Please don't do it exactly as Dave demonstrates for the sake of his on-camera speed. Set the DMM dial (wiper) first and then connect to the load. The wiper traces start to de-bond from the DMM's PCB if you rotate whilst the capacitor is charged. All reputable DMMs will not fail immediately but it does shorten the life of the wiper traces. Fluke has a paper on this degradation somewhere and they design and test for this specific 'misuse' to discharge caps; albeit at the expense of service life. I say 'misuse' but some of the Fluke training documents provided for various military customers actually state how to use the DMM specifically for discharging caps.
A good multimeter will discharge the capacitor just fine. If you use a crap multimeter, you may find that the capacitor ends up discharging the multimeter instead
Well as someone who regularly works with caps in the 500mF range with charges of 1000-1500V or a stored energy up to 560Kj I hope none of our 500 odd techs and field engineers see this video and think it will be OK to discharge these caps through a DVM ohm's range.
@@EEVblog Indeed, I remember a newbie field engineer trying to discharge one of them bad boys with a long screwdriver, the tech survived just, but the screwdriver was all but vapor
@@teresashinkansen9402 Depens on what laser they are being used on, some have banks of electrolytic capacitors to create the required capacitance and voltage rating while other lasers have used purpose made usually oil filled capacitors. But they are both just as lethal as each other. The name of the oil filled capacitor company that supplies us says it all really HighEnergyCorp
I wouldn't suggest to rotate the select as the contacts will "see" around 80-110mA at 240V (or 107-145mA on peak charged caps) based on the schematics we saw. I think that's a lot for wiper contacts and they will degrade over time (or the pcb trace). Maybe is better to disconnect one lead, select ohm/lowZ and then reconnect the dmm lead.
I will stick with using a larger wattage discharge resistor rather than risk smoking something in my Fluke 87 or BM869S, because , I kinda like them working as they are. I think the protection built into most meters is best treated like a measure of protection from accidental misuse, I just wouldn't push it as an actual discharge function on a common use scenario.
Bingo! One more Bob added to my list of uncles: The early Flukes did not have that protection but the Fluke clone made in Taiwan in 1986 has stood the test of time. Still after killing a meter that cost me 4 months of wages I had a 240V 2W fridge bulb wired to some clips in my toolbox. Every discharge gave me a visible idea how sick the rest of the supply was. Eventually halogen bulbs had no issue getting a 400V peak.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia My Tech school teacher was an army major and made us storing them prestiges meters in the 1000V AC position. He claimed the 0.7V diode drop was worth the extra protection!
That's one hell of a tip. I'm no electrician, and got a multimeter from my brother as a gift. It has been unbelievably useful so far in maintaining an old house, and it's always great to learn of more things it can do. Especially related to safety.
I once burned a 2 dollar crappy multimeter trying to measure voltage not noticing the dial pointing on resistance. Since then i check my 100 dollar fluke a 100 times when measuring voltage while drops of sweat splashing on the groung. Thank you for these very useful and life changing 7 minutes.
I have two budget multimeters from the Uni-T brand; only one of them has proper protections. Therefore, I usually use it for low voltage measurements. I imagine that many people, after conducting this test, will realize whether their multimeters are safe or not. Dave, as always, it's a pleasure watching your videos-there’s always something to learn. Greetings from Argentina!
I just received a capacitor discharge device from Aliexpress and now this video came up in my feed, pretty disappointed but learned something useful so a big thumbs up!
I pulled a random film capacitor from my junk drawer, it may have been there for weeks or months, but it still had enough charge to make a little snap when I connected it to my LCR meter.
First meter I used to troubleshot mains voltages was an Extech MA220 made by CEM (I think). Would blow/kill it's self, if you exposed the ohms range to greater than 200V. Even stated this is I'm the manual. And this meter was also rebadged by a dozen other companies too.
I once removed the flash unit from a disposable camera and took it to school. We had great fun harassing teachers with it. It finally broke and wouldn't flash, but it would still charge the cap. I figured it was unsafe to throw it away like that so I stuck a pair of scissors in the leads. BANG! Sounded like a firecracker in the library. Fortunately, we had a male substitute teacher that day and he was pretty cool about it. Asked what I wanted to do with it and I said to bin it since it was broken anyway, the only reason I discharged it like I did. Even the real class clowns were truly disappointed when it broke. We had a great time with it for a couple of days.
I've shocked myself several times on those camera flash capacitors. They can hold a charge for a long time, and they have a surprising amount of energy.
I keep an old 100w 100ohm resistor in the toolbox just for discharging UPS capacitor banks. Also good for quenching voltages induced on a disconnected line from a nearby live wires.
I've always believed never to switch to resistance mode if there is voltage on the component on test, that's something I read years ago, perhaps that was for analogue meters? In saying that I have accidentally done it many times, definitely going to check this out.
I wonder if the idea was to "Not switch the multimeters daily while there is current flowing." as to not start or stop current using the meter's pcb traces.
After getting the BM235 and the 121GW couldn't live without a low Z function... The only thing I would add is a mV range with low Z... I don't see a reason why it isn't there, but would be great to have, specially for the 121GW!! Fun fact, Scc at work is 1.21GW, I had to double check the numbers when I ran them 😂. "just enough to travel back to the future" is my answer when someone asks.
I expect some folks might be curious to see what voltages etc are present on the rotary contacts on different ranges and modes, phew, and different multimeters?
"if your multimeter didnt survive that, you shouldn't use it anyway" great advertisement of EEV Brymen series! In my past i fried some multimeters like that accidentally... Would you tell the same about connecting mains to Amp input?
The one thing that you will want to do is make sure you short the exact two legs of the capacitor. Sometimes on a busy pcb you need to pay attention what goes where. You wouldn't want to discharge the cap through another component. Also, if there are a number of capacitors with large voltage and capacities (sums of 470uF and up), shorting might release quite a bit of energy, some of which might go through pcb traces which may not like a rapid discharge. Consider using a power resistor to drain the energy in a more controlled way.
Sounds good. I shall try with my Jaycar QM1576 meter.. But after reading the Jaycar Junkcar rant I'm not so sure. Normally, I've used small light globe's. Also used to pre charge car stereo caps ( the big look what I got caps ) before connecting battery terminals.
I build guitar tube amplifiers. Depending on amplifiers design your filtering and DC voltage will vary but in principle you have pretty dangerous setup. Some small amplifiers will have under 100 uF filtering capacity and in the range of 300V DC. Though going bigger and with different topology you will have amplifiers with 300 uF or more and 430 plus V DC. Trust me it gets scary. Accidental discharge will kill tip of your probes and vaporize metal. Do not ask me how I know 😊 Anyhow discharging those is a thing. Normally every good design will have discharging resistor and strapping resistors if there are caps in serial connection in the first node. But even then it takes time for them to discharge because average value of discharge resistors is pretty high, for example 220k Ohm. That’s because you do not want those to pull your voltage down during on state. One could use on/on switch and by turning amplifier off you could connect lower value resistor to discharge the amplifier. Though all that can be avoided by good handling of the user himself. Just turn power off first and standby second when your amplifier is hot. Tubes will dissipate rest of the energy. Anyhow despite that modern DMM’s are protected good and the nature of the protection is progressive with the temperature I hate to use my meters to discharge caps on tube amplifiers. There is just to much energy stored and I hate to think it would arc in selector switch or somewhere else.
Recently i just use the side cutters (I held one side only) to discharge a cap. Probably < 200V, 100uF? Worked fine but yhea a good snap/spark, wasn't the best way. Next time I'll probably use a power resistor. 100ohm, 5W? The current won't be flowing long enough to heat that guy up. The only thing i can say is that the spark/snap is a good indicator that you got it discharged where as a resistor/meter discharge without audio/visual confirmation and as demonstrated Dave used the volts setting after to verify.
Didn't know I had an uncle Bob... Back in the day a Simpson 260 would not survive an encounter with that much voltage on the ohms range. It may discharge it but the meter wouldn't likely survive. I have a Fluke or 2 and some others I may try this with.
It is absolutely incredible that there is not a discharge resistor built into that design, which gradually discharges the filter capacitors. It must be a design flaw. In many designs it is quite common to have such a discharge resistor with high resistance in parallel that discharges the capacitors within 10 to 20 seconds for safety reasons.
LG washing machines have a discharge resistor embedded under conformal coating inside their mains filter. Generally they trip leakage breakers but one day intermittend shorts became permanent. Capacitors could self heal but who would believe a 1/4W resistor managed to blow a 20A breaker?
Thanks! Never knew! With that PTC in series, how does the meter accurately measure resistance? Is there some feedback loop that isn't shown? Or is the resistance shift so small for anything under 100C (meter starts melting on the grill) that it doesn't matter?
You're doing a fantastic job! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). Could you explain how to move them to Binance?
I found out that my cheapo Aneng AN8008 has low impedance when switched off. So to discharge capacitors I just switch it off and touch the leads to a capacitor. No damage whatsoever.
Does anyone know how to disable youtubes automatic translation? since a few days this seems to be my default "language" setting and the AI voice is terrible. also the titles and video descriptions are translated and i can't find a way to view the original
And it sound horrible - please only the orignal Dave if you can active decide what TH-cam is allowed to do with your videos . TH-cam doesent even understood that you a male - surely not with the deepest voice - but for very sure also not a (monotone, "not burning for it's own video) the female voice. For sure the AI have to" lern" a lot of before i will accept it - but will i accept it when Dave (or every other "youtuber") "speaks" in my language in his style in his voice ? Sorry but it fears me a bit - a step more in possibilty of deep fake and "get rid of the real people"
@Jumansa19 Why so negative, that's beta...I think it's very good if I can follow a video in my native language even with less concentration, in the future the creators can also use their cloned voice. It doesn't matter that the automatic voice doesn't fit now, it's all about the content. The rest will follow. I'm particularly looking forward to languages that I don't understand at all. There are many good creators who don't speak English.
@@bulldogge41 Hello I think i am not that negative, but not only in this case it's also the voice and accentuation language style that make the style of a good video. Yes you can switch active to the orignal, but not only in my case it ist "switched" by default to the region you living in - but i want the orignal by default and it seems that i am not alone with that wish - even it's quite unfair to the presentor. Yes it is a help for those who understand nothing in english, but it sounds extrem monotone. I think typical (?) users of the EEV Blog Channel (and other Channels that around technical and "scientific" thems) are able to understood english language. That "translation" service would be nice with the really "exotic" languages (mandarin for example) and or where a lot of slang and a realy hard local accent (scottish, deep south USA accent and slang, even "Schweizerdeutsch") is used by the presentor - but i don't recognized that service in that cases. perhaps i use the "wrong" channels ;-)
hello a question more from the youtube or production side of the video: I get a (bad - at least boring) translation of the video title in "my" language in the youtube "window" . that is not the case by most other channels i use. If this is done (allowed, accepted,...) bythe uploader - than it would be nice if you switch of that "service" - because the translation ist quite bad and sound like a official writing from you local goverment. If it is done by TH-cam: Any idea how switch it off, and how "they - TH-cam" decide witch channel (single video) is translated in the title (To be claer: i don't speak about the translation you can aktive switch on inside some video videos itself) ?
Same here from Germany. I've seen machine-translated video titles before, but never on this channel. At least the audio track defaulted to english for me, those ai translated audio tracks are so annoying.
is it safe to just change the mode while still connected to the charged caps? What if some modes like diode check or smth like that are between voltage and resistance mode and you cycle through them while 240V on probes. Couldn't this destroy your multimeter?
@@CamelCasee Two 19-inch rack panels (1.75" tall). Fits under the workbench. I use banana jacks (66 total) instead of switches for the resistors. All are bolted to the aluminum case and there's a fan.
I blew the two clamping transistors in my $80 Chinese 3-in-1 scopemeter by accidentally probing 240V mains in ohms mode. There is a PTC, but I might have stayed on the mains too long. The clamping transistors were too weak.
No discharge resistors to increase efficiency and lower cost. I'm surprised they don't just detect power loss than suck the caps dry, although that would cause surge when plugging it back in? If they're DC, if they're AC plugging in charged AC caps out of phase can be even worse.
I always use the LoZ function to discharge capacitors 😊 + I use it to trip the RCD breakers when I want to take out the power from a line in a modern building just by touching with the probes the live and ground connections with the meter in LoZ mode 😁 in order to avoid a trip to the electric panel 😊
meh, i dont know... the selector contakts are not desingt for this high Amp peaks, i think ... i use a wire brush ^^ or better, a tittle 230 V bulb, they can handle capasitors with 500 V
Решил проверить на своём Richmeters. Сунул щупы и раздался хлопок. Сейчас стою у каких-то ворот. Не знаю как я здесь оказался... Здесь похоже какое-то костюмированное шоу. Все в белых костюмах с крыльями. Мне разрешили дописать комментарий а потом заберут телефон... Видимо видеосъемка запрещена здесь...
I once tried to measure my car battery with a cheap multimeter in the 10A range. The shunt resistor desoldered itself at one end and jumped up from its hole in the PCB. I soldered it back and the meter has been working fine ever since. I should replace the "unfused" label on the jack with "resettable fuse".
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
I suspect a bunch of people are about to find out if they have a decent meter or not. 😂
Let's check if it's a lucky guess and do it again, to prove it's (not) a fluke😉.
Good one. My Chinese "9999 counts" one I have since 5 years now is going to be seeing this test 😅
Will not try this on mine ... it already smells like china😂
eevblogstore will come in handy then
(youtube censorship is going overboard.)
"I don't remember my meter having an illuminated display."
Please don't do it exactly as Dave demonstrates for the sake of his on-camera speed. Set the DMM dial (wiper) first and then connect to the load. The wiper traces start to de-bond from the DMM's PCB if you rotate whilst the capacitor is charged. All reputable DMMs will not fail immediately but it does shorten the life of the wiper traces. Fluke has a paper on this degradation somewhere and they design and test for this specific 'misuse' to discharge caps; albeit at the expense of service life. I say 'misuse' but some of the Fluke training documents provided for various military customers actually state how to use the DMM specifically for discharging caps.
It's sad to see this comment so low.
Fully agree
A good multimeter will discharge the capacitor just fine. If you use a crap multimeter, you may find that the capacitor ends up discharging the multimeter instead
Is there any way to transfer the charge back to the crap multimeter?
@@gblargg IBM sell a magic smoke bottle, you can refill through the banana jack.
@@EEVblog Those magic smoke refill bottles are super rare nowadays and cost a fortune.
@@EEVblog Look for the automotive smoke bottle from Lucas, not sure if that smoke still passes modern government regulations but it will work.
Super rare and expensive nowadays since it was needed so many times over the years, although it was far more rare to actually fix the problem.🤣
And if you don't have a half decent multimeter it will make sure you won't be using it again. XD
Well as someone who regularly works with caps in the 500mF range with charges of 1000-1500V or a stored energy up to 560Kj I hope none of our 500 odd techs and field engineers see this video and think it will be OK to discharge these caps through a DVM ohm's range.
You might come-a-gutsa
What kind of capacitors are those? electrolytic or metalized film, or something else?
@@EEVblog Indeed, I remember a newbie field engineer trying to discharge one of them bad boys with a long screwdriver, the tech survived just, but the screwdriver was all but vapor
@@teresashinkansen9402 Depens on what laser they are being used on, some have banks of electrolytic capacitors to create the required capacitance and voltage rating while other lasers have used purpose made usually oil filled capacitors. But they are both just as lethal as each other. The name of the oil filled capacitor company that supplies us says it all really HighEnergyCorp
I wouldn't suggest to rotate the select as the contacts will "see" around 80-110mA at 240V (or 107-145mA on peak charged caps) based on the schematics we saw. I think that's a lot for wiper contacts and they will degrade over time (or the pcb trace). Maybe is better to disconnect one lead, select ohm/lowZ and then reconnect the dmm lead.
I will stick with using a larger wattage discharge resistor rather than risk smoking something in my Fluke 87 or BM869S, because , I kinda like them working as they are. I think the protection built into most meters is best treated like a measure of protection from accidental misuse, I just wouldn't push it as an actual discharge function on a common use scenario.
Bingo! One more Bob added to my list of uncles: The early Flukes did not have that protection but the Fluke clone made in Taiwan in 1986 has stood the test of time. Still after killing a meter that cost me 4 months of wages I had a 240V 2W fridge bulb wired to some clips in my toolbox. Every discharge gave me a visible idea how sick the rest of the supply was. Eventually halogen bulbs had no issue getting a 400V peak.
Never, never, never do this if you are using an analogue meter, this virtually guaranteeing destruction of your meter.
Your Simpson might say "Doh!" to Bart but Japanese built ones have some form of protection.
That is why Dave was using a DMM and not an AMM.......
@@GapRecordingsNamibia My Tech school teacher was an army major and made us storing them prestiges meters in the 1000V AC position. He claimed the 0.7V diode drop was worth the extra protection!
I'd say: study your meter's schematic thoroughly, analyze voltage drops, identify components at risk.
That's one hell of a tip. I'm no electrician, and got a multimeter from my brother as a gift. It has been unbelievably useful so far in maintaining an old house, and it's always great to learn of more things it can do. Especially related to safety.
I once burned a 2 dollar crappy multimeter trying to measure voltage not noticing the dial pointing on resistance. Since then i check my 100 dollar fluke a 100 times when measuring voltage while drops of sweat splashing on the groung. Thank you for these very useful and life changing 7 minutes.
@@ammeydan isn't it automatic range?
There is a 100 dollar Fluke? You must have purchased it some time ago because up to $100 I only find an empty Fluke carry bag.
I have two budget multimeters from the Uni-T brand; only one of them has proper protections. Therefore, I usually use it for low voltage measurements. I imagine that many people, after conducting this test, will realize whether their multimeters are safe or not. Dave, as always, it's a pleasure watching your videos-there’s always something to learn. Greetings from Argentina!
If you don't have a decent meter, worry not, Dave has a good stock of EEVblog ones in stock to supply you with a new one when yours goes 'phut'!!
my stanley screw drivers have been doing this for years without having a fancy display ;p
Don’t wanna damage the Stanley
@@EarthSouthside Nothing some 80grit cant fix.
This is what I use except mines an old craftsman set I got from my Grandfather years ago.
Any chance of damaging your capacitors by discharging them so quickly?
sparking a screwdriver on the caps can damage current sensors from overcurrent pulse and the mangetic pulse could kill semiconductors.
I just received a capacitor discharge device from Aliexpress and now this video came up in my feed, pretty disappointed but learned something useful so a big thumbs up!
Glad I forked out the dough to buy this meter. Owned it for... Feels like years, worth every penny. 🤘
This is actually something super useful to know. That is awesome. When I work on my tube amps, this will be very handy.
I pulled a random film capacitor from my junk drawer, it may have been there for weeks or months, but it still had enough charge to make a little snap when I connected it to my LCR meter.
I've always used the loZ setting to discharge caps but never thought about using the ohms setting. Good one, thanks
First meter I used to troubleshot mains voltages was an Extech MA220 made by CEM (I think). Would blow/kill it's self, if you exposed the ohms range to greater than 200V. Even stated this is I'm the manual. And this meter was also rebadged by a dozen other companies too.
I once removed the flash unit from a disposable camera and took it to school. We had great fun harassing teachers with it. It finally broke and wouldn't flash, but it would still charge the cap. I figured it was unsafe to throw it away like that so I stuck a pair of scissors in the leads. BANG! Sounded like a firecracker in the library. Fortunately, we had a male substitute teacher that day and he was pretty cool about it. Asked what I wanted to do with it and I said to bin it since it was broken anyway, the only reason I discharged it like I did.
Even the real class clowns were truly disappointed when it broke. We had a great time with it for a couple of days.
I've shocked myself several times on those camera flash capacitors. They can hold a charge for a long time, and they have a surprising amount of energy.
I've shocked myself on camera on one of those, I think it was the Sony camera teardown or repair video. It hurts.
@@FrankGennari I hit myself with one of those as a kid. Couldn't feel my arm for a few minutes.
TIL that the cap voltage "coming back" is from dielectric absorption!
I keep an old 100w 100ohm resistor in the toolbox just for discharging UPS capacitor banks. Also good for quenching voltages induced on a disconnected line from a nearby live wires.
Me to, I have a huge 39 ohm resistor with two leads soldered to them and crocodile clips.
Cool! I'll have to try that with my Fluke 179. That should really get me going in my tube amp building and repairing practice.
I do own that same model of Fluke meter. Interested to hear how it goes, still hesitate to do similar test(s)...
Love these videos. I have a BM225 and had no idea this was a thing
I've always believed never to switch to resistance mode if there is voltage on the component on test, that's something I read years ago, perhaps that was for analogue meters? In saying that I have accidentally done it many times, definitely going to check this out.
I wonder if the idea was to "Not switch the multimeters daily while there is current flowing." as to not start or stop current using the meter's pcb traces.
I did not know this. Thanks Dave!
Thanks! I love learning new stuff.
Please do more :D
I used a 220V tungsten filament bulb with wires connected to alligator clips.
An interesting follow up video will be to measure the voltage and current on the PTC to show response to the heat while discharging the capacitor
After getting the BM235 and the 121GW couldn't live without a low Z function...
The only thing I would add is a mV range with low Z... I don't see a reason why it isn't there, but would be great to have, specially for the 121GW!!
Fun fact, Scc at work is 1.21GW, I had to double check the numbers when I ran them 😂. "just enough to travel back to the future" is my answer when someone asks.
Great tip ! Thanks you very much. For a high voltage capacitor like in microwave, it is possible to add a resistor 10 w between the probes.
I expect some folks might be curious to see what voltages etc are present on the rotary contacts on different ranges and modes, phew, and different multimeters?
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE disable the auto-translation with multiple audio tracks or make the original audio the default. The output is awful.
I had no idea this feature existed or that it was enabled.
"if your multimeter didnt survive that, you shouldn't use it anyway" great advertisement of EEV Brymen series!
In my past i fried some multimeters like that accidentally... Would you tell the same about connecting mains to Amp input?
I'm assuming this is better than just shorting the terminals with a screwdriver or a similar tool with metal ends?
Better. Not as exciting 🎉
Depends how much fun you want to have.
The one thing that you will want to do is make sure you short the exact two legs of the capacitor. Sometimes on a busy pcb you need to pay attention what goes where. You wouldn't want to discharge the cap through another component.
Also, if there are a number of capacitors with large voltage and capacities (sums of 470uF and up), shorting might release quite a bit of energy, some of which might go through pcb traces which may not like a rapid discharge. Consider using a power resistor to drain the energy in a more controlled way.
Sounds good. I shall try with my Jaycar QM1576 meter..
But after reading the Jaycar Junkcar rant I'm not so sure.
Normally, I've used small light globe's. Also used to pre charge car stereo caps ( the big look what I got caps ) before connecting battery terminals.
What are theese probe leads that you use?
Why not make (based on that), a simple discharge device that won't endanger your multimeter? 😢
There's tons online for a few bucks.
I build guitar tube amplifiers. Depending on amplifiers design your filtering and DC voltage will vary but in principle you have pretty dangerous setup. Some small amplifiers will have under 100 uF filtering capacity and in the range of 300V DC. Though going bigger and with different topology you will have amplifiers with 300 uF or more and 430 plus V DC. Trust me it gets scary. Accidental discharge will kill tip of your probes and vaporize metal. Do not ask me how I know 😊
Anyhow discharging those is a thing. Normally every good design will have discharging resistor and strapping resistors if there are caps in serial connection in the first node. But even then it takes time for them to discharge because average value of discharge resistors is pretty high, for example 220k Ohm. That’s because you do not want those to pull your voltage down during on state. One could use on/on switch and by turning amplifier off you could connect lower value resistor to discharge the amplifier.
Though all that can be avoided by good handling of the user himself. Just turn power off first and standby second when your amplifier is hot. Tubes will dissipate rest of the energy.
Anyhow despite that modern DMM’s are protected good and the nature of the protection is progressive with the temperature I hate to use my meters to discharge caps on tube amplifiers. There is just to much energy stored and I hate to think it would arc in selector switch or somewhere else.
Recently i just use the side cutters (I held one side only) to discharge a cap. Probably < 200V, 100uF? Worked fine but yhea a good snap/spark, wasn't the best way. Next time I'll probably use a power resistor. 100ohm, 5W? The current won't be flowing long enough to heat that guy up. The only thing i can say is that the spark/snap is a good indicator that you got it discharged where as a resistor/meter discharge without audio/visual confirmation and as demonstrated Dave used the volts setting after to verify.
Low Z is also a great way to test GFCI.
Didn't know I had an uncle Bob...
Back in the day a Simpson 260 would not survive an encounter with that much voltage on the ohms range. It may discharge it but the meter wouldn't likely survive.
I have a Fluke or 2 and some others I may try this with.
UT161E Manual: "Before measuring resistance, switch off the power supply of the circuit, and
fully discharge all capacitors."
Pussies.
It is absolutely incredible that there is not a discharge resistor built into that design, which gradually discharges the filter capacitors. It must be a design flaw. In many designs it is quite common to have such a discharge resistor with high resistance in parallel that discharges the capacitors within 10 to 20 seconds for safety reasons.
LG washing machines have a discharge resistor embedded under conformal coating inside their mains filter. Generally they trip leakage breakers but one day intermittend shorts became permanent. Capacitors could self heal but who would believe a 1/4W resistor managed to blow a 20A breaker?
400V Gleichstrom. Aha.
@@drulli1 "gleich riecht er"
I see you made progress on that Dumpster TV
I assume this will also work on a capacitor you would find on a heater or air conditioner?
Thanks! Never knew!
With that PTC in series, how does the meter accurately measure resistance? Is there some feedback loop that isn't shown? Or is the resistance shift so small for anything under 100C (meter starts melting on the grill) that it doesn't matter?
I would use a lamp prepared for this task.
I would try this with my £3 Temu multimeter, but I haven't made my will yet.
Would this also work for the big capacitor in an air conditioning condenser?
Yes, they're the same type of capacitor. You might have to let it discharge for longer since they're larger.
Yes, the bigger the capacitor the longer you leave it to discharge.
You're doing a fantastic job! I need some advice: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). Could you explain how to move them to Binance?
I found out that my cheapo Aneng AN8008 has low impedance when switched off. So to discharge capacitors I just switch it off and touch the leads to a capacitor. No damage whatsoever.
Does anyone know how to disable youtubes automatic translation? since a few days this seems to be my default "language" setting and the AI voice is terrible. also the titles and video descriptions are translated and i can't find a way to view the original
Yeah, now with youtube beta voice translation track.
And it sound horrible - please only the orignal Dave if you can active decide what TH-cam is allowed to do with your videos .
TH-cam doesent even understood that you a male - surely not with the deepest voice - but for very sure also not a (monotone, "not burning for it's own video) the female voice.
For sure the AI have to" lern" a lot of before i will accept it - but will i accept it when Dave (or every other "youtuber") "speaks" in my language in his style in his voice ?
Sorry but it fears me a bit - a step more in possibilty of deep fake and "get rid of the real people"
@Jumansa19
Why so negative, that's beta...I think it's very good if I can follow a video in my native language even with less concentration, in the future the creators can also use their cloned voice.
It doesn't matter that the automatic voice doesn't fit now, it's all about the content. The rest will follow. I'm particularly looking forward to languages that I don't understand at all. There are many good creators who don't speak English.
@@bulldogge41 Hello
I think i am not that negative, but not only in this case it's also the voice and accentuation language style that make the style of a good video.
Yes you can switch active to the orignal, but not only in my case it ist "switched" by default to the region you living in - but i want the orignal by default and it seems that i am not alone with that wish - even it's quite unfair to the presentor.
Yes it is a help for those who understand nothing in english, but it sounds extrem monotone.
I think typical (?) users of the EEV Blog Channel (and other Channels that around technical and "scientific" thems) are able to understood english language.
That "translation" service would be nice with the really "exotic" languages (mandarin for example) and or where a lot of slang and a realy hard local accent (scottish, deep south USA accent and slang, even "Schweizerdeutsch") is used by the presentor - but i don't recognized that service in that cases. perhaps i use the "wrong" channels ;-)
@Jumansa19
I wish that I can set for each channel separately permanently which language should apply to translation, subtitles and audio.
So this is a Good/Bad... Keep/Throw out multimeter safety selection test...😉
hello
a question more from the youtube or production side of the video:
I get a (bad - at least boring) translation of the video title in "my" language in the youtube "window" . that is not the case by most other channels i use.
If this is done (allowed, accepted,...) bythe uploader - than it would be nice if you switch of that "service" - because the translation ist quite bad and sound like a official writing from you local goverment.
If it is done by TH-cam: Any idea how switch it off, and how "they - TH-cam" decide witch channel (single video) is translated in the title (To be claer: i don't speak about the translation you can aktive switch on inside some video videos itself) ?
yes same problem here in italy, I can't switch audio in english and the traslation is orrible ..
@@quirinodina you can, in the audio tracks select "English (United States), original" but it's not the default
Same here from Germany. I've seen machine-translated video titles before, but never on this channel. At least the audio track defaulted to english for me, those ai translated audio tracks are so annoying.
is it safe to just change the mode while still connected to the charged caps? What if some modes like diode check or smth like that are between voltage and resistance mode and you cycle through them while 240V on probes. Couldn't this destroy your multimeter?
No. All modes should be protected just as well.
Yeah, not gonna happen in my workshop. Made my own decade box with 100-watt resistors (0.1 ohm to 100K) so I just jumper-over to the DMM.
How big is that
@@CamelCasee Two 19-inch rack panels (1.75" tall). Fits under the workbench. I use banana jacks (66 total) instead of switches for the resistors. All are bolted to the aluminum case and there's a fan.
My simple Elro M970 has 200 as the lowest value for Ohm. Is that low enough?
What if we have a bunch of cheap Voltcraft multimeters at work, how do I check if they won't die and get me reprimanded?
Just put your tongue over the terminals - quick discharge that way. Might tingle a bit.
Saving flat head screwdrivers from spot welds.
isn't it bad for the rotary switch contacts?
It's not that high a voltage or current. Maybe if you did it a thousand times it could become a problem.
thanks dave
I check the voltage across capacitor and it discharges slowly 😅
I blew the two clamping transistors in my $80 Chinese 3-in-1 scopemeter by accidentally probing 240V mains in ohms mode. There is a PTC, but I might have stayed on the mains too long. The clamping transistors were too weak.
I think I'll stick to the Big Clive method... Screwdriver, then touch it with your finger.
Seems more elegant solution than using screwdriver to discharge a cap😅
Con pista de audio en Español! bien!
One issue, the MTTF of PTCs is rather low so this will reduce life expectancy.
I just short that with a 15 ohm 50W resistor.
Not sure if I wanna try this on my ZT301 made by Zotek Tools
And if your name is Mehdi Sadaghdar, put the red lead into the 20A hole !!!
No discharge resistors to increase efficiency and lower cost. I'm surprised they don't just detect power loss than suck the caps dry, although that would cause surge when plugging it back in? If they're DC, if they're AC plugging in charged AC caps out of phase can be even worse.
Features you're missing with your budget multimeter.
A take a wet rag, paper tissue, or Q tip and put it across terminals
I always use the LoZ function to discharge capacitors 😊 + I use it to trip the RCD breakers when I want to take out the power from a line in a modern building just by touching with the probes the live and ground connections with the meter in LoZ mode 😁 in order to avoid a trip to the electric panel 😊
My 121GW doesn't do anything in Low-Z mode, it just shows 0v. Is this a known issue?
You need a certain minimum voltage
Please remove translation, looks like the video has been done from IA and is unwatchable !
Yes. It is super crappy.
Can this be done with my Fluke 115?
Yes
meh, i dont know... the selector contakts are not desingt for this high Amp peaks, i think ... i use a wire brush ^^ or better, a tittle 230 V bulb, they can handle capasitors with 500 V
Greetings from Germany. This new auto voice over feature is really horrible, you should turn that off, Dave
Microwave capacitor?
I bet some of the $6.95 temu/banggood multimeters wont like volts on the ohms lol
i can smell burning from here
Решил проверить на своём Richmeters. Сунул щупы и раздался хлопок. Сейчас стою у каких-то ворот. Не знаю как я здесь оказался... Здесь похоже какое-то костюмированное шоу. Все в белых костюмах с крыльями. Мне разрешили дописать комментарий а потом заберут телефон... Видимо видеосъемка запрещена здесь...
My entire life I was scared of doing that 🤣
Kids, stick with the old school method called "screwdriver"
Awesome tip! Thanks
this video need to be entitled " how to kill your multimeter".
EMP protection ??
I just use a screw driver.
Can’t you just plug the red lead into the amps socket and stab away?
That only works if you replace the fuse in the multimeter with aluminum foil.
Sure. Expensive though.
I once tried to measure my car battery with a cheap multimeter in the 10A range. The shunt resistor desoldered itself at one end and jumped up from its hole in the PCB. I soldered it back and the meter has been working fine ever since. I should replace the "unfused" label on the jack with "resettable fuse".
I'm not going to watch the video because everyone knows a crescent wrench is the best tool for discharging caps.
I've been doing this for years, (On the Ohms scale).... If I could double thumbs up this video I would...
Nice
Death speedrun any%
Just stick a screwdriver you don't care about across the terminals.
This google censorship has gotten to far ... only mentioned that everything on my multimeter cries c***a and bam ... the comment went away🙄
it just asked me if I wanted the post a reply with the word pussies in it.