The Remington 552 autoloading rifle completely disassembled by Jim Humphrey of Imminent Threat Defense Firearms Training. You can download the owners manual at www.remington....
So glad I found your video. The part you identified as being assembled incorrectly during disassembly was driving me nutz. Every video I saw before yours never explained them. In fact they acted like they weren't even meant to come out. So you can imagine when mine just fell out on their own. Thanks GREAT INFO!
Clear, informative video and explanations. I purchased my 552 as a teenager and, usually to my regret, completely disassembled it for a thorough cleaning. There was no TH-cam, computers, nor internet so I laid out all parts in position as best I could, cleaned each individually, and placed it back in position on my table. After a couple of reassembly hiccups, it went properly together, fired perfectly and without issue, and has been the singular gun I will never sell.
This helped me a lot. Was gifted a Speedmaster in almost new condition. Was very hard to cock when the hammer was down. I ended up sanding the bolt interface to the hammer and that improved. The carrier was drifted out of alignment which seemed to be the cause of failure to load from the magazine. There's play in that part so I hope it stays put. Cheers.
Besides using the short, long and long rifle, I have had no problems using the low velocity CCI in long and long rifle. Not much noisier than some air rifles.
I had a 552 back in1961. I didn't have the punches or tools to do a complete disassembly as this video shows. This 552 appears to have a replacement front sight. Mine had to be replaced as well as the gold dot fell out on a camping trip. I had some old ammo and one round didn't leave the barrel. The second round pushed it out but bulged the barrel ruining the accuracy. I found that when I didn't get the two disconnect levers on the side of the trigger assembly back in the proper order after cleaning, the gun went full order for a couple rounds before jamming.
Thanks for this video. I have one of these rifles. I need to replace the firing pin and the hammer spring. Finally found parts from a guy here in PA. The rifle os fun to shoot but having issues with light primer strikes and misfires. Gonna replace the firing pin and hammer spring to see if that improves the function.
Great video , only one I could find that mention the buffer , the buffer in mine was in upside down as well , could you show how it should look when its installed correctly .
Agreed, the chamber doesn't seem to be there. How does it shoot the shorts then? Just a very light recoil spring? Lower mass bolt? Heading over to Remington Society Forum to see what they know.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. And I've used it for the better part of 50 years on my firearms. Wipe it on, and wipe it off before storage. Removes dusty rust on new firearms, any time I see brown on a paper towel used to wipe... I know there was rust. -- back to floating chamber or breech or whatever you call it. - I was under the impression that this was required to shoot low recoil shells (like 22 short) in these rifles. How else can it be done? There are several Remington models that shoot all three standard cartridges without issue. Perhaps I am wrong... but if the 550-1 used it, then I'd suppose it would have been required in the others unless they came up with a better plan. Thanks for replying... appreciate your time in investigating the question.
WD-40 is snake oil, it does everything according to the myth :-) but it is listed as a lubricant/protective/penetrant on their website. When it was the only spray oil out there it was handy and I used it on firearms too. But there's a lot better alternatives out there now, e.g. Hoppes, Remington. It's a pretty good idea not to use penetrants on firearms unless you remove it completely afterwards. Penetrants and ammo don't mix, well actually that's the problem they do mix. My experience with gun parts and machine tools put away in storage, is that WD-40 will, after a few years, evaporate and leave behind a gooey residue. If you're cleaning and applying it regularly I don't think you'll see the issue until you pull the firearm apart, and find the WD-40 has penetrated into all the nooks and crannies and now it's full of yellow goo. I see it all time. As for the floating chamber, I don't know the history but I think it's actually less common than rifles without. Like you say there's a bunch of rifles that shoot all three but don't have it, like the Winchester 62A (th-cam.com/video/vbmUNw6094Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QSdxaiPa_EA8WWim). I always assumed they just didn't care that much about freebore since it was just a 22 short. Maybe the floating chamber makes it more accurate with the 22 short. Don't know, one of life's mysteries. Thanks for commenting though, I always enjoy the discussion.
I am having a problem getting the takedown screw back in. We went out shooting and it had worked its way loose. Shame on me for not checking these things ahead of time. However, right now I cannot get the screw to thread. It seems like the piece above it is not aligning with a threaded piece below it. This is as you look at it from the bottom. Any suggestions before I disassemble it to see if I can read this right into the part itself? Please excuse my terminology And I hope you can help me.This is an excellent video. Thank you for posting.
I'd be very careful if that screw doesn't want to go in with just your fingers, when it got loose you may have misaligned the parts but you may have damaged some threads either on the screw or the nut on the barrel. On the other hand it may just be some built up gunk. What you describe sounds like the barrel slipped out of the receiver, just a little, the barrel should just press back in. Either way I'd say remove the screw completely, clean and inspect it carefully. A screw with damaged threads can sometimes be fixed by just a wirebrush wheel (a bench grinder with a wire brush on it), a few seconds on the wirebrush wheel will fix a lot a small imperfections. Otherwise, you need to get a thread chaser or die (be careful if you use a die) and straighten the threads. I would go ahead and pull the barrel and clean and inspect where the screw attaches to the barrel, that nut is called the "forend hanger". There are three parts that have to align to get that screw into place so try adding them one at a time. First try the screw in just the forend hanger. The screw should go in easily by hand. If it doesn't, you'll probably have to chase the threads on the forend hanger too. Whatever you do, at this point, don't force the screw by just getting a bigger screwdriver, you could really mess up the threads and that forend hanger. The forend hanger is a replaceable part, if you can find one. Then put the barrel back the in the receiver and try again, then add the forend. That’ll help narrow down the problem. However, if the screw does go in easily with none of the other parts attached, then it’s probably an alignment problem, just clean and grease where the barrel goes into the receiver and press them together. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you very much for the thorough reply. I disassembled the gun and then sprayed the threads with gun cleaner and lubricated them with Kroil. I also cleaned the screw as well. I am now able to hand-thread the screw into the hole! My 552 is from 1972 and I really appreciate your help!
If anybody could measure the firing pin protrusion and or firing pin overall length I'd appreciate it. Ideally on a gun in good shape. I'd like see if I can figure out the spec
Failure to eject on this gun I'd say is most likely caused by ammo, secondly by maintenance. Try different ammo's see if makes a difference. This rifle is pretty tolerant of poor maintenance but a good cleaning and lubrication fixes all sorts of issues. Unless your ejector is obviously broken, it's more likely the bolt isn't cycling back far enough for the case to hit the ejector so either the ammo isn't pushing hard enough or the bolt isn't sliding free enough. My opinion, for what it's worth :-) Thanks for watching!
@@ImminentThreatDefense thank you. Mine has the same issue. I planned to go through it and clean it thoroughly. Hopefully that will solve it. Thank you very much for the video. I know how trouble you guys go through posting on TH-cam. God bless.
Thanks for video...super helpful. Had a spent 22 case stuck in the chamber and the back of the shell casing pulled off so I could push a cleaning rod all the way thru but the spent casing would not come out. I finally managed to get it out...long story. My problem now is I have a part that was in that end of the barrel but it’s not part of the bolt or ejector and not sure where it goes. Still searching parts lists on the web but don’t see it listed. It’s sort of T shaped and slightly rounded with a hole in it. Any suggestions?
Looking at your bolt, its different than mine in that mine has a hole all the way thru where the extractor spring is meant to go. It doesnt appear to be custom work, but it makes the spring impossible to seat properly. Are you familiar with this kind of bolt? Im having a hard time finding info on it.
Sorry, no I'm not familiar with bolt variations. You'll note I didn't remove the extractor in the video because the pin was just too tight. But send me some pics of what you're dealing with and I'll try to help. ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com
You can do a partial disassembly then use a spray solvent and compressed air to blast the bolt clean. Otherwise just do a full disassembly and clean everything.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Not the bolt, the "floating" chamber... this allegedly is how these rifles can shoot short & long rifle interchangeably. I shot some WD-40 down the barrel, let it sit for a minute or two then a patch pushed by a wood dowel.. (was handy) and it brought out a bunch of ugly black guk. Test fired with Remington "Yellow Jacket" and it worked. Would like to see some details on proper way to get this piece cleaned. Is it obviously separate from the barrel, or is it integral. Some help on this would be great as NO ONE has addressed this issue.
@@davidhenzler4817 I don't think the 552 has a floating chamber (like the 550), but if it did and I missed it. You can find 550 videos to see how to remove it. If it does have one, you should be able to pop it out and clean it, or use the method I described above. If you've got a barrel length ultrasonic cleaner that would be a good method too. For what it's worth I'm not much of a fan of using WD-40 on firearms. I've had bad experiences with firearms that will end up with a gooey residue after the WD-40 ages for a couple of years. Plus it's a little light for lubrication and has penetrating properties. I prefer one of the firearms specific lubricants like RemOil. But for this I'd recommend using a solvent not an oil. Then a brush and compressed air. Hope that helps
Hello friend, greetings I could not get the firing pin of my speed Master 552 I think there is none in stock I would like you to help me with the measurements to send Aser one on a lathe could you Aser that for my friend
You can find the lubrication instructions in the owners manual. You can download one at www.remington.com/sites/default/files/documents/3530%20-%20552-572%20Owner's%20Manual%20-%203-21-2012.pdf
@@ImminentThreatDefense, thank you very much! What about the tool at 11:52. When you said, "even with this toll it's a tough job"...Did you buy it or is it something you made? Thanks again!
@@mnrodriguez that tool is called a silver bullet. I got it at an armorer's school. But Brownell sells them for 870 shotgun, it also works on this gun. Brownells part number 100-003-626WB
I'm not sure you can get parts from the U.S. because of ITAR regulations. However, a good source of old gun parts is Numrich www.gunpartscorp.com and Jack First jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/ Inquire with them and I'm sure they can inform you of the international shipping regulations.
My go to shops for old parts are Numrich and Jack First, neither one are showing that part in stock right now but you should check them from time to time. Keep in mind the 572 uses the same part (at least I'm pretty sure), so if you're searching look at both models.
@@ImminentThreatDefense amigo usted sabe cuál es la medida del perno que yeba en el guardamonte o la manesilla de un rifle calibre 22 modelo 552 marca remintong gracias
Just you went a little slower a d was more detailed oriented. I figured it out after dozen times of rewinding and watching again and again. I think someone with no gun experience would have many issues trying to follow this video.
Fair comment. I struggle with every video trying to balance detail with duration. I'm trying to provide educational content for firearms enthusiasts but at the same time not bore everyone to death. But for example the average viewing time for this video is about 35%, which is a little bit above average. Unfortunately, I can't tell from the TH-cam analytics how that's distributed. I suspect it's an average of people like you who watched 150% and 10 other viewers who watched about 5%. It's frustrating for me to create content if nobody watches it, but at the same time if I can help just a few people then I think I've achieved my goal. TH-cam is pushing developers to produce "shorts", video's less than 60 seconds in length, I'm not going there yet. Anyway, thanks for the comment I'm always trying to improve my content. If you had trouble with any aspect of the assembly, don't hesitate to reach out, I usually try to help or maybe I can even go through my rough video and find a clip that helps. Thanks for watching!
That's one of my replaceable pin punches. You can get them from Brownells 080-507-050WB one of my favorite tools. I replaced the steel pins they come with brass pins cut from brass rod stock of the correct diameter. I prefer to use brass whenever I can. Any brass punch is going to bend after very little use, but on these it's no problem just put in a new pin. Also the punch has a square shoulder so you don't risk over driving it and damaging the gun. Since the brass rod doesn't have a flanged head like the steel purpose built pins, I usually crimp the brass on one end with serrated pliers. But from time to time in my videos you'll see the brass pins fall out. Thanks for watching!
Penetrating oil, my preference is Kroil but there are a number of other good ones out there. Getting the oil to the threads will be a bit of a challenge, get a needle tip bottle (hobby shop, Brownells, Amazon) and let gravity do the work. Brace the gun upside down, make several applications and let it soak over night. Soak time is important. Notice there is a steel collar in the stock, so place the oil between the collar and the screw not the collar and the wood. Then use a properly sized screw driver, one with a snug fit, preferably an armorer type with honed sides (Chapman or Magna-Tip). Either get a friend to help or clamp down the rifle so you can use two hands on the driver, less chance it'll slip and wreck the screw slot or the stock. Good luck, let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching
@@ImminentThreatDefense thank you sir! I received this gun as a Christmas present in 1964. First gun of many and has never been broken down like you are showing!. Have not shot it in probably 20 years. With this COVID mess and some extra time on hands, I have been ultra deep cleaning all my guns and finally got to my very first one. I seriously enjoy your video. I never knew how to break this gun down before.
@@willlowe1301 I got started with these videos for people in my family, working on family heirlooms. The one in the video is my brother-in-law's, he's had it forever. Really great to hear I've helped you take care of yours. Thanks.
5:02 in the video? You can see at 1:35 how I pulled the buffer out without first removing the buffer pad, that's the wrong way. The tab on the buffer goes under the buffer pad. they are oriented like I show at 5:02. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Push the safety from right to left? Hammer has to be cocked. If that's not it pull out the trigger group (see the video) and have a look, anything missing, broken or rusted?
So glad I found your video. The part you identified as being assembled incorrectly during disassembly was driving me nutz. Every video I saw before yours never explained them. In fact they acted like they weren't even meant to come out. So you can imagine when mine just fell out on their own. Thanks GREAT INFO!
Clear, informative video and explanations. I purchased my 552 as a teenager and, usually to my regret, completely disassembled it for a thorough cleaning. There was no TH-cam, computers, nor internet so I laid out all parts in position as best I could, cleaned each individually, and placed it back in position on my table. After a couple of reassembly hiccups, it went properly together, fired perfectly and without issue, and has been the singular gun I will never sell.
Amigo tengo un rifle igual un modelo 552 remintong pero perdí el tornillo que yeba el guarda mano sabes que medida es i en la enpuñadura
This helped me a lot. Was gifted a Speedmaster in almost new condition. Was very hard to cock when the hammer was down. I ended up sanding the bolt interface to the hammer and that improved. The carrier was drifted out of alignment which seemed to be the cause of failure to load from the magazine. There's play in that part so I hope it stays put. Cheers.
My firing pin broke thanks for the takedown vid prob could figured it out but glad someone went through the trials and errors lol thanks man
You are the best! Thank you so much! My Speedmaster is now READY for the range!!!
wish a little more elaboration on buffer pad. but I got it with your help. thank you.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, it's always a challenge to keep the video's a reasonable length but still provide the details that are really needed.
Besides using the short, long and long rifle, I have had no problems using the low velocity CCI in long and long rifle. Not much noisier than some air rifles.
I had a 552 back in1961. I didn't have the punches or tools to do a complete disassembly as this video shows. This 552 appears to have a replacement front sight. Mine had to be replaced as well as the gold dot fell out on a camping trip. I had some old ammo and one round didn't leave the barrel. The second round pushed it out but bulged the barrel ruining the accuracy. I found that when I didn't get the two disconnect levers on the side of the trigger assembly back in the proper order after cleaning, the gun went full order for a couple rounds before jamming.
Beautiful gun, got a brand new one today!!!!
The new ones are junk! Should have bought an old one
Very well done sir ! Thank you for sharing your talent !
Could you please show more detail on the buffer pad and buffer. You did talk more about it than most people. Thank you
Sorry but that gun is back with the owner. You'll have to use freeze frame. :-)
Thank you for the help.
Thanks for this video. I have one of these rifles. I need to replace the firing pin and the hammer spring. Finally found parts from a guy here in PA. The rifle os fun to shoot but having issues with light primer strikes and misfires.
Gonna replace the firing pin and hammer spring to see if that improves the function.
ebay has parts listed fro sale. I had double feeds with mine. Had to beef up the buffer pad with a piece of inner tube.
Had one for 50 years didn't know you could take bolt apart
I use lubraplate for lubing parts. It's a lithium grease and you only need a very thin coating.
Good choice
Merci pour cette vidéo, cela m'a aider pour changer la firepin qui a casser. Vue du Quebec.
Great video , only one I could find that mention the buffer , the buffer in mine was in upside down as well , could you show how it should look when its installed correctly .
There's a pretty good, although brief, view at 5:05 in the video. Thanks for watching!
Nice video on taking it apart sir
Agreed, the chamber doesn't seem to be there. How does it shoot the shorts then? Just a very light recoil spring? Lower mass bolt? Heading over to Remington Society Forum to see what they know.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. And I've used it for the better part of 50 years on my firearms. Wipe it on, and wipe it off before storage. Removes dusty rust on new firearms, any time I see brown on a paper towel used to wipe... I know there was rust. -- back to floating chamber or breech or whatever you call it. - I was under the impression that this was required to shoot low recoil shells (like 22 short) in these rifles. How else can it be done? There are several Remington models that shoot all three standard cartridges without issue. Perhaps I am wrong... but if the 550-1 used it, then I'd suppose it would have been required in the others unless they came up with a better plan.
Thanks for replying... appreciate your time in investigating the question.
WD-40 is snake oil, it does everything according to the myth :-) but it is listed as a lubricant/protective/penetrant on their website. When it was the only spray oil out there it was handy and I used it on firearms too. But there's a lot better alternatives out there now, e.g. Hoppes, Remington. It's a pretty good idea not to use penetrants on firearms unless you remove it completely afterwards. Penetrants and ammo don't mix, well actually that's the problem they do mix. My experience with gun parts and machine tools put away in storage, is that WD-40 will, after a few years, evaporate and leave behind a gooey residue. If you're cleaning and applying it regularly I don't think you'll see the issue until you pull the firearm apart, and find the WD-40 has penetrated into all the nooks and crannies and now it's full of yellow goo. I see it all time. As for the floating chamber, I don't know the history but I think it's actually less common than rifles without. Like you say there's a bunch of rifles that shoot all three but don't have it, like the Winchester 62A (th-cam.com/video/vbmUNw6094Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QSdxaiPa_EA8WWim). I always assumed they just didn't care that much about freebore since it was just a 22 short. Maybe the floating chamber makes it more accurate with the 22 short. Don't know, one of life's mysteries. Thanks for commenting though, I always enjoy the discussion.
Great video man thanks this was a ton of help
The Remington Nylon 66 can also do short long & long rifle...
The Remington 550-1 can also do short long & long rifle...
I am having a problem getting the takedown screw back in. We went out shooting and it had worked its way loose. Shame on me for not checking these things ahead of time. However, right now I cannot get the screw to thread. It seems like the piece above it is not aligning with a threaded piece below it. This is as you look at it from the bottom. Any suggestions before I disassemble it to see if I can read this right into the part itself? Please excuse my terminology And I hope you can help me.This is an excellent video. Thank you for posting.
I'd be very careful if that screw doesn't want to go in with just your fingers, when it got loose you may have misaligned the parts but you may have damaged some threads either on the screw or the nut on the barrel. On the other hand it may just be some built up gunk. What you describe sounds like the barrel slipped out of the receiver, just a little, the barrel should just press back in. Either way I'd say remove the screw completely, clean and inspect it carefully. A screw with damaged threads can sometimes be fixed by just a wirebrush wheel (a bench grinder with a wire brush on it), a few seconds on the wirebrush wheel will fix a lot a small imperfections. Otherwise, you need to get a thread chaser or die (be careful if you use a die) and straighten the threads. I would go ahead and pull the barrel and clean and inspect where the screw attaches to the barrel, that nut is called the "forend hanger". There are three parts that have to align to get that screw into place so try adding them one at a time. First try the screw in just the forend hanger. The screw should go in easily by hand. If it doesn't, you'll probably have to chase the threads on the forend hanger too. Whatever you do, at this point, don't force the screw by just getting a bigger screwdriver, you could really mess up the threads and that forend hanger. The forend hanger is a replaceable part, if you can find one. Then put the barrel back the in the receiver and try again, then add the forend. That’ll help narrow down the problem. However, if the screw does go in easily with none of the other parts attached, then it’s probably an alignment problem, just clean and grease where the barrel goes into the receiver and press them together. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you very much for the thorough reply. I disassembled the gun and then sprayed the threads with gun cleaner and lubricated them with Kroil. I also cleaned the screw as well. I am now able to hand-thread the screw into the hole! My 552 is from 1972 and I really appreciate your help!
Amigo que medida es el tornillo que perdiste yo perdí el tornillo i quiero saber la medida
If anybody could measure the firing pin protrusion and or firing pin overall length I'd appreciate it. Ideally on a gun in good shape. I'd like see if I can figure out the spec
I plan to take my 552 apart to clean it later sometime. But when I do I will see about measuring the firing pin for you and post it in the comments.
Thanks man ! I got it. Confusing at first. Not a bolt rifle !
My 552 some times it doesn't eject. Could it be ejecter bad or just dirty? Or what do I look for?
Failure to eject on this gun I'd say is most likely caused by ammo, secondly by maintenance. Try different ammo's see if makes a difference. This rifle is pretty tolerant of poor maintenance but a good cleaning and lubrication fixes all sorts of issues. Unless your ejector is obviously broken, it's more likely the bolt isn't cycling back far enough for the case to hit the ejector so either the ammo isn't pushing hard enough or the bolt isn't sliding free enough. My opinion, for what it's worth :-) Thanks for watching!
@@ImminentThreatDefense thanks 👍
@@ImminentThreatDefense thank you. Mine has the same issue. I planned to go through it and clean it thoroughly. Hopefully that will solve it.
Thank you very much for the video. I know how trouble you guys go through posting on TH-cam. God bless.
Friend what is the measurement of the length of the firing needle
I don't have the manufacturer specification. However, a friend measured a couple of working firing pins at 2.15"
Thank you friend the piece is sold out 2.15 is the right measure thanks
Thanks for video...super helpful. Had a spent 22 case stuck in the chamber and the back of the shell casing pulled off so I could push a cleaning rod all the way thru but the spent casing would not come out. I finally managed to get it out...long story. My problem now is I have a part that was in that end of the barrel but it’s not part of the bolt or ejector and not sure where it goes. Still searching parts lists on the web but don’t see it listed. It’s sort of T shaped and slightly rounded with a hole in it. Any suggestions?
Send me a picture itdefensetraining@gmail.com
Super. Sent you some pics in the email. Thanks!
Looking at your bolt, its different than mine in that mine has a hole all the way thru where the extractor spring is meant to go. It doesnt appear to be custom work, but it makes the spring impossible to seat properly. Are you familiar with this kind of bolt? Im having a hard time finding info on it.
Sorry, no I'm not familiar with bolt variations. You'll note I didn't remove the extractor in the video because the pin was just too tight. But send me some pics of what you're dealing with and I'll try to help. ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com
having trouble with jamming and failure to fire. Think it's the "floating chamber". How do I proceed to clean this... solvent bath? Please advise.
You can do a partial disassembly then use a spray solvent and compressed air to blast the bolt clean. Otherwise just do a full disassembly and clean everything.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Not the bolt, the "floating" chamber... this allegedly is how these rifles can shoot short & long rifle interchangeably. I shot some WD-40 down the barrel, let it sit for a minute or two then a patch pushed by a wood dowel.. (was handy) and it brought out a bunch of ugly black guk. Test fired with Remington "Yellow Jacket" and it worked.
Would like to see some details on proper way to get this piece cleaned. Is it obviously separate from the barrel, or is it integral. Some help on this would be great as NO ONE has addressed this issue.
@@davidhenzler4817 I don't think the 552 has a floating chamber (like the 550), but if it did and I missed it. You can find 550 videos to see how to remove it. If it does have one, you should be able to pop it out and clean it, or use the method I described above. If you've got a barrel length ultrasonic cleaner that would be a good method too. For what it's worth I'm not much of a fan of using WD-40 on firearms. I've had bad experiences with firearms that will end up with a gooey residue after the WD-40 ages for a couple of years. Plus it's a little light for lubrication and has penetrating properties. I prefer one of the firearms specific lubricants like RemOil. But for this I'd recommend using a solvent not an oil. Then a brush and compressed air. Hope that helps
Hello friend, greetings I could not get the firing pin of my speed Master 552 I think there is none in stock I would like you to help me with the measurements to send Aser one on a lathe could you Aser that for my friend
Please show how to lubricate this rifle...where did you get the trigger tool? Thanks!
You can find the lubrication instructions in the owners manual. You can download one at www.remington.com/sites/default/files/documents/3530%20-%20552-572%20Owner's%20Manual%20-%203-21-2012.pdf
@@ImminentThreatDefense, thank you very much! What about the tool at 11:52. When you said, "even with this toll it's a tough job"...Did you buy it or is it something you made? Thanks again!
@@mnrodriguez that tool is called a silver bullet. I got it at an armorer's school. But Brownell sells them for 870 shotgun, it also works on this gun. Brownells part number 100-003-626WB
Boa noite sou do Brasil, tenho uma remington 552 e estou precisando de peças onde posso encontrar para comprar
I'm not sure you can get parts from the U.S. because of ITAR regulations. However, a good source of old gun parts is Numrich www.gunpartscorp.com and Jack First jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/ Inquire with them and I'm sure they can inform you of the international shipping regulations.
Great video I broke the receiver cover on my 552 any ideas on where I can find a replacement thanks
My go to shops for old parts are Numrich and Jack First, neither one are showing that part in stock right now but you should check them from time to time. Keep in mind the 572 uses the same part (at least I'm pretty sure), so if you're searching look at both models.
ebay has almost all parts for sale
@@ImminentThreatDefense amigo usted sabe cuál es la medida del perno que yeba en el guardamonte o la manesilla de un rifle calibre 22 modelo 552 marca remintong gracias
@@JoseGutierrez-ov2yl Sorry no I don't that would be a special part. You could look at www.gunpartscorp.com to perhaps order one.
Just you went a little slower a d was more detailed oriented. I figured it out after dozen times of rewinding and watching again and again. I think someone with no gun experience would have many issues trying to follow this video.
Fair comment. I struggle with every video trying to balance detail with duration. I'm trying to provide educational content for firearms enthusiasts but at the same time not bore everyone to death. But for example the average viewing time for this video is about 35%, which is a little bit above average. Unfortunately, I can't tell from the TH-cam analytics how that's distributed. I suspect it's an average of people like you who watched 150% and 10 other viewers who watched about 5%. It's frustrating for me to create content if nobody watches it, but at the same time if I can help just a few people then I think I've achieved my goal. TH-cam is pushing developers to produce "shorts", video's less than 60 seconds in length, I'm not going there yet. Anyway, thanks for the comment I'm always trying to improve my content. If you had trouble with any aspect of the assembly, don't hesitate to reach out, I usually try to help or maybe I can even go through my rough video and find a clip that helps. Thanks for watching!
Hello friend, it is possible to buy the barrel of that rifle in the armory
They would be tough to find. Try GunPartsCorp.com, right now they are out of stock but keep checking they get used parts regularly.
What tool did you use to push in the safety spring detent ball
That's one of my replaceable pin punches. You can get them from Brownells 080-507-050WB one of my favorite tools. I replaced the steel pins they come with brass pins cut from brass rod stock of the correct diameter. I prefer to use brass whenever I can. Any brass punch is going to bend after very little use, but on these it's no problem just put in a new pin. Also the punch has a square shoulder so you don't risk over driving it and damaging the gun. Since the brass rod doesn't have a flanged head like the steel purpose built pins, I usually crimp the brass on one end with serrated pliers. But from time to time in my videos you'll see the brass pins fall out. Thanks for watching!
I cannot unscrew the take down screw. It is so tight, I am afraid I will break something. Suggestions?
Penetrating oil, my preference is Kroil but there are a number of other good ones out there. Getting the oil to the threads will be a bit of a challenge, get a needle tip bottle (hobby shop, Brownells, Amazon) and let gravity do the work. Brace the gun upside down, make several applications and let it soak over night. Soak time is important. Notice there is a steel collar in the stock, so place the oil between the collar and the screw not the collar and the wood. Then use a properly sized screw driver, one with a snug fit, preferably an armorer type with honed sides (Chapman or Magna-Tip). Either get a friend to help or clamp down the rifle so you can use two hands on the driver, less chance it'll slip and wreck the screw slot or the stock. Good luck, let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching
@@ImminentThreatDefense thank you sir! I received this gun as a Christmas present in 1964. First gun of many and has never been broken down like you are showing!. Have not shot it in probably 20 years. With this COVID mess and some extra time on hands, I have been ultra deep cleaning all my guns and finally got to my very first one. I seriously enjoy your video. I never knew how to break this gun down before.
@@willlowe1301 I got started with these videos for people in my family, working on family heirlooms. The one in the video is my brother-in-law's, he's had it forever. Really great to hear I've helped you take care of yours. Thanks.
Make sure you have a good screwdriver that fits the screw. Make sure the end of the screwdriver is not too thin. It should fit snuggly with no slop.
I think my bumper pad is in wrong but this didn't show the placement of it
5:02 in the video? You can see at 1:35 how I pulled the buffer out without first removing the buffer pad, that's the wrong way. The tab on the buffer goes under the buffer pad. they are oriented like I show at 5:02. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Amigo sabe que medida es el tornillo que yeba el guardamonte o manesilla por favor si sabe
👍
My trigger won't move
Push the safety from right to left? Hammer has to be cocked. If that's not it pull out the trigger group (see the video) and have a look, anything missing, broken or rusted?