Awesome video! I just did my son's 96 F-350. I was able to remove the pitman arm from the gear box and leave it attached on the other end and just used zip ties to hold up out of the way until i got steering box dropped out of the way and replaced with new one. Instructions were perfect. He wasn't able to turn in either direction. Now it turns like butter. Thank you so much!
this is a very thorough video that not only the provided clear step-by-step instructions on how to do it, but also the confidence in being able to do it myself. thank you for posting this!!
Great video and helped a bunch and you have a perfect voice to explain things. Thanks for taking your time and effort to show us rookies how it's done.
😊😊😊.... Sir, really appreciate you taking the time to make this vid...1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck and 143,000 miles on the clock. ...30 yrs old parts are just worn out...Basically, from the Firewall, all the steering parts, Gearbox and Pump needs replacement...And all associated Bushings... Trk steering wheel is needing 'bout a 1/4" or so to the right to drive straight down the road...You can feel the "play" in the Gearbox on acceleration and stopping...Uggghh, and Front wheel bearings needs changing...Betsey LuLu lived a hard life before I got her....
Awesome! I replaced the gear box on my '95 F150 yesterday. I followed your video exactly and it turned out to be one of the easiest R&Rs that I've done. Showing all the required tools and sizes helped tremendously. I'm glad you showed using the crow's foot wrenches. There is NO room to use a flare nut wrench and it was so easy with the crow's foot! Thanks! Tools by Dean - Authorized Matco Tools Distributor
Great guide! I just did this job on my buddy's Bronco. Super easy, only problem I ran into is the rag joint was rusted to the old steering box and I couldn't separate it in place so I had to remove the steering box and steering shaft as one piece, but once it was off the truck and I had room to work I got it off no problem. In my opinion you don't really need to tie the steering wheel up, the steering lock holds it straight enough. You can only put the rag joint on the steering box one way because one side of the shaft has a flat spot, so you don't have to worry about getting it wrong and throwing the alignment off. Just make sure the steering lock engages before taking it apart because otherwise there's nothing stopping the wheel from spinning too far and ruining the clock spring.
Thanks for the helpful vid. Just did our 86 Bullnose with a Blue Top box. Red Head and Blue Top are run by cousins. You do talk a lot but it's good info. Thanks for the torque specs too.
Thank you. You have no idea how much easier this videro made the job. incidentally, on the fluid nuts, they're not metric. they are 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.
Awesome video. I'm about to attempt this on my 2003 F-150. the box looks pretty much identical and from what I've seen being under the hood and under the vehicle it's the same process. this made it much easier for me by showing the steps, the first time is always the slowest while trying to figure it out.
Man thanks for the video! I think mine is out. I heard a pop while turning the wheel and then it was easy to turn one way and then hard to turn back and then easy again. This will help me a lot if it turns out this is my problem. Thanks again! Great Job & Great Video!!
Did you end up replacing the pump? I am experiencing the same symptoms as you. My 1989 F-250 460 C.I.D has been leaking for years. I had someone overfill my power steering fluid reservoir and I think it popped a seal down in the gearbox. Did you find out what was wrong with yours?
I did this just today. My steering wheel has always been straight (just with lots of play). Now with the new box the wheel is turned right when going straight. Tracks fine, just offcenter steering wheel. I will admit that this was my first time on this particular project and I didn't find your video until after the fact. I wasn't as cautious with the steering wheel position. The steering shaft and pitman arm appear to only go on one way, so I assumed the steering wheel would go back to where it should've been originally, but with the new box. Can you offer any help? What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
Once again, thanks so much for posting these, I have referred back to your videos time and time again in the restoration of my 96, and it has many of the similar problems. Did a column swap today in fact, the bushings were destroyed in the tilt tube. Drives a lot better! and steering box is next..so here I am again :)
Thanks for making the video, it helped so much. I went step by step, everything almost worked out perfectly. I ran into a snag where the pitman arm wouldn't come off the shaft. I broke a pitman arm puller trying to get it off, it was froze on. I had to use a press to get it off. Once off, I found red loc-tite in the splines. Hopefully this doesn't happen to anyone else! Thanks so much!
I hate red loctite. I swear that shit was made by the devil himself. I swore I'd never use it, and I've had nothing but headaches and surprise broken bolts due to that crap.
Thanks for the video! I'll be changing out the steering gearbox in my '94 F-150 this Fall, and I'm 100% confident after watching this video. There's a LOT of slop in the steering, and I'm hoping this will take a lot of it out.
When I was watching this I got a little bit over excited and thought I could do this job. One little tid bit I could advise you with? If you screw the castle nut on a 1/2 or 3/4 turn on backwards and strike it with any old hammer it will work for these Ford's, but I wouldn't recommend a heavy duty hammer. Damaging threads is not a fun game. Hopefully I could help you save time and money done the road or to whoever reads this!😎 PS excellent job man
I just swapped a rebuilt box into my 92 F150. Went with a cardone re-manufactured unit, despite doing research and knowing about some negative reviews. I saw more good than bad, so I went for it. Just finished it up this morning and I'm not pleased, its making some binding noises. Steers fine, just some abnormal chatter. Checked all the hardware, everything is tight. Should have went with a red head!
My Question Exactly, he's to excited with a low intellect !! If your gonna mention any socket sizes, any torques spes amounts, give all sizes and torques needed.... daw..
Is your steering shaft bolt accessible from the top of the truck or bottom when I pulled the plastic back no bolt but when I went under my truck I could easily see the bolt just over my head so I’m confused
Great video, I'm about to install a Redhead box on my 2003 f250. I have a question, How did you hold the pitman to torque to 200 ft-lbs.( my torgue wrench maxes out at 110 ft-bls.) did you hold the arm some how? Vice? I don't think you worked against the steering box.
Do you have the truck running when you first start bleeding the air with the drag link disconnected? You didn't say. You only said it was running when you reconnect it.
What do I need to do if mine leaks a quart I’ve already went threw the pump and lines where does it normally leak I heard ford had a recall on my 1986 f250 for leaking at the pivot arm or something
Having trouble with getting box input shaft to fit into the flex coupler. I've read online people suggesting screw driver to tapping with hammer until it goes into place
@@Foxboss9 Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna try centering the input shaft, then try to put coupler in place. Had a hard time finding spring clamp for pressure hose. I think I'll be able find one tomorrow
Good video, but didn't have what I was looking for. Did the lines have o rings on the steering box end? And what do you tighten them to on the steering box end? I put mine back together according correctly from what I can tell but the brand new lines leaked at the steering box, up around the line and out the top between the line and nut.
That's a sensitive area for a couple of reasons. When they staring boxes are remanufactured, and I'm referring to the cheap ones that you normally get at the auto parts store, that area is always part of the casting that seems to be slightly neglected during the rebuild. Meaning that the threads usually get a little bit more war down during the cleaning and reconditioning of the casting of the gearbox. That's usually why you'll find new fittings with your newly remanufactured gearbox as they you sealants and other things too basically put adapters in that have good threads so your lines can connect the way that they should. Unfortunately, they don't always get it right. Also, contributing to why they like the leak there is the lines themselves that are on the vehicle going to the gearbox have a tendency to be distorted or twisted in the area in which they need to seat. So basically, there's a good chance that if you don't have a good remanufactured gearbox like the one that I used, and if you don't have brand new power steering lines, they could be prone to leaking. Also with all the different changes that they made over the years you may want to make sure that your old gear box looks absolutely identical in every way especially at the fittings to ensure your power steering lines match up correctly as some of them were sleeved deeper or more shallow than others meaning that shoulder that's on the power steering line has a tendency sometimes to either bottom out too soon or not seat at all because it's too short based on what you were given. And finally the last thing that I've always noticed with acting the lines is that it seems like I'm always tightening it more than I feel comfortable doing to get it to seal off. This is just what I've run into in the past, it never seems to be as easy to put on a new power steering box compared to let's say an alternator. There always seems to be a little bit of play and a little bit of leakage that needs to be addressed with those lines. Good luck
Probably the best video related to this topic on YT. Quick question: I have a power steering leak and already replaced high pressure hose and reservoir gaskets, but still leaks. Seems to be leaking from that steering box where it connects to the Pitman arm, is it likely that the steering box is where the leak is?
My center link is stuck? My pitman arm isn’t dropping it maybe it’s a crap? Lol got 2 different size. Will buy another one the 2 I got is rentals.. may get pickle fork and bang it with a sledge let you know how it goes.
I'm in the middle of doing this, plus a radiator swap. My steering wheel has always been off about 45 degrees. I want to correct that. 91 Ford Bronco 6" procomp lift, running 35" bfg km2's.
what happens if you got the gear box still on the arm and spin the wheel,this is my first time doing this and i moved the steering wheel so i can try n get that bolt off to get the pittmen arm off my wheel spins all the way around to the left but no the right,i have my hole center link off
I have pulled the pitman arm from the gear shaft while still underneath, and then put it back on while it was still in place. after installing the new steering gear assembly.
I can’t get the line out of the box. It’s loose but the metal line is stuck inside the box. Talking about those you used the crow wrench on. How do I get that out?
Just way going back and forth until they come loose if not they may be rusted and corroded in the gearbox and at that point they're going to need replaced
Excellent video! I have a question about play in my 94 F150 steering. I have narrowed the play down to either the box or the steering wheel shaft. Cannot really determine if the looseness is coming from the box or above through the shaft. Can twist the shaft back and forth quite a bit by hand. There is a noticeable bang/clunk at times in the front end while hitting dips and potholes and I'm wondering if the box would cause this? Thanks again for all your valuable information!
J sapien my guess between those two things would be the box.. Noise during bumps is most likely suspension issues.. Check I-beam inner pivot bushings an ball joints... Good luck.
Foxboss9 thank you, I do have a tiny amount of play in one upper ball joint so I'm guessing Itd be beneficial to replace them all as preventative maintenance? I'm just curious if the box can have enough slop to actually bang/clunk on a dip. With wheels in air I can easily move whole steering system back and forth maybe 2-3 inches. New pivot bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and drag link. Was told pitman arm may have play, Is this possible considering it seems to be a machined part with no joint per session?
J sapien I've never really had a box that has had so much play that would cause it to clunk. The amount of slop that would have to be between the teeth to make a clunk sound would be pretty substantial and it would almost have to have a tooth missing. Make sure to go over everything suspension wise to ensure that there is not something else at play here. Make sure the gearbox is tight against the frame rail, ball joints definitely make clunks, definitely replace any tie rod end or pitman arm that may have play in it, make sure the shocks and bushings for the shocks are all in good shape, and look at the Springs to make sure that they don't have a crack that may not be noticeable at first usually that happens at the ends and sometimes it can't be seen easily. Unfortunately, I don't have a better answer then that. Good luck and let me know what you find.
Well, you can access the bolt from underneath or you can rotate your steering wheel until the bolt face is up. The thing to remember is once you disconnect you cannot move anything in your steering linkage going to your wheels or your steering wheel itself until you bolt it all back together again exactly like you took it off.
Great video. I have an 88 f250 with the original 460 I got 235000 miles on it. My oil pressure gage is Marking right under the N for normal. Should I be worried? I'm running 10/40 full synthetic
I replaced one on my 91 and I broke the Pitman arm puller. I had to buy another one. I then realized that Ford uses a very strong Lock tight. So what I did was heat up the shaft at the pitman arm. Once I did that it came off real easy. I didn't heat that much just enough to soften the Loctite.
when putting the gearbox in, I put a bolt in starting a the gearbox, not frame, and used that to easily slide into the bolt holes and basically hold the gearbox up. Then put other bolts in correct way and removed the wrong way one
Subscribed. Love your channels!!! Definitely informative!! My f250 4x4 is having the same issue I have a very low miles parts truck that I plan on using the gear box full steering column steering shafts and so on. In my case I won't be able to lock the seat belt in the wheel so any advice so everything transfers over and lines up close as possible? Thanks in advance
Robert Parmeter thanks! Glad to have you on board. As far as not being able to lock the steering wheel just make sure that it doesn't turn that's the most important thing. Most of the time it's not an issue but some people think it's fun to spin the steering wheel when it's disconnected. Whenever you do transfer all your lines over, and you first start up your truck, turn the wheel very slowly as Not to cause cavitation in the power steering pump and a lot of foam air bubbles. It may take quite a few rotations from left to right before everything gets purged. Good luck
thank you so much for making this video! i have a 1985 Ford F150 that has a little play so it looks like i figured it out. probably gonna do this asap! again thank you
I got a question, FB...I have a 96 Bronco, and I just replaced the power steering pump because my steering was STIFF as hell, and it is STILL stiff . Will replacing the box take care of this. My steering is no slop, just very tight. I dealt with it for a long time, (too long) but after it locked up on me in a turn, I decided to replace the pump. I have no problem replacing the box, (especially after watching your Vid.) Can you think of ANYTHING else that might be causing my stiff steering ? I have had 9 ford trucks and I have never had the problem before, and they've all got to the 200,000 mile mark. Any ideas ?
My fluid is leaking down the pittman arm so this is what i believe is my issue,the seal is bad above the pittman arm. Did you feel the need to replace the "o" rings on the hoses ?
I cant seem to get the shaft out of the steering box, Ive removed the bolt and tryed prying it out but have no luck. Am i missing something or any tips?
Try to spread the clam slightly and you just have to work it slowly back and forth it is a very tight fit. And if you think getting it off as rough wait till you try to put it back on again
Love your videos! I'm going to be changing out my ball joints today on my 95 F150 2WD (watched your vid!), next on the to do list is the steering box. Do you think the extra expense of the Redhead was worth it? Also, would you recommend changing out all the tie rods as well so that everything in the front end is new at the same time? My truck has the standard "sloppy steering" that I'm trying to make better. Thanks for any advice!
Thanks for watching!!! The steering gear box was a "piece of mind" thing for me.. I hadn't much luck with the rebuilt ones at the auto parts stores.. The tierod end..., if the don't show any signs of wear I would just lubricate and leave on..I had my 95 f150 for 7 years changed the gear box , ball joints twice(dont go cheap like my 1st time) the coil springs 2 times(video on coil stack problem) and brakes and rotors a few times, radius arms, shocks and all along I never had to change the tierod ends.. Good luck!!
Thanks again for your video! I changed out my steering box with no issues, but I went cheap and got a regular rebuilt box and not a Redhead. And boy am I sorry I did! I've had it in just a few months now, and it feels worse than the OEM one I replaced! Now that you've had the Redhead box in your truck for awhile, how do you like it? Does it seem like you have a lot better control of the steering now? I'm thinking I'm going to have to do this again and go with a better steering box! Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!!
Clint M I heard of people having good luck with just the ones bought at the parts store but I don't seem to ever have that kind of luck myself that's why I went with a red head.. The nice thing about it is if you continue to have staring problems you know that that unit is very well built and that's not the whereas one of those parts store specials might have an issue to where they start coming loose after 2 months to 2 years.. My steering's a little funky on my truck but it's because of steering axis inclination and scrub radius issues it has nothing to do with any of the components that I installed including the steering box.. However every shop that I've taken it to his taking it for a test drive and said it's one of the best steering old body style series trucks that they've ever driven, even though they notice a slight return to Center issue also.. So I'm just kind of content with the way that it is right now.. Again none of those issues that I'm is caused by that redhead steering gear box that thing is Rock Solid perfect..
Foxboss9 I had the same experience with store gear boxes, and even bought Red Head. I bought an intermediate steering shaft on ebay new that I found out was worthless a year later, finding play in what looked to be "good" rag joint even at new. I heard knocking and searched to find the play in the rag joint. I ended up buying a Borgeson collapsible shaft with a Borgeson joint both on ebay, which cost me $120 compared to a full Borgeson unit that was almost $300. After the change my play was fixed and I even noticed the steering wheel did not seem loose when moving with the engine off. I was amazed on how well it handled and suprised that even the slightest play in the rubber of the intermediate steering would cause such loose steering. I can say that I have done all Moog front end components and energy suspension bushings, with the Red Head, but the ultimate fix was the Borgeson steering shaft. I did have to modify by cutting shaft and drilling holes but l am happy and feel safer driving.
A bit of extra info, the steering gear from a 1990 Bronco is the same part number as a 2001 E350. Point being is they used this same gearbox over many models.
I have a 1963 Thunderbird 390 convertible. I installed a new rebuilt power steering gear box and when the engine is started the gear box automatically turns the wheels all the way to the left. When the wheels are returned o the center it automatically goes to the left again. Can you help?
Hi, I have problem power steering on ford expedition 2003 5.4 L. when I put on 2000 Rpm the turn the steering to right and left kind of binding or little bit hard to turn when the Rpm down I use force to turn the steering ( more heavy). do you think the power steering need to be replace or something else?
Hi SunSteve1, I have the same problem with my 2003 f150. Did you find out the problem with yours. binding when turning and with the rps is up to about 2000rps it turns easy.
good video! not sure i want to this job however. i own a 97 e150.just rebuilt entire front end... and purchased new tires. the van rides very rough ,probably that twin i beam suspension. vehicle fishtails! might just hav to find a box at the boneyard and take a gamble.the 97 has a lot of different parts than previous years.rear axle etc this steering box scares me! i cant believe ford used aluminum and steel for steering shaft. yes there was a safety recall on this junk ....
So I’m trying to torque the pitman arm down on the sectorshaft of the streeringbox, but the shaft starts to rotate and fluid comes out..how to torque it down?
Thanks Boss! so 200 ftpounds on the steering shaft will be fine? saw another video somewhere where some guy is impact wrenching it on there with the steering box on the floor and the shaft/pitman arm doesnt turn.
Dan K seems like 200ft lbs is a lot... I just used my impact... I don't believe the steering shaft would see the same amount of torque as the mechanical advantage of the gear box is designed to help reduce power needed on the input side not the reverse...
Great video Foxboss.....one of the best I have viewed on YT. The video work was top notch and the narrative very professional and informative. Just curious after over a year of use did the new steering gear take out all the slop as you expected and how is it holding up? Thanks again for a good job.
I have watched several videos on this operation (F-series steering gear box replacement) and yours is by FAR the most comprehensive!!! Thank YOU!
TxRiverElf glad it helped out!
Turns out red head steering gears is in the town I live in, so I went and picked one up. Thanks for the video can’t wait to start in an hour or so.
'WOW' That was one of the best video's I've ever watched, now I have to do my motorhome.
Awesome video! I just did my son's 96 F-350. I was able to remove the pitman arm from the gear box and leave it attached on the other end and just used zip ties to hold up out of the way until i got steering box dropped out of the way and replaced with new one. Instructions were perfect. He wasn't able to turn in either direction. Now it turns like butter. Thank you so much!
this is a very thorough video that not only the provided clear step-by-step instructions on how to do it, but also the confidence in being able to do it myself. thank you for posting this!!
Great video and helped a bunch and you have a perfect voice to explain things. Thanks for taking your time and effort to show us rookies how it's done.
😊😊😊.... Sir, really appreciate you taking the time to make this vid...1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck and 143,000 miles on the clock. ...30 yrs old parts are just worn out...Basically, from the Firewall, all the steering parts, Gearbox and Pump needs replacement...And all associated Bushings... Trk steering wheel is needing 'bout a 1/4" or so to the right to drive straight down the road...You can feel the "play" in the Gearbox on acceleration and stopping...Uggghh, and Front wheel bearings needs changing...Betsey LuLu lived a hard life before I got her....
Awesome! I replaced the gear box on my '95 F150 yesterday. I followed your video exactly and it turned out to be one of the easiest R&Rs that I've done. Showing all the required tools and sizes helped tremendously. I'm glad you showed using the crow's foot wrenches. There is NO room to use a flare nut wrench and it was so easy with the crow's foot! Thanks!
Tools by Dean - Authorized Matco Tools Distributor
Awesome!! Glad it helped out!!
Great guide! I just did this job on my buddy's Bronco. Super easy, only problem I ran into is the rag joint was rusted to the old steering box and I couldn't separate it in place so I had to remove the steering box and steering shaft as one piece, but once it was off the truck and I had room to work I got it off no problem. In my opinion you don't really need to tie the steering wheel up, the steering lock holds it straight enough. You can only put the rag joint on the steering box one way because one side of the shaft has a flat spot, so you don't have to worry about getting it wrong and throwing the alignment off. Just make sure the steering lock engages before taking it apart because otherwise there's nothing stopping the wheel from spinning too far and ruining the clock spring.
Just did this job. Oh man, what a pain in the butt. Couldn't have done it without this video though. Hope i don't need to do that again anytime soon.
One of the best repair videos out there ... great work
Thanks for the helpful vid. Just did our 86 Bullnose with a Blue Top box. Red Head and Blue Top are run by cousins. You do talk a lot but it's good info. Thanks for the torque specs too.
Thank you. You have no idea how much easier this videro made the job. incidentally, on the fluid nuts, they're not metric.
they are 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.
Awesome video. I'm about to attempt this on my 2003 F-150. the box looks pretty much identical and from what I've seen being under the hood and under the vehicle it's the same process. this made it much easier for me by showing the steps, the first time is always the slowest while trying to figure it out.
I've heard countless good reviews on the RedHead units. When the time comes I know who I'll be going to for a gear box.
Yea, so far so great!!
Thanks alot for your time explaining all the process, very helpful!
Man thanks for the video! I think mine is out. I heard a pop while turning the wheel and then it was easy to turn one way and then hard to turn back and then easy again. This will help me a lot if it turns out this is my problem. Thanks again! Great Job & Great Video!!
Did you end up replacing the pump? I am experiencing the same symptoms as you. My 1989 F-250 460 C.I.D has been leaking for years. I had someone overfill my power steering fluid reservoir and I think it popped a seal down in the gearbox. Did you find out what was wrong with yours?
Yes it was the steering box. Was not to bad to change. Good luck. I completed the job in about 5 hours.
@@richardtarpley nice! Thanks for the insight.
best video ive seen on how to do this repair. congrats and thank you
I did this just today. My steering wheel has always been straight (just with lots of play). Now with the new box the wheel is turned right when going straight. Tracks fine, just offcenter steering wheel. I will admit that this was my first time on this particular project and I didn't find your video until after the fact. I wasn't as cautious with the steering wheel position. The steering shaft and pitman arm appear to only go on one way, so I assumed the steering wheel would go back to where it should've been originally, but with the new box. Can you offer any help? What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
love watching your videos to help work on my new 93 f250!
Great, I made no marks and my steering wheel has been spinning freely......fuck
Once again, thanks so much for posting these, I have referred back to your videos time and time again in the restoration of my 96, and it has many of the similar problems. Did a column swap today in fact, the bushings were destroyed in the tilt tube. Drives a lot better! and steering box is next..so here I am again :)
Awesome.. Thanks for watching 👍☺️
Excellent instructional video. Tackling this now and your video is very helpful and common sense
Thanks for making the video, it helped so much. I went step by step, everything almost worked out perfectly. I ran into a snag where the pitman arm wouldn't come off the shaft. I broke a pitman arm puller trying to get it off, it was froze on. I had to use a press to get it off. Once off, I found red loc-tite in the splines. Hopefully this doesn't happen to anyone else! Thanks so much!
Judy Bantom glad it worked out for the most part..
This exactly has happened to me.
Judy Bantom +:
I hate red loctite. I swear that shit was made by the devil himself. I swore I'd never use it, and I've had nothing but headaches and surprise broken bolts due to that crap.
Judy Bantom
That's why you should soak the joint in ATF + Acetone while you take a quick beer break. It will come off like butter after that.
Thanks for the video! I'll be changing out the steering gearbox in my '94 F-150 this Fall, and I'm 100% confident after watching this video. There's a LOT of slop in the steering, and I'm hoping this will take a lot of it out.
Rodney Wise 👍😁
When I was watching this I got a little bit over excited and thought I could do this job. One little tid bit I could advise you with? If you screw the castle nut on a 1/2 or 3/4 turn on backwards and strike it with any old hammer it will work for these Ford's, but I wouldn't recommend a heavy duty hammer. Damaging threads is not a fun game. Hopefully I could help you save time and money done the road or to whoever reads this!😎 PS excellent job man
upside down nut good idea... run the nut down till stud is just short of flush..stops from screwing up threads and nut...old millwright tip.
Also, great video! I watched before the install this morning and the job went well. Cheers!
👍😁
Nice explanation, better than most out there. Thank you.
Thanks SO much for this video! It helped my greatly in getting this done to my 96 F250 4x4!
👍😁
This a great step by step! I’m gonna attempt this in April can someone tell me what a drag link is please?
Thanks a ton for this tutorial! It was really well laid out and helped me figure the order out. Great job!
Ozzy Osborne 👍😁
Lol a nickname given me ;)
Fantastic video!!! I'm doing my 1990 f150 gear box seals replacement tommorow. This video is a great help! Cheers
😁👍
I just swapped a rebuilt box into my 92 F150. Went with a cardone re-manufactured unit, despite doing research and knowing about some negative reviews. I saw more good than bad, so I went for it. Just finished it up this morning and I'm not pleased, its making some binding noises. Steers fine, just some abnormal chatter. Checked all the hardware, everything is tight. Should have went with a red head!
Very very good demonstration, thank you well done
What size of clawfoot socket did you use on the two hard lines?
My Question Exactly, he's to excited with a low intellect !!
If your gonna mention any socket sizes, any torques spes amounts, give all sizes and torques needed.... daw..
Is your steering shaft bolt accessible from the top of the truck or bottom when I pulled the plastic back no bolt but when I went under my truck I could easily see the bolt just over my head so I’m confused
A-1 presentation no B.S. right to the point lots of good tips thanks foxboss9
Did you have to put any o rings on your power steering lines that connect to the gear box ?
Excellent video. Will be doing my own on my old Ford after watching!
Thank you for the video! I have a parts vehicle that is an 81 f150 ranger 4x4. do you know if that will fit on my 85' f150 2wd?
Great video, I'm about to install a Redhead box on my 2003 f250. I have a question, How did you hold the pitman to torque to 200 ft-lbs.( my torgue wrench maxes out at 110 ft-bls.) did you hold the arm some how? Vice? I don't think you worked against the steering box.
Mark Harvey I did the arm in the vise.
Having a problem getting the shaft back into the new gear box, any recommendations? Thank you for the video! It's very complete and easy to follow.
patients.. and maybe spread the receiving yoke slightly
Finally got it. I think it was mostly luck that the spines lined up. A little w/d 40 and a rubber mallet got it on in 30 seconds
Do you have the truck running when you first start bleeding the air with the drag link disconnected? You didn't say. You only said it was running when you reconnect it.
I didn't have much air to bleed out. You can do it while it's running but I don't think it's really necessary as long as you take the time
Thank you. I was feeling like I couldn't do this. After watching I know it's a breeze.
😁👍
Great Job . Thank you for the info. Keep up the great content !!!
You are welcome and I hope the video helped.
What do I need to do if mine leaks a quart I’ve already went threw the pump and lines where does it normally leak I heard ford had a recall on my 1986 f250 for leaking at the pivot arm or something
Having trouble with getting box input shaft to fit into the flex coupler. I've read online people suggesting screw driver to tapping with hammer until it goes into place
It is a tight precise fit. It needs to be lined up perfect. It cannot be tilted in One Direction or the other. Tapping it lightly may help.
@@Foxboss9
Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna try centering the input shaft, then try to put coupler in place. Had a hard time finding spring clamp for pressure hose. I think I'll be able find one tomorrow
Good video, but didn't have what I was looking for. Did the lines have o rings on the steering box end? And what do you tighten them to on the steering box end? I put mine back together according correctly from what I can tell but the brand new lines leaked at the steering box, up around the line and out the top between the line and nut.
That's a sensitive area for a couple of reasons. When they staring boxes are remanufactured, and I'm referring to the cheap ones that you normally get at the auto parts store, that area is always part of the casting that seems to be slightly neglected during the rebuild. Meaning that the threads usually get a little bit more war down during the cleaning and reconditioning of the casting of the gearbox. That's usually why you'll find new fittings with your newly remanufactured gearbox as they you sealants and other things too basically put adapters in that have good threads so your lines can connect the way that they should. Unfortunately, they don't always get it right. Also, contributing to why they like the leak there is the lines themselves that are on the vehicle going to the gearbox have a tendency to be distorted or twisted in the area in which they need to seat. So basically, there's a good chance that if you don't have a good remanufactured gearbox like the one that I used, and if you don't have brand new power steering lines, they could be prone to leaking. Also with all the different changes that they made over the years you may want to make sure that your old gear box looks absolutely identical in every way especially at the fittings to ensure your power steering lines match up correctly as some of them were sleeved deeper or more shallow than others meaning that shoulder that's on the power steering line has a tendency sometimes to either bottom out too soon or not seat at all because it's too short based on what you were given. And finally the last thing that I've always noticed with acting the lines is that it seems like I'm always tightening it more than I feel comfortable doing to get it to seal off. This is just what I've run into in the past, it never seems to be as easy to put on a new power steering box compared to let's say an alternator. There always seems to be a little bit of play and a little bit of leakage that needs to be addressed with those lines. Good luck
Probably the best video related to this topic on YT.
Quick question: I have a power steering leak and already replaced high pressure hose and reservoir gaskets, but still leaks. Seems to be leaking from that steering box where it connects to the Pitman arm, is it likely that the steering box is where the leak is?
Could be a bad seal in that shaft that the pitman arm connects to
@@Foxboss9 is it feasible to only replace that seal ? Instead of the whole steering box?
Bravo!! Best video of seen on it. Thank you!
My center link is stuck? My pitman arm isn’t dropping it maybe it’s a crap? Lol got 2 different size. Will buy another one the 2 I got is rentals.. may get pickle fork and bang it with a sledge let you know how it goes.
I'm in the middle of doing this, plus a radiator swap. My steering wheel has always been off about 45 degrees. I want to correct that. 91 Ford Bronco 6" procomp lift, running 35" bfg km2's.
what happens if you got the gear box still on the arm and spin the wheel,this is my first time doing this and i moved the steering wheel so i can try n get that bolt off to get the pittmen arm off my wheel spins all the way around to the left but no the right,i have my hole center link off
Great video! I also like your intake tubes. Can you post the part numbers that you used? I would love to get rid of the accordion-style OEM tubes.
cullaUVA thanks... The intake is 💯percent factory Ford as equipped on 97 F250 460 as well as some others..
I really like you’re presentation, thank you for the video.
how long should it take to re & re a steering box on a 2008 ford F 250 diesel not including alignment. Thanks a lot.
Not sure... Different year and diesel may have more obstructions thar cause access to be limited...
I have pulled the pitman arm from the gear shaft while still underneath,
and then put it back on while it was still in place. after installing the new steering gear assembly.
I can’t get the line out of the box. It’s loose but the metal line is stuck inside the box. Talking about those you used the crow wrench on. How do I get that out?
Just way going back and forth until they come loose if not they may be rusted and corroded in the gearbox and at that point they're going to need replaced
Hello, I would like to know what size of pitman arm puller to use?
Excellent video! I have a question about play in my 94 F150 steering. I have narrowed the play down to either the box or the steering wheel shaft. Cannot really determine if the looseness is coming from the box or above through the shaft. Can twist the shaft back and forth quite a bit by hand. There is a noticeable bang/clunk at times in the front end while hitting dips and potholes and I'm wondering if the box would cause this? Thanks again for all your valuable information!
J sapien my guess between those two things would be the box.. Noise during bumps is most likely suspension issues.. Check I-beam inner pivot bushings an ball joints... Good luck.
Foxboss9 thank you, I do have a tiny amount of play in one upper ball joint so I'm guessing Itd be beneficial to replace them all as preventative maintenance? I'm just curious if the box can have enough slop to actually bang/clunk on a dip. With wheels in air I can easily move whole steering system back and forth maybe 2-3 inches. New pivot bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and drag link. Was told pitman arm may have play, Is this possible considering it seems to be a machined part with no joint per session?
Per se
J sapien I've never really had a box that has had so much play that would cause it to clunk. The amount of slop that would have to be between the teeth to make a clunk sound would be pretty substantial and it would almost have to have a tooth missing. Make sure to go over everything suspension wise to ensure that there is not something else at play here. Make sure the gearbox is tight against the frame rail, ball joints definitely make clunks, definitely replace any tie rod end or pitman arm that may have play in it, make sure the shocks and bushings for the shocks are all in good shape, and look at the Springs to make sure that they don't have a crack that may not be noticeable at first usually that happens at the ends and sometimes it can't be seen easily. Unfortunately, I don't have a better answer then that. Good luck and let me know what you find.
How long did it take to fix
When I have my steering wheel the way you demonstrate the bolt is not facing upwards. What should I do?
Well, you can access the bolt from underneath or you can rotate your steering wheel until the bolt face is up. The thing to remember is once you disconnect you cannot move anything in your steering linkage going to your wheels or your steering wheel itself until you bolt it all back together again exactly like you took it off.
Ok thanks. You're awesome dude
Great video. I have an 88 f250 with the original 460 I got 235000 miles on it. My oil pressure gage is Marking right under the N for normal. Should I be worried? I'm running 10/40 full synthetic
Rey Luque get a real gauge on it to see what the actual lbs of pressure are
I replaced one on my 91 and I broke the Pitman arm puller. I had to buy another one. I then realized that Ford uses a very strong Lock tight. So what I did was heat up the shaft at the pitman arm. Once I did that it came off real easy. I didn't heat that much just enough to soften the Loctite.
when putting the gearbox in, I put a bolt in starting a the gearbox, not frame, and used that to easily slide into the bolt holes and basically hold the gearbox up. Then put other bolts in correct way and removed the wrong way one
Subscribed. Love your channels!!! Definitely informative!! My f250 4x4 is having the same issue I have a very low miles parts truck that I plan on using the gear box full steering column steering shafts and so on. In my case I won't be able to lock the seat belt in the wheel so any advice so everything transfers over and lines up close as possible? Thanks in advance
Robert Parmeter thanks! Glad to have you on board. As far as not being able to lock the steering wheel just make sure that it doesn't turn that's the most important thing. Most of the time it's not an issue but some people think it's fun to spin the steering wheel when it's disconnected. Whenever you do transfer all your lines over, and you first start up your truck, turn the wheel very slowly as Not to cause cavitation in the power steering pump and a lot of foam air bubbles. It may take quite a few rotations from left to right before everything gets purged. Good luck
thank you so much for making this video! i have a 1985 Ford F150 that has a little play so it looks like i figured it out. probably gonna do this asap! again thank you
I got a question, FB...I have a 96 Bronco, and I just replaced the power steering pump because my steering was STIFF as hell, and it is STILL stiff . Will replacing the box take care of this. My steering is no slop, just very tight. I dealt with it for a long time, (too long) but after it locked up on me in a turn, I decided to replace the pump. I have no problem replacing the box, (especially after watching your Vid.) Can you think of ANYTHING else that might be causing my stiff steering ? I have had 9 ford trucks and I have never had the problem before, and they've all got to the 200,000 mile mark. Any ideas ?
My fluid is leaking down the pittman arm so this is what i believe is my issue,the seal is bad above the pittman arm. Did you feel the need to replace the "o" rings on the hoses ?
No, just fix the leaks that are present..
Your thorough with the information. Good shots and knowledge. Thanks!
James Mattox 👍😁
great video, thank you. one question ,,92 f150. is 4wd same as 2wd? thank you. old dave
The installation is the same.. As far as the steering box, that too(I think) is the same...
Did this new steering gearbox solution your sloppy steering?
Yes. It was much better than the one that I got from The local auto parts store.
wow your camera is awesome, excellent video
Nicole M. Thanks! Just a Sony AS100V action cam.. see my review here th-cam.com/video/BRokWDw8ym0/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video quality and great detailed explanation ... Thank you!
@@Foxboss9
Is this about the same with an 01 expedition.
There are some differences but roughly the same
Great video! My 1995 f350 just lost PS on right side. I sent redhead a request. Any recommendations on all the blown out rubber?
Dengar _the boss Sorry, Not really, I would ask Redhead their thoughts.. Good luck
I cant seem to get the shaft out of the steering box, Ive removed the bolt and tryed prying it out but have no luck. Am i missing something or any tips?
Try to spread the clam slightly and you just have to work it slowly back and forth it is a very tight fit. And if you think getting it off as rough wait till you try to put it back on again
Thank you, I guess i was being a little impatient lol. Came back took it slow & it came off in seconds. Thanks
I have a1986 Ford F-150 2wd what size of pitman arm puller should use?. Thank you
Luis Aponte not sure.. Check with the local auto parts store
Very complete video. Great job. Now it's off to the garage I go and attack it. Thank you.
Thank you for making such a great video! Very detailed instructions.
Glad it helped!
What size is that crows foot
Love your videos! I'm going to be changing out my ball joints today on my 95 F150 2WD (watched your vid!), next on the to do list is the steering box. Do you think the extra expense of the Redhead was worth it? Also, would you recommend changing out all the tie rods as well so that everything in the front end is new at the same time? My truck has the standard "sloppy steering" that I'm trying to make better. Thanks for any advice!
Thanks for watching!!! The steering gear box was a "piece of mind" thing for me.. I hadn't much luck with the rebuilt ones at the auto parts stores.. The tierod end..., if the don't show any signs of wear I would just lubricate and leave on..I had my 95 f150 for 7 years changed the gear box , ball joints twice(dont go cheap like my 1st time) the coil springs 2 times(video on coil stack problem) and brakes and rotors a few times, radius arms, shocks and all along I never had to change the tierod ends.. Good luck!!
Thanks for the info! I think I'll go with the Redhead then and see how that works, and leave the tie rods alone unless they become an issue.
Great video. How many miles did you get out of it? Have you ever rebuilt one instead of replacing it?
It's not worth rebuilding anymore. Unfortunately that is the way of the past now it's the time of remove and replace
Thanks again for your video! I changed out my steering box with no issues, but I went cheap and got a regular rebuilt box and not a Redhead. And boy am I sorry I did! I've had it in just a few months now, and it feels worse than the OEM one I replaced! Now that you've had the Redhead box in your truck for awhile, how do you like it? Does it seem like you have a lot better control of the steering now? I'm thinking I'm going to have to do this again and go with a better steering box! Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!!
Clint M I heard of people having good luck with just the ones bought at the parts store but I don't seem to ever have that kind of luck myself that's why I went with a red head.. The nice thing about it is if you continue to have staring problems you know that that unit is very well built and that's not the whereas one of those parts store specials might have an issue to where they start coming loose after 2 months to 2 years.. My steering's a little funky on my truck but it's because of steering axis inclination and scrub radius issues it has nothing to do with any of the components that I installed including the steering box.. However every shop that I've taken it to his taking it for a test drive and said it's one of the best steering old body style series trucks that they've ever driven, even though they notice a slight return to Center issue also.. So I'm just kind of content with the way that it is right now.. Again none of those issues that I'm is caused by that redhead steering gear box that thing is Rock Solid perfect..
Thanks for the info! Looks like I'll be doing another box swap in the future with the Redhead, but at least I have practice at it now! Thanks again!
Foxboss9 I had the same experience with store gear boxes, and even bought Red Head. I bought an intermediate steering shaft on ebay new that I found out was worthless a year later, finding play in what looked to be "good" rag joint even at new. I heard knocking and searched to find the play in the rag joint. I ended up buying a Borgeson collapsible shaft with a Borgeson joint both on ebay, which cost me $120 compared to a full Borgeson unit that was almost $300. After the change my play was fixed and I even noticed the steering wheel did not seem loose when moving with the engine off. I was amazed on how well it handled and suprised that even the slightest play in the rubber of the intermediate steering would cause such loose steering. I can say that I have done all Moog front end components and energy suspension bushings, with the Red Head, but the ultimate fix was the Borgeson steering shaft. I did have to modify by cutting shaft and drilling holes but l am happy and feel safer driving.
25BEDFORD good to hear.. Might look into that if I experience future issues 👍😁
A bit of extra info, the steering gear from a 1990 Bronco is the same part number as a 2001 E350. Point being is they used this same gearbox over many models.
I have a 1963 Thunderbird 390 convertible. I installed a new rebuilt power steering gear box and when the engine is started the gear box automatically turns the wheels all the way to the left. When the wheels are returned o the center it automatically goes to the left again. Can you help?
chuck elwyn sounds like that you have a bad gearbox. There are valve actuators that the steering shaft moves.
Hi, I have problem power steering on ford expedition 2003 5.4 L. when I put on 2000 Rpm the turn the steering to right and left kind of binding or little bit hard to turn when the Rpm down I use force to turn the steering ( more heavy). do you think the power steering need to be replace or something else?
sunsteve1 my repairs are limited to the old body style F-Series trucks.. Not sure about newer generations of SUV's..
thank you
Hi SunSteve1, I have the same problem with my 2003 f150. Did you find out the problem with yours. binding when turning and with the rps is up to about 2000rps it turns easy.
good video! not sure i want to this job however. i own a 97 e150.just rebuilt entire front end... and purchased new tires. the van rides very rough ,probably that twin i beam suspension. vehicle fishtails! might just hav to find a box at the boneyard and take a gamble.the 97 has a lot of different parts than previous years.rear axle etc this steering box scares me! i cant believe ford used aluminum and steel for steering shaft. yes there was a safety recall on this junk ....
I think the 97 e150 and definitely the 97 f150 are different than 97 f250...At least body styles
What kind of thread locker to you use?
I'm pretty sure that I used Permatex 24200 blue gel
AYE shout out to Cleveland. im out here in Berea doing the same thing!
Cameron Holloway 👍
Is it much different on a 2002 f250?
Nope.... Not much difference at all
Thank you.
So I’m trying to torque the pitman arm down on the sectorshaft of the streeringbox, but the shaft starts to rotate and fluid comes out..how to torque it down?
Dan K on the truck steering shaft connected..
Thanks Boss! so 200 ftpounds on the steering shaft will be fine? saw another video somewhere where some guy is impact wrenching it on there with the steering box on the floor and the shaft/pitman arm doesnt turn.
Dan K seems like 200ft lbs is a lot... I just used my impact... I don't believe the steering shaft would see the same amount of torque as the mechanical advantage of the gear box is designed to help reduce power needed on the input side not the reverse...
Thanks again- just leave the steering wheel locked and strapped with the belt and yank the impact? First thing tomorrow;)
Dan K 👍😁
Great looking new gearbox. Im in the market for a new one as well. Where did you get that exact box at? I love the red cover.
Adambomb945 Thanks, like always, link in the description... 👍
what type of fluid did you use?
oem power steering fluid
Do you think it's the same on my 88 LTD Crn Vic?
I have no idea. I'm sure it's not that different but it won't be the exact same box
how long did it take for u to change all that!
Ali Mohammond shooting the video takes some extra time.... Right around 1.5 hours
Superb video!!!! - thank you so-o-o-o-o much!
I saw some thumbs down???? Thanks, good job, I may be doing this on my f250.
Great video Foxboss.....one of the best I have viewed on YT. The video work was top notch and the narrative very professional and informative. Just curious after over a year of use did the new steering gear take out all the slop as you expected and how is it holding up? Thanks again for a good job.
Thanks!! Yes all is good!!
What are his pillar gauges for?
I think I covered them here.........th-cam.com/users/rvdaydream
Does anyone happen to have the size of the bolt that connects the steering linkage to the gear box? I seem to have misplaced it...
Wrecking yard would be best bet..
@@Foxboss9 go to a wrecking yard for a bolt?
question. forgot to align steering wheel and tires before removing gear box. HELP
Viola Warde get it as close to straight as possible by "eyeballing" it and then take it to an alignment shop..