TWEED - THE CHOICE OF CHAMPIONS | WHY TWEED IS NOT JUST FOR INDIANA JONES AND OTHER ARCHEOLOGISTS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video your enigmatic host discusses the many virtues of tweed in the wardrobe of the modern gentleman!
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#chapsguide #ashjones #mensstyle - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I was in Edinburgh last week and as I was strolling along The Royal Mile, a gentleman from Toronto stopped me and told me how he admired my Harris Tweed overcoat. He then complimented me on my suit and the mirror shine on my brown Oxford shoes. We discussed the method of getting a mirror shine and how much we love tweed. It was a very pleasant few minutes in what was becoming a cold day. I then popped into the Ensign Ewart pub to have “a nippy sweetie” (whisky).
Tweed, beautiful tweed. As a youth I remember accompanying my father when he bought a magnificent herringbone tweed overcoat. I still recall the smell of the new wool and the grain of the fibre. He wore that coat every winter for the next thirty years 'till he passed away and it still looked great. I wouldn't be without my trusty tweed sports coats. Worn with a polo-neck jumper or a tattersall shirt for that comfortable, snug look. Thanks for reminding me of my love of tweed Ash.
Incredibly special. Where is that overcoat now? I hope it’s yours.
@@miguellucero The moths eventually got to it, I'm afraid, but I can still see my father in that herringbone coat, double breasted with a belt at the back as he proudly staggered down the sidewalk with my mother.
The thing I like most about autumn is the fact that I can finally put on my tweed jackets. I simply love them. And yes, it's all about performance. Greetings from Germany!
I absolutely love tweed. Jackets, vests, flat caps, overcoat. I love all my tweed pieces. I can’t wait for fall every year so I can wear them.
From this time of the year until Spring, you will find me in tweed. I have a selection of tweed jackets, some vintage, some modern, and I love them all. When they wear out (usually the lining), a decent tailor can re-line them - and they’re ready for a good 20years use!!
Hi Ash, it has been a while since I was able to chime in. I'm a tourist guide and photographer here in the Maltese Islands. I have to say in our cool to cold weather months, I live in my Harris Tweed jackets. They so versatile and practical, I have 2 Hounds Tooth, 2 Herringbone and 1 Plad. In the coming weeks they will be close to my second skin. Greetings to everyone and have a great weekend ahead everyone.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for your good wishes! I have to say I am very surprised to hear that you have cold weather in winter. What is the average temperature in winter? Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina, where the average max. temperature in winter is 14 degrees Celsius and the minimum is 7.
@@arslongavitabrevis5136 my apologies for not getting back sooner, greetings to you in Buenos Aires. This is a place I would love to see one day, it looks beautiful.
Through the winter months here in the Maltese Islands, the average lows are about 9c and highs about 16c. This is pretty much correct I would say. Our summers are long and savage.
However, in our cool to cold months, I have seen it as cold as 2c with a howling wind off the Alps throughout the day. I have also seen it in the low 20s.
We often have very sunny conditions during the winter as well, and we love it.
@@martinbonniciphotography Hello Martin! Thank you for your reply, no need for apologies. 😁 I am surprised that, given your position, you have such cold winters. If you ever visit Buenos Aires, make sure you will do it in the spring (September-November). The weather is gorgeous! Regards!
I wore my tweed jacket in an afterwork party yesterday evening. I got many compliments. It's so stylish it blends very well with today's casual outfits.
Very nice!
Tweed the king of fabrics 😊
You hit the nail on the head at the last of your video when you said performance. Tweed really was the original performance fabric. It sheds water fairly well, and stays warm even when wet. It doesn't tear easily (as you mentioned) if you catch it on twigs. Colors were traditionally selected for their ability to camouflage in natural settings. It doesn't wrinkle, so it will still look sharp after a day romping around the country.
100% agree. Tweed rocks and is so versatile. Not a coincidence that young Officer Cadets at Sandhurst are required to own one and are inspected in them during Junior Term. Tweed need not be expensive (plenty in charity shops). If you have the character and confidence to pull it off, pairs well with outrageously pink or red moleskin or cords. One arcane and perhaps archaic rule: no brown in Town; Tweeds are traditionally not for London offices midweek.
Though in this case (and probably the origin of the saying) it would just mean "no outdoor wear in town" which nowadays everyone ignores anyway.
And I have to concur here, corduroy of all kinds pairs exceedingly well with tweed, probably because they are similarly more of an outdoor function fabric.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Tweed lured me into sartorial dressing; that being my grandfather's Harris Tweed jacket that was handed down to me. After five years in the hobby, I finally commissioned a tweed two piece suit. I received the suit and it is excellent. It's a Holland & Sherry Donegal.
I very much enjoy my two tweed jackets , I have owned them for 20 plus years now. They still looks great (they are hard wearing) and I still fit in them, and good combination, indeed.
As a former educator I enjoyed wearing my tweed jacket in the winter and fall. Because the classroom would have a chill and that tweed was very nice addition.
Keep up the hard work Ash 👍😎👍
Finally, tweed season is back. My flat caps and jackets are ready to have outings again.
Ash I wear tweed more than anything else. I must have over 10 tweed jackets I have a tweed shooting coat and about a half dozen flat caps. And the wife just brought me a Donigal tweed scarf. Tweed is KING. Best regards Ron
It’s the choice of champions Roy.
Love my tweed jackets , though I recently bought a couple of plainer (or as my wife puts it: less farmer) jackets. Can be worn with or without tie, many different styles of shirt, woollens, jeans cords chinos or flannel trousers. Very versatile
Wearing them does make you feel confident, and stands out against the sea of athleisure wear.
We in Finland have a fairly arctic climate. Tweed has been a natural option for me to show my elegance in the cold climate in winter. And surprisingly, it is a very pleasant and well-fitting material to wear
I liked your bold colors in this video. Masterfully using a white shirt to keep it right on the correct side of bold!
Also agree. I love tweed jackets.
I am a great fan of tweed and can normally be found in a tweed jacket this time of year.
Hi Ash again another masterclass in common sense .
Tweed is back in fashion, worn with UK made heritage work boots and quality selvedge denim
Tweed is my favourite fabric and if I could I would own a dozen tweed jackets! BTW, that is a very nice jacket, Ash!
Thank you sir
Doesn’t fit with the vest or tie
Ash
Genuine Donegal tweed is some of the most interesting fabric on earth. Harris tweeds can be even more remarkable. I purchase the cloth and have it shipped to my tailor. He has created several jackets and waist coats for me. The cloth for these beautiful garments is simply not available off the peg. People are constantly asking and commenting on their unusual coloring and appearance, followed by a simple thank you. To me, authentic Irish and Scottish tweed is the king of fabric and when worn properly will give you a look that is unsurpassed. Magee 1866 in Donegal, Ireland and several of the co-ops on the Isle of Harris, Scotland are where it can be purchased on line. The selection is vast and exciting.
Cheers!
i recently picked up an almost unworn grey harris tweed jacket second hand for next to nothing and i absolutely love it. While it is my first tweed jacket it is definetly not my last as i would love to get a green or brown one in the future since i love the more earthy colours for tweed. and it feels so stylish here where the few people who still wear a blazer almost always wear black.
Amazing. We are wearing the exact same tie!! 😊
Great advice Ash, thank you. Have a look at Robert Redford in 'Three Days of the Condor' and 'Spy Game', George Peppard in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' and of course Steve McQueen in 'Bullitt'. Great movies and near perfect choices for your capsule wardrobe, timeless and classic. Fit, as usual, is the key and second hand is a great choice for great Donegal and Harris tweeds in the UK and Ireland.
Always a pleasure to hear your take! Mr Chap
Regard’s from NC, USA
Great video ash
Tweed has an interesting construction. I have seen Harris Tweed made. It is hand-woven in homes on Harris in the westernmost Outer Hebrides. The critical step is "welking" in which the newly woven cloth is dampened. A group gather round a long table, and the cloth is pounded on the table, then passed to the next person. This can go on for an hour or more and is typically done with chanting. The actual objective is to shrink the cloth. This tightens and thickens the cloth. I've seen it done, and the weaver at the end measured and with pride and delight announced that the cloth had shrunk 7.5 inches. And that is what give the tweed its strength and durability.
That was quite the unique color combination you were sporting in the video Ash. I must admit, the bright blue vest and brightly colored tight had me scratching my head alongside that particular tweed jacket. Good video as usual!
I love tweed sports jackets and have a decent collection of them. Unfortunately I live in SE Florida so they don’t get year round use. But anything under 75 degrees I’ll wear them, especially at night to dinner. It really comes down to commitment to style over choosing what is convenient.
Great video Ash👍
Glad you enjoyed
My father, a professor, wore a lot of tweed. Warm and comfy. Not a lot of folks wish to look like Professors
Dry clean only.
However, you can get a technical Tweed coat from Musto which can be machine washed at 30°C
I used to have a beautiful tweed newsboy style ivy cap my grand dad brought from Ireland. It disappeared after university.
The patters and colours on your jacket and tie clash
Have you looked at dashing tweeds on the internet they specialise in tweed suits etc. They are maybe a little gaudy and expensive but i wouldn’t mind just a jacket with the matching trousers just too much for me.
Also on the more casual side, a tweed jacket is the only jacket to go with a rugby shirt.
I really want to get me a tweed jacket now. It will be along side my current corduroy jackets.
Hey 👍🏽 I like those two jeans with tweed examples you’ve briefly showed, I’m a hoodie sweatpants guy unfortunately but I can transition with that, thank you sir.
I like your look, very elegant. Take regards from Italy.
I have only started to learn about tweed a year ago
Didnt know anything about tweed before and its quite funny as i have owned my tweed overcoat for more than 10 years now 😅
Fantastic presentation! I love and wear tweed often during the fall and winter.
Thank you! Cheers!
I often pass on your great talks to my gentlemen friends.
I like Tweed, a lot. I wear mostly steer clothes, but this looks snapping. Thanks
Glad you like it!
I’ve been putting off buying a tweed suit for so long and maybe now my wardrobe is mature enough for my first tweed commission
Thank you Reg. And, yes, now is the perfect time!
A true gentleman 👍
Greetings Ash! Another great video of Tweed garments! I still have my Harris Tweed jackets (x2) and they are still in good condition! I paid $2 each, worth $895.00 (NZ) £490.
I believe I got a bargain? It is so true that they are warm in winter, and cool in summer.
The jackets are bushed cotton not polyester like most jackets to day regardless of brand even high street! 😀👔
Oh just to let you know that book you recommend, *_"The Modern Gentleman's Handbook,"_* its a great book, an I too recommend it as well! I recommend it to someone else online, and they brought it! She was an American!
For a really elegant look with tweeds, a chap could combine flanell slacks and a tie. Choose a heavier Qualität and do NOT wear ties made of finer lashier silks. Best for ties would be Irish Poplin or strongly texturen heavy silks. Flashy silks are rattert caddish!
I feel knit ties would also be an option in this context or would you regard them as too casual already?
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
I have some tweed jackets, recently picked up a vintage Dunn & co brown Harris tweed houndstooth/ check, having trouble seeing the houndstooth but it’s some sort of check. As well recently ordered a vintage glen check tweed jacket(non Harris). I think tweed sport coat suit me very well. It’s casual then worsted wool but still formal enough to look more well put.
Tweed jackets are my default casual wear during the autumn; I wear them the way most other guys wear hoodies...
For smart casual situations I often wear a tweed jacket with jeans (not old/ripped ones) and an open-necked shirt or even polo shirt. Paired with a nice pair of loafers or brogues. I have tweed caps from Scotland, Yorkshire and Ireland that look fine with a modern padded/puffer jacket. It's lovely material and bullet-proof.
Good Morning Ash an the assembled "Chappage"
Just catching up after a busy day yesterday which saw me out of the house at 0630.
Tweed🤔 My granddad always (And I really do mean, Always) used to tell me to wear Harris Tweed as he did (for work, gardening, leisure-everything). We lived in rural Leicestershire, he was a Groom at the Grange and Hunting was the sport of choice. Decades later I eventually acquired a Harris tweed jacket (pre-owned) and I see he was right. I do 2 Tweed suits which I seldom have the occasion to wear. The jacket in a mossy green is extremely versatile, as you suggest. It pairs with Chinos, Moleskin trousers, Cords, Jeans &c. Today has dawned clear with a slight chill in the air, I might hoist it out of my Wardrobe to go on my errands.
*salute
The perfect hard for a Sunday constitutional
Love tweed Ash. The first real outer wear.The original. Tweed was more popular in the 70s and 80s. I just received a Harris Tweed jacket at the local Irish shop.
And purchased matching whale cord pants.
Chin chin Ash.
Starlight
Great choice Chris.
I always try to wear a jacket whenever i can. Even if only for the extra pockets a jacket provides.
I volunteer in the Mens dept of a rummage sale that is tomorrow actually and we have some very nice harris tweed jackets that people have donated. I would wear them if that was my style.
Agreed. Tweed is, for me, an instant elevator of mood, exudes confidence in most any situation. Just yesterday SWMBO and I went to her belated Birthday Dinner (long story), and I was probably the most sharply dressed (but for me, casually) man in the room. The balance of my outfit was a medium brown linen shirt, open collar; khaki pants; chocolate socks to balance the shirt, and mirror polish black shoes...the brown shoes would not fit due to a recent ankle injury and swelling. Had the accessories all been brown, I would have been a study in monochrome.
Simple, but to the point.
I tend to dress in rather conservative style, as budget has not yet allowed a wider, more flamboyant mix of dress....given the chance, I freely confess I would not also have more tweed, I would also have a couple zoot suits in very bright colors.
Oh, and a new pair of black-and-white brogues, to replace the last pair worn out after 38 years.
Nice ensemble sir
I have three tweed jackets. Two are Harris Tweed, a grey double-breasted and a "coffee" single breasted. The third is a blue and black pattern, very handsome, which I received today from ebay. I have s fourth, in shipment from ebay which is brown. I love tweed!
Great video as always, the only comment I would make is that image at 2:15, standing there with you finger wrapped round the trigger does not send a good mesage, the ONLY time your finger should be on the trigger is when you are about to take a shot! That said I do like the jacket
I've got two Harris tweed jackets. One, that typical herringbone grey... that looks exactly like those worn by most of the male school teachers i had... along with the older gents I first started work with. The second, a stormy grey blue background with a very very subtle tan and grey/blue largish window pane check. Oddly, the check can only be seen easily in sunlight, indoors the coat looks medium grey/blue. I'm still trying to work out the herringbone... the other one gets used often.
I had a very nice Harris Tweed jacket,some years ago when I was a younger man.Unfortunately it no longer fits.I do believe George Ma!lost was wearing tweed when climbing Mount Everest.
Let us not forget how Detective Frank Bullitt rocked his dark brown tweed jacket with a dark navy turtleneck! Also it can be said that tweed could be said to be the original athletic wear of the upper echelon Englishmen who founded the Alpine club in 1857. I myself find it a staple of my wardrobe in the spring and fall, it's my go to when in doubt , when in doubt wear a jacket, problem solved!
Ash! Another very informative talk! Which tweed do you prefer! Scot’s Harris or Irish tweed? I have a number of much loved Harris tweed jackets still going strong over 40 years on from new!
I've got the need for tweed!
Ash, could I make a point that I am undoubtedly wrong about. I just thought that the pattern on your tie clashed with your tweed pattern..
I am ignorant in these things but thought I would mention with respect
I used to call those tweed jackets with leather shoulder & elbow patches as Bamber Gascoigne jackets . Usually associated with the boffins old chap ,the sort one might of been stationed at Bletchley Park . My late father use to cut a dash in tweed sports jacket with a pair of slacks, he looked a lot like Roger Moore ,& was a refined gent . I am more of a diamond in the rough,but do try to make an effort ,when one is not gadding about on motorcycles ,presenting an appearance more resembling a dishevelled scruff.. I reckon you have definitely hit onto an overlooked understated yet refined chaps look with the tweed suggestion. I like it 👍
I have several tweed jackets and caps. It's smart. When wet there's a chemical reaction which actually creates heat. I'm from the West country and so tweed is worn by everyone who likes the outdoors
I am currently tweed jacket hunting 👍
Tweed really appeals to me, however the connection to hunting really puts me off. Some ‘man’ with a gun being used on a tweed advert really is a turn off
Don’t care about any other connection .. more respect for the geography teacher than the killer
Don't forget Rupert Bear!
Tweed is a stunning material, it looks awesome, it features *beautiful* patterns and textures and it's awesome in colder weather.
I love my tweed jackets but maybe even more and versatile I sometimes feel are my single and double breasted tweed waistcoats.
And of course, as a former teacher and academic I have zero problems with it's academic connotation that to me that is a kind of connections to a former life.
In short: tweed is awesome, useful, formidably weather resistant and it's also only semi-formal, in many ways as of this autumn my new grey tweed Norfolk shooting jacket (and yes, I at long last found one, though I'm only mediocrally happy with the cut, but hey, that's ready-to-wear - gotta legitimate alteration tailors...) is the item I wear if it's still a bit too warm to go full Burberry's 😉.
And as you mentioned for yourself, most of my newsboy caps are tweed (except the linen one but that's for summer and the corduroy but *that* material has very similar associations).
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Hello Ash, brand new to your fine channel and what wonderful tips. As an American man with extremely limited means I hope I can officially be recognized as a Chap nonetheless. I'm guessing you must have done a spot on the venerable ascot somewhere along the way, will I be able to locate that episode? Cheers.
There is a video or 2 in the back catalogue on cravats/ascots.
Controversial opinion: Patterned tweed (especially with a small pattern/texture like herringbone, houndstooth, flecking, etc.) can be worn with similarly colored solid pieces without giving the impression of a mismatched suit. Similarly, due to the increased contrast between tweed and most other garments due to pattern and texture, certain color combinations with dark shirts work especially well. My most common fall/spring outfit comprises a dark brown jacket (tweed, flecked, herringbone, subtle multicolored overstripe), a navy shirt (Oxford, usually red windowpane), a lighter brown tie, a dark/mid-value pocket square, and dark slacks. As odd as that may seem to a menswear traditionalist, I believe that it works exceptionally well for interacting with people in my setting (that being suburban New England).
Could be my warped zoomer mind, but I associate tweed a bit more with Rick Deckard, Stanley White, and early 20th century workmen than with Indiana Jones, James Bond, and academics.
I don't know if I'd share your preference for darker shirts, I tend to limit myself to grey patterns or light tones like pink or blue in my shirts, but the similar tone assertion holds some truth, though I tend to have some variation in shade, mostly in greys since I'm a weird bloke who has a ton of grey suits that are often used to donate their trousers for various combinations with my grey tweed coats which I feel is very similar in composition to your described autumnal outfit.
Though I recently started combining things with my new Norfolk tweed jacket which is *way* more informal than my usual tweed fare and at the same time always verging on late Victoriana cosplay, but hey, a lot of the things I wear tend to have connections to late Victorian or Edwardian styles anyway.😅
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Thank you for the video. I am in North Texas and enjoy wearing tweed during the Fall, Winter and Spring months. I am looking for a tweed jacket with color and pattern similar to that at 6:42 if anyone knows of a source. Thanks!
I would say that if you want to wear multiple items of tweed, you would be better off going for a tweed suit, so everything matches.
I like a tweed jacket or cap. They are difficult to find in my area. Not common.
Spain is not particulary fond on tweed for some reasons, namely temperatures arent suitable for it and more importantly, merina wool. I wear uniform on my daily basis and this is made of wool, as a landmark of the country. I love wool jackets which I found really versatile and against my history, tradition and economics factors from the past I truly appreciate tweed jackets of whom I proudly own two.
Should you wear a silk tie or a Shantung/Grenadine tie with Tweed? I would think the latter as there is more texture. Also possibly a linen pocket square as opposed to a silk pocket square.
Thanks for all your videos.
Grenadine will work with tweed.
I love tweed. Bought my first one in Scotland during my trip. The problem is that I was born and live in Brazil. If you dress sharp and walk on the street you run the risk of being robbed. The government is run by ex-convicts and drug lords. Public security is a big issue. And also since quality items are much more expensive here, we rarely see a well dressed person outside. When we do though, the clothes are not of good quality or fit. It's a shame. Cheap Chinese shirts and jeans are the dressing rule. I dress up mostly to see my parents, which is the best reason there could be.
Hi new to the channel. I live in Wyoming, where temperatures often dip below -20 C. what would you recommend for this type of climate.
2 options really:
1. Go with performance fabrics and accesorise with tweed items (gloves, scarf, hat)
2. Go for layers - tweed jacket or overcoat to maintain that all essential bodyheat.
Tweed is king or queen
Hi Ash, do you have any recommendations for where to go to buy a reasonably priced, but still high quality, tweed jacket please? I am based in London if that helps. Thank you
Well, outside the wonderfully cheap world of ebay, you could visit Portobello Road Market. I was there 2 weekends ago and there were some excellent tweed options on several stalls. But if you seek brand new, my preferred route of late has been Brook Taverner. Good prices for great products. Good luck sir.
I wear tweed boxers to bring something more to the party.
I would like to get Tweed jacket so could you please refer me the name of the store to order the Tweed jacket on the line.
Thanks
Brook Taverner
Tweed has more history in England than in North America, therefore it is less understood over here. For the modern man, I think the key to wearing tweed and not looking like you are in a costume or just vintage (Some like a vintage look and that is fine too.), is to go with solid to small pattern tweed. What Ash is wearing is closer to the vintage look due to the large pattern, if one goes to a more subtle pattern it fits a more modern look. I personally love tweed. historically you wore your tweed jacket until your elbows got holes in them and then you added the patches, but you an start with elbow patches from the get-go if you so wish.
If i wear a tweed jacket where i live i get robbed within minutes.
Sometimes it is the environment what determines what you wear and not that you are lazy.
Regards from Sweden.
Nice hunty photos. Too bad not more. Indy's jacket was false belt back, too!
Sorry, tweed and jeans does NOT work for me at all. Gotta draw the line because chinos won't always look as good as corduroy, either, etc.
T-shirts are underwear. At least get a mock-turtleneck.
You need some sort of collar to make the jacket collar more comfy, if not completely odd-looking.
Not all tweed is super itchy, at least, but the thicker ones will be.
I haven't tested how long the tweed-inlay shoes last compared to leather ones yet.
It’s unfortunate that tweed has the reputation of being the sign of a fuddy-duddy, but I suspect that this is because there’s a strong strain of anti-intellectualism and resentment of privilege in modern culture.
While elevating disgusting atheleisure wear and tasteless accessories (a.k.a. "bling") into the norm.
Though I have not cared for fashion since I was 16 (there's a story here but it's irrelevant here😉) and as a former academic and teacher (the "former" still applies) I personally actually enjoy being regarded as an intellectual and the target of anti-intellectual resentment because it just solidifies and confirms that you managed to dress better than the fashion absorbed imbeciles.
I don't know if you could regard this as classism, after all I'm just a professional craftsmen these days, but if so, so what? We *should* differentiate us from the fashion guided idiots I feel, just not throwing it into their faces by word, that would be toxic arrogance but a bit of personal vanity is fine and in order I feel.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
All you need is a man in tweed, as I say to my wife.
Who agrees. Possibly.
😊
Sorry, Ash, your outfit today is not one of your best efforts