Hallelujah- I was really struggling with the play on my latest bike purchase and couldn't work out why I had so much play and simply could not remove it. Your advice about adding a spacer to the top cap was the key to sorting out a major headache for me. Thank you.
Thank you so much! I just added another style stern and had that slack. You really helped me understand the proper reassemble technique. You could almost do it in the dark 👍
thanks for this video. my problem was the bit at the end . not enough space and bottoming out. saved me hours of stripping it and wondering what was going wrong. life saver.
thanks. how about the sensitivity of the steering wheel. is there a way to make less sensitive to turn? (to avoid the handlebar easy movement when lifting the bike). thanks
Thanks. I just changed my stem and notice play motion on my headset. I thought it wasn’t tighten enough. Took it apart, reassembled and still has play in the head tube. I know what the problem is now.
My issue is different. The stem is tight and snug however when I turn it feels as though my steering slightly locks in the Center position but works freely once beyond that position. Any insight?
Sounds like a certain number of bearings have flat spots, assuming there's no foreign bodies /obstructions anywhere. Cables may be placed wrong or two short and are pulling on the stem/bars.
I'm having a lot of trouble with my new headset. No matter how much tension I add to my top cap, I can't get rid of the wiggle. I'm using a stem extender and to make things worse, I was getting issues with my handlebar coming loose. I had to put a lot of tension in my extender bolts to keep it from slipping. When I went to loosen it up to tighten my top cap, and then retightened the stem extender's bolt, I stripped it. How do you know when to stop? It was either too loose to keep the handlebar from slipping, or I would go too tight and strip one of the bolts. Now they're both gone. Is it normal that I had to add so much tension? Like long lever Allen key tension?
@@willhutch3338 turns out that I had mixed and matched parts from two different headsets because I thought the base cone/cap piece want meeting. I also noticed that my spacers were always loose enough to spin by hand. When I finally got the right pieces together, I found that as long as the spacers are firm enough to not spin freely by hand then the quill will stay firmly centred once you've tightened that top cap without over tightening any of the bolts. Hope that helps
HEY BRUTHA, I HAVE A BRAND NEW HILAND & UPGRADED IT A BIT MORE & FOR MY SIZE...I AM EXTREMELY GOOD WITH MY HANDS & IVE DONE EVERYTHING TO GET THIS RIGHT. ROUND 30 TIMES EASY IVE 6AKIN APART & TRIED BUT FAILED! CAN YA HELP ME OUT?? MANY THANNXX
this method does not work on my Giant TCR. after properly adjusting the stem cap. the stem bolts seem to tighten the fork, impeding proper movement, after using proper torque....
Light bulb moment highlighted by you. The spacer at the top is the trick ! Thank you.
Hallelujah- I was really struggling with the play on my latest bike purchase and couldn't work out why I had so much play and simply could not remove it. Your advice about adding a spacer to the top cap was the key to sorting out a major headache for me. Thank you.
Thank you so much! I just added another style stern and had that slack. You really helped me understand the proper reassemble technique.
You could almost do it in the dark 👍
Thank you so much, just fixed my "loose feeling" Marin Gesalt... such a simple fix after many failed attempt. THANKS !
I've just adjusted my headset ,and it worked! Thank you so much for the tips.
thanks for this video. my problem was the bit at the end . not enough space and bottoming out. saved me hours of stripping it and wondering what was going wrong. life saver.
Gotta watch till the end...
Thats the info I needed. Thanks for your time. I way overtorqued my rebuild.
Thanks!! I was afraid of something worst!!
Very useful and detailed. Thank you.
A mate said to back off the preload after tightening up the stem bolts. Is this something to avoid?
Great video especially the bit at the end, possibly where mine is going wrong. How much overlap do you need at the top?
Many thanks, saved my day as I was doing it wrong...
thanks. how about the sensitivity of the steering wheel. is there a way to make less sensitive to turn? (to avoid the handlebar easy movement when lifting the bike). thanks
Thanks. I just changed my stem and notice play motion on my headset. I thought it wasn’t tighten enough. Took it apart, reassembled and still has play in the head tube. I know what the problem is now.
Spot on!
My issue is different. The stem is tight and snug however when I turn it feels as though my steering slightly locks in the Center position but works freely once beyond that position. Any insight?
Probably somthing to due with your bearings?
Bearings for sure
Sounds like a certain number of bearings have flat spots, assuming there's no foreign bodies /obstructions anywhere. Cables may be placed wrong or two short and are pulling on the stem/bars.
You need to replace your bearings
Good informative video.
Excellent!
Came for the headset tips. Stayed for the haircut.
GREETINGS from India.
I'm having a lot of trouble with my new headset.
No matter how much tension I add to my top cap, I can't get rid of the wiggle.
I'm using a stem extender and to make things worse, I was getting issues with my handlebar coming loose. I had to put a lot of tension in my extender bolts to keep it from slipping.
When I went to loosen it up to tighten my top cap, and then retightened the stem extender's bolt, I stripped it. How do you know when to stop? It was either too loose to keep the handlebar from slipping, or I would go too tight and strip one of the bolts. Now they're both gone. Is it normal that I had to add so much tension? Like long lever Allen key tension?
I had the same thing happened to me how did you fix it
@@willhutch3338 turns out that I had mixed and matched parts from two different headsets because I thought the base cone/cap piece want meeting. I also noticed that my spacers were always loose enough to spin by hand. When I finally got the right pieces together, I found that as long as the spacers are firm enough to not spin freely by hand then the quill will stay firmly centred once you've tightened that top cap without over tightening any of the bolts. Hope that helps
@@myscreen2urs thanks man i was just goin to get a new bike but I just bought this one
my top cap bolt just spins left or right and there's play smh bolt wont come out
Cheers easy peasey
HEY BRUTHA, I HAVE A BRAND NEW HILAND & UPGRADED IT A BIT MORE & FOR MY SIZE...I AM EXTREMELY GOOD WITH MY HANDS & IVE DONE EVERYTHING TO GET THIS RIGHT. ROUND 30 TIMES EASY IVE 6AKIN APART & TRIED BUT FAILED! CAN YA HELP ME OUT?? MANY THANNXX
this method does not work on my Giant TCR. after properly adjusting the stem cap. the stem bolts seem to tighten the fork, impeding proper movement, after using proper torque....
PLEASE HELP, MINE MAKES A LOUD KNOCKING SOUND WHEN I CLIMB A HIGH SURFACE
A right handed front brake?
Thanku!!!
when it is already tight from the headset..but you still feel there is still a little bit of loose area when your road is bumpy.. is that normal?
Here also. I further tightened the preload which helped but I fear it is too tight.
what will happen if the star nut snaps and you will stuck like a duck. Everyone's video is refer to tight up the star nut somehow
Bicycles are really fascinating. Now I know why my forks still rock. It’s because the end of the forks are flush to my stem.
Bloke what tools u have bucko
What if over tight it
i think the stuff inside will break overtime, im scared if i overtightend mine aswell
Bearings will get damaged most likely.
I didn't owen Wilson rides bikes
Do you realize how ridiculous it was to have the camera zoomed out so far? Why show us so much of your back wall?
i thought it was a gaming headset tutorial bro