Taking a Joke Too Far!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2022
- In this video I look in detail at the build and soldering process for my one-key (per hand) keyboard. These PCBs were kindly sent to my by PCBWay and look great.
This board, although a follow up to my April 1st video is actually a good way of showing the component build log for the custom keyboards I have built recently, including The Card, The Flame, The Piano and The Flipper.
Thanks to my sponsor PCBWay for supporting this video. PCBWay offer PCB fabrication, CNC and 3D Printing and more. They have been super efficient and friendly with all the projects I’ve used them for and I’m very happy to recommend them. You can use this link to support the channel. www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx...
You can order the PCB directly using this link: www.pcbway.com/project/sharep...
See the April 1st video here for more details on the layout that actually allows this one-finger keyboard work:
• World's Smallest Keyboard
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Parts list:
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Kailh Choc switches (I used the light blue liner ones from splitkb.com/products/kailh-lo...
MBK Blank Keycaps splitkb.com/products/blank-mb...
Hotswap Sockets (Choc) splitkb.com/products/kailh-ho...
Socket pins (pins only) splitkb.com/products/mill-max...
Diodes to chop up as DIY socket pins:
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3alKTPo
Amazon US: amzn.to/3wLcHEg
Full height machine pin sockets mechboards.co.uk/products/mac...
Reset button www.aliexpress.com/item/33013... (Uses the b3u1000p footprint in my Ergogen fork)
Better version of reset button (matches the footprint better but more expensive) www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Battery connector (2p curved) www.aliexpress.com/item/10050... (Uses the bat footprint in my Ergogen fork)
Power switch www.aliexpress.com/item/40006... (Uses the pcm12 footprint in my Ergogen fork)
Nice!nano v2 splitkb.com/products/nice-nano or mechboards.co.uk/products/nic...
Batteries: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194001009975
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🪛Soldering Essentials!
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Tooling up with these links helps me out at no extra cost to you. Thanks! 🙏
Heat Proof Mat:
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Soldering Iron Kit:
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Amazon US: amzn.to/3ouxQ1o
Lead Free Solder 0.6 (for sockets and switches):
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3co1GyM
Amazon US: amzn.to/2YSfZZs
Lead Free Solder 0.3 (for smaller work):
Amazon UK: amzn.to/30A2Yog
Amazon US: amzn.to/3HDDU0q
Flux Pen:
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Amazon US: amzn.to/3Ko9lNm
Snips:
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3PCkX22
Amazon US: amzn.to/3GedYYR
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Downloads:
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My fork of Ergogen: github.com/benvallack/ergogen (See this video for details:
• Design Your Own Keyboard! )
KiCad: www.kicad.org
Ergogen UI: ergogen.cache.works
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Watch this next for more details on my custom keyboard framework: • “The REAL Ergonomic Ke...
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Layout videos:
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Details on my 16 key layout:
• Has Your Keyboard Got ...
Or how about 34?
• You Won’t Believe How ...
Or if you're feeling totally excessive, 36:
• My CRAZY 36 Key 5x3 Mo...
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Subscribe to my new custom keyboards channel! www.youtube.com/@BenVallacksKeyboards
but can you do a haf key keyboard?
PCBWay just popped by and said: Hey, Ben, Good job! 😊
"I put my heart and soul into my work, and I have lost my mind in the process." - -Vincent van Gogh- Ben Vallack 🙂
Lol!
When pre tinning the hotswap socket's pads, just tin one pad. Then align and solder the socket to that pad. After that you can solder the other side. This ensures that the socket is aligned with the PCB and there is no gap between it and the PCB. It's also much faster then sinking and counter sinking. The same can be done for any surface mount component. Also when solder the pin onto the Arduino or any soldering that is in a line it is generally recommended to do one pin from one side and then one pin from the other and continue alternating in an X pattern to prevent heating the board in the same place for too long. But I think this isn't affecting these boards that much
Great info thanks! I knew I’d get some good tips here!
If you found this video useful you can help keep this content free for everyone by hitting the Thanks button below the video - super appreciated.
Thank you so much, I am such a technophobic, I am lucky that I can put the battery back into a remote control!!
Mr Dingbatt has a name for it, ~"Wrechnology!"!! Yep, charming I know....
Many (Many,Maaaaany!!) Years ago, I learned about making/fixing Ham-Radios,,CB Radios and Cars, because these were things my Dad was interested in and eventually I joined the WRAF as an apprentice Aircraft Engineer!!
(I am That Old, the W still in use!!)
My main passion in life was working with horses and other animals.
And I was one of those folk who thought PCs were a Passing Fancy...
Oops!!
Not sure what I'd been drinking That day,,,,.
I've been seeing, this dog called Bunny, amongst others, who are using a Keyboard in order that they're able to tell the owners what kind of A-hole they Are!
Genius!!
My best mate, Jasper can do it with eyes and body language...
However, I would Love to have one of those things,,so he can get his point across to visitors/vet,Etc...
Would you be able to help me out?!
If not physically, by pointing me in the right direction?!
Grateful Thanks and you are much Appreciated,
Andrea and Critters. ...XxX...
Ps, Please forgive the waffling, but I have had a particularly trying week..
@@AndreaDingbatt Really nice work.
Kudos for showing mistakes. Good guide even for beginners.
outstanding camera work, considering how small the parts are! we can actually see everything you're talking about
Thanks - it was touch and go - luckily there is some wiggle room with the 4k for cropping in a use case like this. Autofocus was on the edge too!
I was thinking the same thing.
Good video!
if instead of tinning every pad before placing the part on the board you just tin one (or 2 opposite for bigger parts) the component will be able to sit completely against the pcb and you won't need to apply any pressure at all. you can just tin the rest with the component in place
Great thanks!
4:57 you can actually get pin headers, which are strips with pins that have the same distance as the holes. These are designed to plug into the holes and don't bend easily. You also don't need to trim them, because they are even already. Actually you shouldn't trim anything after soldering, as the cutting causes vibrations which induce tiny defects in the solder. That decreases the lifespan of the joint. It is fine most of the time, but it is bad practice. Trim before soldering. Always.
btw I am a former electrician and I study electrical engineering at the moment.
Ah yeah I did wonder about the trimming after soldering thing. I have used the mill max pins, I still managed to bend them pretty easily!
@@BenVallack I though you choose that method instead using pin headers to get a lower profile
Trimming after soldering is absolutely fine. In fact, I've never heard of anyone, even in industry, trimming leads before hand soldering. It just doesn't make any practical sense. And that thing about vibrations is just plain wrong.
@@djdjukic Well maybe it doesn't get taught everywhere, but it is absolutely true. You can google it if you want, but for me it was enough being told that in my job training in the Bundeswehr. If it is best practice in the german military, it's most likely the way to go in terms of reliability 😉
@@robinte98 Well, fair enough, I know nothing of military engineering practices. Other than leaded solder is still used, which surely helps!
Your content has been absolutely great the last couple of months. It inspires me to tinker around more. Thank you so much!
Hey, I'd recommend snipping the ends off pins before soldering. This can give you a much cleaner joint.
Also, for parts with multiple solder joints I'd recommend pre-tinning only one of the solder pads. Heat it up, apply pressure to make the part even once, and you don't have to stress it or bend anything to put it flat against the PCB. This is especially relevant for hotswap sockets, if they're on crooked, it's easier to snap them off with a switch.
Great tips thanks!
Absolutely love this! Know it was meant to be your April Fool's Ep but there are so many applications for a single-button interface! Keep up the great work Ben! ❤ We're busy binge-watching all your "older" episodes and cannot get enough! Thank you! Edit: if you sold these we would buy two immediately! 🛒
minimum order quantity from pcbway is 5 PCB
Holly molly, and it actually types! Did you know that jokes taken too far gave birth to Kasane Teto? Never underestimate a joke taken too far!
This is clever little project!. if the solder doesn't flow well make sure you're wiping the tip on your damp sponge in between each or every other connection.
I liked your battery management.I never thinked I can also hide battery this way.
I love this custom keyboard content. Thanks for making it.
Hey Mate, great video but if I may give you a soldering tip: You don't need flux if you properly heat the pad and then flow solder onto it, and lift the soldering iron before the flux embedded in the solder wire gets used up.
Ah good to know cheers!
@@BenVallack I just got notified of this. You're welcome, keep making stuff.
Awesome video and tutorial ! Thanks a lot for all those informations
I've not used it but solder paste would allow you to put the solder on cold and squidge the component onto it before applying heat. Solder pates contained flux.
Stay tuned for a video on that soon :)
Hi Ben, I enjoy the videos. This is the fanciest morse code key I've seen in years. If you want to make the task of surface mount soldering easier you may want to take a look at a hot-air soldering station. Even though they are used mostly for rework they work great for project builds. The hot -air replaces the tip so you can see what you're doing and not have the problem of the tip pushing the component off the pad. I would recommend using less solder for the surface mount components. It doesn't take much to make a good electrical connection and too much can cause the component to float off the board. The diameter of the solder makes a difference as well, 1.0mm solder is good for through hole, for surface mount I use 0.8mm or 0.6mm. If you really want to go high tech search for some "solder paste".
Useful tips cheers!
Such could be an interesting setup (with a few software changes) to more quickly learn Morse code.
Pro tip about the jumper pads. Since you used flux directly on the pads near the pins, you could start doing the first pad and just swipe across all the pads while applying more solder to make a blob leaving a perfect amount of solder on each one. You would have to get the iron a bit hotter, but it's so quick there is a smaller chance of lifting a pad.
I agree with the comments saying to tin one pad only, and to avoid pressure. Regarding temperature: I always say that you want a temperature that’s as low as possible, but as high as needed.
Excessively high temperatures can damage things and cause your flux to burn off faster (and the tip, and the solder on it, oxidize faster), but excessively _low_ temperatures also can lead to damage, because it takes too long to make a joint. In particular with connectors, a low temperature leads you to keep the iron there forever, and in the end the plastic melts before solder will flow properly.
Similarly, PCB pads are sensitive to prolonged heat, so it’s better to go hot for a second than too low for 10.
Wow amazing, you made it look very easy :)
Thanks so much for making these vids, can't wait to receive my pcb and have a go at it myself. As a software developer I have to say that ergogen makes all of this so approachable and easy to extend. Don't think I would've ever even thought about actually touching the hardware side of things without it lol. Now onto automating the wiring step into the build pipeline :)
Yeah there are auto routing plugins around - I may give that a go.
This is definitely too far, but I love it!
Seeing all these crazy designs of yours though I'm increasingly tempted to design my own PCB. Especially with the socketed battery and on-off switch, the somewhat commercially available PCBs tend to be set up for wired first.
Exactly - this fully wireless format is really cool!
Check out this new video on hot air soldering th-cam.com/video/yNOGEtqn85o/w-d-xo.html
What a process. Cool video.
very nice lol, awesome mini project
This channel is gonna blow up
I find this fascinating, and while it may have started out as a joke, there's actually some good use cases for it. Right off the top of my head, projects like special effect gaming charity come to mind.
Would love for there to be a use for it - I figured for accessibility devices though there would be purpose built input mechanisms that would probably serve the purpose better.
@@BenVallack I'm sure you're right about purpose built devices, but I believe those come with a hefty price tag. A DIY project might be more reasonable for charities or even friends/family of those who need a device to build on a budget. Just thinking out loud of course.
@@DrDronez Good point!
This could be a awesome security device
This is awesome!
Those round pin headers make the best connection I find. All my commonly used prototyping components have the round pin header on everything I want to stick in the breadboard. Things like dip sockets, buttons, the red 2 to 16 bit slide buttons that come in different sizes. Basically anything with a weak leg.
This is great. Would love to see a comprehensive guide to ZMK, and making your own boards for the nice!nano.
We need to re-create the Mactini keyboard in real life.
To type the letter a, you press the button once. To type a z, you press it... you guessed it, 26 times.
man, I've replaced the buttons in my car keys... that reset button is absolutly massive compared to those buttons on your keyfob lol
This is the external keyboard that comes with the MacTini they advertised on the John Serafinowicz Show
Going through your videos i had been waiting for you to go back to a telegraph tapper
having both headers in to create a dip socket is a good idea, however you should put a an old dead chip, or a chip that don't care if it will be damaged, into the to headers. This will further stabilize it. it also insures proper spacing...
bro will be typing on the floor soon
This one is one key away from a morse code input device. Or two keys away from a mind reading machine
You can technically use it as is for a straight line morse key but yes if you want an iambic paddle you will need a second key. Most people tend to prefer iambic paddles.
I made a 2 key keyboard, you can navigate almost anything with that 2 keys alone, sending a morse code like message and an interpreter
in the theorie coudnt u do a keyboard for old telegraph veterans xD
Hey Ben. Thanks for these videos, they are fantastic. I have a question about the reversible footprint since I don't fully understand it all yet. Say I have a 17 key split keyboard, Can I still use all the pins on the front copper layer, for some reason I think both sides should be for 1 key only because of the way it looks. Hope you have a good day
The pins are connected to both layers - but depending on the soldering of the jumpers it will just switch it so you can keep the controller facing the same way on both halves instead of being reversed on one half. It’s hard to explain and get your head around until you do get it then it suddenly makes sense!
@@BenVallack Hi again Ben, thank you for answering. I had a son in the meanwhile so I didn’t pick up my keyboard hobby until now. I think I understand. So I can route to all pin outs and just flip the board for my left/right side? My keyboard is the same as your 34 key layout, but I used the iPad tool you showed to sculpt it to my fingers…
awesome. I want to make my own 75% keyboard and I need switches like this one (on the flatter side) but these are expensive, any suggestions?
Thanks!
This would be interesting for morse code
I want to be able to dock multiple one-key-keyboards into a multi-key-multi-keyboard
Next -- the telegraph key able to modulate on both sides (up&down, with middle neutral) and provide a key for each hand. The typing rate should be better than a regular keyboard (maybe).
you gotta be kidding us!
You can buy crimp tools for JST connectors which come with a whole pack of male and female connector parts. The crimp tools make dealing with the JST a ton easier than prying with pliers and additionally are quite more reliable. The only tricky part is that you need to get the right JST form factor of which there are many different JST types.
Ah cool just checked them out. Much neater fold of the connector. Although now I have my two batteries I won’t need to do that again when I change my boards of course.
@@BenVallack yeah they're more worth it when you're making connectors in quantities of 10 instead of in singles. Though, I've found that since buying the JST connector kit I started using them for everything, pretty much never use wire splices anymore! After all... You know the old adage: when all you have is a crimp tool, everything starts to look like a JST connector.
I'd argue it's a worthy addition to a lab. Don't buy the official JST one's for $100 you can get generic ones off Amazon for like $20 bucks or so.
the best keyboard for hector
I just wanted to check, when soldering the pads for the nice!nano, would I be correct in assuming that by soldering the pads on the bottom of the keyboard rather than the top like you do in this video I would be able to mount the nice!nanos with their logos and components facing downwards? Thanks for the tutorial, excellent as usual.
Correct :)
@@BenVallack Excellent, thanks!
I just had an idea: how about a keyboard like a glove? With one key on each finger except the thumb. Like this coordination excercise where you tip your fingers with your thumb. I have no idea if you know what i mean but dunno how to describe it. That could be fun. But probably needs some custom key caps or could work with rubber dome keys without caps. I do not have much time rn but gonna do some custom keybords at the end of the year.
I dont like this approache 5:30 because those pins are not very stable and bend easily as you also noticed. I prefere to use the sockets and pins you often see at arduinos or on pcbs and stuff like that. Because its easier to solder, because they are "premade" and can resist some force so you dont have to worry too much about breaking them. You can also buy some with a bigger spacing so you can fit bigger batteries below them if you like.
Tap keyboard
I wouldn't do it with keycaps and traditional switches. Just put a conductive surface on each finger, connect the thumb to ground and each finger to a different pin on the micro-controller. Touch any finger to the thumb to connect to ground and send the output.
@@KyekOfficial look up what the tap keyboard is
@@KyekOfficial Yes good idea.
2:39 actually would be much "cleaner" if you solder that slider with one pad and then solder rest of pads.
8:19 same Here. Just one pad. Place. Then Solder rest pads with that component.
Sure thing cheers!
One trick for unbending pins like that is to take the lead out of a mechanical pencil and slide the pin into the tip of the pencil
Awesome trick thanks!!
Can you share resources on this reversible footprint for the nice!nano? I am using a Seeeduino Xiao BLE and want to create a similar footprint for that MCU, but am having troubles understanding the workings of the footprint from just this video.
Thanks for the introduction to such a cool thing though! I'm building a reversible board now and am really looking forward to adding reversible footprints rather than accommodating extra clearance on both the back and front of the board.
It is in my Ergogen fork. src/footprints/promicro_pretty.js amazing thing!
@@BenVallack awesome thank you. Is this something you made yourself?
@@arcasoy No, it was here originally github.com/50an6xy06r6n/keyboard_reversible.pretty then modified by Anodyne in the Ergogen discord.
there's a number of variatione of these footprints. Best option to look at them and have them explained to you would probably to ask on the ergogen discord (aka the absolem hub)
You can make your life a lot easier by just putting solder on one pad, reflowing the solder when you place the part, then the part will stay in place so you can solder the rest of the pins.
If you really like tinning all the pads, you might be like using 2 irons at the same time, or hot air, you can really quickly solder many parts.
When bridging solder joints, you will get better results if you dont use flux. When you want to prevent solder bridging, adding flux, and reheating is often all you need to clean up a bridge
Good tips thanks! I’ve been experimenting with solder paste and a heat gun. Having some good results.
@@BenVallack Hot air works really well, however you should be careful around plastic parts. You can shield stuff with a aluminum foil tape, or kapton tape of you have it. Also try to keep the heat moving, if you sit too long on one spot, you can de-laminate the pcb
Solder paste works best if you keep it wet, and reflow it before it dries, so keep your paste container closed, and reflow it within a few minutes of applying it.
Its no big deal if it doesnt reflow perfectly, you may need to clean up solder bridges, or use an iron to fix things.
hey Ben.i'm quited eager to get one wireless corne for lay down coding, under which situation my legs will be placed between two splits.Wanna ask if you encounter any connection issue when something placed between two halves.
Just curious, but why did you make your own pins instead of using a pin header?
I usually just pull pins out of a header. The plastic bits just add extra thickness for no reason, there's already enough space for the battery with just the machine pin sockets.
the socked he used is probably not accepting square pins and he didn't have round ones at hand. (and probably a bit cheaper too)
@@ZsoltBottka machine pin sockets don't accept square pins, but round pin headers (for RGB connectors and etc.) are widely available. Much better choice than diode legs, in my opinion. Just a tad more expensive, but a lot sturdier.
I have used the mill max pins on other boards but they’re super expensive! Actually I prefer the way these diode legs slide in the sockets for some reason too!
@@BenVallack you can get RGB header pins on Aliexpress, they can be even cheaper than square pin headers. Diode legs can get too bent and unreliable if you disassemble the board and remove the controller often.
This is certainly a keyboard. HEHE IM FUNNY
I'd suggest to anyone else to not use a bare conductive knife to spudge the controller out of the socket, use a non-conductive spudger or something else non-conductive.
If your board doesn't have a power slider (i.e. it was originally designed for pro micros and elite c's) then you could short some pins that may cause damage. Probably very low risk but it's a consideration none-the-less
Now it just needs a TRS socket for a small PC speaker, and a scroll wheel/encoder
and a connector for a haptic feedback motor. then its a perfect DIY clone of the Corsair 1% keyboard
Nice. But I don't really get the reversible footprint part. When you design your pcb, can't you just place the board however you want? And why do you have to put the solder on the pads? What does it connect, that isn't already connected by the traces?
The idea is to allow for the use of the same board for both left and right sides of the keyboard. If you imagine a controller stuck to the board on the left, but still on the top of the board, the pins will be connected to the opposite side compared with the same arrangement on the other side. This can simply be solved by mounting one controller upside down, but that is an unsightly approach. The solder pads connect the controller mount through holes to the traces, but because you only do one side of the board, they only connect to the correct traces. It's incredibly hard to explain but once you visualise whats going on in your head it makes sense!
@@BenVallack Oh wow, yes, now I understand that's a real nice solution. Thanks for the explanation🙂
The keyboard for Hector Salamanca
How long does the battery last? Does it charge via the USB-C port on the Nice nano? Any chance of a walk through of designing and building split wireless keyboards?
Here’s the design process: th-cam.com/video/M_VuXVErD6E/w-d-xo.html the build is basically exactly the same as in the one key board, just more keys. Battery life on the primary half is a good few weeks. But I’m actually using a third nice!nano as a dongle (see the repos in description) so both halves are then technically secondary and the batteries lasts absolutely ages, must be well over a month.
I hope this whole soldering job is part of the april fools bit.
This seems like modified Morse code
Is the slider switch connected to GND and VCC pins on the MCU?
Would it be possible for you to share pcb files for the 16 key keyboard you did I'm personally having issues getting things played out the way that work as my computer is a bit frustrating to work with the monitor is a 65" tv and trying to build the PCB on that is a monster of a task
Here you go github.com/benvallack/The-Card
Have you tried using a straight key and Morse?
This can be a lock to a door or a pass word to open something.
Thank you for your hard. I am interested in this adventure. However I am a little confuse. I saw many diyers using diode and wires to connect the switches to the microcontroller. However you didn’t use any of those. You did use something you called «"hot swap socket"» around 8:15 minutes in the video. Can you explain your choice? Thanks again
Yep, diodes are only needed if you have more than 36 keys - that is why this idea of 36 keys or less is so appealing. Much easier to make.
Hot-swap socket lets you add and remove mechanical keyboard switches without soldering and de-soldering. This way he can easily change out the switches for different switches, or easily move the switches to a different board. It's also why he used the socket for the microcontroller, so he can remove it easily later.
Bringing morse code back from obscurity to the nerdverse?
an OSU enjoyer whould love that
Someone else just mentioned this - I hadn’t even seen osu before - amazing!
@@BenVallack Yeah there are even keyboard with everything you put in yours(axcept bluetooth) but with 2 keysand it sells as a project and as a premium product and with touch you can look it up you might be interested
Soooooe...if i'm thinking on Elgato streamdeck without the expensive oled keys.. would this be usable?
Don’t see why not, presumably you can setup software to listen for commands like meh+key that won’t collide with anything else, then you can just setup custom keys to fire those and you have a custom macro pad with as many keys as you like.
@1:04 That mini keyboard looks as if it would be useful as a mini midi controller with a flute or saxaphone fingering. Just saying.
Now setup a macro to order a one key keyboard with one click of the one key keyboard :p
This would also be a nice use for a seeed xiao ble, but where to put the battery then...
Yeah- possibly a button battery underneath?
@@BenVallack ooh, nice there is some button lithium cells, LIR2032 with 3.6V and 45mAh. That’s 1month 2weeks according to the zmk estimator with a nice!nano, as I have no idea how much the seeeduino consumes 😍
Also found a LIR1620 with 17mAh…
"One key keyboard" you mean morse code keyboard?
That's exactly what I was thinking! But it's a two key keyboard, false marketing
looks like amazon us link to heat mat is not right
osu players: ill buy your entire stock
Ok just been watching osu vids - my mind is now blown lol!
Next time, please use a chip puller. It reduces the chance of bending pins, and prevent poking holes in ones fingers. 😀
Ah is there such a thing?!
What keycaps and switches are you using?
Kailh Light Blue (now pink) and MBK Choc caps.
Does QMK or ZMK have a Morse code layer?
Can you play minecraft with this?
I'd suggest you buy mill max male machined sockets to match your female sockets.
It'll end up being infinitely harder to bend the pins
Make sure they are matching machined sockets. Nornal male header strip's won't work, they aren't circular
Yeah I have used them before, very expensive, and I managed to bend them too heh!
@@BenVallack Definitely more expensive, but at least they are easier to solder. Maybe I got lucky with the one I used too wrt bending haha
How is your learning going for using this new keyboard? Have you managed to get up to speed yet? ;)
Haha
I mean, Corsair did this for April 1st, 2022
Not wireless though is it!
Is there a link for the one at 00:46?
th-cam.com/video/5RN_4PQ0j1A/w-d-xo.html
People think a one key keyboard is ridiculous? Well, I built myself one years ago, to add a mic mute button..
Ideal!
You did this as a joke, but single button control is actually an established assistive technology for people with severe physical disability. Stephen Hawking was a notable user of one. (In his case, by the end, he couldn’t even press a single button and had something controlled by twitching an eye or something.) I have no idea what the situation is like on Windows or Linux, but all of Apple’s OSes now have built-in support for this, as “switch” support in the accessibility options. Some people press a button with their hand, others with the back of their head… this is literally for when all someone is left with is a control over a single muscle or two. I can’t imagine how frustrating it must be to have to use one, but at the same time, literally lets them use devices that are a window to the world.
Eh... it just seems more of a revisit to the telegraph... 😊
why do you make smd soldering so hard on yourself?
Next vid is hot air gun!
This still just makes me wish that KiCAD and other EDA tools werent so rubbish with their coordinate systems and interfaces.
The dimensioning tools available for non-EDA CAD software is usually way better, like those in Inventor/Fusion 360 and SolidWorks.
If EDA tools implemented that, got rid of their rubbish grid systems, and made the tooling better, you'd be able to get stuff out far faster, parameterise boards better, and completely remove the middleman tools that are currently needed.
Too bad industry tooling is always slow as hell to improve.
Guess I'll just have to make my own tooling :P
Morse need one button to all a-z and few others marks included..
Morse training tool that could be used..
6:14 You are aware that there are also male versions of the pin headers? No need to torture diodes.
2:01 You are not using (extra) flux, means you're doing it wrong (harder than it needs to be)
4:00 Still not enough flux.