 73's
Hi Tim, glad that the video was helpful to you! Thanks for feed-back 73
Nice work as usual Peter. ESR tables of "goodness" vary I suppose because of different manufacturers, materials etc., but lower is always better! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thank you Dino. The best what we can do when it comes to ESR is using the manufactures data sheets. All what we find on the web can only be an indication. But anyway if we have ERR's of 500 Ohm and higher then of course it it obvious. 73
You make it look easy. HT's are not easy to work on, it is meticulous work. Great video.
Well to have the right tools is key..Thanks for watching 73
I have cleaned many conductive silicon key-pads with alcohol and a soft tissue. Oxidation will build up on the conductive surface of the silicone key-pad as well as the gold plated foil on the pcb. I cleaned them both and the key-pads work like new.
Another great repair Peter. I enjoyed watching a season tech work with such fine delicate circuits. When I worked for EF Johnson we repair many Standard products back then. Fine quality units. As always thanks for sharing. 73
Thank you Buddy, yeah it was delicate but worth to do it. You are right fine quality units...
Very interesting. love your work Peter. 73
Glad that you like it Jim! Thanks for feed-back 73
Well done - great restoration
Another great video. I liked the tantalum replacement tactic - worth pointing out to the audience that tantalum have the bar or mark at the positive end (historically a + symbol) while electrolytic have the bar at the negative end and often no positive symbol . You of course swapped them over correctly but just referring to the original photo there is a danger of a beginner putting them back wrong despite the board being marked +.
The isopropyl alcohol cleanup is also good but with some of the new soft touch plastics I find it produces a truly horrible smell and a headache. For safety now the back yard is best on fancy plastic !
Thanks for the additional contribution.. We never can collect enough hints here :^) Thanks for watching 73
Great work again, great videos, thank you Peter
Thank you Dennis
Another great restoration.
Nice repair Peter big thumbs up my friend
Thanks for watching Allan 73
wow..nice and creative...very interesting Thanks and 73's
Thanks for feed-back Thomas 73
Thank you for your nice presentation, whose usefulness is given.
Thanks for watching glad that you liked it 73
Another great video my friend keep up the good work!
Thank you 73
Excellent video Peter!!!
Thank you Jerry 73
Glad you are observing your ESD protection (of course, you did observe ESD protection whilst working in all your other videos, didn't you?)! LOL!! :) Warmest regards, Wayne and Nina.
Hi Nina, absolutely right. ESD protection should never be underestimated! Thanks for watching 73
If I'm doing a repair job for myself, then I do not worry about ESD quite so much. But if, like you, I am repairing for someone else then ESD is of paramount importance. At some time, as and if you get time to do so, could you do a brief video on workbench electrical safety. A very good friend of ours lost his life recently due to accidental electrocution. Work bench health and safety CANNOT be stressed enough. Wayne and Nina.
Oh no, another "golden screwdriver" has left his mark once again, along with Mr. Spider. How do you distinguish flux from leaky electrolytic??? This goes as more of a restoration rather than a fix. Great job on that radio. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
it looks different under UV light...
bonjour maestro
I hope you are doing well .
my friend gave me the standard c528 2/ 440 version
and I had to fix a lot of things including that little
lithium battery for the memories .
here in the USA we can not find any service for this
radio . they company that did service for standard refuses
to do any work on standard because it's too old ! no parts for it . sehr schlecht !
it's too bad cause the older radio's have a very good
front end like a commercial motorola portable radio .
I had 2 repeaters in new york city a long time ago
and I only used standard and motorola
ht1000 on uhf . my second repeater was
on the world trade center and my main was in jamaica queens ny.
talk to you later my friend
73's
ah yeah , I hate the new Chinese radio!
Very interesting story Fred! Thanks for sharing 73
Nice polo shirt too! 73’s Lynton
Maybe this will work for the capacitors hard up against the plastic sockets. Use braid to de-solder the pads where you have room so the caps are free on one side. Then use a super long and thin tip to go in via the back/side and just touch the pad to melt the solder. Whilst this is done pull on the cap so it comes free. The hot tweezers you used look great but maybe a bit big for this project.
The right tools and a bit experience are key to mange jobs like this.. Thanks for watching 73
It's really nice.. Good job!
Thank you Dimas
Have you seen the black point on the white fuse, approx down right at 43:54 !? ....you are like a radio surgeon, very good. '73.
Yeah but nothing serious Alessandro. Thanks for feed back!
Thank you. A wonderful job.
Glad that you like it 73
enjoy your programme much learning
Glad that you like it! Thanks for watching 73
much learning by step by step approach I have an interest in electronics for many years since my early teens :)
interesting repair thanks for shareing
Thanks for watching Mike
Thank you so much, great information. I have a beautiful condition C528 which is doing exactly the same, quiet audio output. After your great talkthrough, I will replace the capacitors in mine. I also have a Standard C5608D which until a few days was working correctly. I turned it on yesterday, the squelch was open and the volume was quite high, white noise was emitted from the speaker and I couldn't seem to lower the volume, so I turned off the PSU to stop the noise and unpower the radio. I turned the volume down on the radio's two volume controls, set the squelch closed and pressed the power button an the radio, (PSU had been turned back on) and nothing. It will not power up at all. Have checked fuses in lead all ok. I wonder if you have any ideas please ?
Excellent, I have two C528 radios neither of which power up. I am suspecting the back up battery but Once I get my bench clear I will also do a capacitor replacement. I wish I had the C620 for 23cms that would be great. Anyway thank you very much for the video it has given me a prod to do something with them. As for the batteries yes they are all flat and unchargeable so I will have to look out for replacements. With that in mind did you find a source for replacement batteries?
Thanks again Mark G0NMY
Hi Mark, thanks for feed-back! No no source for batteries you have to take the old housing apart. Good luck with the project! 73
Peter. How do these compare with their smaller brethren such as the C568A?
terrific job from one tech to another.
Michel vk3kvw.
Thank you Michel
I have a few Vertex mobile units, well made radios.
You are right very fine quality. Thanks for watching
thank you
Thanks for watching
I have a c558a similar thats still working fine... where did u get the components? I might replace them in mine.
Good morning Sir, i own the C558 transmitter. After a long period of inactivity (I had left it running) I find myself with a weak VHF transmission and an absent UKF transmission. Power is ok. The problem could be the deterioration of the electrolytic capacitors or there is something else, but apart from the failure that I will probably eventually commission from some expert shop I wanted to take it apart. I got to work but I had to stop because on the main body of the apparatus I cannot already remove the first board because it is not possible to remove the squelch controls on the top of the apparatus. I'm afraid of pulling too hard and causing damage. Do you by chance know how to give me directions or do you have any manual or assembly method for this device so as not to go blind and avoid damage?
Thank you very much for any help. Devid
Well done. You definitely caught it just in time. Is this the same Standard as in Vertex Standard? I never heard of the company before. Those electrolytics will be the downfall of many vintage electronics in the years to come.
zepplinc20 I believe it became vertex standard when yaesu took over.
Well they started as standard and later they were taken over by vertex and later by Motorola...
Here a short history view..
The Standard Radio Corporation was established
in Setagaya, Tokyo, Japan in 1953 when they began manufacturing portable
tube radios. In 1957 they manufactured their first transistor radio,
the ultra rare SR-F31. In 1959 a new factory was built in Sagamihara,
Kanagawa, Japan and this became the company's headquarters. Some papers
from around 1962 (SR-H25) show the address "No. 11, 1-Chome Ebisu-Minami
Shibuya-Ku, Tokyo. In 1965 Standard released the first of its very
successful line of Micronic Ruby miniature radios. In March of 1975,
Standard Radio Corporation changed its name to Marantz Japan, Inc.
ciao per alimentarlo esterno che voltaggio ci vuole perche non ho la batteria gli ho messo 8v ma mi fanno un difetto ora le giro un video grazie
Hi, I have to solder a new internal lithium battery in my Standard C500: (there is not a battery holder as in this video) do you know which type? (I mean the code).TNX. 73s.
Hi Peter. Did you replace the backup battery before you put the radio back together? Great video. You are the Master. John C.
The battery was tested fine must have been a quite new one..Thanks for feed back John 73
keep up the good work from n1qxn thank you
A very nice repair as usual. maybe a bit more cleaning at the end but I am fussy. What amazes me is how people put equipment on ebay without cleaning anything at all. A real turn off and I am sure loses them a ton of money.
some people are swine, I agree w/you too, take care of your stuff so it can take care of you
LOL yes for showcase use it must be cleaned a bit better. Thanks for watching
Can you recommend any way to restore keypad carbon contacts when the carbon has been wiped away? I have several remotes which have been "cleaned" and now hardly work. What do you do in these cases?
Where are you located
amazing skills! I wonder if it is possible to identify the fault on my Vertex Standard 220, the radio just won't turn on, after a few years of being unused ... I just don't know where to start the inspection, I've already disassembled the radio, but everything seems "ok".
Late reply, but did you try the reset button? It's a small indentation in the gray rubber on the right side, under were the wrist strap is. You'll need a pen or something small.
Sir, help me. I have problem for my standard c520 when transmit at frequency below 143 not out power but its information "OFF". How is the solution sir?
You are not allowed to use it out of the amateur-radio bands. This transceiver is for amateur-radio. In what part of the world 143 MHz and below are amateur-radio bands ?
Peter du ich hab die Standart Handfunke nur haben sich die Caps verabschiedet :-( top Funke ever wenn sie läuft .
I thought you might have removed the cable sockets to replace the caps.
Well here and there a bit delicate but manageable. Thanks for watching
I want to know if you have any information on the touch pads for the contacts and can you use carbon dust to repair the keypads ? I have have tried using the lead from a pencil to get the contact pads to make contact on the bottom of the rubber buttons and it worked for a few times but I am thinking that the dust would be better .
There are repair kits on the market which wokrs quite good. simply search for it ...
KOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL!
Thanks for watching 73
A bit funny how you say the word "tantalum". How about polymer electrolytic capacitors?
LOL well polymer would probably sound funny in your ears as well hihi.
the knobs are coated in rubber on these radios.
ciao ma lalimentazione esterna di quanto e percheio metto 8v senza batteria grazie
I'm sorry Luigi, I do not understand what you mean even with the google translator.
"... ol' ze ships ... " ?!?!?!
Great Radio RESTORE !! Super work done on this unit !! ------------------ John A Bellas ------------ KC2UVN
Thank you John! 73