TS115A Engine Valve Adjustment- a quick, simple way to do a routine maintenance procedure that is often overlooked. This method should be the same for most straight six cylinder engines.
For many farmers without any engine background, this is a great explanatory video. They can play it again and again to get a correct sense of how to do it. They can pause it and play it as they work on their machine. It also gives the general sense for any engine guide on any diesel machine. For me, I never learned, but watching you gave me flashbacks of my dad doing this on his tractors...
Just started watching your videos. Very interesting content. I am a retired surface coal mining heavy equipment mechanic . Had 43 years of turning wrenches. I am blessed!!! Keep up the great work. Be safe and God bless you and your family!!!!!!!
I make a Valve locknut adjuster socket. in this case it would be a 14mm deep socket, clawfoot socket -- Prep and weld the claw foot to the deep socket so you can put a breaker bar in the claw foot, and you can break loose the locknut, put a T handle allen wrench, screw driver, 1/4" extension with a 1/4 socket on the adjuster bolt (I've ground them down to fit inside the deep socket) adjust valve, lock locknut, rinse and repeat.
I'm a new subscriber to your Channel... Guy in Wyoming the first video of yours I watched was when you brought this home and the John Deere home I'm a absolute John Deere fan all the way... I liked this video by thé way catch you later buddy
All part of troubleshooting. KISS is king. Think you can show what kind of volume is coming out the crankcase vent? You by chance have a manometer? I'm just brainstorming over here. At least that engine looks like it is easy to pull injectors for compression and leak down testing.
More testing is needed!! If the cylinder leak-down test OK, it has to be fuel related. BTW: John Deere has used this valve adjustment method since 1960.
yeah I fought with my tractor for over a year I spent 8000 on to different injections pumps and finally got a good John Deere Tec out and got my timing fixed and haven't had anymore problems but good thing is we have more then just one tractor
Best thing to do is check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be 18-24psi at idle and 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load. If it's low, change pump. Next I'd pull the injectors. Use a small bore scope to inspect each piston top, valves, head, and cylinder walls for damage. Also look at spray pattern. You'll know if you have a bad nozzle. You'll also be able to spot a leaking head gasket most of the time. While the injectors are out get them pop tested. Visual inspection can sometimes reveal a cracked nozzle but it won't show a dripping nozzle. Could have a couple with a worn pintle springs in the body. Just my .02
Hey Guy in WY check your fuel filter and test your diesel fuel as you could have an algae growth in your diesel tank drain out some diesel fuel in a clear jug this is a common problem with diesel engines you could also have water in the diesel fuel as well
Hello I am a New Holland tech it sounds to me like you have an issue with the cold start advance In your IP check your power to the advance sender but chances are with that many hours the advance shaft in the pump is wore out and will have to be rebuilt.
Thing sounds like the fuel timing is way out, i had a 354 perkins that like crap like this one and I advanced the injection pump as far possible and it smoothed out. In the end, figured that the pump was defective. Does this motor have an injection pump or is more of a unit pump injector or common rail?
I know this is a high hour tractor but it certainly doesn't seem well cared for before you got it. 1. How many hours? 2. Can you get the piston out and re-ring from the bottom/oil pan like some engines if it comes to that?
Guy in WY Damn thats quite a few hrs too, injection pumps don't typically last that long, if there are no wrench marks from it being apart id suspect that first. Ulsd isn't as lubrcating as it was before
Hi Guy in WY, I am quite sure that the engine on the TS115A has internal EGR on it, using the valves for recirculation of the exhaust gas in the engine. That means that the method shown in the manual will not work as some of the valves you are adjusting are sitting on the extra lobe on the cam. You should only adjust the valves on cylinder no. 1 when no.6 is balanced and the other way around and so on. So I am sure the manual is wrong about this.
Karsten G. Poulsen he's doing it right. It's an Iveco NEF 12v 6.7lt (cummins design) and that's how you do it. There are no extra lobes on the cam. You can also find which cylinder is on compression stroke and adjust the opposite.
Guy in WY also don't trust manual valve clearance specs. Check the data plate on the left side. It'll have all the spec info needed on it for that engine. It's a good double check.
Guy in WY, Yes I know, I also checked the manual for this model and it shows the way you are doing it, the manual I looked in also covers the T6000 series (later model) and only shows the the same way, and all of the T6000 series uses internal EGR, the thing I don't remember is if all of the TS-A series has EGR or only the later ones. My point is that it is an easy adjustment to do again before pulling the injectors out. Not saying it will fix the problem but as you are able to do it yourself it's "free" and only takes a little time... The white smoke indicates a problem with combustion so not sure if it is the valve adjustment either.
Karsten G. Poulsen the cam lobe has a shorter duration on exhaust opening. This keeps some gas within the chamber for a reburn on the next compression stroke for that cylinder. Cam only has one lobe the tappet rides on. Pretty simple design and very efficient. This is how the in cylinder EGR works for this engine.
Have you tried cracking each injector in turn to see if one makes no difference to the missing?? And this pump will have a electricity fuel advance that's controlled on a separate temperature switch in the head above the pump somewhere if I remember correctly.
Guy in WY wrong, its not a cummins it's a IVECO/FPT engine And that engine hade international EGR so every cylinder need to be adjusted in TDC I've worked for FPT for 14 years as an application engineer
if the #1 is getting fuel and not firing its a more serious problem, what I would do is put compressed air into cylinder one, take out injector #2 and see if air comes out of #2 injector hole or somewhere else, seems like a blown head gasket or worse.
I did this to my 4 cylinder perking diesel which was running well until it ran on 3 cylinders, motor was not much good as blew plenty of smoke, when I took the head off I spotted the nightmare someone had done previously, damaged block between #1 and #2, had to get another block and rebuild the motor, runs perfect now.
Joel Holme I believe it has to do with the four-wheel-drive system on it do not quote me on that but it does look weird when the hoods up. I was wondering the same thing so I looked it up
If you're referring to the front wheels, the previous owner had them set out wide like this. You can adjust the width by changing how the front rims and discs are assembled, I'll probably leave it this way because it's easier to clear a windrow of hay.
Hi it still looks like you have a bad injector. I would remove them all and have them checked. The black smoke is more a sign of over fueling from a bad tip. Low compression should give you bluer exhaust smoke I would think.
If not valves, nor fuel pump or injectors it could be rings but can't tell until next thing you try to fix hope find problem that engine still sounds ruff
Jamie Shields doesn't seem to be any blue smoke out of it to say it's the rings tho I'm no mechanic but if the rings are gone wouldn't it be burning oil
Guy in WY I had a problem with my Massey 699 where the valve in the hand pump priming the diesel pump was worn and would pop out of place causing it to run rough.Dunno if new Holland have one tho
I probably don't know as much about Diesel's as I should I know a little bit and I want about 12 of them and now I'm not saying that it is what's wrong but it sounds to me like it is a sensor I'm trying to think of the name of the sensor that I had to replace on mine it's been years ago now it's a cam sensor or some off-the-wall shit like that on my Cummins it was on the front of the engine but give that a a looking at because it sounds just exactly like mine did whenever mine had that problem and good luck
steven keller in that case that it's a Bosch pump the valve is located on the side of the pump, it's connected to a sender in the cylinder pump. If it's a CAV pump, they are extremely sensitive to biofuel so if the tractor have been standing for a long time the advancer in the pump get stuck. In that case the pump needs to be dismantled and cleaned. If biofuel has been used and a lot of low idling theinjectors are prone to build up carbon and then the spray the fuel outside the combust chamber and you get misfiring This is not a Cummins engine, this is a Iveco/FPT engine, I worked as a application engineer for FPT for 14 years
Well hell... I've watched other videos and they GOT 'ER DONE in five minutes (or LESS) Seems as when you don't put the forks to a project it don'/t get 'er done !!
You look tired and disgusted. To bad it wasn't something as easy as what I did this spring. But I knew it wasn't going to be that easy. Hang in there. I don't have the know how to do your job.
Nothing to be sorry about man, I was just saying it usually nothing simple on a Diesel engine, having worked on locomotive engines in tug boats 671 Detroit on boats and trucks. So if my statement attended you somehow oh well.
No no I'm sorry I took it the wrong way like I thought you were commenting on something I said about the wind noise on his camera. So I deleted the message. It was a simple misunderstanding
It could be simple, but that's rarely my luck. As for the wind noise, I bought a foam cover for the GoPro.The problem is when I use it, the camera gets very hot and the battery dies in about half the normal time. I'm working on a better solution.
Exactly what I needed. Simplified yet thorough. Thanks.
For many farmers without any engine background, this is a great explanatory video. They can play it again and again to get a correct sense of how to do it. They can pause it and play it as they work on their machine. It also gives the general sense for any engine guide on any diesel machine. For me, I never learned, but watching you gave me flashbacks of my dad doing this on his tractors...
Thank you! I hope someone finds it useful.
Just started watching your videos. Very interesting content. I am a retired surface coal mining heavy equipment mechanic . Had 43 years of turning wrenches. I am blessed!!! Keep up the great work. Be safe and God bless you and your family!!!!!!!
Thank you sir!
Nice work. Looking forward to the next. Thanks for taking time to post.
Thanks!
Sorry for your troubles i to have a ts115a a few eltric problems but engine runs great i appreciate your videos
Everyone I've talked to that owned a TS115 or T6030 really had good things to say about them.
THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE
Thanks for watching!
I make a Valve locknut adjuster socket. in this case it would be a 14mm deep socket, clawfoot socket -- Prep and weld the claw foot to the deep socket so you can put a breaker bar in the claw foot, and you can break loose the locknut, put a T handle allen wrench, screw driver, 1/4" extension with a 1/4 socket on the adjuster bolt (I've ground them down to fit inside the deep socket) adjust valve, lock locknut, rinse and repeat.
Not a bad idea.
Bummer, but like you said, needed to be done anyway. Makes me appreciate my 1942 9n. Still hoping for the best with the problem.
I'm hoping to bring my 1948 8N out soon for a rebuild.
Great video!
Thank you
Wow, the suspense is thick on this one. The crowd is mumbling with conjecture on this or that. Carry on, my good Watson, do carry on!
Hopefully it will all be sorted before long.
Guy in WY q
so much for the simple solution
Not this time.
I'm a new subscriber to your Channel... Guy in Wyoming the first video of yours I watched was when you brought this home and the John Deere home I'm a absolute John Deere fan all the way... I liked this video by thé way catch you later buddy
+Kyle McElfresh thanks for watching Kyle!
Guy in WY you're welcome enjoyed it hope you get the old 8210 squared away seen that video hydraulic leaks are never fun
All part of troubleshooting. KISS is king. Think you can show what kind of volume is coming out the crankcase vent? You by chance have a manometer? I'm just brainstorming over here. At least that engine looks like it is easy to pull injectors for compression and leak down testing.
I can try to film the blobby but I don't have a manometer. This is pretty easy to get the injectors out though.
More testing is needed!! If the cylinder leak-down test OK, it has to be fuel related.
BTW: John Deere has used this valve adjustment method since 1960.
My plan is if the leak down checks out, to pull the IP and injectors and send them all out to be rebuilt.
yeah I fought with my tractor for over a year I spent 8000 on to different injections pumps and finally got a good John Deere Tec out and got my timing fixed and haven't had anymore problems but good thing is we have more then just one tractor
Sounds like a major headache, glad they got it right!
Best thing to do is check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be 18-24psi at idle and 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load. If it's low, change pump. Next I'd pull the injectors. Use a small bore scope to inspect each piston top, valves, head, and cylinder walls for damage. Also look at spray pattern. You'll know if you have a bad nozzle. You'll also be able to spot a leaking head gasket most of the time. While the injectors are out get them pop tested. Visual inspection can sometimes reveal a cracked nozzle but it won't show a dripping nozzle. Could have a couple with a worn pintle springs in the body. Just my .02
And after that, I'd checked timing and injection pump as recommended below. Does it have a mechanical rotary pump or Bosch VP20/30 style?
It's a mechanical rotary.
Guy in WY I'd recommend after checking all above, check timing. If timing is good, replace the injection pump. Buy new not reman IMO.
Guy in WY if it ends up being injection pump, call Columbus Diesel Supply. They are #1 in my book!
Great video, thanks for posting. I'd be worried about dirt dropping down into the valve assembly!
There wasn't too much for dirt to fall off of with the air box removed.
Hey Guy in WY check your fuel filter and test your diesel fuel as you could have an algae growth in your diesel tank drain out some diesel fuel in a clear jug this is a common problem with diesel engines you could also have water in the diesel fuel as well
+JDS Lawcare & Landscape fuel filter is new, fuel is okay. Should have another update soon!
Looks like you found your winter project.
This tractor is destined for snow removal this winter, so I'd like to get it fixed before then.
Hello I am a New Holland tech it sounds to me like you have an issue with the cold start advance In your IP check your power to the advance sender but chances are with that many hours the advance shaft in the pump is wore out and will have to be rebuilt.
Fingers crossed man
Thanks!
How many millimeters are the suction and exhaust valves adjusted?
Thing sounds like the fuel timing is way out, i had a 354 perkins that like crap like this one and I advanced the injection pump as far possible and it smoothed out. In the end, figured that the pump was defective. Does this motor have an injection pump or is more of a unit pump injector or common rail?
Rotary injection pump.
We will be waiting :-) :-)👍🏻
Thanks!
Nice vid
Thank you!
I know this is a high hour tractor but it certainly doesn't seem well cared for before you got it. 1. How many hours? 2. Can you get the piston out and re-ring from the bottom/oil pan like some engines if it comes to that?
8,360 hours. I don't know if it can be done in frame or not, hopefully I don't need to find out for a while.
Guy in WY
Ya you can do everything on those in frame other then machining the block
Guy in WY
Damn thats quite a few hrs too, injection pumps don't typically last that long, if there are no wrench marks from it being apart id suspect that first. Ulsd isn't as lubrcating as it was before
Hi Guy in WY, I am quite sure that the engine on the TS115A has internal EGR on it, using the valves for recirculation of the exhaust gas in the engine. That means that the method shown in the manual will not work as some of the valves you are adjusting are sitting on the extra lobe on the cam. You should only adjust the valves on cylinder no. 1 when no.6 is balanced and the other way around and so on. So I am sure the manual is wrong about this.
Karsten G. Poulsen he's doing it right. It's an Iveco NEF 12v 6.7lt (cummins design) and that's how you do it. There are no extra lobes on the cam. You can also find which cylinder is on compression stroke and adjust the opposite.
I can't find any evidence of an EGR system on this engine. Adjusting the valves the way I did is the specified method for this particular tractor.
Guy in WY also don't trust manual valve clearance specs. Check the data plate on the left side. It'll have all the spec info needed on it for that engine. It's a good double check.
Guy in WY, Yes I know, I also checked the manual for this model and it shows the way you are doing it, the manual I looked in also covers the T6000 series (later model) and only shows the the same way, and all of the T6000 series uses internal EGR, the thing I don't remember is if all of the TS-A series has EGR or only the later ones. My point is that it is an easy adjustment to do again before pulling the injectors out. Not saying it will fix the problem but as you are able to do it yourself it's "free" and only takes a little time... The white smoke indicates a problem with combustion so not sure if it is the valve adjustment either.
Karsten G. Poulsen the cam lobe has a shorter duration on exhaust opening. This keeps some gas within the chamber for a reburn on the next compression stroke for that cylinder. Cam only has one lobe the tappet rides on. Pretty simple design and very efficient. This is how the in cylinder EGR works for this engine.
Good video
Thanks!
What do you think happened to get water in hydraulic oil
I have no idea what could create that much water.
Have you tried cracking each injector in turn to see if one makes no difference to the missing?? And this pump will have a electricity fuel advance that's controlled on a separate temperature switch in the head above the pump somewhere if I remember correctly.
I have tried cracking the injector lines. At low idle it makes no difference, at high idle it's #1.
Guy in WY these are pretty reliable engines would think it's more fuel related,had a similar problem with a tm that turned out to be an injector.
Injection timing is of is what it sounds like but it could just how pump issue to
Have you tryed adjusting the timing to see if it helps that seems to be my go to. And is it down on power or does it seem to pull good.
Power feels a little low but I haven't gotten it under a large load yet.
Man, I was really hoping that the valve adjust would solve your engine issue…darn. Like you said though, good to do for maintenance anyway.
It was a long shot, but at least I know it's right now.
it was trust me but love your videos hope you have a great day I.gotta get around go get my baker ready and Grease it up.and go bale some hay
Glad you're enjoying them!
Awesome but sad it does not solve the problem, looking forward to the rest
Glad you enjoyed it!
Is that a Cummins engine in the Ford? Could the problem be a broken top compression ring ?
.
It is a Cummins, a variant of the 5.9 liter. I did a leak down test today and identified the problem.
Guy in WY wrong, its not a cummins it's a IVECO/FPT engine
And that engine hade international EGR so every cylinder need to be adjusted in TDC
I've worked for FPT for 14 years as an application engineer
if the #1 is getting fuel and not firing its a more serious problem, what I would do is put compressed air into cylinder one, take out injector #2 and see if air comes out of #2 injector hole or somewhere else, seems like a blown head gasket or worse.
+actorzone that is essentially what a leakdown test is, I plan to do one tonight if I have time or tomorrow.
I did this to my 4 cylinder perking diesel which was running well until it ran on 3 cylinders, motor was not much good as blew plenty of smoke, when I took the head off I spotted the nightmare someone had done previously, damaged block between #1 and #2, had to get another block and rebuild the motor, runs perfect now.
What did you find wrong with it
I should have that video up in a few days.
How many acres do you farm?
+Tim Mcgimpsey not counting grazing land I think we'll do about 400 acres of hay this year.
@@GuyinWY 25 part timer
Just wondering why is the the wheel so far out?
Joel Holme I believe it has to do with the four-wheel-drive system on it do not quote me on that but it does look weird when the hoods up. I was wondering the same thing so I looked it up
I hope I didn't come off rude when I answered that for you
Todd The Farm it could but here in the U.K. We have 4 wheel drive tractors that are thin
If you're referring to the front wheels, the previous owner had them set out wide like this. You can adjust the width by changing how the front rims and discs are assembled, I'll probably leave it this way because it's easier to clear a windrow of hay.
Hi it still looks like you have a bad injector. I would remove them all and have them checked. The black smoke is more a sign of over fueling from a bad tip. Low compression should give you bluer exhaust smoke I would think.
If I pull the injection pump, the injectors will be going with it for rebuilding.
Well i have never seen a pump put too much fuel out. It will usually not pump enough
gerald pettigrew
Thats why the smoke is white and not black. Underfueling injections.
Hi ok in your video it looked black
You have a cracked cylinder head judging by the sound of the turbo.
It's possible.
The crack is between the valves seats. Either a dry crack or the cooling issue will appear when the coolant level gets low again.
If not valves, nor fuel pump or injectors it could be rings but can't tell until next thing you try to fix hope find problem that engine still sounds ruff
Jamie Shields doesn't seem to be any blue smoke out of it to say it's the rings tho I'm no mechanic but if the rings are gone wouldn't it be burning oil
I'm very suspicious of the injection pump still.
Guy in WY I had a problem with my Massey 699 where the valve in the hand pump priming the diesel pump was worn and would pop out of place causing it to run rough.Dunno if new Holland have one tho
Sounds like it may be out of time when my John Deere 6420 done that thought it was fuel injectors come to find out it was out of time
A timing or injection problem seems likely.
Can we have an update on the ts it has been a few weeks
+Eileen Smith I'm planning to have a video up this week about it. I got the injection pump back a few days ago
bayler not baker
I probably don't know as much about Diesel's as I should I know a little bit and I want about 12 of them and now I'm not saying that it is what's wrong but it sounds to me like it is a sensor I'm trying to think of the name of the sensor that I had to replace on mine it's been years ago now it's a cam sensor or some off-the-wall shit like that on my Cummins it was on the front of the engine but give that a a looking at because it sounds just exactly like mine did whenever mine had that problem and good luck
This one doesn't have any sort of electrical system for the injection pump beyond the shutoff that I can find.
Guy in WY cool partner well it was worth a try it just sounds like to me that the timing is off anyway like I said good luck and I wish you the best
Guy in WY It should have a valve on the pump controlled by temperature to get the proper timing
Martin Andersson well then that may very well be where the problem is because it is a timing problem or at least seems like it to me
steven keller in that case that it's a Bosch pump the valve is located on the side of the pump, it's connected to a sender in the cylinder pump.
If it's a CAV pump, they are extremely sensitive to biofuel so if the tractor have been standing for a long time the advancer in the pump get stuck.
In that case the pump needs to be dismantled and cleaned.
If biofuel has been used and a lot of low idling theinjectors are prone to build up carbon and then the spray the fuel outside the combust chamber and you get misfiring
This is not a Cummins engine, this is a Iveco/FPT engine, I worked as a application engineer for FPT for 14 years
I can see the frustration in your face. Hopefully it all pans out well.
Worst case scenario, I'll rebuild the engine. :)
Well hell... I've watched other videos and they GOT 'ER DONE in five minutes (or LESS)
Seems as when you don't put the forks to a project it don'/t get 'er done !!
Filming slows me down a little.
Sounds like the fuel pump
Very likely.
Guy in WY
Id say its the injection pump.
Video had a gratuitous lack of coffee. :(
I'll try to do better in the next one. :)
Traduire.en.francais
Sound like the man wasn't honest
+Joel Henderson in my opinion some things were very misrepresented.
You look tired and disgusted. To bad it wasn't something as easy as what I did this spring. But I knew it wasn't going to be that easy. Hang in there. I don't have the know how to do your job.
I've been running close to 18-20 hour days lately, I think tired is my new look.
Rude, it couldn't be something simple could it
I'm so sorry for being honest
Nothing to be sorry about man, I was just saying it usually nothing simple on a Diesel engine, having worked on locomotive engines in tug boats 671 Detroit on boats and trucks. So if my statement attended you somehow oh well.
No no I'm sorry I took it the wrong way like I thought you were commenting on something I said about the wind noise on his camera. So I deleted the message. It was a simple misunderstanding
It could be simple, but that's rarely my luck. As for the wind noise, I bought a foam cover for the GoPro.The problem is when I use it, the camera gets very hot and the battery dies in about half the normal time. I'm working on a better solution.