Nice job. I have a 7491 and came up with a more complex variation on this. I actually filled the extrusion cavity because clamps were causing deflection. I then added a top and back support. Now i can clamp or attach anything to it and still use the original fence surface.
excellent. I don't have your saw but I learned something. I never saw anyone clamp a guide on a saw like that to make a cut like that. That is such a good idea.
Having watched your unboxing of this saw I went and bought one myself. I have to say it is a thing of beauty! Thank you for the review. I’ll be making a work station for it soon as well as a cross cut sled. Next will be one of these fences as we can’t get dado stacks in the uk apparently so rebates are tricky unless I use my router. Great work Eric. Thank you.
Good choice! Also, check out the stabilizer bar (the smaller bar) on the other side of the fence. It flips around and provides stability for wider rips. I almost missed this bit in the user manual. It will come in handy for sheet goods and cutting thin strips.
Thank you, @Eric Sorensen. I recently bought the Skilsaw 8 1/4" wormdrive saw with the same type of rack and pinion gearing for the fence (a feature that attracted me to the saw in the first place, plus, of course, the worm drive.). I have a very similar fence and was a bit frustrated when I realized that I could not clamp an auxiliary fence to it because of the flip-around it has on the backside of the fence for holding sheet stock. Thank you for the great idea/design! You have solved my dilemma. That was worth the like AND the subscribe. Well Done!!
Good idea. It reminds me that I need to make myself a taller fence for rebate joints and also to make a taller fence for my bandsaw. I noticed that you aren’t using a zero clearance insert on your table saw. I try to use one as much as possible because I believe that it helps with dust control as well controlling small pieces so that they don’t drop into the blade.
Ah yes, I may have to break down and make a zero clearance for this saw, however, the dust collection will be useless if I do. I'm really all about better dust collection these days. It's a trade off - I know.
Enjoyed the video, I bought myself the same saw mostly for the fence. It already boxes above its weight. I think I'll give the extension a go. Cheers 👍
WOW, you may have just solved something for me. As you look at the Dewalt, I've placed a Router insert to the left of it, planning on using the Dewalt Fence for the fence of the router plate. Your idea will be awesome for doing that, but I need to figure out how allow an opening for the router bit, and install a dust collector hose to it. Thanks for the insight.
I made a long fence with an infeed surface that slides over the whole fence assembly. Works well as it's primarily putting pressure at the supported ends of the rotating fence piece. I also made another wide U-Shaped aux. fence as I have a router table extension to the right of the blade on my 40" x 40" home-made table saw table and I use the saw's fence for supporting that with clamps at the back. No problem with 3/4 plywood and plenty of gusseting
Great concept, Eric. I’m in the process of building your table saw cart (well, my version of it, anyway!) and was wondering how I was going to cut the rabbets for the drawers. Since this is a utilitarian piece of shop furniture, I don’t want to take the time to do hand tool joinery on these drawers. I built my fence 7 inches tall using 3/4” MDF with a paste wax surface to reduce friction, as I don’t have any sacrificial IKEA furniture lying around. It works great. Thanks again!
Fantastic work, Eric! Nicely done! 😃 My table saw is a Stanley, but I didn't even assembled it yet, so I don't know how is the fence. 😬 I'm still waiting for some parts for my dust collection system, so I didn't bother... LOL But this week I'm going to see about that and I'm going to make something like what you done! 😃 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What a great idea/design, well done! I noticed that clever little hand planer table setup also! Great idea, I need to do that! Thanks and cheers from MT
Thanks Steve! Most of the compact and job site saws won't accept a dado stack. Of course if I was able to use one, the whole operation could be done with just the cross-cut fence. But this set-up works great for me in my little shop. Cheers🙂
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks for the video. The reason you chose not to use the crosscut sled for rabbet joints is because it's faster your way and less cleanup of the little v grooves when using ATB saw blades? Trying to understand logic.
The crosscut sled will work great for narrow / frame parts. When maneuvering longer / wider boards, it is much easier to use the aux fence. More stability, more surface area to use as a guide.
I haven't run into this issue yet. My aux fence is just snug enough to stay put, but won't dent the aluminium. I don't know if there is much you can do once you've dented it. If your saw is still under warranty, I would take is back and get a new one. Otherwise you can probably find an OEM fence on Amazon.
@@EricSorensenCanada Is it possible to exchange the aluminum main fence beam for a steel one? (assuming all of the dimensions were similar to the OEM aluminum fence...)
It would be pretty involved....You could try removing the aluminum parts and have a metal fabricator replicate it in steel. All they have to do is bend it on a break and mig weld the seam at the bottom. Then you could reassemble it with the rack mount parts. The other thing you could look into is if you could use wood instead. Not sure if it would work as I have taken mine apart yet.
Mostly the larger (stationary) table saws will allow it. Yes, you could do a job like this with a couple of passes and a crosscut sled / fence if you can use a dado stack. Dado stacks can be pricey though. Good ones are as much as $400.
Great aux. fence. Another good trade tip. Alot of people don't understand these tips are valuable and can save $ and time. Thanks
Nice job. I have a 7491 and came up with a more complex variation on this. I actually filled the extrusion cavity because clamps were causing deflection. I then added a top and back support. Now i can clamp or attach anything to it and still use the original fence surface.
excellent. I don't have your saw but I learned something. I never saw anyone clamp a guide on a saw like that to make a cut like that. That is such a good idea.
Having watched your unboxing of this saw I went and bought one myself. I have to say it is a thing of beauty! Thank you for the review. I’ll be making a work station for it soon as well as a cross cut sled. Next will be one of these fences as we can’t get dado stacks in the uk apparently so rebates are tricky unless I use my router. Great work Eric. Thank you.
Good choice! Also, check out the stabilizer bar (the smaller bar) on the other side of the fence. It flips around and provides stability for wider rips. I almost missed this bit in the user manual. It will come in handy for sheet goods and cutting thin strips.
@@EricSorensenCanada I was trying to work out why that moved! 😂
I deliberated over this saw, I was used to a 10inch blade but I liked the features. I so far haven't missed having a bigger blade.
Thank you, @Eric Sorensen. I recently bought the Skilsaw 8 1/4" wormdrive saw with the same type of rack and pinion gearing for the fence (a feature that attracted me to the saw in the first place, plus, of course, the worm drive.). I have a very similar fence and was a bit frustrated when I realized that I could not clamp an auxiliary fence to it because of the flip-around it has on the backside of the fence for holding sheet stock. Thank you for the great idea/design! You have solved my dilemma. That was worth the like AND the subscribe. Well Done!!
Same here ! I have the skilsaw and have been brainstorming how to add a fence. Thanks Eric for solving this problem!
My pleasure! Cheers🙂
Good idea. It reminds me that I need to make myself a taller fence for rebate joints and also to make a taller fence for my bandsaw. I noticed that you aren’t using a zero clearance insert on your table saw. I try to use one as much as possible because I believe that it helps with dust control as well controlling small pieces so that they don’t drop into the blade.
Ah yes, I may have to break down and make a zero clearance for this saw, however, the dust collection will be useless if I do.
I'm really all about better dust collection these days. It's a trade off - I know.
Enjoyed the video, I bought myself the same saw mostly for the fence. It already boxes above its weight. I think I'll give the extension a go. Cheers 👍
Thanks for the inspiration and sharing your process. I have a similar need for a different brand saw.
WOW, you may have just solved something for me. As you look at the Dewalt, I've placed a Router insert to the left of it, planning on using the Dewalt Fence for the fence of the router plate. Your idea will be awesome for doing that, but I need to figure out how allow an opening for the router bit, and install a dust collector hose to it. Thanks for the insight.
I made a long fence with an infeed surface that slides over the whole fence assembly. Works well as it's primarily putting pressure at the supported ends of the rotating fence piece. I also made another wide U-Shaped aux. fence as I have a router table extension to the right of the blade on my 40" x 40" home-made table saw table and I use the saw's fence for supporting that with clamps at the back. No problem with 3/4 plywood and plenty of gusseting
I like the jointer! I use my table saw, but when I have time, I'll make a stand for my planer and see how it works. 😉
Great idea!
Awesome 👌🆒️
Very nice build.
Great concept, Eric. I’m in the process of building your table saw cart (well, my version of it, anyway!) and was wondering how I was going to cut the rabbets for the drawers. Since this is a utilitarian piece of shop furniture, I don’t want to take the time to do hand tool joinery on these drawers. I built my fence 7 inches tall using 3/4” MDF with a paste wax surface to reduce friction, as I don’t have any sacrificial IKEA furniture lying around. It works great. Thanks again!
Nicely Done! Yes, MDF would have been my choice too, then I found this scrap laying around. Cheers 🙂
That's really clever! I've got a Metabo saw and the fence has two knobs on the other side, this should work great for that one as well.
Fantastic work, Eric! Nicely done! 😃
My table saw is a Stanley, but I didn't even assembled it yet, so I don't know how is the fence. 😬
I'm still waiting for some parts for my dust collection system, so I didn't bother... LOL
But this week I'm going to see about that and I'm going to make something like what you done! 😃
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great build. I need a taller one then i have. thanks for sharing.
What a great idea/design, well done! I noticed that clever little hand planer table setup also! Great idea, I need to do that! Thanks and cheers from MT
Nice work. Just wondering if you considered drilling a few holes on fence and attaching new fence with countersink bolts and knobs?
Thank you, wonderful and safe idea!
Thanks, that's a great solution!
Cual sierra me recomiendas amigo
Recomiendo este: th-cam.com/video/6Yg3zOa5gGQ/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done Eric! I take it that you can't use a dado blade on your saw. Hence the reason why you went that route. Anyway, great idea....... 👍👍😉😉
Thanks Steve! Most of the compact and job site saws won't accept a dado stack. Of course if I was able to use one, the whole operation could be done with just the cross-cut fence. But this set-up works great for me in my little shop. Cheers🙂
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks for the video. The reason you chose not to use the crosscut sled for rabbet joints is because it's faster your way and less cleanup of the little v grooves when using ATB saw blades? Trying to understand logic.
The crosscut sled will work great for narrow / frame parts. When maneuvering longer / wider boards, it is much easier to use the aux fence. More stability, more surface area to use as a guide.
I have the same saw. Have you, or would you show us what you do for the miter ?
What would you recommend for strengthening the main hollow aluminum fence beam (similar to stuffing the inside)? Or at least getting a dent out?
I haven't run into this issue yet. My aux fence is just snug enough to stay put, but won't dent the aluminium. I don't know if there is much you can do once you've dented it. If your saw is still under warranty, I would take is back and get a new one. Otherwise you can probably find an OEM fence on Amazon.
@@EricSorensenCanada Is it possible to exchange the aluminum main fence beam for a steel one? (assuming all of the dimensions were similar to the OEM aluminum fence...)
It would be pretty involved....You could try removing the aluminum parts and have a metal fabricator replicate it in steel. All they have to do is bend it on a break and mig weld the seam at the bottom. Then you could reassemble it with the rack mount parts. The other thing you could look into is if you could use wood instead. Not sure if it would work as I have taken mine apart yet.
@@EricSorensenCanada What about UHMW plastic, would that work as well as wood/aluminum?
It might work if you can get it thick enough to replace the fence. It would be a lot easier than fabricating steel.
Curious why you don't use a dado to cut your rabbet joints. Seems like less overall setup, but I could be wrong.
Most compact and job site table saws, including mine, do not accept a dado stack.
@@EricSorensenCanada Ah, that's the bit I was missing. Mine came with a dado, so I presumed all saws had that capability.
Mostly the larger (stationary) table saws will allow it. Yes, you could do a job like this with a couple of passes and a crosscut sled / fence if you can use a dado stack. Dado stacks can be pricey though. Good ones are as much as $400.
Nice.Glad you used Gorilla glue and not hair gel !😜
Secret: Gorilla glue (Type2) is just as good as the Titebond type 2. But you didn't hear it from me...😉