I love several details about this design. To begin with, the leds. Many creators try to control the leds individually, but you used leds with a bus. I thought they were only available in led strips. This solves many problems regarding electrical and control design.
👏👏👏Simply Amazing! Your meticulous approach is just awe inspiring. I've done some projects but def still learning. When I search to order the LED's themselves, the product page says "Please note P9823F is a new version, don't mix with P9823's purchased 2022 or earlier." Were the LED's you used here the newer P9823F's? And if not & you used the older ones, does anything change as far as the wiring using the newer LED's? Again thank you, much obliged & your work is beyond inspiring, an absolute masterclass!!!
Hi, thanks your comment 🙂 I tried my best with this project.😄 My PL9823s are produced in 2022. I suggest you solder 4 wires to one of your PL9823 and connect it to your controller. That's highly recommended regardless of the manufacturing date.
The SMD 0603 100nF capacitors have a voltage rating of 50VDC. For the level shifter I use a 100nF/50VDC multi layer ceramic capacitor with a spacing of 5mm.
Nicely done. Me thinks rather than a cube you can use only 4 led deep and make it wider instead and use graphic effects to give it more 3d appearance. Just too costly for a full cube.
This is a really great video thanks for posting. Out of curiosity what gauge size are you using to power each segment for the red, black and yellow wires (under the LED cube going to each segment) and what gauge wire are you using to come off the main power supply? Super appreciated thanks again!!!
The capacitor ensures a stable power supply for the controller inside the LED. But it should work without capacitors as most LED cubes don`t have them.
Would *Galvanized* steel wire (0.5mm diameter) be ok to use for the horizontal connections? Also is the "Silver plated copper wire" mentioned at 3:06 0.6mm & what was roughly the total amount needed? 👏🏼Thank you, Thank You! 🙏 much obliged to you!
Yes, galvanized steel would be ok but in general steel wire is difficult to solder. You definitely need solder flux suitable for electronics. Silver plated copper wire is much easier to solder. The disadvantage is copper is more soft. The vertical data lines are 0.6mm. The total length is roughly 1400mm.
Hello! I am trying to understand how the individual leds are controlled. Arent they all connected in series? How do you control individual leds to form complicated patterns? In my mind they could only light up one after the other?
Yes, the data pins of the LEDs are connected in series. Every LED forwards the data to the next LED. The internal data latch of the built in controller saves the data.
Glad I found u. So I been trying to ask around if anyone knows how to program that cube .. can u do it w esp32? I'm just starting to get into Arduino as there's no way to get this dam esp32 to work w out this rabbit hole. Great hobby and I love keds
Like in many of my other projects the LEDs are controlled with a ESP8266 board but a Esp32 is possible, too. I programmed the ESP8266 with the ESPixelStick Firmware.
A 16x16x16 cube is a real beast regarding the power consumption if the same type of LEDs are used. The total current is around 4096*0.06A=246A. Three 70A power supplies would not be enough.
@@Roby80-h1d I would seperate the LEDs in groups. Each group has its own fuse. For example if you have 32 groups: 246A/32=7.7A -> The fuses should be around 8-10A.
A clear/transparent LED is more focused and has a smaller viewing angle. A frosty/milky LED diffuses the light more evenly and mixes the colors better. That's why I used frosty LEDs.
This build video has Asian level of patience and majestic. My build video would have a lot of man handling and frustrated cussing. Maybe even a hammer. Instead of wires being gently set, you would see them fly into view as I tossed them into place. I wouldn’t make a cube I would make a rhombohedron. 🤦♂️
Checkout these points in the video: 0:39 Pitch of LEDs 0:47 length steel wire for DOUT->DIN 2:08 distance rows 4:30 thickness acrylic glass (base) 4:39 base parts 4:57 holes base plate 5:07 wire brackets 6:53 distance base to first row 10:06 sheet metal 10:36 spacer
Hi, you can download the sequence xsq file here: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ppxo3f1ihcnt2t1tcsziq/LED-Cube_8x8x8_v6.xsq?rlkey=h3xk31epke40tcksw5pe50rfx&dl=0 This file contains the animations and can be edited in xLights.
Being a newbie(so please correct me if I am wrong) from what Ive read, the capacitor here helps in case there is temporary voltage drop. @yotudero was kind enough to mention above "it should work without it". Please forgive my ignorance, but how much of a potential drawback is skipping using the capacitors? I ask as on one hand, thats a ton of soldering work that can be skipped. Alternatively however, would skipping the caps become too much an issue later? @yotudero - Your work is just.... Amazing! And we are all very obliged to you for not just sharing the end result but also allowing us to learn with such a detailed step by step video. 👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏
Hi yotudero, you are a phenomenon and you never cease to amaze us. Great job and thanks for sharing. When you can we need a lesson on how you create animations in xLights. Thanks in advance.
Hi, in my channel there are a videos for the xLights model and the animations. The ESPixelStick Controller Firmware 4.0 can be downloaded from GitHub. Check the links in the video descriptions.
@@abirislam1321 Once you have uploaded the ESPixelStick Firmware, you can only select some basic test functions from the web interface. You have to use xLights for the animations.
![Warhammer 40k: Space Marine 2 | เพื่อจักรพรรดิ ! [ตอนเดียวจบ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4M0ckYMA4-U/mqdefault.jpg)
I love several details about this design. To begin with, the leds. Many creators try to control the leds individually, but you used leds with a bus. I thought they were only available in led strips. This solves many problems regarding electrical and control design.
Extraordinary craftsmanship.
Generous and precise details revealed via superb film and edit.
An inspiration for all makers.
Thanks and Regards !
Thank you for your comment :) I learned a lot from other makers. With my videos I try to give something back.
That's very delicate work.
Thanks!
Just Wow 😍😍
Very Neat and clean Cube,
With this kind of skill and time required to build this cube, it certainly needs a premium price.
Thanks! I tried my best to make a clean LED Cube.
The paint job for the lines left me stunning bro. Fkn beautyyyyyyyy.Subbed!
Thank you!!! 😀
👏👏👏Simply Amazing! Your meticulous approach is just awe inspiring.
I've done some projects but def still learning. When I search to order the LED's themselves, the product page says "Please note P9823F is a new version, don't mix with P9823's purchased 2022 or earlier." Were the LED's you used here the newer P9823F's? And if not & you used the older ones, does anything change as far as the wiring using the newer LED's?
Again thank you, much obliged & your work is beyond inspiring, an absolute masterclass!!!
Hi, thanks your comment 🙂 I tried my best with this project.😄
My PL9823s are produced in 2022. I suggest you solder 4 wires to one of your PL9823 and connect it to your controller. That's highly recommended regardless of the manufacturing date.
Dayum.
You got skills.
Amazing
Thanks!
Very nice, many work
Thanks!
Hello, what voltage should the 100nF 0603 capacitors be taken?
the 74HCT125 level shifter capacitor can be used?
thankyou
The SMD 0603 100nF capacitors have a voltage rating of 50VDC. For the level shifter I use a 100nF/50VDC multi layer ceramic capacitor with a spacing of 5mm.
so elaborate 💙
Thank you 🙂
I only see this now, you work very meticulously. Very nice end product :) How long did it take you to finish it?
Thanks :) It took me a few weeks to finish it.
Nicely done. Me thinks rather than a cube you can use only 4 led deep and make it wider instead and use graphic effects to give it more 3d appearance.
Just too costly for a full cube.
Thank you! Good idea! Yes, for a nice 3D effect 4 LED deep should be enough. I think I saw a similar project some time ago.
This is a really great video thanks for posting. Out of curiosity what gauge size are you using to power each segment for the red, black and yellow wires (under the LED cube going to each segment) and what gauge wire are you using to come off the main power supply? Super appreciated thanks again!!!
Thanks! The red and black wires are 1.5mm²/AWG16. The yellow data wire is 0.14mm²/AWG26.
Coolly done. I will definitely recreate it.
I only have one question: what is the significance of the capacitors?
The capacitor ensures a stable power supply for the controller inside the LED. But it should work without capacitors as most LED cubes don`t have them.
Would *Galvanized* steel wire (0.5mm diameter) be ok to use for the horizontal connections?
Also is the "Silver plated copper wire" mentioned at 3:06 0.6mm & what was roughly the total amount needed?
👏🏼Thank you, Thank You! 🙏 much obliged to you!
Yes, galvanized steel would be ok but in general steel wire is difficult to solder. You definitely need solder flux suitable for electronics. Silver plated copper wire is much easier to solder. The disadvantage is copper is more soft. The vertical data lines are 0.6mm. The total length is roughly 1400mm.
@@yotudero Thank You 🙏🙏🙏
Hello! I am trying to understand how the individual leds are controlled. Arent they all connected in series? How do you control individual leds to form complicated patterns? In my mind they could only light up one after the other?
Yes, the data pins of the LEDs are connected in series. Every LED forwards the data to the next LED. The internal data latch of the built in controller saves the data.
Wow, amazing
Thanks 🙂
Very cool video! Do you know how much SRAM it takes to control 512 addressable LEDs? How much RAM did your controller use?
I am using a ESP8266 based controller (Wemos D1 Mini Pro) programmed with the ESPixelStick Firmware. 4MB of flash is required.
Glad I found u. So I been trying to ask around if anyone knows how to program that cube .. can u do it w esp32? I'm just starting to get into Arduino as there's no way to get this dam esp32 to work w out this rabbit hole. Great hobby and I love keds
Like in many of my other projects the LEDs are controlled with a ESP8266 board but a Esp32 is possible, too. I programmed the ESP8266 with the ESPixelStick Firmware.
How many ampers should fuses be put on?
would it be possible to put 3 x 70A power supplies to make a 16x16x16 cube?
thankyou
A 16x16x16 cube is a real beast regarding the power consumption if the same type of LEDs are used. The total current is around 4096*0.06A=246A. Three 70A power supplies would not be enough.
@@yotudero sorry I made a mistake in writing, they are 4 of 70A how do I calculate the fuses to protect the LEDs?
@@Roby80-h1d I would seperate the LEDs in groups. Each group has its own fuse. For example if you have 32 groups:
246A/32=7.7A -> The fuses should be around 8-10A.
Anyone know how diff the cube would look using "transparent" led's vs "foggy" led's?
(I believe @yotudero is using "foggy" or "frosted" ones here)
A clear/transparent LED is more focused and has a smaller viewing angle. A frosty/milky LED diffuses the light more evenly and mixes the colors better. That's why I used frosty LEDs.
@@yotudero🙏🫵 Thank you. Appreciate the explanation, that makes sense. And thank you for such a detailed video!
This build video has Asian level of patience and majestic. My build video would have a lot of man handling and frustrated cussing. Maybe even a hammer. Instead of wires being gently set, you would see them fly into view as I tossed them into place. I wouldn’t make a cube I would make a rhombohedron. 🤦♂️
You are right, this project requires a lot patience. A hammer would really not be the appropriate tool. 😄
Hi great video.. can you give a video of how you make the actual circuit board... also show us the sample of how you do the epixelstick progamming.
Hi! It is shown in his video:
th-cam.com/video/EJ0akHXphQc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks bro
Hi can i use LED cathodes on this?
@@mysecondchannel9481 Hi, you can only use LEDs which are compatible with the WS2811 data protocoll for example the P9823-F5.
Hi can i use d1 mini, instead of d1 mini pro?
is there instructions
I think my video shows all important steps. Besides the video there are no written instructions.
cool :)
🙂
would you mind releasing the blueprints/measurements how you created it?
Checkout these points in the video:
0:39 Pitch of LEDs
0:47 length steel wire for DOUT->DIN
2:08 distance rows
4:30 thickness acrylic glass (base)
4:39 base parts
4:57 holes base plate
5:07 wire brackets
6:53 distance base to first row
10:06 sheet metal
10:36 spacer
@@yotudero thank you! And truly amazing work
@@nacerpaul Thanks! 🙂
quick question, the LED’s you use are they two different types? or "PL9823/WS2812" is the type of one LED’s?
@@nacerpaul I use PL9823-F5 LEDs. They have the same data protocol as the WS2812.
Hi, how can i change to other animations? And where can i find them?
Hi, you can download the sequence xsq file here:
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ppxo3f1ihcnt2t1tcsziq/LED-Cube_8x8x8_v6.xsq?rlkey=h3xk31epke40tcksw5pe50rfx&dl=0
This file contains the animations and can be edited in xLights.
Im not that much into electronics, are the capacitors necessary?
It should work without the capacitors.
@@yotudero thank you! also do you have a measurement about how much space there is between each LED on your shaper?
@@xkxine The distance between each LED is 30mm.
Being a newbie(so please correct me if I am wrong) from what Ive read, the capacitor here helps in case there is temporary voltage drop. @yotudero was kind enough to mention above "it should work without it".
Please forgive my ignorance, but how much of a potential drawback is skipping using the capacitors? I ask as on one hand, thats a ton of soldering work that can be skipped. Alternatively however, would skipping the caps become too much an issue later?
@yotudero - Your work is just.... Amazing! And we are all very obliged to you for not just sharing the end result but also allowing us to learn with such a detailed step by step video. 👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏
Are the Fuses important?
The fuses are needed in case of a short circuit. The power supply is really powerful. I want to be on the save side and use fuses in my projects.
@@yotudero ok thanks.
I need to do the same thing for a school Project and i hope it will be also so good like yours
@@vincentblank1584 That's a nice school project. You can make a video once you finished it 😄
Can I use an esp8266 circuit?
Yes, you can. I am using a ESP8266 based controller (Wemos D1 Mini Pro).
Do you sell these fully build?
No, it takes way too much time building these cubes. 😅
@@yotudero okay thanks for the reply!
Hi yotudero, you are a phenomenon and you never cease to amaze us.
Great job and thanks for sharing.
When you can we need a lesson on how you create animations in xLights.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks 🙂 I haven't forgotten it. I just want to do some other projects in between. 😄
I uploaded a video about creating animations a few days ago. Check the link in the description.
How can I buy?
You can buy the PL9823-F5 LEDs on Aliexpress.
Anodo común o catodo común
The PL9823-F5 LEDs don't have a common anode or cathode. They are all connected in parallel.
Hello brother i am kind of new. I wanted to make the same thing but i don't have that code can you give me that code
Hi, in my channel there are a videos for the xLights model and the animations. The ESPixelStick Controller Firmware 4.0 can be downloaded from GitHub. Check the links in the video descriptions.
one more thing i want to clear if i uploaded that ESPixel stick controller 4.0 the cube should be work perfectly right?
@@yotudero
also what kind of led are you using?
@@abirislam1321 Once you have uploaded the ESPixelStick Firmware, you can only select some basic test functions from the web interface. You have to use xLights for the animations.
@@abirislam1321 I used PL9823 LEDs (5mm diameter) for my LED cube.
Please brother i really wanted to make one