"Store-bought" off the rack stays do not fit many of us! Tall or short waisted folks have a very hard time finding stays that fit. I am petite, 5' 1". I must shorten modern skirt patterns at the waist to hip measurement by 2". The bust to waist measuremenunbearable. as well, and additional shortening between shoulder and bust point. All corsets that are not custom made (too expensive) cut me in the armpits, making them Very uncomfortable. If l don't make them myself, stays are unwearable.
@@spiritussancto What I did was just cut out the pieces, tape them together with packing tape, and more hold it firmly to me to check - the tape doesn't want to hold super well so I didn't try to tape the front together or anything to check more thoroughly. You do definitely need to bend the cardboard so it's less flat and more curved. And I don't know how well it would work well for a curvier corset as opposed to stays, so I'd also consider that. I was more worried about making sure the bust and waist measurements would work (when I tried this I was altering a pattern I'd used before so I knew the length was fine), but presumably it would help with length, too. If you're also needing to check the length maybe try it without the tabs so you can see where it's hitting on your waist more clearly? I hope that helps! I don't really know how else to explain what I did and I feel like that's not much clearer. :/
@@darklymoonlit I've seen this referred to a couple times and seems like a great idea, but I can't find any reference to the sort of cardboard used. Did you use just a normal corrugated cardboard from a box, or did you use like a heavy weight poster board? how tight were you able to pull it to check the laced fit? I appreciate your reply, thanks for the info!
@@LadyPressingham I used corrugated cardboard but it does *not* want to stay taped together. A heavy posterboard might do better with being taped and I imagine wouldn't require nearly as much manipulation, but I haven't ever tried it. Once I taped mine very thoroughly I was able to pull it tight enough to get a pretty good idea of fit, but this is definitely a cheat-y way to do a mock-up. If you're wanting to make a Victorian style corset I'd say using cardboard isn't anywhere near precise enough. For a new pattern I'd personally recommend starting with a cardboard mock-up to check for any glaring fit issues and then doing a fabric one (for the pair I'm working on now that was a new pattern for me I did a mock-up out of a thick twill without boning and that worked really well, too, and honestly didn't take much longer) or at least modifying the cardboard one for a second fitting unless it was perfect from the start. It's been years since I did my cardboard mock-up so I don't remember everything, sadly. I hope what I can remember helps!
Totally couldn't stop watching, i was so excited because you guys were so excited! Bought both simplicity patterns because I am a historical clothing nerd. #ObsessedWithAmericanDuchess
When she is recommending pliers to pull the needle through leather, use a haemostat instead. The benefit of using a haemostat is that they clamp on to the needle so you don’t have to worry about dropping the needle end when you are pulling the needle through the leather. Haemostats look like scissors with ridged tweezers instead of blades and they stay closed until you release them with a particular moment of the loop handles. Also the size of the point is similar to needle nose pliers, so you don’t have to get as much of the needle through your project before the haemostat can get a good grip on the needle.
Not necessarily about stays but I was wondering this in general. Would you mind doing a video just showing the difference between a higher class woman and how she would dress and get dressed compared to a lower class woman? Obviously fabrics and colors would be a major thing but anything else?
EverythingOnIce22 This video th-cam.com/video/UpnwWP3fOSA/w-d-xo.html was done to show how a higher class lady was dressed, and the same costuming company then produced this video th-cam.com/video/nUmO7rBMdoU/w-d-xo.html to show a lower class woman getting dressed. Hope this is useful!
Re: maternity stays - When Noelle (Costuming Drama) vlogged her epic trek through Europe last year, they went through a museum that had several examples of stays and corsets. One very good item was a set of maternity stays that had the side lacing you spoke about.
Here's a thing I've learned about boning in stays and corsets. The steel boning is very common in modern corsets and fashion corsets that are meant for tight lacing because they are stronger than plastic and can bend to more extreme shapes. Fot stays and other garments that are supposed to support your body and not modify it, baline substitutes that are made of plastic are more commonly used and probably more comfortable.
I've not made stays or costs but I've repaired my daughters of shaping corse ts with the spiral steel boning, they broke really early and I was repairing them a lot. My daughter and I no longer wear modern underwrite brass, suffered took much pain.we've been wearing the sportier soft bra shape which we both like but can be quite sweaty. I was thinking of making an item of clothing that held my boss without our all the constriction. Like the under bless with tucks under the boss. I'm new to historical garments but have always been drawn to the fashions through history, especially the time of Robin hood. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have fibromyalgia and so a lot of twisting and tugging can get painful and making.lol xx
@@bernadetteburgoyne8238 th-cam.com/channels/SHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q.html is best for helping with that. I was actually surprised to not see her in your channels. She is one of the more... Specialized... In the historical costuming world, and good friend of both of these.
@@bernadetteburgoyne8238 I second the recommendation of Bernadette Banner's channel but you should totally check out SnappyDragon's run through of the Simplicity 8162 stays as well. She also has fibromyalgia so you may find some insight in her process.
I started sewing 10 months ago and I have made over 25 vintage garments for myself. I decided to wear pre Civil War Era garments to visit a Pre Civil War Living Museum in Virginia. I used your Simplicity Shift pattern which was an easy sew for me and I added bias tape at the square neckline because the neckline was not secure for me. Also, your Simplicity pattern had a simple design instead of a lot of ruffles. Now, I have join the RSV(Regency Society) which I need 18th Century Stays which I am having a friend in England to make them for me, because it is a very experience Dressmaker. She also is making my 19th Century Corset which will be reversible which is awesome idea. Great video and keep up the great work
3 years out from production, im viewing this video. Thank you for this internally constructive, eternally informative,positive and necessary content. I am grateful that you are willing to share your knowledge. And glorious personalities. Thanks so much.
I'm in the middle of making my 1st stays and this was so helpful! I am using the Butterick B4254 (pattern A), and I've already made a ton of mistakes but now that its finally coming together I understand much more of what you're saying ! I was just about to do the binding when I watched this and you said to use leather - I have tons of leather ! It's what I started working with before getting into historical clothing so I am not scared to use leather lol Glover needles don't scare me either - if you get a small size it won't do much damage to the leather. Love you girls ! Thankyou so much for your work !! ⚘🧵
Watching you guys while wrestling with a decision about how to make some Elizabethan bodies...lol! I can't believe that corset pattern maker!! You guys are WONDERFUL!! THANK YOU!!!
Woohoo cable ties! About to get started on the RedThreaded and totally going that way. I love that they're washable. The McCord pair of stays is an excellent reference. Thanks!
Um, yay! I was struggling through my first set of stays and am SOOOOOO glad I ran across this video. Holy Toledo, I am going back to grab this pattern and give this one a go, with your expert amazing help! (also... glad I randomly ordered a misc. box of leather cut offs. I'm sure there will be something there to use as binding). I am so excited now! Also.... Mansfield in Green... They are everything and I am not sure if I can hold out til the end of the month to order. Because I need them on an elemental level.
I gave in and got the pattern for this. I'm going to add front lacing also. I'm also going to angle the boning in more and make it less straight. I am sick, and need abdominal support, and the doctors gave me an ugly back brace that really won't support me as well as stays will. So I'm going to start wearing stays instead for medical reasons. I'm going to use upcycled denim for my heavy layers. I have 15oz denim fabric as well, im debating pretty fabric for the outside or using denim so they match everything. Since I'm planning on daily wear and use of them. So 2 layers of upcycled denim material inside, a cotton lining (or linen if I can find some cheap), and either cotton twill or 15oz denim as my fashion fabric. I will use zip ties, and no metal grommets so they are totally washable as well. I really want to make a kirtle with a gored skirt out of that 15oz denim. I am moving up north and need warm clothing. I'm from the south and don't have any warm stuff. I want to line the kirtle with flannel.
Thank you! This was so helpful. With the stays/bodies and earlier period laced garments I've made in the past, I've always had a problem with my breasts gradually sagging down inside them over the course of the day as I move and breathe because my breasts are large but squishy and droopy. I've often wondered about adding under-bust padding to help support them and stop the slipping but didn't think that was a "proper" solution - I am now inspired to experiment with that on a new set of stays.
Thank you really great info. I would enjoy it if you could Model or show pics so we could see the "differences" between Jumps, stays, and corsets. Now that would be GREAT. Thanks again ladies God Bless you and yours
I was going to suggest for new stay makers or ladies who have adjustments to make like large bust. I am a 38/H euro bra size. I really liked the JP Ryan half boned back lacing pattern, can be fully boned, i purchased after someone said it had lots of adjustment info... and it does... its full of adjustment info. Large bust, small bust, large or small waist, narrow back, etc. The info in the instruction packet can be applied to so many other styles. I am going to do a video on it soon.
In addition to putting your stays in the sun for "cleaning," I find that leaving a garment outside in the freezing weather is super helpful for freshening a garment that's gotten stale, or for getting a smell (like cigarette smoke or someone's perfume or body odor, of course). I'll lay something over a chair overnight, or hang it on the clothesline if I'm afraid it will blow away.
Hello ladies! I am a starting historical costumer but also i was curious do you have any pointers for someone who has a curver and fuller figure with historical patterns such as stays?
I am curious about the custom corset generator you mentioned in your video. Does it have a website? I would be interested to make a set of Tudor/Elizabethan bodies for a set of Tudor clothes that I am planning to make. Thank you.
I'm making my first pair of stays. A little earlier (late 1500 to early 1600s pair of bodies). This video is so helpful! The directions are long but read like a foreign language to me (even though I've been sewing for years).
Curious about what the community thinks about using an Edwardian corset with 1950s dresses. Nothing to do with regency stays but I’m curious about whether it provides a better silhouette though perhaps not necessarily a period one. See Carolina Z’s rant about corsetry in film.
I forgot to ask how you create the front opening on the stays from the Simplicity pattern? I'm wanting to make mine like Lauren made hers (lacing both front and back), but I'm not sure how to go about it. Thank you.
You literally make a line down the center front and just add it in. Not a whole lot to explain. Take the center line, do boning, eyelets, then boning again.
Hello ladies! Loved the video! I was wondering how difficult it would be to alter the 8579 pattern to front lacing? Also I’m glad you explained things about the pattern like lining and binding. Would a drawstring neckline be accurate to do for the shift if it didn’t fit quite right. Thanks!
Oh my. My ancestors had exactly the same issue I have with their undergarments poking and stabbing at them. I find that charming. Advice I got off the interwebs had me stick down and sew in Moleskin bandage cut to fit over the offending bit of steel coming loose - and it really works - exactly the same ye olden ladies did. So cool!
I am watching this in 2020. Is it possible to still get this pattern?? So awesome you mention Colonial Williamsburg. I visited there and it was amazing.
When talking about handsewn eyelets, you said something about putting the "leather wrap" in the eyelet. Please explain what that means. I could find no reference anywhere explaining that. Thank you!!
I would imagine that a couple of horizontal “sausage” shaped pads at underbust level (one each side) would work well to support the fuller figure. Im used to repairing saddlery, and you can get saddlers needles which will go through thin leather beautifully. I note you suggested cleaning with vodka; here in the UK we can buy surgical spirit (bottled) much cheaper than even the cheapest vodka! Is this not available in the USA?
Thank you so much for this clarification video! Also, I'm wondering how they got the name "stays" lol. I'm picturing a woman hundreds of years ago pushing her busom up and yelling "STAY!" at them 😁
@@AmericanDuchess1 that's pretty interesting, bodies. Yup, makes sense. Stays are kinda like dress forms as the function as the "body" that the rest of the gown is draped on, just like a dress form. And I can imagine if you stuff stays they can function as an actual bodice form, so yeah, that definitely makes perfect sense!
Abby briefly mentioned wrapping the eyelets with leather. I've seen a few photographs of originals with this wrapping, but can't seem to get my mind around how to do it properly. Is it literally just wrapped from one eyelet to the next, around the bone? Or is it stitched down somewhere? Any suggestions would be very, very, VERY much appreciated!
Yup, you got it - you stitch it on the inside at the bottom (or top), then just wrap it through the eyelet, around, the bone, and to the next eyelet, all the way down, then stitch it to the inside again.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I’m sorry. I am totally not understanding how this is done. I used metal grommets once and they had rough edges they tore up the laces and made it impossible to lace. I’d like to have another way that will hold up. Can you explain more thoroughly or maybe attach a picture?
I really have to set up notifications for your fb livestreams! I'm just about to go to my state library for delicious reference books, now I've got something to listen to on the way!
I thought I heard something about binding grommets in leather. How does one do that? I've seen some top-notch costumers weave ribbon or something between the grommets to prevent them from tearing to the bone. Is there a resource to show how to do that?
Linen, wool, silk, cotton are historically accurate materials for stays - we recommend at least one layer be a good heavy linen, if not two layers of linen with the thinner materials as a decorative covering. Accurate boning materials are reed, bents (wooden strips), and baleen. Obviously we don't use real baleen today but there is a synthetic (plastic) whalebone substitute that mimics the properties of it. Steel is not a historically accurate boning materials for stays in the 18th century.
I'm having this problem now. They feel way to high on the armpit especially right side and the boning is uncomfortable. I also have scoliosis...I'm thinking I may have to redo the entire project.
I recently lost my pattern. I've been working on my stays more off than on for six months and the moment I pick it back up to finish the pattern disappears. So thank you for this video. It definitely helped guide me for the strap addition. I bound and lined by instinct but forgot how the straps figured. Also, you know the moment these are finished and worn I'll find that pattern again....
i've recently made stays with reed, i like it but i do not like how long it takes to treat it and even though ive treated it, they still snapped in the back
I made a pair of 16th century stays using half-inch German plastic whalebone a decade ago, and they are still going strong. It really is the only way to fly for a costumer like me, a person with disproportionately hard and large breasts. Not friendly to all my favorite costuming periods! They are so comfortable I don't even do up the shoulder straps most of the time. Although that is probably a perq of having a 20 inch waist/hip differential lol! I have washed these stays in a machine, on gentle, a couple of times and they always come out fine, but she needs to be seasoned again after, that's for sure. German plastic loooooves the heat. If I was a bit braver, I would pull it on wet and let it air-dry.
This is very interesting, I had your book for christmas I am from the uk. You mention brioefly about the grain line for cutting garments. Now I have always done mainly victorina and a lot of disney stuff wiht victorian style bodices and they need victorian style corsets. The last corset I made for around 1870 was a symington original corset pattern, which cost a lot of money. but I noticed on that one, each piece had arrows for grainline fabric position that were different on every piece, some angles to cut on were more sever than others, how on earth that is worked out i do not know. Though looking through hundreds fo stays now or original garments, not modern made. I can only find a handful that have a pattern on, so you can see which way th epiece has been cut by the pattern, but it's still working out the exact angle. Nobody or no pattern for stays I can find really shows which angel eveyr piece should be cut on. Cutting on the bias at 45 degree angle can create porblems and onyl really works well on a dress. mum & i cut my merdia teal dress on the bias, but it does create some slight havoc and plus i'm now affraid to hang it up incase it stretch's out of place over time, so it lies flat in a suitcase. but anyway, if some light and video done of which direction each piece should be cut would be helpful. I am using jean hunnseittes and Norah Waugh books, but I cannot scale up Norah's patterns, it doens't work, so i'm using jean hunisettes as her patterns on the grid always scale up correctely. there is only slight difference between the two pattersn. Great videos lady's. from Tracy :)
I made a pair of your stays a couple months ago and found that I had to size down 3x and remove the gap in the back and it was still too big. It was odd because I had to size up the petticoat pattern. Did Simplicity change the measurements or remove the negative ease when converting the information you gave them? Just curious!
I've always bound my corsets/stays after lining- how do you work your eyelets in a separate lining? Separate eyelets, , or just poke holes and hope for the best?
maybe the lining does not cover the eyelets? Maybe the lining is stitched into place just inside the row of eyelets. I have not made lined stays, but I am just guessing. Or you could make the lining, pin it into place inside the stays, mark the placement of lining eyelets through the eyelets the stays, then unpin the lining and stitch the eyelets.
I have seen people sew in a facing separate from their floating lining, bind the eyelets into the facing, then sew the replacable lining in after that.
Hi warrior! Stays should still work well. At the beginning of the video they mention padding. You can add a small amount of wool in to help to even the silhouette. Hope that helps!
It’s up to you whether you want to draft an asymmetrical pattern or just pad out the smaller side. Since it’s just the breast and nothing skeletal I’d go with padding.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video! I have had problems in the past with boning twisting inthe channels, what would be causing that to happen? Thanks!
My JoAnns doesn’t carry coutil. I wasn’t paying attention and bought heavy interfacing and linen for lining. Will that work? Any suggestions. Can I use the combination of the 2 of what I bought for the interlining?
This was such a good video. I learned a lot of new things about Stays and Corsets. I have been planning to make a couple Corsets this year; definitely will be picking up the patterns too. Nice job, ladies!
Hey ladies! You mentioned a video you published demonstrating how to lengthen the stays pattern for longer torsos. I'm having trouble finding it. Can you point me in that direction? Thanks for all these great videos! I'm thoroughly addicted to stay making now!
The yellow stays in the thumbnail are gorgeous! Do you have a video on those? Also, are they half boned? Love y’all’s work 😭 been diving deep into your videos!
Hi! Those stays belong to the lovely Maggie so we don't have a video on them specifically. I believe they're half-boned, but I'll have to check with Maggie
Hello, gals. Delightful video! I'm making American Revolution period costumes for my 9-year-old daughter and myself--for nerdy homeschool purposes-- and I'm wondering if I should make stays for her. (I vaguely remember Felicity wearing stays from my childhood reading...) Do you have suggestions for a modified girl's version? Should I use the same pattern and just make it in her size? She's not old enough to need any support, I was just interested in getting a little taste of historical accuracy. Or do you think she'd just be too uncomfortable to enjoy wearing the dress with stays? I'd love your opinion!
Hi! Historically, young girls did wear stays. They were very simple with none of the shaping of a woman's pair of stays, and weren't as heavily boned. Stiff materials, maybe a bit of boning. I don't know if she's like wearing them, though!
Whats the corset in ur thumbnail photo???? I am in love with it. Is it the same style as pattern but laced only in back with the boneing done differently and is it all boneing or is there also cording??
Also, how do you prevent the bones from bending out of shape when sitting down in these. Is it preventable at all or does it come down to steaming/pressing them straight again?
baleen molded to the body over time. It had some elasticity, similar to plastic, so it does rebound a bit, but you actually WANT the boning to mold to the body.
@@AmericanDuchess1 My experience with fully plastic boned stays/corsets is that they kink at waist height when sitting down too much and after that they are extremely uncomfortable to wear. I am afraid the same would happen if I were only to use zip ties.
What are "really, really, really sharp good hand needles, not the cheap ones from JoAnn's, the good stuff"? The only time I've seen people talk about needles on the TH-cam videos have said that the needles don't really matter. I've looked at different needles for sale on Amazon, but I can't tell what are the best ones. Thank you!
If you go on wawak.com you can look at hand needles yhere - i use bohin brand and theyre fantastic. Theyre extremely sharp, the eye is consistently the same shape and size on every needle, and theyre very sturdy in the hand. Ive ised the Dritz needles in the past and they tend to have really irregular eye shapes, they feel really flimsy, and they have a tendency to act like they arent sharp at all. You can also buy bohin from burnley and trowbridge but idk if theyre currently in stock thanks to covid
Thank you for this Video! I was not sure if I should use steel in my stays, because I wanted them to be very stiff at the front. Like the early 18th stays. But now I´m considering to use zip ties instead. Or can I possibly combine steel and zip ties? Steel at the front, bust aeria and the other parts with just zip ties? I´m not sure.
I have tried many different patterns but I can't find one that I can wear without serious pain. I am 75 and had open heart surgery 23 years ago. Do you have any ideas?
I personally adore John James needles. They are really nice all of them and come in a large variety of types and sizes. I usually like the size 10 sharps for handsewing cottons and linens. I have not sewed leather with them.
When you suggest using buttonhole twist in your machine to sew the channels, do you use buttonhole twist in the bobbin, too? Or just in the top spool, and use regular-weight thread in the bobbin? Thanks much.
This is great. I'm preparing to make my first pair of stays. I have the Simplicity 8579 and Butterick 4254 and I was wondering if either or both of those have ease or if the measurements on the package are accurate? I recently made a Victorian corset from a mainstream pattern and I had to go a couple of sizes smaller and they were still too big. Why even DO that with something that is supposed to fit snugly ?? I also really want it to lace in the front. Can the Simplicity pattern be altered to do that or should I stick with the Butterick one?
Hi! As far as we know, the Simplicity pattern should not have ease BUT it is their standard to add it in. We highly recommend making a cardboard mockup and then marking and removing any ease that way, before cutting into your fabric. Yes, you can absolutely make the stays front lacing. All you have to do is make the two front pieces separate instead of sewn together and add eyelets.
roughly how long do stays take to make? I would love to make a pair to go with another project but I have a deadline to stick to and I need to know if it's realistic in the time I have
I used the Custom Corset Pattern Generator. I am curious if it accounts for tabs or if I just did something wrong? The arms are great but the hip area cuts in. How do I fix this issue? I also don't understand the angled back. Should it be straight? Thanks for all your help.
I know this video is for the stays but I have a question about the panniers. I super new to sewing and this style of wears. In the pattern it states get 1/2 in plastic boning. But all I find is 1/4 in plastic boning in 1/2in fabric. Is that what they mean? Also will the plastic hold or collapse under heavier dresses as people are telling me? Should I double the boning to help this? Lol help I don’t know what I’m doing lol
I am making my first stays and I am trying to figure out to attach the loops, hooks, and twill tape for changing my butterick pattern 4254 to have the adjustable straps instead of the ones it comes with. All I've been able to find so far is just pictures of ones people have done.
I don't remember if it was this video or one of the other book preview videos (kinda watched several in rapid succession and have lost track), but y'all mentioned having quality hand-sewing needles not like what they have at Jo-Ann. What needles would you recommend, and where could they be purchased?
Abby is the one who is (really) picky with her needles - She's used Colonial, John James, Clover, and Roxanne needles. You can buy a wide variety of types on wawak - www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Hand/ (Abby's favorite type & size are Sharps 9,10 & 11.) 😊
I am confused. You recommend Red Threaded but I just checked their website and they have steel bones. You just said in your livestream to never use steel bones. Which is it?
Redthreaded also offers most of their corsets with synthetic (plastic) whalebone. For fully-boned stays I recommend not using steel because it makes the stays very heavy.
But the photo of the video was different! 😭😭 Anyway, can I have all this in a writing page? Because I couldn't follow all of this. I must see it, read it with calm, translating...
I’m confused about the pattern piece attachment for the piece that goes upward from armpit curve…a drawing on your blog shows it as being the back side piece, instead of as front side piece as is illustrated in the simplicity pattern with Abby modeling on front
Maybe I'm just dense or I missed where you said... Lauren, what pattern did you use to make the stays you are wearing? Is it one of the two Simplicity patterns? I'm starting an 18th C wardrobe soon, so have been doing lots of research. Also, when a stays pattern sizing lists bust, under bust, hips, and waist measurements, what do I need to focus size-wise when determining size to buy?
What does the historical record show about stays for younger girls, under 16 or 18? I know they were worn, but were they boned or did they wear basically jumps?
not any in particular, just the really really long heavy duty ones for the extra strong and long parts like the center front and the center back edges. I've found that if your stays are half-boned, you can use the big ones throughout because they're very strong. If you are going fully-boned, I like to use the narrow 1/4" ties throughout and the big wide strong ones just on the front and back.
I'm currently working on my first pair of stays and already considered these thick shoulder straps to potentially be a little problematic. I might use the cotton twill tape that I ordered to replace them and bind my taps with something else :-D "Boobular" is a great word, by the way. I love it :'D (Yes, me too, I'm a child that can't pronounce the word "breasts" without feeling majorly embarassed...)
If you were to use the Elizabethan Corset pattern generator, how would you recommend putting in the side seams? Is there a blog post or video you could recommend for how to use that basic pattern to make 18th century stays?
I have not made a video for using the custom corset pattern generator, but I can recommend cross referencing the patterns and especially the "how to draft" part in the back of Patterns of Fashion 5
I've been thinking of making a pair of stays to go with the Italian gown in the Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. Which pattern would you suggest or would I be able to adapt the Simplicity 8579 pattern to the latter part of the 18th century?
I believe Burnley & Trowbridge has leather strips. You can also purchase leather from places like Tandy Leather and cut it into strips. You just want very thin, stretchy leather.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I'm looking at buying soft leather strips on Etsy, but I'm not sure how much to buy. Do you recommend ½" wide or 1"? And how much do you think I need for a pattern size 17ish? Simplicity 8162 says to buy 2 packages of bias tape, at 3 yards each. Do I need to buy 6 yards of leather strips or can I economize here? BTW, I've watched this video a few times and purchased your patterns and books. I'm just gathering supplies as I get up the guts to try this. The gown is after, and I already have the fabric! You two are amazing.
Me: Why would anyone go theough the hassle of making their own stays?
Quarantine: Allow me to introduce myself.
I did exactly that I've almost finished making my stays
lol! true, though!
That was what I was going to do, but as a larger individual who does not know to draft patterns i said eff it
"Store-bought" off the rack stays do not fit many of us! Tall or short waisted folks have a very hard time finding stays that fit. I am petite, 5' 1". I must shorten modern skirt patterns at the waist to hip measurement by 2". The bust to waist measuremenunbearable. as well, and additional shortening between shoulder and bust point. All corsets that are not custom made (too expensive) cut me in the armpits, making them Very uncomfortable. If l don't make them myself, stays are unwearable.
I just have to say that I tried the cardboard mock up and it is genius. My life has been changed - begone, fit issues!
They only slightly touched on that. Can you elaborate? I have so many issues with fitting
@@spiritussancto What I did was just cut out the pieces, tape them together with packing tape, and more hold it firmly to me to check - the tape doesn't want to hold super well so I didn't try to tape the front together or anything to check more thoroughly. You do definitely need to bend the cardboard so it's less flat and more curved. And I don't know how well it would work well for a curvier corset as opposed to stays, so I'd also consider that.
I was more worried about making sure the bust and waist measurements would work (when I tried this I was altering a pattern I'd used before so I knew the length was fine), but presumably it would help with length, too. If you're also needing to check the length maybe try it without the tabs so you can see where it's hitting on your waist more clearly?
I hope that helps! I don't really know how else to explain what I did and I feel like that's not much clearer. :/
They also mentioned taping the boning to the fabric of the mock-up. I think I just ran out of excuses not to make my stays! LOL
@@darklymoonlit I've seen this referred to a couple times and seems like a great idea, but I can't find any reference to the sort of cardboard used. Did you use just a normal corrugated cardboard from a box, or did you use like a heavy weight poster board? how tight were you able to pull it to check the laced fit? I appreciate your reply, thanks for the info!
@@LadyPressingham I used corrugated cardboard but it does *not* want to stay taped together. A heavy posterboard might do better with being taped and I imagine wouldn't require nearly as much manipulation, but I haven't ever tried it. Once I taped mine very thoroughly I was able to pull it tight enough to get a pretty good idea of fit, but this is definitely a cheat-y way to do a mock-up. If you're wanting to make a Victorian style corset I'd say using cardboard isn't anywhere near precise enough.
For a new pattern I'd personally recommend starting with a cardboard mock-up to check for any glaring fit issues and then doing a fabric one (for the pair I'm working on now that was a new pattern for me I did a mock-up out of a thick twill without boning and that worked really well, too, and honestly didn't take much longer) or at least modifying the cardboard one for a second fitting unless it was perfect from the start.
It's been years since I did my cardboard mock-up so I don't remember everything, sadly. I hope what I can remember helps!
Abby and Lauren have such good chemistry on their live streams - I always learn more when the hosts feel like they're enjoying teaching their audience
aw thanks!
Totally couldn't stop watching, i was so excited because you guys were so excited! Bought both simplicity patterns because I am a historical clothing nerd. #ObsessedWithAmericanDuchess
When she is recommending pliers to pull the needle through leather, use a haemostat instead. The benefit of using a haemostat is that they clamp on to the needle so you don’t have to worry about dropping the needle end when you are pulling the needle through the leather. Haemostats look like scissors with ridged tweezers instead of blades and they stay closed until you release them with a particular moment of the loop handles. Also the size of the point is similar to needle nose pliers, so you don’t have to get as much of the needle through your project before the haemostat can get a good grip on the needle.
good idea!
Not necessarily about stays but I was wondering this in general. Would you mind doing a video just showing the difference between a higher class woman and how she would dress and get dressed compared to a lower class woman? Obviously fabrics and colors would be a major thing but anything else?
EverythingOnIce22 This video th-cam.com/video/UpnwWP3fOSA/w-d-xo.html was done to show how a higher class lady was dressed, and the same costuming company then produced this video th-cam.com/video/nUmO7rBMdoU/w-d-xo.html to show a lower class woman getting dressed. Hope this is useful!
Maybe! We have the clothing for both, we just need to find the time! :)
Re: maternity stays - When Noelle (Costuming Drama) vlogged her epic trek through Europe last year, they went through a museum that had several examples of stays and corsets. One very good item was a set of maternity stays that had the side lacing you spoke about.
I'm making a pair of maternity stays right now! And I am putting out a video in the next few months!
Enchanted Rose Costumes I was just about to comment about your maternity project!!! 😂😂😂❤️❤️❤️❤️
*excitedly clapping* Maternity stays?!
So would a woman enter her confinement when she was too big for stays? Bed and night gowns for days!
Here's a thing I've learned about boning in stays and corsets. The steel boning is very common in modern corsets and fashion corsets that are meant for tight lacing because they are stronger than plastic and can bend to more extreme shapes. Fot stays and other garments that are supposed to support your body and not modify it, baline substitutes that are made of plastic are more commonly used and probably more comfortable.
yup, we agree with this
I've not made stays or costs but I've repaired my daughters of shaping corse ts with the spiral steel boning, they broke really early and I was repairing them a lot. My daughter and I no longer wear modern underwrite brass, suffered took much pain.we've been wearing the sportier soft bra shape which we both like but can be quite sweaty. I was thinking of making an item of clothing that held my boss without our all the constriction. Like the under bless with tucks under the boss. I'm new to historical garments but have always been drawn to the fashions through history, especially the time of Robin hood. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have fibromyalgia and so a lot of twisting and tugging can get painful and making.lol xx
@@bernadetteburgoyne8238 th-cam.com/channels/SHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q.html is best for helping with that. I was actually surprised to not see her in your channels. She is one of the more... Specialized... In the historical costuming world, and good friend of both of these.
@@bernadetteburgoyne8238 I second the recommendation of Bernadette Banner's channel but you should totally check out SnappyDragon's run through of the Simplicity 8162 stays as well. She also has fibromyalgia so you may find some insight in her process.
I started sewing 10 months ago and I have made over 25 vintage garments for myself. I decided to wear pre Civil War Era garments to visit a Pre Civil War Living Museum in Virginia. I used your Simplicity Shift pattern which was an easy sew for me and I added bias tape at the square neckline because the neckline was not secure for me. Also, your Simplicity pattern had a simple design instead of a lot of ruffles. Now, I have join the RSV(Regency Society) which I need 18th Century Stays which I am having a friend in England to make them for me, because it is a very experience Dressmaker. She also is making my 19th Century Corset which will be reversible which is awesome idea. Great video and keep up the great work
3 years out from production, im viewing this video.
Thank you for this internally constructive, eternally informative,positive and necessary content. I am grateful that you are willing to share your knowledge. And glorious personalities.
Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
This is super important for anyone in need of making their own corset!
“Unless you’re Redthreaded and have magical powers...” hahahaha 🤣😂🤣😂 DEAD.
I'm in the middle of making my 1st stays and this was so helpful! I am using the Butterick B4254 (pattern A), and I've already made a ton of mistakes but now that its finally coming together I understand much more of what you're saying ! I was just about to do the binding when I watched this and you said to use leather - I have tons of leather ! It's what I started working with before getting into historical clothing so I am not scared to use leather lol Glover needles don't scare me either - if you get a small size it won't do much damage to the leather. Love you girls ! Thankyou so much for your work !! ⚘🧵
Watching you guys while wrestling with a decision about how to make some Elizabethan bodies...lol! I can't believe that corset pattern maker!! You guys are WONDERFUL!! THANK YOU!!!
Woohoo cable ties! About to get started on the RedThreaded and totally going that way. I love that they're washable. The McCord pair of stays is an excellent reference. Thanks!
Yay! Thank you! Glad to have helped!
Abby's energy in the beginning is just so cute and adorable. You can tell they're having a good time.
Um, yay! I was struggling through my first set of stays and am SOOOOOO glad I ran across this video. Holy Toledo, I am going back to grab this pattern and give this one a go, with your expert amazing help! (also... glad I randomly ordered a misc. box of leather cut offs. I'm sure there will be something there to use as binding). I am so excited now!
Also.... Mansfield in Green... They are everything and I am not sure if I can hold out til the end of the month to order. Because I need them on an elemental level.
I gave in and got the pattern for this. I'm going to add front lacing also. I'm also going to angle the boning in more and make it less straight. I am sick, and need abdominal support, and the doctors gave me an ugly back brace that really won't support me as well as stays will. So I'm going to start wearing stays instead for medical reasons. I'm going to use upcycled denim for my heavy layers. I have 15oz denim fabric as well, im debating pretty fabric for the outside or using denim so they match everything. Since I'm planning on daily wear and use of them. So 2 layers of upcycled denim material inside, a cotton lining (or linen if I can find some cheap), and either cotton twill or 15oz denim as my fashion fabric. I will use zip ties, and no metal grommets so they are totally washable as well. I really want to make a kirtle with a gored skirt out of that 15oz denim. I am moving up north and need warm clothing. I'm from the south and don't have any warm stuff. I want to line the kirtle with flannel.
Thank you! This was so helpful. With the stays/bodies and earlier period laced garments I've made in the past, I've always had a problem with my breasts gradually sagging down inside them over the course of the day as I move and breathe because my breasts are large but squishy and droopy. I've often wondered about adding under-bust padding to help support them and stop the slipping but didn't think that was a "proper" solution - I am now inspired to experiment with that on a new set of stays.
yes! the little half-moon, crescent pads under the boobs will help a lot!
Thank you really great info. I would enjoy it if you could Model or show pics so we could see the "differences" between Jumps, stays, and corsets. Now that would be GREAT. Thanks again ladies
God Bless you and yours
Noted!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you, thank you , thank you, and may God bless you😘
I was going to suggest for new stay makers or ladies who have adjustments to make like large bust. I am a 38/H euro bra size. I really liked the JP Ryan half boned back lacing pattern, can be fully boned, i purchased after someone said it had lots of adjustment info... and it does... its full of adjustment info. Large bust, small bust, large or small waist, narrow back, etc. The info in the instruction packet can be applied to so many other styles. I am going to do a video on it soon.
Oh please do! I wear a 28GG so none of the stays bust adjustment info I can find are really that useful.
Have you managed to make that video yet?
I had back surgery last year. This pattern looks perfect for me to relieve back pain. Thank you
it does help with that!
In addition to putting your stays in the sun for "cleaning," I find that leaving a garment outside in the freezing weather is super helpful for freshening a garment that's gotten stale, or for getting a smell (like cigarette smoke or someone's perfume or body odor, of course). I'll lay something over a chair overnight, or hang it on the clothesline if I'm afraid it will blow away.
Coco Q Cockerille I believe it is Ralph Lauren who suggests putting jeans in the freezer instead of washing them, so I think that'd work well
It's antibacterial and much safer than toasting cloths 😉😂
Hello ladies! I am a starting historical costumer but also i was curious do you have any pointers for someone who has a curver and fuller figure with historical patterns such as stays?
I am curious about the custom corset generator you mentioned in your video. Does it have a website? I would be interested to make a set of Tudor/Elizabethan bodies for a set of Tudor clothes that I am planning to make. Thank you.
I think they might have been referencing www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/. Hope that helps!
I'm making my first pair of stays. A little earlier (late 1500 to early 1600s pair of bodies). This video is so helpful! The directions are long but read like a foreign language to me (even though I've been sewing for years).
you can do it!
I got both new patterns today at Joann's they had all Simplicity patterns on sale for .99
Curious about what the community thinks about using an Edwardian corset with 1950s dresses. Nothing to do with regency stays but I’m curious about whether it provides a better silhouette though perhaps not necessarily a period one. See Carolina Z’s rant about corsetry in film.
I forgot to ask how you create the front opening on the stays from the Simplicity pattern? I'm wanting to make mine like Lauren made hers (lacing both front and back), but I'm not sure how to go about it. Thank you.
I had the same question!
You literally make a line down the center front and just add it in. Not a whole lot to explain. Take the center line, do boning, eyelets, then boning again.
Hello ladies! Loved the video! I was wondering how difficult it would be to alter the 8579 pattern to front lacing? Also I’m glad you explained things about the pattern like lining and binding. Would a drawstring neckline be accurate to do for the shift if it didn’t fit quite right. Thanks!
Oh my. My ancestors had exactly the same issue I have with their undergarments poking and stabbing at them. I find that charming. Advice I got off the interwebs had me stick down and sew in Moleskin bandage cut to fit over the offending bit of steel coming loose - and it really works - exactly the same ye olden ladies did. So cool!
Yup! Leather was a common use, I guess that's what moleskin is in place of, too.
I am watching this in 2020. Is it possible to still get this pattern?? So awesome you mention Colonial Williamsburg. I visited there and it was amazing.
Yep! www.american-duchess.com/book/simplicity-pattern-8162-18th-century-underpinnings
When talking about handsewn eyelets, you said something about putting the "leather wrap" in the eyelet. Please explain what that means. I could find no reference anywhere explaining that. Thank you!!
I would imagine that a couple of horizontal “sausage” shaped pads at underbust level (one each side) would work well to support the fuller figure. Im used to repairing saddlery, and you can get saddlers needles which will go through thin leather beautifully. I note you suggested cleaning with vodka; here in the UK we can buy surgical spirit (bottled) much cheaper than even the cheapest vodka! Is this not available in the USA?
Thank you so much for this clarification video! Also, I'm wondering how they got the name "stays" lol. I'm picturing a woman hundreds of years ago pushing her busom up and yelling "STAY!" at them 😁
haha, maybe! that's a good question and one I do not know the answer to. Before "stays" they were called "bodies," which makes slightly more sense...?
@@AmericanDuchess1 that's pretty interesting, bodies. Yup, makes sense. Stays are kinda like dress forms as the function as the "body" that the rest of the gown is draped on, just like a dress form. And I can imagine if you stuff stays they can function as an actual bodice form, so yeah, that definitely makes perfect sense!
Abby briefly mentioned wrapping the eyelets with leather. I've seen a few photographs of originals with this wrapping, but can't seem to get my mind around how to do it properly. Is it literally just wrapped from one eyelet to the next, around the bone? Or is it stitched down somewhere? Any suggestions would be very, very, VERY much appreciated!
Yup, you got it - you stitch it on the inside at the bottom (or top), then just wrap it through the eyelet, around, the bone, and to the next eyelet, all the way down, then stitch it to the inside again.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I’m sorry. I am totally not understanding how this is done. I used metal grommets once and they had rough edges they tore up the laces and made it impossible to lace. I’d like to have another way that will hold up. Can you explain more thoroughly or maybe attach a picture?
I’m looking into men’s corsetry/stays, but compared to women’s staymaking, there’s kinda less info. Do you have any good starting points/books?
I really have to set up notifications for your fb livestreams! I'm just about to go to my state library for delicious reference books, now I've got something to listen to on the way!
I thought I heard something about binding grommets in leather. How does one do that? I've seen some top-notch costumers weave ribbon or something between the grommets to prevent them from tearing to the bone. Is there a resource to show how to do that?
Great viewing, thank you from the UK
thanks for watching!
What are historically accurate materials for all the components? And what are suitable cost efficent replacements?
Linen, wool, silk, cotton are historically accurate materials for stays - we recommend at least one layer be a good heavy linen, if not two layers of linen with the thinner materials as a decorative covering.
Accurate boning materials are reed, bents (wooden strips), and baleen. Obviously we don't use real baleen today but there is a synthetic (plastic) whalebone substitute that mimics the properties of it. Steel is not a historically accurate boning materials for stays in the 18th century.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thanks!
Question: how high up into the arm pit should the stays fit? Should it be where the hand can cup them or should they be lower?
I'm having this problem now. They feel way to high on the armpit especially right side and the boning is uncomfortable. I also have scoliosis...I'm thinking I may have to redo the entire project.
I recently lost my pattern. I've been working on my stays more off than on for six months and the moment I pick it back up to finish the pattern disappears. So thank you for this video. It definitely helped guide me for the strap addition. I bound and lined by instinct but forgot how the straps figured. Also, you know the moment these are finished and worn I'll find that pattern again....
that's always how it goes!
i've recently made stays with reed, i like it but i do not like how long it takes to treat it and even though ive treated it, they still snapped in the back
I made a pair of 16th century stays using half-inch German plastic whalebone a decade ago, and they are still going strong. It really is the only way to fly for a costumer like me, a person with disproportionately hard and large breasts. Not friendly to all my favorite costuming periods! They are so comfortable I don't even do up the shoulder straps most of the time. Although that is probably a perq of having a 20 inch waist/hip differential lol! I have washed these stays in a machine, on gentle, a couple of times and they always come out fine, but she needs to be seasoned again after, that's for sure. German plastic loooooves the heat. If I was a bit braver, I would pull it on wet and let it air-dry.
This is very interesting, I had your book for christmas I am from the uk. You mention brioefly about the grain line for cutting garments. Now I have always done mainly victorina and a lot of disney stuff wiht victorian style bodices and they need victorian style corsets. The last corset I made for around 1870 was a symington original corset pattern, which cost a lot of money. but I noticed on that one, each piece had arrows for grainline fabric position that were different on every piece, some angles to cut on were more sever than others, how on earth that is worked out i do not know. Though looking through hundreds fo stays now or original garments, not modern made. I can only find a handful that have a pattern on, so you can see which way th epiece has been cut by the pattern, but it's still working out the exact angle. Nobody or no pattern for stays I can find really shows which angel eveyr piece should be cut on. Cutting on the bias at 45 degree angle can create porblems and onyl really works well on a dress. mum & i cut my merdia teal dress on the bias, but it does create some slight havoc and plus i'm now affraid to hang it up incase it stretch's out of place over time, so it lies flat in a suitcase. but anyway, if some light and video done of which direction each piece should be cut would be helpful. I am using jean hunnseittes and Norah Waugh books, but I cannot scale up Norah's patterns, it doens't work, so i'm using jean hunisettes as her patterns on the grid always scale up correctely. there is only slight difference between the two pattersn. Great videos lady's. from Tracy :)
I made a pair of your stays a couple months ago and found that I had to size down 3x and remove the gap in the back and it was still too big. It was odd because I had to size up the petticoat pattern. Did Simplicity change the measurements or remove the negative ease when converting the information you gave them? Just curious!
Quite possibly - we have no control over what simplicity does once we send the master pattern in.
Bernadette Banner made some feather boning - very interesting episode
I'll check that out! I've always found feather quill boning extremely interesting
Where did you get that fabric for your corset
I've always bound my corsets/stays after lining- how do you work your eyelets in a separate lining? Separate eyelets, , or just poke holes and hope for the best?
maybe the lining does not cover the eyelets? Maybe the lining is stitched into place just inside the row of eyelets. I have not made lined stays, but I am just guessing. Or you could make the lining, pin it into place inside the stays, mark the placement of lining eyelets through the eyelets the stays, then unpin the lining and stitch the eyelets.
I have seen people sew in a facing separate from their floating lining, bind the eyelets into the facing, then sew the replacable lining in after that.
Hi, I’m a breast cancer surviver and I have had 1/3 of my left breast removed. Can I wear stays and if so, how can I adjust it to fit me?
Hi warrior! Stays should still work well. At the beginning of the video they mention padding. You can add a small amount of wool in to help to even the silhouette. Hope that helps!
Add some padding to make up for them! And good job on you for winning and beating that demon!!
It’s up to you whether you want to draft an asymmetrical pattern or just pad out the smaller side. Since it’s just the breast and nothing skeletal I’d go with padding.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video! I have had problems in the past with boning twisting inthe channels, what would be causing that to happen? Thanks!
My JoAnns doesn’t carry coutil. I wasn’t paying attention and bought heavy interfacing and linen for lining. Will that work? Any suggestions. Can I use the combination of the 2 of what I bought for the interlining?
This was such a good video. I learned a lot of new things about Stays and Corsets. I have been planning to make a couple Corsets this year; definitely will be picking up the patterns too. Nice job, ladies!
Glad it was helpful!
Corsets/stays terrify me. Where/how could I get more info on Scottish Royal Ladies 1400 to 1450? I live in a little town in nowhere.
Hey ladies! You mentioned a video you published demonstrating how to lengthen the stays pattern for longer torsos. I'm having trouble finding it. Can you point me in that direction? Thanks for all these great videos! I'm thoroughly addicted to stay making now!
The yellow stays in the thumbnail are gorgeous! Do you have a video on those? Also, are they half boned? Love y’all’s work 😭 been diving deep into your videos!
Hi! Those stays belong to the lovely Maggie so we don't have a video on them specifically. I believe they're half-boned, but I'll have to check with Maggie
I like watching this vid while making stays
i use the Butterick pattern for my stays and i don't really have the problem where they're too high, i never see mine peeking out of my gowns
Hello, gals. Delightful video!
I'm making American Revolution period costumes for my 9-year-old daughter and myself--for nerdy homeschool purposes-- and I'm wondering if I should make stays for her. (I vaguely remember Felicity wearing stays from my childhood reading...) Do you have suggestions for a modified girl's version? Should I use the same pattern and just make it in her size? She's not old enough to need any support, I was just interested in getting a little taste of historical accuracy. Or do you think she'd just be too uncomfortable to enjoy wearing the dress with stays? I'd love your opinion!
Hi! Historically, young girls did wear stays. They were very simple with none of the shaping of a woman's pair of stays, and weren't as heavily boned. Stiff materials, maybe a bit of boning. I don't know if she's like wearing them, though!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you for the reply! I'll have a think on it.
Training stays!
Whats the corset in ur thumbnail photo???? I am in love with it. Is it the same style as pattern but laced only in back with the boneing done differently and is it all boneing or is there also cording??
QUESTION! Stomachers with wooden busk... Is that a completely different time period, or not common among commoners due to mobility reduction?
Also, how do you prevent the bones from bending out of shape when sitting down in these. Is it preventable at all or does it come down to steaming/pressing them straight again?
baleen molded to the body over time. It had some elasticity, similar to plastic, so it does rebound a bit, but you actually WANT the boning to mold to the body.
wooden busks, or even iron busks were a thing at this time, yes. Very rigid, definitely inhibits mobility.
@@AmericanDuchess1 My experience with fully plastic boned stays/corsets is that they kink at waist height when sitting down too much and after that they are extremely uncomfortable to wear. I am afraid the same would happen if I were only to use zip ties.
I like yours way better than the pattern. Do you take orders?
What are "really, really, really sharp good hand needles, not the cheap ones from JoAnn's, the good stuff"? The only time I've seen people talk about needles on the TH-cam videos have said that the needles don't really matter. I've looked at different needles for sale on Amazon, but I can't tell what are the best ones. Thank you!
If you go on wawak.com you can look at hand needles yhere - i use bohin brand and theyre fantastic. Theyre extremely sharp, the eye is consistently the same shape and size on every needle, and theyre very sturdy in the hand. Ive ised the Dritz needles in the past and they tend to have really irregular eye shapes, they feel really flimsy, and they have a tendency to act like they arent sharp at all. You can also buy bohin from burnley and trowbridge but idk if theyre currently in stock thanks to covid
Thank you for this Video! I was not sure if I should use steel in my stays, because I wanted them to be very stiff at the front. Like the early 18th stays. But now I´m considering to use zip ties instead. Or can I possibly combine steel and zip ties? Steel at the front, bust aeria and the other parts with just zip ties? I´m not sure.
MaraDesigns Yes, you can combine the materials :)
Thank you :)
how do u make stays for a plus size person who is larger then a 26 au
I have your pattern now. If I do front lacing should I also do a fold over section on the front?
I have tried many different patterns but I can't find one that I can wear without serious pain. I am 75 and had open heart surgery 23 years ago. Do you have any ideas?
I think in your case a pair of custom made stays would be best
Where online can I find good quality needles for hand sewing? Could you point me in the right direction!? Thank you! :D
I personally adore John James needles. They are really nice all of them and come in a large variety of types and sizes. I usually like the size 10 sharps for handsewing cottons and linens. I have not sewed leather with them.
I'm making Stays from y'alls first outlander pattern I was wondering how much space should I give the eyelets for the zig zag lacing?
Carlee Whitlock I like to put about an inch to 1.5 inches between the eyelets
American Duchess thanks so much! ❤
Y'all are so beautiful!!!!! (also i highkey want stays now lol)
thank you!
Have you guys tried the carbon fibre boning?
They’re pretty similar to the Augusta stays?
no, the Augusta Stays are much better!
Okay good to know. Will using Abby’s strap version be a good addition or the Augusta stays will be okay without that modification?
What exactly was the issue with the bulkier shoulder straps though? I find them very pretty and would love to use them when I get to make my stays ._.
@Mikaia Ray I see, thanks for the answer ^^
When you suggest using buttonhole twist in your machine to sew the channels, do you use buttonhole twist in the bobbin, too? Or just in the top spool, and use regular-weight thread in the bobbin? Thanks much.
I used buttonhole twist in both the upper and the bobbin, and I loosen the tension so the stitch is even
Thank you!
This is great. I'm preparing to make my first pair of stays. I have the Simplicity 8579 and Butterick 4254 and I was wondering if either or both of those have ease or if the measurements on the package are accurate? I recently made a Victorian corset from a mainstream pattern and I had to go a couple of sizes smaller and they were still too big. Why even DO that with something that is supposed to fit snugly ?? I also really want it to lace in the front. Can the Simplicity pattern be altered to do that or should I stick with the Butterick one?
Hi! As far as we know, the Simplicity pattern should not have ease BUT it is their standard to add it in. We highly recommend making a cardboard mockup and then marking and removing any ease that way, before cutting into your fabric.
Yes, you can absolutely make the stays front lacing. All you have to do is make the two front pieces separate instead of sewn together and add eyelets.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you so much! I'm nervous but excited :)
@@AmericanDuchess1 briefly--how do you make a cardboard mock up?
48:18 could you elaborate about the leather you mentioned for eyelets? Sorry im new to stays😅
It's the same thin leather that you use for the binding - just cut into narrower strips. :)
roughly how long do stays take to make? I would love to make a pair to go with another project but I have a deadline to stick to and I need to know if it's realistic in the time I have
I used the Custom Corset Pattern Generator. I am curious if it accounts for tabs or if I just did something wrong? The arms are great but the hip area cuts in. How do I fix this issue? I also don't understand the angled back. Should it be straight? Thanks for all your help.
Hannah Akerson there is another page or bit at the end that tells you how to add tabs to the pattern. Don't worry, it's easy :)
I know this video is for the stays but I have a question about the panniers. I super new to sewing and this style of wears. In the pattern it states get 1/2 in plastic boning. But all I find is 1/4 in plastic boning in 1/2in fabric. Is that what they mean? Also will the plastic hold or collapse under heavier dresses as people are telling me? Should I double the boning to help this? Lol help I don’t know what I’m doing lol
I am making my first stays and I am trying to figure out to attach the loops, hooks, and twill tape for changing my butterick pattern 4254 to have the adjustable straps instead of the ones it comes with. All I've been able to find so far is just pictures of ones people have done.
Hi! Here is a photo in this post that might help - blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/patterns-and-books-for-18th-century.html
What kind of hand needles do you use and where can you purchase them?
If I'm using duck canvas for the inner layer of the stays and linen for the fashion fabric, do I need to prewash either or both of them?
Hi Amy - if you plan to wash your stays at any point, I recommend pre-washing and drying both your fabrics.
I don't remember if it was this video or one of the other book preview videos (kinda watched several in rapid succession and have lost track), but y'all mentioned having quality hand-sewing needles not like what they have at Jo-Ann. What needles would you recommend, and where could they be purchased?
Abby is the one who is (really) picky with her needles - She's used Colonial, John James, Clover, and Roxanne needles. You can buy a wide variety of types on wawak - www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Hand/ (Abby's favorite type & size are Sharps 9,10 & 11.) 😊
I am confused. You recommend Red Threaded but I just checked their website and they have steel bones. You just said in your livestream to never use steel bones. Which is it?
Redthreaded also offers most of their corsets with synthetic (plastic) whalebone. For fully-boned stays I recommend not using steel because it makes the stays very heavy.
am I correct in seeing that the tabs are not boned?
the tabs are indeed boned
Can you dry clean the stay? Or would it be better just to change the lining over time?
Change out the lining when it gets gross. That's why the lining is put in last and just whip stitched in.
Someone suggested to "freshen them up" by freezing and airing them
But the photo of the video was different! 😭😭
Anyway, can I have all this in a writing page?
Because I couldn't follow all of this. I must see it, read it with calm, translating...
How comfortable are these stays for sitting long periods?
if they're cut well and fit they're not uncomfortable - they just give very good posture. No slouching!
I’m confused about the pattern piece attachment for the piece that goes upward from armpit curve…a drawing on your blog shows it as being the back side piece, instead of as front side piece as is illustrated in the simplicity pattern with Abby modeling on front
it can be either
Are there specific fabrics that should be used other than the leather?
Maybe I'm just dense or I missed where you said... Lauren, what pattern did you use to make the stays you are wearing? Is it one of the two Simplicity patterns? I'm starting an 18th C wardrobe soon, so have been doing lots of research. Also, when a stays pattern sizing lists bust, under bust, hips, and waist measurements, what do I need to focus size-wise when determining size to buy?
The stays pattern she is wearing is simplicity 8162
What does the historical record show about stays for younger girls, under 16 or 18? I know they were worn, but were they boned or did they wear basically jumps?
Children did wear stays. They were less shaped for curves, and less boned. Some are just paste-board or buckram.
Redthreaded's designs for stays tell you to buy steel bones, so how would one convert those patterns for zip ties or synthetic baleen?
there's no need to convert, just use the zip ties in place of the steel.
You guys are everything I want to be in life.
i'm fairly late to the party here, but are there particular cable ties that you recommend? like width and lb capacity? TIA
not any in particular, just the really really long heavy duty ones for the extra strong and long parts like the center front and the center back edges. I've found that if your stays are half-boned, you can use the big ones throughout because they're very strong. If you are going fully-boned, I like to use the narrow 1/4" ties throughout and the big wide strong ones just on the front and back.
I'm currently working on my first pair of stays and already considered these thick shoulder straps to potentially be a little problematic. I might use the cotton twill tape that I ordered to replace them and bind my taps with something else :-D
"Boobular" is a great word, by the way. I love it :'D (Yes, me too, I'm a child that can't pronounce the word "breasts" without feeling majorly embarassed...)
yes, the twill tape for shoulder straps works well, is lightweight, perhaps not as comfortable but not as bulky for sure.
If you were to use the Elizabethan Corset pattern generator, how would you recommend putting in the side seams? Is there a blog post or video you could recommend for how to use that basic pattern to make 18th century stays?
I have not made a video for using the custom corset pattern generator, but I can recommend cross referencing the patterns and especially the "how to draft" part in the back of Patterns of Fashion 5
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you! I'm doing a lot of trial and error work and we'll see how it goes.
I've been thinking of making a pair of stays to go with the Italian gown in the Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. Which pattern would you suggest or would I be able to adapt the Simplicity 8579 pattern to the latter part of the 18th century?
The stays for the late 1770s and 1780s are a bit more "prow" front, so not as conical. A good pattern would be the Augusta Stays by Scroop patterns.
Where do you get leather for the bindings? It doesn't look that Penny River have any anymore
I believe Burnley & Trowbridge has leather strips. You can also purchase leather from places like Tandy Leather and cut it into strips. You just want very thin, stretchy leather.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I'm looking at buying soft leather strips on Etsy, but I'm not sure how much to buy. Do you recommend ½" wide or 1"? And how much do you think I need for a pattern size 17ish? Simplicity 8162 says to buy 2 packages of bias tape, at 3 yards each. Do I need to buy 6 yards of leather strips or can I economize here?
BTW, I've watched this video a few times and purchased your patterns and books. I'm just gathering supplies as I get up the guts to try this. The gown is after, and I already have the fabric! You two are amazing.