I use my dremel tool with a base plate and a straight bit. First, I use a razor knife to cut the outline of the tool, then set the depth of the dremel bit and route out the recess. The bottom of the recess is perfectly flat and is very smooth. It's easy to make recesses of varying depths for uneven shaped tools. Finally, I go over the surface with a heat gun set to lowest setting, 12 inches from foam, and keep the gun moving fast. As I'm routing it isn't even necessary to route all the way to the edge that was cut with the knife. Works very well.
These work really well, but you'll never get a flat-as-a-board bottom with a hand-held drill. Use a drill press with a depth stop. Cut the outline, then peel back the foam as you would normally, but leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The cutter doesn't always work if it's too thin. Too thick, and it's difficult to plow through. This method allows removing a perfect 1/8 inch layer for thinner tools, like scales and squares. And it'll perfectly even out the deeper bottom you already botched trying to dig out with your fingernail.
You chaps have some great ideas and tools wish we could have things like that here in the uk 🇬🇧 l have looked at posting them too us but sometimes we end up paying inport tax not good stay safe 👏👏👍
Yeah I understand why you came up with these tools cause I don't think they were available 3y ago and it's either a mess or a watchmaker work to get a clean flat layer, about one hour per cutout with a scalpel.
The hot knife is a little small for flattening. Perhaps you could develop a kit of flat heated shapes - from small to large, that when heated and applied, would be able to flatten a greater 'surface area'. The shapes (small to large) could be square, rectangular, circular, ellipse, triangular - whatever one wants, and could be heated like the knife; or through the use a heat gun; or one heating element could plug into all the different flattening tools etc etc. The hot knife could be used to smooth any remaining edges. Of course, 10% profit to me for these ideas will apply... LOL :) Thank you.
Can I see a quick video of what you mean and how that would work? Seems like if it’s convex it just wouldn’t cut, and concave it would walk everywhere with no control? But maybe I’m missing the idea. lukas@fastcap.com
@@FastCapLLC I don’t understand the concept to the question either. I’m assuming they’re looking for a more snug fitting cavity which in my opinion wouldn’t necessarily improve the actual purpose of the cavity, which is decluttering, in keeping tools organized by having a designated placement. Perhaps carving the inside edges to snug fit prevents tilting, but if people are really that anal, go purchase ball tip carving burrs which comes in a large variety of sizes & go at it!
I think what he is talking about is a tool that would help a hole with a rounded bottom for cylindrical things like camera lenses. I've been trying to figure out how to do that. One way is to make molds and use two part foam. I watched a video on that and for sure that is more work than I'm up for. Right now I think I am going to try a stepped series of holes and call it good enough but a nice fitting hole would look neater and would provide some better shock resistance. Thanks for the video. It was helpful for me.
@@davefoc That’s what I assumed, which is why I’m suggesting ball or round tipped burrs for rotary tools. There’s a variety of sizes ranging upwards from 1/8” diameter shafts. It’s just a matter of selecting your rotary tool of choice, either a hand tool like Dremel or Foredom, to a larger type, like palm routers.
@@FastCapLLC Awesome, thanks! You guys might want to tag that item with "bit holder"... I was searching your site and couldn't find it. Thanks for the link ;)
@@FastCapLLC I was expecting something on the lines of an "anvil" (is that the correct term?) of a jigsaw or the (transparent) base-plate of a palm-router. This would keep the tool-tip perpendicular to the foam, and would prevent the user from cutting too deep.
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I use my dremel tool with a base plate and a straight bit. First, I use a razor knife to cut the outline of the tool, then set the depth of the dremel bit and route out the recess. The bottom of the recess is perfectly flat and is very smooth. It's easy to make recesses of varying depths for uneven shaped tools. Finally, I go over the surface with a heat gun set to lowest setting, 12 inches from foam, and keep the gun moving fast. As I'm routing it isn't even necessary to route all the way to the edge that was cut with the knife. Works very well.
@jimbennett7248 Great idea! Thanks for sharing
This is awesome. We bought the hot knife kit and I think this’ll be even easier.
I love Kaizan Foam, but I'm not going to buy any until it's offered with a nice blue core, similar to the color of many popular tool boxes.
These work really well, but you'll never get a flat-as-a-board bottom with a hand-held drill. Use a drill press with a depth stop. Cut the outline, then peel back the foam as you would normally, but leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The cutter doesn't always work if it's too thin. Too thick, and it's difficult to plow through. This method allows removing a perfect 1/8 inch layer for thinner tools, like scales and squares. And it'll perfectly even out the deeper bottom you already botched trying to dig out with your fingernail.
@joestallings6993 Thanks for the feedback, and awesome tips and tricks!
I was just thinking about using a Dremel, then this came up. Thanks!
I do the same thing with my Dremel saw bit.
This is fantastic!
You chaps have some great ideas and tools wish we could have things like that here in the uk 🇬🇧 l have looked at posting them too us but sometimes we end up paying inport tax not good stay safe 👏👏👍
Onde posso comprar esse kit?
@GIBAINSTRUMENTOS www.fastcap.com/product/kaizen-spinner
Yeah I understand why you came up with these tools cause I don't think they were available 3y ago and it's either a mess or a watchmaker work to get a clean flat layer, about one hour per cutout with a scalpel.
fantastic! i have sent this on to our 5s improvement team!
How do you cut a perfect circle? 2.5 in diameter?
@stonaciousstone4171 For a perfect circle cut we would recommend using a hole saw.
The hot knife is a little small for flattening. Perhaps you could develop a kit of flat heated shapes - from small to large, that when heated and applied, would be able to flatten a greater 'surface area'. The shapes (small to large) could be square, rectangular, circular, ellipse, triangular - whatever one wants, and could be heated like the knife; or through the use a heat gun; or one heating element could plug into all the different flattening tools etc etc. The hot knife could be used to smooth any remaining edges. Of course, 10% profit to me for these ideas will apply... LOL :) Thank you.
Please please please make a version 2.0 spinner that has a convex surface to match convex tool surfaces!!!!
Can I see a quick video of what you mean and how that would work? Seems like if it’s convex it just wouldn’t cut, and concave it would walk everywhere with no control? But maybe I’m missing the idea. lukas@fastcap.com
@@FastCapLLC I don’t understand the concept to the question either. I’m assuming they’re looking for a more snug fitting cavity which in my opinion wouldn’t necessarily improve the actual purpose of the cavity, which is decluttering, in keeping tools organized by having a designated placement.
Perhaps carving the inside edges to snug fit prevents tilting, but if people are really that anal, go purchase ball tip carving burrs which comes in a large variety of sizes & go at it!
I think what he is talking about is a tool that would help a hole with a rounded bottom for cylindrical things like camera lenses. I've been trying to figure out how to do that. One way is to make molds and use two part foam. I watched a video on that and for sure that is more work than I'm up for. Right now I think I am going to try a stepped series of holes and call it good enough but a nice fitting hole would look neater and would provide some better shock resistance. Thanks for the video. It was helpful for me.
@@davefoc That’s what I assumed, which is why I’m suggesting ball or round tipped burrs for rotary tools. There’s a variety of sizes ranging upwards from 1/8” diameter shafts. It’s just a matter of selecting your rotary tool of choice, either a hand tool like Dremel or Foredom, to a larger type, like palm routers.
Would fastcap be willing to sell the stl file?
First thought they look like valves
Yep, that's what I thought to use.
What bit holder is that on the impact driver?
@Birdnerd Its our PowerMag for Screw Gun. Here is a link to our site to find out more info: www.fastcap.com/product/powermags
@@FastCapLLC Awesome, thanks! You guys might want to tag that item with "bit holder"... I was searching your site and couldn't find it. Thanks for the link ;)
@Birdnerd We sent this off to our crew and they made the adjustment. Thanks for the feedback!
So cool!
It would be great ithere was a tool where you could limit the depth of cut.
You can adjust the length of the blade sticking out of your knife.
@@Madkiwient I know right?! Lmao
Wheres Paul!
No Depth-Stop?
What would that look like?
@@FastCapLLC I was expecting something on the lines of an "anvil" (is that the correct term?) of a jigsaw or the (transparent) base-plate of a palm-router. This would keep the tool-tip perpendicular to the foam, and would prevent the user from cutting too deep.
@@AdityaMehendale I’ll think about the depth stop. But worry it will only help 1/4 of the time and more than double the cost. ~Lukas
@@FastCapLLC Agreed. Only worthwhile if the current incarnation seems too difficult to use due to the lack of this feature.
Had to check the date 'cuz it sure sounded like an April's fool.
Americans have such a different understanding of “perfect” from Germans 😂
and Germans from Japanese x)