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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
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We returned back to the Franklin remodel job to set the Gree Flexx 5 ton variable speed 5 ton heat pump split unit. Starting on the duct system which is a three zone system using EWC zone board, zone dampers, and a smart bypass damper. Hope you enjoy the video!!
#gree #hvac #heatpump
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I dont care how fast it gets done. I care how well it is done. I am very slow but very precise. Never hurry anything and never compromise quality. Been in the game for 28 years. If you are good and do it right then you will never have to worry.
Nah, you gotta be efficient if you’re too slow you won’t make enough an hour cuz it takes you too many hours.
@@BabyKMoney I do just fine.
Agree , working methodically once , is quicker than working speedy twice
@@BabyKMoney My guy, if you're paid hourly then going slower gets you MORE money.
@@RossLemon lol not if it take you too long bud. If I can get my jobs done faster, I’m worth more and hour and I have to work less. Work 70 hrs if you wanna bud I’ll pull the same amount working 40 and fast.
No one runs Flex in a basement here in Pennsylvania we run rectangular sheetmetal ductwork with round sheetmetal supply and return pipes. Flex only belongs in un-coditioned spaces, attic, crawl, etc.. We have supply and return ducts in each room "No returns in kitchen, baths" We perform our own load calc and install equipment and materials using our own employees. Just keep promoting products and entertain the homeowners!
I always pour a concrete pad for those tall condensing units. Then anchor to the concrete. Takes a bit more time but really solid that way.
Just poured my concrete pad today. Didn’t want to put extra holes in my steel building and the 4 ton condenser case, and I think it would of looked like crap.
❤❤❤
I would definitely not connect the condenser to the house, we did that and even with rubber feet between the strap and house it still coupled a lot of noise into the building. We ended up pounding 4 feet of half inch all thread into the ground through each foot and that seemed to make it really solid
@7:30 I get the time of installation thing... But why not pour a level pad of concrete that a 12"+ stand could be bolted ? auger a couple 6"x48"holes with rebar to fill with cement. condensoer off the ground for winter snow/leaves, ect... No all thread to the house because its secured to the ground.
Not exactly the way we do ductwork in the Midwest & up north. We use rectangular ductwork with return drops (more head room and doesn’t take up as much room in the basement).Your insulation is outstanding, definitely will need it in that crawlspace. I’m assuming you guys use a lot of round duct, because the majority of your work in Tennessee is probably in attics (not many basements).
I'm in PA and all we use is rectangular duct for the trunks with round takeoffs. This way looks like a mess.
I’m in NY and we use a combo of both round duct for tight attics and square duct for basements and taller attics. I did install a unit like this and I did square ducts with round take off ran the main line down the left side of the house and flexed the rest in the joists. My return I was able to build a box run multiple returns in the wall. Kept everything into one corner so the client had more room for storage. Every job is different and it all depends on the load cal. It also helps if the whole house is open to studs. Very clean install tho otherwise I have to say tho I never installed a bypass on the return can you do a video explaining why it’s there the benefits and such! That would be good to know and perhaps maybe I can incorporate it on my future installs! Thanks!
@@Anthony-nr1nd bypass is used on multizone system. When you close 2 zones and only one zone is open there is higher esp, in order to relieve it bypass is installed.
@@williamserver4332 , Pennsylvania, where the steel and metal legacy started👍. We do the same thing in Missouri. In the Saint Louis Metropolitan area, we are also required to install Air returns in every room when possible (bathrooms and kitchens are exempt for obvious reasons).
@@boby115 yep. Sam here. It is strange to see how other arras of the country do things. The round trunk is ridiculous.
Have your electrical contractor return. At 11:49 you should the wall outlet for the Line set but the conduit for the electrical is drill downwards so any water will track down the outside as I cannot view any sealant.
I saw that too. Looks very low quality of product and install to me.
Most I've seen also have a surge protector outside too.
I like installing a return by each thermostat that is zoned. Works much better that way
Just a idea, here in ontario we use brackets on every install from ductless to heatpump units, tapcon into concrete or just hang on side of house and it elevates it from snow or flooding, plus looks alot cleaner.
He’s in Tennessee. Not much snow
@@cadamham snow stand. 18inch minimum
i use 36x48 pads and quick sling bracket to raise heatpump off ground
I could watch this guy work everyday. The best! Love your videos Zac.
Let them ad's play boys.
That’s always how it goes, running around for something additional or something takes longer but that’s how you can tell that you are doing a good job.
Here in Missouri we always have risers on the heat pumps
Looks good, flex kind of cheapens it up
Very nice stuff. Love the through wall lineset. Here on Miami Beach a lot of times have used preformed concrete 4" slab and aluminum rails 18", 2'ft, etc above flood to meet code.
6"x6" forms, a little AB in the middle to 3 1/2" ,pour concrete and set anchors for the unit. This will raise you off the grade for water and provide a solid foundation for the tall condensing unit.
Hey brother, watchin your videos from out here is Melbourne Australia, love your content! Been running my own hvac business here for over 5 years now and your channel has been a great inspiration
Bugger mate. Seeing a few of those monster trucks around down under, I recon Toyota is still the best.
Use 1/4" crushed stone to put underneath your CU pad, helps to level and stays like that.
People down here bitch about every penny. They will go with the cheapest person doesn’t matter if it looks good or not to them
I agree. It helps in many ways to have a packing gravel bed to help keep a solid base and allow drainage.
Should have asked a customer if it floods there or just get in a habit of creating min of 6" for every job you do. Most places if shows and rains and people use leaf blowers and snow plowers. I live in SC and raised my to 12" when so I can blow leaves under it with ease. Just a tip!
You could’ve used a sling stand they’re called you get about 18-24 inches they are mainly used for heat pumps, nice work fellas!
Not sure if you've already encountered this but I replaced a Daikin air handler circuit board recently and found out the hard way you have to order a capacity adaptor separately. Tech support never mentioned it when they told me to replace the board.
You now Should raise the hole so the suction line slopes down towards the compressor for good oil return.
Looking good. Nice job on bypass damper most guys “bypass” that step.
It's all good, Good job Zack and Trevor, I personally would have mixed up cement, made a slab out of concrete, and raised it as high as needed, and use concrete anchors to hold it down on the slab, and maybe use uni strut to hold the top, good job anyway, keep it going.
To stabilize I use 2 pieces of strut with angle brackets to lag into the house if the siding permits then on the top of unit I use 2 3/8 stainless sheet metal screws per side with the stainless washers that have the rubber on the bottom and it's very solid. Not many other options. Just obviously check your clearance inside but there's plenty of room to screw into just stay away from top of your coil,the rest is wide open
Not to be rude, but if that were my basement I would be pretty disappointed. The round pipe & flex are taking up way too much of the ceiling space. Like others mentioned; square duct is the way to go for a basement like that. I'm guessing you are not allowed to pan bays for your returns. That would help simplify some of the ducts crossing over each other. Anyway, I'm kind of shocked by this install. I knew something was up when I saw the bags of flex piled up outside. May god have mercy on your soul. (just kidding about that part)
Love Zac's videos. Great content and he knows his stuff! But I agree with your comment from a design standpoint that basement is huge and would be nice finished. From my experience what I would have done on this one is use rectangular duct around the outside perimeter of the basement ceiling then shoot round duct runs between the floor joices to reach the walls in the middle areas of the upper floor. This way when the basement is finished and the ceiling is drywalled it has a nice uniform bulkhead around the perimeter walls also when the framing in the basement is finished it's easy to cut a ceiling register in.
But as anything goes all these things take a lot of planning and money and maybe the homeowner opted for a certain design plan.
Just my two cents. Keep up the great content Zac! I'd love to see some pool heater install videos if ya get any of those jobs.
Get that water heater that is there OUT NOW!!!. I had the same one that had a relay failure and caught on fire. Yes the electric water heater caught fire because one of the relays did something and caused that plastic control box on top to catch fire because it is made out of plastic.
Many distributors sell UV resistant line set tape. It works. Grab you some.
looks super professional , great job .. love the details even on the outlet of the pipes. let me tell you ppl down here in south florida lack a lot on this worksmanship.... im always running onto hacked jobs
Miami especially lmao
You should consider doing your own load calcs. How else to properly size equipment on residential change-out jobs?
Only takes about 30 minutes to punch everything into a computer program and spit out the results. Manual J & manual D.
I totally agree with the title of this video. What I would have done? Where do we start........ LOL
Don't know if unit is straight cool or a heatpump. If it's a heat pump you need to consider snow level in winter if you get snow a lot which in that case the outdoor unit should be raised off the ground for better drainage
Not sur but I think snow is rare in this area
I do like that termination box with the rubber boot. Looks clean I havnt seen those
I started making stands to put them on. I’ve had problems with ice damns. Get rid of pad.
You do nice work but you should have poured a thick concrete pad to mount that unit.
Cut the line and 90 up and over so you don't have to re do it. Would still look nice if kept close to the wall. As always great work bro
I love how you are concerned about the condensation from the ducts, meanwhile, a waterfall is coming down that basement window. LOL. Nice video!
How is that GREE? What is the GREE rebranded to in other countries? For instance, ACiQ is rebranded to Carrier, from what I've heard.
Super clean work man I appreciate your channel very much!
If you learn to weld you make your own metal stand
That uv wrap is code here in my part of Virginia.
I do the same exact method on the high double fan units. I use stainless all thread with mounting feet to attach to home. They are very tall and you never know what could happen.
Why not just put the condenser on a stand?
awesome job sir!! but ive ran into a couple of calls where the homeowner complained about black dust shooting through the vents and clogging filters and it was due to old internally insulated plenums coming apart not my go too but badass install sir 🔥🔥🔥🔥💯💯💯💯💯💯
I add cleats to older duct if it’s reused at any point. Normally I don’t use insulation on the inside all wrapped
AIRex looks nice but at 50 bucks I m using 7 dollar thumb gum.
Thank you! Keep up the great work. Thanks for the video
Not a fan of running flex, instead hard duct seems to be more appropriate. Still you did a great job.
Like the attention to detail you do.
What if you add rocks to the ground and make concrete on top of it and have the condenser sit on top of concrete? Might look nicer and more solid foundation?
That’s gotta be a 25 thousand dollar job. You always do exceptional work
The equipment is only around 4 to 5 grand. You can buy it yourself - mrcool sells it as the universal lineup.
@@sprockkets you consider all the flex, line set, whip, disconnect, wires for heat strips, heat strips, plenums, ect…. Adds up. Then labor on top of that.
That would be robbery to charge that much id charge 15k max
🙄
If new install? Couldn't tell you. If I had no ducts I would do ductless - dampers are shit. And while I know this guy does good work, he should have at least watched Gree's video on this system, at bare minimum. Heck they officially post them on TH-cam, and the former guy from new jersey is hilarious.
Nice work
I do love your work
Always nice and clean
I hate uv protection comes in those kit
But Northeastern Supply has line set with uv insulation they are nice I used them with Mitsubishi products.
It probably says in the manual that the unit needs to be mounted off the ground, that what it says for my pioneer a/c.
Of course the actual blocks are not available, backorder I guess. So I'm gonna have to use some 4x4 ground contact rated wood instead. Idk what else I can do.
You might have done a manual J. I don’t think you did a manual D calculation because those flex ducts look a little small for 5 tons or 1800-2000 CFM.
This area floods a little bit. How about getting all that information before you start the job? These are questions to ask. Also Mr. and Mrs. Customer, do you prefer this cheap, hollow, plastic pad instead of my recommended solid concrete pad?
Do you have a video showing proper pressure/evacuation procedures for multi zone mini splits?
Pretty Poor DuctWork Job I thought, and we always use metal ducts until the last 5 feet and then use a flex connection.
Definitely not what I'm used to seeing here in the North East. Looks sloppy and amateur-ish. I like the look of metal duct work. Crisp and clean. : )
@@bushmaster2936 Probably because this is a remodel and not new construction. Easier to do proper metal ducts in a new construction.
@@brnmcc01 Looks like they have an open canvas to run duct work until they hit the basement partitions. Just looks like a half fast budget scenario going on. Not my house, nor reputation, so no worries.
@@bushmaster2936 Yep, looks like flex spaghetti to me. I don't think that's enough return air for 5 tons either.
Have to agree. In the south they all do stupid stuff. Like underhouse drain lines, who tf thinks that's a good idea.
Do you guys have preformed concrete pads where you are? We're not allowed to use plastic at all here... That waffle pattern sink right in the dirt anyway..
We can but we pour concrete, lasts much longer. ..
@@Paulie1232 sure, but clearly he's not going that route... Just wondering why use a flimsy plastic pad then go through all that mounting to the house bull shit when you can get a preformed concrete pad and have it anchored down
Edit: Also, how does poured concrete last longer than preformed concrete? I'm on board with arguments for it being more secure, but lasting longer?
Wow I can tell you guy’s not in south Florida. I never seen a air handler setup like that before. #Dope install
Gree unit's are very good. Nice work
I love how they wait to tell you oh that floods.
Make this a series!
Love the videos as always. Why not use a variable speed blower in the air handler and eliminate that horrible bypass damper?
I've actually never heard of gree we install strictly mitsu or Lennox for splits. Generally we use the metal wall brackets to hang the unit off side of house for these mini split type condensers but for these giant units we pour a pad and use strut to build a stand. I don't like the flimsy Mitsubishi stands they are awful and look ugly. You can also build your wall mount out of strut as well but we found some solid ones at my local supply house if I think of the brand I'll repost I can't remember it's been a while, not many people can afford these systems anymore
5 ton? Whats the sq ft on the house, didnt look that big in the basement/crawl.
Up here in Oregon, we install all VRF style heat pumps with risers. I suppose y'all don't have the same concern for snow in TN.
Erm. Love your commitment. But use tin in basements with exposed joists my guy. It will work what you did. But how can they finish that basement if they want to? Flex is for attics and spaces which will be closed up immediately. Here in Canada that would fail inspection. But it works. Just not here. And I'm probably sure this was the budget. Work with what your budget is I guess.
Why is everything done in flex?
Gree Flexx systems are awesome.Ive installed 2 to 5 ton sizes both airhandler side and condenser side.Ive youve got a good plan for the flare fittings its pretty much cake.
New to all this but can you touch on the bypass that you hope to never use….really curious about this price of equipment and unfamiliar with it’s use. Thanks!
Sorry, I would have the pad at least 6 inch above the soil level, just due to the elements. (rain/snow). LOL, if it was in my neighborhood, then it should be mounted on the side of the wall about 3 ft up due to floods. Hmm, I'm also thinking that dogs will tear up your free-floating external copper piping just since it looks like an exposed play toy. (Especially if they have any Labrador puppies then you can say goodbye. lol) Thanks for you content.
What is that thing called that is being attached to the wall at 8:13 and why don't other installer use that?
Silicon around the electrical whip
Great 👍 job
Play sand a blocks work wonders
That eflex guard stuff is code required here and it sucks compared to doing a good tape job with the uv pvc tape....the eflex just always looks hacked up using all the transition pieces on bends and zip ties.the titan flashing is good though no complaints but its the only portion of the kit that isn't code required. All my local guys are convinced whoever started that company has a friend in or county code department.
I can tell u from personal experience they have saved my fingers/hands a few times
Might better use some isolation springs on that condenser unit if you are going to fasten it solid because of vibration
Gree is coming really
Strong to the usa market, soon to be competing with the big dawgs.
You could have used a quick sling stand. They are super rugged and wouldn’t have had to worry about securing the top. They are a little pricey but make all of the difference in that situation.
Canadian here we always use snowstands at least 18 inches above grade for most things!
We have just installed one in New Zealand Gree GUD160 Ducted Heat Pump System and the unit is super noisey! Does anyone have any ideas how to solve. It’s mounted on concrete and about 30cm away from the house. The noise seems to be created from the airflow between the house and the back of the unit? Any help would be appreciated as we are at our wits end how to solve it without having to move the whole unit.
Gree flex decibels
If I was the homeowner, I’d pour a concrete pad with threaded anchor points instead of that plastic base.
been nice if the homeowner would've mentioned potential flooding
Idk how the they get away with all this flex up here in New England we can’t have more than 11ft of flex on a run. Everything is hard pipe (round or rec depending) and then then taps to the registers
Dura-Blocks is one of the brands for those “risers”.
Do you have a video of the package unit dolly you made? I’d like to see how they work.
Would have been nice if they told you early on about the area flooding
The insulation on the inside is great in the beginning but as it ages. it will start to deteriorate. Once that happen, it’s going to release fibers into the air. Definitely not great for air quality and health 🤷🏻♂️
How do you properly this unit? Thanks
Keep spending on junk. Customers love that lol
Nice work 💯
EWC good prod. In zone system
Customer should have told you about the water in the yard before the install began.
I like to mount them on the wall on a bracket. That would have solved that issue.
I don't understand why people insulate the duct when it is instlled in a conditioned space
That basement is damp, and probably not conditioned or only partially conditioned space. High humidity climate as well probably. If this house was in the desert southwest that has single digit humidity, and dew points under 32 degrees, there is no condensation to worry about. Southeast part of the country everything sweats...including the installers!
Looks fire 🔥
Hey looks good if the condenser is above the air handler do you have to put inverted traps in the line set? I know most Manufactures want that and some leave it in the gray area! Love the packout van am working on mine too good luck buddy keep up the good work . Have you seen the sling condenser stands for the ground I would use that .
I believe only if the condenser is more than 30 feet (not sure exact distance) above the furnace/air handler it needs a trap. Where I'm at in the Midwest 95% of units are set up like this video without a trap.
@@aaronburke2469 I never seen Minimum distance above all I’ve seen if the condenser is above the air handler they need to be trapped check out the condenser install manual for this condenser pretty sure it’s there . I have seen on blue prints on Commercial jobs that are engineered that they were multiple traps if it’s vertically more than 50 feet let’s say they want multiple traps going down On a Multi story building it all depends on what the manufacturer or engineer wants.
I'm thinking no. If you want exact specs refer to install manual, or watch their contractor videos here on TH-cam on their gree channel.
Hi Zack. What kind of lineset and insulation do you use. Have you had lineset formicary corrosion on the minisllits?
What made you decide on the Gree brand
How has those gree units been for u? Cuse over here they have been nothing but headaches to the point that we completely stopped using them.
I watch a couple of HVAC channels, and the Gree equipment seems to be the darling of the moment with lots of folks doing first-time installs of it. I guess because it's new, it's something different and interesting. But without fail, I find lots of comments like yours describing real-life track records on the gear that aren't too good. Evidentially, the equipment is a bear to work on because the internal layout is pretty bad.
I'm old school - I like to go with established names that have track records to look at and that are still building good gear. I'm also not interested in chasing the newest tech or highest performance. With that comes high up-front costs and high replacement parts costs that can make the break-even point on energy savings too far out into the future.
Not our 1st choice but at the moment it’s all we can get relatively quick
Gree is junk. Bosch heat pumps and air handler. Mistubishi for mini splits
@@brooksparadis2230 Care to support your statement ?
Been selling/ installing Gree products for 10 years and I have no complaints and the customers are happy.
I say do it RIGHT or don’t do it at all