Wow a technician, detectorist who fixes and shows us how to fix our units :). I must say that I'm pleased to see how well the Ctx holds up when used to great effect in the sea. Thanks for sharing.. and subbed
Yes. I have used silicon grease in past but this did had worn / washed off. I need to keep better eye on it. I also use PTFE tape on thread to stop water ingress.
Obviously a well used machine. Couple of observations. Worth replacing the seals rather than just washing them off and the later seals are upgraded. The salt corroded connectors could be avoided by coating with silicone grease. Works for me. Also coax seal as advised by Clive Clynick works a treat too adding another layer of water proofing. Despite being a former TV & video technician I would hesitate to strip my unit down so kudos to you for doing it and sharing with fellow CTX owners. 👍👍
yes, it get several times most weeks and in the sea. I tried the silicon grease on connectors but found that washed off over time. I now use PTFE tape on threads, so at least they come apart easily. The inner seals are hard to get and special shape, I had problem getting spares from service agent. In the past I had used silicon grease on the battery seal but found that the seal swelled after about 6 months as it reacted badly to the silicon (it should not but..), hence just the washing of seal to remove grit and crud. They did not appear to be crushed in slightest. Glad you liked.
I managed to start the broken CTX, but now I have another problem and it is that it does not detect the coil. I do not know if the machine had this problem before because there was a defect in the coil connector. Do you know if there is a way to check this coil? Some ohm measurements on the coil cable connector so I can compare with the one I have. Thanks
The CTX coils have a chip inside them to tell the detector which coil is attached. Once you get "coil not detected" error the only solution is to replace coil. I have had several coils fail on me in past.
Hola , tengo un ctx que aparece en la pantalla el aviso de que no detecta la bobina . La máquina no detecta absolutamente nada . Sabes si es posible comprobar la bobina ? Gracias
Hello, I have a fault in a CTX and I need to know the deleted reference of the 2 input power supply circuits of the source. One would be Q301 and the other nearby one that does not appear silkscreened. Do you know anything? Thanks
Hi, I need to repair my ctx3030. The problem is a component resistor/capacitor smd but I don't know the code or value . The place of this component is L401. Do you have a diagram circuit? I ' ll try to put the pic of it
If you speak to minelab service centre they can supply them. If you have the black screws there is a service alert to change them to stainless free of charge.
hello, my ctx 3030 device and my wm 10 device are no longer pairing. I have two wm10 devices now, but both do not match, the problem is in my detector. If I ask you, would you suggest me? I think there is a problem with the wifi module or antenna inside the detector and I want to fix it myself, can you help?
I have not had any experience in repair of the wireless module. I know there is always a very precise procedure to get the detector and module to pair. If the modules power up, then follow the procedure very carefully and they should pair.
@@SandyToesDetecting I have the vertical lines on my screen too...I just ordered 2 new screens. I don't want to over tighten them when I'm done. And by the way Great Video, Thank you so much..
Had my screen broken by baggage handlers. Minelab fixed the screen also replaced the upper shaft and face plate. $240 total. I couldn't bring myself to try and fix it. But liked the video. 😀
They are stainless steel screws (even if they are black on earlier units) You need to get from minelab as the tread pitch and size is important as the existing screws have already cut into the plastic. Using different screws could potentially not allow the electronic cases not to seal correctly. Bit of problem if you use in water.
@@owenkitto27 Yes, he has very few, minelab dont keep many spares, All I can suggest is another repair centre, though Steve is only one in UK. You could contact minelab in Ireland, maybe they have some ?
@@underground1111 you need to speak to the local minelab service agent in your country. I you are in UK its MSR, the full links are on the minelab support page. Not all agents carry them but should be able to get in couple of days if not. It's an easy job to replace. just be very carful with the gasket & grove on the inside is clean before putting back together. There is 1 ribbon cable. The screws should not be overtightened around the outside. Just gently done up to close gap.
Thanks. I did it over this weekend. Some bits I have never done before like changing connectors. The interface unit long cable was the most difficult as had to figure it all out. I can do a quick strip to open & close cases in about an hour. This took longer as removing and replacing cables & connectors as well as soldering. I think probably 4 or 5 hours.
@@SandyToesDetecting Thank You ! I have been wanting to go inside to clean mine. I also have recently got three fine black lines running halfway threw my screen. Not serious yet, but just annoying at times. Thank You again for the "How to Video". Darrell
@@wingrovedl Its not a difficult job but you have to keep the seals scrupulously clean before putting back together. The LCD can be purchased off ebay from Japan (I think) for about $40. Worth cleaning contacts for LCD as think that is where a lot of issues arise over time. Good luck with repair.
@@SandyToesDetecting good evening, I asked if there are spare boards for the stх block in your country and at what price they are, mine broke last week
@@stepanstepan6827 Only the official minelab device centres have boards unless someone is breaking a detector down for spares. There was a detector in bits I think from Ukraine about 1 month ago on ebay. The service centre prices are very high for parts. There are centres in France, Germany & UK,
@@soltaansoltaan8895 I think that maybe a problem as the screen is not a standard spare part, though clearly its made, the whole handle display is changed on any warranty work.
Wow a technician, detectorist who fixes and shows us how to fix our units :). I must say that I'm pleased to see how well the Ctx holds up when used to great effect in the sea. Thanks for sharing.. and subbed
Yes the 3030 is really solid, need to take a few extra precaution with it if taking it into the water but its a great machine.
It helps to use dielectric grease in the connectors to prevent corrosion
Yes. I have used silicon grease in past but this did had worn / washed off. I need to keep better eye on it. I also use PTFE tape on thread to stop water ingress.
Sir great information thanks. God bless you and all.
Obviously a well used machine. Couple of observations. Worth replacing the seals rather than just washing them off and the later seals are upgraded. The salt corroded connectors could be avoided by coating with silicone grease. Works for me. Also coax seal as advised by Clive Clynick works a treat too adding another layer of water proofing. Despite being a former TV & video technician I would hesitate to strip my unit down so kudos to you for doing it and sharing with fellow CTX owners. 👍👍
yes, it get several times most weeks and in the sea. I tried the silicon grease on connectors but found that washed off over time. I now use PTFE tape on threads, so at least they come apart easily. The inner seals are hard to get and special shape, I had problem getting spares from service agent. In the past I had used silicon grease on the battery seal but found that the seal swelled after about 6 months as it reacted badly to the silicon (it should not but..), hence just the washing of seal to remove grit and crud. They did not appear to be crushed in slightest. Glad you liked.
I managed to start the broken CTX, but now I have another problem and it is that it does not detect the coil. I do not know if the machine had this problem before because there was a defect in the coil connector. Do you know if there is a way to check this coil? Some ohm measurements on the coil cable connector so I can compare with the one I have. Thanks
The CTX coils have a chip inside them to tell the detector which coil is attached. Once you get "coil not detected" error the only solution is to replace coil. I have had several coils fail on me in past.
Hola , tengo un ctx que aparece en la pantalla el aviso de que no detecta la bobina . La máquina no detecta absolutamente nada . Sabes si es posible comprobar la bobina ?
Gracias
Right, time settle down and watch it 😎👍
Enjoy
@@SandyToesDetecting you deserve a medal for that!
Gold would be nice 😀
Hello, I have a fault in a CTX and I need to know the deleted reference of the 2 input power supply circuits of the source. One would be Q301 and the other nearby one that does not appear silkscreened. Do you know anything? Thanks
Sorry unfortunately not.
Hi, I need to repair my ctx3030. The problem is a component resistor/capacitor smd but I don't know the code or value . The place of this component is L401. Do you have a diagram circuit? I ' ll try to put the pic of it
sorry never been able to obtain schematics.
Where can you get the housing screws ?
If you speak to minelab service centre they can supply them. If you have the black screws there is a service alert to change them to stainless free of charge.
hello, my ctx 3030 device and my wm 10 device are no longer pairing. I have two wm10 devices now, but both do not match, the problem is in my detector. If I ask you, would you suggest me? I think there is a problem with the wifi module or antenna inside the detector and I want to fix it myself, can you help?
I have not had any experience in repair of the wireless module. I know there is always a very precise procedure to get the detector and module to pair. If the modules power up, then follow the procedure very carefully and they should pair.
Did i miss it? What did you say the torque spec on screws was?
i did, I would need to check, its very low as the screws go into plastic, very easy to overdo it.
@@SandyToesDetecting I have the vertical lines on my screen too...I just ordered 2 new screens. I don't want to over tighten them when I'm done. And by the way Great Video, Thank you so much..
Torque setting is 10lb/f
Had my screen broken by baggage handlers. Minelab fixed the screen also replaced the upper shaft and face plate.
$240 total. I couldn't bring myself to try and fix it. But liked the video. 😀
That is actually quite cheap for those bits.
What are the screws where can you get these from?
They are stainless steel screws (even if they are black on earlier units) You need to get from minelab as the tread pitch and size is important as the existing screws have already cut into the plastic. Using different screws could potentially not allow the electronic cases not to seal correctly. Bit of problem if you use in water.
@@SandyToesDetecting Steve cox sorted me the screws but he has no more spare
@@owenkitto27 Yes, he has very few, minelab dont keep many spares, All I can suggest is another repair centre, though Steve is only one in UK. You could contact minelab in Ireland, maybe they have some ?
Well done doing that, surprising where sand gets in. Be doing that myself too if any problems arise.
Yes sand gets everywhere ! I wash down detector with fresh water after every outing as well. Good luck in doing yours.
What happened to your Legend video?
Hay there is it possible to buy the part that the headphones and battery connects too. Thanks for your video was amazing
Yes, it’s called the bulkhead, I think it’s about 150 euros
Nice one mate thanks is it possible to put a link to a site where I can get my hands on one in Europe
@@underground1111 you need to speak to the local minelab service agent in your country. I you are in UK its MSR, the full links are on the minelab support page. Not all agents carry them but should be able to get in couple of days if not. It's an easy job to replace. just be very carful with the gasket & grove on the inside is clean before putting back together. There is 1 ribbon cable. The screws should not be overtightened around the outside. Just gently done up to close gap.
@@SandyToesDetecting ok fantastic thank you I will contact minlab support
Nice work !
About how many hours did it take you to do?
Thanks. I did it over this weekend. Some bits I have never done before like changing connectors. The interface unit long cable was the most difficult as had to figure it all out. I can do a quick strip to open & close cases in about an hour. This took longer as removing and replacing cables & connectors as well as soldering. I think probably 4 or 5 hours.
@@SandyToesDetecting Thank You ! I have been wanting to go inside to clean mine. I also have recently got three fine black lines running halfway threw my screen. Not serious yet, but just annoying at times. Thank You again for the "How to Video". Darrell
@@wingrovedl Its not a difficult job but you have to keep the seals scrupulously clean before putting back together. The LCD can be purchased off ebay from Japan (I think) for about $40. Worth cleaning contacts for LCD as think that is where a lot of issues arise over time. Good luck with repair.
У мене зламався СТХ у вашій країні є зарасний блок електроніки???🌝
Вибачте, я не розумію запитання. Ваш CTX зламався. ?
@@SandyToesDetecting good evening, I asked if there are spare boards for the stх block in your country and at what price they are, mine broke last week
@@stepanstepan6827 Only the official minelab device centres have boards unless someone is breaking a detector down for spares. There was a detector in bits I think from Ukraine about 1 month ago on ebay. The service centre prices are very high for parts. There are centres in France, Germany & UK,
@@SandyToesDetectingthanks) and there, if you do it yourself, the repair will cost $10, but I am interested in the most reliable option..
@@stepanstepan6827 Which circuit board are you after ?
LCD MINELAB EQU NOX 800
?
@@SandyToesDetecting Hello, I am looking for a screen for my device, it was broken EQU NOX 800
@@soltaansoltaan8895 I think that maybe a problem as the screen is not a standard spare part, though clearly its made, the whole handle display is changed on any warranty work.
Ребят подскажите сколько у вас стоит стх 3030
2200 euros
Зачем он его разобрал кто знает ?!
Поскольку детектор не включался, а выключался сам по себе. Кабель и разъем были плохими.
@@SandyToesDetecting ок СПС !!!
Учи русский пригодится !!!
Учи русский пригодится !!!
Появляется русский перевод
@@SandyToesDetecting спасибо
IF YOU LOOKED AFTER IT WOULD NOT LOOK LIKE THAT LMASO
It is well looked after, it is as well used