Self-centering hinge drill bits. That's the name of the clever kit you were asking about, amigo. Your skills as a jack-of-all-trades is improving all the time. You did a nice job here.
Indeed this is the correct answer. A word to the wise, buy the name brand (Vix in the USA, sorry don't know the British equivalent), the off brands often aren't quite centered. That can be quite annoying. Or, do what I do, I simply use an awl to create a starting hole. Much quicker overall.
Add a horizontal bar across and between the 2 legs and you can set that 2mm lower to spread all that weight across the entire carpet too and ensure both legs are vertical and fully extended. The WC seat lid will sit against it too when in use.
David....tap info........remove the very end of your tap/ spigot...the very end from whence the wet stuff emerges...it will unscrew....remove the fine debris filter and any other bits you find from inside the business end of the spigot / tap...this will ease the back pressure caused by their inteference to the water flow and should stop the assembly being pushed of its push fitting.....phew....need a beer now..
2:50 "I have my sooper dooper squisher thing" 😂🙂 I gather you didn't want to say "caulking gun". TH-cam would probably have conniptions with both those words. 😉
I bought a special Hinge drill, it has an outer casing that retracts and fits the hole perfectly, so you place it in the hinge hole, then as you press down the drill bit pops down and makes the hole perfectly in the centre. I saw it on Greg Virgoes channel a few years ago when he did his build series, its come in very handy in our van build and around the house too.
I really think you need cross braces for each pair of legs to stop them trying to pull apart, they will, believe me! Fitting sturdy braces, to the bottom, front sides of the legs of course, would also allow you to fit them lower and take up the carpet thickness slack, 5 mill or whatever. Great vlog David, keep up the good work!
If you got two small circular neodymium magnets, you could recess them into the tops of the legs and the opposing part of the frame, so that when the legs are down, the magnets lock them in place. When you raise the bed, the principle of leverage would make it easy for the legs to fold back. If you got the right strength magnets, this might even happen with gravity.
I like your no nonsense vids, clear English and economy of words. there's so much hyperbole and over egging the pudding on youtube, 'awsome this and insane that' its all bollox really, but you do a great job in getting your content accross without resorting to all that. Wishing you continued success.
A good practice is to put a drop (or two) of wood glue in the screw holes before you put the screws in, that way any mistakes, minor cracks or slightly to large hole will not ruin your work. It can grab the screw making it slightly harder to remove but that is not really why you put it in there to begin with, is it. Hope it helps, good luck.
To mark the holes centered in the hinge holes put the hinge in place and push the crosspoint of the screwdriver into the countersunk part of the hinge and that'll guide the drill.
My father and I have had great results with sticking a screw into the Gunge gun tube nozzle. It does solidify around the screw but you can with admittedly a little effort pull the screw out and you’ve got a new channel to apply the gunk through. Not sure if this’ll be of assistance in the future but I thought I’d mention it. Ben from Australia 🇦🇺
If you fit some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom of the legs, they will fit perfectly and be more resistant to sliding on the carpet when you pull the bed out perhaps
A bit of paint that you get color matched at any decent hardware shop and a couple struts between the new legs for rigidity and additional support, and I think you're all set!
The problem with joining the legs together is it will provide an obstruction where the user's legs naturally go when cooking which is liable to push the legs back under.
Hi, the cheapest and easiest way to center the drill bit for the hole is to buy your self a bradawl. Just make a small hole in the centre and the drill bit will locate in that hole . I always use a piece of masking tape wrapped around the end of the drill bit as a gauge for the drilling depth. - Bob's your uncle.😏
I use a screw from the "Odds and s*ds" tin that is full of screws and nails but somehow never matching ones when you need to use 2 or more. Odd what you accumulate over the years.
If you put your silicone products in the freezer you will be able to use them after 10 years or longer. I usually cut the empty part of the tube off to save space.
You can pick something up that I call a drill guide that you lay flat on the surface you want to drill. It will guide the drill at 0, 30 and 45 degree angles. They cost around 16-40 quid, depending on their size. It’s a handy thing to keep in your aresenal of tools for the odd building and repair jobs that you do.
You mentioned in a previous episode about sitting in the van looking out the back and the backrest of the front chairs being uncomfortable. I would suggest a 'foam wedge pillow' (2x2ft with a 1ft gradient). The only problem with that is it requires a cover (maybe sis could help as she did with the curtains? Good old sis!), you could then just prop pillow your lower back for comfort. A wedge pillow is also good for sleeping propped up with a cold or sinus troubles.
Thanks - Need to extend the bed length in my Vanagon ( I'm 6 foot 8) and your efforts have just saved me a whole lot of extra brain use time in designing it.
I would have put the legs further from the outside edges so as to reduce the span with no support under. This then could have been in the spaces making drilling easier. Still nice work though. I love this channel
Self centering drill bits have been around for a while. I still use your approach and hope for the best while quietly convincing myself I got this. I have many "oops, close enough" moments under my belt😂
Jobs well done David. A tip from another TH-cam channel to avoid faffing about with a pice of plastic over your mastic / silicon gun is to insert a screw of the same diameter as the hole (needs to be about 3cm long). When you need to use the mastic, just pull out the screw and the clever bit is that the thread then pulls out the dried up plug with it! Just unscrew the dried up plug and reuse. It also looks neater hanging up. To get the centre oh a hole use a bradawl (sharp, pointy tool) to dent the wood first, then drill.
David, good work! You obviously aren't the most expeienced DIY-er, but that's how we all started and the trick is having the confidence to just blunder on and accept you will have to live with a few failures with many more wins to compensate that with! May I give you a few simple tips? - If you draw a circle in which to drill (e.g. the screwhole for a hinge), draw a + through it (larger than the circle), it is much easier to see where to position the drill. If you still have a problem with wandering drill bits, get a pointed object like an awl to make a dent first. Wood drills work too, but I never use them under 6mm as they break too easy. -To not drill into the wood too deep, the trick you did is fine, but for longer drills this won't work. The trick is to get a piece of painters tape and wrap it onto the drill bit as a visual guide of how deep you can go. - Good quality screws really help. What makes a good quality screw? Anything you got with sonething cheap in a flimsy plastic package will almost certainly be not, vut a small boc of 50 screws from the DIY store which isn't a lot cheaper than the rest, usually is. Apart from length, the width also matters, and 4mm screws will bite more than 3mm. That is the outer diameter, you never predrill over the "inner" diameter. -For this application (a hinge) going at a bit of an angle with the screws is no problem, as long as the heads don't come out of the front of the hinge. Say 20° off is acceptable. But it might look funny. They way you made that bedframe double in width by sliding it out is genius, I would never have thought of that! Happy DIY-ing
David, thank you for a great 36 minutes. You can always use a nail and hammer to make your pilot hole. Really enjoyed that and I even learn something each and every DYI from You. Janet
When you're setting those hinges, first mount the hinge to the lower leg. Then lift the lower leg into a tilted position as close to vertical as possible to line the pieces up (think part way thru it's range of motion) and support it with scrap. Then position and mark the other half of the hinge. Once the hinge is folded and the faces are flat on your pieces, it will have to fold correctly no matter how crooked your frame.
1:32 Lools as though it's supposed to have two o-rings - there's asecond groove on the outer side of the one with your solo o-ring. And the rest of it isn't a thread, as it isn't continuous.
LOL, actually I did LOL!!! Wrong screws, *#*#* - reminded me of a few of my own challenges. Thank you for this and great finish. Always been a Cruising the Cut fan and discovered a thumbnail yesterday while surfing and there you were on this channel. Take care!
I trick I've learned at our carpentry lessons in high school for the drill not to dance on the surface when you start drilling is to draw a circle using the hole in the hinge as a template, then eyeball the center of circle and mark it with the pencil, then take a nail and with the sharp end dent the wood right in the center spot by pressing hard with the nail. Now you have a starting point for your drill right where you want it.
There is a gadget to get into tight spaces, it is called a flexible shaft or right angle flex shaft. DeWalt for example make one. The challenge is that the end is designed for 1/4in hex drive bits. You would need to get special drill bits with 1/4in hex drive ends. Available, but extra cost.
A little tip for successful reuse of a tube o' gunge - after use, I push a long thick nail with a large head in the sealant tube nozzle. That way you can pull out the nail with a pair of pliers and it will always leave a clear passage for gunge to come out....
As someone that worked as a joiner for over 40 years a respectful couple of pointers. You asked if there is a way to get the drill hole to line up with the centre of the hole? You do get hinge drill bits that do that. Second, the screws that came with your hinges are rubbish,( made out of inferior metal and the depth of thread is small, hence the grip is rubbish). You are better off throwing those screws away and using chipboard screws such as Reissers that have much better accuracy and depth of thread. Third, the hinges you have used are the wrong ones. If you used a T type hinge it would give way more fixing points and way more strength,( you can get smaller nicely finished ones, they are not all industrial looking. Also, I would have put a brace across the bottom of the legs as later you are inevitably going to end up with a lot of pressure on the hinges when the legs get snagged on the carpet. With those screws that will give you problems. Like I say, just some advice and feel free to take it or not, thats up to you.
Self-centering drill bits. There are multiple manufacturers, but below is a set by Bosch. BOSCH CC2430 3-Piece Clic-Change 1/4 In. Self-Centering Drill Bit Assorted Set
Absolutely Hilarious ! You captured everyone's nightmare in the extreme, but you woke up to find it worked in the end Well done, Another battle won ! Now how to fix the silicone gun ? You could always try the, nail in the end of the nozzle, trick ? Happy DIY - ing David ! Stu xx
There are drill bits called "Vix bits", in the U.S. which center themselves on the hinge hole, and then the spring loaded bit plunges down cutting the hole exactly in the center.
Traveling across the US in a camper as a child, my dad always commented, "How did settlers go west without paper towels." I would suggest the same about duct tape. My grandparent farmers used binder twine and bailing wire.
To line the drill up in the centre of the marked hinge hole, use a centre punch to put a "dent" in the exact centre. The drill will then naturally find the "dent" and be centred accurately
Use a spring assisted center punch to put a dent in the wood where you want to put the drill bit. It's used in metal working, but it should be fine for helping you line up your drill bit and keep it from walking around before you drill.
The next time you buy a tube of gunge get a handful of nozzles as well, when you’ve finished your gunging job unscrew and throw away the nozzle and cover the end of the tube instead. Sometimes the end of the tube will dry up but that is easier to deal with.
David; you can get a center punch which has a conical sleeve around a spring-loaded rod. The conical part sits in the hinge hole, and when you tap the rod, you get a dimple in the exact center of the hole.
There is a drill bit that fits in the hinge hole with a sleeve on it. Door hangers have a set of them 3 sizes. They center perfectly. What is a hinge drill bit? Hinge drill bits are specialised drill bits designed to accurately drill holes in frames, doors, drawers and more for hinges. These drill bits feature a centre point that helps to guide the drill bit into the wood and prevent it from wandering, and create precise, clean holes for hinges.
I know it's a bit late for you now but there are Self Centering Bits where you can hold the Hinge in place and the Bit will drill in the center of the hole. The problem then is keeping the hinge where it's supposed to be (although there are these things call clamps which can help).
Rather than putting a strut across the bottom, if you put it near the top with a handle, you could probably open and close one-handed. You could also attach some elastic on the face over the hinge gap to help pull them out without making them stand out. If the faucet doesn't stick, you can try Quicksteel (spelling and name may vary). It's a metalised two-part putty (both parts in the same stick, they just get mixed together). Just sand the inside of the part that popped off with coarse sandpaper, mix a little of the putty, smear it on, squish them together and let it cure. It is food safe and holds very well.
I mean this in the kindest manner, "I’d hate to hire you by the hour." You take great care with things.
10 mins of work, crammed into 35 mins. But "all done in the best possible taste" 🙂
Lol.. the answer to life and everything is now not 42, but a hammer and kitchen towel. ....luv it!
“Come apart, you swine,” is now part of my lexicon. Love it! I’m totally using this from now on. 😂❤ 🐷
😁
Self-centering hinge drill bits.
That's the name of the clever kit you were asking about, amigo.
Your skills as a jack-of-all-trades is improving all the time. You did a nice job here.
Indeed this is the correct answer. A word to the wise, buy the name brand (Vix in the USA, sorry don't know the British equivalent), the off brands often aren't quite centered. That can be quite annoying. Or, do what I do, I simply use an awl to create a starting hole. Much quicker overall.
It's encouraging to know I'm not alone in postponing my DIY projects for months. 😄
Why do I get a feeling of terror when I see David and a circular saw together.
Add a horizontal bar across and between the 2 legs and you can set that 2mm lower to spread all that weight across the entire carpet too and ensure both legs are vertical and fully extended. The WC seat lid will sit against it too when in use.
You cannot beat a bit of Vandemonium on a Tuesday evening 😂
The enduring sawdust reminds me of the old luggage where my parents found rice for decades after their 1955 wedding.
David....tap info........remove the very end of your tap/ spigot...the very end from whence the wet stuff emerges...it will unscrew....remove the fine debris filter and any other bits you find from inside the business end of the spigot / tap...this will ease the back pressure caused by their inteference to the water flow and should stop the assembly being pushed of its push fitting.....phew....need a beer now..
Aha! Good idea!
🤣
Having a beer is always a very excellent idea. Cheers!
“That is heroic!” Needs to be a Vandemonium t-shirt!
Haha maybe I will sort that!
@@VandemoniumI would love to have that on an official vandemonium t-shirt!!!!😅😊😊
"I'm a very happy bunny!" And is that officially how you'd like us to refer to you going forward?
Yes. Every time.
@@Vandemonium 🐇💖
@@VandemoniumOh bunny, my bunny .... wait, that sounds a bit wrong. Slightly misquoted, or something :D
In the States we’d call you a “ Happy camper”.
As a moniker, David is a bit common. However, Happy Bunny, now that’s a name to remember.
2:50 "I have my sooper dooper squisher thing" 😂🙂 I gather you didn't want to say "caulking gun". TH-cam would probably have conniptions with both those words. 😉
David, Thank you for a really funny and entertaining half an hour - I chuckled all the way through!
That is splendid to hear!
@@VandemoniumI thought you were being very thoughtful throughout.
I bought a special Hinge drill, it has an outer casing that retracts and fits the hole perfectly, so you place it in the hinge hole, then as you press down the drill bit pops down and makes the hole perfectly in the centre. I saw it on Greg Virgoes channel a few years ago when he did his build series, its come in very handy in our van build and around the house too.
Successful hingeing, a bit of White Snake...solid video.
"This is all going to plan...which puzzles me."
😁
Sawdust is like Easter grass or glitter, it never ever truly goes away
Or in Australia it would be the same as outback bull dust.
Add sand to that - after you have been on a beach somewhere! It's worse than an invasive weed in a garden!
Sawdust is man glitter.😏
I really think you need cross braces for each pair of legs to stop them trying to pull apart, they will, believe me! Fitting sturdy braces, to the bottom, front sides of the legs of course, would also allow you to fit them lower and take up the carpet thickness slack, 5 mill or whatever. Great vlog David, keep up the good work!
Your technical terms such as, supper duper squishy thing, are most certainly those of a seasoned professional. I'm very much impressed.
If you got two small circular neodymium magnets, you could recess them into the tops of the legs and the opposing part of the frame, so that when the legs are down, the magnets lock them in place. When you raise the bed, the principle of leverage would make it easy for the legs to fold back. If you got the right strength magnets, this might even happen with gravity.
I like your no nonsense vids, clear English and economy of words. there's so much hyperbole and over egging the pudding on youtube, 'awsome this and insane that' its all bollox really, but you do a great job in getting your content accross without resorting to all that. Wishing you continued success.
Thanks! 😃
A good practice is to put a drop (or two) of wood glue in the screw holes before you put the screws in, that way any mistakes, minor cracks or slightly to large hole will not ruin your work. It can grab the screw making it slightly harder to remove but that is not really why you put it in there to begin with, is it. Hope it helps, good luck.
Always a great mental health break watching anything by David!
That was pure vandemonium!!!! If I do say so myself, well done lad!!!
Mr Johns, you are the most skilled content creator known to mankind...happy having my TH-cam acount restored
Squisher thing, classic,love it.😂😂
To mark the holes centered in the hinge holes put the hinge in place and push the crosspoint of the screwdriver into the countersunk part of the hinge and that'll guide the drill.
My father and I have had great results with sticking a screw into the Gunge gun tube nozzle.
It does solidify around the screw but you can with admittedly a little effort pull the screw out and you’ve got a new channel to apply the gunk through.
Not sure if this’ll be of assistance in the future but I thought I’d mention it.
Ben from Australia 🇦🇺
New words for the Oxford Dictionary: "Sitable" (31.06), "Straightforwardly" (33.07). Thank you, David!
David, you are a joy. 🙂 Excellent. I chuckled throughout. Good job, well done.
Thank you kindly!
If you fit some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom of the legs, they will fit perfectly and be more resistant to sliding on the carpet when you pull the bed out perhaps
Nice idea!
A bit of paint that you get color matched at any decent hardware shop and a couple struts between the new legs for rigidity and additional support, and I think you're all set!
The problem with joining the legs together is it will provide an obstruction where the user's legs naturally go when cooking which is liable to push the legs back under.
Hi, the cheapest and easiest way to center the drill bit for the hole is to buy your self a bradawl. Just make a small hole in the centre and the drill bit will locate in that hole . I always use a piece of masking tape wrapped around the end of the drill bit as a gauge for the drilling depth. - Bob's your uncle.😏
A joy to watch, a welcome change from these super efficient DIYers that make you feel inadequate. A job well done sir 😊
That’s a backhanded compliment but I’ll take it!! 🤣🤣🤣
Meant in the nicest possible way 😂
My dad taught me to always put a thick nail on the end of the caulk tube.
Works every time.
That’s a good idea. I will have to buy some nails.
I use a screw from the "Odds and s*ds" tin that is full of screws and nails but somehow never matching ones when you need to use 2 or more. Odd what you accumulate over the years.
Yes, nail or screw. It not only seals the end, brushes a opening down far enough to not go solid.
@@Vandemonium yep - screw it ‼️😀😀😀
I keep a stock of spare nozzles. Screw the old one off and fit an unused one
Usually I put a long screw in the top of the sealant tube to make it easier to unblock the next time I use it.
If you put your silicone products in the freezer you will be able to use them after 10 years or longer. I usually cut the empty part of the tube off to save space.
You can pick something up that I call a drill guide that you lay flat on the surface you want to drill. It will guide the drill at 0, 30 and 45 degree angles. They cost around 16-40 quid, depending on their size. It’s a handy thing to keep in your aresenal of tools for the odd building and repair jobs that you do.
That sounds great!
Could just imagine if the tap was put on upside down 😂 another great DIY vlog my good sir!
Then it would be a drinking fountain or perhaps a 'water feature'. Anything can be made to sound like a good thing. 😀
Love a bit of Vandemonium pandemonium. Very entertaining.
A transfer punch finds the center of the hole and makes a dent. It's still up to you to drill in the dent, but that's as good as it gets.
As a carpenter, this was very entertaining 😁
Good job though 👍
Thanks! 👍
Very nice work there.
Happy to see you did what it takes to get it right.
Happy Camping!
Thanks 👍
Oh, the joy of being a procrastinator. I may be the queen. At least it makes the completed task that much more exciting. Good job!
You mentioned in a previous episode about sitting in the van looking out the back and the backrest of the front chairs being uncomfortable. I would suggest a 'foam wedge pillow' (2x2ft with a 1ft gradient). The only problem with that is it requires a cover (maybe sis could help as she did with the curtains? Good old sis!), you could then just prop pillow your lower back for comfort. A wedge pillow is also good for sleeping propped up with a cold or sinus troubles.
Good job Ole chap!
I too was betrayed by my sink tap recently, they're treacherous wee things 😢
Grrrrrrrr
Thanks - Need to extend the bed length in my Vanagon ( I'm 6 foot 8) and your efforts have just saved me a whole lot of extra brain use time in designing it.
Glad it helped 😀
I was very reassured that you gave a thumbs up after using the drop saw, to confirm it was still attached !!😂
I would have put the legs further from the outside edges so as to reduce the span with no support under. This then could have been in the spaces making drilling easier. Still nice work though. I love this channel
Hiya David, "Don't you just love it, when a plan comes together!"
Others may have said, but with those squeezy gun tube things, put a nail in the end when you're done and just remove when you need to use it again.
Self centering drill bits have been around for a while. I still use your approach and hope for the best while quietly convincing myself I got this. I have many "oops, close enough" moments under my belt😂
Jobs well done David. A tip from another TH-cam channel to avoid faffing about with a pice of plastic over your mastic / silicon gun is to insert a screw of the same diameter as the hole (needs to be about 3cm long). When you need to use the mastic, just pull out the screw and the clever bit is that the thread then pulls out the dried up plug with it! Just unscrew the dried up plug and reuse. It also looks neater hanging up. To get the centre oh a hole use a bradawl (sharp, pointy tool) to dent the wood first, then drill.
Thank you, I think we are kindred spirits with DIY,even wiring a plug throws up all sorts of danger!!
4 small door lock bolts - one at the top of each leg where it hinges, to stop them moving when you pull them out
Unfortunately there's insufficient evidence width to attach the bolts
David, good work! You obviously aren't the most expeienced DIY-er, but that's how we all started and the trick is having the confidence to just blunder on and accept you will have to live with a few failures with many more wins to compensate that with!
May I give you a few simple tips?
- If you draw a circle in which to drill (e.g. the screwhole for a hinge), draw a + through it (larger than the circle), it is much easier to see where to position the drill. If you still have a problem with wandering drill bits, get a pointed object like an awl to make a dent first. Wood drills work too, but I never use them under 6mm as they break too easy.
-To not drill into the wood too deep, the trick you did is fine, but for longer drills this won't work. The trick is to get a piece of painters tape and wrap it onto the drill bit as a visual guide of how deep you can go.
- Good quality screws really help. What makes a good quality screw? Anything you got with sonething cheap in a flimsy plastic package will almost certainly be not, vut a small boc of 50 screws from the DIY store which isn't a lot cheaper than the rest, usually is.
Apart from length, the width also matters, and 4mm screws will bite more than 3mm. That is the outer diameter, you never predrill over the "inner" diameter.
-For this application (a hinge) going at a bit of an angle with the screws is no problem, as long as the heads don't come out of the front of the hinge. Say 20° off is acceptable. But it might look funny.
They way you made that bedframe double in width by sliding it out is genius, I would never have thought of that!
Happy DIY-ing
Thank you 🙏
David, thank you for a great 36 minutes. You can always use a nail and hammer to make your pilot hole. Really enjoyed that and I even learn something each and every DYI from You. Janet
Thank you ☺️
When you're setting those hinges, first mount the hinge to the lower leg. Then lift the lower leg into a tilted position as close to vertical as possible to line the pieces up (think part way thru it's range of motion) and support it with scrap. Then position and mark the other half of the hinge. Once the hinge is folded and the faces are flat on your pieces, it will have to fold correctly no matter how crooked your frame.
You could always paint the legs with a complimentary color and make it a feature. :) Job well done!
1:32 Lools as though it's supposed to have two o-rings - there's asecond groove on the outer side of the one with your solo o-ring. And the rest of it isn't a thread, as it isn't continuous.
LOL, actually I did LOL!!! Wrong screws, *#*#* - reminded me of a few of my own challenges. Thank you for this and great finish. Always been a Cruising the Cut fan and discovered a thumbnail yesterday while surfing and there you were on this channel. Take care!
Welcome along!
I trick I've learned at our carpentry lessons in high school for the drill not to dance on the surface when you start drilling is to draw a circle using the hole in the hinge as a template, then eyeball the center of circle and mark it with the pencil, then take a nail and with the sharp end dent the wood right in the center spot by pressing hard with the nail. Now you have a starting point for your drill right where you want it.
There is a gadget to get into tight spaces, it is called a flexible shaft or right angle flex shaft. DeWalt for example make one. The challenge is that the end is designed for 1/4in hex drive bits. You would need to get special drill bits with 1/4in hex drive ends. Available, but extra cost.
Considering your carpentry skill level, you are a brave and creative soul. Well done!
Use a broddle to poke a dent in the wood before drilling
Action replay! Hilarious! Well done on the folding legs. Hope the spigot worksproperly now too.
A little tip for successful reuse of a tube o' gunge - after use, I push a long thick nail with a large head in the sealant tube nozzle. That way you can pull out the nail with a pair of pliers and it will always leave a clear passage for gunge to come out....
As someone that worked as a joiner for over 40 years a respectful couple of pointers. You asked if there is a way to get the drill hole to line up with the centre of the hole? You do get hinge drill bits that do that. Second, the screws that came with your hinges are rubbish,( made out of inferior metal and the depth of thread is small, hence the grip is rubbish). You are better off throwing those screws away and using chipboard screws such as Reissers that have much better accuracy and depth of thread. Third, the hinges you have used are the wrong ones. If you used a T type hinge it would give way more fixing points and way more strength,( you can get smaller nicely finished ones, they are not all industrial looking. Also, I would have put a brace across the bottom of the legs as later you are inevitably going to end up with a lot of pressure on the hinges when the legs get snagged on the carpet. With those screws that will give you problems. Like I say, just some advice and feel free to take it or not, thats up to you.
Thanks for the tips!
You could have used some PTFE tape to build up the thread and the top of the tap would screw onto the body of the tap
That was positively heroic indeed, well done!
Self-centering drill bits. There are multiple manufacturers, but below is a set by Bosch.
BOSCH CC2430 3-Piece Clic-Change 1/4 In. Self-Centering Drill Bit Assorted Set
Positively heroic indeed! I love those interlacing slats, I have never seen a solution like that before!
Absolutely Hilarious ! You captured everyone's nightmare in the extreme, but you woke up to find it worked in the end
Well done, Another battle won ! Now how to fix the silicone gun ?
You could always try the, nail in the end of the nozzle, trick ?
Happy DIY - ing David !
Stu xx
David, regarding drills to aim for the centre of a hinge hole, they are called hinge drills, or self centering drills.
Regunging and squisher thing ,😂😂brilliant.😂
There are drill bits called "Vix bits", in the U.S. which center themselves on the hinge hole, and then the spring loaded bit plunges down cutting the hole exactly in the center.
The description is Bosch cc2430 3 piece clic-change 1/4" self centering drill bit.
Traveling across the US in a camper as a child, my dad always commented, "How did settlers go west without paper towels." I would suggest the same about duct tape. My grandparent farmers used binder twine and bailing wire.
So happy to see you eventually got around to the van. I like your haircut!
Cheers
You make me want to come to England and wander the canals for a time
Drive a small nail for your pilot hole! Put little feet on the bottom of the posts.
To line the drill up in the centre of the marked hinge hole, use a centre punch to put a "dent" in the exact centre. The drill will then naturally find the "dent" and be centred accurately
Use a spring assisted center punch to put a dent in the wood where you want to put the drill bit. It's used in metal working, but it should be fine for helping you line up your drill bit and keep it from walking around before you drill.
ACTION REPLAY 😂 I’d like to see more of those in future videos!
Insert a screw into the end of your nozzle it will prevent it being blocked.
The next time you buy a tube of gunge get a handful of nozzles as well, when you’ve finished your gunging job unscrew and throw away the nozzle and cover the end of the tube instead. Sometimes the end of the tube will dry up but that is easier to deal with.
Put a screw in the end of the tube when storing
Well done. Clever man. You are a dab hand at all trades. Very enjoyable to watch. Thank you.
David; you can get a center punch which has a conical sleeve around a spring-loaded rod. The conical part sits in the hinge hole, and when you tap the rod, you get a dimple in the exact center of the hole.
David, For storage, leave a suitably sized nail in the nozzle of an opened caulk tube.
Try PTF tape around tap joint.
Cling flim over nozzle thread on tube, then clean, nozzle out, & screw over cling film.
Bits of sawdust could be bore-dust aka woodworm poop 😊 Maybe the legs need a cross brace? Thank you for the best half hour of my day!
There is a drill bit that fits in the hinge hole with a sleeve on it. Door hangers have a set of them 3 sizes. They center perfectly.
What is a hinge drill bit?
Hinge drill bits are specialised drill bits designed to accurately drill holes in frames, doors, drawers and more for hinges. These drill bits feature a centre point that helps to guide the drill bit into the wood and prevent it from wandering, and create precise, clean holes for hinges.
To center the screw in the hole, use a metal center punch aligned carefully and tapped into the wood a little to create a guide hole for the screw.
They make a center drill bit for hinges. It's a real bit And a sliding peace
You could also put adhesive felt pads on the bottom of the legs to allow for the compression of the legs, and the change in height.
I know it's a bit late for you now but there are Self Centering Bits where you can hold the Hinge in place and the Bit will drill in the center of the hole. The problem then is keeping the hinge where it's supposed to be (although there are these things call clamps which can help).
Rather than putting a strut across the bottom, if you put it near the top with a handle, you could probably open and close one-handed. You could also attach some elastic on the face over the hinge gap to help pull them out without making them stand out.
If the faucet doesn't stick, you can try Quicksteel (spelling and name may vary). It's a metalised two-part putty (both parts in the same stick, they just get mixed together). Just sand the inside of the part that popped off with coarse sandpaper, mix a little of the putty, smear it on, squish them together and let it cure. It is food safe and holds very well.
I like the nice shade of blue paint which adds colour to the sensible grey fabric.