Jersey Mike HVAC - thank you! I just want to add that I am impressed with YOU, your teaching style and your videos (clarity, no blah, blah, blah, no loud music - just right to the points). Most impressive is the time you spend in respectfully and precisely answering all the questions - even the questions that you clearly addressed in your video! You are a top-notch professional and human being. Made my day. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video, I've been trying to find an answer to what I'm experiencing and haven't found it yet, I'm hoping you can help me. I have heating only and just installed a smart thermostat. I have 27vac between RH and G as well as RH and C, but when I have the panel door open (no voltage), I'm measuring a continuity between RH and C as 0 ohms. I only started checking this after my smart thermostat reading was way off (10F cooler than actual), upon looking at the actual control board in the furnace I can see some dark spots, not only that, I can see those spots are hot (using IR cam). Right now I'm leaving all offline until I can figure out if this is how it should be or if there is a short somewhere in the board (old furnace but can buy replacement board for $300). What are your thoughts on this and should I just man up to replacing the old board for the 90's?
I have a three wire system. Red, white and green. I have central air and a gas furnace. I have been having issues with the programmable thermostat. To the point that I want a no programmable one. However I can not get one to work with only the three wires. Any advice? Thank you.
My Honeywell thermostat had a jumper from R to RC and Im switching to Amazon smart thermostat (also made by honeywell). Everything Im reading says not to use a jumper wire with smart thermostats. It wont fit in the R terminal with a wire in there anyway. What do I do?
Question, maybe you can help me... I got a new Kono Smart thermostat, my old panel had the R jumpered to the RC as shown here in your video. The new thermostat only has RC, so I connected the red wire to that. Heat works fine, Fan works fine but the AC does not turn on. It does have a jumper in the back that I left in but it didn't make a difference, same if I removed it, doesn't matter. Is there something else I should be jumping the RC wire to on the panel that would work or am I out of luck with the new thermostat? New one has C, W1, W2, G, Y1, RC and RH on the panel. only the C, W1, G, Y1 and RC are connected, so 5 wire without the jumpered cable.
Question. So I wanted to change to a nest thermostat. The one I have now is braeburn and has jumper cable to Rh and Rc. Question is where should I put the red wire? To the Rc or Rh? Thank you for answering.
Either one should work because there is an internal jumper, but I have come across one or two where the Rc connection had to be made. So I just go with Rc all of the time now with a single red power wire set up.
Hi Mike, my existing thermostat has the jumper. I have an AC outside and furnace in the garage. I am installing a Bosch BCC100 and it says remove the jumper, but calls for an individual RC and an RH wire to be connected, I don't have one of each. Should I leave the jumper in? Worst case if I remove the jumper either my air conditioner or my heater won't come on right? Then I would just put the jumper in?
If you have an ac coil on top of your furnace then leave the jumper in. The blower inside the furnace is used for both heating and cooling. But yeah, if the jumper is out and one doesn't work, putting the jumper back in will fix it. .
When you say they don't work together, do you mean only cooling mode works but not heating or only heating mode works but not cooling? That you can't switch from one to the other and they will both work?
Hi I’m using a 24v transformer to power my smart thermostat because I have heating only and no c wire and they say to connect a wire to c and rc so should I remove the jumper
@@Alairson-Diaz What kind of thermostat? Is the buzzing constant or periodic? A few things to check is to make sure the wires were stripped back a little so the copper is clean when reconnecting wiring. Dirty or loose copper connections can sometimes cause a buzzing noise. Also check the wires are fully in tight and the face and base are together well. Does the buzzing stop when you push on it?
Old t stat has: O G Y and R with jumper to RC New smart stat: I installed the same way plus hooked up the blue because the screen wouldn’t come on without it. At first the ac and heat worked backwards. Then ac wouldn’t come on at all. ( I messed with the app settings and couldn’t get it the ac back). I reconnect the old stat and it’s working fine until I can figure out the new t-stat wiring. Is that jumper wire causing all the issue? The old has it the new one doesn’t. Or is the blue messing with anything now that it wasn’t hooked prior? There’s also a brown wire coming from my wall not doing anything…
Thanks for the quick response. Jumper has been out. I reconnected the tstat back up. Condenser outside turns on when I call for ac but it’s blowing hot air inside. When I call for heat, condenser is off but I get cold air inside. 😅
My old tstat… the wire was white going to the O terminal. Nothing connected to my seepage W terminal or seperate B terminal. So the new tstat I hooked the white wire to the combination O/B terminal since it was in O prior. Left W alone. Everything else is the same. Except the blue wire that was doing nothing before is connected now. Brown still not doing anything.
@@DrakePasley-wq4fe Thermostat settings should give you the option of energizing the O/B terminal in heating or cooling mode. You'll have to set that appropriately.
A jumper from Y to G wouldn't work, but depending on what kind of control board you have in the air handler, just using the G as a common at the control board and the thermostat could work, but that G wire has to be connected to C at both ends. Some unit designs need that G signal. Some don't. I could probably tell from the air handler model number.
Hey Mike, I am running a 5-wire 24 volt setup both upstairs and downstairs. (R, Y, G, W, and C) Installing a Wifi thermostat. (Wyze) The one upstairs works perfectly, has the same wiring setup and controls Heating and Cooling, around 27v on all terminals. The one downstairs doesn't work, same wiring setup (R, Y, G, W, C), same type of thermostat (Wyze), 25.4v in all terminals but when I plug in the Wyze thermostat, it doesn't even turn on. The only thing that differs is that the upstairs "R" wire is Red and the downstairs "R" wire is BLUE. Am I missing something??
I should mention that when I plug in the downstairs unit in the upstairs receptacle, it powers on. Both new units powers on in the upstairs receptacle but not the downstairs one.
It's possible the common wire isn't hooked up inside the downstairs unit. I would open it up and take a look at your t-stat wire connections at the control board. Let me know what you find.
Thanks for the video, but I’m still having a problem. On my old Honeywell thermostat it had a jumper wire from rc to rh. I installed a new ecobee, but there is no room to install jumper wire. I know you said from a previous comment that possible the new smart thermostat will jump internally, but I’m not getting any power.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I know it’s late so don’t worry about the replay tonight, but I can send you a picture via instagram, WhatsApp or whatever app you use.
Hi Mike, I’ve Honeywell RTH8500D thermostat and I’ve opened it to replace with Nest smart thermostat but the back wall is ugly so wanted to leave old thermostat as is. But somehow I’ve lost the jumper wire that connects RC and R, my red wire was originally connected to RC and I’ve connected red wire to RC but it heater doesn’t start. Can I substitute jumper wire with regular wire? Any thoughts. Also I’ve only heater and no air conditioning.
You can use a short piece of thermostat wire as a jumper to replace the lost one. Leave the connection on Rc even without AC. The stat jumpers internally to Rh.
Question for you. So I have a jumper between the Rs on my panel. However I want to update to a Honeywell smart thermostat. It has both R spaces but next to it it has a little block with 2 more R spaces and a jumper built into it. Would I still need to keep the jumper wire or does that little one essentially do that for me?
Hey mike we had a plate on the old system connecting rc and r but we couldn’t take it out and apply it on the new one. Now the Honeywell thermostat screen won’t turn on. Wondering if that has anything to do with it ?
Do you have a forced air furnace or ac? Could be a blown 3 or 5 amp fuse on the unit control board. Wire could have accidentally grounded out when rewiring the new stat.
Hi I have another question my moms house uses a boiler system and she wants a smart thermostat I have another Sensi but idk if I should leave it there too like my house or cut it off?
On a regular thermostat running two separate heating and cooling systems, it would be an issue, but the smart stats have internal wiring that's different and controls that power direction internally. Unless the manufacturer instructs the jumper to be removed for some particular set up, it shouldn't be an issue.
You have a heat pump system? Thermostats not configured for heat pumps used a jumper like that to active the compressor in either heating or cooling mode for heat pump cycles.
I have a 2 wire trying to put on a honeywell the round (does heat and cooling). I only am using it for oil forced heat, furnace not responding to dialing heat up or down. There is a jumper from rh to rc, should i take this out and just put the red to rh?
Can everyone help me out I want to install a smart thermostat And I know everything what to do the part that's confusing me is the jumper wire on RC and RH I'm not sure if I should put the jumper wire on the smart thermostat as well or not?
Most smart stats have internal jumpers and do not require adding one. Some might recommend clipping jumpers. If the directions do not specifically say one way or the other, do not add one.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Jersey Mike HVAC - thank you! I just want to add that I am impressed with YOU, your teaching style and your videos (clarity, no blah, blah, blah, no loud music - just right to the points). Most impressive is the time you spend in respectfully and precisely answering all the questions - even the questions that you clearly addressed in your video! You are a top-notch professional and human being. Made my day. Thanks again.
Thank you so much, Mary!
Great explanation. I knew nothing about AC and now I know what RH and RC stands for. Thanks!
Anytime.
Thanks Mike you made it simple no BIG WORDS!
Right on brother great explanation super simple and easy no extra fluff
Thank you for being direct with your explanation. Worked like a charm. I greatly appreciate your insight. Thank you.
Best explanation I've seen!
Thanks!
Thanks for the great video, answered my question about the jumper wire. I'm only running heat, i left the jumper in and that's ok.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the video, I've been trying to find an answer to what I'm experiencing and haven't found it yet, I'm hoping you can help me. I have heating only and just installed a smart thermostat. I have 27vac between RH and G as well as RH and C, but when I have the panel door open (no voltage), I'm measuring a continuity between RH and C as 0 ohms. I only started checking this after my smart thermostat reading was way off (10F cooler than actual), upon looking at the actual control board in the furnace I can see some dark spots, not only that, I can see those spots are hot (using IR cam). Right now I'm leaving all offline until I can figure out if this is how it should be or if there is a short somewhere in the board (old furnace but can buy replacement board for $300). What are your thoughts on this and should I just man up to replacing the old board for the 90's?
perfectly succinct and informative
I have a three wire system. Red, white and green. I have central air and a gas furnace. I have been having issues with the programmable thermostat. To the point that I want a no programmable one. However I can not get one to work with only the three wires. Any advice? Thank you.
My Honeywell thermostat had a jumper from R to RC and Im switching to Amazon smart thermostat (also made by honeywell). Everything Im reading says not to use a jumper wire with smart thermostats. It wont fit in the R terminal with a wire in there anyway. What do I do?
Thank you!!!! You are awesome!!
I have a RiteTemp thermostat and I was trying to hook up a new Honeywell smart thermostat and trying to figure out how to/if i can wire it
Thank you so much
Question, maybe you can help me... I got a new Kono Smart thermostat, my old panel had the R jumpered to the RC as shown here in your video. The new thermostat only has RC, so I connected the red wire to that. Heat works fine, Fan works fine but the AC does not turn on. It does have a jumper in the back that I left in but it didn't make a difference, same if I removed it, doesn't matter. Is there something else I should be jumping the RC wire to on the panel that would work or am I out of luck with the new thermostat?
New one has C, W1, W2, G, Y1, RC and RH on the panel. only the C, W1, G, Y1 and RC are connected, so 5 wire without the jumpered cable.
Take the red wire off of Rc and place it on Rh. Leave the jumper in on the back.
Question. So I wanted to change to a nest thermostat. The one I have now is braeburn and has jumper cable to Rh and Rc. Question is where should I put the red wire? To the Rc or Rh? Thank you for answering.
Either one should work because there is an internal jumper, but I have come across one or two where the Rc connection had to be made. So I just go with Rc all of the time now with a single red power wire set up.
Hi Mike, my existing thermostat has the jumper. I have an AC outside and furnace in the garage. I am installing a Bosch BCC100 and it says remove the jumper, but calls for an individual RC and an RH wire to be connected, I don't have one of each. Should I leave the jumper in?
Worst case if I remove the jumper either my air conditioner or my heater won't come on right? Then I would just put the jumper in?
If you have an ac coil on top of your furnace then leave the jumper in. The blower inside the furnace is used for both heating and cooling.
But yeah, if the jumper is out and one doesn't work, putting the jumper back in will fix it. .
So I have an issue. If I hook the wires to heat or cooling they run, but they don't work together?
When you say they don't work together, do you mean only cooling mode works but not heating or only heating mode works but not cooling? That you can't switch from one to the other and they will both work?
Does this mean that if I have a dedicated wire for RC and dedicated wire for RH that I would always remove the jumper?
Smart thermostats can be different, but with any typical battery operated thermostat, yes, remove the jumper in that case.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thank you!
Hi I’m using a 24v transformer to power my smart thermostat because I have heating only and no c wire and they say to connect a wire to c and rc so should I remove the jumper
You can leave the jumper in.
Hi I installed the thermostat and it’s making a weird buzzing what should I do
@@Alairson-Diaz What kind of thermostat? Is the buzzing constant or periodic?
A few things to check is to make sure the wires were stripped back a little so the copper is clean when reconnecting wiring. Dirty or loose copper connections can sometimes cause a buzzing noise.
Also check the wires are fully in tight and the face and base are together well. Does the buzzing stop when you push on it?
It is an Emerson Sensi. It buzzes for a while then stops and comes back. And idk if I can check because I’m scared the the heater won’t kick on again
Yeah it went away for like a day and then came back then went away the came back
Old t stat has: O G Y and R with jumper to RC
New smart stat: I installed the same way plus hooked up the blue because the screen wouldn’t come on without it. At first the ac and heat worked backwards. Then ac wouldn’t come on at all. ( I messed with the app settings and couldn’t get it the ac back). I reconnect the old stat and it’s working fine until I can figure out the new t-stat wiring.
Is that jumper wire causing all the issue? The old has it the new one doesn’t. Or is the blue messing with anything now that it wasn’t hooked prior? There’s also a brown wire coming from my wall not doing anything…
The smart thermostats don't need the jumper. You can remove it. That will likely fix the issue.
Thanks for the quick response. Jumper has been out. I reconnected the tstat back up. Condenser outside turns on when I call for ac but it’s blowing hot air inside. When I call for heat, condenser is off but I get cold air inside. 😅
My old tstat… the wire was white going to the O terminal. Nothing connected to my seepage W terminal or seperate B terminal.
So the new tstat I hooked the white wire to the combination O/B terminal since it was in O prior. Left W alone.
Everything else is the same. Except the blue wire that was doing nothing before is connected now. Brown still not doing anything.
@@DrakePasley-wq4fe Thermostat settings should give you the option of energizing the O/B terminal in heating or cooling mode. You'll have to set that appropriately.
@DrakePasley-wq4fe go into thermostat settings and set the O/B terminal to energize in heating mode.
Can you use it to make more power for a c wire that's not there to avoid having to get one?
I'm not familiar with any technique along those lines.
🎶In the end, it doesn't even matter.🎶
I run cool only, and i was thinking of taking it out, but I'll leave it in.
Hi, i dont have c wire can i make jumpers between Y and G and the G wire for C ?
A jumper from Y to G wouldn't work, but depending on what kind of control board you have in the air handler, just using the G as a common at the control board and the thermostat could work, but that G wire has to be connected to C at both ends.
Some unit designs need that G signal. Some don't. I could probably tell from the air handler model number.
Hey Mike, I am running a 5-wire 24 volt setup both upstairs and downstairs. (R, Y, G, W, and C) Installing a Wifi thermostat. (Wyze) The one upstairs works perfectly, has the same wiring setup and controls Heating and Cooling, around 27v on all terminals. The one downstairs doesn't work, same wiring setup (R, Y, G, W, C), same type of thermostat (Wyze), 25.4v in all terminals but when I plug in the Wyze thermostat, it doesn't even turn on. The only thing that differs is that the upstairs "R" wire is Red and the downstairs "R" wire is BLUE. Am I missing something??
I should mention that when I plug in the downstairs unit in the upstairs receptacle, it powers on. Both new units powers on in the upstairs receptacle but not the downstairs one.
It's possible the common wire isn't hooked up inside the downstairs unit. I would open it up and take a look at your t-stat wire connections at the control board. Let me know what you find.
Thanks for the video, but I’m still having a problem. On my old Honeywell thermostat it had a jumper wire from rc to rh. I installed a new ecobee, but there is no room to install jumper wire. I know you said from a previous comment that possible the new smart thermostat will jump internally, but I’m not getting any power.
Just heat? Heat and AC? Where is the wire connected? Rc or Rh?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC dual zone and controls both heat and cooling.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I know it’s late so don’t worry about the replay tonight, but I can send you a picture via instagram, WhatsApp or whatever app you use.
Mjrusso@protonmail.com
Did you guys figure it out?
Hi Mike, I’ve Honeywell RTH8500D thermostat and I’ve opened it to replace with Nest smart thermostat but the back wall is ugly so wanted to leave old thermostat as is. But somehow I’ve lost the jumper wire that connects RC and R, my red wire was originally connected to RC and I’ve connected red wire to RC but it heater doesn’t start. Can I substitute jumper wire with regular wire? Any thoughts. Also I’ve only heater and no air conditioning.
You can use a short piece of thermostat wire as a jumper to replace the lost one. Leave the connection on Rc even without AC. The stat jumpers internally to Rh.
Thanks Mike, I’ve put thermostat wire and is working fine now.
If I install new thermostat sansi st55 also i need jumper or i remove jumper?
Pretty much a Goggle only thing, unfortunately.
Question for you. So I have a jumper between the Rs on my panel. However I want to update to a Honeywell smart thermostat. It has both R spaces but next to it it has a little block with 2 more R spaces and a jumper built into it. Would I still need to keep the jumper wire or does that little one essentially do that for me?
So far as I know, the newer wifi thermostats jumper internally, so you shouldn't have to add or take a jumper out.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thank you! That’s what I thought too but wanted a second opinion
Hey mike we had a plate on the old system connecting rc and r but we couldn’t take it out and apply it on the new one. Now the Honeywell thermostat screen won’t turn on. Wondering if that has anything to do with it ?
Do you have a forced air furnace or ac? Could be a blown 3 or 5 amp fuse on the unit control board. Wire could have accidentally grounded out when rewiring the new stat.
What is blue wire for ? It is not terminated.
Typically a common wire, which is not needed in battery powered thermostats.
Can you please explain this using your cool animated current diagrams that you use for explaining. please!!!!!!!
Like the different reasons why we add this unnecessarily to. PLEASE
Hi I have another question my moms house uses a boiler system and she wants a smart thermostat I have another Sensi but idk if I should leave it there too like my house or cut it off?
It’s a built in jumper on the thermostat it’s self btw
Generally, with smart stats I never touch jumper wires. I just leave them alone.
Ok because I was worried it would send 24v to each other but thx
On a regular thermostat running two separate heating and cooling systems, it would be an issue, but the smart stats have internal wiring that's different and controls that power direction internally. Unless the manufacturer instructs the jumper to be removed for some particular set up, it shouldn't be an issue.
Because they say to remove it if you have rc and rh but my system been working fine for like 3 weeks so I really don’t know
Hey can you help me out my ac not working
Why do I have a jumper wire on W to Y terminal?
You have a heat pump system? Thermostats not configured for heat pumps used a jumper like that to active the compressor in either heating or cooling mode for heat pump cycles.
I need to face time you real quick so you can walk me through this😂
Pretty much just leave it in unless you're using one thermostat to control two different systems. Then it has to come out.
What model is that?
The thermostat? It's just a cheap Honeywell Home stat I picked up at Home Depot.
Your explanation is great but I can't read the thermostat. Blowing it up I can't read it rather. Bummer
I have a 2 wire trying to put on a honeywell the round (does heat and cooling). I only am using it for oil forced heat, furnace not responding to dialing heat up or down. There is a jumper from rh to rc, should i take this out and just put the red to rh?
Yes you can, but not sure that's the issue.
Can everyone help me out I want to install a smart thermostat And I know everything what to do the part that's confusing me is the jumper wire on RC and RH I'm not sure if I should put the jumper wire on the smart thermostat as well or not?
Most smart stats have internal jumpers and do not require adding one. Some might recommend clipping jumpers. If the directions do not specifically say one way or the other, do not add one.