Nice work! I went with tiller steering on mine for the same reason. I didnt want a system that i couldnt control while standing. I am actually looking at adding a on/off switch to the end so i can at least start and stop the motor from the arm. Oh and i made a tiller rest that puts it right at my hand while standing so i dont have to reach down o grab it.
Thanks and nice ideas. I am going to attach a remote control speed controller (PWM) box at the handle for full trolling motor control while standing. I didn't want to add it to this basic design video but will post it in another when completed.
great idea i may use that when i get my pwm shouldnt be to hard to run the control knob up to the end and ise a quick connect at the back ( i like to keep my tiller removable
Good info! I'm finally looking into the tiller steering method for my kayak as I move my NK300 back to my Native slayer 13. I have not been happy with my original homemade hand steering and the foot pedal steering when using it on my ATAK 120. I just find that with a powerful motor like the NK300 (3hp) the steering cables become hard to move, even with pulleys. My preference for the actual tiller is a thin fiberglass rod with flex on the end. I could run them through eyelets and the flex should allow raising the motor. I'm not likely to stand while running - too old for that!!! I'm even considering trying an old broken tipped graphite fishing pole. I'm curious about your opinion since you are one of YT's top kayak innovators, IMO!
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks - longest driveway markers I found were 6' and I needed a little more. I just produced what looks like a perfect tiller handle using old graphite fishing rods with broken tips, epoxying together sections to make a lightweight, strong 7' tiller with a perfect handle. I screwed and epoxied a stainless eye into the end and used a 12" yakattack track screwed to the triangle offset to one side to attach to the motor. It is extremely smooth and easy to control in my garage. I will be testing with the NK300 on the water in a couple of days.
Hi sir, very neat video. Did you put online an other video regarding how to put a throttle with that tiller sterring set up ? I will be pleased by that. Keep the good work.
Are those stainless steel parts? I would need to find all SS as I fish a lot salt water. good idea and construction. Should explain how to keep the handle from dropping over board making it a pain to retrieve. A short bungee or 550 cord near handle tie to kayak would work.
Thanks. I used aluminum parts but I'm sure you could find SS parts. Yes, a tether is a good idea but this video was just about the tiller steering design.
Your mods are ALWAYS AWESOME!! Thank you so very much for your unique ideas!
Thank you Ronald!
Nice work!
I went with tiller steering on mine for the same reason. I didnt want a system that i couldnt control while standing.
I am actually looking at adding a on/off switch to the end so i can at least start and stop the motor from the arm.
Oh and i made a tiller rest that puts it right at my hand while standing so i dont have to reach down o grab it.
Thanks and nice ideas. I am going to attach a remote control speed controller (PWM) box at the handle for full trolling motor control while standing. I didn't want to add it to this basic design video but will post it in another when completed.
great idea i may use that when i get my pwm shouldnt be to hard to run the control knob up to the end and ise a quick connect at the back ( i like to keep my tiller removable
Good info! I'm finally looking into the tiller steering method for my kayak as I move my NK300 back to my Native slayer 13. I have not been happy with my original homemade hand steering and the foot pedal steering when using it on my ATAK 120. I just find that with a powerful motor like the NK300 (3hp) the steering cables become hard to move, even with pulleys. My preference for the actual tiller is a thin fiberglass rod with flex on the end. I could run them through eyelets and the flex should allow raising the motor. I'm not likely to stand while running - too old for that!!! I'm even considering trying an old broken tipped graphite fishing pole. I'm curious about your opinion since you are one of YT's top kayak innovators, IMO!
Thanks Michael. You could try driveway markers. I used one for an outboard extension. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/MmliRN_Th9Y/w-d-xo.html
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks - longest driveway markers I found were 6' and I needed a little more. I just produced what looks like a perfect tiller handle using old graphite fishing rods with broken tips, epoxying together sections to make a lightweight, strong 7' tiller with a perfect handle. I screwed and epoxied a stainless eye into the end and used a 12" yakattack track screwed to the triangle offset to one side to attach to the motor. It is extremely smooth and easy to control in my garage. I will be testing with the NK300 on the water in a couple of days.
@@michaell1665 Nice work!
Thank you so much!!!! Soooo helpful!!!!!
Thanks again!
Hi sir, very neat video. Did you put online an other video regarding how to put a throttle with that tiller sterring set up ? I will be pleased by that. Keep the good work.
Thanks. No, I have not used a throttle tiller but I know others have done it. You might find it on YT.
Really nice thank you for your video
You are welcome Luis.
Are those stainless steel parts? I would need to find all SS as I fish a lot salt water. good idea and construction. Should explain how to keep the handle from dropping over board making it a pain to retrieve. A short bungee or 550 cord near handle tie to kayak would work.
Thanks. I used aluminum parts but I'm sure you could find SS parts. Yes, a tether is a good idea but this video was just about the tiller steering design.
Would be great if you could link where you got the parts =)
I got my parts from Amazon and Home Depot. I listed the parts so people could google them and find the best deal for them.
What battery do you use for your kayak trolling motor?
I go big and use a 100 AH battery.