Enjoyed the Video! Have done this once on my RV. I'd recommend flushing the water tank out, while the element is removed, crud builds up over time, and the element may burn out due to the crud level being too high in the base of the unit, creating a hot spot on the new element, shortening its life expectancy!
Shannon, I tried and tried to remove my heating element on my RVs with no success. Thank to you showing the prior and lever trick it worked and saved me a lot of money on a socket and ratchet. Thanks
thanks for this, i ordered a new element and the double ended longer wrench from amazon. yeah, same as you, forgot the electric shutoff switch. what a goofy location for that switch, i had to replace that last year. this year i added a switch for the heater inside the bathroom. i used a regular wall switch but rated for 20A
I enjoy your videos because you explain things in a simple easy to understand manner. The deck I built using your videos (not bragging here, just telling it like it is) is far superior to several in the neighborhood built by “professionals.”
Good video. I knew mine had stopped working when I was getting shocked tuning it on one time. Sure enough when I removed it, it had the element shielding rotted away. Bought the replacement element at the local hardware store and found that the wattages were the same as you discovered. No problems ever since.
Thank you very much, great video. I left mine on after draining the tank before heading home from camping. Didn't notice it was still on until later on that evening when I was cleaning out the camper. That was all it took. Glad they make these easy to replace!
Shannon Perfect video My current elect works with propane but not with electric. I bought a new element the other day and a socket Been kinda procrastinating cause I'm nervous about taking that flame tube off But you made it look pretty simple This video is perfect for this chore Everything is clearly visible And great explanation Excellent thank you
I use a 1\2 inch rachet with an extension and a 1 1/4 socket, a good element will read with power off 12 oms at 4500watts and 16 at 3500 watts on your electrical meter set on oms reading.
Very good video, our electric part of the water heater quite working the other week we were camping for the week. Pretty sure I can do this. Again thank you for the video very good!
That would be fun. I actually worked for a company years ago building class C motorhomes. Pleasureway Industries, check them out. I started in the wood shop , moved into the installing department and then was the lead in the finishing and inspections. Fun Times!
I use the electric water heater about once a year. It's the same time as when I vinegar clean the tank. Otherwise it's propane. The element is 16 years old. No anode rod in the tank I have. Other than the vinegar flush it's been maint free. It's an Atwood I think.
Actually the power from your fingers maybe just two fingers and a thumb would be enough to seal that if you really wanted to make a better seal you could clean the seat of the port but it really doesn't need it it's a very big bolt the bigger they are the more precise they are as far as tightening is concerned anyway like a oil pan bolt it doesn't need to be that tight either even though there's a lot of heat and pressure behind it or your radiator cap
Cool video, just curious why there is an anode rod in the tank, is the tank not aluminum? I see where the end of threads of the anode rods corroded, I would guess that is where the steel and aluminum (dissimilar metals) and amplifying corrosion. Is the tank in that particular heater steel? Just saw the corroded anode rod which I think would be unneeded. Either way thanks for the video, much appreciated.
You just need the right tools. I stayed in one of these last year for about three months and of course everything broke. I change that exact same heating element and rod but I used an actual socket and socket wrench with an extension and it was super easy. One socket cost about $15 and that tool he used probably cost five dollars so that’s the difference
Great video...but wouldn't it be easier just to open the hot water tap to relieve the pressure? It's never a good idea to pop open the pressure relief valve, because once they have been opened, they have a tendency to leak.
@HouseImprovements Thank You! I have another question if you don't mind answering. We just got a new travel trailer. It's a 2005 cedarcreek forest river. We used the furnace one time and it worked excellent. The propane got low so we switched it out and now it's just blowing cold air. We have ran the stove burners because we were told there could be air in the lines but we have ran propane through the stove off and on now for a couple days to make sure no air was in the lines. Any ideas as of to why the furnace blows cold? The ignitor does try to ignite, you can hear it clicking but no luck. Reason why I asked about the hot water heating element power leads being disconnected having a affect on furnace is because we got those two wires off because we are replacing heating element and needed a thin wall 1 1/2 socket to replace it.... Sorry for the book lol
I dont normally look back at questions I have already responded to but I happened to notice yours. The water heater should have nothing to do with the furnace . If you are hearing the infighter but the furnace does not light and blow heat I would suspect that your gas valve is maybe not opening when the ignighter is trying to light. Double check with a RV tech but that would be my guess.
@HouseImprovements thank you so much man. I recently got it to work. I pulled the side panel of the furnace off a bit with the intention of replacing the sail switch. It works like this but because it only ignites with the side access being open tells me when it's closed like it supposed to be it's not getting the proper flow to the sail switch. I think maybe it's dirty. Hopefully my theory is correct and the sail switch is just dirty
Interesting that RV water heaters have much of the same specs as residential water heaters... 1 1/2" elements, 1 1/16" anode rod, and probably the same T&P valve too.
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Enjoyed the Video! Have done this once on my RV. I'd recommend flushing the water tank out, while the element is removed, crud builds up over time, and the element may burn out due to the crud level being too high in the base of the unit, creating a hot spot on the new element, shortening its life expectancy!
great tip ! 👍
Shannon, I tried and tried to remove my heating element on my RVs with no success. Thank to you showing the prior and lever trick it worked and saved me a lot of money on a socket and ratchet. Thanks
thanks for this, i ordered a new element and the double ended longer wrench from amazon.
yeah, same as you, forgot the electric shutoff switch. what a goofy location for that switch, i had to replace that last year. this year i added a switch for the heater inside the bathroom. i used a regular wall switch but rated for 20A
thank you I'm a female that enjoys knowing how things work
im a guy new in camping that dislikes seeing how all this junk works bc it keeps breaking 😂
I enjoy your videos because you explain things in a simple easy to understand manner. The deck I built using your videos (not bragging here, just telling it like it is) is far superior to several in the neighborhood built by “professionals.”
Glad you like them!
Well isn’t this awesome! Now my favorite house project guy is that much better! We just got an RV. Thanks Shannon!!!
Good video. I knew mine had stopped working when I was getting shocked tuning it on one time. Sure enough when I removed it, it had the element shielding rotted away. Bought the replacement element at the local hardware store and found that the wattages were the same as you discovered. No problems ever since.
Right on
Thank you very much, great video. I left mine on after draining the tank before heading home from camping. Didn't notice it was still on until later on that evening when I was cleaning out the camper. That was all it took. Glad they make these easy to replace!
Thanks for the video, I knew mine was bad but didnt want to chance making it worse.
Thank you Shannon Very helpful video I appreciate the work you put into it
Great video. Just bought a trailer and this is my first task. cheers.🍁🤙
Great video! I was able to get my hot water working again.
Good timing for this video, I need to change the element in my domestic water heater.
thank you for your video, I was able to change mine yesterday! awesome 🙂
Shannon
Perfect video
My current elect works with propane but not with electric.
I bought a new element the other day and a socket
Been kinda procrastinating cause I'm nervous about taking that flame tube off
But you made it look pretty simple
This video is perfect for this chore
Everything is clearly visible
And great explanation
Excellent thank you
Thank you so so much! I’m sorry to hear you have quit TH-cam. I need your expertise!
Thank you so so much! I’m sorry to hear you have quit TH-cam. I need your expertise!
Thank you so so much! I’m sorry to hear you have quit TH-cam. I need your expertise!
Thank you so so much! I’m sorry to hear you have quit TH-cam. I need your expertise!
Thank you so so much! I’m sorry to hear you have quit TH-cam. I need your expertise!
I use a 1\2 inch rachet with an extension and a 1 1/4 socket, a good element will read with power off 12 oms at 4500watts and 16 at 3500 watts on your electrical meter set on oms reading.
Awesome. Very easy to follow and great camera work. Subscribed. ty
Very good video, our electric part of the water heater quite working the other week we were camping for the week. Pretty sure I can do this. Again thank you for the video very good!
Thanks just changed mine good explanation
Very well explained in great detail ty!!
Shannon your the best.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the video, helped a lot
Great video. You should now do a RV series set of videos.
I think you will see more of them with time. Thanks for the feed back Kevin.
Great video! This helped a lot!
I had to use an impact wrench on mine. It was JAMMED!
great video!!!! Love that you made this. Please keep it goin.
Thank you so much for your help!
You’re not Canadian at all. 😂 Howdy from Texas. Thanks for the video.
Do you have teenagers? The back ground music feeding into your audio says: yes.
Next door tenants music
@@HouseImprovements Good video btw.
Thanks. Very helpful
Great video thank you 😊
Great info. Ty sir😊
Thanks.
You should do a sprinter van build!
That would be fun. I actually worked for a company years ago building class C motorhomes. Pleasureway Industries, check them out. I started in the wood shop , moved into the installing department and then was the lead in the finishing and inspections. Fun Times!
I use the electric water heater about once a year. It's the same time as when I vinegar clean the tank. Otherwise it's propane. The element is 16 years old. No anode rod in the tank I have. Other than the vinegar flush it's been maint free. It's an Atwood I think.
An anode would likely fit into your drain hole?
Actually the power from your fingers maybe just two fingers and a thumb would be enough to seal that if you really wanted to make a better seal you could clean the seat of the port but it really doesn't need it it's a very big bolt the bigger they are the more precise they are as far as tightening is concerned anyway like a oil pan bolt it doesn't need to be that tight either even though there's a lot of heat and pressure behind it or your radiator cap
If you tighten this with only your fingers you will leak for sure IMO.
Cool video, just curious why there is an anode rod in the tank, is the tank not aluminum? I see where the end of threads of the anode rods corroded, I would guess that is where the steel and aluminum (dissimilar metals) and amplifying corrosion. Is the tank in that particular heater steel? Just saw the corroded anode rod which I think would be unneeded. Either way thanks for the video, much appreciated.
Could not tell you what that tank is made of.
Our RVs water heater has the heating element located on the back of the water heater, inside of the rig. If you think yours was a pain to remove ….
Wow, ya that would not be fun!
You just need the right tools. I stayed in one of these last year for about three months and of course everything broke. I change that exact same heating element and rod but I used an actual socket and socket wrench with an extension and it was super easy. One socket cost about $15 and that tool he used probably cost five dollars so that’s the difference
Had to use tape on the threads on mine. Rusted threads and actually had a leak inside.
Should have explained testing resistance to element to help ppl diagnose if it needs replacing to begin with.
Thx. Was someone in the background blasting some bass on the radio?
Yes , it was another tenant in the building, Was hoping it was not to noticeable.
THANKS!
Great video...but wouldn't it be easier just to open the hot water tap to relieve the pressure? It's never a good idea to pop open the pressure relief valve, because once they have been opened, they have a tendency to leak.
That could be true if you never use it. I operate mine every time we use the trailer at least once
Use a 6 point socket and ratchet
Damn good video thank you bud!
Excelente trabalho
Question: what if the ceramic liner is coming out of the inside of the tank? I think mine is!!😢😢
Is there any reason not to use anti-seize goop on the element threads?
Non that I know of.
Do not mess with the presure relief valve unless you plan on changing it. If you do you may cause a leak then you will have to change it
I use mine every time I drain the system to relieve pressure and drain before packing up .
I second not touching it everytime I did, it leaked
9:00 a little antiseize on those threads maybe? (Very little so the water doesn't touch it.)
I dont think it could hurt.
If you have thise two power lead wires disconnected does it affect the furnace to the trailer?
The leads to the water heater element should not effect the furnace
@HouseImprovements Thank You! I have another question if you don't mind answering. We just got a new travel trailer. It's a 2005 cedarcreek forest river. We used the furnace one time and it worked excellent. The propane got low so we switched it out and now it's just blowing cold air. We have ran the stove burners because we were told there could be air in the lines but we have ran propane through the stove off and on now for a couple days to make sure no air was in the lines. Any ideas as of to why the furnace blows cold? The ignitor does try to ignite, you can hear it clicking but no luck. Reason why I asked about the hot water heating element power leads being disconnected having a affect on furnace is because we got those two wires off because we are replacing heating element and needed a thin wall 1 1/2 socket to replace it.... Sorry for the book lol
I dont normally look back at questions I have already responded to but I happened to notice yours. The water heater should have nothing to do with the furnace . If you are hearing the infighter but the furnace does not light and blow heat I would suspect that your gas valve is maybe not opening when the ignighter is trying to light. Double check with a RV tech but that would be my guess.
@HouseImprovements thank you so much man. I recently got it to work. I pulled the side panel of the furnace off a bit with the intention of replacing the sail switch. It works like this but because it only ignites with the side access being open tells me when it's closed like it supposed to be it's not getting the proper flow to the sail switch. I think maybe it's dirty. Hopefully my theory is correct and the sail switch is just dirty
@HouseImprovements Anyhow thank you so much again for your time and you have yourself a great weekend 🙏
Mine has four bolts around the heating element I'm pretty sure it's just a backup would that be correct though
I have only seen the style I replaced in this video.
I change the heating element on mine, and still no hot water with the heating element. Only gas works.
check your breakers and switch for power.
Interesting that RV water heaters have much of the same specs as residential water heaters... 1 1/2" elements, 1 1/16" anode rod, and probably the same T&P valve too.
Yes all very interchangeable surprisingly enough.
I would weld a nut on the end of that tool so you can put a socket or wrench on it
👍
Great, now I have to buy an RV 😂
Whats with the bass in the background of the video
neighbour
Yum.