Thank you! No matter how many times I watch your videos, I always learn something. Being a newbie to traditional hand tools, I've been guilty of holding the knob when dimensioning wood. I can confirm how tricky it is to keep the plane steady. Lesson learned!
Hello Graham. I am very happy to see that you are imparting your knowledge unto the masses. I took a class from you about 20 years ago at a woodworking show in Orange County, California, USA. What I learned from you transformed my woodworking life. Thank you, thank you and thank you again. One take away was that if I wanted to earn more from the sale of my pieces, I should use more premium woods such as curly, quilted, rare and exotic woods, and learn how to work around their unique characteristics. You spent a good amount of time talking about hand planing and how to effectively plane these difficult woods. This crucial step allowed me to reliably produce stunning finishes with an abundance of chatoyance. Thank you again. I hope that our paths cross again.
your knowledge comes from lifetime of back breaking work. it is well deserved it is precious, only who worked on wood will appreciate that. you work on something for 20+ years , that's the thing to die for.
I acquired an old vintage Record jack some years ago, and I love it. The sensory feedback is remarkable. I can literally feel when I'm out of square when planing an edge. Plus the light weight requires little expenditure of energy. Great video you made here, Mr Blackburn.
If you flatten the sole without the iron bedded in the plane, it will not be flat. When you put tension on the body with the iron/wedge it changes the geometry of the body. You need to have the iron bedded andset back from the mouth to truly flatten a plane, any plane.
I always do this, but better quality planes, such as the newer Lie-nielsons, are made with much stronger bodies than Stanleys precisely for this reason.
It's a great video and it's great to see you here. I am looking forward to watch new ones. PS. Your camera picks up vibrations from the floor every time you slap the bench with your hand.
I love wooden planes more than iron planes in most cases. A good iron plane makes prestine surfaces and edges. This is what i use them for. All other tasks, wooden planes are better for me. Softer, lighter, rasiert to handle. But thats personal preference. Love Spur video!
Thanks for the video! I’m about a year into learning hand tools, and I learned a bunch on this one and your smooth plane video. Which Stanley number do you recommend as a Jack?
The Stanley No 5 or 6, but check out Rex Kreger's channel for more info on Stanley Kacks and Smothers. In any event I still prefer an approx. 16in. long wooden jack.
Excellent videos, you earned my subscription in the first 20 seconds. What's the blue threaded part in your bench for? Rex Kruger sent me your way. I've been running Stanley planes for a few years but am now looking for and starting to use old wooden ones.
@@gjbmunc Is it just to make the hole last longer? Do the threads help the grip? I'm using holdfasts too, and have had to dimple them with a centerpunch.
You do indeed need square sides if you want to plane a straight AND square edge ( see episodes 7 and 11). But a 'straight' edge (not necessarily also 'square') is achieved when a perfectly flat-bottomed sole takes a continuous shaving. Hope this helps.
I've got a bog standard Stanley no.5 Jack Plane, which I use for pretty much everything as I'm not well off enough to be able to afford a planer/thicknesser. Some really good points in that video. Just wondering though. In America, they don't generally tend to stock beechwood in lumber yards (and I don't believe they ever have). Wooden bench planes are generally made out of beech, as it's good and hard and (in Europe) easy to get hold of. So are the American made Bench Planes made out of something like hickory or maple, rather than beechwood? It looks like the ones in your video are European beech ones. Are they from Europe (the UK) or are they American made?? I've got one of those Scottish planes actually, all beat up. I'm going to have to find out how much mine is worth! And I'm down just down the road (in Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland) where it was made in Ayr.
Most American-made wooden planes were indeed made from beech although one does come across the odd lignum vitae, etc. plus there are a few new makers, but they tend to be VERY expensive.
Gràcies Molt ben explicat i com diu vostè no fa falta les eines més cares per treballar bé la fusta i que les antigues porten molts anys servin i molt bé, el que fa falta es gent com vostè perquè no es perdi la manera d'utilitzar-les Gràcies des de Catalunya
Use a jointer plane, with or without a guide to keep the edge square. and if the sole of the plane is perfectly flat, then when you can take a continuous shaving from end to end you know the edge is perfectly straight. (Episodes 11 an 7 wil help.)
@@gjbmunc Thank you. If someone were planing a surface that would even be too long for a jointer plane, would the solution be to divide the board into sections, flatten those, and then level them to a continuous shaving?
@@gjbmunc Yah, I thought of that & I might still go that route if something comes up.....But I'd still need to flatten it, given its the tool I would want to use for that, I'm wondering how to work around that.
You don't say where or in what country you live but one place would be Ebay. Another example of what shows up if you google 'wooden hand planes' is www.theenglishwoodworker.com/getting-the-gist-of-wooden-planes/ The web is full of links. Fleamarkets, yard sales, and old antique stores are other possibilities.
Catch 22. To ensure your plane is flat, put it in a vice and flatten the sole with a known flat plane. Question: - how do you get the first plane flat?
Rec Krueger's channel sent me here amd I'm glad it did. I look forward to more of your videos.
Thanks. many more coming!
Me too. Small world.
My lightbulb moment…. “You don’t need to hold the knob!”
😮
Yay!
Thank you! No matter how many times I watch your videos, I always learn something. Being a newbie to traditional hand tools, I've been guilty of holding the knob when dimensioning wood. I can confirm how tricky it is to keep the plane steady. Lesson learned!
Glad to help.
Hello Graham. I am very happy to see that you are imparting your knowledge unto the masses. I took a class from you about 20 years ago at a woodworking show in Orange County, California, USA. What I learned from you transformed my woodworking life. Thank you, thank you and thank you again. One take away was that if I wanted to earn more from the sale of my pieces, I should use more premium woods such as curly, quilted, rare and exotic woods, and learn how to work around their unique characteristics. You spent a good amount of time talking about hand planing and how to effectively plane these difficult woods. This crucial step allowed me to reliably produce stunning finishes with an abundance of chatoyance. Thank you again. I hope that our paths cross again.
Glad it worked out, congratulations!
your knowledge comes from lifetime of back breaking work. it is well deserved it is precious, only who worked on wood will appreciate that. you work on something for 20+ years , that's the thing to die for.
I agree!
I acquired an old vintage Record jack some years ago, and I love it. The sensory feedback is remarkable. I can literally feel when I'm out of square when planing an edge. Plus the light weight requires little expenditure of energy. Great video you made here, Mr Blackburn.
Thanks for the feedback!
Sean Graham at Worth Effort suggested you. He was not wrong. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks!
Thank you for the informative video and for sharing your knowledge with us. I look forward to your future videos.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Very valuable information, looking forward to seeing more!! 👍🏻
There is indeed more to come - stay tuned and enjoy!
My lightbulb moment…. “You don’t need to hold the knob!”
😮
I haven't seen that many molding planes since Dan Raber's shop in Holmes County Ohio
They're out there!
Good stuff,I enjoyed it!
My pleasure.
Thank you
I am learning so much from you.
Glad to hear that!
Excellent vid and channel
Thank you very much!
Great! Sir!
Many thanks
Hello Graham, just come across your channel. Really appreciate your teaching. You have a new subscriber. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome!
Have my wife’s grandfather’s Winchester jack plane. Great tool. Mostly I use my ECE wood smoothing plane.
Very cool!
If you flatten the sole without the iron bedded in the plane, it will not be flat. When you put tension on the body with the iron/wedge it changes the geometry of the body.
You need to have the iron bedded andset back from the mouth to truly flatten a plane, any plane.
I always do this, but better quality planes, such as the newer Lie-nielsons, are made with much stronger bodies than Stanleys precisely for this reason.
hello, i really like your videos, i hope to see more cheers!
More to come!
Hammer sound
Quieter than the tablesaw....
It's a great video and it's great to see you here. I am looking forward to watch new ones.
PS. Your camera picks up vibrations from the floor every time you slap the bench with your hand.
Yes, I know. Technique slowly improving I hope,but the process is amazingly complicated and seems to change everyday - modern life!
I love wooden planes more than iron planes in most cases. A good iron plane makes prestine surfaces and edges. This is what i use them for. All other tasks, wooden planes are better for me. Softer, lighter, rasiert to handle. But thats personal preference. Love Spur video!
Totally agree!
Ok, Mr. Graham, what a waste!
Now. I want to buy a Jack Plane.
Great video and amazing explanation.
Thank you, sir.
You're welcome!
From Kruegers chanal.
Great video.
Thanks and welcome
Thanks for the video! I’m about a year into learning hand tools, and I learned a bunch on this one and your smooth plane video. Which Stanley number do you recommend as a Jack?
The Stanley No 5 or 6, but check out Rex Kreger's channel for more info on Stanley Kacks and Smothers. In any event I still prefer an approx. 16in. long wooden jack.
👍👍👍
Thanks
Excellent videos, you earned my subscription in the first 20 seconds.
What's the blue threaded part in your bench for?
Rex Kruger sent me your way.
I've been running Stanley planes for a few years but am now looking for and starting to use old wooden ones.
The blue bit is an insert for my holdfast.
@@gjbmunc Is it just to make the hole last longer? Do the threads help the grip? I'm using holdfasts too, and have had to dimple them with a centerpunch.
I don't understand how a perfectly flat bottom equates to a straight edge by itself. Would you not need to flatten the plane body sides to be sure?
You do indeed need square sides if you want to plane a straight AND square edge ( see episodes 7 and 11). But a 'straight' edge (not necessarily also 'square') is achieved when a perfectly flat-bottomed sole takes a continuous shaving. Hope this helps.
I've got a bog standard Stanley no.5 Jack Plane, which I use for pretty much everything as I'm not well off enough to be able to afford a planer/thicknesser. Some really good points in that video. Just wondering though. In America, they don't generally tend to stock beechwood in lumber yards (and I don't believe they ever have). Wooden bench planes are generally made out of beech, as it's good and hard and (in Europe) easy to get hold of. So are the American made Bench Planes made out of something like hickory or maple, rather than beechwood? It looks like the ones in your video are European beech ones. Are they from Europe (the UK) or are they American made?? I've got one of those Scottish planes actually, all beat up. I'm going to have to find out how much mine is worth! And I'm down just down the road (in Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland) where it was made in Ayr.
Most American-made wooden planes were indeed made from beech although one does come across the odd lignum vitae, etc. plus there are a few new makers, but they tend to be VERY expensive.
@@gjbmunc Interesting. Wortheffort says Hi by the way (just passing that on).
Gràcies
Molt ben explicat i com diu vostè no fa falta les eines més cares per treballar bé la fusta i que les antigues porten molts anys servin i molt bé, el que fa falta es gent com vostè perquè no es perdi la manera d'utilitzar-les
Gràcies des de Catalunya
Crec que és important que le gent recordi les antigues maneres.
wooden planes rule!
In many ways, yes!
What was the technique used to flattening long faces that were more than twice the length of the plane?
Use a jointer plane, with or without a guide to keep the edge square. and if the sole of the plane is perfectly flat, then when you can take a continuous shaving from end to end you know the edge is perfectly straight. (Episodes 11 an 7 wil help.)
@@gjbmunc Thank you. If someone were planing a surface that would even be too long for a jointer plane, would the solution be to divide the board into sections, flatten those, and then level them to a continuous shaving?
so if you wanted to make a wood jack plane, but dont have an existing jack plane, how would you go about doing that?
Buy a super cheap (damaged) plane on eBay and use it as a model.
@@gjbmunc Yah, I thought of that & I might still go that route if something comes up.....But I'd still need to flatten it, given its the tool I would want to use for that, I'm wondering how to work around that.
I’m having a hard time finding somewhere I can buy one of the wooden jack planers online, any recommendations?
You don't say where or in what country you live but one place would be Ebay. Another example of what shows up if you google 'wooden hand planes' is www.theenglishwoodworker.com/getting-the-gist-of-wooden-planes/
The web is full of links. Fleamarkets, yard sales, and old antique stores are other possibilities.
english, american, dutch accent? Thanks for the info
H
Well that explains why my long block plane is some what dysfunctional. I think I may even have a perfect piece of ebony!
please post a foto, especially of the perfect ebony!
Hi thé title is funny because it is a typical "english" plane we don't use in France for example 😉
How about: le rabot plus important pour les anglaises et americains?
@@gjbmunc ahah no way, i was kidding no worry 😅
I even got two of them cause they are very useful and efficient. Roubo s riflard (shorter and thiner than a jointer plane (varlope)) works fine too.
Catch 22. To ensure your plane is flat, put it in a vice and flatten the sole with a known flat plane.
Question: - how do you get the first plane flat?
Yes, it is a bit of a catch 22 if you're starting from scratch, the trick is bit by bit from one plane to the other!