Thanks guys for this, over this past weekend I did this with no problems Out of everything, I’d say the Cotter pin was the most problematic. Not hard at all total of 8 hours and only intermediate knowledge.
I wish I could meet you all. You guys are always so upbeat, everything is explained in detail and you make it fun! Also, Sue if you read this, I love your hair and your accent! Marry me! 😍
This doesn't look like my '93 Sierra.. control arms are stamped vs tubular, and I see no coil spring here. But THANKS for a great video. I'm curious about the 'offset washers that should be re-installed facing downi and if these affect camber. I've got to replace upper and lower control arms and, though know I'll need an alignment, hope to keep it about where it was.. also to learn about how it's set.
Anyone that does this make sure you buy the knock out tool to punch out the factory holes where the bolt goes thru upper control arm other wise you won't be able to align it trust me I learned hard way
@@natandelgado398 where the A arm camber bolts go through the frame u may have to. Punch the hole out more it's Really not as bad as it sounds they made it so can if needed
How did you hang the brake line as there is only one hole left open on the upper ball joint. I find it odd that the kit comes with two nuts and two bolts, yet only one open hole.
I like the fact that they're clearly using a rust best truck too. I appreciate a good "How-to" vid, but some of these guys are filming from CA or down south where the cars never get rusty. Nof hating, just jealous 😂
Not really, the rigid part if the brake line is in the water of removing the upper control arm ball joint nut. I tried to bypass that and it didn't work. Plus, if you're doing the upper, might as well change the lower balljoint at the same time.
Upper Ball Joint castle nut is 26mm. Worth it to get the ratcheting wrench on that too, very hard to reach zone. I've got an '89 Sierra rusted as hell so the cotter pin broke off inside the castle nut, but was able to get a hex shank 5/32 drill bit on extensions coming from under the frame in order to drill it out. Lots of oil, it's gonna want to snap the bit. Anyway got my castle nut off with a 1" (just about .02 too small and was a pain but decent in a pinch) but ordered the 26mm on Mcmaster to tighten it properly. Couldn't find this info anywhere even tried screen grabs from beginning and the end of the video, no luck. Also grease nut on the ball joint is 7mm.
The four wheel drive is different dimensions. The 3500 two wheel drive is the same dimensions as the 1500 but the larger 3500 upper ball joint won't fit on the spindle (would have to modified).
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
That’s a great instructional video! Going to easily bolt up them upper control arms now!
Great job! Kept it positive and very easy to pause and follow.
Thanks guys for this, over this past weekend I did this with no problems Out of everything, I’d say the Cotter pin was the most problematic. Not hard at all total of 8 hours and only intermediate knowledge.
I wish I could meet you all. You guys are always so upbeat, everything is explained in detail and you make it fun! Also, Sue if you read this, I love your hair and your accent! Marry me! 😍
Can you add tool list to your videos. Hate scanning to a new scene to see what size wrench I need 🤣🤣
How did you do this without using a single curse word 🤣🤣
Maybe cause he’s a mechanic not a “let me save money DIY dad”
Doesn’t look that difficult But I’ll count them in case.
@@tallmex96 granted he edited this to 9 mins I did passenger side took me 4 hours Being that it was my first time
This doesn't look like my '93 Sierra.. control arms are stamped vs tubular, and I see no coil spring here. But THANKS for a great video. I'm curious about the 'offset washers that should be re-installed facing downi and if these affect camber. I've got to replace upper and lower control arms and, though know I'll need an alignment, hope to keep it about where it was.. also to learn about how it's set.
+@chrissupport Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Anyone that does this make sure you buy the knock out tool to punch out the factory holes where the bolt goes thru upper control arm other wise you won't be able to align it trust me I learned hard way
Can you explain this a little bit more? I think I have this issue to align it.
@@natandelgado398 where the A arm camber bolts go through the frame u may have to. Punch the hole out more it's Really not as bad as it sounds they made it so can if needed
How did you hang the brake line as there is only one hole left open on the upper ball joint. I find it odd that the kit comes with two nuts and two bolts, yet only one open hole.
When doing that job do I need to take tension off the torsion bar first
MY question is, is removing the caliper really necessary?
Yea, let’s not forget about spraying all the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil prior to the job.
verical?
Helpful vid new sub👍🏻
I like the fact that they're clearly using a rust best truck too. I appreciate a good "How-to" vid, but some of these guys are filming from CA or down south where the cars never get rusty. Nof hating, just jealous 😂
“You do you boo boo” 😂 I’m off here
Great video
Great video! Is there a video for the lower control arm? Or are they the same process? Thanks 😊
Do you have to grease anything on the control arms?
What size wrench was used to remove the ball joint nut?
I used a 1-1/16" wrench
I think the upper ball joint is a 18mm
Does this fit a 1988 gmc sierra slx 4x4? ...thanks
Is it possible to bypass removing the rotor & caliper? & still access the upper control arm
Not really, the rigid part if the brake line is in the water of removing the upper control arm ball joint nut. I tried to bypass that and it didn't work. Plus, if you're doing the upper, might as well change the lower balljoint at the same time.
Yes you can do it without removing caliper and brake components. Just support the lower control arm so the whole bottom assembly doesn't fall.
Is this the same process as 97 k2500?
what size wrench is needed to remove the upper ball joint nut thanks
Upper Ball Joint castle nut is 26mm. Worth it to get the ratcheting wrench on that too, very hard to reach zone. I've got an '89 Sierra rusted as hell so the cotter pin broke off inside the castle nut, but was able to get a hex shank 5/32 drill bit on extensions coming from under the frame in order to drill it out. Lots of oil, it's gonna want to snap the bit.
Anyway got my castle nut off with a 1" (just about .02 too small and was a pain but decent in a pinch) but ordered the 26mm on Mcmaster to tighten it properly.
Couldn't find this info anywhere even tried screen grabs from beginning and the end of the video, no luck.
Also grease nut on the ball joint is 7mm.
@@danielgaetani483 thank you!
Nice video!!
VEHRICLE
😂😂😂😂
What do I do if my upper control arm is rubbing against my shocks? I have a lift and that’s the upper control arm I have
You need different control arms . Shouod have come with your lift
What size is the lower bolt?????
Does any one know what a vehricle is ?
Can you put those arms on a c1500?
The four wheel drive is different dimensions. The 3500 two wheel drive is the same dimensions as the 1500 but the larger 3500 upper ball joint won't fit on the spindle (would have to modified).
What size is the lower bolt?
If you mean the castle nut, i think in another video he says 1”
i'm doing this to my veerkle.
Least rusty GM truck
Did you not have to release the tension from the torsion bar or am I doing way too much???
Torsion bar goes through lower A arm, so if you are doing the lower then yes you will need to
Oh noooooo 😟😟😟. You forgot to put the dust shield on!!! 😱😱😱
Forgot to mark the pins..
what is up with the rusty system wow that look like it needed to be sand blasted.
Northern truck, where they use salt on the roads to melt snow and ice
THE RUST....
Nvm lol
Great video.
+Warren Davis Davis Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ