The answers you are looking for are in this video :) How to make the Compost for Compost Teas - Fungal Dominated Compost Tea! th-cam.com/video/_Vr7UkIS9EM/w-d-xo.html Cheers David.
Both hot and cold composts are great and worth doing. Hot is beneficial for if you have weed seeds or diseased plants. Cold is great as you do not need to turn at all. The reason for keeping even the hot heap below 60c, is that the compost we make is for using in compost tea. All compost will get way hotter than 60 c if you make the pile high, only turning it and watering will cool it down. You end up with a much different bacteria, if it goes above 60c. Credit to Dr. Elaine Ingham David.
David, this is not word for word. I took your general statements and condensed some into sentences that still express what you are saying. I hope this is good enough for your translations. :) Now I just wanted to show you how a compost area might look like. We have some leaf mulch here, now i spent much of the morning separating 3 different kinds of materials. There was a big pile ontop of that old compost pile there, we have a lot of these old branches, leaf mulch. What I've also done is shredded bigger branches and this pile here is green stuff, plenty of flies with vegetable, it will be mixed with brown stuff. Smaller branches, older compost pile here, lovely black stuff here with little branches which is important because too much carbon content in soil will rob nitrogen from soil. Softer branches are okay, bigger branches are not okay. Before we talk about how we make the compost heap, we talk about this heap I made two months ago. I made a video on it. We see black stuff in it, its half decomposed, twigs need to be broken, there is worms, worms are great. The compost has cooled down and some nasturtium flowers growing here. How to make it: use brown carbon materials bark, mulch, paper, cardboard leaves twigs, then comes water, fungi and bacteria make use of it. Then branches are the brown and also allow air pockets to come into compost. Air is important for fungi to break down the heap, green material we use vegetable peelings, cow manures, then add soil for worms so worms can have it to break down compost material. Eventually we go back to browns, water, then greens, every now and then we use an inoculant, which is fungi found in the forest. Worm castings or adding sweet compost is very good for and innoculum. Another thing is, different materials in the garden, weeds, food scraps, leaves, branches, if you can make sure you have a certain amount of carbon and nitrogen (25:1) if you have these quantities in the right amount, the decomposition process will do very well. Easiest way to think of it is a sandwich, brown on the outside and thin layer of green inside. Also recommend, with higher compost, make levels of brown and green, add soil in-between, up to a meter or 2 meters, turn it once a day. It will heat up a lot and adding water will cool it down. I was using a thermostat to make sure its not above 60C, but u can leave it there for a day and if its hot to the touch you should turn it and water it, if its not hot then its okay. You can use this compost for compost tea if you care for it enough. Bring in microbes from a wormery or an old compost heap that smells sweet to ensure bacteria. Throw in fungi to innoculate every now and then. Quickly here, this is hyphen, (fungi decomposing this compost). Hope that answered a lot of question in regards to making your own compost, This is different from a wormery that's a low, 30cm high heap, we feed it by adding nitrogen and carbon materials and worms as well. Now if you have any questions drop a comment on TH-cam, Facebook or private message me, thanks for watching.
Hi Nigel, Thanks for the feed back. It is nice you got something out of it :) Actually I was working on an organic farm for 5 years and part of my job was to test and experiment with many different methods, of natural gardening. So permaculture would have been also on the list. Many don't understand though that permaculture is mainly a natural design tool. It is not really just gardening, but how you design a farm or the area you live. I will be uploading some videos by Warren Brush soon :) D
An inspiringl addition to your wonderful series - highly watchable, information packed video's. I 'organically' farm/garden 4 acres in Northern Greece and have lost count of how many times your useful tips have come in handy. I say organic; but it's rapidly looking more and more like permaculture. Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Greece! Nigel
Thanks David. Your videos are always the most informational. i wanted to let you know the Russian kale seeds you've sent me are growing quite nicely in my own compost! :) thanks again. - Jillian
Thanks for your comment again David. It really didn't seem right to me from the beginning. I started a new garden and compostpile this year. The new pile wasn't heating up as I expected it would do, so that's why I started some research on the topic. But I'll definetly stick to the same conclusion to keep my pile and garden the natural way instead of the MacDonalds-way :) Besides... who wants to spill beer anyway?? :p
I live I have in uncovers 2 yon of organic leaf mulch 15 feet away is where large build up of grass cuttings could I start mixing it up or layer it ? It should say 2 ton will the mulch make a good bed for my potatoes ? Thank you .
Sorry I did, As I made more instructional videos on the topic. The save vegetable seeds course. I thought to make more space. So I ended up deleting them. Did not know you enjoyed them, or I would have left them ;) David.
The way I measure my efficiency is time. If I have a well built compost heap, you can have perfect compost with earth worms etc within 18 to 22 days. For this the outside day temperature should be in the 30's Celsius. Cover your compost heap to keep in the heat. Turn your compost every 5 to 7 days. In winter every 14 days, depending on the temperature.
Yes there are many ways to make compost and I also at times use the heated heap. Specially for use in compost teas. Just made a video on that and on how to do it correctly if anyone is interested. th-cam.com/video/_Vr7UkIS9EM/w-d-xo.html You may need to turn more though if you want the correct bacteria to grow. All explained in the video!
Hi there! I am getting as much info on compost for starting my own in my tiny garden. But what I don't understand is: Can I start the pile at any point of the month? And being the pile out in the open, if it rained a lot, wouldn't it get too wet? Doesn't it need coverage? btw wonderful videos! Thanks, Izzy
Yes, you can start a compost pile any time during the year. You need to have a pile that is at least 36" square so it heats up enough. There will be some compaction, so start with a pile that is at least 36"x36" and 60" tall and you will see it compact down to about 36". I go for a pile that is 40" in diameter and build it inside a 2"x4" circle of welded wire fencing that is 5' tall. Moisten the pile throughout, but not excessively. It should be as moist as a well rung-out sponge. Cover the pile with 4 or 6mil black plastic to maintain the required moisture and prevent rainfall from soaking the pile too much. Allow it to heat up for a week or two to appx. 150 degrees Fahrenheit and then turn it, mixing the outside part of the pile to the inside. Let it heat up again and turn it again. Keep turning until it no longer heats up. Let it sit and decompose for a few more weeks. If you come across any worms while you are digging in your garden, take them and throw them in your compost pile at this point, when temperatures aren't so high. They will help break it down further and worm castings are one of the best fertilizers! Once you cannot identify the contents of the pile, your compost is finished. See what I wrote above for additional information. A good book to read on soil and composting is called: "Teaming With Microbes." Good luck Lisa!
This seems like a dumb question but I have to work it out in my head.. In the city I had a compost pile I just kept adding and turning but because I was always adding to it, it was never a "finished product". Now I am on a 2 acre place and actually want to use my compost. I watch your video and several others and understand the pile basics but apparently you don't just keep adding to the pile. So do you have a small pile in waiting, for the next big pile? I like piles instead of bins and have space. I see in this video you do have some separate piles. I am assuming you cant just pile kitchen waste in a pile for a long time or it gets funky. This is where my mind gets overwhelmed imagining multiple piles in various stages. Ahhhh! Help me sort this out in my head please!! What is your system throughout the year?
If I may say, there are no dumb questions only dumb people telling you your questions are dumb. Anyways Compost does take some time before it is fully broken down. I generally would try and get enough greens and browns together to make enough for one heap. If it is a hot heap then turning it needs to be done as well otherwise leaving a low pile around the place is also a great way to get compost. Often this is the best approach if you wish to have a pile that has gone through all the different stages of decomposition and you do not mind waiting a bit longer. A hot heap is used to get there faster and to kill all the pathogens ans weed seeds if they were added to the pile. But to answer your question - keep it simple by just using the compost only then when you do not recognize what you originally put in it. I have several piles on hand at all times that do different things for me, but then I run a farm. I have worm compost for compost teas and other experiments I am running. I have a hot pile for all the problem material and I have many cold heaps that I just let nature what nature does best. The correct lifeforms go into those piles at the correct time. No need to do much at all. If I need compost and the piles are only half done then I will sieve them and get the compost out of those piles. Last but not least my focus for most of the organic matter is to apply it on as a mulch. Just as nature does it. Most of the compost I use is made into sowing compost and some as a starter for small plants. Hope that helped otherwise feel free to keep asking. David.
Thank you for your reply. It really helps. I have to say, I love your videos. Very informative and I feel more confident after watching several. I have a very limited budget and have l so many ideas. I feel like I can do this! You do great work.
Yep! As you say; permaculture is a lifestyle - working with nature by design. Interesting to hear of your experimental work; it's an exciting way forward. Looking forward to the Warren Brush videos.
Cullen Blazek - The larger the operation. Its easy to assume the larger amount of waste being generated. As such it seems to make even more sense. On really LARGE operations I could imagine a totally independent line of business . Self sustainable and profitable. Judging by the almost absurd prices people in first world countries pay for a simple bag of compost or potting soil. Add on top that many countries support, via subsidies, ECO industries... Well I wish I add some capital for investment. LOL :-) Cheers
I AM SO HAPPY AND SO GREATFULL OF ALL INFORMATION THAT I GET FROM YOUR VIDEOS AND I WILL USE THEM WITH SO MUCH SECURITY BUT I LIKE TO KNOW HOW AND HOW BUY ALL THIS WORM AND WERMICOMPOST I WILL BE SO HAPPY TO LESSEN FROM YOU KOM WITH MORE VIDEOS SO MANY REGARDS MORAD
Hey no prob Glad it helped. But as for cost, most things are very cheap or can be gotten for free ;) Try farms and waste centers for compost hay and leafs or even grass clippings. You then just let the worms make the compost. D
David, I was searching through your videos and I could not find seeds of heritage 2, 3, 4 or any other ones ? Did you delete them ? Why ? I thought they were awesome videos and watched them like 20 times each
It does not do any harm. Compost is normally only added into the soil. If you use it as a mulch then plan to have 2 month between your harvest and after adding your compost mulch. But do not worry. Urine is full of nitrogen. Really needed for compost making.
how broken down does it have to be to work as potting soil? i know the compost i brought from the store was still very brown and chippy when it dried out and that doesnt work, my situation is im collecting tropical fruit seeds and tying to grow them in a cool climate but for years ive been held up by only being able to use potting mixes and compost i could buy and nothings grown at all for atleast 3 years its horrible but talk about learning the hard way.. ive got a pile now thats notfully broken down but i need to use it asap, im a bit worried im gonna run short aswel so i didnt want to sift to much out, i also dont have anything i could use as a sifter so yeh lol the decade old potting mixes that my house plants are in is so smooth and spongey and loose its crazy, i wish i had lots of that lol
You have kinda answered your own question and in the back of your head you already have the answer. Try using the area in your heap that has the least bits in it and looks most like well decomposed compost. As it is used for potting and not for sowing you should be able to get away with it.
i ended up finding an old plastic shopping basket that was my pops before he passed that has holes in it so ill put that to good use :) thanks pop, cheers bro :)
Do you know the work of Ernst Gotsch? It looks similar in some ways, and lives up to the name of your channel: Work with nature. Greetings from Brazil.
if you had 2.5 acres of baron land which was rather rocky with little green life it was neither saline or acidic how would you make this land arable( animals are a possibility) vague steps will be ok
+melinda Lancaster You would not stack it as high, but make the pile wider. It becomes a very nice growing bed after that in about 4-6 month. Stack it about 60 cm high.
I thought the heat is a good thing. It comes from bacteria which eat on your material and turns the bigger molecules into smaller ones, which sets the heat free. Why not just let them do their job? If the bacteria work to busy they create to much heat for them to survive, a couple of them die and the heat stays at about 60° until there is nothing more for them to eat. Once the bacteria are done, the fungi should take over and finish what the bacteria started. That way you save time and water.
Great video, Just one question what are the things to see before using it to make compost tea
The answers you are looking for are in this video :)
How to make the Compost for Compost Teas - Fungal Dominated Compost Tea!
th-cam.com/video/_Vr7UkIS9EM/w-d-xo.html
Cheers David.
You have a very good approach.You keep things very simple and that is very good!
Both hot and cold composts are great and worth doing. Hot is beneficial for if you have weed seeds or diseased plants. Cold is great as you do not need to turn at all. The reason for keeping even the hot heap below 60c, is that the compost we make is for using in compost tea. All compost will get way hotter than 60 c if you make the pile high, only turning it and watering will cool it down. You end up with a much different bacteria, if it goes above 60c.
Credit to Dr. Elaine Ingham
David.
David, this is not word for word. I took your general statements and condensed some into sentences that still express what you are saying. I hope this is good enough for your translations. :)
Now I just wanted to show you how a compost area might look like. We have some leaf mulch here, now i spent much of the morning separating 3 different kinds of materials. There was a big pile ontop of that old compost pile there, we have a lot of these old branches, leaf mulch. What I've also done is shredded bigger branches and this pile here is green stuff, plenty of flies with vegetable, it will be mixed with brown stuff. Smaller branches, older compost pile here, lovely black stuff here with little branches which is important because too much carbon content in soil will rob nitrogen from soil. Softer branches are okay, bigger branches are not okay. Before we talk about how we make the compost heap, we talk about this heap I made two months ago. I made a video on it. We see black stuff in it, its half decomposed, twigs need to be broken, there is worms, worms are great. The compost has cooled down and some nasturtium flowers growing here.
How to make it: use brown carbon materials bark, mulch, paper, cardboard leaves twigs, then comes water, fungi and bacteria make use of it. Then branches are the brown and also allow air pockets to come into compost. Air is important for fungi to break down the heap, green material we use vegetable peelings, cow manures, then add soil for worms so worms can have it to break down compost material. Eventually we go back to browns, water, then greens, every now and then we use an inoculant, which is fungi found in the forest. Worm castings or adding sweet compost is very good for and innoculum. Another thing is, different materials in the garden, weeds, food scraps, leaves, branches, if you can make sure you have a certain amount of carbon and nitrogen (25:1) if you have these quantities in the right amount, the decomposition process will do very well. Easiest way to think of it is a sandwich, brown on the outside and thin layer of green inside. Also recommend, with higher compost, make levels of brown and green, add soil in-between, up to a meter or 2 meters, turn it once a day. It will heat up a lot and adding water will cool it down. I was using a thermostat to make sure its not above 60C, but u can leave it there for a day and if its hot to the touch you should turn it and water it, if its not hot then its okay. You can use this compost for compost tea if you care for it enough. Bring in microbes from a wormery or an old compost heap that smells sweet to ensure bacteria. Throw in fungi to innoculate every now and then. Quickly here, this is hyphen, (fungi decomposing this compost). Hope that answered a lot of question in regards to making your own compost, This is different from a wormery that's a low, 30cm high heap, we feed it by adding nitrogen and carbon materials and worms as well. Now if you have any questions drop a comment on TH-cam, Facebook or private message me, thanks for watching.
Hi Nigel,
Thanks for the feed back.
It is nice you got something out of it :)
Actually I was working on an organic farm for 5 years and part of my job was to test and experiment with many different methods, of natural gardening. So permaculture would have been also on the list. Many don't understand though that permaculture is mainly a natural design tool. It is not really just gardening, but how you design a farm or the area you live. I will be uploading some videos by Warren Brush soon :)
D
great looking heap! that was big!
An inspiringl addition to your wonderful series - highly watchable, information packed video's.
I 'organically' farm/garden 4 acres in Northern Greece and have lost count of how many times your useful tips have come in handy. I say organic; but it's rapidly looking more and more like permaculture.
Thanks for sharing.
Greetings from Greece!
Nigel
thanks for the video!Gardening is the best medicine for the soul....
Good looking man!! Hard working gardener , thank you for sharing.
Just subscribed, looking forward to seeing more ideas and tips from you on gardening, thanks for your info so far.
Thanks David. Your videos are always the most informational. i wanted to let you know the Russian kale seeds you've sent me are growing quite nicely in my own compost! :) thanks again. - Jillian
It would be awesome if you could a video possibly on beneficial insect hotel or how to keep beneficial insects around?
Always good information in your videos. Thanks again !
Great video! Thank you for the great information.
thanx for sharing your experiences, it empowers us people
i wish you a good, fullfilling life!
;-)
Very informative video Thank you for sharing it with us.
Thanks for your comment again David. It really didn't seem right to me from the beginning. I started a new garden and compostpile this year. The new pile wasn't heating up as I expected it would do, so that's why I started some research on the topic. But I'll definetly stick to the same conclusion to keep my pile and garden the natural way instead of the MacDonalds-way :)
Besides... who wants to spill beer anyway?? :p
Ha good one :) Macdonalds way. Love it. Did you build your heap high enough?
I live I have in uncovers 2 yon of organic leaf mulch 15 feet away is where large build up of grass cuttings could I start mixing it up or layer it ? It should say 2 ton will the mulch make a good bed for my potatoes ? Thank you .
Sorry I did,
As I made more instructional videos on the topic. The save vegetable seeds course. I thought to make more space. So I ended up deleting them.
Did not know you enjoyed them, or I would have left them ;)
David.
thanks for the video.
i'll try this, I seen people use compost too heat a green house. in winter mnth.
Thank you very much ... this is very helpful...
Thank you for the very interesting video. I am wondering if i can use such compost on a Raspberry plantation instead of using Cow manure?
thanks for this. How would the system change in a hot climate, with sand not soil? Dessert.
Thanks mate :)
D
The way I measure my efficiency is time. If I have a well built compost heap, you can have perfect compost with earth worms etc within 18 to 22 days. For this the outside day temperature should be in the 30's Celsius. Cover your compost heap to keep in the heat. Turn your compost every 5 to 7 days. In winter every 14 days, depending on the temperature.
Yes there are many ways to make compost and I also at times use the heated heap. Specially for use in compost teas. Just made a video on that and on how to do it correctly if anyone is interested. th-cam.com/video/_Vr7UkIS9EM/w-d-xo.html You may need to turn more though if you want the correct bacteria to grow. All explained in the video!
fantastic info
subscribed---excellent videos--glad I found yo
Hey thanks Dave ;) Appreciate it.
Hi there! I am getting as much info on compost for starting my own in my tiny garden. But what I don't understand is: Can I start the pile at any point of the month? And being the pile out in the open, if it rained a lot, wouldn't it get too wet? Doesn't it need coverage? btw wonderful videos! Thanks, Izzy
Yes, you can start a compost pile any time during the year. You need to have a pile that is at least 36" square so it heats up enough. There will be some compaction, so start with a pile that is at least 36"x36" and 60" tall and you will see it compact down to about 36". I go for a pile that is 40" in diameter and build it inside a 2"x4" circle of welded wire fencing that is 5' tall.
Moisten the pile throughout, but not excessively. It should be as moist as a well rung-out sponge. Cover the pile with 4 or 6mil black plastic to maintain the required moisture and prevent rainfall from soaking the pile too much. Allow it to heat up for a week or two to appx. 150 degrees Fahrenheit and then turn it, mixing the outside part of the pile to the inside. Let it heat up again and turn it again. Keep turning until it no longer heats up. Let it sit and decompose for a few more weeks. If you come across any worms while you are digging in your garden, take them and throw them in your compost pile at this point, when temperatures aren't so high. They will help break it down further and worm castings are one of the best fertilizers! Once you cannot identify the contents of the pile, your compost is finished. See what I wrote above for additional information. A good book to read on soil and composting is called: "Teaming With Microbes." Good luck Lisa!
This seems like a dumb question but I have to work it out in my head.. In the city I had a compost pile I just kept adding and turning but because I was always adding to it, it was never a "finished product". Now I am on a 2 acre place and actually want to use my compost. I watch your video and several others and understand the pile basics but apparently you don't just keep adding to the pile. So do you have a small pile in waiting, for the next big pile? I like piles instead of bins and have space. I see in this video you do have some separate piles. I am assuming you cant just pile kitchen waste in a pile for a long time or it gets funky. This is where my mind gets overwhelmed imagining multiple piles in various stages. Ahhhh! Help me sort this out in my head please!! What is your system throughout the year?
If I may say, there are no dumb questions only dumb people telling you your questions are dumb.
Anyways Compost does take some time before it is fully broken down. I generally would try and get enough greens and browns together to make enough for one heap. If it is a hot heap then turning it needs to be done as well otherwise leaving a low pile around the place is also a great way to get compost. Often this is the best approach if you wish to have a pile that has gone through all the different stages of decomposition and you do not mind waiting a bit longer. A hot heap is used to get there faster and to kill all the pathogens ans weed seeds if they were added to the pile. But to answer your question - keep it simple by just using the compost only then when you do not recognize what you originally put in it. I have several piles on hand at all times that do different things for me, but then I run a farm. I have worm compost for compost teas and other experiments I am running. I have a hot pile for all the problem material and I have many cold heaps that I just let nature what nature does best. The correct lifeforms go into those piles at the correct time. No need to do much at all. If I need compost and the piles are only half done then I will sieve them and get the compost out of those piles. Last but not least my focus for most of the organic matter is to apply it on as a mulch. Just as nature does it. Most of the compost I use is made into sowing compost and some as a starter for small plants. Hope that helped otherwise feel free to keep asking.
David.
Thank you for your reply. It really helps. I have to say, I love your videos. Very informative and I feel more confident after watching several. I have a very limited budget and have l so many ideas. I feel like I can do this! You do great work.
You say that the ideal ratio is 25 or 30:1, but what how thick does this make each of the green and brown layers? Thanks!
Great video david
wow you said 60 degrees so i looked up Fahrenheit and its 140. That's hot!!! didnt think it could get that hot
Hi! Just wanted to ask what the name of the track at the beginning of the video is, cheers!!
Yep! As you say; permaculture is a lifestyle - working with nature by design.
Interesting to hear of your experimental work; it's an exciting way forward.
Looking forward to the Warren Brush videos.
Do you recommend compost for larger operations?
Thanks
Cullen Blazek - The larger the operation. Its easy to assume the larger amount of waste being generated. As such it seems to make even more sense.
On really LARGE operations I could imagine a totally independent line of business . Self sustainable and profitable. Judging by the almost absurd prices people in first world countries pay for a simple bag of compost or potting soil.
Add on top that many countries support, via subsidies, ECO industries...
Well I wish I add some capital for investment. LOL :-)
Cheers
I AM SO HAPPY AND SO GREATFULL OF ALL INFORMATION THAT I GET FROM YOUR VIDEOS AND I WILL USE THEM WITH SO MUCH SECURITY
BUT I LIKE TO KNOW HOW AND HOW BUY ALL THIS WORM AND WERMICOMPOST
I WILL BE SO HAPPY TO LESSEN FROM YOU
KOM WITH MORE VIDEOS
SO MANY REGARDS
MORAD
Hey no prob
Glad it helped. But as for cost, most things are very cheap or can be gotten for free ;)
Try farms and waste centers for compost hay and leafs or even grass clippings. You then just let the worms make the compost.
D
I have lots of woodlice in my compost bins and Ants Thousands of them what should I do ?
What is wood lice?
All activity is good... but if you have these two activities then I know 1. Your compost is too dry 2. You need to turn it.
David, I was searching through your videos and I could not find seeds of heritage 2, 3, 4 or any other ones ? Did you delete them ? Why ? I thought they were awesome videos and watched them like 20 times each
Great videos
Thanks again Sir
It is hard to turn a compost pile with big sticks in it.
Ha, so does all of nature right :)
Make it a habit to always stick that pitch fork into the ground when not in use. I have an old scar from a carelessly left pitch fork.
Best for Plants
My heap would be in the area where my dog urinates. Is that considered green?
It does not do any harm. Compost is normally only added into the soil. If you use it as a mulch then plan to have 2 month between your harvest and after adding your compost mulch. But do not worry. Urine is full of nitrogen. Really needed for compost making.
how broken down does it have to be to work as potting soil? i know the compost i brought from the store was still very brown and chippy when it dried out and that doesnt work, my situation is im collecting tropical fruit seeds and tying to grow them in a cool climate but for years ive been held up by only being able to use potting mixes and compost i could buy and nothings grown at all for atleast 3 years its horrible but talk about learning the hard way.. ive got a pile now thats notfully broken down but i need to use it asap, im a bit worried im gonna run short aswel so i didnt want to sift to much out, i also dont have anything i could use as a sifter so yeh lol the decade old potting mixes that my house plants are in is so smooth and spongey and loose its crazy, i wish i had lots of that lol
You have kinda answered your own question and in the back of your head you already have the answer. Try using the area in your heap that has the least bits in it and looks most like well decomposed compost. As it is used for potting and not for sowing you should be able to get away with it.
i ended up finding an old plastic shopping basket that was my pops before he passed that has holes in it so ill put that to good use :) thanks pop, cheers bro :)
Do you know the work of Ernst Gotsch? It looks similar in some ways, and lives up to the name of your channel: Work with nature.
Greetings from Brazil.
Nope but thanks :)
what are the brown and green materials list
If you watched the video, maybe you would know
if the compost goes over 60 degrees does it ruin the compost or can you just leave it without turning it?
It just makes for a lower grade compost.
What happens if you eat your compost??
+RougeSamurai77 Then you will not go hungry.
It's 6 years later, are you still there?
Nice
if you had 2.5 acres of baron land which was rather rocky with little green life it was neither saline or acidic how would you make this land arable( animals are a possibility)
vague steps will be ok
+Trent Williams How long can you wait. You could grow lots of trees. better bring in some top soil as your soil is gone ;)
See "Richard Perkins" and choose which systems appeal to you.
Trent Williams - That´s a perfect case scenario for wood chips. BTW A LOT of them. ;-)
Cheers
cool...
Sawdust green? What?
if the temperature is warm in India wouldn't the compost pile temperature be hotter.
+melinda Lancaster You would not stack it as high, but make the pile wider. It becomes a very nice growing bed after that in about 4-6 month. Stack it about 60 cm high.
Talk to the hand
I always think composting compost smells like pet store.
Dam this guy is smoking HOT!
I thought the heat is a good thing. It comes from bacteria which eat on your material and turns the bigger molecules into smaller ones, which sets the heat free. Why not just let them do their job? If the bacteria work to busy they create to much heat for them to survive, a couple of them die and the heat stays at about 60° until there is nothing more for them to eat. Once the bacteria are done, the fungi should take over and finish what the bacteria started. That way you save time and water.
Pee on it also helps
naa , my chicken do that job better than I can !