Finally! I video that actually shows what it takes to get a hub off. Every video on TH-cam makes you think they just fall out! But that's not the case! Thank you!
Great video! You helped me get through mine yesterday. A little tip for anyone without a long enough prybar to stick between the lugs when you break the spindle nut loose - put your brake disc back on and stick a screwdriver into a ventilation slot and use that as a stop against the brake caliper bracket for when you give’r with the breaker bar.
Tip: if you've rounded off the 13mm 12 point bolts, hammer on a 1/2 inch socket. My dad went the wrong way and rounded one, so I converted 13mm into inches and it came up as .51 inches. So I hammered the 1/2 inch socket on and it worked fine. Pulled a new bolt out of the hub of an XJ Cherokee at the junk yard with a little PB Blaster and a breaker bar. Don't buy them, they're $6-10 and the junk yard owner told me it wasn't worth writing up the sale ticket, so I got it free. Also, you can rent a 36mm socket, torque wrench, and pitman arm/hub puller from AutoZone. I have a puller, so I just got the wrench and socket (my torque wrench goes to 150, and you need 175).
I would highly recommend putting the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads. And if your going through all that, why not replace the U-joints in the shafts? Thats what I'm going through right now!
Thanks again bud for that video! Used it to replace my axle ujoint. Come to find out, my hub bearing assembly has a metal to metal sound which i will be replacing next. Also, i tried looking for a video of yours on the replacement of the ball joints, if you have that i would greatly appreciate it! Thanks again for your helpful videos!
usually those 12 point bolts never come out in one piece without a fight.. once theyre out you can pull the hub and axle shaft right out together if theyre stuck in one piece and hammer them apart in the vice, the axle shaft will just slip back into the diff for reassembly
Thank you for another great video. I am planning to go over my front end and was wondering if I should replace the hub assembly as well. Is it something I should ‚just do‘ as I’m there anyway, or are there signs to tell if it’s bad and has to be replaced?
Do you have a video on how to do the rear? I know its quite a bit more complicated and you need to figure out how to separate the hub from the axle. Great videos, thanks
Now that it has been a few years since you did this install, are you satisfied with the Timkin hub? I am getting ready to do my 95 YJ, and order parts. I trust you opinion
I've been PB blasting every upcoming maintenance job I forsee. I've wasted alot of time with frozen bolts and rounding of heads. It's a bit discouraging to the inexperienced mechanic
Hey, could use your help on something: just got the old wheel hubs off but on the passenger side I accidentally pulled the axle out. Doesn’t seem to want to easily go back in… Am I doing something wrong? Assume that I can just keep spinning/wiggling it around until I find the right thread pattern and get it in place, right? Or do I have to do something more dramatic/drastic?
Just watched this th-cam.com/video/57yXs1vSBNA/w-d-xo.html and I think it’s possible my shift collar might have dropped. Let me open the back and check...
My hub assembly is stuck to my Knuckle. The axle is free and can be moved slightly forward and backwards. So far I have used copious amounts of PB blaster and have been hammering to back of the knuckle using the 13mm socket over the bolts. Any ideas from here?
Yeah. I talked with another who had the same issue. We finally got it. I’d try using something like a concrete chisel and strike the outside, where the hub mates with the knuckle. Strike on that edge all the way around the hub. You can also use some heat on that same area. Then back to striking the back of it. May take a few tries.
@@JeepSolid I used an air hammer on the edge of the hub. The process was spray PB on the hub and air hammer on the hub assembly from the side to get the hub assembly to spin.
+san379 Yeah, they can be really tough! I'd try hitting it with PB blaster over a few days. Really let it soak in, then try heating them up with a torch a few times. Good luck!
+JeepSolid +JeepSolid I'm having the same problem and ive been hitting it with PB and using heat and they aren't budging! Two of them rounded already too..
Have not had my 1993 YJ but my front hub looks like yours. I assumed it had tapered bearings since I thought that adjust locker for the nut was for setting the tapered wheel bearing? So my 1993 has sealed bearings? Is that why there is no dust cap? My Moto Metal wheels have no center cap and I had been looking for a dust cap for the hub?
Thanks, Under here right now. Rebuilding engine and transmission. A Little lull in parts coming. Seeing what fluids look like in front and rear differentials. Fluid is clean in front and like the manual says, 1/2" down from the top of the plug. Guess since the differential is not mounted level. However, there is no drain. Do you need to suck it out or remove front cover?
does anyone else lift the breaker/cheater bar rather then jumping on it? i only weight about 140 but can deadlift about 260lbs, so im almost double on lifting vs standing, have sheared off seized wheel lugs/studs before from lifting on a 3ft breaker bar
It was quite easy, aside from putting the backing plate on backward the first time and having to take the hub off again. Lol unfortunately still have play in the yoke in my rear diff. Gotta fix that before Betsy runs again.
The outer 'seal' isn't a true axle seal. It's more of a dust/debris cover. Keeps big chunks out. haha. They do make an aftermarket outer axle seal that will work on the dana 30 though. Here's an example amzn.to/2DbWRFE
Finally! I video that actually shows what it takes to get a hub off. Every video on TH-cam makes you think they just fall out! But that's not the case! Thank you!
So true!
Other videos make it seem parts are secured like lego when they are disassembling them.
Magic to fool you and me. Then when it doesn't work a lot of crying, "I don't understand!"
Great video! You helped me get through mine yesterday. A little tip for anyone without a long enough prybar to stick between the lugs when you break the spindle nut loose - put your brake disc back on and stick a screwdriver into a ventilation slot and use that as a stop against the brake caliper bracket for when you give’r with the breaker bar.
+Martin Mankins Great tip! I've used that method on a few other projects. Works well. 👍🏼
Just knocked this out thanks to your detailed video!! Thanks!! Wobble all gone.
from one enthusiast to the other you are the best DIY jeep guru on the webz right now seriously your saving me so much money haha
Cool! Thanks. Glad the videos help ya out.
Jeeps and motorcycles, best to do the work yourself.
Guess I just got lucky because I didn't have to use a hub puller or hammer on the bolts to break it free . Good video bud love to watch your stuff.
great video! one suggestion, replace the universal while you are in there!
Great tutorial. I’ll be following these instructions soon. Wheel bearings on my new (old) YJ are bad.
Cool! Glad it helpd
Tip: if you've rounded off the 13mm 12 point bolts, hammer on a 1/2 inch socket. My dad went the wrong way and rounded one, so I converted 13mm into inches and it came up as .51 inches. So I hammered the 1/2 inch socket on and it worked fine. Pulled a new bolt out of the hub of an XJ Cherokee at the junk yard with a little PB Blaster and a breaker bar. Don't buy them, they're $6-10 and the junk yard owner told me it wasn't worth writing up the sale ticket, so I got it free.
Also, you can rent a 36mm socket, torque wrench, and pitman arm/hub puller from AutoZone. I have a puller, so I just got the wrench and socket (my torque wrench goes to 150, and you need 175).
I would highly recommend putting the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads. And if your going through all that, why not replace the U-joints in the shafts? Thats what I'm going through right now!
On the calipers never use grease! Only anti-seize on the bolts and caliper brackets...
Thanks so much! I feel confident in taking the project on now.
+gaiadruid Cool! Glad it helped! Let me know how the project goes. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Thanks for the specs and torque as you walked us through this. Very good.
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Thanks again bud for that video! Used it to replace my axle ujoint. Come to find out, my hub bearing assembly has a metal to metal sound which i will be replacing next. Also, i tried looking for a video of yours on the replacement of the ball joints, if you have that i would greatly appreciate it! Thanks again for your helpful videos!
I still need to make a ball joint video....
usually those 12 point bolts never come out in one piece without a fight.. once theyre out you can pull the hub and axle shaft right out together if theyre stuck in one piece and hammer them apart in the vice, the axle shaft will just slip back into the diff for reassembly
one of mine i had to take the axle out and take it apart at the fkin ujoint to get the fuck off,and threw it all in the trash...
This is the first video I saw of yours.. still gonna do this one day lol
Thank you! Great detail, tips, etc.!
Thanks! More coming your way ;)
Wow, awesome video! Now I know my hub is bad & how to change it, thanks so much.
Randy Green Hey! You're welcome. Glad it helped ya out.
Thank you for another great video. I am planning to go over my front end and was wondering if I should replace the hub assembly as well. Is it something I should ‚just do‘ as I’m there anyway, or are there signs to tell if it’s bad and has to be replaced?
@jeepsolid Is it possible to put newer model yj hubs (1 1/8") over the older ones (3/4")? I'm having caliper bracket and rotor size problems
Do you have a video on how to do the rear? I know its quite a bit more complicated and you need to figure out how to separate the hub from the axle. Great videos, thanks
Sorry, Sam, I do not at this time. But, that's a great video idea.
Now that it has been a few years since you did this install, are you satisfied with the Timkin hub? I am getting ready to do my 95 YJ, and order parts. I trust you opinion
Still running the same hubs. No issues 👍
How have your hubs held up? I’m deciding between these and the skf. Mine made it to 300k and the drivers is finally talking to me! Thank you!
Still running great 👍
thank you! @@JeepSolid
that big nut needs to be broke loose while the jeep is still on the ground. You will be safe to do that and it will help getting that sucker off!
I've been PB blasting every upcoming maintenance job I forsee. I've wasted alot of time with frozen bolts and rounding of heads. It's a bit discouraging to the inexperienced mechanic
It’s good to plan ahead like that!
I put painter tape on my studs.. bc I'm like that.
Hey, could use your help on something: just got the old wheel hubs off but on the passenger side I accidentally pulled the axle out. Doesn’t seem to want to easily go back in… Am I doing something wrong? Assume that I can just keep spinning/wiggling it around until I find the right thread pattern and get it in place, right? Or do I have to do something more dramatic/drastic?
Just watched this th-cam.com/video/57yXs1vSBNA/w-d-xo.html and I think it’s possible my shift collar might have dropped. Let me open the back and check...
My hub assembly is stuck to my Knuckle. The axle is free and can be moved slightly forward and backwards. So far I have used copious amounts of PB blaster and have been hammering to back of the knuckle using the 13mm socket over the bolts. Any ideas from here?
Yeah. I talked with another who had the same issue. We finally got it. I’d try using something like a concrete chisel and strike the outside, where the hub mates with the knuckle. Strike on that edge all the way around the hub. You can also use some heat on that same area. Then back to striking the back of it. May take a few tries.
@@JeepSolid I used an air hammer on the edge of the hub. The process was spray PB on the hub and air hammer on the hub assembly from the side to get the hub assembly to spin.
Excellent video! Very helpful.
Thank you. Glad it helped!
Right welcome. I'm having a hell of a time getting the caliperback on, lining then up with the bolts
in canada thoes 12point bolts are seized solid like old manifold bolts ..
+san379 Yeah, they can be really tough! I'd try hitting it with PB blaster over a few days. Really let it soak in, then try heating them up with a torch a few times. Good luck!
JeepSolid angle grinder the bolts off and buy bolts?..grade 8 bolts
+JeepSolid +JeepSolid I'm having the same problem and ive been hitting it with PB and using heat and they aren't budging! Two of them rounded already too..
+Mosin Master impact driver
cut them off once the heads are off then hit it with a 2 lbs sledge and 3 ft bar and it comes off
Budget Brakes said, "You don't need to grease the hubs on a 97 Jeep W Sport, they're sealed." I doubt that. Great Video and thank you for the info!
Thanks!
I broke my breaker bar doing that.. lol had to go to a 3/4" bar.
Good job
Have not had my 1993 YJ but my front hub looks like yours. I assumed it had tapered bearings since I thought that adjust locker for the nut was for setting the tapered wheel bearing? So my 1993 has sealed bearings? Is that why there is no dust cap? My Moto Metal wheels have no center cap and I had been looking for a dust cap for the hub?
+RIPSAW Yeah, if it's a Dana 30 front axle, then it should be very similar. Sealed hub. Mine doesn't have a dust cover either.
Thanks, Under here right now. Rebuilding engine and transmission. A Little lull in parts coming. Seeing what fluids look like in front and rear differentials. Fluid is clean in front and like the manual says, 1/2" down from the top of the plug. Guess since the differential is not mounted level. However, there is no drain. Do you need to suck it out or remove front cover?
Yeah, you can pump it out, but I find it's hard to get it all. If I'm gonna do the job, I want it all out, so I take the cover off.
Cool!!!! I love your videos!
does anyone else lift the breaker/cheater bar rather then jumping on it? i only weight about 140 but can deadlift about 260lbs, so im almost double on lifting vs standing, have sheared off seized wheel lugs/studs before from lifting on a 3ft breaker bar
the hub is an assembly that's why it wont come apart
Yep. Sealed unit.
What do you recommend, 3/8 or 1/2 drive, standard or deep 13mm 12 pt socket?
On the hub nut? 1/2" is better. Just standard is fine.
Good job, good video
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing!
Please JeepSolid see this and respond. How do you know what the torque specs are
Info wasn't in Haynes. Had to research online.
google.com
About to repeat this process.
+Andy Cocchia Repeat? Last set wore out/failed? What brand?
JeepSolid I meant repeat what you did lol. I bought Moog though. So far I've gotten my hub off and going for the grease.
So, how'd it go?
It was quite easy, aside from putting the backing plate on backward the first time and having to take the hub off again. Lol unfortunately still have play in the yoke in my rear diff. Gotta fix that before Betsy runs again.
good job
+DEMERAL BRANDON Thanks!
Perfect
What outer axle seals are those ???
The outer 'seal' isn't a true axle seal. It's more of a dust/debris cover. Keeps big chunks out. haha. They do make an aftermarket outer axle seal that will work on the dana 30 though. Here's an example amzn.to/2DbWRFE
JeepSolid they make an outer seal but need to change the passenger axle to a tj axle but thanks !
JeepSolid ok I see what you’re saying
Easy my ass
Yeah, can be a pain.