Love your videos. So much information and very helpful. Your creativeness is a joy to watch. You've inspired me to get back into woodworking again after almost 15 years of not woodworking. Thank you.
I used rubio monocoat once on a job to stain some beams we made to hang up on the ceiling. It was specified by the decorators. I was really skeptical, thinking it's some kind of new snake oil. But, to my surprise, that stuff is a pleasure to work with. Sanding is important, but it's important on any stained finish if you want to avoid pigtails. It lays on really evenly, it's really hard to screw up that rubio finish. I've only used the 2 component monocoat, and I don't think I'd use another product on something that I really need to turn out well. Once cured, it does leave a very hard finish and it is super easy to repair compared to any other product I've ever used. The repair blends in seamlessly without much effort or care about doing it just right. The cost is deceptive, because a little of this stuff goes a really long way. It seems to stretch on more than you expect. I think it's worth every penny when you consider the time savings of the one step process and the almost fool proof results.
We use a lot of Rubio; current project is more than £20,000 of European oak. It’s all being treated with Rubio smoked oak as that’s the Arts and Crafts finish we are looking for. I don’t disagree with anything in the video but would add a few things - the accelerator. For us, more of a pain than anything. Partly because the largest can, which we buy, has just another can of accelerator attached and it opens like the main can. We’ve never been able to get to use all the accelerator before the fill fitting lid means the stuff has cured. If we don’t use the accelerator, it is dry enough for most handling within a coupe of hours - although full cure takes about a week - if we sand, it’s 180 grit; but we use it mostly on timber we have planed; that eliminates any sander marks. - we clean with white spirit - no better or worse than acetone in our experience. - apply with a gentle scoured pad - white floor pads are great - allow to sink in only for a few minutes and then buff with a Terry cloth to remove any excesses. If you allow the finish to dry and see marks where too much has applied, you just go back to sanding - a tin is very expensive - but a little goes a long way. To be cost-effective, you need to really be stingy on the pad and only recharge when absolutely necessary. A little waste is a lot expensive. We’ve done at least a mile of coving, skirting and picture rail. A lot of the skirting is 210mm high and has been made with (good quality) veneered MDF topped with solid oak edging. Very happy with results. We’ve also made oak doors and the results are no difference. Wear resilience? I can’t speak of more than a years domestic use, but no issues. Where we had to go to a chip, the repair is simplicity; sand and reapply in the normal way. I guess that we will still use Osmo for worktops as that’s a proven product for us but with “sample bottles” costing £10 (?), you can get a different tinted Rubio even for small projects
Good morning watched any number of videos on this product just because I'm brand new to it and I'm about to do a 28 x 72" cheery table with legs and all the things that you show in your video. After this point I've only seen it applied to a nice flat surface, which sold me on the product, but not on the application. I appreciate seeing you working with legs and joints and glue and all that kind of things are getting your way when you're finishing wood. Thank you for the video. It was very very informative. Mark
Thank you for this! I’ve seen several vids prior and every single one ❤as doing a large flat table top and showing how easy it is. I was like there are a billion other aspects of woodworking and finish other than a big flat slab of wood. I felt like it was some sort of smoke and mirror act
I've found using Pre-color & 2C before assembly to be much easier than when the piece is fully assembled; eliminates the issue of lapping onto adjacent pieces.
I ran into the same issues with the precolor. Not going to ever use again but the monocoat is my go to. this was the best video I have found on potential issues. Great job!!
I've used Rubio on several client projects and found that there is a little bit of a learning curve but it is a simple finish to use. A few things I've learned along the way, as well as from a Rubio rep I talked to at a trade show this past fall: - Don't use mineral spirits to clean dust. I haven't heard about acetone being an alternative. Their raw wood cleaner is pricey but I figure it's made by them to go with their product, so may be worth the 'investment' on a quality finish. And the big can has gone a long way so far. - A little bit does go a long way. The more you put on to begin with, the more you have to wipe/scrub off with the professional towels. - The rep said sanding up to 150 is preferred, not anything higher than that. You don't want to close the pores with a higher paper; that doesn't let the oil penetrate as much. As to the pre-color issues: apply that to individual pieces before assembly? That way there's no chance of touching other pieces. Finally, red oak isn't looked as a 'preferred' hardwood for furniture. However, I've used it several times when a dark finish is needed and walnut is 3x the amount. Rubio's Chocolate does a great job on red oak and I just used their Intense Black pre-color under Charcoal for a solid black piece. The pre-color is like India ink and a solid black.
@mgn151 Thanks for sharing your experiences. One thing I've seen mentioned in regard to red oak is to use the mint white (I believe that's what it's called) Precolor Easy prior to whichever Oil Plus 2C finish your using. The slight green color neutralizes the pink color typically found in red oak. I haven't tried it yet, personally. The only red oak that I've used thus far has been on the picture frame that I showed in this video, and of course I used black Precolor, and Slate Gray on top. (Awsome combination, by the way.) I am going to run some tests using RMC on pieces that are sanded to a higher grit as well, just to see what happens. I think asking people to only sand to 150 on furniture is kind of crazy, but then RMC was originally designed for floors, not furniture, and for floors it seems that 150 would be just fine. What I am really curious about though is to see how it reacts to hand-planed surfaces. The natural finish that a hand plane delivers, compared to sanding, is absolutely night and day with a lot of species. And since a plane iron slices the fibers clean, instead of mauling them like a sander would, I would have to think it would turn out pretty nice.
Great video. So many TH-camrs, at least for the subjects that I'm interested in, are Canadian. Because I'm Canadian, when I'm not sure it's fun to listen for the specific wording or accent that give it away. In this case it was "quite THE challenge" at 2:17. 😀
Absolutely love rubio since I tried it last year. I've never tried the pre-color applications but then again, I don't have any PROFESSIONAL white rags either. Maybe that's what's been holding me back.... Great video, Jodee. Keep doing what you do!
I’m planning to build my very first furniture piece (a small table and piano bench) for a friend and am planning to use Rubio Monocoat to finish it, so this video’s timed perfectly. I built a mock up out of 2-by material already to practice some new things (dowel joinery, drawing and cutting curves, and cutting tapers). One thing I learned is I need to build a tapering jig, so in the next week or two I’ll be building the one you showed in a recent video here. All that to say, I find a lot of value in your videos, so thanks for putting them out. Keep up the good work.
I always love your videos - super informative, efficient, and clear. I’ve tried Rubio, absolutely loved the smell, but found the mixing process finicky and didn’t find the finish stretched as far as some people claim (mainly because of all the ins and outs of legs & aprons, as you mention). I even tried using a cheaper finish (tung oil) on the table structure to save Rubio for the top. But then I tried Odie’s Oil, and so far love it: it’s a bit cheaper, has only one component, and seems to stretch really far. And it smells almost as good as Rubio. (Have also tried Osmo but that stuff smells like gasoline.) Thanks for all your content!
I literally just applied Rubio 10 minutes ago on a side by side comparison sample with GF Arm R Seal. Its for a live edge pine table I'm doing. Never used either so wish me luck! Great video by the way. Love your content.
Thank you for posting the tips and thing you do. I used some of your tricks to make a bunch of dado's and it worked out perfectly...with no measuring needed!
I used Rubio on a walnut drafting table I fished a couple of days ago and it turned out super. It is the easiest finish I ever used. It’s expensive but a bit goes a long way.
One thing you showed buy did not mention...it's a really good idea to wipe the spout very clean on the accelerant. If you don't and it cures thoroughly you will never get the lid off again. DAMHIKT I have used Rubio on several projects and am still in the steep part of the learning curve, but I like it. Very good video and excellent tips.
I started watching your vids for the sho Sugi bon and now your teaching me all kinds of finishing stuff. I really need to jump coasts and have coffee with you someday. Great instructional tutorial… again! PS - great flashlight! I have one too.
@731 Woodworks Thank you, friend. So I don't usually leave the links for the sander because it's a ETS EC 125/3 with 150 pads, and that's really hard to explain to folks 😂
Thanks for showing a stained piece of furniture! Every other video is an epoxy River table with pure 2c. Most furniture just isn’t that. New video on different staining techniques would be awesome
I need to stain a project for a client that matches your Slate Gray sample piece. Would you mind sharing what your blue tape says opposite the slate gray wording.? I can’t read it. Or if you don’t mind telling me how you achieved the color. Thanks-A-Bunch! Actually I figured it out with a lot of zooming and guessing. It looks like White Precolor! Which I will try. Thanks for this tip.
@Witt Works I haven't tried the maroon pad yet. I have seen some people use it with a second coat of Rubio or with the (I think) maintenance oil, and it's basically to add a bit more sheen. Something else to experiment with!
Thanks for the overview on the rubio stuff. I still prefer simple water based poly though. Cheaper, plenty of protection, easy to apply. Maybe I'll grab a small container of the rubio to try out...
I have not used Rubio yet but the info I have found says you can mix any of the available colours together. Maybe that negates the need for the pre-stain but might also make repairs in the future harder unless the recipe concocted has been recorded..
You know, I think heeding the advice of Stumpy Nubs about sanding might be good here: He advocates doing the very last sanding by hand, with the grain. For what you described (seeing the pigtail/swirls), having that as your rule, rather than "if I need to", that would solve it. And, yes, I don't follow that advice as much as I should, either!
I’ve also found that the pre colour/ages can be tricky to apply. I’ve found that I get better results when applying with a beige stubby as a pad by dipping it into the colour first. Hope that helps 👍
Great video! Question- how long do you wait between applying the finish and attaching the top to the piece? Do you wait till it’s dry to the touch or completely cured?
Rubio is my favorite. Easy to apply, easy to repair. The other great thing is that it does not have the lovely odor of our petroleum based stains. I recently switched to a water based stain for repairing furniture. This allows me to work in clients homes as needed without worrying about the wonderful chemical smells. It has become my go to when fixing the damage moving companies have left behind. It is incredibly easy to work with and I use my fingers to blend it as I go since it washes right off when I am finished. It dries very quickly and you can apply additional coats to achieve the desired color depth. May work well if you are doing additional projects and color schemes like this. Cheaper than the Rubio as well. The brand is SamaN. Yes, that is the correct spelling. You can find it on their website or go to Amazon.
@Fulla Blarney I have recently been experimenting with hide glue for that very reason. So far it seems like it doesn't make a difference, but I have some more tests to make. Thanks for mentioning!
from my small experience with rubio I would advise missing out on the pre colour after all there are numerous colours in the oil plus 2c range which can if needed be mixed together to get the desired effect. I have had no problem with the drying time particularly if compared to treatex or osmo. I am not clear why there is a problem sanding to finer grits and so far have thought that whilst very smooth it does look a little flat but do concede that your project has a great finish. Can it be that sanding to a finer finish takes away some of the lustre? This seems counter intuitive.
@Dave Fligg I think since Rubio was originally intended to be used on floors, it could be that they only originally tested it (and therefore guarantee that it will work) on lower grits. I might run some tests and see what happens when used on higher grits, say at least to 220. The way I understand it, it's supposed to make a molecular bond with the wood fibers, so in theory, course means a better bond. I think the flatness is just the sheen. It's great for those wanting to stray from the plastic-looking polys and what-not. There are ways that some folks have found to get a bit more sheen, but still not at all glossy.
@@InspireWoodcraft Thank you for that. I'm trying hard to like the product. As you say some of the poly products look milky. Great channel. keep up the good work.
What a great concept. Pay a fortune for a finish that highlights any “oh craps” that everyone always makes, and frustrates the heck out you. You made a beautiful piece. The Rubio , IMO, detracts from it. I’ll stick with my traditional finishes. I guess that’s why all cars aren’t white. Beautiful work, though!
You kept saying 180 grit in the video - but I think you meant 120 grit. Rubio recommends 120 grit and up to 150 grit if you raise the grain and sand back to 120 grit I love Rubio and one of the things I love the most is not sanding above 150
@Carl Brink Depends on which article you read. I've seen them say both, but with floors they always say 150 max. Then again, no one is looking at floors up close and personal like with a piece of furniture.
So, if I don't get the prep just right it will show swirl marks and lap marks. Then it will be dry and ready to go in a week, or 3 weeks without accelerator, for a price that is a multiple of other finishes, extra (I assume) for the accelerator. Why aren't I rushing out get some? It sounds more practical to me to just stick with what I've been doing.
@Andrew Bennett Yeah, different strokes for different folks, I suppose. I absolutely hate finishing and always manage to mess it up somehow. I don't have a place to store work that has drying finish on it, and I don't have the time to wait for it to dry in the shop. So for me it's worth the extra couple of bucks to not have any of the headaches, especially since a little goes quite a long way, so the cost ends up being about the same.
Hey Andrew. I'm no rubio expert. But, I have used it a couple of times. If you're using just the natural colorless ( no stain), swirl marks and laps won't be a problem at all. It leaves a beautiful hard finish. The key though is to buff it in with the white scuff pads. The stain is the issue. Stain will pretty much highlight any pigtails left, regardless of which stain you use, as the stain tends to accumulate in the deeper swirl marks. As always, sanding sucks but, it's the thing that seperates an awesome piece from an amateur piece. Surface prep is always key to a great final finish. I never really met anyone that loves sanding, but the payoff always shows up after the finish is applied.
Another question - I use the white scotch brite pads as well but notice that the grain in walnut and oak tends to catch little fibers as i'm going. Do you see this as well?
@Ben I don't notice it too much, but one of the other things I love about RMC is that when they do catch, they're easy to just pull off without ruing the finish.
Is there a particular reason you're using the ultra-soft pad for your sander on that flat surface? I would think you might want to stick with the hard or regular one so as not to introduce any undulations...
I’m don’t want to sound pretentious but in general fine furniture makers do not stain their work. Stain is a way to make sapwood look like more expensive species of hardwood. I can understand DIYers using it because they want a certain color but don’t want to spend lots of money on lumber. But this really isn’t what furniture makers do. It’s a cheap shortcut to avoid spending money. And for a DIYer that’s fine. But it’s not fine furniture. That being said, there is an argument for slightly white pigmented finishes like Rubio white hard wax oils because it doesn’t yellow like normal oils. So if you want that light white oak or ash aesthetic you don’t have a lot of options here. The only other thing is danish soap finishes with chalk mixed in but that’s a high maintenance low protection option for a niche audience. Or you could go water based poly but that will darken the wood though not yellow it. And it will make it look like it’s encased in plastic because it literally is encased in plastic. So if you want a raw oak appearance that’s a tough one. But in general you would pick the species of wood based on what color you want and then finish it with a clear finish like hard wax oil or wipe on varnish. And you get what you get. Basically you let the wood speak for itself. If you’re going to spend money on maple then let the maple be maple. Don’t try to make it look like walnut. If you want walnut buy walnut. Again DIYers who don’t care enough to spend money on quality furniture can do whatever they want. No judgement. Just explaining the perspective of “fine” furniture. Whatever that means. Obviously the average person does not care about any of this at all. And the average DIYer probably doesn’t either. Okay pinkies down and have a nice day everyone.
@B Glad Woodworkings I have not water popped yet (because I keep forgetting to) and have had no issues to date, except for one species. That would be alder, and the only issue that I had was when using Precolor Easy. It kind of makes sense because Precolor is water based, and water is what makes grain raise. The same is true even on something like a cutting board. If you don't water pop a cutting board and jump staight to mineral oil, all is well. That is until the first couple of times that you wash it and the oil wears down and the water takes over. Interestingly enough I had no issues with alder at all when only using Oil Plus 2C. I've used the precolor on oak and ash without water popping and without issue. The first thing I made with Oil Plus 2C is a dog bowl holder. No PreColor. No accelerator. No water popping. I did this six months ago now and while we do try to keep large water spills cleaned up, we definitely don't wipe up every drop that the dog drips on it. It is just as smooth and solid as the day we set it there. I only bring this up as an example of my own personal experience of wet use without water popping. Hope that helps!
@@InspireWoodcraft Terrific and detailed reply. I really appreciate you responding. I'll move forward without water popping (unless I think it's absolutely necessary) more confidently now.
It does soak into the surface. Not super deep but it is not a layer on top only finish like polyurethane, which is essentially a layer of plastic on top of the surface. I like your video otherwise. Cheers
@docdoc Hmm. Not really sure where you saw that. Random obit sanders can be used in any direction you want, and I always use sanding blocks with the grain unless it's for heavy material removal and with the intent of doing a final pass with the grain to get rid of scratch marks.
Great demo. I work at Rockler, and we just started selling the product. I will recommend this video to anyone who is asking questions about its use.
@Kenneth White Hey, now I have another place to get it locally (hopefully)! And thank you for sharing!
I'm glad to see you showing off the simple drawer glides. Makes great sense on a small drawer.
Love your videos. So much information and very helpful. Your creativeness is a joy to watch. You've inspired me to get back into woodworking again after almost 15 years of not woodworking. Thank you.
@Eric Hubbard Thank you so much for the kind words. And welcome back!
I used rubio monocoat once on a job to stain some beams we made to hang up on the ceiling. It was specified by the decorators. I was really skeptical, thinking it's some kind of new snake oil. But, to my surprise, that stuff is a pleasure to work with. Sanding is important, but it's important on any stained finish if you want to avoid pigtails. It lays on really evenly, it's really hard to screw up that rubio finish. I've only used the 2 component monocoat, and I don't think I'd use another product on something that I really need to turn out well. Once cured, it does leave a very hard finish and it is super easy to repair compared to any other product I've ever used. The repair blends in seamlessly without much effort or care about doing it just right. The cost is deceptive, because a little of this stuff goes a really long way. It seems to stretch on more than you expect. I think it's worth every penny when you consider the time savings of the one step process and the almost fool proof results.
@Marcel LeMay Well said and I completely agree. I'm glad you brought up sanding quality on every job too.
We use a lot of Rubio; current project is more than £20,000 of European oak. It’s all being treated with Rubio smoked oak as that’s the Arts and Crafts finish we are looking for. I don’t disagree with anything in the video but would add a few things
- the accelerator. For us, more of a pain than anything. Partly because the largest can, which we buy, has just another can of accelerator attached and it opens like the main can. We’ve never been able to get to use all the accelerator before the fill fitting lid means the stuff has cured. If we don’t use the accelerator, it is dry enough for most handling within a coupe of hours - although full cure takes about a week
- if we sand, it’s 180 grit; but we use it mostly on timber we have planed; that eliminates any sander marks.
- we clean with white spirit - no better or worse than acetone in our experience.
- apply with a gentle scoured pad - white floor pads are great
- allow to sink in only for a few minutes and then buff with a Terry cloth to remove any excesses. If you allow the finish to dry and see marks where too much has applied, you just go back to sanding
- a tin is very expensive - but a little goes a long way. To be cost-effective, you need to really be stingy on the pad and only recharge when absolutely necessary. A little waste is a lot expensive.
We’ve done at least a mile of coving, skirting and picture rail. A lot of the skirting is 210mm high and has been made with (good quality) veneered MDF topped with solid oak edging. Very happy with results.
We’ve also made oak doors and the results are no difference. Wear resilience? I can’t speak of more than a years domestic use, but no issues. Where we had to go to a chip, the repair is simplicity; sand and reapply in the normal way.
I guess that we will still use Osmo for worktops as that’s a proven product for us but with “sample bottles” costing £10 (?), you can get a different tinted Rubio even for small projects
Thanks for showing this. I never thought of using this on smaller pieces but maybe someday I now will try it.
Good morning watched any number of videos on this product just because I'm brand new to it and I'm about to do a 28 x 72" cheery table with legs and all the things that you show in your video. After this point I've only seen it applied to a nice flat surface, which sold me on the product, but not on the application. I appreciate seeing you working with legs and joints and glue and all that kind of things are getting your way when you're finishing wood. Thank you for the video. It was very very informative. Mark
When I see your channel pop up in my feed I know I'm about to see an excellent video. Your stuff is innovative and informative. Thank you sir!
Thank you for this! I’ve seen several vids prior and every single one ❤as doing a large flat table top and showing how easy it is. I was like there are a billion other aspects of woodworking and finish other than a big flat slab of wood. I felt like it was some sort of smoke and mirror act
I've found using Pre-color & 2C before assembly to be much easier than when the piece is fully assembled; eliminates the issue of lapping onto adjacent pieces.
I ran into the same issues with the precolor. Not going to ever use again but the monocoat is my go to. this was the best video I have found on potential issues. Great job!!
finally a video on applying rubio monocoat to something that's not just a flat piece of wood lol. thanks
Good video is probably the best Rubio Monocoat I've seen very detailed on what not to do and what to do when applying it.
I've used Rubio on several client projects and found that there is a little bit of a learning curve but it is a simple finish to use. A few things I've learned along the way, as well as from a Rubio rep I talked to at a trade show this past fall:
- Don't use mineral spirits to clean dust. I haven't heard about acetone being an alternative. Their raw wood cleaner is pricey but I figure it's made by them to go with their product, so may be worth the 'investment' on a quality finish. And the big can has gone a long way so far.
- A little bit does go a long way. The more you put on to begin with, the more you have to wipe/scrub off with the professional towels.
- The rep said sanding up to 150 is preferred, not anything higher than that. You don't want to close the pores with a higher paper; that doesn't let the oil penetrate as much.
As to the pre-color issues: apply that to individual pieces before assembly? That way there's no chance of touching other pieces.
Finally, red oak isn't looked as a 'preferred' hardwood for furniture. However, I've used it several times when a dark finish is needed and walnut is 3x the amount. Rubio's Chocolate does a great job on red oak and I just used their Intense Black pre-color under Charcoal for a solid black piece. The pre-color is like India ink and a solid black.
@mgn151 Thanks for sharing your experiences. One thing I've seen mentioned in regard to red oak is to use the mint white (I believe that's what it's called) Precolor Easy prior to whichever Oil Plus 2C finish your using. The slight green color neutralizes the pink color typically found in red oak. I haven't tried it yet, personally. The only red oak that I've used thus far has been on the picture frame that I showed in this video, and of course I used black Precolor, and Slate Gray on top. (Awsome combination, by the way.)
I am going to run some tests using RMC on pieces that are sanded to a higher grit as well, just to see what happens. I think asking people to only sand to 150 on furniture is kind of crazy, but then RMC was originally designed for floors, not furniture, and for floors it seems that 150 would be just fine.
What I am really curious about though is to see how it reacts to hand-planed surfaces. The natural finish that a hand plane delivers, compared to sanding, is absolutely night and day with a lot of species. And since a plane iron slices the fibers clean, instead of mauling them like a sander would, I would have to think it would turn out pretty nice.
Well done instructional work. So very thankful you freely share with the maker community.
Great video. So many TH-camrs, at least for the subjects that I'm interested in, are Canadian. Because I'm Canadian, when I'm not sure it's fun to listen for the specific wording or accent that give it away. In this case it was "quite THE challenge" at 2:17. 😀
Absolutely love rubio since I tried it last year. I've never tried the pre-color applications but then again, I don't have any PROFESSIONAL white rags either. Maybe that's what's been holding me back.... Great video, Jodee. Keep doing what you do!
I’m planning to build my very first furniture piece (a small table and piano bench) for a friend and am planning to use Rubio Monocoat to finish it, so this video’s timed perfectly. I built a mock up out of 2-by material already to practice some new things (dowel joinery, drawing and cutting curves, and cutting tapers). One thing I learned is I need to build a tapering jig, so in the next week or two I’ll be building the one you showed in a recent video here. All that to say, I find a lot of value in your videos, so thanks for putting them out. Keep up the good work.
@Clickster Thank you and good luck!
Thank you for sharing this excellent demonstration! Very clear and super useful.
I always love your videos - super informative, efficient, and clear. I’ve tried Rubio, absolutely loved the smell, but found the mixing process finicky and didn’t find the finish stretched as far as some people claim (mainly because of all the ins and outs of legs & aprons, as you mention). I even tried using a cheaper finish (tung oil) on the table structure to save Rubio for the top. But then I tried Odie’s Oil, and so far love it: it’s a bit cheaper, has only one component, and seems to stretch really far. And it smells almost as good as Rubio. (Have also tried Osmo but that stuff smells like gasoline.) Thanks for all your content!
This is great! I've been thinking of using rubio on my next project.
Thank you for this! I’ve been looking for information on using Rubio on regular furniture with nooks and crannies.
I literally just applied Rubio 10 minutes ago on a side by side comparison sample with GF Arm R Seal. Its for a live edge pine table I'm doing. Never used either so wish me luck! Great video by the way. Love your content.
@Chris Windberg Good luck!!
The 2 are literally incomparable in terms of protection. Unless your side by side is just for looks.
Great demonstration Jodie, thank you.
Thank you for posting the tips and thing you do. I used some of your tricks to make a bunch of dado's and it worked out perfectly...with no measuring needed!
Thanks. Great overview and great advice at the end, keep it simple. 😊
I used Rubio on a walnut drafting table I fished a couple of days ago and it turned out super. It is the easiest finish I ever used. It’s expensive but a bit goes a long way.
One thing you showed buy did not mention...it's a really good idea to wipe the spout very clean on the accelerant. If you don't and it cures thoroughly you will never get the lid off again. DAMHIKT I have used Rubio on several projects and am still in the steep part of the learning curve, but I like it. Very good video and excellent tips.
I started watching your vids for the sho Sugi bon and now your teaching me all kinds of finishing stuff. I really need to jump coasts and have coffee with you someday. Great instructional tutorial… again!
PS - great flashlight! I have one too.
@Michael Albany The fact that you've stuck around all this time and kept watching is amazing. Thank you, sir. That cup of coffee is on me!
Amazing, dude. Really beautiful work! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome information, thanks for sharing! What Festool sander are you using? Got an affiliate link to it?
@731 Woodworks Thank you, friend. So I don't usually leave the links for the sander because it's a ETS EC 125/3 with 150 pads, and that's really hard to explain to folks 😂
Thanks for showing a stained piece of furniture! Every other video is an epoxy River table with pure 2c. Most furniture just isn’t that. New video on different staining techniques would be awesome
I need to stain a project for a client that matches your Slate Gray sample piece. Would you mind sharing what your blue tape says opposite the slate gray wording.? I can’t read it. Or if you don’t mind telling me how you achieved the color. Thanks-A-Bunch! Actually I figured it out with a lot of zooming and guessing. It looks like White Precolor! Which I will try. Thanks for this tip.
Great video, thanks for the tips!
Thanks, I’ve been wondering how to use that stuff for awhile.
Thanks for the head’s up about Rubio’s. I doubt that I will use it as I tend to stay with a few finishes I am comfortable with, but thanks anyway!
This is excellent; thank you! I like the side table you are finishing: do you have plans to build that by any chance?
Very well explained. Thank you.
Really diggin these videos, thank you
As Always Great Information.... Thanks!!!
that white pad buffer tip is huge! going to try that! what are your thoughts on the maroon pad during the finishing process?
@Witt Works I haven't tried the maroon pad yet. I have seen some people use it with a second coat of Rubio or with the (I think) maintenance oil, and it's basically to add a bit more sheen. Something else to experiment with!
Thanks for the overview on the rubio stuff. I still prefer simple water based poly though. Cheaper, plenty of protection, easy to apply. Maybe I'll grab a small container of the rubio to try out...
I have not used Rubio yet but the info I have found says you can mix any of the available colours together. Maybe that negates the need for the pre-stain but might also make repairs in the future harder unless the recipe concocted has been recorded..
You know, I think heeding the advice of Stumpy Nubs about sanding might be good here: He advocates doing the very last sanding by hand, with the grain. For what you described (seeing the pigtail/swirls), having that as your rule, rather than "if I need to", that would solve it. And, yes, I don't follow that advice as much as I should, either!
I’ve also found that the pre colour/ages can be tricky to apply. I’ve found that I get better results when applying with a beige stubby as a pad by dipping it into the colour first. Hope that helps 👍
Good show man
Great video! Question- how long do you wait between applying the finish and attaching the top to the piece? Do you wait till it’s dry to the touch or completely cured?
Rubio is my favorite. Easy to apply, easy to repair. The other great thing is that it does not have the lovely odor of our petroleum based stains. I recently switched to a water based stain for repairing furniture. This allows me to work in clients homes as needed without worrying about the wonderful chemical smells. It has become my go to when fixing the damage moving companies have left behind. It is incredibly easy to work with and I use my fingers to blend it as I go since it washes right off when I am finished. It dries very quickly and you can apply additional coats to achieve the desired color depth. May work well if you are doing additional projects and color schemes like this. Cheaper than the Rubio as well.
The brand is SamaN. Yes, that is the correct spelling. You can find it on their website or go to Amazon.
Thanks for the info. One question: other than the pre-color, does it have water in the finish? Will it raise the grain?
I'd try using hide glue, which doesn't create problems with some/most finishes.
@Fulla Blarney I have recently been experimenting with hide glue for that very reason. So far it seems like it doesn't make a difference, but I have some more tests to make. Thanks for mentioning!
Is that a rubber pad you are using to protect the workbench?
Have you tried this product on Shou Sugi ban treated wood, and if so how did it turn out?
Is that buffing pad available on Amazon or elsewhere online?
from my small experience with rubio I would advise missing out on the pre colour after all there are numerous colours in the oil plus 2c range which can if needed be mixed together to get the desired effect. I have had no problem with the drying time particularly if compared to treatex or osmo.
I am not clear why there is a problem sanding to finer grits and so far have thought that whilst very smooth it does look a little flat but do concede that your project has a great finish. Can it be that sanding to a finer finish takes away some of the lustre? This seems counter intuitive.
@Dave Fligg I think since Rubio was originally intended to be used on floors, it could be that they only originally tested it (and therefore guarantee that it will work) on lower grits. I might run some tests and see what happens when used on higher grits, say at least to 220. The way I understand it, it's supposed to make a molecular bond with the wood fibers, so in theory, course means a better bond. I think the flatness is just the sheen. It's great for those wanting to stray from the plastic-looking polys and what-not. There are ways that some folks have found to get a bit more sheen, but still not at all glossy.
@@InspireWoodcraft Thank you for that. I'm trying hard to like the product. As you say some of the poly products look milky. Great channel. keep up the good work.
What a great concept. Pay a fortune for a finish that highlights any “oh craps” that everyone always makes, and frustrates the heck out you. You made a beautiful piece. The Rubio , IMO, detracts from it. I’ll stick with my traditional finishes. I guess that’s why all cars aren’t white. Beautiful work, though!
Nice olight
You kept saying 180 grit in the video - but I think you meant 120 grit.
Rubio recommends 120 grit and up to 150 grit if you raise the grain and sand back to 120 grit
I love Rubio and one of the things I love the most is not sanding above 150
@Carl Brink Depends on which article you read. I've seen them say both, but with floors they always say 150 max. Then again, no one is looking at floors up close and personal like with a piece of furniture.
Rubio is a great finish but it does need two coats for the best luster.
So, if I don't get the prep just right it will show swirl marks and lap marks. Then it will be dry and ready to go in a week, or 3 weeks without accelerator, for a price that is a multiple of other finishes, extra (I assume) for the accelerator. Why aren't I rushing out get some? It sounds more practical to me to just stick with what I've been doing.
@Andrew Bennett Yeah, different strokes for different folks, I suppose. I absolutely hate finishing and always manage to mess it up somehow. I don't have a place to store work that has drying finish on it, and I don't have the time to wait for it to dry in the shop. So for me it's worth the extra couple of bucks to not have any of the headaches, especially since a little goes quite a long way, so the cost ends up being about the same.
Hey Andrew. I'm no rubio expert. But, I have used it a couple of times. If you're using just the natural colorless ( no stain), swirl marks and laps won't be a problem at all. It leaves a beautiful hard finish. The key though is to buff it in with the white scuff pads. The stain is the issue. Stain will pretty much highlight any pigtails left, regardless of which stain you use, as the stain tends to accumulate in the deeper swirl marks. As always, sanding sucks but, it's the thing that seperates an awesome piece from an amateur piece. Surface prep is always key to a great final finish. I never really met anyone that loves sanding, but the payoff always shows up after the finish is applied.
Another question - I use the white scotch brite pads as well but notice that the grain in walnut and oak tends to catch little fibers as i'm going. Do you see this as well?
@Ben I don't notice it too much, but one of the other things I love about RMC is that when they do catch, they're easy to just pull off without ruing the finish.
it's oil based, but you don't need a ventiator when applying it?
What color was that grey in rubico?
Is there a particular reason you're using the ultra-soft pad for your sander on that flat surface? I would think you might want to stick with the hard or regular one so as not to introduce any undulations...
@Ben I chose to use the soft pad to slightly soften the edges, and also because the top has a slight cup to it.
Video couldn't come at a better time. I just sanded to 180, water popped, sanded again, and cleaned the dust with mineral spirits!
Good Luck! What color/species combo are you using?
haven’t tried this one yet. seems similar to odie’s oil.
I’m don’t want to sound pretentious but in general fine furniture makers do not stain their work. Stain is a way to make sapwood look like more expensive species of hardwood.
I can understand DIYers using it because they want a certain color but don’t want to spend lots of money on lumber. But this really isn’t what furniture makers do.
It’s a cheap shortcut to avoid spending money. And for a DIYer that’s fine. But it’s not fine furniture.
That being said, there is an argument for slightly white pigmented finishes like Rubio white hard wax oils because it doesn’t yellow like normal oils. So if you want that light white oak or ash aesthetic you don’t have a lot of options here.
The only other thing is danish soap finishes with chalk mixed in but that’s a high maintenance low protection option for a niche audience. Or you could go water based poly but that will darken the wood though not yellow it. And it will make it look like it’s encased in plastic because it literally is encased in plastic. So if you want a raw oak appearance that’s a tough one.
But in general you would pick the species of wood based on what color you want and then finish it with a clear finish like hard wax oil or wipe on varnish. And you get what you get. Basically you let the wood speak for itself.
If you’re going to spend money on maple then let the maple be maple. Don’t try to make it look like walnut. If you want walnut buy walnut.
Again DIYers who don’t care enough to spend money on quality furniture can do whatever they want. No judgement. Just explaining the perspective of “fine” furniture. Whatever that means.
Obviously the average person does not care about any of this at all. And the average DIYer probably doesn’t either.
Okay pinkies down and have a nice day everyone.
Quick question: do you water pop the wood or do you find Rubio good to go to 180 grit without having to pop the wood?
Thanks for the great tutorial!
@B Glad Woodworkings I have not water popped yet (because I keep forgetting to) and have had no issues to date, except for one species. That would be alder, and the only issue that I had was when using Precolor Easy. It kind of makes sense because Precolor is water based, and water is what makes grain raise. The same is true even on something like a cutting board. If you don't water pop a cutting board and jump staight to mineral oil, all is well. That is until the first couple of times that you wash it and the oil wears down and the water takes over. Interestingly enough I had no issues with alder at all when only using Oil Plus 2C. I've used the precolor on oak and ash without water popping and without issue.
The first thing I made with Oil Plus 2C is a dog bowl holder. No PreColor. No accelerator. No water popping. I did this six months ago now and while we do try to keep large water spills cleaned up, we definitely don't wipe up every drop that the dog drips on it. It is just as smooth and solid as the day we set it there. I only bring this up as an example of my own personal experience of wet use without water popping.
Hope that helps!
@@InspireWoodcraft Terrific and detailed reply. I really appreciate you responding. I'll move forward without water popping (unless I think it's absolutely necessary) more confidently now.
It does soak into the surface. Not super deep but it is not a layer on top only finish like polyurethane, which is essentially a layer of plastic on top of the surface. I like your video otherwise. Cheers
Dont use acetone, use methyl hydrate
Judging from the price, the stuff must be made of unicorn tears.
That doesn’t look like curly maple at all.
Acetone...and NO BREATHING PROTECTION??? It is really nasty stuff for your liver.
Sanding tutorial yet you sanded across the grain dude ..
@docdoc Hmm. Not really sure where you saw that. Random obit sanders can be used in any direction you want, and I always use sanding blocks with the grain unless it's for heavy material removal and with the intent of doing a final pass with the grain to get rid of scratch marks.
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