For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
Miles, you are such a talented educator! I am so glad to have found your videos. I share them daily with other dog owners and social media groups on training reactive dogs. You do such a structured and clear presentation.😊 Thank you!! You don't ramble or get out of character or teaching mode. This is a true gift. You are destined to go far in your chosen career, in my opinion, as you are helping sooooo many frustrated dog owners who are not getting complete information in a simple way like you deliver. You aren't selling gimmicks. I wish you the very best in 2024, and don't ever change your style. Its PERFECT. You are pleasant, intelligent, calming, articulate, fun-loving, frank, truthful and caring! And much more. Dogs and dog owners are blessed to have you share your insight and experience! ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for always showing a dog that is in the process of learning as well. Can’t tell you how much it helps for a visual learner like myself. I could watch these all day
I have followed and watched a lot of balanced trainers over the last 8 years, that’s how long I have had my very well behaved Gsd, I can honestly say this is one of the best video explaining positive and negative reinforcement. Keep up the good work Hamilton. Many thanks from Uk🙏🏻
I love how you keep it real. My dog is some much like arrow. He is thick headed and knows down, knows sit, and stay. But chooses to ignore when he wants to move along or whatever the reason. But I love that you said "turns out he knows, he is just being an idiot".
This is just what I needed for todays training! I love how you explain the psychology behind both the human and the dog this helps me understand things way better and it definitely has advanced the training sessions I have with my dog. Again can’t thank you enough for all of this golden advice! You are amazing!
Miles, you are an extremely intelligent young man. I am 70 years old and I am still learning so. I sure thank you for helping this old lady out. I got a new Rottweiler puppy 3 weeks ago and at the well check up vet visit there was an issue. I contacted the breeder and she said to bring the puppy back. The puppy was sold on a contract. I told her I was keeping the little guy. She ask me if I would bring him back so she could see him. I did, she seen the issue and told me to pick another puppy. I told her no I was keeping him. She gave me another puppy anyway. Now I have two 11 week old puppies. So your help is very valuable and appreciated right now.
The explanations, as usual is amazing. I love how you give insights- that’s totally teaching - not just telling us what to do. The explanations helps us understand what to do and why we are doing things, and vice versa in regards to the dogs.. Great video, as usual!
Great advice, I stumbled upon your channel recently when I was looking for a channel where I could relate to the methods, well here we are, I've watched pretty much all your content and I have found it super helpful whilst in the critical stage of training my German Shepherd (5.5 months old). We are out on walks daily now with the loose leash and no reactivity. I have a very happy calm dog...So thank you for the time you've given so freely to make these videos....
@@hamiltondogtraining thank you, I found also, patience, consistency and understanding goes a long way too, its as much how we react/behave as dog owners/guardians that can affect a dog's temperament too ... Its an ongoing process!!
I always preferred to teach my dog visual cues so that I could control them at a distance. But this is a great reminder to keep that up with my current dog
I really love the way you explain and show. I find your personal approach really enlightening, like it just clicks better than when I watch other trainers. Question, when showing reps of down with Aarow, you started breaking up the downs with sit and place but I never saw you mark/reward place but you did with the sit. I was curious why that is? Also, I've never seen the test to see if your dog knows a command by making sure to remove all other gesture/lure types of things. I have really great obedience in the back yard, damn impressive to be honest. I feel like I could compete with him but in distractions it's a very different story. I've known that somehow I'm failing and have tried to use both positive and negative reinforcements without much success so I've just leveled up the consequences and I believe I've been unknowingly unfair and too aggressive. As a result, I feel like I've created high levels of frustration and distrust. So that's my main focus at the moment, working relationship and trust and trying to learn to be more calm and fair. Barking is one of the biggest things we are working to correct. I'm allowing him to bark when he thinks he needs to, giving it a moment and then trying to get him to stop. Otherwise he will just bark and bark. I am unsure how to force that to stop/hold him accountable. With a sit or similar behavior, I can use leash pressure directionally but I can't really hold his mouth shut because I'm not the devil lol. "Quiet" seems to be a different approach?
Have you done a video on preventing a leashed dog from bolting in and out of doorways? I bring my dog to work at a pet grooming and boarding place, so there are many distractions. I am tired of getting my hand bashed into doorways! Thanks for your videos! They are so helpful!
Is there anywhere to let him just run around somewhere before you go to put a leash on him? Sounds like a dog with a lot of pent-up energy and he gets super excited about the leash coming on and doesn't understand that a leash coming on does not mean we get excited(excitement is not a good thing in the dog world). Practice simply putting on the leash calmly and getting to the door without having the fuss before you ever even try to go out the door. Truthfully speaking there is not one piece of information that's going to help you because there's a lot going on with your dog and several things need addressed before simply getting him to stop being chaos on leash. Sometimes it's about saying I've had enough, knock it off! But it has to be believable to the dog. He needs to believe that you mean business.
@pittymama4500 he leashes up fine in the house, it''s when it's time to leave his run area. I have acreage, so the dog run is not right out the back door. I walk him to and from the run on a leash. I can let him drag a long light rope to step on, but it gets so muddy.
@pittymama4500 the run is where he runs. It's a fenced area about 30'x70'. He gets time morning and evening about 30 minutes each. He gets daily walks and training sessions. He is 15 months. I've had him about 6 weeks.
@@deanne.m.sanderson do you know what breed or breeds he is and is he normally a high energy dog? Also, with can you breed that is not generally a lazy dog and a high-energy dog especially really needs a big open field to be able to run around on because having just a run for an hour a day is nothing for those dogs that need to burn up that energy. If they continue to build up the energy you're going to start having a dog that is very anxious, destroying things and chewing up stuff, won't be able to settle and constantly on alert. That's no way for a dog to live though, just like somebody with anxiety doesn't like to live with anxiety. They can't thrive when they aren't fulfilled. Thats when you get that crazy chaos on the leash because they just can't help themselves. Also you have to be sure to teach your dog leash pressure because they don't automatically know what you're doing with that rope and what it means. The daily walks is great but sometimes it's just not getting that fast twitch energy out of their muscles. There are just so many variables in telling you what's going on at the other end of the leash and the easiest route to fixing it. Meant a lot of that depends on what kind of dog and that individual dogs energy level
Aloha, Miles. great videos and I am trying to apply/modify them as I am in a wheelchair. ie hard to do fast turns, give timely rewards, maintain a loose lease as I am pushing on my chair, etc. Suggestions?
@hamiltondogtraining The way you explain things is fantastic, it's tied together a heap of other explanations I've seen from other dog training channels. Do you take international enrolments in your online training?
amazing and analytical video. I want to ask you when to you use the prong collar? does this have to do with the breed or with the character of the dog?
Great video. Quick question for you…Would you or should you also use negative reinforcement or pressure to crate train a dog, he’s almost 2 and hates the crate. I try to throw in treats inside the cage and he barely wants to reach in to grab treats.
Yes, you can use -R to get the dog in the crate. Combine it with +R (in the form of praise, affection, food, or play) once the dog is comfortable going in and out.
my newest doggy is another rescue who was in the kennels for 5 months they did some training in there she could sit and paw lol so i tested her iv been training her in my house and driveway she can verbal sit stay and come down i need to show and heel she thinks is sit by my side so kinda oki but i need her to learn heel when im walking so she does not keep stopping but can heel on the move
I love your videos and how you teach. My mountain cur does not feel obligated to jump in the car when I tell him to. It takes several, 4-8 requests before he jumps in (he rides in the cargo area of my Forester). He’s athletic and there is no physical reason why he can’t jump in. He just looks at me like “what do you want me to do?” He enjoys car rides, it takes us to good places like parks, so it’s not that he doesn’t want to get it. He gets excited when I say “let’s go for a ride”, but then we have to go through this frustrating routine. How can I make him feel obligated to jump in when I tell him to?
Give him the cue “in the car” or whatever you use, give him a few seconds, then negativity reinforce the behavior by making directional pressure on the leash into the car, then release the pressure and praise once he’s in the car.
@@hamiltondogtraining Thank you. The negative reinforcement with directional pressure is making a difference. We are not to the point where it's an automatic response, but we are getting there!
What if my dog ignores me whenever he wants to get to the female in heat which is like 25-50 metre away? Is it possible to have the dog listens to me when encounter such scenario?
Would negative reinforcement also be: taking away the dollar to get the person to put their seat belt on? Realizing that they don’t get the dollar until it comes on.
That would actually be negative punishment! -P = Removing something to decrease the frequency of a behavior. In this example, you’d be removing (or withholding) the dollar, thus punishing the behavior of not wearing the seatbelt. This would be the same as you withholding the dog’s treat when you told them to down but they sat.
Dogs don't generalize that well and I find it important to back up the criteria in a novel environment. Dialing back to R+ in new environment I find to be helpful more so than adding leash pressure. The dogs thinks I"I understand the command in the back yard with all its familiar smells and surroundings, but not at the busy park". Stepping back to help the dog and assessing whether the command is bullet proof and the dog is blowing me off versus the dog really not completely understanding the command in a novel (new) environment can be a gray area. Assessing the dog's arousal state also important. Are they dialed into me? Can I have them do a simple hand touch command in a arousing environment? (the first thing I taught my pup). Knowing the dog's head space is important too.
In my experience there is nothing more effective than pressure when a dog is overtstimulated. A correction can absolutley get a dog to focus and calm down a bit in those situations, provided that the dog knows what the correction means
If my dog is in a new environment and still learning and learning to generalize, I help them. With my dogs I don't like to do nagging corrections especially if I realize its not overt disobedience versus not understanding what he is being asked to do due to a new environment or highly aroused.. A correction can actually increase the stimulation. In the end, know your dog and be humble about the training is all I am saying.@@BigBADSTUFF69
My dogs recall is brilliant except when he catches the scent of deer in forests and woodland, I don't think he's ignoring me. I don't think he hears me
yeah when a dog sees something they want they get tunnel vision. Thats why corrections are valuable and particularly the ecollar for recall. It really snaps them out of their fixation.
@BigBADSTUFF69 I just keep him on a long line in forests,he gets loads of time off lead , just in his husky genes , not convinced he should be punished with an electric shock for the way his genetics have programmed him , but obviously I can't allow him for safety reasons to chase so I meet him half way by playing loads of safe hunting games with him , I can honestly say I find it a dilemma my gut tells me we shouldn't breed genetically programmed dogs to live in the average household? My dog is a rescue ,I do my very best to meet his needs , he seems very happy and content , but his prey drive was unbelievable. I do seem to have calmed it with the games we play, so hopefully, his instinct is satisfied to some degree, I would add. I'm not totally opposed to the e-collar ? I wouldn't want to use it, but in the right hands, I could see that it could be beneficial to the dog ? The problem is that it would just be so abused in the wrong hands
He’s a very hyper over the edge Border Collie, but very smart and loves to work but always and I mean always needs a ball in his mouth so that is what he’s looking for
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
Miles, you are such a talented educator! I am so glad to have found your videos. I share them daily with other dog owners and social media groups on training reactive dogs. You do such a structured and clear presentation.😊 Thank you!!
You don't ramble or get out of character or teaching mode. This is a true gift. You are destined to go far in your chosen career, in my opinion, as you are helping sooooo many frustrated dog owners who are not getting complete information in a simple way like you deliver. You aren't selling gimmicks. I wish you the very best in 2024, and don't ever change your style. Its PERFECT. You are pleasant, intelligent, calming, articulate, fun-loving, frank, truthful and caring! And much more. Dogs and dog owners are blessed to have you share your insight and experience! ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Your method of knowledge transfer to us humble nonprofessional dog trainers is so spot on and fun to watch. THANK YOU for the detailed break-downs. 🐾
Thank you for always showing a dog that is in the process of learning as well. Can’t tell you how much it helps for a visual learner like myself. I could watch these all day
I have followed and watched a lot of balanced trainers over the last 8 years, that’s how long I have had my very well behaved Gsd, I can honestly say this is one of the best video explaining positive and negative reinforcement.
Keep up the good work Hamilton.
Many thanks from Uk🙏🏻
You break the training down so well for us mere mortal dog owners, thank you!
The best free training video ever. Thanks universe I found you.
Underrated trainer. Definitely one of the best on YT. I hate to say "dog" trainer but more like "dog handler" trainer.
I love how you keep it real. My dog is some much like arrow. He is thick headed and knows down, knows sit, and stay. But chooses to ignore when he wants to move along or whatever the reason. But I love that you said "turns out he knows, he is just being an idiot".
Ayeeee you've been on a roll with these vids lately! Thanks so much ❤
You are so amazing! Thank you, love the way you explain things!
Great video. Well articulated
This is sooooo helpful!! Thank you!
This is just what I needed for todays training! I love how you explain the psychology behind both the human and the dog this helps me understand things way better and it definitely has advanced the training sessions I have with my dog. Again can’t thank you enough for all of this golden advice! You are amazing!
Miles, you are an extremely intelligent young man. I am 70 years old and I am still learning so. I sure thank you for helping this old lady out. I got a new Rottweiler puppy 3 weeks ago and at the well check up vet visit there was an issue. I contacted the breeder and she said to bring the puppy back. The puppy was sold on a contract. I told her I was keeping the little guy. She ask me if I would bring him back so she could see him. I did, she seen the issue and told me to pick another puppy. I told her no I was keeping him. She gave me another puppy anyway. Now I have two 11 week old puppies. So your help is very valuable and appreciated right now.
Very helpful video.
You are a brilliant teacher. Outstanding. Thankyou!
This video is very helpful! Thank you!
So clear. I love your videos and I love the way you explain. Keep up the good work.
OMG. You're right! Why didn't I think of this? Thanks for this simple, clear method.
Great trainer with great explanations. Many useful tips. Thanks!
Beautiful explanation of positive and negative reinforcement.
Thank you for sharing this information. Very helpful 😊
Thanks again, for this informative video
Really great advice and super insightful. Thank you for taking the time to give such a detailed explanation as usual.
Great advice as usual, thanks
Honestly, the best channel for dog training out there!!!! Well done and thanks a lot for all the content and amazing communication 🫶🏻
Your videos and explanations are brilliant! Thank you!
The explanations, as usual is amazing. I love how you give insights- that’s totally teaching - not just telling us what to do. The explanations helps us understand what to do and why we are doing things, and vice versa in regards to the dogs.. Great video, as usual!
Thank you so much for this video!
Great video, thank you so much
Stoked more uploads!! Yewww 🤙🏼
Thank your!
Great advice, I stumbled upon your channel recently when I was looking for a channel where I could relate to the methods, well here we are, I've watched pretty much all your content and I have found it super helpful whilst in the critical stage of training my German Shepherd (5.5 months old). We are out on walks daily now with the loose leash and no reactivity. I have a very happy calm dog...So thank you for the time you've given so freely to make these videos....
I love hearing this. Cudos to you for being a proactive owner 💪
@@hamiltondogtraining thank you, I found also, patience, consistency and understanding goes a long way too, its as much how we react/behave as dog owners/guardians that can affect a dog's temperament too ... Its an ongoing process!!
I always preferred to teach my dog visual cues so that I could control them at a distance.
But this is a great reminder to keep that up with my current dog
Wow thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills awesome
I love these training videos! I can’t thank you enough.
Thanks. Will try this out on my very wilfull GSD
I really love the way you explain and show. I find your personal approach really enlightening, like it just clicks better than when I watch other trainers. Question, when showing reps of down with Aarow, you started breaking up the downs with sit and place but I never saw you mark/reward place but you did with the sit. I was curious why that is? Also, I've never seen the test to see if your dog knows a command by making sure to remove all other gesture/lure types of things. I have really great obedience in the back yard, damn impressive to be honest. I feel like I could compete with him but in distractions it's a very different story. I've known that somehow I'm failing and have tried to use both positive and negative reinforcements without much success so I've just leveled up the consequences and I believe I've been unknowingly unfair and too aggressive. As a result, I feel like I've created high levels of frustration and distrust. So that's my main focus at the moment, working relationship and trust and trying to learn to be more calm and fair. Barking is one of the biggest things we are working to correct. I'm allowing him to bark when he thinks he needs to, giving it a moment and then trying to get him to stop. Otherwise he will just bark and bark. I am unsure how to force that to stop/hold him accountable. With a sit or similar behavior, I can use leash pressure directionally but I can't really hold his mouth shut because I'm not the devil lol. "Quiet" seems to be a different approach?
Have you done a video on preventing a leashed dog from bolting in and out of doorways? I bring my dog to work at a pet grooming and boarding place, so there are many distractions. I am tired of getting my hand bashed into doorways! Thanks for your videos! They are so helpful!
Good idea! I’ll make that video and post it next Monday
Great video. I would love to see the same training on a dog who imitates Tigger when on the leash or when I'm trying to leash up.
Is there anywhere to let him just run around somewhere before you go to put a leash on him? Sounds like a dog with a lot of pent-up energy and he gets super excited about the leash coming on and doesn't understand that a leash coming on does not mean we get excited(excitement is not a good thing in the dog world). Practice simply putting on the leash calmly and getting to the door without having the fuss before you ever even try to go out the door. Truthfully speaking there is not one piece of information that's going to help you because there's a lot going on with your dog and several things need addressed before simply getting him to stop being chaos on leash. Sometimes it's about saying I've had enough, knock it off! But it has to be believable to the dog. He needs to believe that you mean business.
@pittymama4500 he leashes up fine in the house, it''s when it's time to leave his run area. I have acreage, so the dog run is not right out the back door. I walk him to and from the run on a leash. I can let him drag a long light rope to step on, but it gets so muddy.
@@deanne.m.sanderson how often does he get out of the run and how long?
@pittymama4500 the run is where he runs. It's a fenced area about 30'x70'. He gets time morning and evening about 30 minutes each. He gets daily walks and training sessions. He is 15 months. I've had him about 6 weeks.
@@deanne.m.sanderson do you know what breed or breeds he is and is he normally a high energy dog? Also, with can you breed that is not generally a lazy dog and a high-energy dog especially really needs a big open field to be able to run around on because having just a run for an hour a day is nothing for those dogs that need to burn up that energy. If they continue to build up the energy you're going to start having a dog that is very anxious, destroying things and chewing up stuff, won't be able to settle and constantly on alert. That's no way for a dog to live though, just like somebody with anxiety doesn't like to live with anxiety. They can't thrive when they aren't fulfilled. Thats when you get that crazy chaos on the leash because they just can't help themselves. Also you have to be sure to teach your dog leash pressure because they don't automatically know what you're doing with that rope and what it means. The daily walks is great but sometimes it's just not getting that fast twitch energy out of their muscles. There are just so many variables in telling you what's going on at the other end of the leash and the easiest route to fixing it. Meant a lot of that depends on what kind of dog and that individual dogs energy level
Aloha, Miles. great videos and I am trying to apply/modify them as I am in a wheelchair. ie hard to do fast turns, give timely rewards, maintain a loose lease as I am pushing on my chair, etc. Suggestions?
@hamiltondogtraining The way you explain things is fantastic, it's tied together a heap of other explanations I've seen from other dog training channels. Do you take international enrolments in your online training?
Just good ❤🎉!
Wonderful info! How would I apply this to train not barking at other dogs while on a deck? Thank you
amazing and analytical video. I want to ask you when to you use the prong collar? does this have to do with the breed or with the character of the dog?
I like using the prong collar in the beginning of training then transitioning to the e-collar.
My dog is listening to this I can only see the back of his head. His ears keep pricking up I suspect he understands the whole video 😂
great video.
I'm one of your Fans.
If you enjoy his channel, shield k9 has a very similar style and has loads of good information.
Haz is the man!
Great video. Quick question for you…Would you or should you also use negative reinforcement or pressure to crate train a dog, he’s almost 2 and hates the crate. I try to throw in treats inside the cage and he barely wants to reach in to grab treats.
Yes, you can use -R to get the dog in the crate. Combine it with +R (in the form of praise, affection, food, or play) once the dog is comfortable going in and out.
I keep watching you vids and can't figure out why you do the chirp thing? Is there a video where you explain? Thanks again for everything 😊
my newest doggy is another rescue who was in the kennels for 5 months they did some training in there she could sit and paw lol
so i tested her iv been training her in my house and driveway
she can verbal sit stay and come
down i need to show and heel she thinks is sit by my side
so kinda oki but i need her to learn heel when im walking so she does not keep stopping but can heel on the move
I love your videos and how you teach. My mountain cur does not feel obligated to jump in the car when I tell him to. It takes several, 4-8 requests before he jumps in (he rides in the cargo area of my Forester). He’s athletic and there is no physical reason why he can’t jump in. He just looks at me like “what do you want me to do?” He enjoys car rides, it takes us to good places like parks, so it’s not that he doesn’t want to get it. He gets excited when I say “let’s go for a ride”, but then we have to go through this frustrating routine. How can I make him feel obligated to jump in when I tell him to?
Give him the cue “in the car” or whatever you use, give him a few seconds, then negativity reinforce the behavior by making directional pressure on the leash into the car, then release the pressure and praise once he’s in the car.
@@hamiltondogtraining Thank you. The negative reinforcement with directional pressure is making a difference. We are not to the point where it's an automatic response, but we are getting there!
Would like info on training... couldn't play video
What's the "chup" vocal by the trainer for?
It’s a reward marker.
What leash is that?
What is the technique to learn your dog to come when you ask him? Is there a technique comform you learn the dog down?
What if my dog ignores me whenever he wants to get to the female in heat which is like 25-50 metre away? Is it possible to have the dog listens to me when encounter such scenario?
hell no, there is nothing that will keep a dog away from a dog in heat. You need a physical barrier, their brains get scrambled with hormones.
It's the opposite for me. My dog is extremely obedient outdoors, but indoors he will not respond the same way.
yeah when my GSP was a puppy I used more ecollar corrections indoors more than out
Great example of Jekyll and Hyde reinforcement. This isn’t teaching anything. Punishment aka “pressure”
age makes a huge difference i think
I would love to see what the negative reinforcement is for “come”.
ecollar works wonder for this
Would negative reinforcement also be: taking away the dollar to get the person to put their seat belt on? Realizing that they don’t get the dollar until it comes on.
That would actually be negative punishment!
-P = Removing something to decrease the frequency of a behavior.
In this example, you’d be removing (or withholding) the dollar, thus punishing the behavior of not wearing the seatbelt.
This would be the same as you withholding the dog’s treat when you told them to down but they sat.
Dogs don't generalize that well and I find it important to back up the criteria in a novel environment. Dialing back to R+ in new environment I find to be helpful more so than adding leash pressure. The dogs thinks I"I understand the command in the back yard with all its familiar smells and surroundings, but not at the busy park". Stepping back to help the dog and assessing whether the command is bullet proof and the dog is blowing me off versus the dog really not completely understanding the command in a novel (new) environment can be a gray area. Assessing the dog's arousal state also important. Are they dialed into me? Can I have them do a simple hand touch command in a arousing environment? (the first thing I taught my pup). Knowing the dog's head space is important too.
Agreed! If your dog is more wrong than right, you need to take a step back
In my experience there is nothing more effective than pressure when a dog is overtstimulated. A correction can absolutley get a dog to focus and calm down a bit in those situations, provided that the dog knows what the correction means
If my dog is in a new environment and still learning and learning to generalize, I help them. With my dogs I don't like to do nagging corrections especially if I realize its not overt disobedience versus not understanding what he is being asked to do due to a new environment or highly aroused.. A correction can actually increase the stimulation. In the end, know your dog and be humble about the training is all I am saying.@@BigBADSTUFF69
My dogs recall is brilliant except when he catches the scent of deer in forests and woodland, I don't think he's ignoring me. I don't think he hears me
yeah when a dog sees something they want they get tunnel vision. Thats why corrections are valuable and particularly the ecollar for recall. It really snaps them out of their fixation.
@BigBADSTUFF69 I just keep him on a long line in forests,he gets loads of time off lead , just in his husky genes , not convinced he should be punished with an electric shock for the way his genetics have programmed him , but obviously I can't allow him for safety reasons to chase so I meet him half way by playing loads of safe hunting games with him , I can honestly say I find it a dilemma my gut tells me we shouldn't breed genetically programmed dogs to live in the average household? My dog is a rescue ,I do my very best to meet his needs , he seems very happy and content , but his prey drive was unbelievable. I do seem to have calmed it with the games we play, so hopefully, his instinct is satisfied to some degree, I would add. I'm not totally opposed to the e-collar ? I wouldn't want to use it, but in the right hands, I could see that it could be beneficial to the dog ? The problem is that it would just be so abused in the wrong hands
He’s a very hyper over the edge Border Collie, but very smart and loves to work but always and I mean always needs a ball in his mouth so that is what he’s looking for
I don’t wanna give treats
This video is desperately needed! Thank you.