I changed my bars out for renthal the other day. Used the exact method del shows in this video, but I put a small piece of bicycle inner tube between the switch gears. They will not move! Just left around .5mm of the plastic lug to grip the rubber. Just a tip for anyone who ends up here. DO NOT DRILL! RENTHAL DOES NOT RECOMMEND!
That works initially, and so does masking tape, duck tape all kinds of tape.. but the glue melts in hot weather an they can get smiley and move about... the foil stays put...thanks for watching.. Del.
Never before have i head of a rider crashing because his throttle grip moved half an inch..(indeed never have i had one move in my life, and ive run Renthals for 20 years).but it looks like you are convinced of your angle, so you do what works for you brother..
Thanks Lou you are very kind...its great to be able to use TH-cam to get the message out to the new generation of bikers.....i love Renthals, and would fit them an any bike i had... take care.. Del.
Just fitted with my dad, my new handle bars because the other ones were bent. Thanks to you i now know how to change and fix handle bars, you are a legend
I bought my first bike on Saturday, (planned on it being a learner bike as well as a project bike) I found this video the night before because I knew I wanted to change the bars straight away. My dad and I went out to look at this old 1982 Kawasaki KZ440 LTD, as soon as I got it home I started right away, and thanks to you it was brilliant! I have since watch many of your videos and they have helped me accomplish so much that I didn't think I'd get to do to the bike until over the winter. I just wanted to say thanks so much! Jo
Jocelyn Hill Hi Jo, how cool to hear from you, and congratulations on your first bike, welcome to the biking family! I remember the 440 LTD, a really cool bike and you'll have lots of fun with it... glad the videos can help you, that's why we load them up, and always please feel free to drop us a line any time you need a tip or a trick or can't get over something... thanks for watching the videos, all the best, Del & Penny!
From a rider in northern Colorado, thanks for making these videos. Can’t tell you how much they helped in wrenching on my bike. Having a Heineken in your name
Ben, you are most welcome sir, and thanks for your kind comments, we all pick up tips along the way, find ourselves stuck and work it out, and after 30 years creakin' about on bikes i guess you rack up a fare few tips to pass on..knowledge is free, and information belongs to no one, so its just normal to share it with my fellow bikers, and its real refreshing to find a young bloke like you into a proper bike, keep doing your own thing mate, stay away from top boxes and keep it real, cheers, Del.
Hey Delboy! touched based the other day to say I just found your channel, have been glued to screen ever since, watched all streetfighter stuff to date, amazing btw, and now starting the bandit. Have just got myself a tidy 2000 Fazer 600 and am planning loads of things for her so really appreciate all videos and advice, and seriously no jobs is too simple or silly to record, helps us complete amateurs a lot, for the more experienced guys they can just fast forward!! thanks again. Steven
Exactly that Steven, we're here for you ! There are plenty of videos out there to sharpen the experts, but when something is absolutely new to you, it can be the hardest thing just to get your head round it... not to mention, having the courage to get stuck in to your pride and joy without the fear of buggering it up... keep in touch my ol' mate, and always drop a line if you need a tip, thanks for watching, all the best, Del
Excellent vid mate, just bought myself a 1200 bandit so the Mrs can come with me on the days the lads aren't out!! (she aint riding pillion on my R1) and i was considering putting on renthals to help with ride comfort whilst she is screaming and clinging to me and now i've seen this i will get some...cheers mate.
oh sweet!! money problem solved haha... i nearly got the garage to fit this bar for me after being told i have to use tipex and drill holes... but after watching this i'm gonna do it myself and you make look so easy... thanks! :)
I know this video is super duper old, but I just skimmed through this video to get the main points and all I can say is thank you mate. I crashed the other day and bent my handlebars on my Lexmoto Adrenaline 125cc and I’ve just replaced them with some gold Renthal bars using your tips. The whole process took about 2 hours or so because I wanted to get everything perfect and I did a lot of other stuff while I was at the front end of the bike (may as well when you’re already there). Brilliant tutorial mate. That screwdriver and WD40 really did the trick with getting the left grip off without needing to break it and buy a new one. Old one fitted right back on just waiting for the WD40 to evaporate so it sticks back down to the new bars. Earned a sub and a like mate. Bravo.
Thanks Del this and your other vids have given me the confidence to do a lot of work to my GSR 750 which now have a set of Renthal's on which puts a big smile on my face.
The air compressor trick is a good one, and only works on those soft gel grips because they stretch more..but regular factory grips can just rip open, they must be cheaper rubber...good tip on the cable stretch, i guess you can mention this that and the other, but in the flow of making a video you can forget to cover every little point, some things you have to leave to peoples common sence.. thanks for your comments, much appreciated matey.. take care. Del.
Hey Delboy, you saved $120.00 Canadian currency. Thank you sir, it is always a pleasure watching your channel. Excellent tips, tricks and recommendations!
Oh wow, that's awesome, there is nothing so satisfying as saving money... am glad we could help, take care and ride safe brother and of course, stay in touch !
Great help once again , iam looking myself for a Bandit 600 or 1200, within the next 10 months i hope . I haven't ridden for about 10 years and carnt wait to bet back to it . keep up the good work and thanks again
Run the bike till it's burning hot full working temperature, cut the fuel off and let the carbs run dry until the engine coughs and stops, then there is nothing in the fuel system to go 'gunky', but actually fill the tank to the brim with cheap petrol for storage to stop condensation water rusting the inside, then dump it and fill with fresh in the spring...and change the oil before you are going to use it, not before you lay it up as that will go stale too! PS lift it off the ground too! Del
Hi John....no, they just want you to buy their over priced renthal bar caps.... you can fit the OEM bar weights, in fact they help reduce the vibes you get with Renthals.....the steel OEM bars are bigger ID than the Renthals so you need to use some Rawl plugs to fit them.. i made a video so ill send you a link in PM... good luck, Del.
Well done, mate, there is no learning without exploration and everything we do we learn a new trick, so don't worry about winging it, it's how I learned half the things I know LOL! ... just work on the mantra "how hard can it be?" ! Take care, Del
Hi mate, believe it or not, they are the standard mirrors, but with the bar removed between the mirror & the mounting bos, it was a rubbish idea anyway, as all I could see was my elbow LOL! ... eventually went for a bar end mirror instead ... good luck, Del
Hi Rudi....huge myth in that old tale of it "quickening the steering".....what it actually does, is destabilize the bike in long curves, and makes it twitchy and nervous in bends....you dont have the rest of the required kit to make it handle like an R6....A bandit is a dollop, made to cart you from a to b with no fuss....its not a track bike and lifting the fork tubes will just phuque up the nice calm bike that it is...by all means try it mate, you can soon return it to factory after all..!
comfort is an illusion in the sportster world. you can only think and believe you're comfy. sometimes but just sometimes i just think of getting a cbf1000 for my daily commute to work and home. good clutch, good brakes, good suspension, good seat , good engine, good service and etc. but than i think i'm not used to having everything good in my life. i simply like living uneasy. ah btw; any bike i ride feels like mine in less than 2.3 secs. then some stick some don't. glad it worked for you
Hi buddy, and thanks for your kind comments, yeah Bandits are real popular here, and pretty much the most universal bike on the road... With the bars, Yes, Renthals are universal and will fit any bike as long as the cables and switch wiring will reach.. the large high rise ones are maybe too wide for the Bandit, but the Roadbike medium and low fit just fine... lets see a video once you have them fitted aye.. ride fast and dont let the feds catch up...Del.
When re-installing handlebar grips, I mix a little wallpaper paste and smear it inside the grip. It slips on very, very easily and dries overnight. Not difficult to break the seal with the method you used. Add a little water spray and it slips off again easily and, before anyone asks, I've never had a problem when it rains!
I just bought cheap aluminium motocross handlebars for my hornet. I did cut them shorter 1cm from both end. And I bought 3cm riser. Also I did drill the 5,5mm holes to the bars. They are pretty wide but works great. Better than originals for sure for my riding style.
First bike? Congratulations buddy, glad the video helped you, check us out any time you need a tip or trick, we've usually covered most things at some time or another... all in the Playlists!
Your catch phrase has inspired me to spend less on bike bits when I could just fix my own. Why buy a new downpipe when I can just sand, key and repaint the original one? A new one is £80. "And that's a lot of money." ;) I'm picking up my first big bike on Sunday, a Bandit 600. Got to ride it 160 miles down from Anglesey... Baptism by fire. Wish me luck! Cheers, Stu.
Hi Chris.....i added the brace mainly for looks and effect...it does stiffen up the bars, they tend to flex a bit as they are only alloy...but not enough to be an issue...its just that with a brace they are rock solid...why not just poke the bars on and then see if you find them a bit bendy...its no more then about 3mm movement at the bar ends, so see how you feel... top notch on the Bandit again buddy....enjoy every minute... Del
Just fit a top yoke conversion which provides the clamps needed to hold the bars, they are available on the market and about the same price as the bars! Alternatively, drill the existing top yoke and use some second hand Bandit bar clamps.
Del i want to thank you for this great video-tutorial. i changed my bar yesterday and everything went well thanks to your video. thank you very much, keep up! ride safe.
Thanks mate, you are very kind - good luck with changing your bars, Rizoma are a great product and the GSR750 is a great bike - they should set it off a treat! Hope it goes well, cheers, mate, Del
This is great content man.Thank you.I just bought my first bike which is a bandit 650s and i was afraid of doing anything on my own but i found your videos and it all seems not-so-scary to do now.
Great video I just did a bar swap on my bandit and the trick with filing down the location tabs on the bar switches worked PERFECTLY the switches do not move at all Thanks.
Another possible way to fit the switchgear which I did was to drill the holes but only around 1-2 mm deep and file the pins off leaving 2mm so it locates without drilling the holes right through and weakening the bar, cheers del
Ayup Robbie..splendid bike mate, and splendid route to take with it.. its not hard to swap the top yoke itself, just strip the bars of all fittings, remove the clipons, and then the yoke can be removed..slip the new yoke and bars on...but the main issue will be checking if the cables and wiring will reach the Renthals..you may just have to re-route a few things to get them all to fit..if it wont work, you could just fit some high lift clip-ons..!!see how you go and PM me if you get stuck ok, Del
ok mate, if you still want to drill them, to mark the hole for drilling....wrap two layers of masking tape round the bar, then where you want the switch block....just PRESS the lower half against the tape and it marks the tape...thats where you drill..!
Dulux Doggy Thanks Dulux, and good call not to drill them...the factory steel bars are a different metalergic makeup to the alloy bars, the metal is flexible and can bend, the hole really makes no difference to its integrity....but the Renthal bars are very advanced tempered alloy, and they do flex...but they DO NOT BEND....they are more likely to fracture....so drilling a hole in them just stands to be the most stupid thing you could possibly do....no?.
its pretty simple then mate, the clocks both mount ot the bars, (move them about and you'll see), then just unbolt the fairng and support frame, you'll have to make a tidy job of relocating the wiring back under that tank...then just select a set of lights and brackets form the market and fit them on in place...its not hard, and jusrt a matter of taking your time and making a tidy install of it....you will laso need to moutn the front indicators on a new bracket too..check out "Just Bandits".!
Hi Nathan, Thats great advice, the Renthal bars have a rough finish and don;t seem to ever move.. but for chrome bars thats dead right.. even with the cross hatching on the bars... but if they still move after that.. you can also put a sliver of aluminum foil in between the bar and the clamp.. that really helps grab hold of it. works specially well with Ape hangers..lol!
Well done Jason, get stuck in mate, its not hard, just take your time and you'll be fine....if you get stuck, drop me a line and ill see if i can help....good luck.. Del.
Cool vid Delboy - I didn't need the instruction but enjoyed the vid for the sense of alacrity (eager willingness) you have to assist fellow bikers. Well done.
@bruvamonk Exactly Bruv... doing it yerself is the right way, it means you have better intimate knowledge and status awareness of yotu bike and its condition....you cen see things coming up and prepare for them financially, the more you tackal the more you learn... well done buddy, and thanks for your kind comments...lets have a walk round vid once its done aye.. cheers, Del.
@2wheelsteve Ha ha love it, we learn by our mistakes aye... best under clamp trick is to slip some tin foil under them, then screw down onto it, it grips the clamps tight and keeps the water out...its more a trick for the older bikes with steel bars and cast alloy clamps..these days they are all plastic with pins in...but if the pin snaps off, it still works to slip a layer of foil under it as a soft packer... good to hear from you mate.. cheers. Del.
Hi mate, check that the actual choke slide assembly on the carb frame is pushed right home to its stop, (left hanbd side below the CV cap) and that the cable isnt trapped in some way....it can often be helpful to take the left hand bar furniture off and re-assemble it again from scratch....hope that helps you mate.. good luck, Del.
@Harp3rOn Thanks buddy.... the mirrors are the OE ones, just with the shafts removed and the ends screwed into each other..(you need to make a short 1" grub screw as you end up with 'female to female' threads)..... but i wouldn't bother mate, they are totally useless, all you can see is your arms.. that's why i didn't bother showing the video of making them.. check out the cheap bar Mirror video later on.. ten times better, looks cool, and only £15.. cheers. Del.
Hi Charlie....well done on getting your hands dirty mate, its way more fun the Schelling out to the dealer for repairs.... with the bars, i used the "Road bike LOW" and they're about the same..if you went to the Medium, im sure they will fit with no issues, im not sure if the 'high' would work very well, you could be in for a heavy bill for the brake hoses etc...if you go for medium, and fit your factory bar weights as my other video, you'll reduce the vibes and be fine..good luck chap..Del
Hi mate... well done you, its great to get it done yourself aye...and im glad the video helped you out, thats what its there for, take care and thanks for watching mate.... cheers, Del.
This is why I love watching your videos..you assume nothing. You demonstrate in a very comprehensive and entertaining way. I think this is what is missing for the most part from you tube, the actual "how to." I hate to see the sporty go but quite frankly, you could be working on a radio flyer and I would watch. I think you should start manufacturing and selling bikes! I want to be the first one in the states to own a 1 off Delboy! LOL. Hope it all works out for you. Keep up the great work.
Renthals fitted no fuss , can't believe how much difference they make ! Cheers del I would have spent 60 quid at the local dealer for summat that took half an hour , I owe you a drink !
Hi Tom... the bars weigh a full Kilo, and are 28 inches wide...they have the rubber bushes in the end and the nuts are rattling about inside them, i had no plan tto use them so just took the screws out... if they are of use they're yours, just let me know how you want to go ahead mate..?
I don't have a link, mate, but out of all the different models their model name is 'Renthal Road Bike Low' ... order these and they will be exactly the same... hope that helps, mate, Del
Delboy - your instructional videos are just the best! Watched this a few times before attempting to fit the same Renthal Sportbike Ultra Low bars in this video to my K4 Bandit 600s. I'm new to biking (at 49!) having passed my test 6 months ago and been riding since then, and I have very little mechanical experience. Your vids make things look so straightforward and gave my confidence to do it - so I did last night - no probs - and the switch blocks fit real tight without the holes or tin foil. Gonna go try it out this morning and see what the difference is. Given it's an 11 yr old bike and in mint condition (only had 3200 miles on when I got it) I'm looking to do most of the servicing myself. I had a full dealer service, carb clean, new tyres, etc when I bought it just to get it checked out - it had obviously had a lot of idle time in 11 years at that mileage, but now I'm working up to the next service items. I did the font brakes and chain (by following your videos) but now I'm thinking of doing the valve clearances which are due in a couple of thousand miles. I've read the Haynes and watched numerous vids on TH-cam and it looks easy enough, but I just wondered if you planned to do a video on this with your Bandit any time soon or whether you had any hints/tips/approach 'cos I'm sure they would be a great help. Cheers!!!
Stephen Brewell Hi Stephen... its good to hear that you are getting stuck in with your own work....sadly i cant help with the valve clearances now, i sold the bandit a few months ago, but it truly is a really easy job and as long as you take your time and work methodically, you'll make a good job of it....the only little tricky bit is to get the lock nut done up enough and not close the tappet in on itself...so check the clearance again once you've locked it off to make sure you still have the right gap.... good luck with it buddy. and thanks for watching.. all the best.. Del.
Moonfleet41 Thanks Del. I read it was better to set them at the widest of the tolerance rather than mid (what the dealer would do) or the tightest, as they tend to move tighter rather than looser. Would you agree?
Hi mate, provided you have got the top half of the clamp bolted down tight with equal gaps front & rear, it should grip the bar, but if not, then try wrapping a layer of aluminum foil round the bar where it goes into the clamp, then clamp down on to it tight ...this will act as a gasket and fill out any spaces where the clamp isn't touching the bar and give you an all round grip, which should stop it, also being soft, the foil tends to grip like on the road, where a metal rim wouldn't - Del
Hi Cloggie, no it wont effect the bike's handling, just maybe your comfort, but if you have no choice than its academic...just make sure you fit all the switch blocks and grips first...move them in as far as they will go to see how much you can afford to cut off, cut too much and your could make them unusable...the outer bends will dictate how much you can spare...good luck with is..
Hi mate, considering they are nothing more than a method of holding on to the front end, they, in themselves, have no affect on handling whatsoever any more than does the seat or the speedo LOL!..but for any bloke over the height over about 5'10" the Bandit bars are too close making the ride position a bit cramped, I find the 'Renthal Road Bike Low' spec bars straighten my arms out, give a slider wider stance & allow my back to sit straight rather than hunched, they are more about comfort, Del
Hi mate I don't mean to hijack someone else's question but just sitting on the bandit I bought in ride position feels very uncomfortable. I'm actually about 5'10" myself and don't know if the low renthal bars might be a bit uncomfortable for me too with being tall. Do you have any suggestions? Rob
Whoops slips what i was gonna say is my gs has thoughs crap light bar end fittings at moment which makes it feel wierd at front end so will be putting in proper WEIGHTS with the raw plug method.love all your vids by the way as i am now trying to do all my own work on bike from now on as that gives me great satisfaction in being able to do something my self and then the money i saved on paying shop can be spent on something else
@@cattleNhay Hi buddy, sadly not, I never got round to doing the carbs and valve clearances on my Bandit before I sold it, but good news, it's a really easy job (the valves that is) cos they are lock nut and adjuster, rather than shims... so with a spanner and small screwdriver you can set the clearances exact! Carb balancing is a bit of a dark art, and unless you've done it yourself before, then it is good one to take to a tuning shop to get them to maximise your motor's output and it's a sound investment, as the bike will run way better than it does normally!
Hi there, they are indeed perfect for a Bandit - don't know the exact width, but the Renthal model name is 'Road Bike Low' - hope that helps, Cheers Del
I think you'll find it's because the FJ comes with a cast top yoke for clip ons, so you have to convert the yoke to take proper handlebars, all you needed to do was take the top yoke off, drill two holes in and bolt some standard Bandit bar clamps through... probably could have got them from a breaker, then the bars at standard cost... at least you got it sorted, Del
Hey hi. Unfortunatly on my model (2nd generation of bandit 600) the clock is mount on a big metal bracket that also support the front fairing. The horn is also hidding there and removing everything to put a new headlight is a hell of a lot fun. I will have to let it go and keep it with all the fairing! Thanks a lot anyway for your help.
Nice one mate, good to hear it... yeah, I've never advocated drilling alloy bars, they are tempered and don't share the same characteristics as steel bars... glad you got it done buddy!
Great video, very helpful! Nice bike too! I'll be installing Renthal medium black on my 2006 Honda 919 (or Hornet in the UK). I felt the opposite way about the locating nubs and had planned on drilling the bars, but I think you have convinced me otherwise.
thank you again what a great video i just swapped my bars over this morning thanks to you, and i do not know one end of a spanner from the other lol but thanks to you i can now swap bars over and do oil changes , some of us are not mechanics but your videos help so much, i just took my wheels of my fzr 1000 exup as they need to be painted but i am to scared to put them back on in case i miss something so i got to wait till a mate has time to do it for me, but one day as my confidence grows sure i will be able to do it myself thank you delboy for your time and help ....
Hi David.. thats exactly tyhe right way to approach it, just do what you feel confident of, and take help where its offered.. i saw the FZR Fighter on your channel, thats a proper ass kickin bike mate, awesome... have fun and enjoy the coming spring.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 yea thats my old fzr 1000 i had it hydro dipped and tunned up took me 6 months to get done, then went out on it just to much wind and i did not enjoy the ride ended up selling that and my cbr1000f and getting a hayabusa 03 like yours best bike ever had then i got hit by a car the hayabusa is a write off and still had my old fzr 1000 exup in garage so now doing that up
@@davidmillard2739 My word, what a story mate.. i hope you weren't hurt in the collision.. too many McGoo's out there these days aye. and Hayabusa?.. watch this space..!
Cheers Del! You're fantastic recommended you to many of my friends (Teen bikers who think they know it all) You have really helped me do some of the basic maintenance work on my 650 bandit even if it's just watching someone else do a job first before I do as a confidence boost can't say mines ratted out but I love the look and enjoy following you're progress with damage! anyway thanks for the tips Delboy and keep the good work up! Ben
The foil has always worked fine for me and my right block doesnt move.. if you need to pin it, dont waste money buying a new block, just screw in a tiny self tapper where the nub used to be, and drill your hole in the bar...
I've never had them move as I never file the pins totally flat, just leave yourself a tiny nub about 1/2mm thick to bear against the bar and if you need to stop them moving just wrap a turn of tin foil round the bar under the switch block and they'll be fine, I just don't feel happy drilling a hole in handle bars that are not designed to have holes... hope that helps, Cheers Del
Thanks for another great Vid, just ordered a set of ultra lows for my 2003 fazer, was going to put it to a shop to have done, but will do it myself on Saturday. Thanks again, keep up the great work :)
Hi mate, in a following video I did exactly that using some steel raw plugs from the DIY centre costing just a few £'s... I think the video was called 'Bar End Weight Ghetto Fix' - cheap and works every time!
(2008 Suzuki GSF1250s) Excellent video, thank you! Side note: I ordered the Renthal 7/8 street very low profile and the diameter is not the same as the original one which means that I was unable to re-use the original bar ends. If you like me are getting with a 7/8 Renthal then you will need 14mm bar ends (Renthal offer them for $35).
I think you mean the internal bore of the tubing is smaller, and yes, thats right, you cant use the factory bar ends as the came out of the bar...and yes, i know, Renthal do make a small end cap that goes in place of the bar weight, BUT, its light weight alloy and doesn't do the job of dampening the vibration...... SO.... Use the original factory end weights and fit them the way i fitted mine in this video i made a little while after fitting the bars.. here's a link;- Delboy's Garage, Renthal Bars, Bar End Weights Ghetto fix. Hope that helps.. Del.
Pat Stimi Hi Pat, i dont remember where that came from specifically mate, but they are readily available from accessory suppliers like M&P, i've had it for years and i think it was about a tenner..
Hi Tom,good to hear from you again,mate,I know what you mean, the pukka 'motorcross' bars are way too wide & flat,I've used "Renthal Road Bike Low",these are almost the same as the OE bars just a tiny bit wider (maybe 1") & a little less 'pull back',perfect for me at 5'11" & more importantly they are very different to the motorcross bars. I do have my standard bars & you are welcome to have them but the postage would be ridiculous because they are pretty heavy..let me know what you wanna do..Del
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I changed my bars out for renthal the other day. Used the exact method del shows in this video, but I put a small piece of bicycle inner tube between the switch gears.
They will not move!
Just left around .5mm of the plastic lug to grip the rubber.
Just a tip for anyone who ends up here.
DO NOT DRILL! RENTHAL DOES NOT RECOMMEND!
That works initially, and so does masking tape, duck tape all kinds of tape.. but the glue melts in hot weather an they can get smiley and move about... the foil stays put...thanks for watching.. Del.
Never before have i head of a rider crashing because his throttle grip moved half an inch..(indeed never have i had one move in my life, and ive run Renthals for 20 years).but it looks like you are convinced of your angle, so you do what works for you brother..
Cor 10yrs ago. I changed my bars yesterday and your video helped alot. Thank you Delboy.
Great to hear!
Thanks Lou you are very kind...its great to be able to use TH-cam to get the message out to the new generation of bikers.....i love Renthals, and would fit them an any bike i had... take care.. Del.
Just fitted with my dad, my new handle bars because the other ones were bent. Thanks to you i now know how to change and fix handle bars, you are a legend
Hi Delboy, fitted some renthal bars to my 97 Bandit yesterday, using your video as a guide, it helped massively.
Cheers.
I bought my first bike on Saturday, (planned on it being a learner bike as well as a project bike) I found this video the night before because I knew I wanted to change the bars straight away.
My dad and I went out to look at this old 1982 Kawasaki KZ440 LTD, as soon as I got it home I started right away, and thanks to you it was brilliant! I have since watch many of your videos and they have helped me accomplish so much that I didn't think I'd get to do to the bike until over the winter.
I just wanted to say thanks so much!
Jo
Jocelyn Hill Hi Jo, how cool to hear from you, and congratulations on your first bike, welcome to the biking family! I remember the 440 LTD, a really cool bike and you'll have lots of fun with it... glad the videos can help you, that's why we load them up, and always please feel free to drop us a line any time you need a tip or a trick or can't get over something... thanks for watching the videos, all the best, Del & Penny!
From a rider in northern Colorado, thanks for making these videos. Can’t tell you how much they helped in wrenching on my bike. Having a Heineken in your name
Thank you Ralph, im really glad the videos have helped you out, that makes it all the more worth the effort and time to load them up..
Ben, you are most welcome sir, and thanks for your kind comments, we all pick up tips along the way, find ourselves stuck and work it out, and after 30 years creakin' about on bikes i guess you rack up a fare few tips to pass on..knowledge is free, and information belongs to no one, so its just normal to share it with my fellow bikers, and its real refreshing to find a young bloke like you into a proper bike, keep doing your own thing mate, stay away from top boxes and keep it real, cheers, Del.
Over 10 years old and video still helped me change over my bars , great video
Thats great, thanks for the visit Kyle. Glad it helped!
Hey Delboy! touched based the other day to say I just found your channel, have been glued to screen ever since, watched all streetfighter stuff to date, amazing btw, and now starting the bandit. Have just got myself a tidy 2000 Fazer 600 and am planning loads of things for her so really appreciate all videos and advice, and seriously no jobs is too simple or silly to record, helps us complete amateurs a lot, for the more experienced guys they can just fast forward!! thanks again. Steven
Exactly that Steven, we're here for you ! There are plenty of videos out there to sharpen the experts, but when something is absolutely new to you, it can be the hardest thing just to get your head round it... not to mention, having the courage to get stuck in to your pride and joy without the fear of buggering it up... keep in touch my ol' mate, and always drop a line if you need a tip, thanks for watching, all the best, Del
Thanks Del will do!
Excellent vid mate, just bought myself a 1200 bandit so the Mrs can come with me on the days the lads aren't out!! (she aint riding pillion on my R1) and i was considering putting on renthals to help with ride comfort whilst she is screaming and clinging to me and now i've seen this i will get some...cheers mate.
oh sweet!! money problem solved haha... i nearly got the garage to fit this bar for me after being told i have to use tipex and drill holes... but after watching this i'm gonna do it myself and you make look so easy... thanks! :)
Well made sir. Well made. Very informative video. You have allayed my concerns about the "drilling holes" part. Thank you for sharing.
I know this video is super duper old, but I just skimmed through this video to get the main points and all I can say is thank you mate. I crashed the other day and bent my handlebars on my Lexmoto Adrenaline 125cc and I’ve just replaced them with some gold Renthal bars using your tips. The whole process took about 2 hours or so because I wanted to get everything perfect and I did a lot of other stuff while I was at the front end of the bike (may as well when you’re already there). Brilliant tutorial mate. That screwdriver and WD40 really did the trick with getting the left grip off without needing to break it and buy a new one. Old one fitted right back on just waiting for the WD40 to evaporate so it sticks back down to the new bars.
Earned a sub and a like mate. Bravo.
Thanks Jack, glad it helped you mate, I hope you weren't hurt when you crashed, and you've got it all back on the road nice and safe.
Thanks Del this and your other vids have given me the confidence to do a lot of work to my GSR 750 which now have a set of Renthal's on which puts a big smile on my face.
The air compressor trick is a good one, and only works on those soft gel grips because they stretch more..but regular factory grips can just rip open, they must be cheaper rubber...good tip on the cable stretch, i guess you can mention this that and the other, but in the flow of making a video you can forget to cover every little point, some things you have to leave to peoples common sence.. thanks for your comments, much appreciated matey.. take care. Del.
Hey Delboy, you saved $120.00 Canadian currency. Thank you sir, it is always a pleasure watching your channel. Excellent tips, tricks and recommendations!
Oh wow, that's awesome, there is nothing so satisfying as saving money... am glad we could help, take care and ride safe brother and of course, stay in touch !
Great help once again , iam looking myself for a Bandit 600 or 1200, within the next 10 months i hope . I haven't ridden for about 10 years and carnt wait to bet back to it . keep up the good work and thanks again
Ha ha, thanks Shane, biking is a Brotherhood...and who wouldn't help his brother... thanks buddy, you are very kind.. Del.
Run the bike till it's burning hot full working temperature, cut the fuel off and let the carbs run dry until the engine coughs and stops, then there is nothing in the fuel system to go 'gunky', but actually fill the tank to the brim with cheap petrol for storage to stop condensation water rusting the inside, then dump it and fill with fresh in the spring...and change the oil before you are going to use it, not before you lay it up as that will go stale too! PS lift it off the ground too! Del
One of the best tutorials I've seen on TH-cam! Cheers from Canada!
Hi John....no, they just want you to buy their over priced renthal bar caps.... you can fit the OEM bar weights, in fact they help reduce the vibes you get with Renthals.....the steel OEM bars are bigger ID than the Renthals so you need to use some Rawl plugs to fit them.. i made a video so ill send you a link in PM... good luck, Del.
Well done, mate, there is no learning without exploration and everything we do we learn a new trick, so don't worry about winging it, it's how I learned half the things I know LOL! ... just work on the mantra "how hard can it be?" ! Take care, Del
Hi mate, believe it or not, they are the standard mirrors, but with the bar removed between the mirror & the mounting bos, it was a rubbish idea anyway, as all I could see was my elbow LOL! ... eventually went for a bar end mirror instead ... good luck, Del
Hi Rudi....huge myth in that old tale of it "quickening the steering".....what it actually does, is destabilize the bike in long curves, and makes it twitchy and nervous in bends....you dont have the rest of the required kit to make it handle like an R6....A bandit is a dollop, made to cart you from a to b with no fuss....its not a track bike and lifting the fork tubes will just phuque up the nice calm bike that it is...by all means try it mate, you can soon return it to factory after all..!
comfort is an illusion in the sportster world. you can only think and believe you're comfy.
sometimes but just sometimes i just think of getting a cbf1000 for my daily commute to work and home. good clutch, good brakes, good suspension, good seat , good engine, good service and etc.
but than i think i'm not used to having everything good in my life.
i simply like living uneasy.
ah btw; any bike i ride feels like mine in less than 2.3 secs. then some stick some don't.
glad it worked for you
Thanks Tom....old video now, but still the best bars in the world...!!!
Why thank you kindly sir, you are most generous... im glad you liked it..and hope it can help you... cheers, Del.
Hi buddy, and thanks for your kind comments, yeah Bandits are real popular here, and pretty much the most universal bike on the road... With the bars, Yes, Renthals are universal and will fit any bike as long as the cables and switch wiring will reach.. the large high rise ones are maybe too wide for the Bandit, but the Roadbike medium and low fit just fine... lets see a video once you have them fitted aye.. ride fast and dont let the feds catch up...Del.
When re-installing handlebar grips, I mix a little wallpaper paste and smear it inside the grip. It slips on very, very easily and dries overnight. Not difficult to break the seal with the method you used. Add a little water spray and it slips off again easily and, before anyone asks, I've never had a problem when it rains!
Delboy... One of the coolest guys on the planet!
Good choice...they'll make it a lot more comfortable...cheers, Del.
I just bought cheap aluminium motocross handlebars for my hornet. I did cut them shorter 1cm from both end. And I bought 3cm riser. Also I did drill the 5,5mm holes to the bars. They are pretty wide but works great. Better than originals for sure for my riding style.
The best bike DIY videos on TH-cam. Entertaining and useful.
Cheers mate, glad they help! Del
I have the exact set of renthals showing up any day now for my Honda CB919, this video will be my step by step guide. thanks !
+Stevie Bon Thanks Stevie, glad we could help you buddy... good luck with it.. Del.
Awsome...thanks for taking the time to do this. Just fitted ultra lows to my bandit today and I was glad of a few tips.
Rob Gennard Cheers Rob, glad the video could help you mate...
This was super helpful…I’m on my first bike and really want to change the bar but was intimidated until I watched your video. Thanks a lot !!
First bike? Congratulations buddy, glad the video helped you, check us out any time you need a tip or trick, we've usually covered most things at some time or another... all in the Playlists!
Your catch phrase has inspired me to spend less on bike bits when I could just fix my own. Why buy a new downpipe when I can just sand, key and repaint the original one? A new one is £80.
"And that's a lot of money." ;)
I'm picking up my first big bike on Sunday, a Bandit 600. Got to ride it 160 miles down from Anglesey... Baptism by fire. Wish me luck!
Cheers, Stu.
Hi Chris.....i added the brace mainly for looks and effect...it does stiffen up the bars, they tend to flex a bit as they are only alloy...but not enough to be an issue...its just that with a brace they are rock solid...why not just poke the bars on and then see if you find them a bit bendy...its no more then about 3mm movement at the bar ends, so see how you feel... top notch on the Bandit again buddy....enjoy every minute... Del
Just fit a top yoke conversion which provides the clamps needed to hold the bars, they are available on the market and about the same price as the bars! Alternatively, drill the existing top yoke and use some second hand Bandit bar clamps.
Another excellent tutorial. I always thought this would be a super complicated job. Clearly not! Thanks Del.
Thanks John, its simple enough, just a process like any other.. Good luck with yours.. Del.
Del i want to thank you for this great video-tutorial. i changed my bar yesterday and everything went well thanks to your video.
thank you very much, keep up! ride safe.
Thanks mate, you are very kind - good luck with changing your bars, Rizoma are a great product and the GSR750 is a great bike - they should set it off a treat! Hope it goes well, cheers, mate, Del
This is great content man.Thank you.I just bought my first bike which is a bandit 650s and i was afraid of doing anything on my own but i found your videos and it all seems not-so-scary to do now.
Great video I just did a bar swap on my bandit and the trick with filing down the location tabs on the bar switches worked PERFECTLY the switches do not move at all Thanks.
Another possible way to fit the switchgear which I did was to drill the holes but only around 1-2 mm deep and file the pins off leaving 2mm so it locates without drilling the holes right through and weakening the bar, cheers del
Ayup Robbie..splendid bike mate, and splendid route to take with it.. its not hard to swap the top yoke itself, just strip the bars of all fittings, remove the clipons, and then the yoke can be removed..slip the new yoke and bars on...but the main issue will be checking if the cables and wiring will reach the Renthals..you may just have to re-route a few things to get them all to fit..if it wont work, you could just fit some high lift clip-ons..!!see how you go and PM me if you get stuck ok, Del
I find the standard bars are some of the most comfortable I've used in 50 years of riding, I wouldn't change them.
ok mate, if you still want to drill them, to mark the hole for drilling....wrap two layers of masking tape round the bar, then where you want the switch block....just PRESS the lower half against the tape and it marks the tape...thats where you drill..!
excellent demo mate, many thanx,,,gonna do mine shortly, will follow your instructions
Excellent, awesome install. The narration is superb.
very good guide, i have just ordered a set of bars for my mt07, i didnt like the idea of drilling em, thanks for showing me a better way.
Dulux Doggy Thanks Dulux, and good call not to drill them...the factory steel bars are a different metalergic makeup to the alloy bars, the metal is flexible and can bend, the hole really makes no difference to its integrity....but the Renthal bars are very advanced tempered alloy, and they do flex...but they DO NOT BEND....they are more likely to fracture....so drilling a hole in them just stands to be the most stupid thing you could possibly do....no?.
Just watched this video. I thought is was brilliant. Full on top tips and very well produced. Great training video, Thanks you
its pretty simple then mate, the clocks both mount ot the bars, (move them about and you'll see), then just unbolt the fairng and support frame, you'll have to make a tidy job of relocating the wiring back under that tank...then just select a set of lights and brackets form the market and fit them on in place...its not hard, and jusrt a matter of taking your time and making a tidy install of it....you will laso need to moutn the front indicators on a new bracket too..check out "Just Bandits".!
One recommendation: torque the bar clamps to the recommended 23 or 24 NM. I tightened as you said, and it moved as I rode!
Hi Nathan, Thats great advice, the Renthal bars have a rough finish and don;t seem to ever move.. but for chrome bars thats dead right.. even with the cross hatching on the bars... but if they still move after that.. you can also put a sliver of aluminum foil in between the bar and the clamp.. that really helps grab hold of it. works specially well with Ape hangers..lol!
Well done Jason, get stuck in mate, its not hard, just take your time and you'll be fine....if you get stuck, drop me a line and ill see if i can help....good luck.. Del.
Another trick I've seen for the switch blocks is a bit of masking tape, stays on the bar and gives the plastic something to bite into, stays put.
Cool vid Delboy - I didn't need the instruction but enjoyed the vid for the sense of alacrity (eager willingness) you have to assist fellow bikers.
Well done.
Well done Lee, glad to hear it mate, Renthals Rock mate...will have some on the Triumph soon enough...
@bruvamonk Exactly Bruv... doing it yerself is the right way, it means you have better intimate knowledge and status awareness of yotu bike and its condition....you cen see things coming up and prepare for them financially, the more you tackal the more you learn... well done buddy, and thanks for your kind comments...lets have a walk round vid once its done aye.. cheers, Del.
@2wheelsteve Ha ha love it, we learn by our mistakes aye... best under clamp trick is to slip some tin foil under them, then screw down onto it, it grips the clamps tight and keeps the water out...its more a trick for the older bikes with steel bars and cast alloy clamps..these days they are all plastic with pins in...but if the pin snaps off, it still works to slip a layer of foil under it as a soft packer... good to hear from you mate.. cheers. Del.
Hi mate, check that the actual choke slide assembly on the carb frame is pushed right home to its stop, (left hanbd side below the CV cap) and that the cable isnt trapped in some way....it can often be helpful to take the left hand bar furniture off and re-assemble it again from scratch....hope that helps you mate.. good luck, Del.
@Harp3rOn Thanks buddy.... the mirrors are the OE ones, just with the shafts removed and the ends screwed into each other..(you need to make a short 1" grub screw as you end up with 'female to female' threads)..... but i wouldn't bother mate, they are totally useless, all you can see is your arms.. that's why i didn't bother showing the video of making them.. check out the cheap bar Mirror video later on.. ten times better, looks cool, and only £15.. cheers. Del.
Hi Charlie....well done on getting your hands dirty mate, its way more fun the Schelling out to the dealer for repairs.... with the bars, i used the "Road bike LOW" and they're about the same..if you went to the Medium, im sure they will fit with no issues, im not sure if the 'high' would work very well, you could be in for a heavy bill for the brake hoses etc...if you go for medium, and fit your factory bar weights as my other video, you'll reduce the vibes and be fine..good luck chap..Del
Hi mate... well done you, its great to get it done yourself aye...and im glad the video helped you out, thats what its there for, take care and thanks for watching mate.... cheers, Del.
This is why I love watching your videos..you assume nothing. You demonstrate in a very comprehensive and entertaining way. I think this is what is missing for the most part from you tube, the actual "how to." I hate to see the sporty go but quite frankly, you could be working on a radio flyer and I would watch. I think you should start manufacturing and selling bikes! I want to be the first one in the states to own a 1 off Delboy! LOL. Hope it all works out for you. Keep up the great work.
Renthals fitted no fuss , can't believe how much difference they make ! Cheers del I would have spent 60 quid at the local dealer for summat that took half an hour , I owe you a drink !
Hi Tom... the bars weigh a full Kilo, and are 28 inches wide...they have the rubber bushes in the end and the nuts are rattling about inside them, i had no plan tto use them so just took the screws out... if they are of use they're yours, just let me know how you want to go ahead mate..?
I don't have a link, mate, but out of all the different models their model name is 'Renthal Road Bike Low' ... order these and they will be exactly the same... hope that helps, mate, Del
Delboy - your instructional videos are just the best! Watched this a few times before attempting to fit the same Renthal Sportbike Ultra Low bars in this video to my K4 Bandit 600s. I'm new to biking (at 49!) having passed my test 6 months ago and been riding since then, and I have very little mechanical experience. Your vids make things look so straightforward and gave my confidence to do it - so I did last night - no probs - and the switch blocks fit real tight without the holes or tin foil. Gonna go try it out this morning and see what the difference is. Given it's an 11 yr old bike and in mint condition (only had 3200 miles on when I got it) I'm looking to do most of the servicing myself. I had a full dealer service, carb clean, new tyres, etc when I bought it just to get it checked out - it had obviously had a lot of idle time in 11 years at that mileage, but now I'm working up to the next service items. I did the font brakes and chain (by following your videos) but now I'm thinking of doing the valve clearances which are due in a couple of thousand miles. I've read the Haynes and watched numerous vids on TH-cam and it looks easy enough, but I just wondered if you planned to do a video on this with your Bandit any time soon or whether you had any hints/tips/approach 'cos I'm sure they would be a great help. Cheers!!!
Stephen Brewell Hi Stephen... its good to hear that you are getting stuck in with your own work....sadly i cant help with the valve clearances now, i sold the bandit a few months ago, but it truly is a really easy job and as long as you take your time and work methodically, you'll make a good job of it....the only little tricky bit is to get the lock nut done up enough and not close the tappet in on itself...so check the clearance again once you've locked it off to make sure you still have the right gap.... good luck with it buddy. and thanks for watching.. all the best.. Del.
Moonfleet41 Thanks Del. I read it was better to set them at the widest of the tolerance rather than mid (what the dealer would do) or the tightest, as they tend to move tighter rather than looser. Would you agree?
Stephen Brewell
Yeah, thats what i do, at the widest setting they just rattle a bit more when they're cold...but the gaps only shrink, never widen...
Hi mate, provided you have got the top half of the clamp bolted down tight with equal gaps front & rear, it should grip the bar, but if not, then try wrapping a layer of aluminum foil round the bar where it goes into the clamp, then clamp down on to it tight ...this will act as a gasket and fill out any spaces where the clamp isn't touching the bar and give you an all round grip, which should stop it, also being soft, the foil tends to grip like on the road, where a metal rim wouldn't - Del
Hi Cloggie, no it wont effect the bike's handling, just maybe your comfort, but if you have no choice than its academic...just make sure you fit all the switch blocks and grips first...move them in as far as they will go to see how much you can afford to cut off, cut too much and your could make them unusable...the outer bends will dictate how much you can spare...good luck with is..
Hi mate, considering they are nothing more than a method of holding on to the front end, they, in themselves, have no affect on handling whatsoever any more than does the seat or the speedo LOL!..but for any bloke over the height over about 5'10" the Bandit bars are too close making the ride position a bit cramped, I find the 'Renthal Road Bike Low' spec bars straighten my arms out, give a slider wider stance & allow my back to sit straight rather than hunched, they are more about comfort, Del
Hi mate I don't mean to hijack someone else's question but just sitting on the bandit I bought in ride position feels very uncomfortable. I'm actually about 5'10" myself and don't know if the low renthal bars might be a bit uncomfortable for me too with being tall. Do you have any suggestions? Rob
Whoops slips what i was gonna say is my gs has thoughs crap light bar end fittings at moment which makes it feel wierd at front end so will be putting in proper WEIGHTS with the raw plug method.love all your vids by the way as i am now trying to do all my own work on bike from now on as that gives me great satisfaction in being able to do something my self and then the money i saved on paying shop can be spent on something else
I watched this video 2 times... And now, like literally right now.. I will do the same! Thanks for the tips and tricks!
Hope it went well buddy, and thank you for your support..
@@Moonfleet41 it went excellent!
your video helped me do it fast and avoid stupid mistakes and know the steps..
so much fahrvergnügen now!
@@Moonfleet41 do you have videos on bandit carburetor and valves also? Looked through Playlist but didn't find...
@@cattleNhay Hi buddy, sadly not, I never got round to doing the carbs and valve clearances on my Bandit before I sold it, but good news, it's a really easy job (the valves that is) cos they are lock nut and adjuster, rather than shims... so with a spanner and small screwdriver you can set the clearances exact! Carb balancing is a bit of a dark art, and unless you've done it yourself before, then it is good one to take to a tuning shop to get them to maximise your motor's output and it's a sound investment, as the bike will run way better than it does normally!
Hi there, they are indeed perfect for a Bandit - don't know the exact width, but the Renthal model name is 'Road Bike Low' - hope that helps, Cheers Del
I think you'll find it's because the FJ comes with a cast top yoke for clip ons, so you have to convert the yoke to take proper handlebars, all you needed to do was take the top yoke off, drill two holes in and bolt some standard Bandit bar clamps through... probably could have got them from a breaker, then the bars at standard cost... at least you got it sorted, Del
Hey hi. Unfortunatly on my model (2nd generation of bandit 600) the clock is mount on a big metal bracket that also support the front fairing. The horn is also hidding there and removing everything to put a new headlight is a hell of a lot fun. I will have to let it go and keep it with all the fairing! Thanks a lot anyway for your help.
thanks for the vid del boy fitted renthals on my gsr 750 today,look great . Dealer quoted drilling bars and extending brake line, none needed. cheers
Nice one mate, good to hear it... yeah, I've never advocated drilling alloy bars, they are tempered and don't share the same characteristics as steel bars... glad you got it done buddy!
Great video, very helpful! Nice bike too! I'll be installing Renthal medium black on my 2006 Honda 919 (or Hornet in the UK). I felt the opposite way about the locating nubs and had planned on drilling the bars, but I think you have convinced me otherwise.
thank you again what a great video i just swapped my bars over this morning thanks to you, and i do not know one end of a spanner from the other lol but thanks to you i can now swap bars over and do oil changes , some of us are not mechanics but your videos help so much, i just took my wheels of my fzr 1000 exup as they need to be painted but i am to scared to put them back on in case i miss something so i got to wait till a mate has time to do it for me, but one day as my confidence grows sure i will be able to do it myself thank you delboy for your time and help ....
Hi David.. thats exactly tyhe right way to approach it, just do what you feel confident of, and take help where its offered.. i saw the FZR Fighter on your channel, thats a proper ass kickin bike mate, awesome... have fun and enjoy the coming spring.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 yea thats my old fzr 1000 i had it hydro dipped and tunned up took me 6 months to get done, then went out on it just to much wind and i did not enjoy the ride ended up selling that and my cbr1000f and getting a hayabusa 03 like yours best bike ever had then i got hit by a car the hayabusa is a write off and still had my old fzr 1000 exup in garage so now doing that up
@@davidmillard2739 My word, what a story mate.. i hope you weren't hurt in the collision.. too many McGoo's out there these days aye. and Hayabusa?.. watch this space..!
Clear and crisp. Worked a treat. Thx.
A helpful revisit to this video for my own upcoming handlebar change out! Cheers Del!
Most welcome Allen, good luck with it, and you know the drill, drop us a line if you have any problems!
Hi mate, the exact model is - Renthal, Road Bike 'Low' - hope that helps, they also come in many colours, Del
Cheers Del! You're fantastic recommended you to many of my friends (Teen bikers who think they know it all) You have really helped me do some of the basic maintenance work on my 650 bandit even if it's just watching someone else do a job first before I do as a confidence boost can't say mines ratted out but I love the look and enjoy following you're progress with damage! anyway thanks for the tips Delboy and keep the good work up!
Ben
You're most welcome matey, if you do get any movement, just pop a bit of tin foil under the switch block, that hold it rock solid....well done, Del.
By far the best instructions on youtube!!
I was looking for how to disassemble the bar and thanks to you I realized that it was some cover on the screws.
Cheers....changed mine today...apart from managing to lose a screw from the switch gear, this helped greatly
The foil has always worked fine for me and my right block doesnt move.. if you need to pin it, dont waste money buying a new block, just screw in a tiny self tapper where the nub used to be, and drill your hole in the bar...
I filed it and used a few turns of electrical tape for mine but yet again a good video . Keep it up bro .
Another excellent video, I now feel confident in changing my bars.
I've never had them move as I never file the pins totally flat, just leave yourself a tiny nub about 1/2mm thick to bear against the bar and if you need to stop them moving just wrap a turn of tin foil round the bar under the switch block and they'll be fine, I just don't feel happy drilling a hole in handle bars that are not designed to have holes... hope that helps, Cheers Del
Thanks for another great Vid, just ordered a set of ultra lows for my 2003 fazer, was going to put it to a shop to have done, but will do it myself on Saturday. Thanks again, keep up the great work :)
Hi mate, in a following video I did exactly that using some steel raw plugs from the DIY centre costing just a few £'s... I think the video was called 'Bar End Weight Ghetto Fix' - cheap and works every time!
(2008 Suzuki GSF1250s) Excellent video, thank you! Side note: I ordered the Renthal 7/8 street very low profile and the diameter is not the same as the original one which means that I was unable to re-use the original bar ends. If you like me are getting with a 7/8 Renthal then you will need 14mm bar ends (Renthal offer them for $35).
I think you mean the internal bore of the tubing is smaller, and yes, thats right, you cant use the factory bar ends as the came out of the bar...and yes, i know, Renthal do make a small end cap that goes in place of the bar weight, BUT, its light weight alloy and doesn't do the job of dampening the vibration...... SO....
Use the original factory end weights and fit them the way i fitted mine in this video i made a little while after fitting the bars.. here's a link;- Delboy's Garage, Renthal Bars, Bar End Weights Ghetto fix.
Hope that helps..
Del.
Moonfleet41
Excellent thank you Dal! I noticed that you installed a brace to re-enforce your Renthal bar, where did you get it from?
Pat Stimi
Hi Pat, i dont remember where that came from specifically mate, but they are readily available from accessory suppliers like M&P, i've had it for years and i think it was about a tenner..
Learned a lot, thanks for taking the time to make this video mate!
Hi Tom,good to hear from you again,mate,I know what you mean, the pukka 'motorcross' bars are way too wide & flat,I've used "Renthal Road Bike Low",these are almost the same as the OE bars just a tiny bit wider (maybe 1") & a little less 'pull back',perfect for me at 5'11" & more importantly they are very different to the motorcross bars. I do have my standard bars & you are welcome to have them but the postage would be ridiculous because they are pretty heavy..let me know what you wanna do..Del