CK (Chris King) bike hubs are amazing when it comes to engagement and producing that satisfying hub sound. However, compared to DT Swiss hubs that use a star ratchet system, they can be a bit tricky to service as they require a special tool. DT Swiss has prioritized serviceability in their hub design, which makes them much easier to maintain than CK hubs. In fact, servicing a DT Swiss hub is quite easy - if you can fix a flat tire, you can handle the job. No special tool is required, making it a convenient option for those who like to do their own bike maintenance. So, when choosing between the two, serviceability may be a significant factor to consider.
I have had King hubs for over 15 years but I have had 3-4 hub shells crack in that time. King has wonderful warranty and every time they took care of the problem for me.
I’ll add my 2 bits in with everybody else. I have them on all my MTB’s front/bacK, BB, headset, it’s the first thing I order after I purchase a bike or if I’m building one. I currently have 8 sets, and am saving up to build another bike, Best there is, just today I pulled a BB on a Cannondale Black inc, Scalpel b/c of some creaking. Clean, lube, Done creaking all gone. The Best Chris King. 👍😎
The maximum number of degrees for engagement is 360 / number of engagement points on the hub, (not divided by 3 in the regular hub). The CK has more engagement points giving a smaller angle of engagement.
Brilliant video explaining the inner workings of CK hubs, thank you for taking the time to make and post this. CK R45 on half my fleet - problem free, simple to service. long lasting - you really do get what you pay for - top shelf product.
Been using CK stuff for 10 years now. MTB to begin with and 7 years of the R45s, both Road and CX disc. Only had to replace 2 main R45 hubshell bearings in 7 years. Bear in mind that I live 6 miles from the wettest place in the UK. I'D say you get what you pay for..... 👍
Rob, I met you when you just started experimenting with wheel building. My times of Voytek Glinkowski’s Chicagoland various Teams. I remember quality, durability over quantity focus. I could tell you would stay true to those. Thanks and CHEERS! 🚵🏻🚴🗽🍻
bought 7yrs old turqouse set of chris king r45 hubs and nothreadset. he said it ran 20000km... everything inside looks/works like new, the headset is smooth like butter... the golden nothreadset ive bought 15 years ago with already a little bit of rough lower bearing, was again built upside down a few yrs ago in the 2nd frame (3rd with pre owner). the formerly lower bearing (now upper) of course dont gets better, but it didnt get worse in ~30tkm of urban use with 5bar at the front... the other bearing is still perfect! so yes, its somehow worth the money, at least when you like staring at your own bikeporn.
Mr provocative theory. you never get greased nails as you work on parts? I'd be more concerned about Bill Gates, George Soros, and Mr Gates upcoming NWO vaccine
Very interesting Never heard of a Chris King anything. Is there ceramic in this some where or that's another type of hub or a component? I'm stunded at the absence of grease and dirt for 6 years of use. Did you clean it first?
Hi Drew, We make our bearings in house and offer steel or ceramic ball bearings. The largest benefit of ceramic is that it is a dissimilar material to the stainless steel races so you can use far less lubrication in the bearing which will reduce drag.
Probably the best vid explaining how they work that I've seen, thanks! But it looks like a copy of the DT Swiss star ratchet. Who was first??? Also, can someone explain what this pre-load and bearing adjustment business is all about? My DT Swiss hubs don't require any of that after reassembly. Seems unnecessary and is the main reason stopping me from trying CK...
Hi Greggie111, The face gear design was first made by Hugi (now DT Swiss) while we also use face gears the function is quite different. Our driven ring is fixed to the hubshell and the drive ring glides on the helix spline. When you pedal the helix spline forces the drive ring into the driven ring, the spring is simply there to help locate the drive ring. This allows the system to have more secure engagement that is not based on springs and lower drag, since the spring is not needed to force engagement. The preload is because we use our made-in-house bearings with adjustable preload. This means that when the bearings burnish the races you can simply adjust the preload rather than throw away and replace the bearing. The result is bearings that wear in, not out and get even faster with use.
Thank you for the reply, CK. After watching some other vids I have a couple more questions: 1. Does the use of a helix spline mean that a portion of the drive force from the crank and chain transmitted to the hub, and to the inner ratchet ring sitting on the helix, is constantly trying to push the driven ring and the non-drive side bearing out of the hub shell as you pedal? And the only thing stopping them from popping out is the external clamp used for bearing pre-load adjustment? 2. The non-drive side hub shell bearing appears to be pressed in right on the end of the hub shell. This is good for hub strength as it gives a wider spacing of the bearings but it means it sits right next to the gap between the hub shell and the free hub body. This exposes the bearing to the elements to a much larger extent than say a DT Swiss hub, where the NDS bearing is recessed and hidden behind the star ratchet rings and the ring nut. Is there some sort of a labyrinth or another type of sealing present on the CK hubs between the free hub body and the hub shell to protect the bearing from the outside world (dirt, water spray, etc)?
The is force applied in the direction that you describe but the Driven Ring and Large Hubshell Bearing are very securely press fit into the hubshell and is at absolutely no risk of being pushed out or loosened. The external clamp (the adjusting clamp) is there to adjust the bearing preload, it is not acting to hold the hub together.
Chris King Precision Components Wow... that’s great. This video and explanation goes a long way to de-bunking what I always thought was marketing voodoo. Now how would/could one incorporate ‘Ceramic Speed’ brand bearings for an up fit? Thanks
Hi Ken, lucky for you we make ceramic bearings in house, in Portland, OR. In fact, our ceramic bearings will last even longer than our steel bearings! The benefit of ceramic bearings is that they are “self lubricating” and therefore you can run less lubrication to greatly reduce drag. Our bearings are also designed to work harden and self polish over time getting even faster with use. Because of these design features our bearings wear in not out, getting faster with every ride.
Oil is not a bearing lubricant for Chris King. You need grease. Chris King sells some nice synthetic. I also use Finishline Flouro in the winter due to below freezing temperatures.
That grease works well on CK hubs? I know people say to only use CK grease on their hubs but in some countries (like mine) is impossible to find. Can you share me your experience? Thanks
Hello and thank you for an excellent explanation of the hub. I have a question about prelude and drag. I cant seem to get it right without over tightening. If i jus snug preload nut have slight play while in the stand. I did notice a little wiggle with the shaft bearing. Is this normal and maybe contributing to my problem or is that normal? I did a basic service. Any advice would be appreciated. Besides this issue they are superior. Thank you
Something may be hanging up early. meaning the bearings may not be all the way seated into the shell. if everything is solid and set correctly in the shell then you should be able to tighten the preload all the way (resulting in heavy drag) then back it off 1/8-1/4 turn and have the system run smoothly with little drag and no movement in the axle at all. If you can't eliminate the play eliminate all of the other possible causes that most people tend to overlook - like a loose hanger/dropout, skewer with play, rim issue, etc.
Hello i feel like there should be a very thin washer between the freehub body and hub bearing to eliminate the drag (Like some zipp/mavic hubs have). Or is it bearing on bearing? Is this the sacrifice for the reliable 45 points of Engagement for this superior hub? I ask because when i freewheel my chain slacks so much that it touches the chain stay. Thanks again!
The chain should not slack. It is assembled incorrectly. There is a white inner teflon seal that goes on the outside of the driven ring before setting the drive side hub shell bearing in place. If you can't figure it out I would highly recommend you take it to a shop that is a Chris King dealer that can properly service the hub. It's why we are here.
I'm amazed that anyone could put so many miles on a spoke rim and not bend it. I bend rims CONSTANTLY, so much so in fact that I'm convinced they don't make rims strong enough for people that weigh 250lbs. I also brake cranks and sprockets because of how much force I exert. Whatever bike I ride needs to be a tank.
Dito Fuhrer Nahh!!! - it has become more of a vanity thing to communicate that you have expensive wheels/hubs - most mechanics I know coincide on this one!!!
@RollinRat Good job! The difference between King and almost everything else is pretty large. The bearings are a lot of it. But the overall design and construction make the Kings works of art. Every part is a glistening, machined specimen, worthy of praise. Can hubs be made more cheaply and work well? Sure. But there's nothing really quite like King. It's actually amazing that King has weathered the years and stayed solvent. They're such a departure from the norm that usually something like this comes along, makes a beautiful product, and then goes belly up because they were too focused on quality and beauty and forgot about the bottom line. Examine cut-away models of everything on the market and you'll see why the King stands out.
LOL I just use a hammer and a bar stock.... LOL only thing I hate about my CK hubs is the cassette splines don’t have steel torque pins in the cassette mounting splines like onyx does
Yeah-no. All bicycle wheels have imbalance to some extent. To truly balance the wheel would require adding weight to it or drilling weight out. We will do neither and honestly no one ever should when it comes to bike wheels. The magnitude of the imbalance looks large in a stand when it is unloaded and is negligible to un-noticeable when actually riding.
generally speaking, smoother is faster. A couple of grams to bring the wheel into balance will not affect its acceleration, or deceleration in a significant way.
In the same way that a couple of grams of unbalanced force won’t affect anything in anyway. It’s the same magnitude fellas and at this point any balancing is a load of marketing bs. ....or I’m assuming you all still have your buzz kill bar ends....
Seems like a big discrepancy when CK says that the bearings need servicing 1-2 times per year and you're saying 5+ years. How's that work? Or am I missing something in your definition of "servicing" the bearing and hub?
3-5 years is what is in the service manual we have. The 5+ is what the customer did. We have no control over that. The bearings don't need to be serviced that often. If you are finding a place where they have changed their interval then that's their prerogative but the bearings don't need it. If you want to pay me as a shop to pull them apart 2 times a year then by all means - I could use the money.
Just saying, this was the direct quote from the Chris King customer service team: "Our hub service interval is once every 6 month or once a year, depending on your local climate, riding conditions, etc. Sticking to that every six months interval should prevent any excess wear." That's why I'm asking if "service" means different things here.
Yup - just re-checked the manual. Calling for "basic service" every 6-12 months depending on usage. They define basic service as removing the axle (and ring drive) cleaning everything and lubing it. "Complete service" is needed as needed to include full disassembly to fully clean and inspect items (bearings). They claim it is "as needed". Honestly you don't need it for 3-5 years at a minimum or unless you notice an issue. Honestly even pulling the drive and preload every 6-12 months is overkill as well.
@RollinRat how are those aluminum ring drives? I ended up getting a used pair in a used service kit I ordered and was so thrilled to get them. Nostalgia!
@RollinRat Yes, I'm very familiar with the King hubs. I maintain mine with a King service tool. My Avatar pic is a damaged R45 rear hub that I used to make a cutaway hub. It's the best fidget toy in the world! I assumed you had the earlier versions where the drives were aluminum. I spoke to Chris King at Interbike about that very issue as I was deciding on a rear mountain tandem hub. As I had "blown up" three DT/Hugis at the time (I got to chat with Willi Hugi as well), I was worried about the torque loads on the aluminum drive rings. Ultimately I chose the Phil tandem hub (which I've destroyed three or four of so far, but successfully repaired by Phil each time.) King subsequently switched to stainless. That said, I love how you go to great legths to express your enthusiasm for and knowledge of King products. They could throw you a bone or two! Roll on!
Joe Hense we cover that in one of the other comments. If you do choose to have it over-serviced at that time frame I highly encourage you to pick our shop. Nothing like getting paid for something that’s not needed. 👍🏻
Deep carbon wheels have long valve stems and they can be rather heavy thus leading to the imbalance you noted. No big deal as you don't notice it while riding. My Enve 7.8s are the same.
i hate parts that need proprietary tools.. only douchebag companies do that, like apple. id rather have an inferior product than buy from a douchebag-company
chris kings are trash, the flange on the hub snapped after 4 years, I got the warranty but still had to get wheel rebuilt and all that jazz..never again with them.
death2pc I’ve always said the following: Chris King as an organization has always been staunchly against polluting the environment - but apparently couldn’t care less about noise pollution. 😝 To each their own. For every customer that hates it there are 5 or 6 that love it. Is what it is.
I LOVE CK products, but the R45's have had a lot of issues with cog indentation of the drive bodies. For this reason he may be steering you elsewhere. This was a legitimate problem and I hope CK has addressed it. (Just one or two steel or ti insets in the leading edges of the splines should have resolved it.)
No thanks. I'm just speaking up on behalf of all flat bladed screwdrivers for the abuse they must suffer in the workshop doing jobs they were never made for.
CK (Chris King) bike hubs are amazing when it comes to engagement and producing that satisfying hub sound. However, compared to DT Swiss hubs that use a star ratchet system, they can be a bit tricky to service as they require a special tool. DT Swiss has prioritized serviceability in their hub design, which makes them much easier to maintain than CK hubs. In fact, servicing a DT Swiss hub is quite easy - if you can fix a flat tire, you can handle the job. No special tool is required, making it a convenient option for those who like to do their own bike maintenance. So, when choosing between the two, serviceability may be a significant factor to consider.
I have had King hubs for over 15 years but I have had 3-4 hub shells crack in that time. King has wonderful warranty and every time they took care of the problem for me.
I’ll add my 2 bits in with everybody else. I have them on all my MTB’s front/bacK, BB, headset, it’s the first thing I order after I purchase a bike or if I’m building one. I currently have 8 sets, and am saving up to build another bike, Best there is, just today I pulled a BB on a Cannondale Black inc, Scalpel b/c of some creaking. Clean, lube, Done creaking all gone. The Best Chris King. 👍😎
The maximum number of degrees for engagement is 360 / number of engagement points on the hub, (not divided by 3 in the regular hub). The CK has more engagement points giving a smaller angle of engagement.
Indeed and I should have linked to it in the notes. I was on the spot and had camera brain. Thank you.
Brilliant video explaining the inner workings of CK hubs, thank you for taking the time to make and post this. CK R45 on half my fleet - problem free, simple to service. long lasting - you really do get what you pay for - top shelf product.
Exactly the level of detail I was looking for. Thank you.
Been using CK stuff for 10 years now. MTB to begin with and 7 years of the R45s, both Road and CX disc. Only had to replace 2 main R45 hubshell bearings in 7 years. Bear in mind that I live 6 miles from the wettest place in the UK.
I'D say you get what you pay for..... 👍
Rob, I met you when you just started experimenting with wheel building. My times of Voytek Glinkowski’s Chicagoland various Teams. I remember quality, durability over quantity focus. I could tell you would stay true to those. Thanks and CHEERS! 🚵🏻🚴🗽🍻
bought 7yrs old turqouse set of chris king r45 hubs and nothreadset. he said it ran 20000km... everything inside looks/works like new, the headset is smooth like butter... the golden nothreadset ive bought 15 years ago with already a little bit of rough lower bearing, was again built upside down a few yrs ago in the 2nd frame (3rd with pre owner). the formerly lower bearing (now upper) of course dont gets better, but it didnt get worse in ~30tkm of urban use with 5bar at the front... the other bearing is still perfect! so yes, its somehow worth the money, at least when you like staring at your own bikeporn.
"...[L]isten to all the sweet dulcet tones of a Chris King hub."
Brilliant!
How old is this 45 point ratchet design by Chris king? Asking because I'm considering buying one used bit not sure if it will be the same system
love that shiny nail polish!
Chris King vs Joseph Kousac vs Phil Woods for wheels? I’m on a Brompton CHPT3 v3.
Interesting. I do like the idea of quicker engagement and that they are slightly higher flange hubs, making for shorter spokes and a stiffer wheel.
Great video. I'm looking into a wheelset and considered the Chris King R45 hubs.
Great video. Thanks!
You guys are great!
Fantastic review guys, much appreciated and a very good lesson, 😉👌
I have them on two bikes and can't imagine having anything else now.
Very good explanation! Thanks!
6:30 that engagement gap is called backlash.
Very informative. Thank you for the video...
i need to replace my driveshell bearing on iso disc hub. where can i get? im from philippines.
did that one mechanic lost in a bet or something?? cause now I'm more interested in those painted nails then chris king hubs
Maybe he just likes to feel pretty.
He's part of a glam metal band in the week-ends
He has tea parties with his little girls so he uses nail polish to hide the perpetual grease under his nails from work.
Mr provocative theory. you never get greased nails as you work on parts? I'd be more concerned about Bill Gates, George Soros, and Mr Gates upcoming NWO vaccine
Those Chris Kings are just very loud...sound like a bunch of bees coming behind you.
Love it 😀
Thanks for the mechanical treat.
What happened! Was there a full moon?
Very interesting Never heard of a Chris King anything. Is there ceramic in this some where or that's another type of hub or a component? I'm stunded at the absence of grease and dirt for 6 years of use. Did you clean it first?
Hi Drew, We make our bearings in house and offer steel or ceramic ball bearings. The largest benefit of ceramic is that it is a dissimilar material to the stainless steel races so you can use far less lubrication in the bearing which will reduce drag.
That guy grew a beard fast!😂
Probably the best vid explaining how they work that I've seen, thanks! But it looks like a copy of the DT Swiss star ratchet. Who was first??? Also, can someone explain what this pre-load and bearing adjustment business is all about? My DT Swiss hubs don't require any of that after reassembly. Seems unnecessary and is the main reason stopping me from trying CK...
Hi Greggie111, The face gear design was first made by Hugi (now DT Swiss) while we also use face gears the function is quite different. Our driven ring is fixed to the hubshell and the drive ring glides on the helix spline. When you pedal the helix spline forces the drive ring into the driven ring, the spring is simply there to help locate the drive ring. This allows the system to have more secure engagement that is not based on springs and lower drag, since the spring is not needed to force engagement.
The preload is because we use our made-in-house bearings with adjustable preload. This means that when the bearings burnish the races you can simply adjust the preload rather than throw away and replace the bearing. The result is bearings that wear in, not out and get even faster with use.
Thank you for the reply, CK. After watching some other vids I have a couple more questions:
1. Does the use of a helix spline mean that a portion of the drive force from the crank and chain transmitted to the hub, and to the inner ratchet ring sitting on the helix, is constantly trying to push the driven ring and the non-drive side bearing out of the hub shell as you pedal? And the only thing stopping them from popping out is the external clamp used for bearing pre-load adjustment?
2. The non-drive side hub shell bearing appears to be pressed in right on the end of the hub shell. This is good for hub strength as it gives a wider spacing of the bearings but it means it sits right next to the gap between the hub shell and the free hub body. This exposes the bearing to the elements to a much larger extent than say a DT Swiss hub, where the NDS bearing is recessed and hidden behind the star ratchet rings and the ring nut. Is there some sort of a labyrinth or another type of sealing present on the CK hubs between the free hub body and the hub shell to protect the bearing from the outside world (dirt, water spray, etc)?
The is force applied in the direction that you describe but the Driven Ring and Large Hubshell Bearing are very securely press fit into the hubshell and is at absolutely no risk of being pushed out or loosened. The external clamp (the adjusting clamp) is there to adjust the bearing preload, it is not acting to hold the hub together.
Chris King Precision Components
Wow... that’s great. This video and explanation goes a long way to de-bunking what I always thought was marketing voodoo.
Now how would/could one incorporate ‘Ceramic Speed’ brand bearings for an up fit?
Thanks
Hi Ken, lucky for you we make ceramic bearings in house, in Portland, OR. In fact, our ceramic bearings will last even longer than our steel bearings!
The benefit of ceramic bearings is that they are “self lubricating” and therefore you can run less lubrication to greatly reduce drag. Our bearings are also designed to work harden and self polish over time getting even faster with use. Because of these design features our bearings wear in not out, getting faster with every ride.
Oil is not a bearing lubricant for Chris King. You need grease. Chris King sells some nice synthetic. I also use Finishline Flouro in the winter due to below freezing temperatures.
That grease works well on CK hubs? I know people say to only use CK grease on their hubs but in some countries (like mine) is impossible to find. Can you share me your experience? Thanks
Hello and thank you for an excellent explanation of the hub. I have a question about prelude and drag. I cant seem to get it right without over tightening. If i jus snug preload nut have slight play while in the stand. I did notice a little wiggle with the shaft bearing. Is this normal and maybe contributing to my problem or is that normal? I did a basic service. Any advice would be appreciated. Besides this issue they are superior. Thank you
Something may be hanging up early. meaning the bearings may not be all the way seated into the shell. if everything is solid and set correctly in the shell then you should be able to tighten the preload all the way (resulting in heavy drag) then back it off 1/8-1/4 turn and have the system run smoothly with little drag and no movement in the axle at all. If you can't eliminate the play eliminate all of the other possible causes that most people tend to overlook - like a loose hanger/dropout, skewer with play, rim issue, etc.
Hello i feel like there should be a very thin washer between the freehub body and hub bearing to eliminate the drag (Like some zipp/mavic hubs have). Or is it bearing on bearing? Is this the sacrifice for the reliable 45 points of Engagement for this superior hub? I ask because when i freewheel my chain slacks so much that it touches the chain stay. Thanks again!
The chain should not slack. It is assembled incorrectly. There is a white inner teflon seal that goes on the outside of the driven ring before setting the drive side hub shell bearing in place. If you can't figure it out I would highly recommend you take it to a shop that is a Chris King dealer that can properly service the hub. It's why we are here.
Mine have a little play in the back do I need a special tool to tighten it up
Just a 2.5mm hex. We have a video on our page that shows how to make the adjustment.
I'm amazed that anyone could put so many miles on a spoke rim and not bend it.
I bend rims CONSTANTLY, so much so in fact that I'm convinced they don't make rims strong enough for people that weigh 250lbs. I also brake cranks and sprockets because of how much force I exert. Whatever bike I ride needs to be a tank.
Are far as re-lubing the bearings, which viscosity of mobile 1 works best? Thank you
Im thinking this could be my drag problem.
Pretty much any viscosity should work but a lighter variable standard 10w-30 to 5w30 should be fine.
Thank you for posting this.
really informative video. thanks
Brilliant vid.
Thanks
I don't get why people like loud hubs. Chris King himself said he kept his hubs loud because people liked them.
It's as simple as letting other people know you come especially from behind without yelling or sounding your bell
Dito Fuhrer Nahh!!! - it has become more of a vanity thing to communicate that you have expensive wheels/hubs - most mechanics I know coincide on this one!!!
Hahaha that's true and sadly it's same like muffler there are cheap hub with silly loud sound
Bro loud hubs are bad ass. Silent are cool, too. It just depends on what you like.
Thanks 🙂
Awesome!
Thanks, great video for introduction to CK. Good job, except those nails haha
Just wow..
OK. So the bearing connected to the axle. How do you remove it?
dtswiss has same mechanism using spring
How are CK better than say a DT Swiss 240 hub?
@RollinRat Good job! The difference between King and almost everything else is pretty large. The bearings are a lot of it. But the overall design and construction make the Kings works of art. Every part is a glistening, machined specimen, worthy of praise.
Can hubs be made more cheaply and work well? Sure. But there's nothing really quite like King. It's actually amazing that King has weathered the years and stayed solvent. They're such a departure from the norm that usually something like this comes along, makes a beautiful product, and then goes belly up because they were too focused on quality and beauty and forgot about the bottom line.
Examine cut-away models of everything on the market and you'll see why the King stands out.
Psimet ftw!!
what grease for inside ratchet mechanism
King Ring Drive Lube.
LOL I just use a hammer and a bar stock.... LOL only thing I hate about my CK hubs is the cassette splines don’t have steel torque pins in the cassette mounting splines like onyx does
Preatty good for a part that cost as much as a used good whole bike
you gotta balance that wheel!
Yeah-no. All bicycle wheels have imbalance to some extent. To truly balance the wheel would require adding weight to it or drilling weight out. We will do neither and honestly no one ever should when it comes to bike wheels. The magnitude of the imbalance looks large in a stand when it is unloaded and is negligible to un-noticeable when actually riding.
Not sure i agree with your comment, i don't mind adding a bit of weight to have a smooth and faster balanced wheel spin.
To each their own but a heavier wheel is not a faster wheel.
generally speaking, smoother is faster. A couple of grams to bring the wheel into balance will not affect its acceleration, or deceleration in a significant way.
In the same way that a couple of grams of unbalanced force won’t affect anything in anyway. It’s the same magnitude fellas and at this point any balancing is a load of marketing bs.
....or I’m assuming you all still have your buzz kill bar ends....
Seems like a big discrepancy when CK says that the bearings need servicing 1-2 times per year and you're saying 5+ years. How's that work? Or am I missing something in your definition of "servicing" the bearing and hub?
3-5 years is what is in the service manual we have. The 5+ is what the customer did. We have no control over that. The bearings don't need to be serviced that often. If you are finding a place where they have changed their interval then that's their prerogative but the bearings don't need it. If you want to pay me as a shop to pull them apart 2 times a year then by all means - I could use the money.
Just saying, this was the direct quote from the Chris King customer service team:
"Our hub service interval is once every 6 month or once a year, depending on your local climate, riding conditions, etc. Sticking to that every six months interval should prevent any excess wear."
That's why I'm asking if "service" means different things here.
Yup - just re-checked the manual. Calling for "basic service" every 6-12 months depending on usage. They define basic service as removing the axle (and ring drive) cleaning everything and lubing it.
"Complete service" is needed as needed to include full disassembly to fully clean and inspect items (bearings). They claim it is "as needed". Honestly you don't need it for 3-5 years at a minimum or unless you notice an issue. Honestly even pulling the drive and preload every 6-12 months is overkill as well.
@RollinRat how are those aluminum ring drives? I ended up getting a used pair in a used service kit I ordered and was so thrilled to get them. Nostalgia!
@RollinRat Yes, I'm very familiar with the King hubs. I maintain mine with a King service tool. My Avatar pic is a damaged R45 rear hub that I used to make a cutaway hub. It's the best fidget toy in the world!
I assumed you had the earlier versions where the drives were aluminum. I spoke to Chris King at Interbike about that very issue as I was deciding on a rear mountain tandem hub. As I had "blown up" three DT/Hugis at the time (I got to chat with Willi Hugi as well), I was worried about the torque loads on the aluminum drive rings. Ultimately I chose the Phil tandem hub (which I've destroyed three or four of so far, but successfully repaired by Phil each time.) King subsequently switched to stainless.
That said, I love how you go to great legths to express your enthusiasm for and knowledge of King products. They could throw you a bone or two!
Roll on!
Holy shit, does that man have his nails done limes chick?
Thats the way a freewheel works.
Chris King vs John
Cool vid but man that wheel is out of balance at the end.
All bike wheels are out of balance
Service interval is NOT 2-5 years... It's 6-12 months
Joe Hense we cover that in one of the other comments. If you do choose to have it over-serviced at that time frame I highly encourage you to pick our shop. Nothing like getting paid for something that’s not needed. 👍🏻
Nail polish and long ass beard, what tha'f^&k!
butterfingers!
such a unbalanced wheel , wow ...
Bling Bling
looks like wheel needs balancing !!!!!
frame shaking
Deep carbon wheels have long valve stems and they can be rather heavy thus leading to the imbalance you noted. No big deal as you don't notice it while riding. My Enve 7.8s are the same.
Why does that second guy have fingernail polish on his fingernails ?
Guy Morris because Hipsters!
To look pretty, Guy. Are you aroused?
Who cares? You be you.
Balance that wheel
Nobody balances bicycle wheels. You would do it by adding weight and that's the LAST thing you want to do at the outer radius of a wheel.
i hate parts that need proprietary tools.. only douchebag companies do that, like apple. id rather have an inferior product than buy from a douchebag-company
Hold on... you painted your nails? It dont suit you though. LMAO
nahh those nails are tight
proprietary bearings and tools are EVIL
Man those. Look like cheap no name crabon rims
chris kings are trash, the flange on the hub snapped after 4 years, I got the warranty but still had to get wheel rebuilt and all that jazz..never again with them.
Nice nail polish??? 🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Onyx is better
so they added complexity and a bunch of unnecessary proprietary parts to a dt Swiss hub...
"Sweet, dulcet tones......................."???? No, egregiously annoying. REALLY annoying.
death2pc I’ve always said the following: Chris King as an organization has always been staunchly against polluting the environment - but apparently couldn’t care less about noise pollution. 😝
To each their own. For every customer that hates it there are 5 or 6 that love it. Is what it is.
Durianrider says CK hubs aren't worth the money. That was enough for me to look elsewhere.
Durianrider have no clue at anything in life
I LOVE CK products, but the R45's have had a lot of issues with cog indentation of the drive bodies. For this reason he may be steering you elsewhere. This was a legitimate problem and I hope CK has addressed it. (Just one or two steel or ti insets in the leading edges of the splines should have resolved it.)
@@dudeonbike800 I'm running Hope P4's. They're legit.
"Use the proper tools", skips to guy picking out the bearing seals with a small screwdriver instead of a much more suitable seal pick.
Alex Paulsen would you like a picture of the service instructions where they specifically call out using a small screwdriver to pick the seal?
No thanks. I'm just speaking up on behalf of all flat bladed screwdrivers for the abuse they must suffer in the workshop doing jobs they were never made for.