I've used one like this before, and had similar issues. i found that the best results came from suing a puck that is smaller than the dent.The reason it pops off without doing much is that once the glue sets, it's stuck in the shape of the dent. As soon as the dent starts to pull and reshape (usually from the edges) the glue lets go because it's set in the shape the dent used to be in.
Scotty, I’m no expert, but… here’s my 2 cents, the moment u touch that “hot” glue to a cold panel, it’s cold I live in Melbourne too, the glue is instantly cooling on its surface that touches the panel, therefore not getting enough heat/time to adhere to the metal. Try heating the panel with a heat gun or the missus hair dryer and have the panel hot as you put the glue to it, then allow them to cool together, I think you may have better results. Again just my 2c.
that's what i was going to post, plus keying the panel a bit more with a rougher grit paper (obviously not ideal for paint, but maybe it sticks to paint better than shiny metal also?)
This. And I'm not convinced that Scotty cleaned it well enough to remove all of the WD. Just remember you should be able to lick the surface and not detect any WD ;-) Also, I think it does work much better on paint.
Videos where you make mistakes are great. We all learn when you learn mate. Great video. I agree with one of the comments where you might get better adhesion heating the panel to get better gluing.
The glue works best before it completely cools down. In these winter nights you need to use a heat gun to keep the panel warm throughout the process. They will pop off regardless, and that’s kinda the idea. But you get a better grab in the summer nights when it’s warmer
I've had some pretty good results on some modern cars with thinner panels using the Trojan Dent Repair Kit from Bunnings (pretty much the same but at $30) but it doesn't include the Hot Glue Gun. Ive found that the glue sticks better to glossy paint and with thinner metal, you want the glue to let go with less pressure so that you don't pull it out too far - it does however take multiple times and patience to get small imperfections out!👍
LOL the last run of pucks I was laughing hard at the noises you were making every time they broke loose :-) Old cars are a hammer and dolly job IMO especially Valiants, I tried the hot glue method as well BTW...... Lots of industrial strength glue sticks out there and they need a good hot melt gun.
Great video, this seems like a good system, I have some roof dents I will try this on. On the first dent you initially got a good result and it was much smaller. I would suggest at that stage just putting a small dot of glue in the remaining dent and put the plastic thing onto the glue. When you use the puller it would then just pull on the small dented area, not on the edge around it which is already correct.
Scotty, the dent puller is fine & even as you said for more modern cars where the metal is thinner it's great. I know you don't want to pull out the head liner as they're a pain in the arse to remove & put back in but I would recommend it's removal & then you can use a dolly. Don't forget mate about the Melbourne weather as it'll be bloody cold so the glue wont have time to settle when you put the plug on. I don't know how many more dents are in the roof but I recommend putting on a fine coat of bog all over except for the dents where you can put on a bit more. That way once you block & sand it back it'll be as if it was factory & once painted, you'll have a mirror finish. From working with my dad's old mate who loved his Vals, rust was a killer with them. Great video of your progress but don't feel downhearted. Out of the views you're getting, I'm sure you've inspired someone to have a go at PDR on their vehicle.
I think you hit the nail on the head Scotty, it would work perfectly fine on a new car with far thinner steel. I have heard the paint less dent repair guys don’t really work on the older cars as the metal is harder to move.
good video. I think these things are meant to just reduce dents on painted cars, rather than completely fix them. I think the approach of multiple smaller pulls is the way to shrink the metal back. Also, I don't think I would have used wd40. that stuff hangs around even after cleaning with pre-treatments. A light sanding may have helped as well.
Thanks for the video, was a rollercoaster as I went from thinking I needed one to not by the end. I'm looking at the Vevor stud welders as I found a dint in my ute that has just been bogged over with more than I'm happy with - reviews seem mixed but some people seem to have had good results. In case you need a super long roof in your life there's a VJ Hearse on marketplace (Sunshine, Vic)
I bought a Vevor spot welder and dent remover tool off eBay for less than $200. It works a treat. With practice, you'll learn the amount dwell time required that minimises panel damage but still has enough penatraion to hold on to the panel. Once you learn how to twist off the pins, you'll get great results
I've never done it or used it, but what I am thinking is putting glue into the hollow of the dent instead of puk because you putting glue on puk it's only grabbing whatever surface the puk grabs that is the surrounding area of the dent.... if you put glue in the hollow of the dent then place puk on top wait to dry it will actually bite the bottom of dent so can be pulled from there then pulling around the dent that is already has a flat surface reason why the puller keeps just pulling the puk clean off ...I'm only guessing
A trick to increase the hot glue bond with metal surfaces is to pre heat the metal surface with a hot air gun and apply the glue while still hot, then just wait longer for it to cool. Removal is also easy with a drizzle of isopropyl alcohol. Hot glue comes in two temperature ranges as well, clear and opaque show which is which.. Cheers. BTW, you can get the same kit on AE for about ten bucks (AU). I got mine for $5 without the hot glue gun.
Scotty would it help to wave a bit of heat over the dent? I've never used one of them either, but wondering if a small amount of heat might help it cure.
Enjoyed the vid even with the "mixed" results - I'd be interested how it performed on a later model car and whether the better glues pulled paint off if the panel was painted!
id scuff up the pucks and the dents with something. light sandpaper maybe. its probably too shiny. might never come off though. hahaha. i like the idea of this tool.
Years ago I found out that hot melt glue works much better on car panels if you warm up the panel with a hair dryer first. I learned this because I stuck a pin less 179 badge onto the boot lid of my VC Commodore (yes it had a warm 179 taken out to 192 under the bonnet)
Sorry that it didn't work 100% as hoped on your wagon but as you said it's a more solid beast than most late model stuff. Was still worth making the video and watching it as a lot of people will be using the kit on their later model vehicle.
Yea, those dinky glue guns barely get hot enough to melt the glue let alone hot enough to make the glue properly runny. Demop Garage on here bought a Vevor weld on dent puller kit. He found it worked quite well. If you can get to the underside then hammer n dolly will work too. It's hard to say what's best for a newbie though as you don't want to stretch the panel as then you need shrinking discs etc and you don't want to be learning on such a large panel.
Seems the Ryobi is the way to go with the lifting bracket, works better, but most panelbeater, s, would pull most of it out, then add a wee bit of filler, better a wee bit low, than creating highs,.
I think it did work on the first pull I think I will buy one of these as I just bought a new Mazda and got a honky nut in the middle of the bonnet And dented it I think it will work on that 👍👍🇦🇺
They say the dent pullers with the stud welder built into the slide hammer are the best. I brought one on eBay from Vevor a couple of months ago. $320 , Worth every cent 👍
Scotty i went thru the same disappointment with these kits. Although I have spoken to guys that do paintless dent repair and the glue they use does work. I cant remember what it was though so could be worth having a chat with someone in the field of pdr
Every time you use your finger to check the dent it's putting grease on the surface stopping the glue from sticking. Just in case you didn't wipe it down each time?
Should see if you can hire a spot puller similar to the plastic paintless puller you bought the paintless would work on painted cars and likely anything made after 1975
Best to use a hot air gun to melt the glue and heat the panel as well . I found the best glue is flexible stuff . The most important tip is to warm the panel
Its difficult for glue to stick to cold steel... Try waving a heat gun over the panel and then apply the glue direct to the centre of the dent... I reckon this method may not be too good for small sharp dents, but I would like to see it used on larger blunt dents.
Might get better results if you de-greased the metal with isopropanol and applied the hot glue directly to the metal first. You're losing heat the second the glue hits that blue plastic pad, that's an issue. Bought my kit on Temu and I had a whole selection of different sized blue plastic pads, which meant I could aim for the centre of the dent rather than the surrounding area, again I leave that to people with more experience with working with this equipment as I've only pulled a dent on a Fiat Panda.😂
Scotty, at 13min 38sec, cue the Duke Nukem 3d Soundboard.... "Shake it baby"! lol. Ok joking aside, I'm surprised the results you got with one of these kits and an old valiant. I've always been sceptical of how well they might work on "old steel" cars. Might have to buy myself one now tho!
Unfortunately, I wasn’t too surprised a super cheap kit was a little underwhelming 😂 By the sounds of it, the zap on pucks will be a lot more useful, and I’m pretty sure that’s how the pro’s do it!
Most of the dents looks be along the sides, if you peel the edges of the headliner should be able to get a dolly in there, needs a few slaps and some minor heat shrinks.
The saying is you get what you pay for. Does it apply to this? A lot of mucking around for an average result. Still I have learnt from your mistake/s. 😁
I don't agree with wd40 on a panel to be painted but I agree with the heat gun and smaller puck, if ya don't have a go ya never know. We're all learn as we go.😅
I bought one of those for the dents in my Val doors. The sound of those pucks popping followed by a loud curse resulted in a police welfare check on my home
Those glue sticks wont work i do paintless dent removal you need to warm the panel up with a hairdryer and use heat coloured sticks ie green black red for weather temps for better results. i use the multi led light to see dents better get the panel straighter.
the glue they supply is crap, you need to run down to the big green shed and buy the better glue sticks, by the way, how much was that kit? i brought the same one from the big green shed (without the glue gun and sticks) for 30 bucks
Rather than buy a pin puller use a stick welder, wind down the current to about 30A, stick the rod , remove it from the handpiece, cut it short and then set to pulling on it.
By the way do your homework on buying a electric dent puller too mate, some of them stuggle on new cars ,, let alone older cars with thicker guage metal, but some do work better than that glue gun, thats for sure,
19:16 I could see the brain ticking over, don’t say “On a future episode of Carnage!” 😂 Do you think the WD40 might have worked its way into the metal a bit causing a binding issue? Cheers Pat
I've used one like this before, and had similar issues. i found that the best results came from suing a puck that is smaller than the dent.The reason it pops off without doing much is that once the glue sets, it's stuck in the shape of the dent. As soon as the dent starts to pull and reshape (usually from the edges) the glue lets go because it's set in the shape the dent used to be in.
Remember mate valiant are made from left over steel from the titanic not coke cans like your average KIA
Scotty, I’m no expert, but… here’s my 2 cents, the moment u touch that “hot” glue to a cold panel, it’s cold I live in Melbourne too, the glue is instantly cooling on its surface that touches the panel, therefore not getting enough heat/time to adhere to the metal.
Try heating the panel with a heat gun or the missus hair dryer and have the panel hot as you put the glue to it, then allow them to cool together, I think you may have better results. Again just my 2c.
that's what i was going to post, plus keying the panel a bit more with a rougher grit paper (obviously not ideal for paint, but maybe it sticks to paint better than shiny metal also?)
Agree and roughing the surface would also help. Try cleaning the surface every attempt also.
And a slight twist when you apply, has worked for me.
Try using a tekscrew to hold it in place
This. And I'm not convinced that Scotty cleaned it well enough to remove all of the WD. Just remember you should be able to lick the surface and not detect any WD ;-) Also, I think it does work much better on paint.
Videos where you make mistakes are great. We all learn when you learn mate. Great video. I agree with one of the comments where you might get better adhesion heating the panel to get better gluing.
The glue works best before it completely cools down. In these winter nights you need to use a heat gun to keep the panel warm throughout the process. They will pop off regardless, and that’s kinda the idea. But you get a better grab in the summer nights when it’s warmer
I've had some pretty good results on some modern cars with thinner panels using the Trojan Dent Repair Kit from Bunnings (pretty much the same but at $30) but it doesn't include the Hot Glue Gun. Ive found that the glue sticks better to glossy paint and with thinner metal, you want the glue to let go with less pressure so that you don't pull it out too far - it does however take multiple times and patience to get small imperfections out!👍
Love a good honest review 👍
LOL the last run of pucks I was laughing hard at the noises you were making every time they broke loose :-)
Old cars are a hammer and dolly job IMO especially Valiants, I tried the hot glue method as well BTW......
Lots of industrial strength glue sticks out there and they need a good hot melt gun.
Bahaha! Yes, those unhappy Scotty sigh-grunts 😀
This video is popping off, keep up the good work
Great video, this seems like a good system, I have some roof dents I will try this on.
On the first dent you initially got a good result and it was much smaller.
I would suggest at that stage just putting a small dot of glue in the remaining dent and put the plastic thing onto the glue.
When you use the puller it would then just pull on the small dented area, not on the edge around it which is already correct.
Enjoying the videos scotty nice change from the other channel. And more relevant to us normal builders 😊 keep it up 👍
@@andrewthompson7793 that's the plan
Scotty, the dent puller is fine & even as you said for more modern cars where the metal is thinner it's great. I know you don't want to pull out the head liner as they're a pain in the arse to remove & put back in but I would recommend it's removal & then you can use a dolly. Don't forget mate about the Melbourne weather as it'll be bloody cold so the glue wont have time to settle when you put the plug on. I don't know how many more dents are in the roof but I recommend putting on a fine coat of bog all over except for the dents where you can put on a bit more. That way once you block & sand it back it'll be as if it was factory & once painted, you'll have a mirror finish. From working with my dad's old mate who loved his Vals, rust was a killer with them.
Great video of your progress but don't feel downhearted. Out of the views you're getting, I'm sure you've inspired someone to have a go at PDR on their vehicle.
I think you hit the nail on the head Scotty, it would work perfectly fine on a new car with far thinner steel. I have heard the paint less dent repair guys don’t really work on the older cars as the metal is harder to move.
good video. I think these things are meant to just reduce dents on painted cars, rather than completely fix them.
I think the approach of multiple smaller pulls is the way to shrink the metal back. Also, I don't think I would have used wd40. that stuff hangs around even after cleaning with pre-treatments. A light sanding may have helped as well.
Thanks for the video, was a rollercoaster as I went from thinking I needed one to not by the end. I'm looking at the Vevor stud welders as I found a dint in my ute that has just been bogged over with more than I'm happy with - reviews seem mixed but some people seem to have had good results.
In case you need a super long roof in your life there's a VJ Hearse on marketplace (Sunshine, Vic)
Thanks Scotty great episode. I have used a cheaper version from AliExpress which worked great on a painted car. Love the new ending phrase!
I thought no way this would have any affect on real metal, but seams kinda went ok. Im getting one and trying on my vx..
LOVE THE WAGON!!
I bought a Vevor spot welder and dent remover tool off eBay for less than $200. It works a treat. With practice, you'll learn the amount dwell time required that minimises panel damage but still has enough penatraion to hold on to the panel. Once you learn how to twist off the pins, you'll get great results
@craigritchie1933 Yeah, I bought something a week ago. It showed up this morning
Good on you Scotty for an honest review.
This helps all of us rev-heads out
Cheers mouse
I've never done it or used it, but what I am thinking is putting glue into the hollow of the dent instead of puk because you putting glue on puk it's only grabbing whatever surface the puk grabs that is the surrounding area of the dent.... if you put glue in the hollow of the dent then place puk on top wait to dry it will actually bite the bottom of dent so can be pulled from there then pulling around the dent that is already has a flat surface reason why the puller keeps just pulling the puk clean off ...I'm only guessing
I'll give it a try but I think I did try it that way off camera
I know the one I got on wish came with different types of tabs so when you massage it out you can go to a different tab to get the best finish
Good effort mate. Well worth a try.
I have always wondered how well these work. I Bought a cheap kit a couple of years ago to remove some car park dings but haven't given it a whirl yet.
A trick to increase the hot glue bond with metal surfaces is to pre heat the metal surface with a hot air gun and apply the glue while still hot, then just wait longer for it to cool. Removal is also easy with a drizzle of isopropyl alcohol. Hot glue comes in two temperature ranges as well, clear and opaque show which is which.. Cheers. BTW, you can get the same kit on AE for about ten bucks (AU). I got mine for $5 without the hot glue gun.
She is still a tuff old rig!
Scotty would it help to wave a bit of heat over the dent? I've never used one of them either, but wondering if a small amount of heat might help it cure.
Enjoyed the vid even with the "mixed" results - I'd be interested how it performed on a later model car and whether the better glues pulled paint off if the panel was painted!
id scuff up the pucks and the dents with something. light sandpaper maybe. its probably too shiny. might never come off though. hahaha. i like the idea of this tool.
I reckon that dent puller is a great idea especially on painted cars, maybe less pressure when putting it on, bit thicker glue area??🤠
Years ago I found out that hot melt glue works much better on car panels if you warm up the panel with a hair dryer first.
I learned this because I stuck a pin less 179 badge onto the boot lid of my VC Commodore (yes it had a warm 179 taken out to 192 under the bonnet)
Sorry that it didn't work 100% as hoped on your wagon but as you said it's a more solid beast than most late model stuff.
Was still worth making the video and watching it as a lot of people will be using the kit on their later model vehicle.
Hay Scotty. I had the same results pulling dents on a 2000 Suzuki 4x4. Gave it up as a bad joke. Back to the hammers.
Yea, those dinky glue guns barely get hot enough to melt the glue let alone hot enough to make the glue properly runny. Demop Garage on here bought a Vevor weld on dent puller kit. He found it worked quite well. If you can get to the underside then hammer n dolly will work too. It's hard to say what's best for a newbie though as you don't want to stretch the panel as then you need shrinking discs etc and you don't want to be learning on such a large panel.
Hi build primer may cover the remnant dent, hard to see from here. Some other good suggestions below too, heat the metal etc.
@donfinch862 yeah, that first dent is basically a high fill job now. But the one down near the front is a different story.
Seems the Ryobi is the way to go with the lifting bracket, works better, but most panelbeater, s, would pull most of it out, then add a wee bit of filler, better a wee bit low, than creating highs,.
I think it did work on the first pull
I think I will buy one of these as I just bought a new Mazda and got a honky nut in the middle of the bonnet
And dented it
I think it will work on that 👍👍🇦🇺
bugger, was hoping it worked well so i could have a go at some on my XF ute
I reckon the XF metal is thin enough for it to try
thanks for showing cheers
They say the dent pullers with the stud welder built into the slide hammer are the best. I brought one on eBay from Vevor a couple of months ago. $320 , Worth every cent 👍
Good to watch this with the trial and error
Scotty i went thru the same disappointment with these kits. Although I have spoken to guys that do paintless dent repair and the glue they use does work. I cant remember what it was though so could be worth having a chat with someone in the field of pdr
Every time you use your finger to check the dent it's putting grease on the surface stopping the glue from sticking. Just in case you didn't wipe it down each time?
That's true enough
maybe a little scratch of surface with scotch-brite to let glue stick better
Should see if you can hire a spot puller similar to the plastic paintless puller you bought the paintless would work on painted cars and likely anything made after 1975
I just bought one, we'll see how that goes
Best to use a hot air gun to melt the glue and heat the panel as well . I found the best glue is flexible stuff . The most important tip is to warm the panel
@@daviddeakin2006 thanks for the tip
The kit was designed for new cars with much thinner steel. Thought it did well on the old Val’ though.
Scotty what if you etched primed the surface first?
Its difficult for glue to stick to cold steel... Try waving a heat gun over the panel and then apply the glue direct to the centre of the dent... I reckon this method may not be too good for small sharp dents, but I would like to see it used on larger blunt dents.
I was once a beater i just would have bogged it to easy get it done to much stuffing around.
It's all about time versus dollars in that scene. Building a forever car is a different deal
Scotty, get yourself the black hot melt glue sticks mate. They work really well.
Also give the metal a clean with acetone or thinners.
Might get better results if you de-greased the metal with isopropanol and applied the hot glue directly to the metal first.
You're losing heat the second the glue hits that blue plastic pad, that's an issue.
Bought my kit on Temu and I had a whole selection of different sized blue plastic pads, which meant I could aim for the
centre of the dent rather than the surrounding area, again I leave that to people with more experience with working with
this equipment as I've only pulled a dent on a Fiat Panda.😂
Super glue it will work better
To get them off superglue dissolver
Fun for you scotty
Hey Scotty, do you think the paint adds some level of adhesion that the bare metal prevents?
It's possible
Scotty, at 13min 38sec, cue the Duke Nukem 3d Soundboard.... "Shake it baby"! lol. Ok joking aside, I'm surprised the results you got with one of these kits and an old valiant. I've always been sceptical of how well they might work on "old steel" cars. Might have to buy myself one now tho!
Either a weld puller or hammer and dolly for those thicker panels.
@@TheTigerQuoll I've got a weld puller coming
Unfortunately, I wasn’t too surprised a super cheap kit was a little underwhelming 😂
By the sounds of it, the zap on pucks will be a lot more useful, and I’m pretty sure that’s how the pro’s do it!
Is there a headliner in the car? Perhaps you could try and tap from underneath.
Maybe try the vevor dent puller......
There's different types of glue sticks for different temps mate.
Maybe try to put the hot glue directly onto the metal, it might heat it up and make it maliable
Bog her up Scotty 👍
I would suggest Stanley glue sticks form Bunnings
Great video mate
Thanks 👍
Most of the dents looks be along the sides, if you peel the edges of the headliner should be able to get a dolly in there, needs a few slaps and some minor heat shrinks.
@@st170ish the headliner is gone, it was destroyed when we towed the car to my house without the windscreen in it
The saying is you get what you pay for. Does it apply to this? A lot of mucking around for an average result. Still I have learnt from your mistake/s. 😁
@@glensgraphix I think it'll work on lighter/thinner panels. I think we'd need something more expensive for the Valiant panels
You should be putting the glue on the roof first then place the puck as you heat the roof as well
To be honest i didnt think it would work, mainly due to the car being older thus having thicker metal than newer cars
I don't agree with wd40 on a panel to be painted but I agree with the heat gun and smaller puck, if ya don't have a go ya never know. We're all learn as we go.😅
@@scottburns2712 it'll be cleaned off well before we paint it
I bought one of those for the dents in my Val doors. The sound of those pucks popping followed by a loud curse resulted in a police welfare check on my home
Iv always wondered abput these things. I have a little shitbox with thin metal. Might give it a shot
When exactly did Teenwolf's dad move to 'Straya and buy a Valiant?
Metal finish it. That's how it would have been done in the factory. You have perfect access to the back of the panel with the car stripped out
This metod works better on painted surface because glue sticks better to paint. In my case I accidently tear off some paint with that method
@@marcinsud wow, tearing off paint is serious
@@blownhemi yeah but it was poorly painted. Colour was teared of primer. English was not my language so sorry for mistakes
Those glue sticks wont work i do paintless dent removal you need to warm the panel up with a hairdryer and use heat coloured sticks ie green black red for weather temps for better results. i use the multi led light to see dents better get the panel straighter.
@@XBGTCOUPE thanks for the advice
Autobarn does a ripper little hammer and dolly kit as well… just remember, baby taps, baby taps.
@@HazeyAuto I've borrowed a set from work
Try a dolley and curved wooden mallet, tap inside with dolley outside, and be gentle rambo.
Lol
Will work on a Kia valiant is made of real metal good luck 1:30 into vid cheers Bro
I found that you have to clean off the metal everytime you redo it
Thanks for showing us chineseium products are no match for old Aussie steel. Saved someone a dollar I am sure.
the glue they supply is crap,
you need to run down to the big green shed and buy the better glue sticks,
by the way, how much was that kit?
i brought the same one from the big green shed (without the glue gun and sticks)
for 30 bucks
It was $75
Try putting it on the car panel first. See if that works😊
Make a round circle so that it suctions. Don't put too much glue in the middle. I'm definitely no hot blue expert but that's what I would do
Did the wagon have roof racks Scotty?
@DodgyBrothersEngineering before I had it, not sure, but not when I got it
@@blownhemi the dents in a row spaced about the right distance apart made me wonder.
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering it's a good point
Rather than buy a pin puller use a stick welder, wind down the current to about 30A, stick the rod , remove it from the handpiece, cut it short and then set to pulling on it.
@@davenorman8251 too late
It is winter and the glue works better wjhen it is warm.
warm the metal first,the glue suffers shock on a cold surface,
I’m not sure but you should be able to get black glue sticksc I know you used to be able to get them but not a hundred percent sure,
Scotty that's meant to happen the puk to pop off that's normal
@dragithedon true, but I think it's supposed to pull the dent as well 😀
By the way do your homework on buying a electric dent puller too mate, some of them stuggle on new cars ,, let alone older cars with thicker guage metal, but some do work better than that glue gun, thats for sure,
@@kenwalters2315 new video drops Monday with the stud welder
Heat the panel and pull the dent before the glue sets Hard
Before the glue sets?
19:16 I could see the brain ticking over, don’t say “On a future episode of Carnage!” 😂
Do you think the WD40 might have worked its way into the metal a bit causing a binding issue?
Cheers Pat
It's possible, but I did clean it pretty well.
Hammer and dolly
I bought a unit of Ali x and threw it away 2nd pop
Yep it's a Gimmick tool 😅
nail gun is the go, glue not adhering as there is no paint
@@jonling5173 I've just got the stud gun, we'll try that next
@@blownhemi I know what its like use what you have scotty, you are a legend
You could have hammer a dollyied the entire roof in the time you used for this demo.
Yeah, possibly. But I wanted to see if this would work on the stuff I can't hammer and dolly
That was painful
@@andrewvassallo3444 sometimes cars are painful
A bent puller guy should get them out for at least $50 a dent
😜👍🇦🇺
I’d rather it popped off so it doesn’t over pull the dents
That's true
Better off with bog mate. Those things are crap.
You do not pull on bear metal
Rawr!