The integra full size radiator OEM-type replacement like yours held up fine for me last year at the FIRM with a b series VTEC and 8,400 RPM. I see no problems with your choice
On the radiator bracket why not use a longer bolt and some washers? You hit one good bump it may fall out. Like others said don't flush the new radiator, it may clog it up.
the bottom brackets go on top of the lip and you dont need nut and bolt. you just need bolt. you want your highest point of your cooling system to be your radiator so it can burp easier. and you need to move your radiator more towards your passenger side. for future upgrades your headers might get really close to your fan.
Sealing off the gaps at the bottom top and sides make a big difference. All the air is forced to go through the radiator. I use thin alloy sheets and cut to shape or foam and silver tape.
Good call !!! Was about to say the same, I used old road signs for this on my miata and added on for a cover for my oil pan, you only see the stop sign from the bottom, i assume itll get some laughs if i catch air lol
That mishimoto should had been way more than enough cooling capacity, thats a 200$ performance radiator mate. There must be another issue, maybe your thermostat, fan switch etc.
Hey man, lower mounts should sit on top on the rail. also as a result the upper mounts would have fit without bending them Also, if your changing the rad, hoses, expansion tank and coolant, its only prudent to change the thermostat and water pump too, both are cheap and relatively easy
You do reiki Zoe that the coolant flows DOWN front the rad into the block then returns into the lower port on the rad so it was kinda stupid to mount it “flush” with the engine
My b18c type R KW supercharged Ek ran a dual core aluminum eBay rad. Stock fan. Lower temp thermostat and some water wetter. No temp issues ever. Was actually cooling to much on highway.
Did you take out the Thermostat for better flow . If you didn’t you supposed to take it out so there will be no restrictions flow in the flush process. Great video bro .
The radiator fill is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling system so you can bleed the system properly. I hope you readjust how you have the radiator mounted. 😕
Chris for real. Asr designed the brackets to work in the simplest way possible. If he had mounted them the way intended the upper brackets would’ve fit without bending them.
They are ASR lower radiator mounts. I’m not going to link any one company since we aren’t affiliated with any but type those mounts into Google and you’ll find them
Dude don't flush with your new radiator, it might get clogged up with the residue produce by the flushing.. if you really want to flush, use the old one.. i made that mistake back then and my 2rows all aluminum radiator went straight to the bin😓
You tell us not to comment was rude! What's the point of this article? I race with a cheap automatic radiator and it cost 50! No problems at all! For the past 25 years! And put a header on the motor already! Cool video!
Literally as I was about to type it's not a dual core with aluminum ends you stopped your own video lol. Good deal for how much you got it though, just make sure you always have a secondary auxiliary fan hooked up in case the first one fails, that's usually what gets these single core radiators.
Mike usually when you get them on eBay the stock ones come with the auto trans lines too but you just don’t use them. Cap them off if you got a manual.
@@tigris4149a2 In our country we usually buy the radiator without auto trans lines for any manual trans dc2 or civic. Maybe he can buy Accord's radiator, it's still full size and he can easily get the stock one without auto trans lines.
STOP taking the comments personal! It’s your car. There is no need to validate your decision . Keep providing quality content
The integra full size radiator OEM-type replacement like yours held up fine for me last year at the FIRM with a b series VTEC and 8,400 RPM. I see no problems with your choice
Good call on the full size! Rock a longer bolt and spacers for the top mounts and they will sit tight and flush.
Asr actually recommended using the reg bushings or the stock for the bottom bracket. I called them
On the radiator bracket why not use a longer bolt and some washers? You hit one good bump it may fall out. Like others said don't flush the new radiator, it may clog it up.
Or just cut about half or an inch weld it and re spray them, and mount above the lip
the bottom brackets go on top of the lip and you dont need nut and bolt. you just need bolt.
you want your highest point of your cooling system to be your radiator so it can burp easier.
and you need to move your radiator more towards your passenger side. for future upgrades your headers might get really close to your fan.
Exactly what I was thinking last time when you said about the overheat. That small radiator, even tho its "performance" can not handle the heat load
Use longer bolts and spacers/washers under the front top mounts.
Kevin Johnson yeah or just mount lower brackets the way they’re intended and everything fits the way it’s supposed to
Sealing off the gaps at the bottom top and sides make a big difference. All the air is forced to go through the radiator. I use thin alloy sheets and cut to shape or foam and silver tape.
Good call !!! Was about to say the same, I used old road signs for this on my miata and added on for a cover for my oil pan, you only see the stop sign from the bottom, i assume itll get some laughs if i catch air lol
Hm... I think the lower Brakets must be on top of the Metal. Then it fits on top better.
CivicNigga I agree on that one. Nice big radiator though, looks clean!
Yeah i think soo.
That mishimoto should had been way more than enough cooling capacity, thats a 200$ performance radiator mate. There must be another issue, maybe your thermostat, fan switch etc.
That black gunk could be radiator stop leak left over in that z6. Bummer.
Did you check your ECTs before and after this? Howd it turn out?
Hey man, lower mounts should sit on top on the rail. also as a result the upper mounts would have fit without bending them
Also, if your changing the rad, hoses, expansion tank and coolant, its only prudent to change the thermostat and water pump too, both are cheap and relatively easy
You do reiki Zoe that the coolant flows DOWN front the rad into the block then returns into the lower port on the rad so it was kinda stupid to mount it “flush” with the engine
My b18c type R KW supercharged Ek ran a dual core aluminum eBay rad. Stock fan. Lower temp thermostat and some water wetter. No temp issues ever. Was actually cooling to much on highway.
i would not do another flush. some atuff might get mixes in new radiator
For the upper brackets if you purchase a set of EK/DC brackets they will actually sit flush for you unlike the EG brackets that are tall.
How about making a spacer to go under the top mounts so that it can go down further on the radiator pegs. Just a thought
Hi! Could fit that radiator with slim dual fan in an eg6 with aftermarket exhaust header?
Did you take out the Thermostat for better flow . If you didn’t you supposed to take it out so there will be no restrictions flow in the flush process. Great video bro .
The radiator fill is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling system so you can bleed the system properly. I hope you readjust how you have the radiator mounted. 😕
Chris for real. Asr designed the brackets to work in the simplest way possible. If he had mounted them the way intended the upper brackets would’ve fit without bending them.
I was shaking my head the entire time he was 'reengineering' the mounting points.
How come u went with the full size radiator? Mate the aluminum is better
Can you link the lower mounts in the description or something... I’d like to do something similar on my car. Thanks
They are ASR lower radiator mounts. I’m not going to link any one company since we aren’t affiliated with any but type those mounts into Google and you’ll find them
what did you do with the trans oil cooler outlets???
Not used in a manual transmission
Run a longer bolt and washers, maybe tac the bolt onto the rad tab to make ot easier to install.
You might want to change your thermostat for one that opens at a lower temperature
What exhaust do you have?
Dude don't flush with your new radiator, it might get clogged up with the residue produce by the flushing.. if you really want to flush, use the old one.. i made that mistake back then and my 2rows all aluminum radiator went straight to the bin😓
I suggest you put an air intake on Robbie you will get a bit of power and noise you know that and it's also cheap but not necessary😉
Do you have any links to the stuff you used in this video? I’m thinking of doing the same setup in my build, thanks
Got the radiator from Rock Auto and the hoses from Pegasus Racing Supply
My man. Put some washers under the top rad mount so it goes lower
I was gonna suggest rear mounted rad. More cooling potential.
Thanks for the update. 👍
I would’ve used pop rivets to secure the new lower radiator mounting brackets.
Nick N lmao no. They’re designed to be bolted on which is far stronger than a rivet
You tell us not to comment was rude! What's the point of this article? I race with a cheap automatic radiator and it cost 50! No problems at all! For the past 25 years! And put a header on the motor already! Cool video!
Wanna sell your old radiator
It'll do the job just fine
Literally as I was about to type it's not a dual core with aluminum ends you stopped your own video lol. Good deal for how much you got it though, just make sure you always have a secondary auxiliary fan hooked up in case the first one fails, that's usually what gets these single core radiators.
Cut the top brackets,bend,& drill new hole would look cleaner.
You need put ac in your case it helps with water temperature
Wait...that full size radiator seems to be designed for automatic gear box.
Mike usually when you get them on eBay the stock ones come with the auto trans lines too but you just don’t use them. Cap them off if you got a manual.
@@tigris4149a2 In our country we usually buy the radiator without auto trans lines for any manual trans dc2 or civic. Maybe he can buy Accord's radiator, it's still full size and he can easily get the stock one without auto trans lines.
Drilling upside down into metal with no safety glasses....smh.
Wow, everything you did was all bad. I know this is an old video. Hope you got better at this.
First