Watching your total amperage is always important. For example one time I was having a terrible time getting my 2900 watt inverter generator to start my air conditioner, it kept tripping. I eventually discovered the problem was that my 200 ah battery set was low and my 75 amp 3 stage converter was trying to dump 75 amps or some amount the greater part of that to the batteries. 75 amps times 12 volts is 900 watts, leaving only 2000 watts to cold start the air conditioner so it would trip. I discovered that if i turned off the fuse to the converter the air conditioner would start, and once it was running I could turn the converter back on and run both. But the 2900 watt generator did not have enough juice to run the converter and surge start the air conditioner at the same time. There are lots of potential loads in and RV that can lead to the same problem. For example a duel fuel propane/electric fridge can use up to 400 watts on electricity, they aren't very efficient. If you have your hot water running on electric to save propane that can use the better part of 1500 watts when it's heating. A microwave will often draw around 700 watts. A coffee pot 1200. Same with a hair dryer. The air conditioner might need 2000 watts to run on high, more to surge at start. A 30 amp source gets pretty trippy around 3300 watts total. So if the air conditioner is running it is pretty easy to trip a 30 amp circuit if other items are running on electricity.
Thanks Mark. As always good common sense solution. Having that multi-sized sewer connection has saved my but on more then one occasion. Also like having the soft donut also.
In Australia I have never seen a sewer connection for a caravan, virtually all sites have sullage connections and you are specifically told not to put sewerage into them. Most caravans have either cassette or blackwater tanks which are later emptied in dump points. Our 240 volt leads are a max amperage of 15 amps. And no analog tv signals anywhere, all digital.🇦🇺
Mark, I connect my water filter directly to the campground spigot with the regulator on the output of the filter. My late wife didn't like the flow reduction when she was taking a shower. Also, some campground water systems are so rusty (or have other contaminates) that they fill the regulator with their gunk and I am needing to replace it. Even after she passed away, filter first followed by the regulator works best for me. I also keep a replacement filter in the RV because the water in some campgrounds leaves a lot of residuals in the filter and I don't want them to accumulate so much that they start coming out the output side.
YOU ARE AMAZING!
MY WOMAN AND I APPRECIATE THE TIME YOU TAKE TO HELP OTHERS!
thank you
Watching your total amperage is always important. For example one time I was having a terrible time getting my 2900 watt inverter generator to start my air conditioner, it kept tripping. I eventually discovered the problem was that my 200 ah battery set was low and my 75 amp 3 stage converter was trying to dump 75 amps or some amount the greater part of that to the batteries. 75 amps times 12 volts is 900 watts, leaving only 2000 watts to cold start the air conditioner so it would trip. I discovered that if i turned off the fuse to the converter the air conditioner would start, and once it was running I could turn the converter back on and run both. But the 2900 watt generator did not have enough juice to run the converter and surge start the air conditioner at the same time. There are lots of potential loads in and RV that can lead to the same problem. For example a duel fuel propane/electric fridge can use up to 400 watts on electricity, they aren't very efficient. If you have your hot water running on electric to save propane that can use the better part of 1500 watts when it's heating. A microwave will often draw around 700 watts. A coffee pot 1200. Same with a hair dryer. The air conditioner might need 2000 watts to run on high, more to surge at start. A 30 amp source gets pretty trippy around 3300 watts total. So if the air conditioner is running it is pretty easy to trip a 30 amp circuit if other items are running on electricity.
Thanks Mark. As always good common sense solution. Having that multi-sized sewer connection has saved my but on more then one occasion. Also like having the soft donut also.
Would have mentioned the antenna booster switch .. must be off ( not lit) when hooked to cable.
In Australia I have never seen a sewer connection for a caravan, virtually all sites have sullage connections and you are specifically told not to put sewerage into them. Most caravans have either cassette or blackwater tanks which are later emptied in dump points. Our 240 volt leads are a max amperage of 15 amps. And no analog tv signals anywhere, all digital.🇦🇺
When talking electric box, you should have mentioned a surge protector
Mark, I connect my water filter directly to the campground spigot with the regulator on the output of the filter. My late wife didn't like the flow reduction when she was taking a shower. Also, some campground water systems are so rusty (or have other contaminates) that they fill the regulator with their gunk and I am needing to replace it. Even after she passed away, filter first followed by the regulator works best for me. I also keep a replacement filter in the RV because the water in some campgrounds leaves a lot of residuals in the filter and I don't want them to accumulate so much that they start coming out the output side.
Thanks for this info.
Good stuff/happy trails
The solution to to boon dock and get out of camp grounds full of rules - people -dogs etc
Thanks god bless
thanks mark
Thank you
Yea, there are better solutions for some of these, MUCH better!
yep, the GFCI took me 20 minutes to figure out when it happened.
I don't know what traveling and sleeping in a house on wheels with a big screen TV is, but it's not camping.
So the best is don't connect to anything.
No. 6 don’t buy one