This is the second part of 1x12 drivetrains review. Part 1: th-cam.com/video/Ew03wbHOHS0/w-d-xo.html Part 2: th-cam.com/video/vTTfcHeM2jc/w-d-xo.html Part 3: th-cam.com/video/X1jdTDPwFVc/w-d-xo.html
Great video, man! Totally agree with you about 1x vs 2x. 1x is not for everybody. I still run 3x10! As someone who uses the same bike (MTB) for multiple purposes (performance road riding, on and off road touring [bikepacking], long distance rides, and riding singletrack), I feel that I would be limited by any of the 1x drivetrains. If the drivetrain was "optimised" for best performance in one area (example: climbing/low speed stuff), that would be at the expense of other areas (example: fast flat roads and/or downhills). Or vice-versa. I like my bike to be able to do all things reasonably well and the front derailleur helps to accomplish this. The front derailleur is definitely not dead.
I'm racing cross country and I use this drivetrain. I absolutely love it! I agree the intervals between gears are a bit big, but I don't mind too much. I just love the reliability and simplicity of it. It's good to know that the gear will allways engage and I'm not afraid to put the power down. Accelerating up to speed is a dream with this drivetrain. Maybe in marathon races I would have an issue with the cadence, but for all out XCO racing I think it's perfect 👌
3X10 shimano xt smokes my body with his 12 eagle, fast uphill and super fast on fireroads. The problem with 2 or 3X10 is that most people don't know how to use them and when to shift, if you pay attention you can hear the gears crunching as they climb, great vid cheers!
1x it's more simple and it doesn't have that many cables, 3x/2x comes with more speeds, depends on the riding type mate, there isn't one that is better or worse, it just depends
Good video. Gaps between cogs is only ~10%, which in not much and can be made up for by changing cadence or gear. Also, MTB means constantly varying terrain - very rare to get in a comfortable cadence. Need to change gear by large amounts very rapidly. narrow gear spacing means having to sweep over a lot of gears. Some of us prefer wide spacing so that we can change gear to suit terrain by sweeping only over 2-3 cogs rather than 5.
Good point. I was thinking XC racing. Longer than a couple of hours and it's more about finding a steady gear and keeping in that happy place. Narrower spacing might be more suitable then.
In my opinion 2x1o still the best choice.. large range of gears to train and race, you can find the right pace and save energy. I run 3x10(full xt) and i'm pretty happy, i dont think in change to 1x or 2x, i have all the gears i need, so no problem :D
@ 3:00 when he addresses the tooth profile and the narrow wide. It comes down to the ramping and engagement of the teeth. Its there by design. When you shift your bike, it doesn't automatically shift....not even on Di2. Yes the derailleur moves, but it doesn't shift until the chain makes contact with the ramps (shift gates). The narrow wide profile on the 50T is there to ensure the chain doesn't come off during chain growth situations where there is already a massive amount of torque on the chain.
I have 1 x 12 on my Santa Cruz and I absolutely love it. I use to ride a 3 x 7 system which I liked and it gave me great range, but I often find my self staying on the mid size cog most of the time. So far the 1 x has a gear for every situation I've been in. The 50 teeth has been great for those very steep climbs and the 10 teeth is awesome at high speeds, especially if you're on a 29er. It all comes down to personal preference, but the 1 x is here to stay.
Totally agree with this. I changed to 1x11 using a OneUp 11-50 tooth expander kit (shimano xt m8000 groupset) and it works great. But even with the 10 tooth kit I'm about to add to it I still won't get the same range as my old 2x set up and still will have bigger jumps between gears, which isn't really a huge deal and you get used to but its always a compromise. When you're climbing brutally steep hills and riding fast on the flat then you need the range if you want to maintain a sensible cadence and ride efficiently without destroying your legs. Which is necessary for XC riding where I live (west coast norway). The XT m8000 direct mount front derailleur I had worked so damn well it was amazing. Worked every bit as well as the dura ace 9070 Di2 front derailleur on my road bike. In a year and a half if XC riding I dropped my chain once. But I've dropped it once in the year and a half since changing to 1x as well. So the only disadvantage to the 2x is a few hundred grams. But believe me, the better range and cadence and better drive train efficiency offered by 2x for XC riding will make you faster any weight savings 1x can offer. I'm kinda committed to my1x set up though since I bought a power2max power meter when I made the conversion and I'm pretty sure it's not compatible with 2x cranks :(
If you can't find the right cadence it is because you are doing flat trail like if you were riding road bike. Even 2x10 will not give you nice ratio. If you want to have lot of cadence option, you will need a small cassette like 11/32, not 11/42 or even 11/40 or 10-/42 . For racing, 1x11 or 1x12 is really good. For flat trail like you are doing most of the time, you should go with 2 gears in the front or why not go back with 3, 3x9 was good for the time
I run 1x10 with an 11-36 cassette (same jumps as an 11spd 11-42, almost the same jumps as Eagle) on my fitness/road frankenstein bike that I only use on the road. Not a wide range of gears but it works for me. I set it up so I have easier gears, not huge top speed since gravity will do the job downhill anyways and i'm not in a hurry. This will sound weird, but I like the bigger jumps on the cassette. With a narrow range cassette and a double or triple sometimes I shift a bunch at the back and I still don't get the ratio I want, then I shift at the front and it's a HUGE jump. And on certain setups you can't even use all the gears because if you cross chain you can have issues with the chain rubbing on the chainrings or on the front derailleur. With the 11-36 10 speed I shift once and I immediately get a bigger difference, and if needed i'll just choose an easier gear and spin more. I'm not racing, i'm not even in a hurry but since I switched to 1x i'm absolutely loving it. It's just so simple to use and looks so clean. I'm not sure if i'll ever use a front derailleur again on any kind of bike. Eagle is coming down in price pretty fast with the GX Eagle which is pretty damn good.
I converted to a 1x10 maintained my low end and sacrificing a bit of high gearing. Works out perfectly for the trail riding I do. Haven't found a hill where it's been a problem. I can out pedal myself downhill on the road but that's a rare eventuality and downhill off road if I need to pedal at over 35km/h then something's wrong! I like the simplicity and one less thing to break. Especially now I just have a thumb free to hit my dropper lever...
The non-repetitive pattern (narrow wide) usually has to do with reverb vibration dampening = less noise, which also means stays on the cog better. The mathematics of a ten tooth cog coupled with a single chainring compared to an 11 tooth cog and two chainrings can easily be calculated translated to gear inch (wheel diameter x chainring teeth / cog teeth). For example, 27.5 x 32 / 10 = 88 and 27.5. x 44 / 11 = 110. Clearly a two by provides for faster downhill speeds.
When you are illustrating the shifting, there is no pressure on the drivetrain whatsoever. Try shifting to the lowest gear while climbing a steep grade, will it be as smooth as you show?
I understand the desire to get rid of 3x drivetrains because of all the complexity required to shift them, but I have a custom 2x8 drivetrain with a 26t small chainring in the normal position and a 44t big chainring in the middle position. (I use a 3x crankset so the outer position is filled with a bash guard.) I have no trouble shifting from 26t to 44t as long as I use a name-brand chain, and it essentially functions as a 1x8 with an optional low-range if I ever need it. Getting the same extra-low ratios provided by my 2x8 drivetrain with only a single chainring would require HUGE sprockets on the rear wheel, which would mandate the use of aluminum sprockets to avoid an equally huge weight penalty. There is no coating available for aluminum sprockets that can make them as strong as steel sprockets.
Nice setup. I had bought a bike with an 1X 11speed drivetrain, because I fell for the hype. It is a commuter/fitness bike with a rigid fork I use for gravel and a bit MTB riding. I soon realized that 11-32 with a 42t chainring is a bit hard on steep terrain. Fortunately there was the option to install another (32t) chainring using longer chainring bolts and spacers. So now I got a 2x11 drivetrain. I have to shift down using my foot though, because there is no mount for a front derailleur and the seattube isn't circular in shape. On the top of the hill, I stop and put the chain back onto the 42t chainring if I want to go faster than ~25mph. Chainline is obviously way better with the 32t chainring when climbing and it is definitely faster than with the cross-chaining when I use the 42t ring. Also got a singlespeed that really is a triple singlespeed. M771 crank with 36/32/26 at the front and 14/18/25 at the back. Works with no tensioner and I can "shift" without having to loosen the quick release of the rear wheel. (Have to get off the bike and do it by hand, of course)
I have recently converted from 2x11 to 1x11 and I think it's great and I have all the range I need to where I ride with a 32t chainring and 10-42 cassette. I can't see will ever need 1x12 especially given the cost and the fact that it's not even a one off cost as its a wearable part. The main benefits for me was saved weight combined with better looks and a cleaner cockpit
I have the older 11 speed sram nx eagle and its been over a year and the shifting is still really good and precise. No skipping of gears, no ghost shifting. In the mud it works great, in the winter slush it works great. Sram overall just makes really good drive trains. And in my opinion the sram clutch cages are better performing than shimano on and off clutch switch
For me as an enduro rider 1x11 / 1x12 is definitely the way to go. But only if you are stron enough. For people who don't cycle that often 2x10 / 2x11 would be more comfortable, especially in conditions where you have to ride long, steep climbs.
+SickBiker At the beginning this was a problem form me too. I took out my 32 teeth and replaced it with an 34 teeth chain blade in the front. That's also the reason why I said that one has to be a bit stronger bc. on the uphills this 2 teeth more can get a bit harder. (but I can tell you, I think you are even better trained than me, so this shouldn't be a problem) For orientation: ; ) I ride a 26" bike with a 11-46 cassette and 34 in the front and I can go fast in the bikepark and it's quite comfortable in going uphill , so it would be possible to take a 36 but the 34 is the best way to go for long uphill and faster descents.
1X is probably good for rolling hills where you would use front shifter on a 2X a lot and it might get annoying. But here in NorCal, most of the rides are long uphill followed by a long downhill, so really only need to shift in the front a few times per ride, and get better chain line and gear ratios without a dinner plate in the back with a 2X system. Not sold on 1X.
2x10 is really good. My old bike that i gave to my brother still has it, and i'm always surprised with how well it works when i use it. I enjoy 1x on my current bike because its simpler. Even with back pedal chain jump, it has never ever been a problem on a trail. 32 x 11-40 works well for me even on very steep climbs. I would like to upgrade to 1x12 with the following ratios for it to make sense as an upgrade with better top end speed and climbing ability: 34x 10-50. 1x is simpler in the end and definitely good enough. You cant argue with Nino's results in epic, and xco racing on it.
People are installing 14t pulley wheels in order to save a Watt or two and they are paying a lot of money for it and then we are running 10t sprockets and lose 5-10 Watts or even more there? Ludicrous. One can feel even an 11t sprocket isn't really circular and a lot of power is lost there. 10t? No effin way.
I have 1x11 Sram GX on my Farley EX fullsus fatbike and zero problems. Works just as intended, no back pedaling problems either and range is good with 10-42 casette and oval 34t absoluteblack chainring. Also no issues with mud, sand and snow. Chainline is ok with 197x12mm rear hub and 121mm bottom bracket.
Riveting tale, chap. With the multi-shifting on rear shifters, you're not getting any real advantage of lugging that bigger chainring, and you're worst of both worlds by also having an extra ring on the rear. 2x10 with the proper sizes would offer you everything you need, but with less weight.
Come on, nobody is "lugging" a chainring. It comes in handy bombing hills on the way home, and I wouldn't trade it for anything. I also have a CX and road bike, so it's not like I'm opposed to 2x... I just want it on my full sus.
Honestly, I've yet to encounter a hill that would make me want to have a higher ratio than 36/11. Maybe a really steep and really long tarmac descent, but on trails, no effing way.
I saw both of your videos as some others. For me and others I believe, the problem is situated on another level. TH-cam users of 1x drivetrain, load their bikes on cars / pick up trucks and go to the trails. Well, as I said, others like me, never load bikes on trucks. They just pedal on road many km to and from the trails. And that is 20-40 km. My question is: are these 1x drivetrains efficient / fast on road like 3x or 2x, or they are just too slow? On road with a 3x9 drivetrain many times I will use 3x8 or 3x7 or 2X9 or 2x8 gears and get between 28-35km/h with 3.1, 29er wheels. Sometimes a 45km/h is possible for 500m with some soft wind on the back and lot of pressure in the tyres, suspension locked. Is this possible with 1x12 drivetrain or is it something that will never get you going more than 26km/h on a road with a 29er hardtail? Thanks
Like you I ride to the trails and end up doing around 15km of road riding before hitting the trails. I have a 34 tooth front ring and find myself often in 34x14 (I think). I need to count the actual numbers of the teeth. I sometimes wish I had a 36 in the front as I would like to get a little more speed.
@@GeneVilleneuve Well in the 1x12 the most common front is 32 and back in NX Eagle is 50-10, while back in Shimano is 51-10. Shimano also has a possibility of 2x12 with this XTR system. Right now I am waiting for a Cube 120 Pro stereo. If I wont be satisfied with 1x12 drivetrain I will install a 2x12 when time comes. I have asked the dealer on the possibility of the Cube 120 to get a 2x12 system and he said it is possible. I bet it is, cause last year they was selling it with 2x10 same frame. Also the 2020 Cube hardtail bikes series come with 2x12. While some other bike brands have a frame with the possibility to have only 1x12 which might be a problem. So be aware...
@@GeneVilleneuve why not run 42 or 46T front... I mean u probably have 50-11 or 52-10 gearing on the rear side. Can't see why U need granny gears that low!!!! Also 29er (2.1inch wide) is more efficient than 26inch 3"+ wide tires.
I have used a 36 tooth chainring with eagle and it is so good! You can have those slow gears as well as super fast gears. When you have a 2-3x you have lots of useless gears that you never even use
Hey Biker, if by "useless gears that you never even use", you are referring to all the possible combinations of chain rings with clogs, just remember to not cross-chaining... If you have 3x9, you actually do not have 27 gears. Then, some combinations we do not use just because of habit. In a 3x7, say, depending on the no. of teeth of the cassette/free-wheel, one could be used to 2-5 and never use a 3-4 regardless of getting more or less speed or power for climbing/acceleration, just because of "being used to it".
The terms 2x and 3x are just commercial misnomers but there's no useless gear on them. It's just that each chainring is associated with a different set of cassette cogs. For example I have a 3x8 setup with 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32 on the cassette and 28-38-48 chainrings. This setup is in fact a 12 gears system: 28 chainring goes with the 4 big cogs (21-32), 38 chainring goes with the 4 middle cogs (15-24), 48 chainring goes with the 4 small cogs (11-18). In order to use all 12 gears I just need to shift back one gear on the cassette each time I shift chainring. It requires some training at the start to get used to it but it's really simple when you have the habit. I made the calculations and the gear range and stepping is pretty close to this Eagle XX1 mounted with a 44 chainring. Except that the largest Eagle chainring is 38 so I would lose on top speed in exchange for easier uphills that I don't need. The second reason why I would never buy this is that the 50t cog is way too big and reintroduces the chain and derailleur position issues that the 2x and 3x systems were created to solve. I think 1x systems are fine as long as the cassette doesn't exceed a 10-44. If they want to put more cogs in it they should work on reducing gaps between gears in that range and keep the cog size under control. Going for huge cogs to satisfy both steep uphills and high top speed on the same chainring is the one bad idea that the front derailleur solves: your chain and derailleur are getting closer to the ground, increasing the risk of hitting something in a turn. I think the right move to increase the gear range with a single chainring would be to either work on improving internal gear hubs or find a completely different derailleur system that doesn't depend on a rotating arm which comes close to the ground on some gears.
Even on the road if you're not at all performance orientated I think the range and jumps on the 1x is perfect. As a non-performance rider I was constantly shifting multiple gears on the 2x, and lots of unusable range with the 16T chainring differential. I'm loving my new 1x conversion, love the feeling and simplicity of not having that front deraileur with the extra chainring and having the larger jumps. Not biased though. As an ex club A-grader (road) I obviously wouldn't consider 1x for that. The closer towards your personal threshold you get, the more valuable it usually becomes to have smaller jumps, as well as the range that only a 2x can give you. I can certainly imagine that for competitive mtb marathons where you have longer straighter more constant sections you'd probably want 2x there too, particularly at the higher levels of competition where they're performing closer towards their personal threshold for longer. But when you're not riding competitively, you don't need to worry about a small drop in speed to maintain a good cadence, as you don't need to keep near your threshold to be competitive. Performance training is different too, there are many who don't race but still train hard and would benefit from the 2x. I think with 1x, the only way a front deraileur can be dead is if they can somehow create something like a fully-functioning 20-tooth cassette. That will probably happen somewhere down the road, if I had that option as a road racer I'd take it over the 2x. Why not, the 2x has overlapping range which creates redundancy and inefficiency, as well as the added complexity of manually managing an extra system in the form of a front deraileur for those using mechanical shifting? I haven't much experience with the 1x, but I imagine in competition the 1x would be quicker shifting than shifting two deraileurs together. Can't say "no" to easier shifting!
Great input. Got new bike with 2x11, home made it to 1x11 but ... was missing low gear, high gear, chain crossing was an issue, but biggest issue was big steps between the gear jumps and I was not able to find the ideal gear. Either I was going to slow or too fast, was hard or impossible to find sweet spot gear / cadence on 1x11 Now I`m back on 2x11
the rear cassettes are usually different between 1x and 2x that might be your gap issue between gears not feeling right, also all good if your style of riding allows you to run a front derailleur, but riding has gotten so hardcore lately with enduro descents nearly as knar as downhill courses and the need to pedal to the top of them a 1x is the only way to go, if they can climb with a heavier bike on 1x no worries I am not sure it's a cadence issue also the 1x allows the use of chain guide system which is needed in terrain like this, simply put a front derailleur will not cut it for certain riding.
Agree about the jumps between gears, I'd like to see a 10-42 (or 11-42) with 12 cogs to make the jumps smaller (especially in the higher gears - going from 10 to 12 teeth, a 20% change I find quite unpleasant).
Difference between 10 and 11 cogs - 110%. Difference between 46 and 50 cogs: 108,7%. My point being that this system in comparison with Shimano's doesn't offer a "much lower" climbing gear and a "bit higher" top gear. They are both heavier and lighter by approximately the same degree. The 10t cog really makes a difference in comparison with 11. A 10-42 also has the same range as an 11-46.
Hey man, curious question. You're always saying that the 2x system is best for xc/marathon racing, yet the bikes that you do xc/marathon racing on are usually equipped with a 1x system. Why is that so?
I thinks the manufacturers are really pushing 1x systems, which are really good, but not the best for all purposes. My FSI and Ninety-Six are both 2x compatible.
it's all about money... These systems pays more and wears faster! Users automaticaly are good customers for spares producers and sellers... 😎 Everything else is an art of marketing with a little piece of truth.
One thing for sure, it looks damn awesome, but a agree with you : 2x really allows you to find the right cadence and to get the optimal speed ! And im very far from being into competition... Still you didnt say if there is a difference between riding with an 11t cog and a 10t cog... does this litle difference really makes you faster ?
Hum, didnt think that'd make such a difference... Now for where i ride, i both need my 30t and my 40t (yes 40 is extreme)... Take one of those off my bike and i clealry wont have as many fun !
1 tooth on an 10 or 11T is not a small difference, it's all relative to the size of the cog. Think of the difference in percentage and it will make sense. On a 40T front chainring for example of course a one tooth difference will barely do anything but when there is only 11 teeth and you loose one it is a big difference.
i agree with the fact that one by is not for CX riders, they need the range of their rewuired cadence... but in tracks where you need the range, but cannot afford the soace underneath(rocky conditions)(namely rocky enduro), one by would be amazing. however, then the problem is the hanging rear dereilleur. They become super susceptible to rocks smashing them. This is where I like gear boxes! that's is right, those heavy clunks which require the oedalling to be stopped before you shift. However, it has its own disadvantages and I am getting to lazy to type rn.
Ais… the hate against 1x drivetrains for XC. To be honest, the jump between gears on any mountainbike cassette is “big” and uncomfortable. You won’t solve the problem by having two/three chainrings. If you are so worried about it, use a road bike cassette in the rear and go 3x. For me, I don’t have time to find my perfect cadence in a race, I’m too busy having fun and riding without having to worry about dropped chains or keeping that chain line in check. On your Iceland trip, you were riding mostly flat sections with a 32 front chain ring (meant for lower strength riders or used in real climbing area’s) forcing you to be in high end of the cassette range where yes, the jumps are big. Try using 36/38 or higher and your cadence issues should be mostly solved.
Yes, the Icelandic race could be easily ridden on 36T chainring in the front, but I'm preparing myself to XC races and 1x doesn't feel the best there to me.
Just as you said, something like 1x12 with 10-40 cassette (if you're willing to climb those steepest hills on foot) would almost certainly solve your problem with cadence in xc racing because the cadence "steps" between gears would be obviously smaller so it would be easier to find that sweet spot. Plus it would be lighter. That would be the perfect drivetrain for you, or just wait till Sram reinvents it again and introduces 1x13 ;)
I have a sram X0 3x10 and i love It! Maybe i can upgrade to a 2x10 but 1x12 fell to me like a marketing thing to sell more stuff. Ps: i still have a 8kg carbon fiber 26", no sense to me to skip to a 29"
Nice job on the video! I have two Santa Cruz Highball's that I ride regularly. One is built with SRAM XO1 1x11 and the other has Shimano XT 2x10. There are a few other small differences between the two bikes beyond that that aren't worth mentioning. Both have their strengths and weaknesses, but I find that I tend to gravitate towards riding the SRAM equipped bike a bit more. Maybe I'm imagining it, but the kilo or so difference in weight between the two bikes is noticeable to me when it comes to how the bikes handle & climb. I understand your point about gear spacing on a 2x10 vs a 1x11/12, but at the same time I find that a lot of the gears on a double chainring setup just wind up being redundant. Since I do not have the Eagle 1x12, I do have to admit that I appreciate the wider gear range that the 2x10 provides, particularly on long, steep climbs, but conversely I don't see a lot of value in the really tall gears on the dirt...I'm generally not pedalling that much on fast descents. Your comments on the "quietness" of the Eagle drivetrain caught my attention. The XT 2x10 drivetrain is a definitely quieter than the SRAM 1x11 and this has been one of my main complaints with the 1x11. The other complaint being that I bent the big cog on my first cassette in two places and had to replace it (which wasn't cheap.) In favor of my 1x11 bike, eliminating the front derailleur makes the bike easier to clean, and it is one less thing to tune / tweak. For me, it's a tough call between the two approaches, but in the future I'd really like to have a bike with the Eagle 1x12, and it's probably what I'd buy now if I was getting another bike. That being said, I got an amazing deal on the XT 2x10 bike (year end closeout) - it was over 1/3 less expensive than what I paid for the 1x11 equipped bike. No 1x11's were to be found at that low price ;-)
This is only a guess, but I would think the shaped teeth on the chain ring is to allow the large chain line angle from chain ring to cassette. Drivechain wear is also going to be excessive due to the large chain line angle. Two by gives a greater ratio choice, less wear and only a small amount of weight gained. For 99% of riders it's the best choice. Also it costs over 1000 euro....!
I'm not gonna start defending either 1x or 2x I don't want to start arguing. It's just one thing, on my 1x11 setup I haven't noticed any premature wear. I've heard it a bunch and I know everyone is always told if they cross chain on a 2-3x setup their bike will explode, but really I didn't experience any excess wear at all.
I accept that point, but the teeth are machined to REDUCE the wear on the sprockets due to the wide chain line angle. I guess wear isn't such an issue. But ratio choice is an issue, as well as cost. Not many riders (only the elite) would benefit from the weight saving of 1X. It must be less than 500 grams (Front shifter/Derailleur) 1000 Euro to remove 500 grams is a lot of cash. It would be easier (and cheaper) to drop a few pounds from the rider :)
Again, i'm not going to go into any of that stuff. :) I just tought I would share my experience about the wear. I'm on "plain old" 1x11, not Eagle. GX Eagle just came out btw.
2 by or 3 sound better depends on how 10,11,12.the one by still not feeling it. I like to have options.. I'm going to see what it would be like with a 3 by 12, this is more options.
Really good technical vid, showing how Sram have engineered the product to achieve a reliable product. I do like the one times and have it on one of my roadbikes i restored, due to its design the front derailleur was unreliable, the one time cured this problem by removing the part. The other advantage is it can be cheaper as you only need one derailleur, this could really save some coin with electronic groupsets. BUT it does limit you if you have big terrain differences, especially on a road bike, but for general undulating terrain it is simple and easy to use, especially for people starting up cycling. One thing you forgot to mention is the smaller the rear cassette, the less efficient it is. 10t gives very little chain grip, it will be interesting if this is copied by the other brands and filters to roadbikes to expand the full gear percentage.
I have had a 1x10 deore on my hardtail and now have a 1x12 deore xt with my new bike. Never had an issue with either and I totally agree that for mountainbiking 2x/3x are dead.
I disagree. The jumps between gears are way too big for my taste on those humongous cassettes. I refuse to use anything bigger than the 11-32 cassette from Shimano, so I obviously need a second chainring. Had a 1x on my bike for a year and it sucked, chainline is so bad when climbing, I'm much faster with a 2x.
I'm using 10 speed SLX clutch derailleur with goat link and Sunrace 11-42 plus XT shifters and Race Face 32 front. Shifts great and no dropped chains unlike my sram drive trains could run a 11-46 but don't need it. SRAM is alright but my dream bike would have Shimano.
Thanks for this review. For a little while there I was thinking you were about to drag out that old chestnut of chain line .. glad you didn't ;) For me 2x (and 3x) is certainly dying in many applications and I'd probably say that it's history for the majority of casual riders (taking the front derailleur confusion away for my wife will make riding easier for her .. she still struggles a little on her road bike!). Finding the perfect cadence with two derailleurs is almost an automatic thing you do with experience and I can't see that changing for competitive road riding until we have some kind of infinite rear cassette or at least something over 14 sprockets.
I can see a front mech going bye bye for an internally geared crankset. Been done in MTB. In road bike you can already get under UCI weight limits. I could see specific builds with geared cranksets used to center the bikes weight lower while also keeping you above the legal minimum weight and still reduce retarded amounts of rotational weight in your wheels.
My recumbent Catrike Expedition is setup with a 1X12 10-52T on the rear with a 53T chainring. Since the chain is about 2 3/4 longer than a typical MTB, things have to be just so. The drive train is responsive, even with all that chain but you need the second chainring, to get enough selection for all of your cadence needs. That being said, I really like the SRAM 1X12 Eagle.
on 3:40 there is is 3 narrow teeth cause the biggest cassette is actual bigger than other cassettes and when is shifting is easier to get up to this gear (this is my opinion please don't judge and bad english)
SRAM just came out with GX eagle for the cost conscious. I have the X01 Eagle on my bike and I will never go back to a 2X. I love not having to futz with a front derailleur. If you really want to go crazy, get the grip shift. I've used grip shift since my 3X9 XO setup. The only problem I had was the width of the grips that come with the grip shift. The are too long, so I just cut me down. I mainly ride single track, and I love not having to worry about which chainring I'm in.
I am new to 1 by drivetrain, I have a Sram NX. The I am sure the others are better quality and gave smoother transitions within shifting. I do not like the chain drops from shifting and I feel very limited on higher gear. I do miss having three gears on the crank. It has the resistance I need for long rides. I have had great success on with a three drivetrain system. But I do gotta give Sram create on a durable responsive system. I believe I have my answer but I would like to hear everyone's opinion on the matter. I am possibly looking in to a GX carbon crank set with a X01 rear end.
Hi Jan. Seems clear that XTR (Shimano) is trying to dislodge the 1x12 dominance currently in circulation by Sram's push, so why would Shimano agree that Sram is right? Doesn't this support the 1x assertion? My guess is that Sram will coexist in the 2x space in the next tech dev to further the commonality discussed by practically everyone in the industry. The rear derailleur has been maxed for the 1x12 if you ask me, so the logical progression for Sram is to press on Shimano with a redesign of the 2x system. Hee... Hee... ;)
Eagle GX just came out, so maybe the next Apex. Fitting a 12 speed cassette on a conventinal Shimano 11spd freehub body is going to be tricky tho if it's even possible.
Great video. I have the XX1 1x11 from 2015 and absolutely love it... 10x42 and 34 tooth in the front. I am contemplating getting a 10x50 and moving to 12 speed but upping my front chainring to a 36.
Could you share your opinion not just about the cassette range and gears but about the extra weight of the entire cassette hanging on the rear hub vs a more conventional 11-36,11-40,11-42 system?
It just works so perfect! I do agree with you about the cadance on the XCO, but this is to live with. At XCM and stage races I easily find into a good cadance rythm.
I seriously doubt a) any weight savings from losing a front derailleur is not all added back in these ridiculous huge cogsets; b) astronomical costs for a cogset are insulting; c) holes in rear pulleys, please - zero weight savings, with the benefit of built-in dirt collecting spaces. Any and all advantages claimed may represent an evolution of improvements, but can just as well be combined with a front multi-ring system for even better total setup. Far from killing the front derailleur, it merely reduces the previous shortcomings of 1x, at considerable expense.
Instead of just being a doubter, you might google a bit and find out that the cassette weights only 360 grams. 450g for the GX one. Less than some 9 speed cassettes. You're not loosing just a derailleur. You're also getting rid of one or two chainrings, shifting lever and inner+outer cable. Holes in the rear pulleys exist precisely for the purpose of allowing the mud to get packed into them, not jam up between the pulley and cage and causing extra friction. And finally using a 2x crankset together with this would be so idiotic that if anyone would have done that, aliens would visit our planet to make a documentary about that dumbass. The range of the cassette is absolutely monstrous. It's enough for downhill descents and all-mountain technical climbs.
+1. The overall weight reduction is less than a pound in many cases. Stupid chainline, accelerated wear, ridiculously expensive parts. It's the 'new' new & improved. LOL.
Just rode a moderate ride on a rental with 1x, and case closed; perhaps weights are less an issue, but no contest regarding large gaps between gears, versus 2x or especially 3x. Ten or eleven total, over a narrower range, versus my 3x9; even if I have seven redundant gears, I still have 20 distinct options, extending both lower and high extremes. The extremes on my rental squeaked due to the extreme crossover, just like on any other system. Maxed out on high gear on a trail, much slower than had I been on pavement. Learn to shift and maintain equipment and front derailleurs still rule.
I have 1x11 on my enduro bike and the only problem is that I have a bashguard and chain guide which pushes the chainring further out so in the biggest gear the chain is really bending and back peddling cause the chain to come off.
You know what sucks? That old standards are being phased out. I want to keep my 3x10 but it is getting harder to obtain cranksets, chainrings, etc that are high performance. XT cranksets with three chainrings aren't made anymore, you are lucky to get new old stock. I also have v-brakes on a bike, good luck in getting quality pads for them.
@@soundslikeorange You can't compare bike parts to computers. A bike (not racing class) still has two wheels and goes just as fast as the rider is able to pedal. Just as it did at the beginning. Of course advancements have been made and I wouldn't use a wooden bike, but I feel that in recent years the market is pushing technology, useful or not, way to fast in its hunger for money. It has gotten to the point that if you want to keep your bike well maintained with good quality parts you almost have to completely rebuild it/buy a new one every couple of years. It is a bit wasteful.
Wait, so do the racers use 1by or 2by? If 2by was better for them, they would just use 2by. If they use 1by, it must be fine. They could also change it depending on the race, though.
This is correct. Theoretically, you don't use the big cog that much so they make them aluminum to save weight. It's a trade-off with the wear compared to the rest of the cassette, which is steel. They are operating under the assumption that riders would usually be in the steel range of the cassette and only very rarely on the steepest of climbs ever have to use the very lowest big cog.
I like the 1x drivetrains, but I have no issues with using a front derailleur especially a double. The industry will say you need a 1x drivetrain and ofcourse they would say that wouldn't they.
What needs to happen is a revolution in drivetrain tech by using a micro drivetrain with smaller teeth and chain which could allow for finer gearing and lighter components. Wonder if this will happen.
multiple smaller teeth would only spread the load further. besides there are many steels out there that can last longer. I am a knife nut and the kinds of steels used could make huge differences in how long something lasts.
Maybe you should , take a look at Pinion gear boxes , that sites under the bottom of the bike , were you find the normal bottom bracket , no rear mech only a single drive on the rear , it also removes all the unsprung mass off the rear wheel and sticks all the waight in the middle of the bike and low down . It still need more development . But it's starting to gain a following and many Specilized bikes makes are using it too.
I've been riding for the last 4 months, min 1500km with the sram eagle (yt jeffsy). I ride trails. So what do l like about it? I like how 1x's simplifiy the cockpit, I like the quality, I like the range. What don't I like? Sometime hard to find the right gear for the preferred cadence making for a lot of gear changing. I guess this problem is inherent with 1x systems...I'm not sure a different spread of gears would help 10,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32,36,42,50....would 10,13,15,18,21,24,27,31,35,39,43,50 not be better?
I'm using an older 1x11 XT drivetrain and contrary to my expectations, finding the "optimal" gear is not an issue - the range is absolutely a limiting factor. On a basic 3x you're sorted anywhere from a 30% gradient to about 55kph.
hi bro im planning about cube reaction race 2019 gx eagle set i just didnt use ever 1 by set so im just fearing about 50th tooth drop off the 2. one issue is it will happen or is it safe ass shimanos or 2 by sets?? i need help about this..
the extra weight of the massive cassette would more than offset the lack of a front derailleur and extra front chainring. wouldn't 2x be better? with say a 11-32/34/36 cassette
Hi SickBiker, I discovered what might be a design flaw in the SRAM Eagle drive-train. Because of the N/W tooth profile on the 42/50t sprockets, on certain downshifts to the 2 largest sprockets the chain can become desynchronized and ride on top of the sprocket teeth. I'm asking you because in your video at 9:14, it looks like your chain momentarily becomes unsynchronized before you shift back down. I posted my findings on MTBR and would like to hear your opinion. forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/sram-eagle-design-flaw-1052658.html Paul
Also, the please elaborate on the "..special XD system on the freehub body" that you say is there to accommodate the 10 tooth cog? I heard some mention of this as it seems to say that to have the SRAM on a Shimano or something along those lines and then I believe it said that the newer GX upgrade kits?
I have a Shimano 2X11 drive train, 24/38 front with 11-42 rear, it gives me full range and allows for proper cadencing. I rode an eagle gx with a 30t front and absolutely hated it. Couldnt find a proper gear for any part of my normal trails!
Hi I have this 1 x 12 sram I am very happy with it but I agree about the cadence it is an issue if you ride with other bikes using by 2 or by 3 you can actually see the cadence difference......! Thanks for your video
I have two bikes using 1x drivetrains I'm using the Shimano Saint 34+11-36 and the SRAM X01 36+11-50 and they are both very quiet and shift flawlessly. With the new clutch mechanism I've racked up over 150 miles on both bikes and never dropped a chain I do still own a 3x and a 2x bike but I rarely ever use them anymore I do not feel the need to when the 1x set ups is all I need weather is powering downhill off-road or flying down the road at 20-30mph so yes I would say the 3* and 2* drivechains are more redundant.
I've never dropped a chain on my GX Eagle drivetrain, but when we were riding in muddy conditions like a week ago my dad dropped his chain. He is also running GX Eagle.
I haven't hand a problem at all with my eagle except in the super sticky mud, but it was tacky enough get caught between the wheels and the crowns of the bike. And even saying that it lasted longer than I expected without dropping or miss shifting.
This is the second part of 1x12 drivetrains review.
Part 1: th-cam.com/video/Ew03wbHOHS0/w-d-xo.html
Part 2: th-cam.com/video/vTTfcHeM2jc/w-d-xo.html
Part 3: th-cam.com/video/X1jdTDPwFVc/w-d-xo.html
I think it depends mostly on rider's tastes. I personally enjoy the 1x systems so much more just because of their simplicity.
And cable clearance 🙏
When a cassette is so pricey you wear gloves touching.
Great video, man! Totally agree with you about 1x vs 2x. 1x is not for everybody. I still run 3x10! As someone who uses the same bike (MTB) for multiple purposes (performance road riding, on and off road touring [bikepacking], long distance rides, and riding singletrack), I feel that I would be limited by any of the 1x drivetrains. If the drivetrain was "optimised" for best performance in one area (example: climbing/low speed stuff), that would be at the expense of other areas (example: fast flat roads and/or downhills). Or vice-versa. I like my bike to be able to do all things reasonably well and the front derailleur helps to accomplish this. The front derailleur is definitely not dead.
I'm racing cross country and I use this drivetrain. I absolutely love it! I agree the intervals between gears are a bit big, but I don't mind too much. I just love the reliability and simplicity of it. It's good to know that the gear will allways engage and I'm not afraid to put the power down. Accelerating up to speed is a dream with this drivetrain. Maybe in marathon races I would have an issue with the cadence, but for all out XCO racing I think it's perfect 👌
3X10 shimano xt smokes my body with his 12 eagle, fast uphill and super fast on fireroads. The problem with 2 or 3X10 is that most people don't know how to use them and when to shift, if you pay attention you can hear the gears crunching as they climb, great vid cheers!
1x it's more simple and it doesn't have that many cables, 3x/2x comes with more speeds, depends on the riding type mate, there isn't one that is better or worse, it just depends
Good video. Gaps between cogs is only ~10%, which in not much and can be made up for by changing cadence or gear. Also, MTB means constantly varying terrain - very rare to get in a comfortable cadence. Need to change gear by large amounts very rapidly. narrow gear spacing means having to sweep over a lot of gears. Some of us prefer wide spacing so that we can change gear to suit terrain by sweeping only over 2-3 cogs rather than 5.
10-12 tooth shift is 20%. Not ideal.
I think most of the riders will prefer this system for XC racing, but marathons... I don't know.
Good point. I was thinking XC racing. Longer than a couple of hours and it's more about finding a steady gear and keeping in that happy place. Narrower spacing might be more suitable then.
In my opinion 2x1o still the best choice.. large range of gears to train and race, you can find the right pace and save energy.
I run 3x10(full xt) and i'm pretty happy, i dont think in change to 1x or 2x, i have all the gears i need, so no problem :D
@ 3:00 when he addresses the tooth profile and the narrow wide. It comes down to the ramping and engagement of the teeth. Its there by design. When you shift your bike, it doesn't automatically shift....not even on Di2. Yes the derailleur moves, but it doesn't shift until the chain makes contact with the ramps (shift gates). The narrow wide profile on the 50T is there to ensure the chain doesn't come off during chain growth situations where there is already a massive amount of torque on the chain.
I have 1 x 12 on my Santa Cruz and I absolutely love it. I use to ride a 3 x 7 system which I liked and it gave me great range, but I often find my self staying on the mid size cog most of the time. So far the 1 x has a gear for every situation I've been in. The 50 teeth has been great for those very steep climbs and the 10 teeth is awesome at high speeds, especially if you're on a 29er. It all comes down to personal preference, but the 1 x is here to stay.
Seems like the 1x drivetrain is the way to go for you.
Yes, I do like it's simplicity and that I can use my left hand to operate the dropper post instead of another shifter.
Totally agree with this. I changed to 1x11 using a OneUp 11-50 tooth expander kit (shimano xt m8000 groupset) and it works great. But even with the 10 tooth kit I'm about to add to it I still won't get the same range as my old 2x set up and still will have bigger jumps between gears, which isn't really a huge deal and you get used to but its always a compromise. When you're climbing brutally steep hills and riding fast on the flat then you need the range if you want to maintain a sensible cadence and ride efficiently without destroying your legs. Which is necessary for XC riding where I live (west coast norway). The XT m8000 direct mount front derailleur I had worked so damn well it was amazing. Worked every bit as well as the dura ace 9070 Di2 front derailleur on my road bike. In a year and a half if XC riding I dropped my chain once. But I've dropped it once in the year and a half since changing to 1x as well. So the only disadvantage to the 2x is a few hundred grams. But believe me, the better range and cadence and better drive train efficiency offered by 2x for XC riding will make you faster any weight savings 1x can offer.
I'm kinda committed to my1x set up though since I bought a power2max power meter when I made the conversion and I'm pretty sure it's not compatible with 2x cranks :(
Why people buy SRAM EAGLE:
20% - moving from 2x setup
10% - Improve performance of 1x11
70% - bling factor
i did it so i only have to adjust one derailer... 1x is way better for me, i enjoy it even though it's expensive
If you can't find the right cadence it is because you are doing flat trail like if you were riding road bike. Even 2x10 will not give you nice ratio. If you want to have lot of cadence option, you will need a small cassette like 11/32, not 11/42 or even 11/40 or 10-/42 . For racing, 1x11 or 1x12 is really good. For flat trail like you are doing most of the time, you should go with 2 gears in the front or why not go back with 3, 3x9 was good for the time
gruhx also 1x12 reduces weight... definitely 1 by for racing
I run 1x10 with an 11-36 cassette (same jumps as an 11spd 11-42, almost the same jumps as Eagle) on my fitness/road frankenstein bike that I only use on the road. Not a wide range of gears but it works for me. I set it up so I have easier gears, not huge top speed since gravity will do the job downhill anyways and i'm not in a hurry. This will sound weird, but I like the bigger jumps on the cassette. With a narrow range cassette and a double or triple sometimes I shift a bunch at the back and I still don't get the ratio I want, then I shift at the front and it's a HUGE jump. And on certain setups you can't even use all the gears because if you cross chain you can have issues with the chain rubbing on the chainrings or on the front derailleur. With the 11-36 10 speed I shift once and I immediately get a bigger difference, and if needed i'll just choose an easier gear and spin more.
I'm not racing, i'm not even in a hurry but since I switched to 1x i'm absolutely loving it. It's just so simple to use and looks so clean. I'm not sure if i'll ever use a front derailleur again on any kind of bike. Eagle is coming down in price pretty fast with the GX Eagle which is pretty damn good.
You're right. After checking all the options I would go for 2x drivetrain from Sram XX with 11-32T cassette.
One of the best, fair, and knowledgeable evaluations I have heard.
Back in the day, I was absolutely delighted with my first 5 speed, and I still like 5 speeds today.
I converted to a 1x10 maintained my low end and sacrificing a bit of high gearing. Works out perfectly for the trail riding I do. Haven't found a hill where it's been a problem. I can out pedal myself downhill on the road but that's a rare eventuality and downhill off road if I need to pedal at over 35km/h then something's wrong! I like the simplicity and one less thing to break. Especially now I just have a thumb free to hit my dropper lever...
I have the same setup on my Killer 26" and it's great for overall MTB riding.
The non-repetitive pattern (narrow wide) usually has to do with reverb vibration dampening = less noise, which also means stays on the cog better.
The mathematics of a ten tooth cog coupled with a single chainring compared to an 11 tooth cog and two chainrings can easily be calculated translated to gear inch (wheel diameter x chainring teeth / cog teeth). For example, 27.5 x 32 / 10 = 88 and 27.5. x 44 / 11 = 110. Clearly a two by provides for faster downhill speeds.
When you are illustrating the shifting, there is no pressure on the drivetrain whatsoever. Try shifting to the lowest gear while climbing a steep grade, will it be as smooth as you show?
I understand the desire to get rid of 3x drivetrains because of all the complexity required to shift them, but I have a custom 2x8 drivetrain with a 26t small chainring in the normal position and a 44t big chainring in the middle position. (I use a 3x crankset so the outer position is filled with a bash guard.) I have no trouble shifting from 26t to 44t as long as I use a name-brand chain, and it essentially functions as a 1x8 with an optional low-range if I ever need it. Getting the same extra-low ratios provided by my 2x8 drivetrain with only a single chainring would require HUGE sprockets on the rear wheel, which would mandate the use of aluminum sprockets to avoid an equally huge weight penalty. There is no coating available for aluminum sprockets that can make them as strong as steel sprockets.
Nice setup. I had bought a bike with an 1X 11speed drivetrain, because I fell for the hype. It is a commuter/fitness bike with a rigid fork I use for gravel and a bit MTB riding. I soon realized that 11-32 with a 42t chainring is a bit hard on steep terrain. Fortunately there was the option to install another (32t) chainring using longer chainring bolts and spacers. So now I got a 2x11 drivetrain.
I have to shift down using my foot though, because there is no mount for a front derailleur and the seattube isn't circular in shape. On the top of the hill, I stop and put the chain back onto the 42t chainring if I want to go faster than ~25mph.
Chainline is obviously way better with the 32t chainring when climbing and it is definitely faster than with the cross-chaining when I use the 42t ring.
Also got a singlespeed that really is a triple singlespeed. M771 crank with 36/32/26 at the front and 14/18/25 at the back. Works with no tensioner and I can "shift" without having to loosen the quick release of the rear wheel. (Have to get off the bike and do it by hand, of course)
I have recently converted from 2x11 to 1x11 and I think it's great and I have all the range I need to where I ride with a 32t chainring and 10-42 cassette. I can't see will ever need 1x12 especially given the cost and the fact that it's not even a one off cost as its a wearable part. The main benefits for me was saved weight combined with better looks and a cleaner cockpit
I have the older 11 speed sram nx eagle and its been over a year and the shifting is still really good and precise. No skipping of gears, no ghost shifting. In the mud it works great, in the winter slush it works great. Sram overall just makes really good drive trains. And in my opinion the sram clutch cages are better performing than shimano on and off clutch switch
For me as an enduro rider 1x11 / 1x12 is definitely the way to go. But only if you are stron enough. For people who don't cycle that often 2x10 / 2x11 would be more comfortable, especially in conditions where you have to ride long, steep climbs.
"Strong"
I'm going to do some Enduro races this season. How do you manage on high speed sections? No time loss?
+SickBiker At the beginning this was a problem form me too. I took out my 32 teeth and replaced it with an 34 teeth chain blade in the front. That's also the reason why I said that one has to be a bit stronger bc. on the uphills this 2 teeth more can get a bit harder. (but I can tell you, I think you are even better trained than me, so this shouldn't be a problem)
For orientation: ; )
I ride a 26" bike with a 11-46 cassette and 34 in the front and I can go fast in the bikepark and it's quite comfortable in going uphill , so it would be possible to take a 36 but the 34 is the best way to go for long uphill and faster descents.
+SickBiker or do you mean how to being able of riding fast and tricky terrain?
Yes, I meant the high speed sections. Aren't you running out of gears often?
1X is probably good for rolling hills where you would use front shifter on a 2X a lot and it might get annoying. But here in NorCal, most of the rides are long uphill followed by a long downhill, so really only need to shift in the front a few times per ride, and get better chain line and gear ratios without a dinner plate in the back with a 2X system. Not sold on 1X.
AMEN!
2x10 is really good. My old bike that i gave to my brother still has it, and i'm always surprised with how well it works when i use it.
I enjoy 1x on my current bike because its simpler. Even with back pedal chain jump, it has never ever been a problem on a trail. 32 x 11-40 works well for me even on very steep climbs.
I would like to upgrade to 1x12 with the following ratios for it to make sense as an upgrade with better top end speed and climbing ability:
34x 10-50.
1x is simpler in the end and definitely good enough. You cant argue with Nino's results in epic, and xco racing on it.
People are installing 14t pulley wheels in order to save a Watt or two and they are paying a lot of money for it and then we are running 10t sprockets and lose 5-10 Watts or even more there? Ludicrous. One can feel even an 11t sprocket isn't really circular and a lot of power is lost there. 10t? No effin way.
I have 1x11 Sram GX on my Farley EX fullsus fatbike and zero problems. Works just as intended, no back pedaling problems either and range is good with 10-42 casette and oval 34t absoluteblack chainring. Also no issues with mud, sand and snow. Chainline is ok with 197x12mm rear hub and 121mm bottom bracket.
I use 3x10 (XT Dyna-Sys) and use all 3 rings constantly while getting to trails, riding them, and getting home.
Riveting tale, chap. With the multi-shifting on rear shifters, you're not getting any real advantage of lugging that bigger chainring, and you're worst of both worlds by also having an extra ring on the rear. 2x10 with the proper sizes would offer you everything you need, but with less weight.
rustler08 sorry bud but 1x is lighter then 2x...
Come on, nobody is "lugging" a chainring. It comes in handy bombing hills on the way home, and I wouldn't trade it for anything.
I also have a CX and road bike, so it's not like I'm opposed to 2x... I just want it on my full sus.
Honestly, I've yet to encounter a hill that would make me want to have a higher ratio than 36/11. Maybe a really steep and really long tarmac descent, but on trails, no effing way.
when I'm "bombing" hills my chain guide does exactly what it's suppose to, wink wink.
Thorough explanation but how much is that cassette to replace??
I will stay with my 2016 XTR 11 double
I saw both of your videos as some others. For me and others I believe, the problem is situated on another level.
TH-cam users of 1x drivetrain, load their bikes on cars / pick up trucks and go to the trails.
Well, as I said, others like me, never load bikes on trucks. They just pedal on road many km to and from the trails. And that is 20-40 km.
My question is: are these 1x drivetrains efficient / fast on road like 3x or 2x, or they are just too slow?
On road with a 3x9 drivetrain many times I will use 3x8 or 3x7 or 2X9 or 2x8 gears and get between 28-35km/h with 3.1, 29er wheels. Sometimes a 45km/h is possible for 500m with some soft wind on the back and lot of pressure in the tyres, suspension locked.
Is this possible with 1x12 drivetrain or is it something that will never get you going more than 26km/h on a road with a 29er hardtail?
Thanks
I realise the same when already bought 1×12 speeds. Just sucking money from people nothing else...
@@Alex-c1n2d So what was the solution to this problem of yours? Did you spend more money to add another sprocket to the front (2x12 or 2x11)?
Like you I ride to the trails and end up doing around 15km of road riding before hitting the trails. I have a 34 tooth front ring and find myself often in 34x14 (I think). I need to count the actual numbers of the teeth. I sometimes wish I had a 36 in the front as I would like to get a little more speed.
@@GeneVilleneuve Well in the 1x12 the most common front is 32 and back in NX Eagle is 50-10, while back in Shimano is 51-10. Shimano also has a possibility of 2x12 with this XTR system. Right now I am waiting for a Cube 120 Pro stereo. If I wont be satisfied with 1x12 drivetrain I will install a 2x12 when time comes. I have asked the dealer on the possibility of the Cube 120 to get a 2x12 system and he said it is possible. I bet it is, cause last year they was selling it with 2x10 same frame. Also the 2020 Cube hardtail bikes series come with 2x12. While some other bike brands have a frame with the possibility to have only 1x12 which might be a problem. So be aware...
@@GeneVilleneuve why not run 42 or 46T front... I mean u probably have 50-11 or 52-10 gearing on the rear side. Can't see why U need granny gears that low!!!! Also 29er (2.1inch wide) is more efficient than 26inch 3"+ wide tires.
1x11 has been a fun upgrade! Going to 1x12 sounds EXTRA FUN.
I have used a 36 tooth chainring with eagle and it is so good! You can have those slow gears as well as super fast gears. When you have a 2-3x you have lots of useless gears that you never even use
Hey Biker, if by "useless gears that you never even use", you are referring to all the possible combinations of chain rings with clogs, just remember to not cross-chaining... If you have 3x9, you actually do not have 27 gears. Then, some combinations we do not use just because of habit. In a 3x7, say, depending on the no. of teeth of the cassette/free-wheel, one could be used to 2-5 and never use a 3-4 regardless of getting more or less speed or power for climbing/acceleration, just because of "being used to it".
The terms 2x and 3x are just commercial misnomers but there's no useless gear on them. It's just that each chainring is associated with a different set of cassette cogs. For example I have a 3x8 setup with 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32 on the cassette and 28-38-48 chainrings.
This setup is in fact a 12 gears system:
28 chainring goes with the 4 big cogs (21-32),
38 chainring goes with the 4 middle cogs (15-24),
48 chainring goes with the 4 small cogs (11-18).
In order to use all 12 gears I just need to shift back one gear on the cassette each time I shift chainring. It requires some training at the start to get used to it but it's really simple when you have the habit.
I made the calculations and the gear range and stepping is pretty close to this Eagle XX1 mounted with a 44 chainring. Except that the largest Eagle chainring is 38 so I would lose on top speed in exchange for easier uphills that I don't need.
The second reason why I would never buy this is that the 50t cog is way too big and reintroduces the chain and derailleur position issues that the 2x and 3x systems were created to solve.
I think 1x systems are fine as long as the cassette doesn't exceed a 10-44.
If they want to put more cogs in it they should work on reducing gaps between gears in that range and keep the cog size under control.
Going for huge cogs to satisfy both steep uphills and high top speed on the same chainring is the one bad idea that the front derailleur solves: your chain and derailleur are getting closer to the ground, increasing the risk of hitting something in a turn.
I think the right move to increase the gear range with a single chainring would be to either work on improving internal gear hubs or find a completely different derailleur system that doesn't depend on a rotating arm which comes close to the ground on some gears.
Even on the road if you're not at all performance orientated I think the range and jumps on the 1x is perfect. As a non-performance rider I was constantly shifting multiple gears on the 2x, and lots of unusable range with the 16T chainring differential.
I'm loving my new 1x conversion, love the feeling and simplicity of not having that front deraileur with the extra chainring and having the larger jumps.
Not biased though. As an ex club A-grader (road) I obviously wouldn't consider 1x for that. The closer towards your personal threshold you get, the more valuable it usually becomes to have smaller jumps, as well as the range that only a 2x can give you. I can certainly imagine that for competitive mtb marathons where you have longer straighter more constant sections you'd probably want 2x there too, particularly at the higher levels of competition where they're performing closer towards their personal threshold for longer.
But when you're not riding competitively, you don't need to worry about a small drop in speed to maintain a good cadence, as you don't need to keep near your threshold to be competitive. Performance training is different too, there are many who don't race but still train hard and would benefit from the 2x.
I think with 1x, the only way a front deraileur can be dead is if they can somehow create something like a fully-functioning 20-tooth cassette. That will probably happen somewhere down the road, if I had that option as a road racer I'd take it over the 2x. Why not, the 2x has overlapping range which creates redundancy and inefficiency, as well as the added complexity of manually managing an extra system in the form of a front deraileur for those using mechanical shifting? I haven't much experience with the 1x, but I imagine in competition the 1x would be quicker shifting than shifting two deraileurs together. Can't say "no" to easier shifting!
Great input. Got new bike with 2x11, home made it to 1x11 but ... was missing low gear, high gear, chain crossing was an issue, but biggest issue was big steps between the gear jumps and I was not able to find the ideal gear. Either I was going to slow or too fast, was hard or impossible to find sweet spot gear / cadence on 1x11
Now I`m back on 2x11
the rear cassettes are usually different between 1x and 2x that might be your gap issue between gears not feeling right, also all good if your style of riding allows you to run a front derailleur, but riding has gotten so hardcore lately with enduro descents nearly as knar as downhill courses and the need to pedal to the top of them a 1x is the only way to go, if they can climb with a heavier bike on 1x no worries I am not sure it's a cadence issue also the 1x allows the use of chain guide system which is needed in terrain like this, simply put a front derailleur will not cut it for certain riding.
Agree about the jumps between gears, I'd like to see a 10-42 (or 11-42) with 12 cogs to make the jumps smaller (especially in the higher gears - going from 10 to 12 teeth, a 20% change I find quite unpleasant).
Difference between 10 and 11 cogs - 110%. Difference between 46 and 50 cogs: 108,7%. My point being that this system in comparison with Shimano's doesn't offer a "much lower" climbing gear and a "bit higher" top gear. They are both heavier and lighter by approximately the same degree. The 10t cog really makes a difference in comparison with 11. A 10-42 also has the same range as an 11-46.
The black gloves make it look very serious
Hey man, curious question. You're always saying that the 2x system is best for xc/marathon racing, yet the bikes that you do xc/marathon racing on are usually equipped with a 1x system. Why is that so?
abdul a I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST ME THINKING THAT!!! WHY?????
I thinks the manufacturers are really pushing 1x systems, which are really good, but not the best for all purposes. My FSI and Ninety-Six are both 2x compatible.
SickBiker Thanks for the reply! :)
Any particular reason that you don't convert to a 2x system?
it's all about money... These systems pays more and wears faster! Users automaticaly are good customers for spares producers and sellers... 😎 Everything else is an art of marketing with a little piece of truth.
I use 3x10 since 3Years and its great. Can't Imagine buying something other
great video with just positive info and no hate or bashing on anything or anyone... original for the internet.
I don't do bashing on my channel. Thanks for noticing, because some think, that the truth means hate speech.
One thing for sure, it looks damn awesome, but a agree with you : 2x really allows you to find the right cadence and to get the optimal speed ! And im very far from being into competition... Still you didnt say if there is a difference between riding with an 11t cog and a 10t cog... does this litle difference really makes you faster ?
with 32-10 you go 38.8 km/h at 90 rpm with 32-11 you go 35,2 km/h on a 650B wheel...i calculated it at ritzelrechner.de
Hum, didnt think that'd make such a difference... Now for where i ride, i both need my 30t and my 40t (yes 40 is extreme)... Take one of those off my bike and i clealry wont have as many fun !
1 tooth on an 10 or 11T is not a small difference, it's all relative to the size of the cog. Think of the difference in percentage and it will make sense.
On a 40T front chainring for example of course a one tooth difference will barely do anything but when there is only 11 teeth and you loose one it is a big difference.
WoD STALKER I
i agree with the fact that one by is not for CX riders, they need the range of their rewuired cadence... but in tracks where you need the range, but cannot afford the soace underneath(rocky conditions)(namely rocky enduro), one by would be amazing. however, then the problem is the hanging rear dereilleur. They become super susceptible to rocks smashing them. This is where I like gear boxes! that's is right, those heavy clunks which require the oedalling to be stopped before you shift. However, it has its own disadvantages and I am getting to lazy to type rn.
This drive train seems amazing. One issue. It costs more than my entire bike
Even the colour is golden :)
$3000 bike with a $1500 drive train, is it a $1500 bike? Confusion
@@brandoncostner7437 He doesn't have XX1 eagle
Same here🤣 my bike costs ₹25000 with all accessories and helmet included.. and the SRAM Eagle set costs ₹27000🤣🤣
Ais… the hate against 1x drivetrains for XC. To be honest, the jump between gears on any mountainbike cassette is “big” and uncomfortable. You won’t solve the problem by having two/three chainrings. If you are so worried about it, use a road bike cassette in the rear and go 3x.
For me, I don’t have time to find my perfect cadence in a race, I’m too busy having fun and riding without having to worry about dropped chains or keeping that chain line in check.
On your Iceland trip, you were riding mostly flat sections with a 32 front chain ring (meant for lower strength riders or used in real climbing area’s) forcing you to be in high end of the cassette range where yes, the jumps are big. Try using 36/38 or higher and your cadence issues should be mostly solved.
Yes, the Icelandic race could be easily ridden on 36T chainring in the front, but I'm preparing myself to XC races and 1x doesn't feel the best there to me.
About gearing difference, have you tried bigger chainrings? I ride a 1x11 setup and I feel more difference between gears on my 32t than on 34t.
Believe me you don't need it , 2x11 slx will do just fine . 11x46
Just as you said, something like 1x12 with 10-40 cassette (if you're willing to climb those steepest hills on foot) would almost certainly solve your problem with cadence in xc racing because the cadence "steps" between gears would be obviously smaller so it would be easier to find that sweet spot. Plus it would be lighter. That would be the perfect drivetrain for you, or just wait till Sram reinvents it again and introduces 1x13 ;)
I have a sram X0 3x10 and i love It!
Maybe i can upgrade to a 2x10 but 1x12 fell to me like a marketing thing to sell more stuff.
Ps: i still have a 8kg carbon fiber 26", no sense to me to skip to a 29"
Nice job on the video! I have two Santa Cruz Highball's that I ride regularly. One is built with SRAM XO1 1x11 and the other has Shimano XT 2x10. There are a few other small differences between the two bikes beyond that that aren't worth mentioning. Both have their strengths and weaknesses, but I find that I tend to gravitate towards riding the SRAM equipped bike a bit more. Maybe I'm imagining it, but the kilo or so difference in weight between the two bikes is noticeable to me when it comes to how the bikes handle & climb. I understand your point about gear spacing on a 2x10 vs a 1x11/12, but at the same time I find that a lot of the gears on a double chainring setup just wind up being redundant. Since I do not have the Eagle 1x12, I do have to admit that I appreciate the wider gear range that the 2x10 provides, particularly on long, steep climbs, but conversely I don't see a lot of value in the really tall gears on the dirt...I'm generally not pedalling that much on fast descents. Your comments on the "quietness" of the Eagle drivetrain caught my attention. The XT 2x10 drivetrain is a definitely quieter than the SRAM 1x11 and this has been one of my main complaints with the 1x11. The other complaint being that I bent the big cog on my first cassette in two places and had to replace it (which wasn't cheap.) In favor of my 1x11 bike, eliminating the front derailleur makes the bike easier to clean, and it is one less thing to tune / tweak.
For me, it's a tough call between the two approaches, but in the future I'd really like to have a bike with the Eagle 1x12, and it's probably what I'd buy now if I was getting another bike. That being said, I got an amazing deal on the XT 2x10 bike (year end closeout) - it was over 1/3 less expensive than what I paid for the 1x11 equipped bike. No 1x11's were to be found at that low price ;-)
Dave Cech you can get 1×12 in the near future. Check out eagle gx. Thank me later.
Thx for your detailed analysis in both parts 1 & 2 videos. It's much appreciated.
I agree with you on the 2X system. Lower wear larger range.
This is only a guess, but I would think the shaped teeth on the chain ring is to allow the large chain line angle from chain ring to cassette. Drivechain wear is also going to be excessive due to the large chain line angle. Two by gives a greater ratio choice, less wear and only a small amount of weight gained. For 99% of riders it's the best choice. Also it costs over 1000 euro....!
I'm not gonna start defending either 1x or 2x I don't want to start arguing. It's just one thing, on my 1x11 setup I haven't noticed any premature wear. I've heard it a bunch and I know everyone is always told if they cross chain on a 2-3x setup their bike will explode, but really I didn't experience any excess wear at all.
I accept that point, but the teeth are machined to REDUCE the wear on the sprockets due to the wide chain line angle. I guess wear isn't such an issue. But ratio choice is an issue, as well as cost. Not many riders (only the elite) would benefit from the weight saving of 1X. It must be less than 500 grams (Front shifter/Derailleur) 1000 Euro to remove 500 grams is a lot of cash. It would be easier (and cheaper) to drop a few pounds from the rider :)
Again, i'm not going to go into any of that stuff. :) I just tought I would share my experience about the wear. I'm on "plain old" 1x11, not Eagle.
GX Eagle just came out btw.
Fair comment :)
2 by or 3 sound better depends on how 10,11,12.the one by still not feeling it. I like to have options.. I'm going to see what it would be like with a 3 by 12, this is more options.
SRAM said front derailers have died because they were not able to produce a single decent derailer in last 30 years.
Really good technical vid, showing how Sram have engineered the product to achieve a reliable product.
I do like the one times and have it on one of my roadbikes i restored, due to its design the front derailleur was unreliable, the one time cured this problem by removing the part. The other advantage is it can be cheaper as you only need one derailleur, this could really save some coin with electronic groupsets.
BUT it does limit you if you have big terrain differences, especially on a road bike, but for general undulating terrain it is simple and easy to use, especially for people starting up cycling.
One thing you forgot to mention is the smaller the rear cassette, the less efficient it is. 10t gives very little chain grip, it will be interesting if this is copied by the other brands and filters to roadbikes to expand the full gear percentage.
I have had a 1x10 deore on my hardtail and now have a 1x12 deore xt with my new bike. Never had an issue with either and I totally agree that for mountainbiking 2x/3x are dead.
yes I agree I have 36t! and 51 and its better than 26,32,42tx36
I disagree. The jumps between gears are way too big for my taste on those humongous cassettes. I refuse to use anything bigger than the 11-32 cassette from Shimano, so I obviously need a second chainring. Had a 1x on my bike for a year and it sucked, chainline is so bad when climbing, I'm much faster with a 2x.
I'm using 10 speed SLX clutch derailleur with goat link and Sunrace 11-42 plus XT shifters and Race Face 32 front. Shifts great and no dropped chains unlike my sram drive trains could run a 11-46 but don't need it. SRAM is alright but my dream bike would have Shimano.
For trail riding, I would like a 40 tooth up front to get more top end out of it. 40:50 would be fine for me at the bottom.
the shifting part is really
satisfying to watch
Such an excellent presentation!
Thank you for your professionalism and straightforwardness.
i have the same bike, great. ok but your right, double chainsets are not dead.of the subject have you had any broblems with the duel lockout.
Thanks for this review. For a little while there I was thinking you were about to drag out that old chestnut of chain line .. glad you didn't ;) For me 2x (and 3x) is certainly dying in many applications and I'd probably say that it's history for the majority of casual riders (taking the front derailleur confusion away for my wife will make riding easier for her .. she still struggles a little on her road bike!). Finding the perfect cadence with two derailleurs is almost an automatic thing you do with experience and I can't see that changing for competitive road riding until we have some kind of infinite rear cassette or at least something over 14 sprockets.
Yes I think a 14 speed 1x would do it, as from what I can see a mtb 2x has 14 unique gears.
I can see a front mech going bye bye for an internally geared crankset. Been done in MTB.
In road bike you can already get under UCI weight limits. I could see specific builds with geared cranksets used to center the bikes weight lower while also keeping you above the legal minimum weight and still reduce retarded amounts of rotational weight in your wheels.
got my XT drivetrain for the price of an eagle cassette. I MUST BE CRAZY !!!!!
This is the best advanced 12 speed cassette on the market. The one piece machining of the 10-42T cogs is manufacturing masterpiece.
My recumbent Catrike Expedition is setup with a 1X12 10-52T on the rear with a 53T chainring. Since the chain is about 2 3/4 longer than a typical MTB, things have to be just so. The drive train is responsive, even with all that chain but you need the second chainring, to get enough selection for all of your cadence needs. That being said, I really like the SRAM 1X12 Eagle.
on 3:40 there is is 3 narrow teeth cause the biggest cassette is actual bigger than other cassettes and when is shifting is easier to get up to this gear (this is my opinion please don't judge and bad english)
SRAM just came out with GX eagle for the cost conscious. I have the X01 Eagle on my bike and I will never go back to a 2X. I love not having to futz with a front derailleur. If you really want to go crazy, get the grip shift. I've used grip shift since my 3X9 XO setup. The only problem I had was the width of the grips that come with the grip shift. The are too long, so I just cut me down. I mainly ride single track, and I love not having to worry about which chainring I'm in.
świetny materiał, zazdroszczę, że miałeś szansę testować ten napęd. pozdrawiam!
I am new to 1 by drivetrain, I have a Sram NX. The I am sure the others are better quality and gave smoother transitions within shifting. I do not like the chain drops from shifting and I feel very limited on higher gear. I do miss having three gears on the crank. It has the resistance I need for long rides. I have had great success on with a three drivetrain system. But I do gotta give Sram create on a durable responsive system. I believe I have my answer but I would like to hear everyone's opinion on the matter. I am possibly looking in to a GX carbon crank set with a X01 rear end.
For racing this big range is not needed. I want a 12 speed 11-50 casssette. Maybe the next XTR?
Hi Jan. Seems clear that XTR (Shimano) is trying to dislodge the 1x12 dominance currently in circulation by Sram's push, so why would Shimano agree that Sram is right? Doesn't this support the 1x assertion? My guess is that Sram will coexist in the 2x space in the next tech dev to further the commonality discussed by practically everyone in the industry. The rear derailleur has been maxed for the 1x12 if you ask me, so the logical progression for Sram is to press on Shimano with a redesign of the 2x system. Hee... Hee... ;)
Eagle GX just came out, so maybe the next Apex. Fitting a 12 speed cassette on a conventinal Shimano 11spd freehub body is going to be tricky tho if it's even possible.
Great video. I have the XX1 1x11 from 2015 and absolutely love it... 10x42 and 34 tooth in the front. I am contemplating getting a 10x50 and moving to 12 speed but upping my front chainring to a 36.
Hello from Ukraine, always like good english, pretty clear!
As for me 2*10 it`s enough (11-36 * 24-38) for my scott genius 940.
i run sram eagle and use a 36 chain ring got lots of go juice in the 10 tooth and its just like a 10 x 42 now just 1 more gear
Could you share your opinion not just about the cassette range and gears but about the extra weight of the entire cassette hanging on the rear hub vs a more conventional 11-36,11-40,11-42 system?
It just works so perfect! I do agree with you about the cadance on the XCO, but this is to live with. At XCM and stage races I easily find into a good cadance rythm.
Dude you're the man. Such a great detailed channel.
i like 2x10 very much, you should talk about mantaince cost of 1x12 😉 . nice video.
I seriously doubt a) any weight savings from losing a front derailleur is not all added back in these ridiculous huge cogsets; b) astronomical costs for a cogset are insulting; c) holes in rear pulleys, please - zero weight savings, with the benefit of built-in dirt collecting spaces. Any and all advantages claimed may represent an evolution of improvements, but can just as well be combined with a front multi-ring system for even better total setup. Far from killing the front derailleur, it merely reduces the previous shortcomings of 1x, at considerable expense.
Instead of just being a doubter, you might google a bit and find out that the cassette weights only 360 grams. 450g for the GX one. Less than some 9 speed cassettes. You're not loosing just a derailleur. You're also getting rid of one or two chainrings, shifting lever and inner+outer cable.
Holes in the rear pulleys exist precisely for the purpose of allowing the mud to get packed into them, not jam up between the pulley and cage and causing extra friction.
And finally using a 2x crankset together with this would be so idiotic that if anyone would have done that, aliens would visit our planet to make a documentary about that dumbass. The range of the cassette is absolutely monstrous. It's enough for downhill descents and all-mountain technical climbs.
+1. The overall weight reduction is less than a pound in many cases. Stupid chainline, accelerated wear, ridiculously expensive parts. It's the 'new' new & improved. LOL.
Just rode a moderate ride on a rental with 1x, and case closed; perhaps weights are less an issue, but no contest regarding large gaps between gears, versus 2x or especially 3x. Ten or eleven total, over a narrower range, versus my 3x9; even if I have seven redundant gears, I still have 20 distinct options, extending both lower and high extremes. The extremes on my rental squeaked due to the extreme crossover, just like on any other system. Maxed out on high gear on a trail, much slower than had I been on pavement. Learn to shift and maintain equipment and front derailleurs still rule.
I have 1x11 on my enduro bike and the only problem is that I have a bashguard and chain guide which pushes the chainring further out so in the biggest gear the chain is really bending and back peddling cause the chain to come off.
switch over to ISCG mounted guide bro. Keeps the distance between the bottom bracket and chainring flush
You know what sucks? That old standards are being phased out. I want to keep my 3x10 but it is getting harder to obtain cranksets, chainrings, etc that are high performance. XT cranksets with three chainrings aren't made anymore, you are lucky to get new old stock. I also have v-brakes on a bike, good luck in getting quality pads for them.
Same, but I get everything off ebay easy
Uhhhh dude... Kool stop pads
Imagine all the people still trying to run Commodore 64 computers and Motorola Razor phones!
@@soundslikeorange You can't compare bike parts to computers. A bike (not racing class) still has two wheels and goes just as fast as the rider is able to pedal. Just as it did at the beginning. Of course advancements have been made and I wouldn't use a wooden bike, but I feel that in recent years the market is pushing technology, useful or not, way to fast in its hunger for money. It has gotten to the point that if you want to keep your bike well maintained with good quality parts you almost have to completely rebuild it/buy a new one every couple of years. It is a bit wasteful.
Depends go get bmx race pads for v brakes. Depending on your v brake if it can take 990 post style pads then just buy bmx pads.
i like when you say "i disagree with that". how likely is that I can shift on load with that one?
Wait, so do the racers use 1by or 2by? If 2by was better for them, they would just use 2by. If they use 1by, it must be fine. They could also change it depending on the race, though.
I don't like the big black sprocket because it looks worn out very quickly. Why not make it gold ?
Dawn Moon I think they're made of different material. They're probably anodized Al alloy rather than harder materials such as coated steel.
Dawn Moon I think they're made of different material. They're probably anodized Al alloy rather than harder materials such as coated steel.
This is correct. Theoretically, you don't use the big cog that much so they make them aluminum to save weight. It's a trade-off with the wear compared to the rest of the cassette, which is steel. They are operating under the assumption that riders would usually be in the steel range of the cassette and only very rarely on the steepest of climbs ever have to use the very lowest big cog.
I like the 1x drivetrains, but I have no issues with using a front derailleur especially a double. The industry will say you need a 1x drivetrain and ofcourse they would say that wouldn't they.
What needs to happen is a revolution in drivetrain tech by using a micro drivetrain with smaller teeth and chain which could allow for finer gearing and lighter components. Wonder if this will happen.
These teeth aren't very long-lasting already, do you want people to change drivetrain 2-3 times a season?
multiple smaller teeth would only spread the load further. besides there are many steels out there that can last longer. I am a knife nut and the kinds of steels used could make huge differences in how long something lasts.
Maybe you should , take a look at Pinion gear boxes , that sites under the bottom of the bike , were you find the normal bottom bracket , no rear mech only a single drive on the rear , it also removes all the unsprung mass off the rear wheel and sticks all the waight in the middle of the bike and low down . It still need more development . But it's starting to gain a following and many Specilized bikes makes are using it too.
yep....I have shares in sram and shimano.
I've been riding for the last 4 months, min 1500km with the sram eagle (yt jeffsy). I ride trails. So what do l like about it? I like how 1x's simplifiy the cockpit, I like the quality, I like the range. What don't I like? Sometime hard to find the right gear for the preferred cadence making for a lot of gear changing. I guess this problem is inherent with 1x systems...I'm not sure a different spread of gears would help 10,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32,36,42,50....would 10,13,15,18,21,24,27,31,35,39,43,50 not be better?
I'm using an older 1x11 XT drivetrain and contrary to my expectations, finding the "optimal" gear is not an issue - the range is absolutely a limiting factor. On a basic 3x you're sorted anywhere from a 30% gradient to about 55kph.
I have a 2016 Focus Raven max SL and XTR double and I will keep it that way
hi bro im planning about cube reaction race 2019 gx eagle set i just didnt use ever 1 by set so im just fearing about 50th tooth drop off the 2. one issue is it will happen or is it safe ass shimanos or 2 by sets?? i need help about this..
Enduroadance I have the GX, chain has never fallen off, in snow or extreme mud. No problem at all.
@@mrnobody9821 thnx alot for info bro
I haven't seen a chainstay protector that hugs around the gear cable like that. Does it have a specific name?
the extra weight of the massive cassette would more than offset the lack of a front derailleur and extra front chainring. wouldn't 2x be better? with say a 11-32/34/36 cassette
Hi SickBiker, I discovered what might be a design flaw in the SRAM Eagle drive-train. Because of the N/W tooth profile on the 42/50t sprockets, on certain downshifts to the 2 largest sprockets the chain can become desynchronized and ride on top of the sprocket teeth. I'm asking you because in your video at 9:14, it looks like your chain momentarily becomes unsynchronized before you shift back down. I posted my findings on MTBR and would like to hear your opinion.
forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/sram-eagle-design-flaw-1052658.html
Paul
Also, the please elaborate on the "..special XD system on the freehub body" that you say is there to accommodate the 10 tooth cog? I heard some mention of this as it seems to say that to have the SRAM on a Shimano or something along those lines and then I believe it said that the newer GX upgrade kits?
And it always shifts perfectly on the biggest cog? Wide links on wide teeth?
I thought about that too. Suppose that's why they made the weird N/W sequence.
I have a Shimano 2X11 drive train, 24/38 front with 11-42 rear, it gives me full range and allows for proper cadencing. I rode an eagle gx with a 30t front and absolutely hated it. Couldnt find a proper gear for any part of my normal trails!
that's why you run a 34 on the front...
Not a single one? xd
Try 11-40 cassete. It has eaven smaller jumps between gears. Lighter casette, range is enought.
Hi I have this 1 x 12 sram I am very happy with it but I agree about the cadence it is an issue if you ride with other bikes using by 2 or by 3 you can actually see the cadence difference......! Thanks for your video
I have two bikes using 1x drivetrains I'm using the Shimano Saint 34+11-36 and the SRAM X01 36+11-50 and they are both very quiet and shift flawlessly. With the new clutch mechanism I've racked up over 150 miles on both bikes and never dropped a chain I do still own a 3x and a 2x bike but I rarely ever use them anymore I do not feel the need to when the 1x set ups is all I need weather is powering downhill off-road or flying down the road at 20-30mph so yes I would say the 3* and 2* drivechains are more redundant.
I love Eagle technology and the new XTR too. For my high performance needs - 2x11 or 2x12.
I've never dropped a chain on my GX Eagle drivetrain, but when we were riding in muddy conditions like a week ago my dad dropped his chain. He is also running GX Eagle.
I'm still fond of 3x10 drive trains. But my new build is going to be a 2x11.
I haven't hand a problem at all with my eagle except in the super sticky mud, but it was tacky enough get caught between the wheels and the crowns of the bike. And even saying that it lasted longer than I expected without dropping or miss shifting.
I run the GX on my bike and for the price vs weight loss of a X01 or XX1 I’d rather just eat less and burn some fat. They work the same.
And don't forget to poo before you ride, that can reduce 500-700 grams, depends on your last meal
I have a Sunrace 11-50T rear cassette, I want to get GX Eagle at some point but I'm not in a rush.
Hi SB, can you please show if the RD is flexing too much when at the highest and lowest cog