You're either using a WRB system that has a compatible liquid applied flashing that you can "goop" around all the extra geometry, or adding extra layers of WRB and doing some oragami around those parts, making sure to shingle properly for water.
I'm struggling to find where to buy rockwool for a decent price. Home Depot hiked the price and lowes makes you buy 20 or more. Where can I buy this for a reasonable price?
What is the technique used to maintian the location of the studs once you put up the batts?? Going through 2 layers of batts, or 4", and trying to hit a 1.5" stud seems pretty "hit & miss".
I would use a reference stud from the edge of the wall and chalk vertical lines over the batts before installing the furring strips. You could also mark locations on the top and bottom of the wall or install the batts one row at a time marking them to the WRB accordingly.
@@JesusBeatlejuice Thank you, and YES, in theory, that could work. Maybe! Belive me, I've pondered multiple options, including thermal camera. But if you stand back and look at an unsheathed wall, studs are often not 'precisley' placed every 16" or 24". Especially in an older home retrofit like mine! I've watched SO many videos and many various techniques for both ISO foam board as well as Rockwool. Taping, sealing, WRB, flashing, bucking, etc., etc. But, there are NONE demonstrating how to correctly locate the studs. You can't be filling your sheathing and barrier with holes looking for structure when you realize you've missed it! Additonal holes a quarter, or even an eighth of an inch left or right is not something I would think is acceptable when they are SO emphatic about NO HOLES ANYWHERE!
@@timrick2 Hey, I totally agree that you shouldn't punch holes in the WRB and I've also worked on homes built circa 1850 where studs aren't exactly dimensional and not exactly studs either (in one case a house was framed with 6x6 oak timber). In your case, if you're not interested in replacing the sheathing, I think your best bet would be to temporarily remove the bottom layer of sheathing from the wall to locate the studs, mark their distances wrt each other O/C, then put the sheathing back. You can also check with a level to see if they're plumb. I know it's an extra annoying step but if you're really uncertain about the stud spacing then it's a layer of QA/QC that can save you many headaches down the road!
@@JesusBeatlejuice ..Ahhh...That is something I hadn't considered! Using a circ saw, just cut a 2 or 3" band accross the wall, then reinstall once located! I'll definitely ponder that!! Thanks very much for taking thee time to answer! Still confused as to why there has been NO addressing it in the tons of videos out there!! In MY case, it's a 1952, and 1/2" exterior plywood sheathing. Continuous hasn't caught on up here in Spokane, WA. Most supply houses don't even know what I'm talking about. Even at my local permit office!! Very odd! But, I have a feeling, and as a carpenter, I want to KNOW not only for myself, but moving forward with others, (if it happens).
I think I saw in a Matt Risinger video where he was talking with his Rockwool rep that if you use at least 3/4" plywood as your sheathing that it will have enough holding strength that you don't need to worry about hitting studs in most cases. If I remember correctly he said that if you go more than 4 or 5 inches thick with the exterior insulation, then you will need screws that are not only longer, but that can handle higher shear loads to tranfer the weight and wind loads on the siding back to the frame, and those longer screws will need to be anchored into the studs. This is because the same load applied to the end of a screw that is 2 inches from the sheathing will generate a lot more torque on the screw when it is 6 inches from the sheathing, and the screw will more easily be torn out of that 3/4" plywood, so it needs to be sunk a couple of inches into the studs for extra strength.
I’d like to use Rockwool, but it’s impossible to find here. You can order it, but all the big box stores carry Rockwool knockoffs. Disappointing, but corporate America picks the winners and losers unfortunately.
You’re wanting to block access to the gap made by the rainscreen, which is the same gap/plane as the battens or furring strips. So no, you want the bug screen to be folded under/over the furring strips, not behind.
Where do you buy 4x8 foot sheets of rockwool
What is the difference between the grey "self adhesive flashing membrane" at1:30 and the"pink/red "flashing tape" in this video?
where can i buy rookwool
How do you get the WRB to sit/fit nicely on/around the window buck as shown at 0:50?
You're either using a WRB system that has a compatible liquid applied flashing that you can "goop" around all the extra geometry, or adding extra layers of WRB and doing some oragami around those parts, making sure to shingle properly for water.
why no rain screen over the outside of the rockwool before you put on the siding ?
The firring strips act as the rainscreen.
Maybe to allow sir flow hence any moisture that does get in can escape?
Terry
Rockwhool is hydrophobic and does not compress when it gets wet, so the water drains away and dries out
I'm struggling to find where to buy rockwool for a decent price. Home Depot hiked the price and lowes makes you buy 20 or more. Where can I buy this for a reasonable price?
Buy 20 & return what you don’t use
What is the technique used to maintian the location of the studs once you put up the batts?? Going through 2 layers of batts, or 4", and trying to hit a 1.5" stud seems pretty "hit & miss".
I would use a reference stud from the edge of the wall and chalk vertical lines over the batts before installing the furring strips. You could also mark locations on the top and bottom of the wall or install the batts one row at a time marking them to the WRB accordingly.
@@JesusBeatlejuice Thank you, and YES, in theory, that could work. Maybe!
Belive me, I've pondered multiple options, including thermal camera. But if you stand back and look at an unsheathed wall, studs are often not 'precisley' placed every 16" or 24". Especially in an older home retrofit like mine!
I've watched SO many videos and many various techniques for both ISO foam board as well as Rockwool. Taping, sealing, WRB, flashing, bucking, etc., etc. But, there are NONE demonstrating how to correctly locate the studs.
You can't be filling your sheathing and barrier with holes looking for structure when you realize you've missed it! Additonal holes a quarter, or even an eighth of an inch left or right is not something I would think is acceptable when they are SO emphatic about NO HOLES ANYWHERE!
@@timrick2 Hey, I totally agree that you shouldn't punch holes in the WRB and I've also worked on homes built circa 1850 where studs aren't exactly dimensional and not exactly studs either (in one case a house was framed with 6x6 oak timber). In your case, if you're not interested in replacing the sheathing, I think your best bet would be to temporarily remove the bottom layer of sheathing from the wall to locate the studs, mark their distances wrt each other O/C, then put the sheathing back. You can also check with a level to see if they're plumb. I know it's an extra annoying step but if you're really uncertain about the stud spacing then it's a layer of QA/QC that can save you many headaches down the road!
@@JesusBeatlejuice ..Ahhh...That is something I hadn't considered!
Using a circ saw, just cut a 2 or 3" band accross the wall, then reinstall once located! I'll definitely ponder that!! Thanks very much for taking thee time to answer! Still confused as to why there has been NO addressing it in the tons of videos out there!!
In MY case, it's a 1952, and 1/2" exterior plywood sheathing.
Continuous hasn't caught on up here in Spokane, WA. Most supply houses don't even know what I'm talking about. Even at my local permit office!! Very odd! But, I have a feeling, and as a carpenter, I want to KNOW not only for myself, but moving forward with others, (if it happens).
I think I saw in a Matt Risinger video where he was talking with his Rockwool rep that if you use at least 3/4" plywood as your sheathing that it will have enough holding strength that you don't need to worry about hitting studs in most cases. If I remember correctly he said that if you go more than 4 or 5 inches thick with the exterior insulation, then you will need screws that are not only longer, but that can handle higher shear loads to tranfer the weight and wind loads on the siding back to the frame, and those longer screws will need to be anchored into the studs. This is because the same load applied to the end of a screw that is 2 inches from the sheathing will generate a lot more torque on the screw when it is 6 inches from the sheathing, and the screw will more easily be torn out of that 3/4" plywood, so it needs to be sunk a couple of inches into the studs for extra strength.
Taping flashing to the WRB isnt' acceptable in our code, WRB needs to lap over the flashing to provide positive drainage.
I’d like to use Rockwool, but it’s impossible to find here. You can order it, but all the big box stores carry Rockwool knockoffs. Disappointing, but corporate America picks the winners and losers unfortunately.
Shouldn't the bug screen be folded up before the stripping?
Seems like that would leave a path for bugs between the strapping. I am no expert though haha.
Terry
You’re wanting to block access to the gap made by the rainscreen, which is the same gap/plane as the battens or furring strips. So no, you want the bug screen to be folded under/over the furring strips, not behind.