First ever brew with the Brewzilla 35l. Hope it is useful for you folks! Please like and subscribe and you'll be the first to hear about future brew vids. Thanks.
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing. I have learned from reading the manual that you shouldn't have the 1900W heater on when the malt pipe is inserted, otherwise it may scorch the bottom of your brewzilla. It will obviously take longer to heat up with the smaller wattage heater but you can put the water in the brewzilla the night before you want to brew, and pre-heat it with a timer so it's ready when you want it.
Hi thanks for the feedback. I have not had a problem with mine. These days I only use both heaters when trying to hit the mash temperature. I use the 500W heater only to maintain the mash temp once the malt pipe is in, and only use the 1900w heater during the boil. Some hop matter sticks to the bottom where the heating element is, but it is easily cleaned off with water.
Wow! This is great! You have an awesome set up. I'm considering the brewzilla. Have been partial mashing but I like the cost saving of all grain and the recipes. I'll be asking questions when I do get one. Thanks for the vid!!!
Thanks for the video. It helps me out as I just used the brewzilla yesterday for the first time. Had problems with false bottom clogged, inhibiting my pump performance because I didn’t use hop spider and threw the hops in the boil. This video helped for next time.
"one of the rules of homebrewing is you must drink homebrew while you are homebrewing"! lol Yes sir it is the cardinal rule! Awesome brew day video man. Cheers dude!
Thanks for the video Daz! I'm doing kit brews at the moment and looking to get a Brewzilla and this has helped immensely. Great setup you have there with the Fermzilla too :-)
I really enjoyed your vid man I have just got the exact same fermenter as you but no instructions haha , I have the two connectors like you but mine are stainless how does the ball thingy work and where do I fit this be great to see a vid on you detailing the fermzilla thanks again ste
How come you can't use the pump arm to sparge? Using the wort to wash out the grain? I have the same exact setup as you. I have done 5 brews but all extracts. I just ordered my first all-grain kit and your video is perfect for what I am looking for. Spent the last 4 hours researching and then I find your video that could have saved me the 4 hours haha. Instant subbed!
Well you are recirculating during the mash, so the extra water that needs adding anyway may as well be passed through the grains to rinse them. Thanks for the comment, hope your brewing goes well.
Hi, did you measure the pre boil volume and gravity to check the mash efficiency? I did not trust to much on the 80% of BrewFather. I will use my first time in two weeks.
Hi there! Thanks for the awesome videos. I'm very curious as to your review of the beer you made in this video, How did it turn out? Thanks man. Good stuff.
Hi, thanks for the great feedback. I'm not that great at reviewing tastes etc, it was ok and very drinkable. The Kviek adds some esters and a bit of funkiness, so would probably choose a different yeast next time. Lots of recipes to try out!
If you were going to choose a different herb, rather than hops, what would you choose? I’m trying to stay away from the Phytoestrogen that are in the hops, looking for a more manly herb. vikingsmashbrewing.com/hops-are-estrogenic/
Hi, water treatment is quite a lot of work. You can start with distilled water and add the necessary minerals to it for the style of beer you are making; It is good to get a report of your own tap water supply, to understand what it is in it, you can then adjust it to some extent by adding chemicals and salts. When I start with tap water, I add a Camden tablet to remove the chlorine and chloride from it. It really improves the finished beer.
Thank you for your video. I just bought a brewzilla and I will cook for the first time next friday. So, you can make only 20 liters in a 35 liters brewzilla? Sorry for my english, I am from Uruguay, South America.
Hi yes, you can get up to about 24 litres into your fermenter, the 35 litres refers to the pre-boil volume, in practice it can only hold around 30 litres max, pre-boil.
La primera cantidad es realmente el agua del macerado. Despuès le agrega màs agua cuando el grano ya está expuesto y eso se llama "lavar el grano", porque arrastra consigo el resto de los azúcares en el grano y termina de completar el volumen.
Hiya. Yes it does come separately. I think it was around £20. You don't need to buy any extra cam locks for it. It just clamps in like the recirculation arm.
Great video, thank you... I've watched a couple of other reviews of this that seem to skip over stuff. Also, i'll be calling Kveik 'The Angry Yeast' from now on. How's the ongoing experience with the Brewzilla, are you enjoying it? Any issues with capacity when doing 7-8% beers?
Hi, thanks for the comments. I sometimes have problems with the pump blocking when recirculating the wort during the mash. I think you have to have your grain milled just right. I haven't had more than 6kg of grain in it, but brewed a 7.2% beer just fine in it.
It takes about 20mins to heat up. 90 mins for the mash, it will be boiling within about 20 mins from the end of the mash. Boil for 60 to 90 mins, then about 30-40 mins for the wort to cool down using an immersion chiller. Probably another 30 mins to clean it properly afterwards.
@@dazansell thanks, its not to bad. i got enough friends to drink so ill probably break even with the cost (wont sell the beer but well probably all chip in) in just a few months
i dont think hes fermenting under pressure propperly, if he is then he hasnt shown it, id guess hes just using the co2 the fermentation is producing to push back into the wort, alot like fermenting in a corny
He is fermenting under pressure properly, 12- 15psi is typical. At 35 degrees c it will finish fermentation carbonated to 10 psi, but after cold crash that won't be much carbonation at all. The fermzilla he is using is only pressure rated to about 35psi IIRC so at this fermentation temp or at room temp it can't hold enough pressure for full carbonation. Have a google for pressure at various temperatures. When I do it, once carbonation is finished I remove the spunding valve and attach gas at serving pressure, then leave it for a couple of weeks before transferring to a keg.
It was the first time I'd used it, and a few other people had said it helps avoid a stuck mash. I have tried it on since, and it seems to compact the grains and stops the wort circulating properly. Might be due to the grain being milled to fine though.
@@dazansell thanks for that however I'm in New Zealand so dont think theh will post grain lol...just need the recipe? Has good reviews...just purchased the brewzilla 35l as well so wld like to make my first brew the Leffeish. Great name..
I enjoyed watching the video. The only issues that occurred during the brew day was that the brewing equipment, instructions and recipe produced moonshiners beer, not Vienna Lager. The single temperature infusion method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. Different equipment, an entirely different brewing method, and under modified, low protein, malt are used for making ale and lager. The problem with the homebrew method is that, chemically and enzymatically, the method cannot produce ale and lager. The high temperatures that are used to make homebrew denature low temperature activated enzymes that are needed for producing ale and lager, making strike and target temperature useless for making ale and lager. In the homebrew method, the richest starch in malt, amylopectin, is thrown out with the spent mash because the temperatures in homebrewing are not high enough to burst the starch where it enters into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is hard, heat resistant, complex starch that contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer, along with a type of protein that doesn't form at 65C. Mash is boiled to take advantage of the rich starch and when the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies amylopectin and dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. Gelatinization occurs due to pectin. Pectin is cellular glue that hold beer together during the long conditioning cycle that ale and lager go through. When the steps are skipped beer overly dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning. To make homebrew, the only things needed are high modified, malt, imbalanced hops, a single temperature rest and glucose, which aren't suitable for making ale and lager. The homebrew method produces extract that is chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, and unstable, which cause off flavors to develop during fermentation and beer with short shelf life. Homebrew is artificially carbonated and drank when it is green because the beer rapidly, deteriorates due to low quality, extract. Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in homebrewing. The steps are skipped because they require much more time, the fermentation and conditioning cycles are longer, the cost is higher, and more equipment and higher quality ingredients are needed. If you enjoy producing home made moonshiners beer use Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise because they are high quality distillers malts. Marris Otter is unique malt, find the malthouse that produces Marris Otter with 10 percent protein content in the malt and with the lowest level of modification and buy it. The malt is over modified but that's OK unless corn and rice are used. You will need the malt spec sheet from each of the malthouses that produce Marris Otter. Protein content and modification are two important numbers listed on the spec sheet, along with a bunch of other numbers. The less protein, the more sugar. The lower the modification, the richer the malt. Without an understanding of the acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet, it is impossible to make ale and lager. To produce ale and lager use Weyermann floor malt or Gladfield's American Malt, the malt is under modified. To take advantage of brewers grade malt, at the least, a three temperature step mash should be used, which will make pseudo ale and lager. To take full advantage of the malt, a triple decoction is used, which produces authentic ale and lager. To soak the rich, and more expensive malt at one temperature is a waste of money because less expensive, homebrew, malt will produce the same beer, glucose is glucose. A distiller uses a rest temperature at 65, 66C because at that temperature Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose as possible from amylose within an hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. The high temperature rest denatures Beta. Beta is responsible for conversion, which gets in the way of a grain distiller. Maltose and maltotriose aren't needed for making whiskey, only for producing ale and lager. Beta converts (60C) simple sugar, glucose, that Alpha releases from amylose during liquefaction, into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that makes ale and lager. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place. Conversion is skipped in homebrewing because the extract lacks the complex types of sugar needed in ale and lager production. A type of conversion takes place during secondary fermentation when yeast converts maltose back into glucose. Ale and lager do not need to be artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection. When conversion occurs beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, when that happens, add hops and boil for an hour. Removing hot break cleans the extract and less hops are needed. Skim off second break, as well. The less goop and protein sludge carried over into fermentation, the better. A brewers boiler is equipped with a hot break skimmer. Mash out works with a different brewing method. When it is used with the homebrew method, starch carry over occurs. There is no reason to mash out homebrew. A brewing system that uses continuous recirculation of mash liquid causes a condition called over sparge. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing. Vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes for a reason. To learn how ale and lager are made start with DeClercks books. Abstracts from the IOB are free online and interesting to read. The IOB made malt, modern in the 19th century when they invented the malt spec sheet. Stay Safe. Stay Thirsty. Stay Brewing.
Its a very common technique I'm following and widely used. You have posted the same comment on my other making beer video too. Happy for everyone to share their opinion though and thanks for your comment.
Hey Michael James, you need to reeelax! We now all understand you’re a scientific genius, but it’s just home brewed beer. We’re not building rocket ships here. Now settle down, pour yourself a beer and read another brewing book.
Do you work in a commercial brewery or are you the type that "those that can't do teach" your also the guy that's taken a dig at CAMRA book too aren't you, the one written by Graham Wheeler. Without the long winded reply its obvious your biased on BIAB, so what gear and methods do you use for home brew
Found your channel after looking for brewzilla videos. This was a great overview, the best I’ve seen so far. Brew on!
One of the best videos i've seen on the brewzilla. Really helpful video! Subbed
Thank you very much. Going to get brewing again very soon.
Keep up the great work with these brewing videos! Very helpful and insightful!!! Looking forward to more in the future
Nice well thought out tutorial. Getting ready to start my 2nd brew in my brewzilla.
I just got my Brewzilla 3.1.1 today and I'm doing my first batch of beer! This video helped me a lot, thank you!!
Great, glad it was useful. Hope your beer turns out well!
Great video, this was one of the first videos I watched when choosing the Brewzilla. 👍
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing. I have learned from reading the manual that you shouldn't have the 1900W heater on when the malt pipe is inserted, otherwise it may scorch the bottom of your brewzilla. It will obviously take longer to heat up with the smaller wattage heater but you can put the water in the brewzilla the night before you want to brew, and pre-heat it with a timer so it's ready when you want it.
Hi thanks for the feedback. I have not had a problem with mine. These days I only use both heaters when trying to hit the mash temperature. I use the 500W heater only to maintain the mash temp once the malt pipe is in, and only use the 1900w heater during the boil. Some hop matter sticks to the bottom where the heating element is, but it is easily cleaned off with water.
Wow! This is great! You have an awesome set up. I'm considering the brewzilla. Have been partial mashing but I like the cost saving of all grain and the recipes. I'll be asking questions when I do get one. Thanks for the vid!!!
Thanks for the video. It helps me out as I just used the brewzilla yesterday for the first time. Had problems with false bottom clogged, inhibiting my pump performance because I didn’t use hop spider and threw the hops in the boil. This video helped for next time.
Great good luck with your brews!
You deserve more view respect from Sweden
"one of the rules of homebrewing is you must drink homebrew while you are homebrewing"! lol Yes sir it is the cardinal rule! Awesome brew day video man. Cheers dude!
I start my brewdays around 5-6AM... by homebrew you mean homebrwed coffee, right?
I thought you did well mate. I bought a rubbermaid mash tun and 55l boil pot years ago. Ring burner etc It works well.
Thanks for the video Daz! I'm doing kit brews at the moment and looking to get a Brewzilla and this has helped immensely. Great setup you have there with the Fermzilla too :-)
Thanks buddy.
So simple! Brilliant video mate for us newbies! Cheers mate!
Many thanks, I have just posted another on another beer brewed with the same system. Good luck with your brewing!
I really enjoyed your vid man I have just got the exact same fermenter as you but no instructions haha , I have the two connectors like you but mine are stainless how does the ball thingy work and where do I fit this be great to see a vid on you detailing the fermzilla thanks again ste
Nice job. Rubber cap goes on the overflow pipe when adding grains.
Thanks, I usually do now, might have forgot to on the video.
Pretty sure you did 😂
How come you can't use the pump arm to sparge? Using the wort to wash out the grain? I have the same exact setup as you. I have done 5 brews but all extracts. I just ordered my first all-grain kit and your video is perfect for what I am looking for. Spent the last 4 hours researching and then I find your video that could have saved me the 4 hours haha. Instant subbed!
Well you are recirculating during the mash, so the extra water that needs adding anyway may as well be passed through the grains to rinse them. Thanks for the comment, hope your brewing goes well.
Nice machine! did screwtube give you any hassle over the music?
Hi, did you measure the pre boil volume and gravity to check the mash efficiency? I did not trust to much on the 80% of BrewFather. I will use my first time in two weeks.
thanks for your reply , can i just use bottle water without adding stuff or do you still have too thanks
Do you have recipe for the two hearted ipa please
Do you have the LeffeIsh recipe to share mate?
What brewhouse efficiency do you get with this setup?
How did you find the boss kveik? I made two batches with it and will probably avoid it going forward...bit too orangey!
Great video- thanks!!
Do you have the recipe for that Leffe’ish brew?
Dingemans Pilsen Malt (5000 grams)
Dingemans Aromatic Malt (227 grams)
Dingemans Pale Wheat Malt (227 grams)
Hallertauer Mittlefruh Pellets (83 grams)
Belgian Candi Sugar Rocks Clear 500g (1 packs)
Safbrew™ T-58 (1 packs)
Batch Size: 23ltr
Original Gravity: 1.065
Final Gravity: 1.010
ABV %: 7.0
THE MASH
Temperature °C: 66
Length (mins): 90
THE BOIL
Boil time (mins): 90
83g - Hallertauer MittelFrueh - 90mins
500g Candi Rocks - 10 mins
Yeast: T-58
Fermentation temperature/steps: 20c
Hi there! Thanks for the awesome videos. I'm very curious as to your review of the beer you made in this video, How did it turn out? Thanks man. Good stuff.
Hi, thanks for the great feedback. I'm not that great at reviewing tastes etc, it was ok and very drinkable. The Kviek adds some esters and a bit of funkiness, so would probably choose a different yeast next time. Lots of recipes to try out!
If you were going to choose a different herb, rather than hops, what would you choose? I’m trying to stay away from the Phytoestrogen that are in the hops, looking for a more manly herb. vikingsmashbrewing.com/hops-are-estrogenic/
Hello!Could you please tell me the evaporation rate for brewzilla!?Thank you!
Hi, When I start with say 28l, after a 90 min boil I'd say around 4 to 5 l evaporate. That is with the 1000W element on only.
@@dazansell Thank you so much!Have a nice day!!!!!!
You say you treated the water how do you do this
Hi, water treatment is quite a lot of work. You can start with distilled water and add the necessary minerals to it for the style of beer you are making; It is good to get a report of your own tap water supply, to understand what it is in it, you can then adjust it to some extent by adding chemicals and salts. When I start with tap water, I add a Camden tablet to remove the chlorine and chloride from it. It really improves the finished beer.
Thank you for your video. I just bought a brewzilla and I will cook for the first time next friday.
So, you can make only 20 liters in a 35 liters brewzilla?
Sorry for my english, I am from Uruguay, South America.
Hi yes, you can get up to about 24 litres into your fermenter, the 35 litres refers to the pre-boil volume, in practice it can only hold around 30 litres max, pre-boil.
@@dazansell thank you, very much! I am so nervous! And I still don't know how many litres of water and how many kilos of matl!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How did it turn out? The suspense is killing me haha :)
It was very good thanks! My future vids will all be grain to glass so you can see the end result.
LOL, just glossed right over the initial temp setting in F......
Hi man! if I understand... First you mash just wtih a little of water and then you add more water? (sorry Im mexican and my english is poor yetXD)
Hi, yes, first mash with say 16 litres, then add more water (sparge) with 12 to 14 litres.
@@dazansell thanks👌🤘
La primera cantidad es realmente el agua del macerado. Despuès le agrega màs agua cuando el grano ya está expuesto y eso se llama "lavar el grano", porque arrastra consigo el resto de los azúcares en el grano y termina de completar el volumen.
Please can I ask a question Daz? Does the whirlpool arm come separately and also, do you need to buy a camlock for it?
Hiya. Yes it does come separately. I think it was around £20. You don't need to buy any extra cam locks for it. It just clamps in like the recirculation arm.
@@dazansell Thank you!
Great video, thank you... I've watched a couple of other reviews of this that seem to skip over stuff. Also, i'll be calling Kveik 'The Angry Yeast' from now on. How's the ongoing experience with the Brewzilla, are you enjoying it? Any issues with capacity when doing 7-8% beers?
Hi, thanks for the comments. I sometimes have problems with the pump blocking when recirculating the wort during the mash. I think you have to have your grain milled just right. I haven't had more than 6kg of grain in it, but brewed a 7.2% beer just fine in it.
Im considering getting this unit, but in a normal batch how much time do you usually spend? Both active and waiting time?
It takes about 20mins to heat up. 90 mins for the mash, it will be boiling within about 20 mins from the end of the mash. Boil for 60 to 90 mins, then about 30-40 mins for the wort to cool down using an immersion chiller. Probably another 30 mins to clean it properly afterwards.
@@dazansell thanks, its not to bad. i got enough friends to drink so ill probably break even with the cost (wont sell the beer but well probably all chip in) in just a few months
During your fermenting under presure, is it self carbonating?
i dont think hes fermenting under pressure propperly, if he is then he hasnt shown it, id guess hes just using the co2 the fermentation is producing to push back into the wort, alot like fermenting in a corny
He is fermenting under pressure properly, 12- 15psi is typical. At 35 degrees c it will finish fermentation carbonated to 10 psi, but after cold crash that won't be much carbonation at all. The fermzilla he is using is only pressure rated to about 35psi IIRC so at this fermentation temp or at room temp it can't hold enough pressure for full carbonation. Have a google for pressure at various temperatures. When I do it, once carbonation is finished I remove the spunding valve and attach gas at serving pressure, then leave it for a couple of weeks before transferring to a keg.
Why did you remove the top screen during sparge?
It was the first time I'd used it, and a few other people had said it helps avoid a stuck mash. I have tried it on since, and it seems to compact the grains and stops the wort circulating properly. Might be due to the grain being milled to fine though.
Hi there - I've been after a good Leffe clone recipe for yrs - how can I get a copy of this - thanks
I got my kit from here www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/belgian-blonde-leffe-clone/
@@dazansell thanks for that however I'm in New Zealand so dont think theh will post grain lol...just need the recipe? Has good reviews...just purchased the brewzilla 35l as well so wld like to make my first brew the Leffeish. Great name..
@@richardstraight4418 no worries. If you follow the link, you can see the recipe on the label on the bag if that helps at all?
@@dazansell thanks
Not very clear on my phone but will use internet to see if I can read it better
I enjoyed watching the video. The only issues that occurred during the brew day was that the brewing equipment, instructions and recipe produced moonshiners beer, not Vienna Lager. The single temperature infusion method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. Different equipment, an entirely different brewing method, and under modified, low protein, malt are used for making ale and lager.
The problem with the homebrew method is that, chemically and enzymatically, the method cannot produce ale and lager. The high temperatures that are used to make homebrew denature low temperature activated enzymes that are needed for producing ale and lager, making strike and target temperature useless for making ale and lager. In the homebrew method, the richest starch in malt, amylopectin, is thrown out with the spent mash because the temperatures in homebrewing are not high enough to burst the starch where it enters into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is hard, heat resistant, complex starch that contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer, along with a type of protein that doesn't form at 65C. Mash is boiled to take advantage of the rich starch and when the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies amylopectin and dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. Gelatinization occurs due to pectin. Pectin is cellular glue that hold beer together during the long conditioning cycle that ale and lager go through. When the steps are skipped beer overly dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning.
To make homebrew, the only things needed are high modified, malt, imbalanced hops, a single temperature rest and glucose, which aren't suitable for making ale and lager. The homebrew method produces extract that is chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, and unstable, which cause off flavors to develop during fermentation and beer with short shelf life. Homebrew is artificially carbonated and drank when it is green because the beer rapidly, deteriorates due to low quality, extract.
Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in homebrewing. The steps are skipped because they require much more time, the fermentation and conditioning cycles are longer, the cost is higher, and more equipment and higher quality ingredients are needed.
If you enjoy producing home made moonshiners beer use Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise because they are high quality distillers malts. Marris Otter is unique malt, find the malthouse that produces Marris Otter with 10 percent protein content in the malt and with the lowest level of modification and buy it. The malt is over modified but that's OK unless corn and rice are used. You will need the malt spec sheet from each of the malthouses that produce Marris Otter. Protein content and modification are two important numbers listed on the spec sheet, along with a bunch of other numbers. The less protein, the more sugar. The lower the modification, the richer the malt. Without an understanding of the acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet, it is impossible to make ale and lager.
To produce ale and lager use Weyermann floor malt or Gladfield's American Malt, the malt is under modified. To take advantage of brewers grade malt, at the least, a three temperature step mash should be used, which will make pseudo ale and lager. To take full advantage of the malt, a triple decoction is used, which produces authentic ale and lager. To soak the rich, and more expensive malt at one temperature is a waste of money because less expensive, homebrew, malt will produce the same beer, glucose is glucose.
A distiller uses a rest temperature at 65, 66C because at that temperature Alpha releases the highest amount of glucose as possible from amylose within an hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. The high temperature rest denatures Beta. Beta is responsible for conversion, which gets in the way of a grain distiller. Maltose and maltotriose aren't needed for making whiskey, only for producing ale and lager.
Beta converts (60C) simple sugar, glucose, that Alpha releases from amylose during liquefaction, into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that makes ale and lager. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place. Conversion is skipped in homebrewing because the extract lacks the complex types of sugar needed in ale and lager production. A type of conversion takes place during secondary fermentation when yeast converts maltose back into glucose. Ale and lager do not need to be artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection. When conversion occurs beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose.
Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, when that happens, add hops and boil for an hour. Removing hot break cleans the extract and less hops are needed. Skim off second break, as well. The less goop and protein sludge carried over into fermentation, the better. A brewers boiler is equipped with a hot break skimmer.
Mash out works with a different brewing method. When it is used with the homebrew method, starch carry over occurs. There is no reason to mash out homebrew.
A brewing system that uses continuous recirculation of mash liquid causes a condition called over sparge. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing. Vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes for a reason.
To learn how ale and lager are made start with DeClercks books. Abstracts from the IOB are free online and interesting to read. The IOB made malt, modern in the 19th century when they invented the malt spec sheet.
Stay Safe. Stay Thirsty. Stay Brewing.
Its a very common technique I'm following and widely used. You have posted the same comment on my other making beer video too. Happy for everyone to share their opinion though and thanks for your comment.
Hey Michael James, you need to reeelax!
We now all understand you’re a scientific genius, but it’s just home brewed beer. We’re not building rocket ships here.
Now settle down, pour yourself a beer and read another brewing book.
Do you work in a commercial brewery or are you the type that "those that can't do teach" your also the guy that's taken a dig at CAMRA book too aren't you, the one written by Graham Wheeler.
Without the long winded reply its obvious your biased on BIAB, so what gear and methods do you use for home brew
are you serious mate, it’s a hobby.
like Charlie says “relax and have a homebrew”
muppet
Are you touched in the head, champ?