looking forward to seeing the supercharger engaged... For the summer , a simple beach cooler packed with ice and Pc fans might help with the AC situation.
to be honest...jerry-rigging a small window air conditioner and an inverter should do the trick...no more than 1 and a half horses needed for that at most...
You could "automate" the alternator cutoff by making it a button mounted on the floor under the gas pedal - If you're accelerating normally, alternator stays on, floor it and it cuts off the alternator.
Excellent Vid! I was using the alternator switch idea 30 years ago in my boy racer days. Mostly nights actually and I knew the alternator was a load when every bit of HP counted. I upgraded the regular Switch to a Vacuum switch so I didn't have to remember it in the heat of battle or to turn it back on later... which may have been more important going on experience. The vac held the switch on and when floored, there was no vac so the switch disconnected and everything shut off. Let off the throttle and it all kicked in again. Worked well. Way I had it the thing would disable the alternator, the AC and cabin blower and the engine cooling fan. Hey, I was going fast so plenty of air through the radiator till I slowed down and let off the throttle. Alternators as you said are inefficient, very much so on cars, so the power saved electrically was much more at the crankshaft. The vac switch was good for when you just wanted to go up a hill or burn someone off spur of the moment. A brake light switch on the throttle could also be used with a DPDT relay in your application. When the throttle is up at idle the alt is active and when you mash the pedal the alt drops out through the DPDT relay. I use that setup on the water injection on my 4WD. Those little permanent magnet alternators are also found on my smaller Kubota diesels as well. This was a great Vid and I certainly hope you do more. I knew all this but it was still very entertaining as per usual and typically well presented. I'm sure a lot of people did learn from it and will in other similar vids which I look forward to seeing.
Thanks for the bonus video, I now have an understanding of alternators used on small engines. This is good information for that Predator V-Twin powered track-T that I will NEVER build.
Looks like you brought some Michigan with you after moving (weather). It's been the same here in Michigan. Michigan never gets the memo on spring. It's just that turbulent chaotic battle between winter and spring until summer just steps in and sends them both off. Anyways, always impressed by your vast and wide knowledge of electronics. This was a great video, and extremely well explained. I don't have nearly your expertise in electronics, and yet it was very easy to follow along/understand it. I liked that you showed the demo on the dyno of what would happen with a car alternator instead. Seems like you definitely made the right call on alternator choice. Feels somewhat ironic that it needs such a careful choice of alternator, given that while this one was a cement mixer engine, they're also in the same vain as those used as generators for houses.
Thank you for explaining why the coil does not generate enough energy on it's own to run everything. I was curious about that since the beginning of the build. It also explains why the headlights in my lawn mower stink!! Thanks for all the great content Jimbo. I'm going through the back catalog now 🙂
This was fun! I like this kind of content, and the techy stuff is why I subbed to you. It's also a bonus that the techy stuff leads to answers to questions no one asked, the entire premise behind the car. It's a chaotic masterpiece.
Awesome the adjustable bolt with an eyelet is just the idea I need to complete this same set up I'm making using a Ford alternator with an A belt and a 3 predator motor. I am putting a 2 horse required 2 cylinder compressor on the other side. 12Volts and air at the pull of a cord.
This video was really helpful for me. I’m running a Diesel engine in a lawn mower and it has no electrical components at all so it doesn’t charge a battery on its own.
I may be mistaken, but the permanent magnets mean this unit is a DYNAMO. (not an alternator) Dynamo's are well known for reliability because there are no 'brushes' ....as long as the regulator is robust.
@@erik_dk842 Actually, smaller-older motorcycles also used a brushless dynamo. My old 1960s Yamaha went one step further by using the dynamo as a STARTER too.
@@brucepeebles4939 If there are no brushes, they can only produce AC. The distinction wasn't clear back then. I know dynastarters, both they are actually alterstarters. In USA, they got it backassawkward, so they call dynamo's, which rectify the generated AC internally to DC by a segmented commutator, generators.
Mr. Cantina, You made my day by recognizing my comment in to a video clip. Got to keep those headlights on so you can be road legal you know... Lol. I'm going to send you a little gift for this recognition. Love this bonus video. Keep up the great work.
I love that your DIY car has the same alternator issue as my 2006 Toyota Matrix 😂 My alternator has 3 stator magnets in it, 1 of them died so it doesn't charge at idle anymore. Been going over a year like this and have a spare alternator in the hatch waiting for the day it dies altogether 😂 I'm just careful not to idle under 900rpm for more than a few minutes. Starting up is always 1200-2000rpm so I can idle it while it warms up no problem!
Just want to say your diagram for the wiring on the GM style alternator was helpful! I've been screwing around trying to figure out how to wire up the alternator for my pickup truck because all the wiring was cut and that answered my question!
I once built a Amish battery charger from a old 8hp Briggs with a 140A GM alternator and it would make that Briggs work under a full load keeping 2 4D Diesel batteries charged while running a 2000W backup inverter.
Thanks for another enjoyable video! I don’t think it was off-topic at all - power generation and the mitigation of power loss through belt driven accessories are both big factors in maximizing performance. That big Delco alternator will suck 5-6 horsepower all by itself (and maybe more, depending on frictional losses through the drive), so the John Deere unit seems like a wise move. Well done!
Like the video. Yes, that GM alternator will rob almost 3hp at wide open throttle. Permanent magnet is the most efficient since you eliminate the 0.4-0.5 amp current needed for excitation. A wind power generator, rewound to generate power at a lower rpm could be an option. Most have permanent magnets, but are too pricey right now to consider as an option. 👍
Jimbo, I know you say you don't want to use an automotive alternator, that's cool. If the biggest sticking point is literally wanting the ability to turn it off during power runs I believe that the "idiot light" is actually used to excite the alternator into working. Older alternators like that would often not charge the battery if the alternator warning light had blown (particularly older Mitsubishi's). If you fit a DPST (or DPDT) switch and use that to break the connection to both pins 1 and 2 (idiot light and ignition switch) that should hopefully let you turn the alternator off. I imagine this would be a fairly simple test and may open up avenues for you later :)
The car alternator still the best option for your application. The JD alternator with permanent magnets have drag 24/7 no matter what, but the car alternator just disconnect the regulator output to the brushes for the rotor, almost 0 drag, they spin effortless without an energized rotor
I wonder if the charging needs could be achieved by regenerative braking when your foot is off the throttle by running a GM alternator off the transmission output of the car. Using the car's mass to store kinetic energy that you only harvest when not accelerating.
The John Deere alternator would be better for this scheme. As mentioned toward the end of the video, the GM alternator can't be turned off once excited. The JD can, however. If the JD alternator was coupled to the driveshaft and the excitation switch piggybacked to the stoplight switch on the brake pedal, you might have a chance of recovering some of that energy as electricity.
Ooohhh yessir. I love the off-topic, yet totally related, videos. Very entertaining edits to your content, and a great amount of knowledge serving. I had a good time 👍🏻
It'd be very interesting to see an alternator used on a go kart to power a motor connected to the wheels, similar to how diesel-electric transmissions work in a locomotive!
That alternator cheater switch reminds me of something I used to have on my old underpowered street racing type Hondas. I would have the AC compressor clutch and alternator field run through relays and to a button that I installed on my gear shifter. That way I could push the button when I needed max lame acceleration. Good times
If you're used to GM stuff surely you're as much of a fan of the AD244 alternators as I am... cheap at the junkyard and capable of nearly 200DCa when cold!
You should research old Delco Generator/Starter on small engines, basic and still available. Generator self exicites does not draw the engine down as the v cutoff opens , and you can adjust voltage and current. No rectifier and you delete ,or redundant system the starter
On my moped, I set up a battery to run the lights which charges from a full bridge rectifier on the existing lighting coil. I disconnected the frame ground of the coil, so I could put each side of the coil to the two AC pins of the rectifier respectively. And since the coil isn't grounded, hooking up the negative pin to the DC circuit didn't cause any shorts. There's still a *bit* of a paradox, as the lights themselves still have frame ground which is shared with the AC points ignition system, but it doesn't drain the battery overnight and hasn't blown anything up yet, so I'm calling it good. I *do* occasionally have to top up the battery, as the single coil isn't really enough to keep it charged, though.
suggestion one thing you could try ... mount the alt to run off the drive axle or wheel ? it robs less hp. drive time vrs charge time it will do its job ?
@@mommapanda5736 I've been here since episode one of the 212 and I'm still just waiting to see what that 670 is going to do! I'm enjoying the trip but I'm excited to see if a built 670 will meet or exceed original performance! Then there is the duromax 999.....
Great educational and entertaining videos. Anyone who has engineered any project would appreciate your work. I’m not sure if if it’s doable but you could try to incorporate a electric clutch like on a A/C compressor to turn off the generator to get maximum power. Not sure if it would be worth the hp gain. I know permanent magnet generators take some energy to turn even when not drawing power off them but I don’t know how much.
Interesting parallel video! My first thought was: the alternator will rob a few hp out of a low power engine. Switching it on and off solves that problem, but you're still adding some drag from the magnets and the belt (not much, but if you have the time, you could perhaps measure it by removing the belt). As for the internal coils, you could also detach and rewire the grounded end, to have full wave rectification, but it probably is enough for trickle charge and would be unnecessary extra work - unnecessary extra work is my specialty :-)
That was fun... Took me back to the good ol' days, seeing your oscilloscope from the... 90s? I remember our teacher brought out one from the 70s or 80s to show us HIS 'good ol' days.' Probably had vacuum tubes.
Hey Jimbo, The ribbed belt to the supercharger would be cool to run past a large hyundai sonata belted hybrid starter generator, you could use that as both a starter to start, a hybrid motor to get crazy 0-60 times and also to charge the battery! That system gets a lot bigger and complicated but it would be real neat! The other thing is, its a lot more efficient than a normal alternator because its designed to also motor very efficiently.
What if you can use alternator as a motor to further increase the power . It may need extra batteries and proper charging system but it can definitely work. Nice video .The rectifier explanation helped me a lot.
90s fords have a internal regulation alternator the 3g series. Very simple and 25$ at the upull yard. 3 wire hookup green/ red stripe is keyed hot input yellow/white is voltage sensing hook this to main output.
I pulled a 1 wire alternator off of a BMW suv and powered it 2:1 with my 420cc Duromax engine for my go kart. It works great! I can run my headlights, tail lights, and light bar without fear of depleting the battery. You can hear the engine rpm drop when the alternator kicks on, but it doesn't stall the engine, even at idle
20A diode costs $0.05 and a 2A ajustable DC-DC converter set to 13.8V costs $1. That will charge your bat from the internal coils but not overcharge it.
Your "GY6" Honda style regulator didn´t work because of the grounded coils. There are 2 styles of Honda regulators, full and half wave. Half wave regulators are used on older bikes or bikes without electric start, there are 2 coils (or a coil with 2 taps) that are grounded. One gets rectified through a single diode and charges the battery with the positive pulses, and the other one gets regulated to ~14v AC to power the headlight by shorting the half waves to ground with a triac when the voltage gets too high. Full wave regulators are used with bikes with electric start (as they need more power). There is a single coil (or many coils but only 2 wires come out) and it's not grounded. It gets rectified and regulated to charge the battery and everything runs off 12v DC. Both regulators can be 4 wires (2ac, ground and +) but the ones with 5 wires are allways full wave (extra +ign to eliminate quiescent current when the bike isn't running) To use the GY6 regulator you need to unground the coil and run another wire. Also I don't know if you can just parallel/series the coils like that as you can have problems with saturation (if you series them) or them being out of phase and cancelling their voltage. If you do this you should easily double the power.
Thank you for this info. I’m currently trying to run a 4 wire “gy6” for my Honda gx390 with oem charging coil (only one coil). Before I just ran it into an old Honda 2 pin rectifier, wire off the coil going in, and wire going out (of the rectifier) to the battery. This worked fine but was unregulated so it was bringing my battery as high as 16 volts with extended run time. I got rid of that rectifier and tried to wire in this 4 wire rectifier/regulator but since my coil only has one wire I figured this wouldn’t work. I tried anyway by only utilizing 3 of the four wires on the gy6 regulator and.. it SEEMS to be working? But maybe my system just pulls such small load that my battery hasn’t lost any charge yet. I run an electric start, and led headlight and tail light, that’s it. What are your thoughts on this? You’re saying to work properly my coil needs to be ungrounded? If so, I don’t think that will be possible for my application.
@@dsxfab3747 To run with a grounded coil you need a half wave regulator. I think you need to connect the coil wire to both AC inputs (top right annd bottom left), top left to battery + and bottom right to ground. If you need more power you can use a full wave regulator, you need to unground the coil either by cutting the grounding wire in the coil and soldering a wire, or by using plastic washers on each side and a plastic tube for the screw. Full wave regulators often have fins on the sides and top, while half wave ones have fins only on top and are a bit smaller. You can search for mopedarmy wiki for more info
@@nirodper thank you for the reply! For now, because its the simplest potential fix, I’ll try connecting both wires to my ac input and see if that changes anything. 👍
@@dsxfab3747 you can search in images for full wave moped regulator and half wave moped regulator and see what I was telling about the half ones having less fins, so you can determine what type yours is. You can also test for continuity with a multimeter. Glad to help
@@nirodper yeah, I really need to buy another multimeter. I actually broke mine right as I was going to test this set up. I dropped a wrench right on the screen so I’m sure it’s still working, I just have no idea what it’s trying to tell me 😂
That secret switch on the control wire of the regulator is something I been using on my yard kart with a Honda GX390 that has a 5255 (60amp) ford alternator and 8224 lawn mower battery on it. At an idle It’s enough to start a big block Chevy with a dead battery. I turn off the switch for high speed runs. It does about 50mph. That’s pretty quick for an old Murray explorer yard kart.
My mind is officially blown !! I just literally went through every bit of this 2 weeks ago I kid you not, I ended up with the exact same alternator, I bought mine from Amazon cuz they had an open box one for 20 bucks and I figured for R&D lol it would be worth it if don't last. I'm using an old friction drive 2 stage snow blower repourposed with the auger system and barrel removed. Honest to God I was in my shop thinking "I wonder how much hp an old gm 3 wire 100amp alternator uses ?" It was way more amperage than my little project needs but it was in my inventory of cool stuff to keep, anyway it bogged my brand new 390cc engine down way more than I figured under a heavy load so I started "researching" and ended up with the 20amp permanent magnet and it is right now mounted on the friction drive, sitting on my bench ready for me to figure out what I need for rect/reg this weekend. How amazing of a coincidence is it that one of my favorite channels puts this video out right now? This is scarey, I don't have luck like this. That did it, I'm hooking up the ground wire lol.
With a full bridge rectifier, you are taking advantage of the full AC wave from the generator. With two diodes, you are only rectifying half of the sine wave and thus, using only 50% of the power that is being generated.
You know I always love your vids, and this was no exception! However, technically that's not an alternator, especially if it has magnets instead of field windings. That means the drag will always be there, whether that switch is ON or OFF. And there should be no need for a rectifier because the output should be DC already. It will just need to be regulated! With that said, it's a good idea still because the power losses will be few compared to a standard Delco alternator that can draw 5HP or so when fully fielded! 😎 Also forgot, the solar panel ideas aren't bad either! I have alot of radio equipment in my Jeep and a Raspberry Pi 3B that does aircraft tracking and feeds it to the web 24/7 and I have a nice solar panel up on the roof and a good charge controller feeding the power into the electrical system and on most days it helps keep up with the demand and keeps my battery in a charged condition! EDIT: I realize the unit can still produce AC current because of the way the coils are wired, so a rectifier would still be needed. I guess the windings are floating and not grounded to the unit frame.
With no current running through the windings, a generator will not absorb any significant torque. Only some torque is absorbed due to mechanical friction and magnetic losses in the iron of the stator, but that is minimal. To absorb or generate torque, a motor/generator needs to have two magnetic fields interacting. With the permanent magnets but no current through the windings, you have one field but not the other, so no power is generated.
Of course you can connect ground to the rectifier, with the charging coils. But not if the other side of the coils are also connected to ground! And that is probably standard so would require a modification.
Maybe you could stick alternators in the wheels and wire them to activate when you apply the brakes; regenerative braking! A solar panel could help too.
Interesting been gathering parts for my repowered 2n Ford project 🤔 be nice to run lights use starter was going to just plug it into a trickle charger but this is a nice idea
If you ever did use a automotive alternator I'd probably recommend one from a older probably carbureted 4 cylinder car. Usually smaller and around 45-50 amps. Just from what I find. But I also think some of the newer cars (I think from Toyota, maybe they all do now) have alternators that you could turn off even at idle. If you ever wanted to use a car alternator that is.
There are lots of one wire industrial / tractor alternator options in that 50 amp range. I have used a WIL 90013125 in the past with good results. At these slower speeds you're never going to get the rated power (thus load) out of it, which is a feature in this instance.
Have you thought about a Solarpanel on the Roof of the Car? Since you only drive it in good Weather anyways. And its free Energy without loosing Engine Power. And with enough Energy you could turn an Generator into a Motor and have like an F1 ERS System for Acceleration. A 100W Panel Generates ~8 Amps
This is automotive fun, energy harvesting is not automotive.This generator is single phase, so there is no way to use it as motor without rewiring internal connections
@@poprawa well of course but you can turn any "Regular" Car Generator into a Motor helping with acceleration and i think this would be a fun automotive experiment
In automotive performance parts supply company catalogs, such as Jeg's and Summit, you'll find mini-alternators w/mounting kits for use on dragsters that run a 12V+ system. Perhaps using one of these might help meeting any charging demands that call for more than 20A output.
Pretty neat little charging system, I thought of using a 2CV Ducellier alternator myself (about 40 Amps output), 'til I broke the windings on the one I bought cos it needed new bearings, and the pulley nut is tighter than a yorkshireman's grip on his wallet, and, well, I did a dumb... :P
I might be mistaken, but I'm not sure turning off this style of generator will save HP because it uses permanent magnets. An alternator only take up power when it's coils are energized to make a magnet field,but this type always has a field and generates power all the time.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
In this episode: Jimbo builds the world's most complicated space heater.
JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA builds world's most complicated space
heater.... LOVE THAT.... what do you think he should work on next??
When this season started and he said he moved to Kansas I just knew you'd find him lol
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, I think he should do some driving in the pretty prairie of Kansas...
Episode? You mean episobe? ( 0:06 )
@@Giuliana-w1f I think JIMBO just put that in to see if the audience would catch it!🤓
This mini-episode helps a LOT on other projects. Thank you for this and the whole series it self
🧙🧙🧙♂️🧙♂️ YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
@@mommapanda5736 💖💖💖💖
looking forward to seeing the supercharger engaged... For the summer , a simple beach cooler packed with ice and Pc fans might help with the AC situation.
to be honest...jerry-rigging a small window air conditioner and an inverter should do the trick...no more than 1 and a half horses needed for that at most...
That is a really good idea...Kansas can get hot and humid in the summer.. Thinking about the AC situation..👍cool.
@@ocdman202 OCD Man... The old timers used to roll down the windows...
@@mommapanda5736 did you see all of season one of ROBOT CANTINA??
@@ocdman202 🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
You could "automate" the alternator cutoff by making it a button mounted on the floor under the gas pedal - If you're accelerating normally, alternator stays on, floor it and it cuts off the alternator.
We call this a wot switch in the geo world. Wide open throttle. We turn off the air conditioning and alternator.
Bonus videos for the win!
🧙♂️🧙🧙🧙♂️ yes TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
The 2004 John Deere 790 small 3cylinder diesel came with one. So small thought about putting it on my Ironhead Sportster bike.
Im glad You’re back! ☺️
Thank you!! 😊
This is a very helpful video for other builders.
Excellent Vid! I was using the alternator switch idea 30 years ago in my boy racer days. Mostly nights actually and I knew the alternator was a load when every bit of HP counted. I upgraded the regular Switch to a Vacuum switch so I didn't have to remember it in the heat of battle or to turn it back on later... which may have been more important going on experience.
The vac held the switch on and when floored, there was no vac so the switch disconnected and everything shut off. Let off the throttle and it all kicked in again. Worked well.
Way I had it the thing would disable the alternator, the AC and cabin blower and the engine cooling fan. Hey, I was going fast so plenty of air through the radiator till I slowed down and let off the throttle. Alternators as you said are inefficient, very much so on cars, so the power saved electrically was much more at the crankshaft.
The vac switch was good for when you just wanted to go up a hill or burn someone off spur of the moment. A brake light switch on the throttle could also be used with a DPDT relay in your application. When the throttle is up at idle the alt is active and when you mash the pedal the alt drops out through the DPDT relay. I use that setup on the water injection on my 4WD.
Those little permanent magnet alternators are also found on my smaller Kubota diesels as well.
This was a great Vid and I certainly hope you do more. I knew all this but it was still very entertaining as per usual and typically well presented. I'm sure a lot of people did learn from it and will in other similar vids which I look forward to seeing.
The vac switch is a great idea!
Great explanation for the mini alternator. The sneek peeks are great!
I agree😊😊 Hope a video comes out this weekend... Love the sneek peeks. 👍
Done slipped up at 6:00 and gave the jungle site a name drop.
This series has taught me a lot about electricity, how it works, and gave me ideas for my hillbilly A/C concept in my car. Thanks a lot
My favorite "Episobe" yet
This is great. I have to stop mid stream. Will revise comment because I have a mouthful of insightful conjecture.
lol
Thanks for the bonus video, I now have an understanding of alternators used on small engines. This is good information for that Predator V-Twin powered track-T that I will NEVER build.
Looks like you brought some Michigan with you after moving (weather). It's been the same here in Michigan. Michigan never gets the memo on spring. It's just that turbulent chaotic battle between winter and spring until summer just steps in and sends them both off.
Anyways, always impressed by your vast and wide knowledge of electronics. This was a great video, and extremely well explained. I don't have nearly your expertise in electronics, and yet it was very easy to follow along/understand it. I liked that you showed the demo on the dyno of what would happen with a car alternator instead.
Seems like you definitely made the right call on alternator choice.
Feels somewhat ironic that it needs such a careful choice of alternator, given that while this one was a cement mixer engine, they're also in the same vain as those used as generators for houses.
Definitely not off topic. Thanks :)
Thank you for explaining why the coil does not generate enough energy on it's own to run everything. I was curious about that since the beginning of the build. It also explains why the headlights in my lawn mower stink!! Thanks for all the great content Jimbo. I'm going through the back catalog now 🙂
This was fun! I like this kind of content, and the techy stuff is why I subbed to you. It's also a bonus that the techy stuff leads to answers to questions no one asked, the entire premise behind the car. It's a chaotic masterpiece.
I agree... Chaotic masterpiece is a good description. 🖼🖼 The answers to questions no one asked is how I learn things..🤓
Awesome, thank you!
FANTASTIC bonus video! Thank you!
Agree this is a great bonus video... what would you like to see in future videos??🚙🤓
Good stuff! I didn't even know those mini alternators existed. Education is fun.
Found on Kubotas as well.
@@glumpy10 Thanks man! I'm writing this stuff down just like I'm back in school and loving it!
@@KentuckyFriedFixes 👍👍👍
Awesome the adjustable bolt with an eyelet is just the idea I need to complete this same set up I'm making using a Ford alternator with an A belt and a 3 predator motor. I am putting a 2 horse required 2 cylinder compressor on the other side. 12Volts and air at the pull of a cord.
This video was really helpful for me. I’m running a Diesel engine in a lawn mower and it has no electrical components at all so it doesn’t charge a battery on its own.
I may be mistaken, but the permanent magnets mean this unit is a DYNAMO. (not an alternator) Dynamo's are well known for reliability because there are no 'brushes' ....as long as the regulator is robust.
Wrong. Dynamos make DC power without any rectifier. This is a permanet magnet Alternator, producing single phase AC, like smaller/older motorcycles.
@@erik_dk842 Actually, smaller-older motorcycles also used a brushless dynamo. My old 1960s Yamaha went one step further by using the dynamo as a STARTER too.
@@brucepeebles4939 If there are no brushes, they can only produce AC. The distinction wasn't clear back then. I know dynastarters, both they are actually alterstarters. In USA, they got it backassawkward, so they call dynamo's, which rectify the generated AC internally to DC by a segmented commutator, generators.
I enjoy your narration. Informative yet humorous.
Any video you make is full of information that i cant begin to understand, but I like feeling like Im learning something.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
@@mommapanda5736 Are we going to see any more gnomes in this series??🤡🤡
@@ocdman202 Well, I hope so...
THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Mr. Cantina,
You made my day by recognizing my comment in to a video clip. Got to keep those headlights on so you can be road legal you know... Lol.
I'm going to send you a little gift for this recognition.
Love this bonus video. Keep up the great work.
LOL, I'll put those bolts in soon....
@@robotcantina8957 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
"I'll put those screws in later, not now"
Hmm, think he knows where they are? Lmao.
Amazing videos, great work!!!
I love that your DIY car has the same alternator issue as my 2006 Toyota Matrix 😂
My alternator has 3 stator magnets in it, 1 of them died so it doesn't charge at idle anymore. Been going over a year like this and have a spare alternator in the hatch waiting for the day it dies altogether 😂 I'm just careful not to idle under 900rpm for more than a few minutes. Starting up is always 1200-2000rpm so I can idle it while it warms up no problem!
Just want to say your diagram for the wiring on the GM style alternator was helpful! I've been screwing around trying to figure out how to wire up the alternator for my pickup truck because all the wiring was cut and that answered my question!
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN.. do you have a comment or are you just
a smart looking man??
@@mommapanda5736 I am a smart looking man....🤓🤓
I once built a Amish battery charger from a old 8hp Briggs with a 140A GM alternator and it would make that Briggs work under a full load keeping 2 4D Diesel batteries charged while running a 2000W backup inverter.
Thanks for another enjoyable video! I don’t think it was off-topic at all - power generation and the mitigation of power loss through belt driven accessories are both big factors in maximizing performance. That big Delco alternator will suck 5-6 horsepower all by itself (and maybe more, depending on frictional losses through the drive), so the John Deere unit seems like a wise move. Well done!
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
Excellent video and good teaching instructions. Thank you for the knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
@@robotcantina8957 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Like the video. Yes, that GM alternator will rob almost 3hp at wide open throttle. Permanent magnet is the most efficient since you eliminate the 0.4-0.5 amp current needed for excitation. A wind power generator, rewound to generate power at a lower rpm could be an option. Most have permanent magnets, but are too pricey right now to consider as an option. 👍
🧙🧙♂️🧙🧙♂️yes to JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA
@@mommapanda5736 Are we going to see any more gnomes in this series??🌟🌟🌟
@@ocdman202 Well, I hope so..
Jimbo, I know you say you don't want to use an automotive alternator, that's cool. If the biggest sticking point is literally wanting the ability to turn it off during power runs I believe that the "idiot light" is actually used to excite the alternator into working. Older alternators like that would often not charge the battery if the alternator warning light had blown (particularly older Mitsubishi's).
If you fit a DPST (or DPDT) switch and use that to break the connection to both pins 1 and 2 (idiot light and ignition switch) that should hopefully let you turn the alternator off. I imagine this would be a fairly simple test and may open up avenues for you later :)
That is really helpful I was actually looking for miniature alternators earlier in the week for my latest project.
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@@ocdman202 ocd Man === do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I am smart because I watch ROBOT CANTINA....🤓🤓🤓🤓
@@ocdman202 JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA IS THE GENIUS..
The car alternator still the best option for your application.
The JD alternator with permanent magnets have drag 24/7 no matter what, but the car alternator just disconnect the regulator output to the brushes for the rotor, almost 0 drag, they spin effortless without an energized rotor
I wonder if the charging needs could be achieved by regenerative braking when your foot is off the throttle by running a GM alternator off the transmission output of the car. Using the car's mass to store kinetic energy that you only harvest when not accelerating.
Could also have a voltage dependent charge during cruise
The John Deere alternator would be better for this scheme. As mentioned toward the end of the video, the GM alternator can't be turned off once excited. The JD can, however. If the JD alternator was coupled to the driveshaft and the excitation switch piggybacked to the stoplight switch on the brake pedal, you might have a chance of recovering some of that energy as electricity.
Ooohhh yessir. I love the off-topic, yet totally related, videos. Very entertaining edits to your content, and a great amount of knowledge serving. I had a good time 👍🏻
Great Video
Thanks!
It'd be very interesting to see an alternator used on a go kart to power a motor connected to the wheels, similar to how diesel-electric transmissions work in a locomotive!
Thanks for the video. Useful information about sourcing and wiring the miniature alternator.
Yes... this is useful information... What would you like to see in future videos?
@@mommapanda5736 🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are
you just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I am still thinking about wiring the miniature alternator and
the space time vortex... I am a smart looking guy also... 🤓
@@ocdman202 Jimbo of ROBOT CANTINA is a genius...
Thanks! you just help me figure out a good solution to fix my charging problem on my motorcycle
🚴♀🚴♀
@@ocdman202 THUMBS UP TO ROBOT CANTINA!
This was a very useful tech tip for me personally, would welcome more as you make them.
Yes to this comment... I would also welcome more ... what other
tech tips are you looking forward to?
@@mommapanda5736 Momma I would like some tips on how to save money on gas⛽⛽⛽
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN.... I would start walking or riding a bike...
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, Don't even mention the price of gas... 🤣🤣
@@ocdman202 PRICE OF GAS!!!
Yes! I love this kinda video. Gives me ideas and shows how much work goes into the stuff for this channel. Thanks Jimbo!
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I have a comment..🤓
@@ocdman202 Are you making fun of my emoji??
That alternator cheater switch reminds me of something I used to have on my old underpowered street racing type Hondas. I would have the AC compressor clutch and alternator field run through relays and to a button that I installed on my gear shifter. That way I could push the button when I needed max lame acceleration. Good times
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@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, I have a comment. 🤓
I used to do half of this manually in my old Peugeot. AC off before overtaking, then on again.
Good info. I will use this knowledge to add some coulombs to my golf cart project. Thank you.
🛺🛺🛺🛺GOLF CARTS.. Wow that gives me an idea ... 😊😊
Super charger ! Can't wait to see it in action! Great job and thank you!
If you're used to GM stuff surely you're as much of a fan of the AD244 alternators as I am... cheap at the junkyard and capable of nearly 200DCa when cold!
You should research old Delco Generator/Starter on small engines, basic and still available. Generator self exicites does not draw the engine down as the v cutoff opens , and you can adjust voltage and current. No rectifier and you delete ,or redundant system the starter
On my moped, I set up a battery to run the lights which charges from a full bridge rectifier on the existing lighting coil. I disconnected the frame ground of the coil, so I could put each side of the coil to the two AC pins of the rectifier respectively. And since the coil isn't grounded, hooking up the negative pin to the DC circuit didn't cause any shorts. There's still a *bit* of a paradox, as the lights themselves still have frame ground which is shared with the AC points ignition system, but it doesn't drain the battery overnight and hasn't blown anything up yet, so I'm calling it good.
I *do* occasionally have to top up the battery, as the single coil isn't really enough to keep it charged, though.
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Excellent topic today. I had been wondering about your charging system.👍🏻👍🏻 I really enjoyed this video.
Glad it was helpful!
I guess we got a Tech Cantina this time.
Good stuff. ;D 👍
Yes to tech cantina!
I heartily approve of this type of video
ME TOO!
@@mommapanda5736 Momma Panda... What is it you like about JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA..🚙🚙🚙
do you like it when he goes slightly off topic??😘😘😘
@@ocdman202 I like when he does the bonus videos... JIMBO
OF ROBOT CANTINA reminds me of DOC BROWN OF BACK TO THE
FUTURE...
@@mommapanda5736 JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA reminds me of the professor on Gilligan's Island. 🏝🏝
@@ocdman202 I prefer when he goes slightly off topic..
Super charger looking good.
Thanks!
The alternator switch reminded me of the small motorcycle z125. It cuts the alternator for a little bit if your going WOT for a little extra power
suggestion one thing you could try ... mount the alt to run off the drive axle or wheel ? it robs less hp. drive time vrs charge time it will do its job ?
Awesome as always! Keep up the great work Jimbo and the crew!
I agree ...Awesome as always... What would you like to see
in future videos?? Keep up the great work Jimbo..
@@mommapanda5736 I've been here since episode one of the 212 and I'm still just waiting to see what that 670 is going to do! I'm enjoying the trip but I'm excited to see if a built 670 will meet or exceed original performance! Then there is the duromax 999.....
Great educational and entertaining videos. Anyone who has engineered any project would appreciate your work. I’m not sure if if it’s doable but you could try to incorporate a electric clutch like on a A/C compressor to turn off the generator to get maximum power. Not sure if it would be worth the hp gain. I know permanent magnet generators take some energy to turn even when not drawing power off them but I don’t know how much.
Loving these informal vids mr thanks for your time and patience
Me too! JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA does offer his time
and patience and expertise.
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, did you watch JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA season one??🔧🔧🔧🤓
I want to road-trip to this fun looking place
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD man.. Do you have a comment or
are you just a smart looking guy?
@@mommapanda5736 I am just a smart looking guy🤓
@@ocdman202 Well, I guess that is a good comment..
I truly, honestly and deeply want to daily a car like this project. I think it would be hilariously fun
🧙🧙♂️🧙♂️YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
MAN! I AM REALLY ENJOYING YOUR CONTENT! Right up my alley! Thank ya!
Interesting parallel video! My first thought was: the alternator will rob a few hp out of a low power engine. Switching it on and off solves that problem, but you're still adding some drag from the magnets and the belt (not much, but if you have the time, you could perhaps measure it by removing the belt). As for the internal coils, you could also detach and rewire the grounded end, to have full wave rectification, but it probably is enough for trickle charge and would be unnecessary extra work - unnecessary extra work is my specialty :-)
That was fun... Took me back to the good ol' days, seeing your oscilloscope from the... 90s? I remember our teacher brought out one from the 70s or 80s to show us HIS 'good ol' days.' Probably had vacuum tubes.
I think the scope dates from the mid 80's insanely expensive back in the day, but only a few bucks on craigslist.
Thanks for the technical sidetrack. Keep it up, I might actually learn something.😄
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@@ocdman202 OCD MAN... Do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I have a comment..🤓
Hey Jimbo,
The ribbed belt to the supercharger would be cool to run past a large hyundai sonata belted hybrid starter generator, you could use that as both a starter to start, a hybrid motor to get crazy 0-60 times and also to charge the battery!
That system gets a lot bigger and complicated but it would be real neat!
The other thing is, its a lot more efficient than a normal alternator because its designed to also motor very efficiently.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
What if you can use alternator as a motor to further increase the power . It may need extra batteries and proper charging system but it can definitely work. Nice video .The rectifier explanation helped me a lot.
90s fords have a internal regulation alternator the 3g series. Very simple and 25$ at the upull yard. 3 wire hookup green/ red stripe is keyed hot input yellow/white is voltage sensing hook this to main output.
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@@ocdman202 Man,, Did you watch all ROBOT CANTINA videos yet??
I pulled a 1 wire alternator off of a BMW suv and powered it 2:1 with my 420cc Duromax engine for my go kart. It works great! I can run my headlights, tail lights, and light bar without fear of depleting the battery. You can hear the engine rpm drop when the alternator kicks on, but it doesn't stall the engine, even at idle
20A diode costs $0.05 and a 2A ajustable DC-DC converter set to 13.8V costs $1. That will charge your bat from the internal coils but not overcharge it.
Your "GY6" Honda style regulator didn´t work because of the grounded coils. There are 2 styles of Honda regulators, full and half wave.
Half wave regulators are used on older bikes or bikes without electric start, there are 2 coils (or a coil with 2 taps) that are grounded. One gets rectified through a single diode and charges the battery with the positive pulses, and the other one gets regulated to ~14v AC to power the headlight by shorting the half waves to ground with a triac when the voltage gets too high.
Full wave regulators are used with bikes with electric start (as they need more power). There is a single coil (or many coils but only 2 wires come out) and it's not grounded. It gets rectified and regulated to charge the battery and everything runs off 12v DC.
Both regulators can be 4 wires (2ac, ground and +) but the ones with 5 wires are allways full wave (extra +ign to eliminate quiescent current when the bike isn't running)
To use the GY6 regulator you need to unground the coil and run another wire. Also I don't know if you can just parallel/series the coils like that as you can have problems with saturation (if you series them) or them being out of phase and cancelling their voltage. If you do this you should easily double the power.
Thank you for this info. I’m currently trying to run a 4 wire “gy6” for my Honda gx390 with oem charging coil (only one coil). Before I just ran it into an old Honda 2 pin rectifier, wire off the coil going in, and wire going out (of the rectifier) to the battery. This worked fine but was unregulated so it was bringing my battery as high as 16 volts with extended run time. I got rid of that rectifier and tried to wire in this 4 wire rectifier/regulator but since my coil only has one wire I figured this wouldn’t work. I tried anyway by only utilizing 3 of the four wires on the gy6 regulator and.. it SEEMS to be working? But maybe my system just pulls such small load that my battery hasn’t lost any charge yet. I run an electric start, and led headlight and tail light, that’s it. What are your thoughts on this? You’re saying to work properly my coil needs to be ungrounded? If so, I don’t think that will be possible for my application.
@@dsxfab3747 To run with a grounded coil you need a half wave regulator. I think you need to connect the coil wire to both AC inputs (top right annd bottom left), top left to battery + and bottom right to ground.
If you need more power you can use a full wave regulator, you need to unground the coil either by cutting the grounding wire in the coil and soldering a wire, or by using plastic washers on each side and a plastic tube for the screw.
Full wave regulators often have fins on the sides and top, while half wave ones have fins only on top and are a bit smaller. You can search for mopedarmy wiki for more info
@@nirodper thank you for the reply! For now, because its the simplest potential fix, I’ll try connecting both wires to my ac input and see if that changes anything. 👍
@@dsxfab3747 you can search in images for full wave moped regulator and half wave moped regulator and see what I was telling about the half ones having less fins, so you can determine what type yours is. You can also test for continuity with a multimeter. Glad to help
@@nirodper yeah, I really need to buy another multimeter. I actually broke mine right as I was going to test this set up. I dropped a wrench right on the screen so I’m sure it’s still working, I just have no idea what it’s trying to tell me 😂
Cant wait for that 670. Turbo EFI. But I em equally excited for the 420 supercharger.
You can get 18A charging coils for the GX390 engine. NR racing sells them part# 31630-ZE2-W01
It also requires the matching flywheel magnet setup.
That secret switch on the control wire of the regulator is something I been using on my yard kart with a Honda GX390 that has a 5255 (60amp) ford alternator and 8224 lawn mower battery on it. At an idle It’s enough to start a big block Chevy with a dead battery. I turn off the switch for high speed runs. It does about 50mph. That’s pretty quick for an old Murray explorer yard kart.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
My mind is officially blown !! I just literally went through every bit of this 2 weeks ago I kid you not, I ended up with the exact same alternator, I bought mine from Amazon cuz they had an open box one for 20 bucks and I figured for R&D lol it would be worth it if don't last. I'm using an old friction drive 2 stage snow blower repourposed with the auger system and barrel removed. Honest to God I was in my shop thinking "I wonder how much hp an old gm 3 wire 100amp alternator uses ?" It was way more amperage than my little project needs but it was in my inventory of cool stuff to keep, anyway it bogged my brand new 390cc engine down way more than I figured under a heavy load so I started "researching" and ended up with the 20amp permanent magnet and it is right now mounted on the friction drive, sitting on my bench ready for me to figure out what I need for rect/reg this weekend. How amazing of a coincidence is it that one of my favorite channels puts this video out right now? This is scarey, I don't have luck like this. That did it, I'm hooking up the ground wire lol.
LOL, Sounds like your well on your way to success. Best of luck with the project!
@@robotcantina8957 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Kudos for the classic Tek scope!
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@@ocdman202 OCD man... Do you like these bonus videos??
Yes! Bring the tech. As a technician, I love it.
You could set a trigger with speedino to turn it off under large loads.
Love it, keep the format like this, bonus videos are fine, kisses :*
Thank you! Will do!
☺☺☺
@@ocdman202 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
I really appreciate you sharing all this wonderful wisdom.
Great work Sir thank you
With a full bridge rectifier, you are taking advantage of the full AC wave from the generator. With two diodes, you are only rectifying half of the sine wave and thus, using only 50% of the power that is being generated.
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment?? what is that
little green thing??
@@mommapanda5736 yes Momma Panda, I do have a comment.. 🚙🚙🚙
İki diyot ile tam dalga DC üretilir. Tek diyot ile yarım dalga DC üretilir.
You know I always love your vids, and this was no exception! However, technically that's not an alternator, especially if it has magnets instead of field windings. That means the drag will always be there, whether that switch is ON or OFF. And there should be no need for a rectifier because the output should be DC already. It will just need to be regulated! With that said, it's a good idea still because the power losses will be few compared to a standard Delco alternator that can draw 5HP or so when fully fielded! 😎
Also forgot, the solar panel ideas aren't bad either! I have alot of radio equipment in my Jeep and a Raspberry Pi 3B that does aircraft tracking and feeds it to the web 24/7 and I have a nice solar panel up on the roof and a good charge controller feeding the power into the electrical system and on most days it helps keep up with the demand and keeps my battery in a charged condition!
EDIT: I realize the unit can still produce AC current because of the way the coils are wired, so a rectifier would still be needed. I guess the windings are floating and not grounded to the unit frame.
With no current running through the windings, a generator will not absorb any significant torque. Only some torque is absorbed due to mechanical friction and magnetic losses in the iron of the stator, but that is minimal.
To absorb or generate torque, a motor/generator needs to have two magnetic fields interacting. With the permanent magnets but no current through the windings, you have one field but not the other, so no power is generated.
@@marco23p You are very right! I stand corrected about the drag! 😎
Of course you can connect ground to the rectifier, with the charging coils. But not if the other side of the coils are also connected to ground!
And that is probably standard so would require a modification.
Awesome video! This gave me an idea of how to wire up my dt-400 project of 12 volt output :)
My grandpa uses these for home built aircraft. Very well built.
I can only hear Mehdi from ElectroBoom say "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" every time you say it.
Good stuff, very interesting information 👍.
Maybe you could stick alternators in the wheels and wire them to activate when you apply the brakes; regenerative braking!
A solar panel could help too.
Great to see progress on the project👍
👍👍👍
@@ocdman202 THUMBS UP TO ROBOT CANTINA!
Interesting been gathering parts for my repowered 2n Ford project 🤔 be nice to run lights use starter was going to just plug it into a trickle charger but this is a nice idea
If you ever did use a automotive alternator I'd probably recommend one from a older probably carbureted 4 cylinder car. Usually smaller and around 45-50 amps. Just from what I find. But I also think some of the newer cars (I think from Toyota, maybe they all do now) have alternators that you could turn off even at idle. If you ever wanted to use a car alternator that is.
There are lots of one wire industrial / tractor alternator options in that 50 amp range. I have used a WIL 90013125 in the past with good results. At these slower speeds you're never going to get the rated power (thus load) out of it, which is a feature in this instance.
Have you thought about a Solarpanel on the Roof of the Car? Since you only drive it in good Weather anyways. And its free Energy without loosing Engine Power. And with enough Energy you could turn an Generator into a Motor and have like an F1 ERS System for Acceleration. A 100W Panel Generates ~8 Amps
This is automotive fun, energy harvesting is not automotive.This generator is single phase, so there is no way to use it as motor without rewiring internal connections
@@poprawa well of course but you can turn any "Regular" Car Generator into a Motor helping with acceleration and i think this would be a fun automotive experiment
In automotive performance parts supply company catalogs, such as Jeg's and Summit, you'll find mini-alternators w/mounting kits for use on dragsters that run a 12V+ system. Perhaps using one of these might help meeting any charging demands that call for more than 20A output.
Pretty neat little charging system, I thought of using a 2CV Ducellier alternator myself (about 40 Amps output), 'til I broke the windings on the one I bought cos it needed new bearings, and the pulley nut is tighter than a yorkshireman's grip on his wallet, and, well, I did a dumb... :P
You can get an automotive alternator that take a pwm signal to charge. No pwm signal, no charge, no additional load on the engine.
I had this same idea for small engine power generation. Seems like it would work well for road vehicles
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I might be mistaken, but I'm not sure turning off this style of generator will save HP because it uses permanent magnets. An alternator only take up power when it's coils are energized to make a magnet field,but this type always has a field and generates power all the time.
Great episobe!!
Yes, great edpisobe you noticed!
@@mommapanda5736 👍👍👍