The fix nobody seems to be talking about for your 3D Printer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- You've researched for hours and tried everything to fix your 3D Printer but nothing seems to work. You've cleaned the nozzle and tube 16 times, replaced it, adjusted e-steps, used five sticks of glue per print, but nothing is fixing the underlying condition! WTF man!
Bought on Amazon:
amzn.to/3idSWle
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
🌍Looking to get a tesla EV or product? Use my referral code and we'll both get 1000 free supercharging miles!🌍
www.tesla.com/...
Power Frunk: www.hautopart....
Use coupon code "DONNY" for 15% off!
Can be used for Power Frunk, power trunk, and kick sensor for Model S,3,X,Y.
Model 3 Audio Upgrade: www.hautopart....
Use coupon code "DONNYAUDIO" for 15%!
📸Add me on Instagram: / donnytheroiguy
🔌🚗🔋Why Tesla will RULE THE WORLD! • Why Tesla will RULE TH...
💰Stock Market NOOBS! Dos and Dont's! • Stock Market Noobs! Do...
💵Get your free stock on the easiest platform, Robinhood!: join.robinhood...
💵Get 12 free stocks on WeBull!: a.webull.com/n...
🧑💼 Disclaimer:
I am not a financial advisor and am not licensed to give financial advice! As a youtuber I provide my opinions and perspectives. You should always do your own research and take action under your own terms.
Nothing feels as good as solving an elusive and maddening problem. Congratulations 🎉
Saved my filament! Thank you 🙌
Awesome diagnostic skills. That's what it's all about- as well as not losing your cool over an elusive issue. 10/10 👍
This is a great reminder to all (new and experienced) makers... when your creality printer comes with a PLASTIC extruder, replace it with the aluminum one! Great that you posted this, as people who are new to 3D printing may not find the big name TH-camrs to get this information. The more times this fix is posted, the better. Good on ya. You gained a subscriber (me)... a "small" TH-camr LOL
I wholeheartedly agree!!!
I never seen any videos on this issue and fixed mine the same way by chance.
I just so happened to have ordered a bunch of recommended upgrades without knowing the metal extruder arm would fix the varying extrusion issues.
Or at the very least if you're one of the people buying an ender because you're on a tight budget, make sure one of your first prints is a set of emergency replacement parts.
you shouldn't have to though. How much more would it cost the company to put decent metal extruders on the machines to begin with! 🤷 They don't care.
ok explain this to me the creality extruder design is a crappy design in plastic right? then why is it a good design in aluminum? get a BMG dual drive clone they are often the same price or cheaper and are just better extruders overall
So I have been having this issue. And looked everywhere on TH-cam on how to fix it. I couldn’t find a fix and gave up. But randomly your video popped up so I watch it. I just took that piece off my machine and it was broken halfway also. Thanks for the video and help!!!
That was a plot twist, I was expecting a loose grub scream on the stepper.
dude i've had the exact same expirience! same problem, tried everything you tried...gave up a few weeks ago and randomly just got suggested this vid today.... will reply in the morning after i check my extruder....i'm 99% sure it has to be the same problem, i just never thought to check that piece, and like you said, nobody mentions it.
Same thing happened to me about two years ago. I also couldn't find any mention of it online.
I hope it solves your problem man!
I was aware of this early when I started this hobby and have a all metal one in my spare box ready for my next maintenance round.
this same thing happened to my schools printer. it was broken for years, and nobody knew what happened, and i arrived first year, and figured i out. they were able to replace it pretty quickly.
Yep, I had my stock extruder crack right away... not the best intro into 3D printing for a noob, but I ended up replacing it with a Sherpa Mini direct drive extruder and have had bliss since then.
ya there are facebook groups that would have told you the arm breaking is a common issue with creality and other cheap printers we also would have warned you not to waste your money on the metal version of a POS extruder and to buy something like a BMG dual drive clone but at least you got yours working
Wow... this must have driven you nuts. I'm new to printing and don't have an Ender 3, but the lesson to take a closer look at the physical parts of the printer is still something I should keep in mind if something strange starts happening.
Same problem! Didn’t realize it was broken until I went to replace some filament and it fell on the print bed 😅
Old problem solved years ago, but kudos for solving it yourself. It’s quite satisfying when problem solving oneself isn’t it. 😅
Crazy satisfying, the diagnosing is the hard part for new users
I have the Creality Ender 3 v2, I haven't had any problems with it yet , but it would be helpful should I experience it later, liked your video very much. Thanks for sharing, wish you all the success in growing your channel.
This has been a known issue with that extruder for years. Every big name TH-camr had made a video on it a few years ago.
Good to know! When I was having problems I never found this solution so I thought I'd post it.
Video titles are exaggerations pal.
No need to get pressed.
I was experiencing this SAME issue and never once found anyones videos on it when researching.
Fixed by accident as I had ordered a kit for an unrelated reason.
Lol... Welcome to social media dude... Content creators have to use clickbait titles in order to be competitive enough with the algorithm to actually gain any views... TH-cam literally tells them to do-so...
@@donnytheasianmillennialdad929 I would suggest binge watching a few creators "known issues with ender 3" (or their clones) series of videos. May help you to plan any upgrades or recognise common problems when they occur.
Oh yeah. I remember having to upgrade to the all metal
I’m glad you found the worn down part I had the same issue a few years ago
Holy crap! One of my Ender 3 V2 printers was being a pain in the butt for the last 2 months and it never occurred to me to even think that would be a possible issue. I kept blaming everything from Florida humidity to user error but watching this and checking, this was the problem and now solution.
Seriously, thank you for this randomness I absolutely needed.
Great video … thanks!
OMG! DUDE! I'm so sorry you had to go through all that! When I first got my Ender-3, the FIRST thing people told me to do was replace the plastic extruder. In fact, I assembled my printer with the aluminum one, and never used the plastic one at all! I guess somewhere along the line, that piece of wisdom got lost, and it's such a bummer you had to suffer for it!
Every ender forum I'm on has mentioned that arm breaking since the original Ender 3 came out.
If I had to choose 2 or 3 top upgrades for anyone new to 3D printers to make life easier would be a metal extruder, glass bed, bed spring upgrade or bltouch.
That was the first upgrade I did to my Creality 3 V2 when I got it, the second was change out the Bowden tube to a real Capricorn blue tube and learned how to install it correctly. I had just installed it without a preload and had slight problems, then read and followed the instructions! Haven't had a problem since! I'm glad you figured it out. I've also added a magnetic base plate, BL touch and changed the firmware to Jyers firmware. Works FANTASTIC!! Keep on keeping on. Good luck. Thanks for explaining your problem and fix, people WILL learn from it.
Thank you! I have a ton of parts I'd like to replace. What advantages does the Jyers firmware have?
same thing happens to me several years back. And yes, those aluminum part is great replacement for it
Having heard about this problem, the first thing I upgraded was switching that out for a metal one.
This is like the number one topic on the ender 3 reddit or Facebook group
yeah this is a pretty common issue with plastic extruder parts, well known and well talked about in essentially every ender 3 community.
Had the exact same issue on my ender, glad you found it as well.
Another thing that can cause a similar problem is a worn out extruder gear. Over time the filament will wear a groove in the brass gear and it can start spinning without grabbing the filament.
I just installed a BMG clone it is great. dual drive with 3-1 ratio, not a great deal more than the one you bought.
They pretty much tell you in all the 3d printer communities to replace those plastic extruders with all metal ones right away all the time. At least the ones I'm part of.
I replaced my extruder clamp with a metal one as soon as I got my Ender 3 Pro. This is a well known issue. Sorry you ended up spending so much time troubleshooting, but hopefully this will put more of a spotlight on this flaw.
Absolutely a great fix. Mine cracked as well. I replaced it with the same kit you are showing. Makes all the difference in the world.
I replaced it with a cheap all metal extruder. It is worth changing for the larger more roboust fitting. Since than I did not need to replace the PTFE tube (1 year so far)
Great video. I have 3 machines. 2 of them have that part made with metal, so no issue. But I do have a Lulzbot TAZ 5. The beauty of this printer is that some parts are metal but some are actually 3D printed. The negative with that is that some parts are 3D printed the positive is that Lulzbot gives you the STL so you can print replacements. I guess they assume you have another printer so you can print the replacement when the Lulzbot needs the part. That exact part on mine broke. It was very clear to see and I diagnosed it easily. So I grabbed the STL, printed it on one of my other printers and within 2 hrs I was back. I printed that part in ABS with 100% infill to make it as strong as possible and printed a second for a backup. Cheers and great video.
A common piece of advice back in the reprap days was to print backup copies of every 3d printed part your printer had, as soon as you got it dialed in at all decently, because then you wouldn't have to worry about the printer becoming inoperable because one of the parts failed. I still have all the replacement plastic bits for my Kickstarter printrbot, even though the printer itself has long since moved on to a new home. 🙂
Installed this before I even made my first print! I highly recommend anyone buying a v2 to do the same thing. It will save you the trouble later down the line. It's not a matter of "if" but "when".
Hey what a nice find of a YT channel! Subscribed!
Edit: also, I hope your channel focused more on making stuff and 3D printing.
Check your stepper Vref voltages too, mine were all around 0.6, at that low voltage the stepper motor torque was being overwhelmed and it was the motor kicking backwards (without chewing the filament). Replaced my extruder but my stock plastic one wasn’t actually broken after 2 years of use
I am glad you made this video, but people are talking about this. I had the same issues, and someone recommended to me that it might be the etruder arm. I replaced the extruder with a dual gear 3:1 ratio BMG style one and it works perfectly now (not to mention, easier for flexible because of the higher torque)
Good on you for sharing this - it caught me when I got my Ender3Pro, after about ten week I had extrusion issues, and because I live in Upper Woopwoop and the height of the pandemic it was going to be six-eight weeks before I could get the same metal gear you as you bought, in fact. It was an almost identical break so I ended up doing a superglue job, then drilled tiny holes so I could run a few turns of single strand wire round and round, melted it in slightly with the soldering iron and epoxied it, then filed away any bits that jammed. It easily lasted the six weeks until I got the new parts.
I changed mine just a month ago as well. Noticed a big crack on the assembly and had to order a metal one. It works fine now.
Thanks for this Video. I had heard of issues with the plastic extruder but did see a problem with mine but my prints seem to be going down hill. Took the arm off and it fell into 2 pieces. Luckily I had purchased a alloy extruder kit when I first got the printer. I just stuck it in the spare parts drawer. Installed and prints are back to looking good.
The sidewinder X-1 was notorious for for this arm breaking... my biggest problem is layer shifting... it makes me want to run into on coming traffic.
Thanks for sharing 👍
You should rename this video to "The fix exactly everybody seems to be talking about for your 3D Printer"
Holy Crap!
This might actually be the solution to my problem as well...already invested countless hours in tuning and upgrading my Ender 3 V2 since it started "misbehaving".
It started to do really weird things with bed adhesion, over/under extrusion and stringing and every upgrade since then has helped reduce the issues but I still felt it prints worse than a few months ago without really having any metric to prove this to myself and now it seems i found the same crack
I really hope this will take me back to that land where I try to print something and it actually just works :)
Surprised your plastic extruder lasted that long. Mine failed within a couple months after I bought it.
Symptoms are all over the place, very frustrating for someone new to the hobby.
Running an orbiter v2, it's an awesome featherweight extruder and pushes like crazy. Prints excellent at 400-500mm/s.
That sounds excellent, I'll look into it. Having some issues now with the heating element it may be time to upgrade
I remember having almost exactly this problem forever ago on a clone tevo tarantula took me so long to figure especially since I had this issue from factory so I'd never gotten working prints to help diagnose issues.
Holy Cow Creality!!! This problem has existed for over 5 years, predating the Ender back to the CR series. Why do they continue to ship this garbage?? I thought all the machines got moved to aluminum? Even though a lot of those are also faulty. The fact this continues to today shows just how little disregard Creality has for its customers.
Donny - If you start having issues again, replace the tension spring. That was the other notoriously weak part on that extruder.
The other issue you will run into from time to time is the gear teeth on the extruder will wear down as well. It will under extrude, cause the same issues you are running into before and you can’t tell why.
I ordered something similar, just with a dual gear extruder. I originally had issues with it skipping.
I think I saw CHEP do a video on this part breaking. It's a good entry level machine, but compromises are made to give it that entry level price. Still an amazing value for a 1st timer. ☮️❤️🌈
Absolutely, I'm ready to upgrade to a more sophisticated machine but never would have gotten into it without this.
@@donnytheasianmillennialdad929 My first/only FDM printer is a Two trees SP-5 that I settled on after watching the Aurora Tech Channel review. I knew it was a project machine. I love it now that I have an authentic BLTouch and E3D Revo Hemera on it. I would definitely suggest a core XY!
I was reading and watching anything I could find on FDM printers before I decided on which machine to buy. I settled on an Ender 3 pro last year since it had such a large community and it was easy to build and work on. The extruder was the first thing I updated before I even plugged it in! That and changed the bed springs and thumb wheels. I did several other upgrades including an all-metal hot end and a direct drive extruder. I highly recommend installing a adapter for the micro SD card to a standard SD. There is plenty of easy .stl files on thingiverse for the housing and by doing this it will save you, at a later time, of having to replace the main board. The adapter costs about $12 USD while the main board starts at $35. The micro SD is on the main board so if it wears out you can't replace it.
Ah this is actually really well known.
I always get better extruder feeders anyways, right off the bat.
A nice simple extruder is the SeeMeeCNC EZ-Struder. It’s plastic but a far superior design.
Or any of the dual gear extruders.
I’m glad to see Creality moving away from these insufficient feeders. My Ender3 S1 has the new Sprite direct drive. Which is quite awesome
Great info, thanks! Do you know if creality is changing the problematic pieces in newly manufactured Ender 3s or just new models?
@@donnytheasianmillennialdad929 the neo line has the metal extruder.
Well known doesn't mean people will see the existing videos on it for certain.
I sure didn't...
Fixed mine by accident when upgrading with a bunch of parts I asked around about not knowing the WHY.
The more times it's posted, the easier the solution is to find!!!!
Get some Capricorn tubing, and lube the Z lead screw with Superlube ptfe jelly. The first makes sharper corners, the second smooths out the print lines. A spider coupler for the lead screw and Cr10 bed springs would also be prefered. 5 years with my Ender 3 classic, and those are the game changers.
This is a widespread issue amongst all enders and cr10s that come with the plastic extruder. When I got my printers in March, I was told to replace this piece within a month or so cause it’s known to spontaneously break during prints. I see you went with the metal variant, I had issues with that grinding my filament and went with a bmg clone
Great info, how has it been treating you since the upgrade? So far I don't think I've had issues with mine grinding the filament, but maybe I should look more into that.
@@donnytheasianmillennialdad929 I went with the metal on my voxelab aquila (e3 v2 clone) and my ender 3 pro, both were grinding the filament no matter how loose or tight i made the tensioner arm so I chose the bmgs on those and now have one on my cr10 as well. The bmg clones have been perfect for me, have two in bowden and one with a printed direct drive setup which is my main tpu machine
Make a sharpie mark on both wheels, and see if they turn at the same rate or not. Mine failed the same way.
Great advice
Another culprit that can have the same effect on your prints is the toothed gear worn out. It will not grip the filament and slip.
I'm starting to see this as well, glad I at least wore out the original and I can upgrade to the new one I kept on hand
I have had the exact same problem with my printer and didn’t know why this was occuring. If this is what happened in my case, I am finally going to achieve clean prints, thanks a lot!
Yeah mine was broken on arival. I'm sorta glad tho because I looked it up and found about the whole issue... Sorta lucky
had the same issue and yup after i replaced/upgraded everything else sure enough i took the appeared to be good extruder apart it was broken
Thats the first thing i did when i bought my first ender 3 pro i upgraded the extruder the bed springs and i all so bought a glass bed i all so bought SKR2 board to replace the stock board
That metal kit from amazon is kinda junky, the stock plastic creality extruder performs better. Creality has addressed the issue you had, with a metal version, that's significantly better than the Red and Orange kits on Amazon. I've tested 18 different extruders and by far the best is SeeMeCNC EZR Struder. I primarily print TPU in my farm (12 printers) so I require the EZR Struder. For pla, petg, and most hard plastics the stock works fine until the arm breaks. Also, worth mentioning, that when you replace your extruder (or just dissaemble) that you need to do E-Steps calibration again (the 100mm thing) 👍
This is the first thing to break on every single ender, it is highly recommended to swap to a metal extruder on these machines
How is this the "fix nobody seems to be talking about"? This is literally the first thing I was told to replace in every Facebook group and Reddit feed I looked in. This is a very well known issue with the Creality printers, a little research would have told you that in less than 10 minutes.
These plastic extruders work fine until you tighten the spring. The lowest spring tension is actually way too strong. Do not ever ask for advice on forums because you will be trolled and the first advice will be to tighthen the extruder.
I had the same problem with my Ender 3v2. The thing that bothers me is that Creality knows about this problem, yet they do nothing about it. I got them to send a replacement, but it was the same crappy plastic part, so I just tossed it and bought the same metal kit you have. I've been using it for almost a year with no problems. If your printer comes with a plastic extruder, do yourself a favor and upgrade to metal asap.
good job Donny!
Thank you!
...and the more you tighten the tension arm, the more likely you are to break it.
Imho. best idea is to print bulldog tensioner bto have it laying around - it loads the tensioner in a manner thats more favourable to 3D printed parts.
My prints are all over the place sometimes comes out nice but other times are horrible. I did installed the same exact replacement but still getting bad prints. I recalibrated the E steps after the new extruder assembly arm but didn't change much I feel like throwing this ender 3 pro out of my 4 floor window. Anyways thanks for video
That is LITERALLY one of the first things people point to when you are under extruding...that and a clog.
Why would you not replace the entire thing with aluminum components? Waiting to have issues again?
First thing I did was change many of my Ender 3 parts to metal. I never trust plastic strength! Even the one you print.
I wanted to do the same, but figured I would get my money's worth on the stock parts before upgrading. Figures I would forget when the issues started popping up
That stupid part also wasted a month of my time few years ago. Later I saw that Chuck made a video on this topic. It pretty much happens on every Ender3 like extruder.
Very nice, I upgrade to the metal extruder before mine broke
I've converted all mine to the same look extruder but with dual gears. There is no reason whatsoever to run a single gear extruder. With the dual gear you get less slipping as the printing pressure increases. In other words, you might be extruding the exterior layer very slowly vs the next layer inside faster vs the infill very fast. With a single gear extruder, you can only tune "best" for one extrusion speed. I have a number of printers and I don't even wait for those cheap plastic extruders to break.
Old news, I got my ender 3v2 almost 2 years ago and I knew about this issue before it even arrived.
It took me months of trying to get the bed level only to realize my v slot roller had a flat spot
You are going through the same thing the rest of us go through. Plastic parts suck in the extruder. I replaced the extruder on my ender 3 - 3 years ago. I use an extruder flag on top of the extruder that clearly shows if the extruder is working properly.
Had that happen once as well.
the people in the E3 facebook group I'm in seem to be very aware of this fix...
That's why you replace your plastic extruder with an aluminum one out of the box, unfortunately.
Ender-3 is notorious for extruder issues, sooner or later everyone experiences it, I myself changed the extruder few months ago.
Study and get micro swiss direct drive for stronger prints
The same thing happened to me, but I already had a Biqu H2 ready to be mounted, so it just pushed me to upgrade my Ender 3 V2....
I've only been printing for a little over a year and watching along I was guessing the extruder was the problem. I had a similar issue except instead of a broken "handle" or whatever the term is, it was the teeth on the gears becoming compacted and slippery from Silk PLA I used previously.
Another thing to watch out for in the future is wear on the gear that connects to the stepper motor right there. It is made of brass and the teeth will wear out after some time.
The one thing, REALLY, that people should say about ender 3's, is that the MK8 hotend+Extruder is pure garbage(IMO bowden setups in gral without dual drive extruders) some are really lucky and get hours and hours without any problem(black magic or some shxt), but if u wanna do all kinda stuff, and use technical filaments, put that piece of crap in the bin and upgrade. (Titan Aero, Hemera, BMG=V6/Volcano, etc). Even the sprite pro is better...and all of them dont need dual z, they're really light.
And the thermistor not being encapsulated...c'mon u look at it and it breaks, also the nozzles are inconvenient/impractical compared to a V6/Volcano, Trianglelab for that kinda stuff is superb.
That hotend was born to print the upgrades and parts needed to replace itself xD
Can't even get mine to work, I think trashing it is my best option.
7 subs in one day wow congrats
Thank you, you never know what vid will blow up
This was the first upgrade I did with my Ender 3 Pro that I purchased 2 years ago.
Man i hate Ender 3v2. I have good prints but i hate it. I can't wait to replace it
Direct drive all the way for me.....
The less parts the better ✌️
The ender 3 and it's clones aren't really printers, their problem solving courses.
You've found one design flaw, more will appear as your printer accumulates hours. Enjoy the learning experience, you'll have a much better understanding of 3d printer engeneering by the end of it.
That dang plastic extruder lever. I got my chops on an OG Ender 3 just a few years ago. I feel like the issues and upgrades helped me learn and understand FFF. I probably would have rather had a modern ender 3 s1 pro if I had to do it over, but I don't know if I'd have the grasp I do now.
Thoughts?
Had the same issue, a hairline crack, I had to super glue it and quickly print a spare arm until the metal one came. And till this day I'm still using the printed arm.
That's pretty hilarious the printed one has lasted longer than the stock piece
Some additional issues that you may encounter is over, tightening it, and it put so much pressure on the filament that it slips and tears up the filament into a flat spot. Also your voltage to your stepper motors if they’re using too much power because you’re pushing it too hard / fast, you may need to up the potentiometer to maintain the need voltage. When under a significant load, my 3-D printer would skip and cause a later shift, which was caused by a power supply not being able to maintain the 24v due to it dying. These are just some past issues I encountered, and posted a video on my channel.
04:27 to get the the Actual solution and point to the video. The rest is just Ad Revenue filler.
that was the first thing i upgraded.
Most common fault you can get. It's all over google and TH-cam. That's what to check first if you have stock extruder. But I hope your video can help someone 👍
Thanks! Funny enough it already has, I think the hard part is just not being able to diagnose the problem for new users, they get fed up and never print again. The title of the vid is meant to catch those users