Your exactly right and most people don't know it they break out the timing light look it up oh initial timing factory says it's supposed to be 4 deg btdc and they set it there and then wonder why it just doesn't seem to have much get up and go as you pointed out initial timing makes no difference it's a benchmark and means nada your not making power at idle anyway as long as it starts good and is happy ten dg 12 or 20 deg btdc makes no difference whatsoever it's Total timing all in and when that matters and that's all determined by car weight gear ratio engine static compression and octane in the fuel all those factors come into play so you said you never hit it right first time well hell w all those factors and one that can change the octane how could you it's a compromise like everything else you get as close as you can and call it good and that's it the biggest thing is ignition parts the module and magnetic pickup to be of good good quality to ensure longevity and engine RPM w out a hiccup then good cap rotor wires plugs and a good hot coil yeah the factory one is ok ish for normal stuff but any kind of wanting the most out of what you have it's worth it if you do all those things it's guaranteed to start when it's freezing out and stay running and not give you any issues how many times I had guys say my car needs a carburetor it's running like shit for me to tell them no bro it's not the carb it's all in the ignition and timing I'd give it back to them and they would say wtf it's like it's got a brand new motor in it god this thing runs great now at the time in the 80s we all were driving ten yrs old or more cars a lot of them still had points I'd swap them over to the hei work my little majic that we just discussed on them. And those cars ran better than they ever did before even new and I was the he hero lol 1973 or 74 was the time when points when away but a lot of us had 70.chevelles and Camaros and trucks and yadda yadda so I was the go to guy on that and still am good at it but it is a lost art and I've not done much of that in years now but 18436572 is engrained in my brain to the grave lol
I got a 74 nova and the bumpers weigh more than tbe guy below me's comment Should I drop the bumpers and keep my 327 cubic inches of love or 572 swap it and twist the unibody with my subframe connectors that might or might not be old fence post until the windshield cracks
If you want to learn how much ignition timing any particular engine needs then read Performance Ignitions by Dr Christopher Jacobs! There are no rules of thumb! My 454 loves 40 degrees total timing on 87 octane....a factory HEI isn’t going to give you 40 degrees either because they only mech advance 18-20 degrees unmodified. Read Dr Jacobs book and become the expert!
You locked out vacuum advance, not mechanical advance, why? Your idle will be shit and have poor vacuum which will make your carb harder to tune and probably have to turn up curb idle so far you uncover the transfer slots too much and trigger a lean stumble ......and engine will run hotter....
the only thing worth while in the mr gasket set is the springs..everything else is crap,do NOT use any of the weights,counter weights etc,they are fucking garbage
Your exactly right and most people don't know it they break out the timing light look it up oh initial timing factory says it's supposed to be 4 deg btdc and they set it there and then wonder why it just doesn't seem to have much get up and go as you pointed out initial timing makes no difference it's a benchmark and means nada your not making power at idle anyway as long as it starts good and is happy ten dg 12 or 20 deg btdc makes no difference whatsoever it's Total timing all in and when that matters and that's all determined by car weight gear ratio engine static compression and octane in the fuel all those factors come into play so you said you never hit it right first time well hell w all those factors and one that can change the octane how could you it's a compromise like everything else you get as close as you can and call it good and that's it the biggest thing is ignition parts the module and magnetic pickup to be of good good quality to ensure longevity and engine RPM w out a hiccup then good cap rotor wires plugs and a good hot coil yeah the factory one is ok ish for normal stuff but any kind of wanting the most out of what you have it's worth it if you do all those things it's guaranteed to start when it's freezing out and stay running and not give you any issues how many times I had guys say my car needs a carburetor it's running like shit for me to tell them no bro it's not the carb it's all in the ignition and timing I'd give it back to them and they would say wtf it's like it's got a brand new motor in it god this thing runs great now at the time in the 80s we all were driving ten yrs old or more cars a lot of them still had points I'd swap them over to the hei work my little majic that we just discussed on them. And those cars ran better than they ever did before even new and I was the he hero lol 1973 or 74 was the time when points when away but a lot of us had 70.chevelles and Camaros and trucks and yadda yadda so I was the go to guy on that and still am good at it but it is a lost art and I've not done much of that in years now but 18436572 is engrained in my brain to the grave lol
just don't hook up the vacuum line ?
The advance hits the coolant bypass on this engine so it has to be removed.
Why did you not change the weights when using new springs?
The weights are to light that comes with the kit. Heavy weights and light springs makes for a quicker advance.
Just disconnect the vacuum advance line, so what is point of removing it??!!
This engine has coolant bypass lines on the intake the advance hits the bypass.
I got a 74 nova and the bumpers weigh more than tbe guy below me's comment
Should I drop the bumpers and keep my 327 cubic inches of love or 572 swap it and twist the unibody with my subframe connectors that might or might not be old fence post until the windshield cracks
If you want to learn how much ignition timing any particular engine needs then read Performance Ignitions by Dr Christopher Jacobs! There are no rules of thumb! My 454 loves 40 degrees total timing on 87 octane....a factory HEI isn’t going to give you 40 degrees either because they only mech advance 18-20 degrees unmodified. Read Dr Jacobs book and become the expert!
You locked out vacuum advance, not mechanical advance, why? Your idle will be shit and have poor vacuum which will make your carb harder to tune and probably have to turn up curb idle so far you uncover the transfer slots too much and trigger a lean stumble ......and engine will run hotter....
I have never had any of these problems, How does removing the vacuum advance affect carburetor vacuum.
the only thing worth while in the mr gasket set is the springs..everything else is crap,do NOT use any of the weights,counter weights etc,they are fucking garbage