If you are installing a weld on handrail it will take out the flex. With handrail tied to all the steps and a foot to floor at top and bottom tread this will tie all the steps together and will taking out most the flex you having. Like the work you do and the free hand plasma cutting is excellent.I enjoy watching your progress Good luck on your future projects....
The flex of the steps is coming from the twisting of the beam that the steps are attached to. The vertical beams going up from that beam are not helping because the upper side of the beam that holding the steps is not moving up. It is moving out over the steps and the lower part is being pushed toward the wall. To prevent the flex in the steps you need to prevent both of those two motions. If the wall is sturdy (which it seems to be) you can attach the beam to the wall in a couple of places and you should be able to reduce the flex quite substantially. The second thing you can do is attach the steps together on the outer side so that the load is not on a single step but several. That is much less important however. I confess that I first clicked for the beatiful view of some "hind quarters" in one of the thumbnails. But now I am invested for completely other reasons so thank you :) Best of luck on your wonderful project!
I love those floating stairs!!!!!! The flex would never bother me! I am sure this is all solved by now...But, I agree with Intidatorswrath - the railing could be used to to reinforce the out side edge.
Or from the treads to each stair above and below, or to the handrail, or to a cross beam above the stairs. They'd give an industrial look and keep the floating stairs vibe, and would give a fall barrier
Hey guys! First I want to say I love your vids. Let’s just go with those stairs! It seems sturdy enough. You know an ordinary staircase flexes too right! Keep up the good work👌🏻
I still say you make the best free-hand plasma cuts i have seen. Keep doing what your doing. I enjoy the videos you two produce, thank you for sharing.
Been cutting and welding for 40+ years and I have never used a guide! You only need one if you cant pull a straight line and have the discipline to control your torch! From what I can see you have the best of both and your cuts look fantastic!
Good day to you guys I am Monray I love watching you guys I can't wait for the next episode I think a flat boor under the stairs in the middle that will work an I'm from south Africa cape town
Grat job guys. You can link stairs steps with a steel wire to the roof which help to reduce the flex and add aesthetic look. Either way so exited to final look 😍
I helped a buddy about 10 years ago build his floating stairs and i know how to fix it, one way is to weld a post down the bottom and top of stairs then put a heavy tube steel for the railing then use round bar or rebar, pipe and weld it to the under side of the railing and to the face of the the stairs that should stiffing it up i hope this helps you fix it up and it’ll still look like its floating and you will have your handrail at the same time
Funny, Most stairways seem to flex a little, BUT, MOST, stairways are supported on both ends so the flex is straight down and unnoticeable. You are doing really well and I will bet that most of the critisisim is from people that have never done what you are doing
if your covering these with hardwood treads then 1. extend the floating horizontal end with a small fillet piece so its long enough to line up with the vertical tread below . 2 Weld a section of rod from the fillet to the vertical. that way all the treads support each other, no hand rail needed if thats not desired and the treads appear to still float.
Bravo pour ce que vous faites. J'ai beaucoup aimee le plasma. Juste je pense que les marches doivent etre plus profonde et pour ce qui est de l'escalier cote flotant vous pouvez souder des tubes ronds de l'escalier a une poutre fixer au plafond et de 1 ca renforcera et de 2 ca fera office de rampe
Looks good. I'm new to your channel. I've built industrial staircases and flex is normal. When you run up and down you will get vibrations. The worst case scenario is a group on the stairs for a portrait or carrying furniture. I think you are fine.
I am at 22:41. 2 posts on the back running from the beam to the floor welded on both top and bottom flanges will reduce more flex than the small plates you welled in. I cannot wait to see how that works for you.
I think you will be good, but if you need to you could weld the left side of the stairs with a piece of bent strapping. It would mostly be hidden when you put your treads on and spread the load on any one tread to the one above and below. Plus the railing will help too.
Just a couple things for ya. I think I pointed this out before but about the worst an inspector is going to be able to do is insist that 300lbs at the railing land doesnt cause a deflection greater than 3/8" and that the riser height at full deflection is still smaller than the maximum riser height. So you are very close right where you are. I think I would get your final risers on and recheck beause you are going to have some twisting when you step on a riser that is further out and that twist is going to be additive to your deflection measurement. (Its measured at the nose of the stair). Looking awesome! Love checking in and seeing what youve gotten done. It really is a cool project.
Hi guy's love your work the home is coming along very nicely from what I can see .ps how old are the videos. Have you guy's actually finished the place or are we seeing it in real time
did something similar with a glass balustrade … 5 treads to each glass balustrade section with two bolts per tread … makes it absolutely rigid with zero flex
Every artist knows that when you start out, use a guide and once you become good, they tend to get in the way. That's why DaVinci used a freehand circle as a measurement of skill rather than showing the Vatican his drawings.
The maximum deflection allowed in steel is 0.003% of the span so that if the tread width is say 1m then the deflection is 3mm. In this case the deflection will probably consist of the deflection of the angle and the twisting of the channel section string so that the angle is probably well within the allowable deflection and the channel section ought to have internal stiffeners (that ought to have been included before it was installed.
If U want bolt holes round and looked as if drilled ?with a tapered pin punch a machinist’s hammer .while hottest from cutting .put punch in hole n hit it a few times then confirm with bolt .4’levers for steps each foot of step length multiplied leverage .U2are learning.this is best teacher.i have every confidence in The 2of U .clean tight welds devoid of perosity is best advice .U are having fun while learning . Have a good one !
run rods from the roof to -- out side edge of stairway on to 24 inch plating steel under stairway for good looks -- to rods //holding stairway in 2 place on out side //and just run 2 rods on out side edge to look like a free standing stairway . or for looks just use chine ..no rods from inside roof down hook to plate steel on stairs side
Do you think you could construct a railing system that also holds in place the slight drop in stair height? I think you can. The end POSTS can act as anchor/Pier points. Think of it as a bridge.
Plan C: weld the riser to the next tread? You're going to cover the steel anyways, it turns the staircase into one cohesive unit (literally no flex) which means you still have your floating staircase.
@clivewilliams3661 not if they're putting, say wood, on both the risers and treads. In effect the covering would be, for lack of a better term, a veneer for the steel.
@@markryan3739 If you look at the tread angle in section you will notice they don't overlap so getting any connection between treads would be problematic to achieve. I must admit I remembered the same detail I designed on a near identical staircase, where the treads were free floating that is the common traditional perception on a cantilever tread staircase. The treads will have to be finished in a material like the oak cladding that I used on the tread and short rier. this detail gives a solid feeel to the stairs as you rise up it and open from all other angles. The nosing of each tread needs to overlap the tread of the one below (the going) to give a comfortable operation in use. I trust the setting out of the bottom and top treads takes the thickness of any covering into account to give an even and equal rise to each tread. Apart from wrapping the steel in timber, it would look really superb with either dressed or cast (lime)stone treads and risers.
So I am not one to think in the here and now, I like to think further out. Now I do not think these stair will ever fail, but that being said I wonder if over time they might show more wear as far as sagging? I have been in a lot of metal shops and homes that have made stairs in them, After some time they all either show some signs of use one of the worst is that some treads will sag, and some wont thus making uneven tread heights. Some of these are cantilevered like you built. I have had to fix this in two homes and it can be a real pain in the butt. Just something for you all to think about now before you have to deal with it later.
Handyman.... or was it Handeeman.... IDK - he closed up his channel and moved to South America - anyway, he built his house in the desert using ICF blocks.... and LOTS and LOTS of steel. He did a floating staircase AND a spiral staircase out of steel.... but no... I don't remember him showing us any flex. They were nice stairs just the same. In your case... you've told us you will be adding a tread and a riser I guess... but you've given us no clue as to the final look you are going for.... other than the floating staircase look. I'm just thinking that if your treads and risers are wooden, I bet you could hide reinforcement in the tread/riser combo somehow. Love your videos!! (Oh... and maybe I came to the channel too late... but you ought to introduce your husband to us.... maybe share his background information. He sounds French to me.... but I don't really have an ear for that sort of thing. I always love when people who are obviously meant to be together find each other across the oceans... or even just borders. Excellent!)
The reason nobody shows the floating stairs and the person walking in the same frame is because they all flex. No matter what you do, you're only securing one end and therefore, physics says that if you stand on the very edge, there'll be a vertical displacement.
This staircase reminds me of one I designed and was built for a house around 10 years ago, the detailing is nearly identical. Why were the stiffening plates for the channel added after the string was installed?? They should have been part of the fabrication prior to installation All of this staircase should have been detailed designed before fabrication, it would have made the process so much easier..
Your flex appears to be more of a roll towards the front of the tread. This might rectify itself with the finish tread attached. At worst, a gusset on the end of each stair might fix the roll and could be hidden within the finish tread.
The right angle steps already killed the floating.Look for me. It was probably necessary for strength, but at this point it doesn't really matter what other reinforcements you add, hardly looks floating anymore
Eine Frage am Rande: Ihr wohnt ja sehr abgelegen und weit ab von nächsten Nachbarn. Wie funktioniert das bei Euch mit Hausmüll und Co. ? Müsst Ihr regelmäßig selbst zur Deponie fahren oder wird der Abfall an einem bestimmten Ort in der Nähe abgeholt ?
Here's a video th-cam.com/users/shorts0cuOhsx3bdk from a polish company that builds from what I've seen a lot of floating stairs and it's done in a similar way I'm attempting to. One of my backup plans in case my floating stairs flex too much is to modify them into "carpet stairs". The polish term gets its name exactly from those carpets that you put on stairs which is apparently so popular in US I simply cannot get a good English term because google is flooded with carpet on stairs :-) So, general idea is that you connect treads together, so you have all those "L" shapes running the full height and length but you do not put in any other reinforcement underneath. It can be done in concrete but it looks especially cool in thin materials like steel sheet or like in your case angle iron :) Whatever the thickness the end result is this zig-zag shape when looking from the side. Still looks more cool than regular stairs but get much less flex, definitely closer to something more conventional. Think about it in case you feel floating is not good enough in terms of stiffness.
Quite funny that negative/"you're doing it wrong" comments come from those who do not have their own channel...do they not actually do anything?...sitting and criticizing... very sad...humans are a species that can not be universally admired...
Your going to have metal fatigue over time, you need an outer stringer. Study cantilever srtuctural math, a 1/2" weld will fail over time, IMO, "commercial const pro 45 years*
37.10 in the uk our tapes come with inches on one side and metric on the other so measuring small gaps can be quite easy - if one side doesn’t quite line up then the other will. I am in no way metrificated but It does come in handy sometimes😊🇬🇧
If you are installing a weld on handrail it will take out the flex. With handrail tied to all the steps and a foot to floor at top and bottom tread this will tie all the steps together and will taking out most the flex you having. Like the work you do and the free hand plasma cutting is excellent.I enjoy watching your progress Good luck on your future projects....
It will work like a truss system, same as a roof truss …
The flex of the steps is coming from the twisting of the beam that the steps are attached to. The vertical beams going up from that beam are not helping because the upper side of the beam that holding the steps is not moving up. It is moving out over the steps and the lower part is being pushed toward the wall. To prevent the flex in the steps you need to prevent both of those two motions. If the wall is sturdy (which it seems to be) you can attach the beam to the wall in a couple of places and you should be able to reduce the flex quite substantially.
The second thing you can do is attach the steps together on the outer side so that the load is not on a single step but several. That is much less important however.
I confess that I first clicked for the beatiful view of some "hind quarters" in one of the thumbnails. But now I am invested for completely other reasons so thank you :) Best of luck on your wonderful project!
I love those floating stairs!!!!!! The flex would never bother me! I am sure this is all solved by now...But, I agree with Intidatorswrath - the railing could be used to to reinforce the out side edge.
Jess you have a very steady hand. No guide needed.
Welded chains from the treads to the floor would look really cool. Like a piece of art.
Or from the treads to each stair above and below, or to the handrail, or to a cross beam above the stairs. They'd give an industrial look and keep the floating stairs vibe, and would give a fall barrier
I was thinking cables, like they use for deck railings. Chains might be visual overload.
Looking really, really good team 😊
Hey guys! First I want to say I love your vids.
Let’s just go with those stairs! It seems sturdy enough. You know an ordinary staircase flexes too right!
Keep up the good work👌🏻
Menudo trabajo!! está quedando espectacular!!!!!
I still say you make the best free-hand plasma cuts i have seen. Keep doing what your doing.
I enjoy the videos you two produce, thank you for sharing.
Good morning 🌅,one step closer 😂, step in time saves nine 😂, ok I stop now, Great Work Guys, 💔 from France.
You guys explain and do! Love your videos! Thank you!
Been cutting and welding for 40+ years and I have never used a guide! You only need one if you cant pull a straight line and have the discipline to control your torch! From what I can see you have the best of both and your cuts look fantastic!
Good day to you guys I am Monray I love watching you guys I can't wait for the next episode I think a flat boor under the stairs in the middle that will work an I'm from south Africa cape town
Idea! Install steel tube from top to bottom, 2/3 from wall to middle to absorb the flex, just an idea.
seems like we been watching the stair build for a year now. I hope I live long enough to see the finished stairs
Grat job guys. You can link stairs steps with a steel wire to the roof which help to reduce the flex and add aesthetic look. Either way so exited to final look 😍
I helped a buddy about 10 years ago build his floating stairs and i know how to fix it, one way is to weld a post down the bottom and top of stairs then put a heavy tube steel for the railing then use round bar or rebar, pipe and weld it to the under side of the railing and to the face of the the stairs that should stiffing it up i hope this helps you fix it up and it’ll still look like its floating and you will have your handrail at the same time
Funny, Most stairways seem to flex a little, BUT, MOST, stairways are supported on both ends so the flex is straight down and unnoticeable.
You are doing really well and I will bet that most of the critisisim is from people that have never done what you are doing
Bonjour de France, et encore un merci pour cette vidéo , bon courage pour la suite
Serge de France près de Mulhouse en Alsace @+
if your covering these with hardwood treads then
1. extend the floating horizontal end with a small fillet piece so its long enough to line up with the vertical tread below .
2 Weld a section of rod from the fillet to the vertical.
that way all the treads support each other, no hand rail needed if thats not desired and the treads appear to still float.
Looks good you’re moving up in the world one step at a time take care always.
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
Bravo pour ce que vous faites. J'ai beaucoup aimee le plasma. Juste je pense que les marches doivent etre plus profonde et pour ce qui est de l'escalier cote flotant vous pouvez souder des tubes ronds de l'escalier a une poutre fixer au plafond et de 1 ca renforcera et de 2 ca fera office de rampe
Looks good. I'm new to your channel. I've built industrial staircases and flex is normal. When you run up and down you will get vibrations. The worst case scenario is a group on the stairs for a portrait or carrying furniture. I think you are fine.
I am at 22:41. 2 posts on the back running from the beam to the floor welded on both top and bottom flanges will reduce more flex than the small plates you welled in. I cannot wait to see how that works for you.
I think you will be good, but if you need to you could weld the left side of the stairs with a piece of bent strapping. It would mostly be hidden when you put your treads on and spread the load on any one tread to the one above and below.
Plus the railing will help too.
I'm learning a lot about welding from you. Thanks!
Depending on your railing design condition, you may be able to correct total deflection @ the open stair end. Can you share railing design sketches ?
Tieing the ends of the stairs together with a floating hand rail would look cool and tie the stairs together, and still allow a little bounce.
What I mean is have the rail that your hand and vertices tubes going down to each stair. The whole unit would still be floating but more of one unit.
It looks great!! Live with the Flex.
Just a couple things for ya. I think I pointed this out before but about the worst an inspector is going to be able to do is insist that 300lbs at the railing land doesnt cause a deflection greater than 3/8" and that the riser height at full deflection is still smaller than the maximum riser height. So you are very close right where you are. I think I would get your final risers on and recheck beause you are going to have some twisting when you step on a riser that is further out and that twist is going to be additive to your deflection measurement. (Its measured at the nose of the stair). Looking awesome! Love checking in and seeing what youve gotten done. It really is a cool project.
I’m assuming you will put wooden (or something else) treads on . That should pretty much eliminate any bounce I think. Looks good.
Looks good to me, puts a little spring in your step!
You could run a rod iron bar along outer edge from top to bottom!
That would combine the strength from multiple floating steps.
Awesome job
Those eyes 😍
You're SO pretty.
Your effort is inspirational! Nice work.
Hi guy's love your work the home is coming along very nicely from what I can see
.ps how old are the videos. Have you guy's actually finished the place or are we seeing it in real time
The stairs look really good. Did you try running up & down to see if it will flex more? Are you putting wood on the treads? ❤
👍👍👍
😎😎😎😎😎
Looking better now. Hopefully it works out for you.
My guess: gray? (maybe)???
did something similar with a glass balustrade … 5 treads to each glass balustrade section with two bolts per tread … makes it absolutely rigid with zero flex
Wood would flex way more. All good.
Weld and L bracket from the front of the bottom stair to the bottom of the next stair up. Do that for all the stairs and no flex.
Every artist knows that when you start out, use a guide and once you become good, they tend to get in the way. That's why DaVinci used a freehand circle as a measurement of skill rather than showing the Vatican his drawings.
you can easily resolve the fllex problem with a wedge welded below the tread or a gusset
Y’all are just awesome steel workers! Those floating stairs are sexy!
That amount of flex is so little it wont bend, it always comes back to it's original position.
The maximum deflection allowed in steel is 0.003% of the span so that if the tread width is say 1m then the deflection is 3mm. In this case the deflection will probably consist of the deflection of the angle and the twisting of the channel section string so that the angle is probably well within the allowable deflection and the channel section ought to have internal stiffeners (that ought to have been included before it was installed.
How about using a pole on going thru each tread and then using the top of the pole to weld a handrail
Making a french guy use inches is a violence! 😂
how are you doing that? I can't get a cut that straight even with a guide. you're very talented.
❤❤❤
If U want bolt holes round and looked as if drilled ?with a tapered pin punch a machinist’s hammer .while hottest from cutting .put punch in hole n hit it a few times then confirm with bolt .4’levers for steps each foot of step length multiplied leverage .U2are learning.this is best teacher.i have every confidence in The 2of U .clean tight welds devoid of perosity is best advice .U are having fun while learning . Have a good one !
That edge stair going to be danger walking close to it
you need a lasher clean off rust //easy
A gas with the flux core will make your world more flexible like it does for a semi trailer are used to weld Stoughton trailers together their frames
Walking down these stairs could be a hazard.
run rods from the roof to -- out side edge of stairway on to 24 inch plating steel under stairway for good looks -- to rods //holding stairway in 2 place on out side //and just run 2 rods on out side edge to look like a free standing stairway . or for looks just use chine ..no rods from inside roof down hook to plate steel on stairs side
Do you think you could construct a railing system that also holds in place the slight drop in stair height? I think you can. The end POSTS can act as anchor/Pier points. Think of it as a bridge.
Plan C: weld the riser to the next tread? You're going to cover the steel anyways, it turns the staircase into one cohesive unit (literally no flex) which means you still have your floating staircase.
You will ruin the whole aesthetic.
@clivewilliams3661 not if they're putting, say wood, on both the risers and treads. In effect the covering would be, for lack of a better term, a veneer for the steel.
@@markryan3739 If you look at the tread angle in section you will notice they don't overlap so getting any connection between treads would be problematic to achieve. I must admit I remembered the same detail I designed on a near identical staircase, where the treads were free floating that is the common traditional perception on a cantilever tread staircase. The treads will have to be finished in a material like the oak cladding that I used on the tread and short rier. this detail gives a solid feeel to the stairs as you rise up it and open from all other angles. The nosing of each tread needs to overlap the tread of the one below (the going) to give a comfortable operation in use. I trust the setting out of the bottom and top treads takes the thickness of any covering into account to give an even and equal rise to each tread. Apart from wrapping the steel in timber, it would look really superb with either dressed or cast (lime)stone treads and risers.
You are Gorgeous!!
Maybe a middle ground is having something on the left going up (not down) ps not done watching so maybe you don’t need that anyway ~fingers crossed~
Just add a hand rail, which is required anyway for safety.
So I am not one to think in the here and now, I like to think further out. Now I do not think these stair will ever fail, but that being said I wonder if over time they might show more wear as far as sagging? I have been in a lot of metal shops and homes that have made stairs in them, After some time they all either show some signs of use one of the worst is that some treads will sag, and some wont thus making uneven tread heights. Some of these are cantilevered like you built. I have had to fix this in two homes and it can be a real pain in the butt. Just something for you all to think about now before you have to deal with it later.
Handyman.... or was it Handeeman.... IDK - he closed up his channel and moved to South America - anyway, he built his house in the desert using ICF blocks.... and LOTS and LOTS of steel. He did a floating staircase AND a spiral staircase out of steel.... but no... I don't remember him showing us any flex. They were nice stairs just the same. In your case... you've told us you will be adding a tread and a riser I guess... but you've given us no clue as to the final look you are going for.... other than the floating staircase look. I'm just thinking that if your treads and risers are wooden, I bet you could hide reinforcement in the tread/riser combo somehow. Love your videos!! (Oh... and maybe I came to the channel too late... but you ought to introduce your husband to us.... maybe share his background information. He sounds French to me.... but I don't really have an ear for that sort of thing. I always love when people who are obviously meant to be together find each other across the oceans... or even just borders. Excellent!)
The reason nobody shows the floating stairs and the person walking in the same frame is because they all flex. No matter what you do, you're only securing one end and therefore, physics says that if you stand on the very edge, there'll be a vertical displacement.
You two might want to invest in a laser welder/cleaner. It will speed up the cleaning process alone 100 times and a massive amount LESS DUST!
This staircase reminds me of one I designed and was built for a house around 10 years ago, the detailing is nearly identical.
Why were the stiffening plates for the channel added after the string was installed?? They should have been part of the fabrication prior to installation All of this staircase should have been detailed designed before fabrication, it would have made the process so much easier..
Your flex appears to be more of a roll towards the front of the tread. This might rectify itself with the finish tread attached. At worst, a gusset on the end of each stair might fix the roll and could be hidden within the finish tread.
Even if they flex 1/8” or less they are in no danger of breaking.
Would you like to borrow my light saber, my young jedi? :) LOL It might cut better. Shrug.
2024.
Why aren't you insulating the outside walls? That's where the weather is.
The right angle steps already killed the floating.Look for me. It was probably necessary for strength, but at this point it doesn't really matter what other reinforcements you add, hardly looks floating anymore
I believe you are making too much fuss over minor deflections I really think you do remarkable work together.
You needed to put the post/beam on the middle of the stair threads not on the right side
Eine Frage am Rande: Ihr wohnt ja sehr abgelegen und weit ab von nächsten Nachbarn. Wie funktioniert das bei Euch mit Hausmüll und Co. ? Müsst Ihr regelmäßig selbst zur Deponie fahren oder wird der Abfall an einem bestimmten Ort in der Nähe abgeholt ?
Black?
Here's a video th-cam.com/users/shorts0cuOhsx3bdk from a polish company that builds from what I've seen a lot of floating stairs and it's done in a similar way I'm attempting to.
One of my backup plans in case my floating stairs flex too much is to modify them into "carpet stairs". The polish term gets its name exactly from those carpets that you put on stairs which is apparently so popular in US I simply cannot get a good English term because google is flooded with carpet on stairs :-) So, general idea is that you connect treads together, so you have all those "L" shapes running the full height and length but you do not put in any other reinforcement underneath. It can be done in concrete but it looks especially cool in thin materials like steel sheet or like in your case angle iron :) Whatever the thickness the end result is this zig-zag shape when looking from the side. Still looks more cool than regular stairs but get much less flex, definitely closer to something more conventional. Think about it in case you feel floating is not good enough in terms of stiffness.
Who else thinks the steps are upside down!?
Quite funny that negative/"you're doing it wrong" comments come from those who do not have their own channel...do they not actually do anything?...sitting and criticizing... very sad...humans are a species that can not be universally admired...
Patty said use a cable from steps to ceiling
Your going to have metal fatigue over time, you need an outer stringer. Study cantilever srtuctural math, a 1/2" weld will fail over time, IMO, "commercial const pro 45 years*
37.10 in the uk our tapes come with inches on one side and metric on the other so measuring small gaps can be quite easy - if one side doesn’t quite line up then the other will. I am in no way metrificated but It does come in handy sometimes😊🇬🇧
I gave new name to you, I hope you like it, let me know your new name " fancy face lady"
I wish there were a Billion more women exactly like you!
You have only a problem. You dont know how built a house. You dont know how calculate the structure.It is bettere if you ask to tecnician you are not.
Looking good guys! You amaze me with your creativity.