Flite Test - Painting Foam Board - TIP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
- Painting foam board can be challenging. Here are a few tips for getting the best results when painting your foam board aircraft.
*DISCLAIMER*
HOT GLUE WILL NOT STICK TO MINWAX!
BE SURE TO GLUE YOUR AIRPLANE TOGETHER BEFORE APPLYING MINWAX.
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I don't know about airbrush and 'special' paint. What works for me is ordinary glue for wood (Elmer's glue, gorila glue...). Thin coat, and then after good drying - it can be painted with any spray (even acetone based!). What is more exciting, wood glue can be mixed with pigment for wals, or any other water based pigments. Plus, final coat over the paint - and it can be polished with paper towel to really glossy surfaces.
Okay, all paints add weight, but my method is simpler (I mean, available) and cheaper. Did not tried to add polyurethane over the paper covered foam, but direct contact with foam may disolve it (at least one brand I have).
Thank you :) this comment just helped me big time!
erica matty You welcome. Just press 'thumb up' to keep my previous coment on top - if it helps you, it may helps to other people too.
Helped me too! Cheers!
Thanks for this tip and did give you a thumbs up. Want to do some 1/35th scale zombie dioramas using foam board for the buildings and wondered how I was going to seal the paper/foam. Maybe you should come out with some how to videos.
Yes, good idea. Aside my other videos on my channel about quadcopters, 3D printing, electronic, programming, painting, and other zillion things... why not. Thank you!
I've been using airbrushes for years but this was probably the best most concise intro to airbrushing I've seen. Most experts use more technical lingo and expect the audience to catch up. You explained that in perfect laymans terms.
NOT
Thanks so much for the Minwax tip! Great stuff.
UK translations... Windex = Windowlene, Minwax = Ronseal Mattcoat Clear Varnish (not quick drying version)
lmao
Another good way to lay down camouflage lines is to stretch Silly Putty into a long thin strand and use it to shape the line. You can move the line around until you're happy , and then lightly press it into place. Add tape to cover the area you don't want painted. There's a lot of good tips from the scale modeling community. Thanks for the video.
If you add a stainless steel ball bearing to the jar, it will help keep the paint more liquid..
Lol
I am working on a couple of planes now. The main one is my A-10, 64mm 2 duct. I have modified for flaps and will be putting in retracts. Once finished it will be heavily altered from original. This paint video has cleared up a lot for me and I thank you for it. I have an air brush setup and will be using it to lay down the final design on my project. Thanks again for all the good info that you have passed on.
Great tips! I've done airbrushing on foam for non-rc aircraft but I have had another good trick when doing it. If do the coating you can actually use water as well to thin the paint. The amount of water depends on how thick of a paint you buy. Thats when its great to make small samples with the base paints to find that right mixture. I also found it to make cleaning the air brush easier.
final weight 116 lbs LOL! thanks for the info
lmao
Back in the day, I used shelf paper to make up stencils for painting. It uses a low tack that holds it down, but it releases easily and has less tendency to pull up lower layers. It also comes in rolls large enough for most projects. Assuming, of course, that it's still available. It has been some years.
@1:35 - Final Weight =116 lbs.
After 2 years that still cracks me up & never gets old.
Some of us miss Chad as well as David....how about a cameo appearance now and then?
+Haywood Jablomy ikr lmao
And old painting tip from the old days: instead of masking with masking tape, use freezer tape--it's doesn't have so much stick, so it won't pull up the paint underneath so much. Also, once the tape is down, run a fingernail along the edge, making sure it's tight to the surface, then mist lightly with a clear coat along the tape edge. Then shoot color, and pull the tape up (pulling back along itself to cut the paint sharply) before it cures completely.
Be meticulous. Freezer tape for a sharp edge, shoot colors light to dark, and let a layer cure before shooting another layer. Get a tack cloth, and use it before shooting.
Love the channel and the vids guys! As a Canadian with 34 years in full scale military a/c maintenance, I would love to see DeHavilland aircraft modeled in an affordable way. I'm a total R/C rookie but would love to see aircraft like the Chipmunk, Otter, Caribou and especially the Buffalo modeled. All amazing fliers that have stood the test of time.
Just throwing out ideas! Keep up the great and entertaining work.
Frank
great vid!!! if you don't use the minwax I found out that if you use light coats of paint from walmart, get some 400 grit or higher sand paper and sand the paint each coat until its slick enough for you!!! I have use this many time but I have only used solid layouts. The sand paper helps with all the over spray you get from holding the can so far away during each coat!!! Hope this helps some people, keep the planes coming.
The spatter is from not keeping your air flow on. If you stop air, then hit it again without cutting off the paint. You will get spatter. That is basically a disciplined learning curve to fix that issue.
Also, dry tip can cause an issue as well.
Also be careful with the windex. It has ammonia in it and can remove your chrome coat from the airbrush. Mainly the bowl type bushes.
Hi flitetest! If you want very soft lines for your camo, you can in fact use bluetac! I use it on plastic models, and it's great!
Robin
Thank you for the masking tape stencil idea!
Another tip that may help people with their paint jobs. After you finish your paint job, spray a lite coat of S C Johnson "Pledge Future Floor Finish" through your air brush over the paint job. It will preserve and protect the paint. Not my idea, found it on another forum and have used it and it works!
For a softer controlled edge, use cardboard templates. Makes for awesome camo!
I'm STILL looking for that plane!
I've just watched another FT video showing not polyurethane but polycrylic. This looks much simpler as you put the polyurethane directly onto the foam board without having to strip the paper.
I've been waiting for this ever since the teaser on the Spitfire vid! My first DTFB painting attempt on my FT Biplane resulted on with a few paper bubbles,,,not enough to ruin it,,,but I'm amazed how you were able to slather on the polyurethane with a brush and not draw up the paper! Sweet,,,now I can build my FT Spits!
Great show! You guys need to be on TV already!
Lunhill 12: That is an excellent method. I use it to great affect. Just a tip that I didn't know on my first attempt. Press the edges down FIRMLY. I had a lot of bleeding underneath. Do not use Play-Doh. Just don't. I know.
Windex - works great on glass also. Great vid! Very helpful tips on finishing.
Minwax makes a wipe on oil based polyurethane that doesn't go on too thick, has good control, and works beautifully. It comes in gloss or satin. Personally, I LOVE the stuff.
You can also use my favorite...Windshield washer fluid. The methyl alcohol in it work perfectly to thin cheap Walmart , Michaels or Hobby-Lobby acrylic paints. I use two parts paint and one part WWF...then strain it through cheesecloth by putting cheesecloth under lid of storage bottle....a VERY important step. Harbour Freight has a great dual action brush for cheap.......The tip about the standard minwax is priceless!..I use Waterbase clear polycrylic as tough , glossy last coat
Looking forward to building the Spitfire as my first scratch built! Thanks for the painting tips.
Thanks!
Wanted this episode since that first FT Fliers with a great paintjob.
BTW, there are tons of articles on painting tech on scale model forums too.
Nice video. Lot's of good information, Even for someone that thought they new a little bit about painting. thanks again.
No need to be shy about your cammo-job on the Spitfire: it had MANY different cammo liveries- I'm sure you nailed one of them, anyway!
Overall: BEAUTIFUL job!
Good to see Chad also presenting.
At about the 1:03 mark it is stated not to use the water base MinWax; I have used it on foam board several times with excellent results. Just do very light coats with a "foam brush" applicator; I usually do 3 light coats prior to painting. The water base dries very quickly and has practically no odor, just don't get much on the applicator and spread it thin and even.
I have used rubbing alcohol 70%-90% with good results. It works with epoxy too!
If you use spray paint..I strongly recommend a high pigment, works much better. Montana is great, I've used Ironlak and it works fantastic. Another tip*, don't use the cap that Ironlak comes with (Its a fat that sprays a lot of paint) use a more misting tip. NY fats works good enough and most common and cheap.
I could be wrong but i think its the ammonia in the windex that helps it dry faster.
Hola chicos espectacular muy bueno.
Les mando un saludo muy grande para todos desde Buenos Aires Argentina 😃👍👍.
Chad you are a goof HAHAHA, You cracked me up at the end, Another great video and very helpful info now I can paint my planes and the other guys at the field can quit ribbing me about my " paper planes". Thank you and keep up the great work
Chad ; You did a great job on your painting video! Thanks!
Your videos are awesome!
I had a hard time figuring out what i need to buy to build an foam board RC airplane, since i live in germany and we have no "foam board", from now on things will get funny:
Foam board is called "LEICHTSTOFFPLATTE"
and minwax is "PU-GIESSMASSE" i guess... correct me if i'm wrong here...
isn't our language beautyful? xD
Haha this is why you just don't see Germans playing romantic roles in movies.
from belgium and i can find foam board and minwax at our local DYI store
Awesome vid, thanks for taking the time to make this one!!!
Very thorough, easy to follow and all around excellent presentation. I was searching for exactly this for a naked foamie I love but can't stand the raw styro look and was afraid it would end up becoming a pile of goo...lol Thank you so much for this and great work.
Fantastic video Chad, was waiting for this one and enjoyed you sharing your knowledge with us. Thank you.
this is the episode I was waiting for,,hard finishing foamboard!
thanks!
Another great video guys
Three words: Zinsser Cover Stain! Oil base primer in a spray can, and you can find it everywhere. Seals out moisture, covers stains, and makes paint stick like glue to any surface...even shiny packing tape. Use a thin coat so paper doesn't bubble, and a second thin coat a few minutes later when first coat is dry to the touch. Five bucks a can, minutes to waterproof and prime your model, you can even sand it for a smooth finish. You can't beat it!
I've been waiting for this one great stuff, many useful tips. might start to look for an old airbrush. Here's a tip you want a little more dihedral ? Paint the top of the wing black and leave it in the sun. It will curle up quick. Watch how much you paint it.
Excellent. I had given up on my air brush " dual action" DOPF! Windex "Ahaaa"!
We'll be breakin out the old Paasche again after all.
awsome video. glad you addressed this subject. i really did not want to tape the entire plane up.
Good video Chad. An interesting introduction to spray painting.
If it is available in your area, I would recommend Blue "Painters Tape" it is designed to tack down well but is easier to remove than plain Masking tape... You can find it in most hardware stores at a good price, and many 3D printer companies also carry it (at outrageous prices).
hey you guys great videos, only have one idea with masking off your plane tape works great but for larger areas you might want to use "frisk film "you can Always get it at the hobby store and does not stick like a octopuss. airbrushers use it all the time.
Thanks for the suggestion to strain. I use the same paints and thinner, and while I haven't had an issue w/ solids in the paint yet, good to have a solution ready!. Come to think of it, I have the same airbrush too! :-)
thanks chad good tips i been look at starting this and i think you just gave me the inspiration
Brilliant tips! Great video, thanks!
Thats why you guys are the best! Thanks for the video.
Excellent tip.
If you are wonting a good airbrush use the Iwata HP-CS its the air brush i used in school. Its a grate airbrush if you are going to get into airbrushing your planes. One tip learn how to airbrush on sum thing flat first. Airbrushing on a 3D object is allot harder.
Try using drafting masking tape since it has lower adhesion and is therefore less likely to pull the first color off the model.
Nice video with lots of good info for painting.
But it's a bit unhelpful that you guys Flite Test keep referring to other products by company or product names, like Windex or Minwax. Obviously they aren't sold all over the world and it's much better to know it's a "Windows cleaner with alcohol" or a "Polyurethan varnish". Then we can use that info to find our local brands. After all, you have viewers in many different countries.
Surprised no one else has mentioned it, but red, green, and blue are primary colors for an additive pallet, like light. Paint mixing is a subtractive pallet, so your primaries there are going to be cyan, magenta, indigo (and black and white). That being said, you don't have to rely on paint mixing. If you want red, no reason to mix magenta and yellow when you can just buy red paint.
Chad - you're such a geek.... great stuff. :D
Great info on painting. thanks young man.
I just subscribed because of this video! Really well done! Great tips...
Most helpful - thank you!
Nice Vid Chad, thx for the tips, I especially like the one where you stress testing on scrap first, and how to mix more than enough, preparation is paramount in any Paint Project, as it's obvious in those awesome Paints you do, Some Nicely done Aircraft, thx for sharing... :)
This is super useful!!
Another great show, you guys do a great job, please keep it up!
Paasche VL - I love mine!
why is it important to use oil-based and not water-based polyurethane? does the same apply for polycrylic (being as that it is not PU)? All I hear and see from other hobbyist in videos and posts online is to use the water-based polycrylic.
Great video, very informative and helpful!!
Hooray! Thank you, Chad!
VIEWERS... How happy are people who save 100's of DOLLARS by SWITCHING to SCRATCH BUILDS?? Answer. Happier than BIXLER jumping In the background with the BIXLER 2 !!!
Flitetest is bae
Great vídeo, very usefull, congratulations, i liked it!!!
I've been waiting for this video! Thanks so much!
Just as a tip for you guys, if you can't find airbrush paint, you can use regular acrylic paints 1:1 with alcohol, it will be about the same consistency as the 2:1 airbrush paint/windex mix.
I know it's been 10 years, but will isopropyl alcohol (IPA) work?
great works of arts
Vaspar or krylon makes a small can of touch-up paint that can be used on dollar tree foam without melting the foam. Sometimes you can get the small cans for $1.00 at Michaels Sorry, I don't remember the name.
Thanks guys.
Yes, more videos
Thanks for the tips
Thank you , you clear the method painting
I just got through painting my old Fogey with Minwax exactly like Chad did and the paper on the foam started peeling off and puffs are everywhere. I used the correct Minwax (not water based) and brushed it on with an even coat, but not a heavy coat and any excess was removed. I am wondering if the type of foam has changed because now the FT Old Fogey I have can't get put together? ?
when you spray thee first lite coat let it dry a little and the second heaver cot will stick to the first cote and it wont run and you will get a nice paint job
How loud is the pump from Harbor Freight? Could I use it in an apartment without annoying the neighbors?
- Floyd
anything like the one I have no problem at all
Floyd Dameron build a “duct box” from the AC section of the hardware store. Or a heavy insulated cardboard box. Make sure you have ventilation so it won’t overheat.
You guys should do some scratch built micros
great vid
Chad: AIR "pressure" on a Dobble action.
AIR is NOT, repeat NOT meant to be regulated, by pressing more ore less -THAT makes SPATTERS, like you say in your video...
AIR is OPENNED FULL, and then the Flow of paint is pulled back -Then it will Newer spatter.
Vice versa when stopping to paint, PAINT OFF first, then Air Off.
BTW you can use AIR ONLY to dry faster, also a good trick
Just a tip, annother tip is to get your Airbrushes at Hobbyking, so good, and sooo cheap
Awesome! Make a video where you actually show the paint brushing :)
Keep it up guys!
excelent tips thank you
Hmmm....spatters....thanks for the tip on painting oil leaks on the underside of a Spitfire :)
great tips thanks
they have craft foam primer so you can use rattle cans, Testors, Rustoleum and krylon all have foam primers.
Awesome Chad. Thanks
Great tips.
great video. Thanks!
Chad, it would be useful to get some alternative names for these products, not all of us are in the US so they may be called something different or not available at all where other folks live. Ask David for an alternative he might use in Sweden?
Reduce paint with what the manufacturer recommends for clean up. Also--windex will add blue to the color. Happy painting! Best of luck to all....
Even if you wanted to be cheap, the main ingredient in (at least old formula) windex is/was ammonia. You can get a 64oz bottle of ammonia at dollar tree. Might as well just pick up a bottle while getting foam board or whatever.
I used to use windex with ammonia to clean everything, then when I got in to game collecting 10 years ago I learned real fast windex dyes shit blue.
Hobby king has a single action airbrush for $6 and it works really good
1:35 "Final weight 116lbs" LOL!
Great, so now I know what I'll be using my next 20% coupon for at HF.
Thanks FT.