after 25 years of working with all forms of refractory I never thought I wanted to see the stuff again . but after 20 years of retirement I am looking forward to see how you do it. good luck.
I've said this many times but it's important: when you fit a speed control to any shop motor consider fitting an additional, fixed speed fan to the motor. The fan in the motor has been optimised for the 50 (UK/EU) or 60Hz the motor is expected to run at and will not provide sufficient cooling if you plan on running the motor at lower speeds. In addition, make sure that you put the inverter away from any dust. The power electronics are often air cooled and don't like to be cooked. When I install these I often build an industrial spec control panel and use a ten turn potentiometer for the speed control to give finer adjustment.
I'm following the furnace build because I want to make a new one for my aluminum, brass & copper casting. My current furnace doesn't have enough insulation. Good idea on putting the VFD on the spindle sander. As the diameter of the spindles are changed out the surface speeds change a lot. The 4" diameter on will start to whip if turned too fast. The half inch one will take too long to sand anything if turned too slow.
I’ve been watching Steve since he started his channel, he would have loved working with you. He’s a busy guy, I’m about the same age as him and he inspires me to get off my arse and back in the shop. It looks a dangerous job you do at the foundry. Not for the faint hearted. Thanks for sharing and regards from across the pond.
you can completely replace that control box and just use the VFD. I used the same kind of VFD on my simpson muller and it works so well on standard 220v power instead of three phase. can adjust the speed of mulling and do slow startups or slow it down when emptying the mixing bin
The inverter is also referred to as a VFD, Variable Frequency Drive. You can have a switch between mains and the VFD to apply or disconnect power to the VFD, but you should not have a switch between the VFD and the motor. The VFD does the function of starting and stopping the motor, typically set to a soft start and soft stop. You should be able to configure how many seconds to start the motor and a different value for the number of seconds to stop the motor. I have a VFD and 3 phase motor on my small milling machine. It looks like the VFD has a rotary switch on the front. This is likely default configuration to change the frequency. It may be able to be configured to change other functions. I have mine with the default configuration for frequency. The VFD should also be able to be configured to set the minimum frequency, e.g., 10Hz and the maximum frequency, e.g., 90Hz. It sounds like you desire slower speed more than higher speed, which makes sense. Too much heat on the drum and resins from the wood can clog up the abrasive. Have you considered a 3D printed core for the furnace? This is an easy CAD design. It will take some hours to print, but that is common, but it is just machine time. I am happy to volunteer to design and print one for you if you want to try this. I just need the dimensions. My printer can do max of 12in x 12in x 14in. Dave.
Hi Clark, Consider this - after you’ve punched those little bitty Start and Stop buttons a couple of thousand times and one stops working, how do you fix it? It’s better to make a remote Start/Stop station using your favorite brand of industrial momentary push buttons that you can refurbish the contacts on. The instructions will show you how to wire this - it’s easy.
In addition to what Mr. Coleman suggests, I believe the box shown at 18:50, the original start/stop won't be what you want, as it likely (through mechanical internal linkage) automatically clears the stop switch and stop condition when you press the start switch. It's possible this could work, but you might have something a little janky, like having to double tap the start button (once to clear the stop condtion and again to initiate a start signal to the vfd once the stop condition has been cleared.) You'll likely want a stop switch that you can separately clear the stop condition on plus a momentary start switch. This should integrate more easily and safely with your VFD. Bonus is that you could easily add more stop switches surrounding the machine and work on it from any position around the machine and have a stop switch handy from any point.
I have a friend who is an electrician. He told me that VFD’s will make a motor run much hotter. New motors are often marked VFD rated, they have a higher temperature insulation on the windings. Just be aware of that and watch your motor temperature. Some people will poo poo this but I trust my friend.
If you spin a motor slower the internal fan does not move as much cooling air through. VFD's don't have the problems of voltage speed controls, where lower voltage means more amperage (and heat) fed into the windings.
If its a variable speed drive you don't use the original control switches! You can wire remote switches from the VFD, but you should never break the circuit between the VFD and the motor! Have you looked at EnglesCoachshop youtube channel? All the best, Matthew
I used a 10 foot Ethernet cable on the display to put the controller on my machine. I put the controller on a outlet box on to the machine for a pace to mount it.
Check the ratings on the inverter and the switch, as long as the new one can handle at least the same current as the one being replaced you should be all set
4:11 how long does that take to cool down? Quite a while I guess, something to do with specific heat capacity, which is some mind boggling physics stuff! Thank you for sharing, Clarke I wish you and your folks a merry christmas holiday!
To me I prefer a belt and suspender. Mechanical is pure and electronic or electric relies on electrons... and not breaking electronically. I say both. Have the Mechanical as safety.
He's having a "procedure"... he said nothing serious, just a few weeks of restrictions on heavy work as he recovers. I have an idea what it may be as I have just done the same thing, but I won't speculate.
Thanks for having me and helping me Clark! And it was Don's Fault :)
after 25 years of working with all forms of refractory I never thought I wanted to see the stuff again . but after 20 years of retirement I am looking forward to see how you do it. good luck.
I would think a furnace built from firebrick would be cheaper to maintain in the long run but would definitely be something not as easy to move.
I've said this many times but it's important: when you fit a speed control to any shop motor consider fitting an additional, fixed speed fan to the motor. The fan in the motor has been optimised for the 50 (UK/EU) or 60Hz the motor is expected to run at and will not provide sufficient cooling if you plan on running the motor at lower speeds. In addition, make sure that you put the inverter away from any dust. The power electronics are often air cooled and don't like to be cooked.
When I install these I often build an industrial spec control panel and use a ten turn potentiometer for the speed control to give finer adjustment.
Keith shows off a great example of how to make proper pattern's.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the point. Steve, you have a new subscriber. 👍
Thanks
Wow, it must be "Smelting Saturday"... Mr Pete just posted an iron pour in Peoria.
The "Man I hope he didn't put 3 different size Torx screws in it" had me rolling! Could you imagine that would be a total dick move. 🤣😆🤣 👍👍
I'm following the furnace build because I want to make a new one for my aluminum, brass & copper casting. My current furnace doesn't have enough insulation. Good idea on putting the VFD on the spindle sander. As the diameter of the spindles are changed out the surface speeds change a lot. The 4" diameter on will start to whip if turned too fast. The half inch one will take too long to sand anything if turned too slow.
Lookin good! Enjoyed watching, thanks.
Good video
☹🇬🇧
I’ve been watching Steve since he started his channel, he would have loved working with you. He’s a busy guy, I’m about the same age as him and he inspires me to get off my arse and back in the shop. It looks a dangerous job you do at the foundry. Not for the faint hearted. Thanks for sharing and regards from across the pond.
I had a ball over there :)
you can completely replace that control box and just use the VFD. I used the same kind of VFD on my simpson muller and it works so well on standard 220v power instead of three phase. can adjust the speed of mulling and do slow startups or slow it down when emptying the mixing bin
The inverter is also referred to as a VFD, Variable Frequency Drive. You can have a switch between mains and the VFD to apply or disconnect power to the VFD, but you should not have a switch between the VFD and the motor. The VFD does the function of starting and stopping the motor, typically set to a soft start and soft stop. You should be able to configure how many seconds to start the motor and a different value for the number of seconds to stop the motor. I have a VFD and 3 phase motor on my small milling machine. It looks like the VFD has a rotary switch on the front. This is likely default configuration to change the frequency. It may be able to be configured to change other functions. I have mine with the default configuration for frequency. The VFD should also be able to be configured to set the minimum frequency, e.g., 10Hz and the maximum frequency, e.g., 90Hz. It sounds like you desire slower speed more than higher speed, which makes sense. Too much heat on the drum and resins from the wood can clog up the abrasive.
Have you considered a 3D printed core for the furnace? This is an easy CAD design. It will take some hours to print, but that is common, but it is just machine time. I am happy to volunteer to design and print one for you if you want to try this. I just need the dimensions. My printer can do max of 12in x 12in x 14in.
Dave.
Well Done guys!
Thanks.. It was a long 2 days, Clark is too modest!
Hi Clark,
Consider this - after you’ve punched those little bitty Start and Stop buttons a couple of thousand times and one stops working, how do you fix it?
It’s better to make a remote Start/Stop station using your favorite brand of industrial momentary push buttons that you can refurbish the contacts on.
The instructions will show you how to wire this - it’s easy.
In addition to what Mr. Coleman suggests, I believe the box shown at 18:50, the original start/stop won't be what you want, as it likely (through mechanical internal linkage) automatically clears the stop switch and stop condition when you press the start switch. It's possible this could work, but you might have something a little janky, like having to double tap the start button (once to clear the stop condtion and again to initiate a start signal to the vfd once the stop condition has been cleared.) You'll likely want a stop switch that you can separately clear the stop condition on plus a momentary start switch. This should integrate more easily and safely with your VFD. Bonus is that you could easily add more stop switches surrounding the machine and work on it from any position around the machine and have a stop switch handy from any point.
The big on/off switch on that sander makes a good safety, always nice to have a disconnect type switch on anything that has electronic controls.
I have a friend who is an electrician. He told me that VFD’s will make a motor run much hotter. New motors are often marked VFD rated, they have a higher temperature insulation on the windings. Just be aware of that and watch your motor temperature. Some people will poo poo this but I trust my friend.
If you spin a motor slower the internal fan does not move as much cooling air through.
VFD's don't have the problems of voltage speed controls, where lower voltage means more amperage (and heat) fed into the windings.
I don't know much about inverters and three-phase, but I can't help thinking that the more stop buttons you have near a machine the better.
Thanks again Clark👍 lf l might ask is Keith sick or something ?
If its a variable speed drive you don't use the original control switches! You can wire remote switches from the VFD, but you should never break the circuit between the VFD and the motor! Have you looked at EnglesCoachshop youtube channel? All the best, Matthew
Do you add alloy - copper -mag or anything else to your ladles ?
I used a 10 foot Ethernet cable on the display to put the controller on my machine. I put the controller on a outlet box on to the machine for a pace to mount it.
Check the ratings on the inverter and the switch, as long as the new one can handle at least the same current as the one being replaced you should be all set
I would leave the switch box in place at least for the fact to provide a local isolation point for the inverter!
4:11 how long does that take to cool down? Quite a while I guess, something to do with specific heat capacity, which is some mind boggling physics stuff! Thank you for sharing, Clarke I wish you and your folks a merry christmas holiday!
999 likes.! Someone please help, be # 1,000.?.?
Dumb question-
Why doesn’t the crucible melt or burn up
That was definitely not my fault. That was all Steves Fault! Lol 😂
Nope....
To me I prefer a belt and suspender. Mechanical is pure and electronic or electric relies on electrons... and not breaking electronically. I say both. Have the Mechanical as safety.
Do You have a link to Steve?
Try searching "Steve Watkins" ...
Steve Watkins at work
www.youtube.com/@10swatkins/featured
What happened to Keith?
He's having a "procedure"... he said nothing serious, just a few weeks of restrictions on heavy work as he recovers. I have an idea what it may be as I have just done the same thing, but I won't speculate.