Outstanding idea. I definitely want to try this. Your handles are nothing short of beautiful. Excellent work. I would definitely be interested in more video content. Thank you.
I've been toying with trying this and it was nice to see someone else had done it and it truly works beautifully. You don't do any final sanding or polishing after the second coat at all?
I enjoyed the video, would like to see how you fashion the spines on your knives, they are super cool. Maybe you could talk about making the motorized turning device on the far left? Almost looks like a lathe arrangement where the long bar connects to the motor. Wondering if a couple of your scales are also made from epoxy resin? Does your sanding stop at 80 so as to make the handles more porous? I guess I am looking for more videos, right?
The turning device is a pac bay rod wrapper/dryer for building fishing rods. It has an upgraded Alps chuck, but I tell most of the guys just to buy a rod dryer and roller stand, works the same for about 1/4 the price. The rod that I attach the knives to is the butt of of a surf rod. 80 grit does let the epoxy bond better to the wood or hybrid scales. We also make the resin scales but its a different resin, the resin for the scales is a table top epoxy and has a hardness of around 80 when fully cured. The pro kote has a hardness of around 50 so it remains flexable when fully cured. I will try to get everything together to do a video covering all of it.
I haven't made a video on the scales yet. I cut the wood down to size and stabilize it, then my wife does the epoxy resin. I will try and do a video on the process in the future.
You can use other epoxy, The reason I use the rod epoxy it has a lower hardness and stays flexable. if you drop a knife with the rod epoxy, most times it won't spider crack, some of the other epoxies that have a higher hardness will crack from a drop.
I haven't had any issues with the prokote UV resistant yet I've been using it for 5 years. Before pro kote I was using Flexcoat. Eventually I will run into it with the flexcoat knives. I've run into it on fishing rods with flexcoat 10 or 15 years old. But my knives come with a life time warranty and I tell everybody, any issues, send them back and I'll fix it for them. I just rehandled one that was 7 years old no yellowing yet, it had a cracked handle.
@@okiehenry you ever done a CA (superglue) finish? Im kinda tired of doing that way bc when you sand it off the spine and forward, it leaves uncovered wood im lookin to find a way to let the damascus or sanmai show in the full tang but still cover the handle material. Maybe ill try taping off again and use the stuff youre using. I need somethin tough. I used the 650 toughened by g-flex before but its hard to get shiny.
@@jacksin3323 Never tried the CA finish, and never used G-flex. I been building fishing rods since 05, so when I started building knives I used rod dancer reel seat epoxy to glue scales on, and was using the epoxy based automotive clear coat for finish.
First time I've seen it done this way. Definitely quicker but having the epoxy on the spine and the blade of the knife it just looks sloppy. Definitely wouldn't purchase one if I saw it in a show for those reasons.
You are the only one I have seen do this - and your handles are outstanding, over the top beautiful ! ! ! Thank you for showing us how to do this.
From one Okie to another……..Bravo
Your rotating jig is genious
Outstanding idea. I definitely want to try this. Your handles are nothing short of beautiful. Excellent work. I would definitely be interested in more video content. Thank you.
Those knives looking awesome!
Thank You
I've been toying with trying this and it was nice to see someone else had done it and it truly works beautifully. You don't do any final sanding or polishing after the second coat at all?
Not after the final coat.
I need help finding the Prokote, I've got some Ironwood handles I'd like to try this on. Thanks, Doug
mudhole.com/products/prokote-high-build-rod-building-thread-finish
Handles look nice but having epoxy on the on the spine of the handle and would bug the hell out of me
I enjoyed the video, would like to see how you fashion the spines on your knives, they are super cool. Maybe you could talk about making the motorized turning device on the far left? Almost looks like a lathe arrangement where the long bar connects to the motor. Wondering if a couple of your scales are also made from epoxy resin? Does your sanding stop at 80 so as to make the handles more porous? I guess I am looking for more videos, right?
The turning device is a pac bay rod wrapper/dryer for building fishing rods. It has an upgraded Alps chuck, but I tell most of the guys just to buy a rod dryer and roller stand, works the same for about 1/4 the price. The rod that I attach the knives to is the butt of of a surf rod. 80 grit does let the epoxy bond better to the wood or hybrid scales. We also make the resin scales but its a different resin, the resin for the scales is a table top epoxy and has a hardness of around 80 when fully cured. The pro kote has a hardness of around 50 so it remains flexable when fully cured. I will try to get everything together to do a video covering all of it.
looks very nice
Have you done a video on how you make the scales? Couldn't find one. They're quite attractive.
Nice work. 👍🍻
I haven't made a video on the scales yet. I cut the wood down to size and stabilize it, then my wife does the epoxy resin. I will try and do a video on the process in the future.
@@okiehenry Thank you ! Looking forward to it.
Can you use any 1:1 epoxy for this or does it have to be rod coat?
You can use other epoxy, The reason I use the rod epoxy it has a lower hardness and stays flexable. if you drop a knife with the rod epoxy, most times it won't spider crack, some of the other epoxies that have a higher hardness will crack from a drop.
You ever have any issues with the epoxy yellowing or getting worn to a matte finish? Ive had issues with it and i now CA and polish all my handles.
I haven't had any issues with the prokote UV resistant yet I've been using it for 5 years. Before pro kote I was using Flexcoat. Eventually I will run into it with the flexcoat knives. I've run into it on fishing rods with flexcoat 10 or 15 years old. But my knives come with a life time warranty and I tell everybody, any issues, send them back and I'll fix it for them. I just rehandled one that was 7 years old no yellowing yet, it had a cracked handle.
@@okiehenry you ever done a CA (superglue) finish? Im kinda tired of doing that way bc when you sand it off the spine and forward, it leaves uncovered wood im lookin to find a way to let the damascus or sanmai show in the full tang but still cover the handle material.
Maybe ill try taping off again and use the stuff youre using. I need somethin tough. I used the 650 toughened by g-flex before but its hard to get shiny.
@@jacksin3323 Never tried the CA finish, and never used G-flex. I been building fishing rods since 05, so when I started building knives I used rod dancer reel seat epoxy to glue scales on, and was using the epoxy based automotive clear coat for finish.
If you use a heat gun to pass over the bubbles before it hardens they will come out
yes they will
any recommendations on how to coat throwing axe handles that take a lot of abuse?
My first thought, if it is a wedged handle, is rig up the turner with a wedge on the end. tap the handle on the wedge and coat the handle.
How long between coats?
Usually 4 to 8 hours depending on tempature and humidity. I keep a check on my left over epoxy as soon as it's tack free I apply the second coat
First time I've seen it done this way. Definitely quicker but having the epoxy on the spine and the blade of the knife it just looks sloppy. Definitely wouldn't purchase one if I saw it in a show for those reasons.